A

Gorilla
called

 
Yuna
  © 2014 Laura Pavy
 
   © 2014 Laura Pavy
 
Yuna the Gorilla Gauge:
Gauge is not important for this project
however; there should not be any ‘holes’ in
your crochet fabric.

Finished measurement: 10”/24cm.

Beads
2x 3mm clear beads.

Eyes
2x 30mm/1.2” safety eyes

1x pair of false eyelashes (available in

the beauty department of your local drug-
store).

Other
Small scissors for cutting yarn and thread
You will need: Embroidery needle
Hook Darning needle
3.5mm or hook size appropriate for your yarn 250gms/9oz of polyfill for stuffing
selection. Small amount of colored felt for eyelids
(Template can be found on page 7).
Yarn  
Main color: 100gms/283m/309yds of DK/light
worsted/8ply acrylic yarn.
Face color: 30gms/85m/93yds DK/light
worsted/8ply acrylic yarn.

  © 2014 Laura Pavy

 
Copyright Notice
This pattern, its illustrations and images are copyright © 2014 Laura Pavy- ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
It’s NOT okay to distribute/share this document in whole or in part (for free, selling, putting
on your blog, website etc).
You CAN SELL items that you have made! Links back to my stores are very much appreciated!

www.merakicraft.com

www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/Meraki-craft-inc

www.ravelry.com/designers/laura.pavy

www.etsy.com/au/shop/MerakiCraftInc

www.craftsy.com/user/904845/pattern-store

Pattern support is available here:

www.facebook.com/thecrochetcase

www.facebook.com/merakicraftinc

Happy Crochet!

  © 2014 Laura Pavy

 
Abbreviations
Ch: Chain – yarn over, pull up a loop.

Dec: Decrease – insert hook into front loop of next 2 stitches, yarn over, pull up a loop,
yarn over, pull through 2 loops. Alternatively, (sc2tog) insert hook into next stitch,
pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 3
loops.

Inc: Increase – 2 sc into same stitch

Sc: Single crochet – insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over pull up a loop, yarn over,
pull through 2 loops.

Revsc: Reverse single crochet (aka crab stitch) – insert your hook to the stitch immediately to
the RIGHT of your hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on
hook.

[] Work instructions within brackets as many times as directed.

() Additional information and stitch counts for each round.

* Repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed

  © 2014 Laura Pavy

 
 6

Frequently Asked Questions

Pattern support is always available on the
Q: Will Yuna stand alone? Facebook page. Just send me a message.

A: She should! Yuna was designed to stand- Q: That hook is too small for my yarn! Can I
alone. To help you achieve this, fill body and use a different hook size?
upper limbs firmly. Fill lower extremities
LIGHTLY. A: Of course! If your tension is particularly
tight, or you are using a heavier weight yarn,
Q: Why don’t you specify a brand of yarn? a larger hook size may be needed. Use what you
feel is appropriate to achieve the best
A: There are several reasons. Firstly because results for YOU. Be aware that heavier weight
amigurumi does not need a specific brand of yarn will also require larger eyes and scaled
yarn to achieve a good result; secondly, this eyelids to achieve that big-eyed cuteness!
project has not been sponsored by a yarn
company, The final reason is this: all Q: My stuffing is showing through the crochet
crafters are artisans; you are creatively free fabric! How can I prevent that from happening?
to choose your favorite brand, fiber content
and weight of yarn to achieve YOUR desired A: To prevent the polyfill from showing
effect. I would love to see your projects! through your work, use a slightly smaller hook
than is necessary for the yarn you have
I encourage you to share images of your selected. Also, do NOT overstuff your
finished projects on Ravelry and my Facebook amigurumi pieces. For best results, fill
page. www.facebook.com/thecrochetcase FIRMLY, but not so much that you overstretch
www.facebook.com/MerakiCraftInc the crochet fabric.

  © 2014 Laura Pavy

 
 7

Felt Template Instructions

Important!
Eye lids – cut 2.

Most of this project is worked in a continuous

spiral without joining at the end of each
round. To mark the end of each round, use a
piece of contrasting colored yarn or a stitch
marker. If you leave your yarn marker in, move
your tail forward and back for each subsequent
row, take care not to crochet through the
yarn. It can be easily removed when your item
is complete by simply pulling it out.
EYELIDS
Cut 2 felt eyelids. Using 2 strands of black
embroidery thread and whip-stitch, sew the To make filling your amigurumi easier, stuff
eyelashes onto each inner curve of the felt as you go. Start stuffing with polyfill when
crescents, being careful to stitch evenly your item is a few inches in length.
between each eyelash as you go. Set aside for
assembly later.

  © 2014 Laura Pavy

 
 8

FACE
1. Staring with FACE COLOR and a magic 6. ch1, revsc over top of both curves,
ring, sc 5 into the ring, ch1, turn. Do turn, now working along the bottom of
not pull ring tightly closed, you will the ‘eyes’, sc into each st across.
need room for the eyes to go through Refer to Figure 2 (50 revsc, 21 sc).
(5).

2. Inc into each st around, ch 1, turn

(10).

3. [Inc, sc into next st] 5 times, ch 1,  

turn (15).
 
4. [inc, sc into next 2 st’s] 5 times, ch F ig u re 1 : F a ce s e gm e nt . M ak e 2 .
1, turn (20).

5. [inc, sc into next 3 st’s] 5 times.

(25) Fasten off.

Repeat 1-5 for second half of face, do NOT

fasten off at the completion of row 5, Refer
to Figure 1.

F ig u re 2 : J o in in g f ac e s eg m en t s w it h R EV S C a nd S C

  © 2014 Laura Pavy

 
 9

HEAD 6. *sc into next 10 st’s, [inc into next st,

sc into next 4 st’s] 3 times, repeat from
Now, the head is worked from the chin up, * once more (56).
working in a continuous spiral. Do not fill
until instructed. 7. sc into each st around(56).

1. With FACE COLOR , ch 12, sc into second 8-11. Sc into each stitch around (56), CHANGE
chain from your hook and in each of the TO MAIN COLOR in last st of row 9.
next 9 ch, 3sc into last ch. Now working
12. sc into next 20 st’s, dec, sc into next
on the opposite side of the chain, sc
26 st’s, dec, sc into last 6 st’s (54).
into next 10 ch, 3sc into skipped ch at
beginning of round (26).
13. sc into each st around (54).
2. [Sc into next 10 st’s, inc into each of
14. *sc into next 13 st’s, dec, [sc into next
the next 3 st’s] twice (32).
4 st’s, dec] twice, repeat from * once
more (48).
3. *sc into next 10 st’s, [inc into next st,
sc into next st] 3 times, repeat from *
15-19.Sc into each st around (48).
once more (38).
Pause to add eyes, then continue with the head
4. *sc into next 10 st’s, [inc into next st,
on the following page.
sc into next 2 st’s] 3 times, repeat from
* once more (44).

5. *sc into next 10 st’s, [inc into next st,

sc into next 3 st’s] 3 times, repeat from
* once more (50).

  © 2014 Laura Pavy

 
 10

EYES HEAD (CONT.)

Add the face and eyes on the opposite side of 20. sc into next 22 st’s, [inc, sc into next
the color changes; line up the bottom of the st] 10 times,sc into next 6 st’s (58).
face section and the last row of FACE COLOR ,
insert eyes through magic rings (of the face 21-24.Sc into each st around (58).
section), and then between rows 12 and 14 and
approximately 17 st’s apart. 25. sc into next 3 st’s, [dec, sc into next 6
st’s] twice, dec, sc into next st, dec,
Place your eyelids over each eye and ‘tuck in’ [dec, sc into next 6 st’s] 3 times, dec,
edges between the front of the safety eye and sc into next st, dec, dec, sc into next 3
the washer using the blunt end of a strong st’s](48)
needle (be careful! I don’t want you to hurt
your fingers!). 26. [dec, sc into next 6 st’s] 6 times (42).

If necessary, turn the entire eye and eyelids 27. [dec, sc into next 5 st’s] 6 times (36).
so that the eyelids are almost vertical.
28. sc into each st around (36).
Stich invisibly into place with color matched
sewing thread. Sew a small clear bead onto the 29. [dec, sc into next 4 st’s] 6 times (30)
outer corner of each eyelid where the eyelid
30. sc into each st around (30).
meets the eye.
31. [dec, sc into next 3 st’s] 6 times (24).

  © 2014 Laura Pavy

 
 11

HEAD (CONT.) eyebrow. Sculpt a few stiches along the top of

the same round, to just above the center of
32. sc into next 10 st’s, blsc into next 12 each eye, always returning the needle to the
st’s, sc into last 2 st’s (24) center of the face section. When you are happy
with the shape of the brow, fasten off and
Note: BLSC are the foundation for the hair. weave in the ends.

33. [dec, sc into next 2 st’s] twice, [dec,

blsc into next 2 st’s] 3 times, dec, sc
into last 2 st’s (18).
EARS

34. [dec, blsc into next st] 6 times (12). Make 2.

35. [dec] 6 times (6). Fasten off, leaving an Again working in a continuous spiral, DO NOT
8” yarn tail for closing the top of the fill ears.
head. To close hole, whip stitch around
every open st, pull tight as you go. 1. starting with your MAIN COLOR and a
magic ring, 6 sc into ring (6).

Needle sculpt the ‘brow’ (formed by the 2. inc into each st around (12)
additional 10 increases in round 25) by
anchoring a length of MAIN COLOR yarn just 3. [inc, sc into next st] 6 times (18)
above the center of the face section, insert
the needle upwards and under 8 or 9 rounds,
4. [inc into next st, sc into next 2 st’s] 6
push needle up through a center stitch and
pull the yarn taut. Anchor the yarn by times (24).
wrapping it around the closest stitch. Return
needle and yarn to the first anchor and pull 5-7 sc into each st around (24).
tight. This drags the crochet fabric downwards
and makes it ‘scrunch’ a little to form an 8. [dec, sc into next 2 st’s] 6 times (18)

  © 2014 Laura Pavy

 
 12

EARS (CONT.) 1. Using MAIN COLOR , start with a magic

ring, 6sc into ring (6).
9. [dec, sc into next st] 6 times
(12).fasten off, leaving an 8 inch yarn 2. Inc into each st around (12).
tail for sewing to head – DO NOT stuff.
3. [inc, sc into next st] 6 times (18)
Fold ear lengthways so that your row/stitch
markers are folded to the edge of each ear. 4. sc into next 4 st’s, [inc into next 2
Ears are placed so the ear is centered over st’s, sc into next st] 3 times, inc into
the color change on chin and head and slightly next 2 st’s, sc into last 3 sts (26).
towards the back. Use whip stitch to secure
ears to head.
5. sc into next 5 st’s, [inc into next 2
st’s, sc into next 3 st’s] 3 times, inc
into next 2 st’s, sc into last 4 st’s
(34).
BODY
Working in continuous spiral rounds from the 6. sc into next 6 st’s, [inc into next 2
neck down. st’s, sc into next 5 st’s] 3 times, inc
into next 2 st’s, sc into last 5 st’s
NOTE : Before moving on to the legs, Place a (42)
lockable marker at the center front of your
work (where your yarn marker has been). This 7. sc into next 7 st’s, [inc into next 2
indicates the front of the body. st’s, sc into next 7 st’s] 3 times, inc
into next 2 st’s, sc into last 6 st’s
You will notice that the front (the line your
stitch marker will be moving along) will curve (50) NOTE : Don’t forget to place a
inwards. This is deliberate. This forms the lockable marker to indicate the front of
‘hump’ of the back/neck area. the body.

  © 2014 Laura Pavy

 
 13

BODY (CONT.) LIMBS

8. sc into next 8 st’s, [inc into next 2 Each limb is made individually, each utilizing
st’s, sc into next 9 st’s] 3 times, inc 18 skipped stitches from the previous section.
into next 2 st’s, sc into last 7 st’s Start each limb by attaching your MAIN COLOR
(58) with a slipstitch into the skipped stitch
closest to the belly section.
9. sc into next 9 st’s, [inc into next 2
st’s, sc into next 11 st’s] 3 times, inc Pay attention! The front and back limbs are
into next 2 st’s, sc into last 8 st’s different! Your lockable marker indicates the
(66) front of your gorilla. The first and fourth
limbs are the arms at the FRONT of the body,
10. sc into next 10 st’s [inc into next 2 the second and third are the back legs.
sts, sc into next 13 st’s] 3 times, inc
into next 2 sts, sc 10 (74) There will be 4 small holes near the belly
that will need closing with a few whip-
11. [inc, sc into next 4 st’s] 3 times, sc stitches. Leave at least one yarn tail 8
into next 48 st’s, [inc, sc into next inches in length at the beginning of any limb
4st’s] twice, inc into last (80). to complete this step. Do NOT stuff limbs
until all four are made.
12-16.sc into each st around (80).
The increases and decreases in the limb design
17. (Separating for limbs) sc into next 5 create natural shaping. To maintain this
st’s, [skip 18 st’s, sc into next st] 3 shaping, fill the body and top of the limbs
times, skip last 17 st’s and first sc at quite firmly, but the lower portion of limbs
the beginning of this round, slst into should be filled LIGHTLY . Some manipulation
next st, (8), fasten off, to close hole; of stuffing (and a little needle sculpting)
whip-stitch around each sc in this round, will be necessary to achieve the desired bend
pulling each stitch firmly as you go. in the limbs.

  © 2014 Laura Pavy

 
 14

FIRST AND FOURTH LIMBS (FRONT- ARMS) 9. sc into each st around (18)

1. Attach yarn with slst in first skipped st 10. [inc, sc into next 5 st’s] 3 times (21)
of previous section, sc into same st, sc
into next 17 st’s (18). 11. [inc, sc into next 6 st’s] 3 times (24)

2. [inc into next st, sc into next 5 st’s] 3 12. [inc, sc into next 7 st’s] 3 times (27)
times (21).
13. [inc, sc into next 8 st’s] 3 times (30)
3. [inc into next st, sc into next 6 st’s] 3
times (24). 14-15. sc into each st around (30)

4. [inc, sc into next 7 st’s] 3 times (27) 16. inc, sc into next 9 st’s] 3 times (33)

5. Sc into next 12 st’s, dec, sc into next 17-18. sc into each st around (33)
11 st’s, dec (25).
19. [inc, sc into next 10 st’s] 3 times (36)
6. Sc into next 11 st’s, dec, sc into next
10 st’s, dec (23). 20-21. sc into each st around (36), fasten
off, leaving an 8” tail for sewing soles
7. Sc into next 10 st’s, dec, sc into next 9 on later.
st’s, dec (21)
Work 2nd and 3rd limbs (back legs) then repeat
8. [Sc into next 5 sts, dec] 3 times (18) all rounds for 4th limb (front – arm).

  © 2014 Laura Pavy

 
 15

SECOND AND THIRD LIMBS (BACK – LEGS) 8. [inc into next st, sc into next 8 st’s]
3 times(30).
Second and third limbs are Yuna’s back legs.
Once you have completed the second leg, Repeat 9. Sc into each st around (30).
this section for the third leg.
10. [inc into next st, sc into next 9 st’s]
1. Attach yarn with slst in first skipped st 3 times (33).
of previous section, sc into same st, sc
into next 17 st’s (18). 11. Sc into each st around (33).

2. [inc into next st, sc into next 5 st’s] 3 12. [inc into next st, sc into next 10 st’s]
times (21). 3 times (36),

3. Sc into each st around (21) 13-15.Sc into each st around (36) fasten off,
leaving an 8” yarn tail for sewing.
4. [inc into next st, sc into next 6 st’s] 3
times (24). To create the third limb (back leg) Repeat
round 1-15 on the following set of 18 skipped
5. Sc into each st around (24) stitches from the body section ONCE.
To create the fourth limb (arm); repeat rounds
6. [inc, sc into next 7 st’s] 3 times (27) 1-21 of the arm instructions (on page 14) on the
following set of 18 skipped stitches from the body
7. sc into each st around (27) section.
After all four legs are made, its time to
stuff upper legs firmly and lower legs
lightly– this helps Yuna to stand alone, then
create the soles of the feet.

  © 2014 Laura Pavy

 
 16

SOLES FINISHING THE LIMBS

Make 4.

1. Starting with MAIN COLOR and a magic Needle-sculpt knees by anchoring a length of
ring, 6sc into ring (6). MAIN COLOR yarn at the thinnest section of
each limb (at the center back) insert the
2. inc into each st around (12). needle horizontally. Push needle through to
the front of the leg and pull the yarn taut.
3. [inc, sc into next st] 6 times (18). Anchor the yarn by wrapping it around the
closest stitch. Return needle and yarn to
4. [inc, sc into next 2 st’s] 6 times (24). first anchor and pull tight. This drags the
crochet fabric inwards and forms an indent.
5. [inc, sc into next 3 st’s] 6 times (30).
Fasten off, weave in ends.
6. [inc, sc into next 4 st’s] 6 times (36).

Fasten off and weave in ends. Using the yarn

tail from one leg, sew soles to legs with
whipstitch, adding a little more stuffing if
necessary before the soles are closed. Repeat
this step on all limbs.

  © 2014 Laura Pavy

 
 17

Assembly
There is not much assembly left now. All you HAIR
need to do is attach the head to the body,
embroider the nose and add hair! Place the With MAIN COLOR , cut 30 x 7” pieces of yarn,
back ‘hump’ of the body on the opposite side working with 2 strands at a time, insert hook
of - and in line with - the eyes. Using MAIN into exposed front loops at the top of the
COLOR, stitch the head to the ‘hump’, head (from bottom towards top), yarn over,
catching a few stitches on the back of the pull up a loop, thread all tails through the
head and the hump as you go. Keep stitching loops and pull tight.
until you are satisfied that the head is well
secured.

NOSE
When you have attached all of your ‘hair’, use
Using 2 strands of MAIN COLOR yarn, embroider a pet brush to comb and ‘fluff’ out the hair.
a ‘m’ shape between the eyes with the center Trim fibers to shape, with hair slightly
stroke in line with the center of the face and shorter on the left hand side (facing you).
the lower portion of the ‘m’ just touching the
bottom of the face section. Now using one
strand of yarn, whip stitch several times OVER
your ‘m’ shape to make the line heavier. Congratulations on your new arrival!
Fasten off and weave in your ends.

  © 2014 Laura Pavy

 
  
 

 
© 2014 Laura Pavy

Did you know?

Gorillas live in the rainforests and swamps of central
Africa and can live for up to 40 years in the wild.

Gorillas build ‘nests’ from branches, leaves and twigs on

the forest floor to sleep in. These nests can be as large as
5ft/1.5m in diameter!