DRAFTING A BASIC

BODY BLOCK PATTERN

(Step by step instructions)

By Navida Sayed

©Lajna UK

1
Calculating & Recording Your Measurements Step 2
Use your recorded measurements and then calculate using the formulae below this will
give the exact measurements required to draft your pattern. Record all measurements in
inches. REFER TO THE FINAL MEASUREMENT COLUMN FOR DRAFTING THE PATTERN
BODY PART Inches CALCULATE Final
Using the formula below
Please note not every measurement needs
to be divided or calculated
Shoulder Shoulder measurement ÷ 2 =
Chest Chest measurement ÷ 4 =
Waist Waist measurement ÷ 4 =
Hips Hips measurement ÷ 4 =
Bottom of shirt width Hips measurement ÷ 4 +1=
Shirt length
Shoulder to Waist
Shoulder to Hip
Full sleeve
Half sleeve
¾ sleeve
Bicep
Cuff
Armhole Shoulder ÷ by 2 + chest ÷ 4= ÷ 2=
Armhole calculation instructions
Add your shoulder measurement divided by two to your chest measurement divided by four.
Once you add both measurements you then divide the total by two that should determine your
armhole.

Shoulder measurement ÷ by 2
+ Chest measurement ÷ 4 = Total
Total ÷ 2= armhole measurement

Example
14÷ 2= 7
+38 ÷ 4 = 9.5= 16.5

16.5 ÷ 2= 8.25 (armhole=8.25)

2
Step 1
Take your pattern paper which should be long enough for the length of
your top / dress. e.g. if the length of the dress is 40” the paper should be
around 43” the width should be a minimum of 30” before folding.

Length

Width of paper before folding in half

STEP 2

Fold the paper in half as shown in the diagram

3
STEP 3
Write fold on the folded side of the paper as a reminder. Now using a
long ruler draw a straight line from the folded sided towards the
open side of the paper. Label the point on the folded side as A and the
opposite side as B. The straight line from A – B will be used as a
guiding line throughout the pattern drafting stage to ensure the
pattern is aligned.

A B
FOLD

4
STEP 4
1. From point A exactly on the folding line and in the direction of
B measure3” across with your ruler, mark and label as point C.
2. From point C Measure 6” down mark and label as point D.
3. From point A measure 6” down, mark and label as point E.
4. Using a ruler draw a line joining C-D & point D-E which should
also measure 3” A-C-D-E should look like a rectangle on your
pattern as shown in the diagram.

A C B

E D
FOLD

5
STEP 5
1. From Point A towards the direction of B use your shoulder
final measurement, measure, mark and label as point F.
2. From point F exactly Measure ½ “ down, mark and label as
point G.
3. Using a ruler draw a line joining point C to point G. This is the
shoulder slope line.

A C F B

G
E D
FOLD

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STEP 6
1. Using your final armhole measurement, measure downwards
from point G in a straight-line, mark and label as point H.
2. Using a ruler draw a straight line from point G – H.

A C F B

G
E D

H
FOLD

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STEP 7
1. To ensure the pattern is to scale. With a ruler measure the
distance from point F-H
2. From point A on the fold, measure the same distance
downwards exactly the same distance from F-H label as point I.
3. From point I on the fold using your final chest measurement,
measure across towards H and label as J.
4. Using a ruler draw a straight line joining points I-J label as
chest/bust.

A C F B

G
E D

I Bust H J
FOLD

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STEP 8
1. From point A use shoulder to waist measurement, measure
downward in a straight line along the fold, Mark and label as
point K.
2. Using your final waist measurement from point K measure
across, mark and label as point L.
3. Draw a straight line joining point K-L. To check if K-L is to scale
make sure that from line AB to L is the same as A-K = shoulder
to waist measurement.
4. Label as waist.

A C F B

G
E D

I Bust H J

K Waist L

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STEP 9
1. From point A use shoulder to hip measurement. Mark and label
as point M.
2. From point M use your final hip measurement, measure across,
mark and label as point N.
3. To check M-N is to scale check that AB-N is the same as A-M
=shoulder to hips measurement.
4. Draw a line from point M to N and label as Hips.

A C F B

G
E D

I Bust H J

K Waist L

M Hips N

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STEP 10
1. From point A measure downwards using shirt length
measurement, Mark and label as point O.
2. From point O using the final shirt bottom width measure
across, mark and label as point P.
3. To check O-P is to scale, ensure AB-P is the same as A-O = shirt
length.
4. Draw a dotted line joining O-P.

A C F B

G
E D

I Bust H J

K Waist L

M Hips N

O P

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 STEP 11 (focus on point G-H for this step)
1. From point H across to point I measure ¾ “ mark and label as
point Q.
2. From point Q at 90° measure 1” at 45° measure 1” mark and
label as point R, draw a diagonal line joining point Q to R.
3. From point H at 90° measure 1” at 45° mark and label as point
S draw a line from point H to S.

A C F B

E D

R
S

J
I Q H

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 STEP 12 (focus on point G-H for this step)
1. Measure half way down from G-H and draw a dotted line 0.5”
on both sides as shown in the diagram.

A C F B

E D

R
S

J
I Q H

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 STEP 13 (focus on point G-H for this step)
1. Using a French curve or join points G, R-J draw a curve. Ensure
the curve does not cross the dotted line half way down G-F.
This is the inner arm at the front of the pattern.
2. Using a French curve join points G, S-J draw a curve. This is the
armhole line at the back of the pattern.
THIS DIAGRAM IS NOT TO SCALE ENSURE YOUR CURVE IS TO
SCALE

A C F

E D

R
S
I Bust
J
Q H

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 STEP 14 (focus on point A,C,D,E for this step)

1. Measure 2.5” down from point A-E mark and label as point T.
2. Measure 2.5” down from point C-D mark and label as point U.
3. Using a French curve ruler, join point’s C -T and draw a curve.
This is the back neckline.
4. Using a French curve ruler, join points C, U-E and draw a curve.
This is the back neckline.

A C

T J

E D

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 STEP 15

1. Measure 3” below the waistline K-L and draw another line

using your hip measurement. Label this as V-W. This is to
prevent the shirt feeling tight at the waist to hip.
2. Using a ruler draw a dotted line joining points J, L, N, P
3. Measure 1” for seam allowance from J, L, N-P and from O- P.
4. Cut along the seam allowance and your pattern is your basic
body block pattern is complete.

A C F B

T U G A-B = Straight line across paper as

guide
R
E A-C = neck width
D C-D = neck depth
D-E = neck width
S F-G = ½ INCH
Q C-G = shoulder slope
G-H= Armhole depth
I Bust J I-J= Bust measurement
H K-L= Waist Measurement
M-N=Hips measurement
O-P= Bottom of shirt width
J-Q= ¾ inch
K Waist L Q-R= 1 inch from 90°
H-S= 1 inch from 90°
V W G-R-J= Front armhole
G-S-J=Back armhole
T-U= back neckline
M N V-W= Upper hip line (optional)
Hips
Dotted line= Fitting line
Outer line= 1 inch seam allowance

O P

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