792 Cosmetics Additives

VAN DYK: CERAPHYL and CERASYNT:

CERAPHYL 28:
CTFA Name: Cetyl Lactate
CAS Number: 35274-05-6
Physical Form: White solid
Odor: Faint, characteristic
Specifications:
Acid Value ( @ 25C): 2.0 maximum
Saponification Number: 174-189
Specific Gravity (27C): 0.893-0.905
Applications:
CERAPHYL 28 is one of a series of lactate esters designed for
use in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulas. It is a lubricant
and an emollient, imparting sheen and silkiness to skin and
hair. CERAPHYL 28 is non-greasy, non-oily, non-drying, and has
a Required HLB of 13-15. A solid at room temperature, it liq-
uifies readily on the skin. CERAPHYL 28 is also useful as tack-
reducer in deodorant sticks and as a solvent for dyes in lipstick
formulas.
CERAPHYL 31:
CTFA Name: Lauryl Lactate
CAS Number: 6283-92-7
Physical Form: Light yellow liquid
Odor: Faint, Characteristic
Specifications:
Acid Value ( @ 25C): 2.0 maximum
Saponification Number: 210-225
Specific Gravity ( @ 25C): 0.910-0.922
Refractive Index ( @ 2512): 1.441 7-1.4456
Applications:
CERAPHYL 31 is a highly effective emollient and skin
lubricant. It is especially recommended as an anti-tack agent
in antiperspirant creams and lotions, and other preparations
requiring improved slip. CERAPHYL 31 has a Required HLB of 10,
and is not recommended for use in formulas with high pH.
CERAPHYL 41:
Chemical Name: Linear Alcohol Lactate
CTFA Name: C12-Cl5 Alcohols Lactate
Physical Form: White to straw-colored liquid
Specifications:
Acid Value: 2.0 Maximum
Saponiication Number: 195-210
Specific Gravity (25C): 0.900-0.920
Refractive Index: 1.4430-1.4450
Applications:
CERAPHYL 41 is an excellent choice for alcoholic and hydro-
alcoholic skin preparations when a non-greasy emolliency after-
feel is desired.
CERAPHYL 41 reduces the tacky, greasy feel of formulations
which contain high levels of petrolatum or mineral oil. It is
also useful as a de-tackifier in antipersiprants.
CERAPHYL 41 imparts high sheen in hair preparations, and
is an excellent plasticizer for hair spray films.
 VanDyk 793

VAN DYX: CERAPHYL and CERASYNT(C0ntinued):

CERAPHYL 45:
Chemical Name: bis (2-ethylhexyl) malate
CTFA Name: Dioctyl Malate
CAS Number: 56235-92-8
Physical Form: Clear Liquid, Colorless to Pale Yellow
Odor: Characteristically Mild
Molecular Formula: C20H3805
Molecular Weight: 358.52
Specifications:
Acid Value: 5.0 Max
Saponification Number: 310 min.
Iodine Number: 1.0 Max.
Specific Gravity (25C): 0.960-0.970
Refractive Index: 1.4480-1.4500
Applications:
CERAPHYL 45 is an emollient that exhibits an unusual silky
feel. It is non-sensitizing and non-comedogenic, so it is
ideal for hypoallergenic products of all types.
Because CERAPHYL 45 is a hydroxydiester, it shows broad
spectrum solubility. It is an excellent fragrance coupler,
and it solubilizes Benzophenone-3 as well as other difficult-
to-solubilize materials.
Its unusual chemical structure promotes clear hydro-alcoholic
gels and lotions which can accomodate more water, thus reducing
the cost of the formula.
CERAPHYL 45 is easy to emulsify, and has a Required HLB of
12. It will reduce the greasiness of mineral oil and petrolatum
and the tackiness of carbomer formulas. Used in antiperspirants,
it reduces the stickiness of aluminum salts. In hair products,
CERAPHYL 45 imparts conditioning and wet-comb benefits.

CERAPHYL 50:
CTFA Name: Myristyl Lactate
CAS Number: 1323-03-1
Physical Form: Water-white to pale-yellow liquid or soft
solid (depending on temperature)
Specifications:
Acid Value (25C): 2.0 maximum
Saponification Number: 166-1 81
Specific Gravity (25C): 0.892-0.904
Applications:
CERAPHYL 50 is particularly recommended for use in all
types of alcoholic preparations, such as shaving lotions and
body rubs, because of the soft, silky, water-resistant film it
leaves on the skin. It imparts lubricity, sheen, and an enhanced
creamy texture to lipsticks. In hair products, it adds manage-
ability and feel to the hair. Required HLB = 12. Not stable at
high pH.
794 Cosmetics Additives

VAN DYK: CERAPHYL and CERASYNT(C0ntinued):

CERAPHYL 50s:
CTFA Name: Myristyl Lactate
CAS Number: 1323-03-1
Physical Form: Water-white to pale-yellow liquid or soft
solid (depending on temperature)
Specifications:
Acid Value (25C): 2.0 maximum
Saponification Number: 166-1 81
Specific Gravity (25C): 0.890-0.910
Applications:
CERAPHYL 50s exhibits excellent skin feel when used in stick
makeup formulations. An added benefit is the noticeable improve-
ment it imparts to the consistency and creaminess of the stick
products. When used in alcoholic preparations, it ameliorates
the harsh drying and defatting effects of the alcohol while
leaving a lubricious feel on the skin.
Required HLB = 12. Not stable at high pH.

CERAPHYL 55:
CTFA Name: Tridecyl Neopentanoate
CAS Number: 106436-39-9
Physical Form: Clear, light yellow liquid
Odor: Characteristically mild
Molecular Formula: C18H3602
Molecular Weight: 284
Specifications:
Acid Value: 2.0 Max.
Saponification Number: 190 Min.
Specific Gravity (25C): 0.850-0.860
Refractive Index: 1.4345-1.4365
Applications:
CERAPHYL 55 is a non-comedogenic branched ester with a
Required HLB of 8. It enhances the application properties
of creams & lotions by imparting non-oily, non-occlusive
lubricity and elegant skin feel. In pigmented products,
CERAPHYL 55 improves gloss and spreading characteristics.
 Van Dyk 795

VAN DYK: CERAPHYL and CERASYNT(C0ntinued):

CERAPHYL 60:
U.S. Patent No. 3,766,267
Chemical Name: Gluconamidopropyl Dimethyl-2-hydroxyethyl
Ammonium Chloride
CTFA Name: Quaternium-22
Physical Form: Clear Liquid
Specifications:
Color: Yellow to light amber
% Ionic Chloride: 5.8-6.2
% Solids: 58-62
% Water: 38-42
pH as is: 4.0-5.0
Specific Gravity @ 25C: 1.170-1 .210
Applications:
This cationic, water-soluble Emollient Moisturizer shows
pronounced substantivity to skin and hair. It leaves a rich
emollient skin-feel when applied in the form of hydro-alcoholic
solutions such as Fresheners, Colognes, or After Shaves, and
has pronounced humectant properties which can be demonstrated
to continue even on absorbed 2ERAPHYL 60 films which remain
after rinse-off of products containing it.
Formulation of various hair preparations such as shampoos,
wave sets and cold waves with CERAPHYL 60 have shown consider-
able improvement of performance. When added to typical anionic
shampoo or bubble bath formulations, CERAPHYL 60 is compatible
and does not adversely affect foaming. In some cases, foam
was actually improved 10-15% (as measured by the Ross-Miles
test). Addition to cold waves improves hair texture.

CERAPHYL 65:
U.S. Patent #4,012,098
Chemical Name: Mink-Amidopropyl Dimethyl
2-Hydroxyethyl Ammonium Chloride
CTFA Name: Quaternium-26
CAS Number: 68953-64-0
Specifications:
Acid Value: 20.0 maximum
Alkali Number: 25.0 maximum
Solids: 53-65%
Ionic Chloride: 4.0-5.0%
Applications:
Hair products: Provides anti-tangle, anti-static, and
conditionng properties. Use in shampoos at 2-3%, conditioners
at 2-3%, setting lotions at 0.50-0.75%, and hair dressings
at 0.5-1.0%.
Emulsions: CERAPHYL 65 is a substantive, water-soluble
emollient. When neutralized (ie. with lactic acid) it is also
an efficient cationic emulsifier.
796 Cosmetics Additives

VAN DYK: CERAPHYL and CERASYNT(C0ntinued):

CERAPHYL 7 0 :
U.S. Patent #4,038,294
Chemical Name: Stearic Amidopropyl Dimethyl-Myristyl Acetate
Ammonium Chloride
CTFA Name: Quaternium-70 (and) Propylene Glycol
Physical Form: Soft Gel
Specifications:
Saponification Number: 45-60
Alkali Number: 5.0 Maximum
% Ionic Chloride: 2.6-3.4
Melting Point C (U.S.P. #2): 27-32
Total Solids: 48-.58
Applications:
As an after shampoo conditioner at 2.5-4.0% (put on-rinse
off type) and as a skin emollient at 0.5-2.0%. This compound
has anti-tangle, anti-static, emulsifying and emollient prop-
erties. When used in a creme rinse, it leaves the hair with
slight "body" and with a clean feel after rinsing.

CERAPHYL 8 5 :
U.S. Patent 4,342,706
CTFA Name: Stearamidopropyl Dimethyl Cetearyl Ammonium
Tosylate and Propylene Glycol
CAS Number: 87616-36-2 and 83554-37-4
Physical Form: Cream colored waxy solid
Specifications:
Acid Value: 12 Maximum
Saponification Number: 20 Maximum
Alkali Number: 5 Maximum
Melting Point: 44-48C
Applications:
CERAPHYL 85 is a unique quaternary conditioning agent which
has application in hair care as well as skin care products.
It is quite lipophilic while being noticeably substantive to
skin and hair protein. Unlike many quats, it has very low eye
irritation potential.
Product CERAPHYL 85 Benefit
Hair Conditioner Improved wet comb and manageability
Liquid Soap Substantivity; Emollient skin feel
Cationic Emulsions Emulsifier; Substantive emollient
Make-up Products Emolliency, smooth rub-in, afterfeel
 VanDyk 797

VAN DYK: CERAPHYL and CERASYNT(C0ntinued):

CERAPHYL 1 40 :
Chemical Name: Decyl Oleate
CTFA Name: Decyl Oleate
Physical Form: White to straw liquid
Specifications:
Acid Number: 5.0 Maximum
Saponification Number: 132-142
Specific Gravity @ 25C.: 0.855-0.865
Refractive Index @ 25C.: 1.4530-1.4555
Iodine Number: 57-60
Applications:
Emollient and co-solvent especially recommended for creams,
lotions, and other preparations requiring the improvement of
"slip". Useful in moisturizing preparations, bath oils, as a
lubricant; in liquid make-up for smoothness and application;
in pressed powder to hold moisture and impart creamy texture.
CERAPHYL 140A:
CTFA Name: Isodecyl Oleate
CAS Number: 59231-34-4
Description: White-to-straw colored liquid; characteristic-
ally mild odor
Specifications:
Acid Number: 5.0 maximum
Saponification Number: 130-1 45
Specific Gravity (25C): 0.858-0.864
Refractive Index (25'2): 1.4540-1.4560
Iodine Number: 50-65
Applications:
CERAPIIYL 140A is an emollient and co-solvent for various
cosmetic systems. It is particularly useful in liquid makeup
for imparting viscosity control and "return" characteristics
at low temperature.
CERAPHYL 230:
Chemical Name: Diisopropyl Adipate
CTFA Name: Diisopropyl Adipate
Physical Form: Water White Liquid
Specifications:
Acid Number: 2.0 Maximum
Saponification Number (2 Hrs.): 465-500
Specific Gravity @ 25C: 0.950-0.962
Refractive Index B 25C: 1.421 6-1 .4245
Applications:
Useful in aqueous alcohol systems as an emollient and coupling
agent with high solubility, such as in shave lotions and hair
tonics.
Useful in high oil content products to reduce the greasy feel
of mineral oil. Imparts spreadability to bath oils and hair pom-
ades. Useful in reducing the stringiness of petrolatum-based
products.
Useful in hair sprays as a plasticizer. In "Carbopol" clear
gel items it minimized "roll-up" in the presence of electro-
lytes.
798 Cosmetics Additives

VAN DYK: CERAPHYL and CERASYNT(C0ntinued):

CERAPHYL 368:
Chemical Name: 2-Ethyl Hexyl Palmitate
CTFA Name: Octyl Palmitate
Physical Form: Water white liquid
Specifications:
Acid Number: 3.0 Maximum
Saponification Number (1 Hr. ) : 146-1 56
Refractive Index @ 25C: 1.4445-1.4465
Specific Gravity @ 25C: 0.850-0.856
Applications:
The non-oily feel of this ester makes it most useful in
aerosol antiperspirants, bath oils, and liquid make-up products.
It also provides gloss in stick make-up products. It is also an
excellent binder for pressed powders.

CERAPHYL 3 7 5 :
CTFA Name: Isostearyl Neopentanoate
CAS Number: 58958-60-4
Physical Form: Clear, pale yellow liquid
Specifications:
Acid Value: 2.0 Maximum
Saponification Number: 144-1 61 (6 hours)
Specific Gravity (25C): 0.858-0.870
Refractive Index (25C): 1.4467-1.4497
Color (Gardner): 2 Maximum
Applications:
Binder for pressed powder makeups. Pigment dispersing agent,
especially in eye makeup products. Improves spreading and play-
time in highly pigmented products. Also for general emolliency
where a completely bland, completely synthetic material is
desired.

CERAPHYL 424:
CTFA Name: Myristyl Myristate
CAS Number: 3234-85-3
Physical Form: White to slightly yellow waxy solid, with a
bland characteristic odor
Specifications:
Acid Value: 3.0 maximum
Saponification Number: 120-130
Melting Point: 36-39C
Applications:
CERAPHYL 424 is particularly useful in creams and lotions,
and also many makeup items, because it melts at body temper-
ature. At low percentages in O/W lotions, it improves formula
viscosity and "richness".
CERAPHYL 424 has a Required HLB of 8-10.
 Van Dyk 799

VAN DYK: CERAPHYL and CERASYNT(C0ntinued):

CERAPHYL 494:
CTFA Name: Isocetyl Stearate
CAS Number: 25339-09-7
Physical Form: White to light yellow liquid
Odor: Bland, characteristic
Specifications:
Acid Value: 5.0 maximum
Saponification Number: 95-110
Specific Gravity (25C): 0.845-0.865
Refractive Index (25C): 1.446-1.456
Applications:
CERAPHYL 494 is a liquid branched-chain fatty ester with a
Required HLB of 8. It can be used as an all-purpose lubricant
in creams and lotions, where it will impart a dry, emollient
feel.

CERAPHYL 847:
CTFA Name: Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate
CAS Number: 90052-75-8
Description: Light-to-straw colored liquid; characteristically
mild odor. (A small amount of white solid may
form occasionally, in which case the product
should be heated slightly before use and stirred
to ensure homogeneity.)
Specifications:
Acid Number: 10.0 maximum
Saponification Number: 1 1 5-1 35
Specific Gravity (25C): 0.860-0.880
Refractive Index (25C): 1.447-1.467
Applications:
CERAPHYL 847 is an excellent pigment dispersant and binder.
It imparts a smooth creamy application and no taste to lipsticks,
and its low odor of toxicity makes it suitable for eye products
and other makeup formulas. In emulsions, CERAPHYL 847 imparts
long-lasting lubricity and a rich, cushioned feel to the skin.
CERAPHYL 847 has a Required HLB of 6.

CERAPHYL GA:
Chemical Name: Carboxylated Vegetable Tri-Glyceride
CTFA Name: Maleated Soybean Oil
CAS Registry Number: 68648-66-8
Physical Form: Amber yellow oily, slightly viscous liquid
with a mild characteristic odor.
Tentative Specifications:
Acid Number/T.H.F./@ 25C: 62-72
Acid Number/MEOH/@ 25C: 60-70
Saponification Index @ 25C: 1.4750-1.4850
Moisture, %: t0.1%
Iodine Value: 87-1 07
800 Cosmetics Additives

VAN DYK: CERAPHYL and CERASYNT(C0ntinued):

CERAPHYL GA(Continued):
Applications:
CERAPHYL GA is an unusual skin softener/moisturizer derived
from refined soybean oil. It provides a rich, full-bodied feel
during rub-out and imparts a non-greasy, non-tacky silky emoll-
ience to the skin. The perceptibly moist, smooth afterfeel
persists long after application.
Several literature references cite CERAPHYL GA's skin-
plasticizing properties and indicate that it may offer the
formulator a novel alternative to traditional moisturization
methods, such as occlusion and hygroscopicity.
When neutralized with an appropriate material (such as
Triethanolamine) CERAPHYL GA also acts as a secondary o/w
emulsifier while retaining its skin-softening properties.
With careful selection of ingredients and processing conditions,
therefore, multi-functional CERAPHYL GA can form the backbone
of products manufactured using low-energy emulsification
techniques.
CERAPHYL GA has a required HLB of 1 0 - 1 2 , and is suitable
for use in all types of creams and lotions. It is also
functional in products such as bath oils and nail treatments,
which are designed to alleviate dryness. In hair products
CERAPHYL GA improves wet-combability and gloss, and reduces
static. A level of 3 - 5 % CERAPHYL GA is recommended for most
skin care applications, and 0 . 5 - 2 % is recommended for hair
care products.

CERAPHYL ICA:
CTFA Name: Isocetyl Alcohol
CAS Number: 3 6 3 1 1 - 3 4 - 9
Physical Form: Clear, colorless, low-odor liquid
Molecular Weight: 2 4 2
Specifications:
Acid Number: 5.0 Max.
Saponification Number: 1 0 . 0 Max.
Hydroxyl Number: 1 9 5 - 2 3 0
Iodine Value: 1 0 . 0 Max.
Specific Gravity ( 2 5 C ) : 0 . 8 3 0 - 0 . 8 4 0
Applications:
CERAPHYL ICA is a non-comedogenic branched fatty alcohol
which imparts a non-greasy, non-occlusive emolliency to emul-
sions. It is ideally suited for "oil-free" cosmetic formula-
tions, and high-pH applications. Required HLB 1 2 - 1 4 . CERAPHYL
ICA is an effective pigment dispersant and binder. It couples
mineral oil and castor oil, resulting in more uniform and
stable stick products. It has low cloud and freezing points,
and is an excellent carrier and extender for flavor and
fragrance oils. It promotes hydroalcoholic solubility, making
it a candidate for clear gel formulas.
 Van Dyk 801

VAN DYK: CERAPHYL and CERASYNT(C0ntinued):

CERAPHYL IPL:
Chemical Name: Isopropyl Linoleate
CTFA Name: Isopropyl Linoleate
Physical Form: Straw to yellow liquid
Specifications:
Acid Number: 3.5 Maximum
Saponification Number: 1 7 0 - 1 80
Specific Gravity @ 25C: 0 . 8 6 0 - 0 . 8 7 0
Refractive Index: 1.4520-1.4540
Iodine Number: 125 Minimum
Applications:
Isopropyl Linoleate is an excellent skin conditioner which
is rapidly absorbed imparting lubrication and smoothness. As
a conditioner for the hair, it results in lustre and softness
and is an effective superfatting agent in detergent systems.

CERASYNT D:
Chemical Name: Stearamide MEA Stearate
CTFA Name: Stearamide MEA Stearate
Physical Form: Cream Flakes
Specifications:
Acid Number: 1 0 - 20
Saponification Number: 9 7 - 1 0 7
Iodine Number: 0.5 Maximum
Melting Point C: 7 6- 82
Applications:
Thickener and opacifier for liquid cream shampoos, partic-
ularly concentrates. Auxiliary emulsifier for hydrocarbon
propellent gas in aqueous aerosol systems such as shave creams

CERASYNT GMS:
Chemical Name: Glyceryl Monostearate
CTFA Name: Glyceryl Stearate
Physical Form: White to Cream Flakes
Specifications:
Acid Value: 3.0 Maximum
Saponification Number: 162-1 7 5
Iodine Number: 2.0 Maximum
Melting Point C: 5 6 - 5 9
Applications:
A Nonionic secondary O/W emulsifier for creams and lotions.
It also effectively increases the viscosity of emulsions.
802 Cosmetics Additives

VAN DYK: CERAPHYL and CERASYNT(C0ntinued):

CERASYNT IP:
Chemical Name: Glycol Stearate (And) Other Ingredients
CTFA Name: Glycol Stearate (And) Other Ingredients
Physical Form: White to cream flakes
Specifications:
Acid Number: 5.0 Maximum
Saponification Number: 1 7 4 - 1 8 4
Iodine Number: 0 . 5 Maximum
Melting Point C: 5 6 . 5 - 5 8 . 5
Applications:
An opacifier and pearling agent for liquid cream and cream
paste shampoos. Imparts minimal decrease to the foaming and
lathering qualities of the detergent system.

CERASYNT LP:
CTFA Name: Glycol Stearate (and) Sodium Laureth Sulfate
(and) Hexylene Glycol
Physical Form: White Opaque Pourable Liquid
Tentative Specification:
pH (as is): 6 . 5 k 0 . 5
Viscosity: ( 5 , 0 0 0 cps
Percent Water: 60.0% - 70.0%
Application:
CERASYNT LP is used to opacify and pearlize shampoo and
other surfactant-based products. The use of CERASYNT LP allows
the formulator to produce EGMS- and EGDS-type pearls without
heating, which can help make the manufacture of pearlized
surfactant based products more cost efficient. A suggested use
level of 3-10% is recommended, but the formulator can vary
these levels to fit their specific goals. This convenient product
is pourable, readily dispersible in water at room temperature,
and exhibits excellent stability as a raw material and in
finished products.

CERASYNT M:
Chemical Name: Ethylene Glycol Monostearate Pure
CTFA Name: Glycol Stearate
Physical Form: White to cream wax (flakes)
Specifications:
Acid Number: 5 Maximum
Saponification Number: 1 8 5 - 1 9 5
Melting Range: 5 6 - 6 0
Applications:
Emulsifier for O/W type solid creams and lotions with high
opacity. Thickening agent for liquid and solid cream shampoos.
 Van Dyk 803

VAN DYK: CERAPHYL and CERASYNT(C0ntinued):

CERASYNT MN:
Chemical Name: Ethylene Glycol Monostearate SE
CTFA Name: Glycol Stearate SE
Physical Form: White to cream flakes
Specifications:
Acid Number: 5.0 Maximum
Saponification Number: 181 -1 91
Iodine Number: 0.5 Maximum
Melting Point C: 5 7 - 6 0
Applications:
Emulsifier for O/W type creams and lotions. Viscosity builder
for emulsions containing high percentage of water in aqueous
phase.

CERASYNT PA:
CTFA Name: Propylene Glycol Stearate
Chemical Name: Propylene Glycol Monostearate
CAS Number: 1323-39-3
Physical Form: Flakes, white to cream-colored
Odor: Bland, typical
Specifications:
Acid Value: 5.0 maximum
Saponification Number: 181 -1 9 1
Iodine Number: 0.5 maximum
Melting Point: 35-38C
Applications:
Emulsifier for lotions and soft creams.
Particularly useful in liquid and cream makeup products.
HLB = 3.

CERASYNT Q:
Chemical Name: Glyceryl Monostearate
Self-Emulsifying (Anionic)
CTFA Name: Glyceryl Stearate SE
Physical Form: White to Cream Flakes
Specifications:
Acid Number: 10 Maximum
Saponification Number: 1 5 0 - 1 6 0
Melting Point IIC: 5 7 - 5 9
Iodine Number: 1.0 Maximum
Applications:
Auxiliary emulsifier for soap O/W emulsions.
804 Cosmetics Additives

VAN DYR: CERAPHYL and CERASYNT(C0ntinued):

CERASYNT SD:
Chemical Name: Glyceryl Monostearate, Pure
CTFA Name: Glyceryl Stearate
Physical Form: White to cream flakes
Specifications:
Acid Number: 2.0 Maximum
Saponification Number: 1 6 5 - 1 7 7
Iodine Number: 0 . 5 Maximum
Melting Point C: 55.0 -
57.5
Applications:
Deodorized non-ionic O/W emulsifier for creams and lotions.
Useful in lotions where thixotropic effect is advantageous.

CERASYNT WM:
Chemical Name: Glyceryl Monostearate, SE (Anionic)
CTFA Name: Glyceryl Stearate (and) Stearyl Alcohol (and)
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Physical Form: White to cream flakes
Specifications:
Acid Number: 5.0 Maximum
Saponification Number: 1 4 0 - 1 5 0
Iodine Number: 0.5 Maximum
Melting Point C: 5 5 -
57
% Ash: 1 . 6 - 1 . 9
Applications:
Emulsifier for O/W type creams, lotions and ointments. Used
in preparations containing high concentrations of electrolytes
such as antiperspirants.

CERASYNT 303:
Chemical Name: Dialkyl Amino Ethyl Stearate
CTFA Name: Diethylaminoethyl stearate
Physical Form: Straw to amber-colored liquid to semi solid
Odor: Amine
Specifications:
Acid Number: 30-40
Saponification Number: 1 5 0 - 1 60
Specific Gravity ( @ 25C): 0.860-0.880
pH (3% solution @ 2 5 C ) : 9 . 5 - 1 0 . 5
Alkaline Number: 1 2 7 - 1 3 7
Applications:
When neutralized with certain acids (Phosphoric for one) to
pH 3-4, CERASYNT 303 becomes an oil in water emulsifier. This
enables the preparation of acid pH emulsions without the use
of nonionic emulsifiers, thus simplifying preservation require-
ments. When used with neutral glyceryl monostearate, the water
dispersible CERASYNT 303-Phosphoric Acid salt forms a self-
emulsifying system.
 Van Dyk 805

VAN DYK: CERASYNT and EMULSYNT:

CERASYNT 840:
Chemical Name: Polyethylene Glycol 1000 Monostearate
CTFA Name: PEG-20 Stearate
Physical Form:
Acid Number: 5.0 Maximum
Saponification Number: 40-50
Iodine Number: 0.25 Maximum
Melting Point C: 39.5-42.5
Applications:
Emulsifier for O/W type creams and lotions. As a superfatting
agent in detergent shampoos. Increases viscosity and stability
in cream lotions. Stable with medicaments in ointment type
preparations. Useful vehicle for products in stick form required
to melt at body temperature.

CERASYNT 945:
Chemical Name: Glyceryl Monostearate, SE (Non-Ionic)
CTFA Name: Glyceryl Stearate (and) Laureth-23
Physical Form: White to cream flakes
Specifications:
Acid Number: 5.0 Maximum
Saponification Number: 142-1 52
Iodine Number: 0.5 Maximum
Melting Point C: 53-55
Applications:
Nonionic acid stabilized emulsifier for cosmetic and
pharmaceutical creams and lotions. Particularly applicable
for anti-perspirant lotions, depilitory creams, hair straight-
eners, and emulsions containing a wide variety of medicaments.
Forms opaque gels with mineral oil. Excellent emulsifier base
for cleansing creams.

EMULSYNT GDL:
Chemical Name: Glyceryl Dilaurate
CTFA Name: Glyceryl Dilaurate
Physical Form: White to off-white soft solid
Specifications:
Acid Number: 5.0 Maximum
Saponification Number: 219-229
Applications:
EMULSYNT GDL is a water dispersible lipid which melts
slightly below body temperature and has a distinct emulsifying
characteristic as well as emollient feel which makes it a unique
ingredient for creams and lotions.
806 Cosmetics Additives

VAN DYK: EMULSYNT and ESCALOL:

EMULSYNT 1 0 55 :
Chemical Name: Poloxyalkylene Oleate-Laurate
CTFA Name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate (And) PEG-8 Propylene
Glycol Cocoate
Physical Form: Light amber liquid
Specifications:
Acid Number: 5.0 Maximum
Saponification Number: 142-1 52
Iodine Number: 58-68
Specific Gravity @ 25C: 0.960-0.980
Applications:
A very effective W/O emulsifier for cosmetic and pharmaceut-
ical lotions and creams. Excellent stabilizer as auxiliary
emulsifier for o/w systems.

ESCALOL 507:
Chemical Name: 2-Ethylhexyl p-Dimethylaminobenzoate
CTFA Name: Octyl Dimethyl PABA
CAS Number: 21245-02-3
Physical Form: Pale yelloh mobile liquid
Odor: Very mild, characteristic
Molecular Formula: C17H2502N
Molecular Weight: 277
Specifications:
Acid Value: 1.0 maximum
Saponification Number: 195-215
Specific Gravity (25C): 0.990-1.000
Refractive Index (25C): 1.5390-1.5430
Applications:
Non-staining Categeory I UV-B sunscreen.
Approved use level: 1.8-8.0% in the U.S.
Required HLB: 10-12

ESCALOL 557:
Chemical Name: 2-Ethylhexyl p-Methoxycinnamate
CTFA Name: Octyl Methoxycinnamate
Molecular Formula: C18H2603
Molecular Weight: 290.4
CAS Number: 5466-77-3
Physical Form: Pale yellow liquid with slight, character-
istically mild, odor.
Specifications:
Acid Number: 1.0 Max.
Saponification Number: 189 Min.
Refractive Index (25C): 1.542-1.548
Specific Gravity (25C): 1 .005-1 .013
Purity (GLC): 98% Min.
Applications:
Non-staining Category I UV-B sunscreen with worldwide accept-
ance and broad compatibility with most cosmetic ingredients.
Required HLB = 6-8
 Van Dyk 807

VAN DYK: ESCALOL and FOAMOLE:

ESCALOL 567:
Chemical Name: 2-Hydroxy-4-Methoxybenzophenone
CTFA Name: Benzophenone-3
CAS # : 131-57-7
Molecular Weight: 228.25
Physical Form: Slightly yellowish, fine crystalline powder
Molecular Formula: C14H1203
Specifications:
Melting Point: 62C. Min.
Assay: 97.0-103.0% (USPXXI)
Loss on Drying: 2.0% Maximum
Applications:
This category I sunscreen exhibits broad UV absorbance in
the UVB range and into the UVA range. Its worldwide acceptance
makes it a natural choice, particularly when high SPF's are
desired.

ESCALOL 587:
Chemical Name: 2-Ethylhexyl Salicylate
CTFA Name: Octyl Salicylate
CAS Number: 118-60-5
Physical Form: Colorless to pale yellow liquid
Odor: Typical, bland
Molecular Formula: C15H2203
Molecular Weight: 250.34
Tentative Specifications:
Acid Value: 2 max.
Saponification Number: 200-230
Specific Gravity (25C): 1 .013-I .022
Refractive Index: 1.495-1.505
Applications:
Category I UV B sunscreen
Approved use level: 3-5% in the U.S.

FOAMOLE A:
Chemical Name: Linoleic Alkanolamide (1 :1 )
CTFA Name: Linoleamide DEA
Physical Form: Amber Liquid
Specifications:
Acid Number: 5.0 Maximum
% Amine as DEA: 7.0 Maximum
Alkali Number: 21 -35
Specific Gravity @ 25C: 0.972-0.982
Applications:
Excellent conditioning agent for hair dressings and shampoos.
Also acts as a thickening agent and foam stabilizer.
808 Cosmetics Additives

VAN DYK: FOAMOLE:

FOAMOLE B:
Chemical Name: Minkamidopropyl Dimethylamine
CTFA Name: Minkamidopropyl Dimethylamine
Physical Form: Amber liquid to flowing gel
Typical Assay:
Alkali Number: 1 2 5 - 1 40
Acid Value: 5.0 Maximum
pH ( 1 % Aq. Soln.): 9 . 5 - 1 0 . 5
Applications:
As a super-fatting agent in shampoos and other hair care
products when used at 2 - 4 % level. This fatty tertiary amino
amide is water dispersible and surfactant and propylene
glycol soluble. FOAMOLE B reacts with acids (i.e. lactic,
phosphoric) to form a water soluble cationic surfactant which
has emulsifying and emollient properties. In combination with
neutral Glyceryl Monostearate, the FOAMOLE B-lactate or phos-
phate derivative forms stable, acid pH creams and lotions
without the need for ethoxylated nonionics, thus enabling
the use of parabens for preservation. The preferable pH for
the lactate or phosphate salt to remain stable (no pH drift)
is 3.5-4.2.

FOAMOLE M:
Chemical Name: Coconut Monoethanolamide
CTFA Name: Cocamide MEA
Physical Form: Cream colored flakes
Specifications:
Acid Number: 2.0 Maximum
Alkali Number: 12.0 Maximum
Melting Point C: 7 0 - 7 4
Applications:
Foam builder, stabilizer and thickener for shampoos,
bubble baths, and other detergents. Emulsifier for creams
and lotions, particularly useful in cream hair dyes.
 Van Dyk 809

VAN DYK: BI-LITE Pearlescent Pigments:

The BI-LITE pearls were developed as a less expensive
alternative to pure bismuth oxychloride. They consist of a
chemical deposition of bismuth oxychloride on platelets of
muscovite mica. This "sandwich" or laminate structure provides
excellent crystalline strength to withstand rigorous processing
and handling while still maintaining a high degree of pearles-
cent luster typical of bismuth oxychloride type pearls. The
mica also regulates the particle size and reduces the density
of the pearl in comparison to 100% bismuth oxychloride. The
optical reflectance is accentuated by the high refractive indices
of mica and bismuth oxychloride, 1 . 5 9 and 2 . 1 5 respectively.

BI-LITE 20:
Bismuth Oxychloride Deposited on Mica
A translucent pearlescent pigment providing high luster,
moderate density, and good skin adhesion.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 40%
Density: 3.8 gm/ml
Appearance: White pearlescent, free flowing powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 2-5 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: Average 1 5 - 2 5 microns
9 0 % less than 4 4 microns
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 1 0 0 colonies/gram Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Applications:
BI-LITE 20 can be used in pressed powders, creams and
lipsticks or wherever a satiny, translucent pearlescent effect is
desired. Alone or in combination with other pearlescent pigments,
BI-LITE 20 offers excellent economy and performance. The depos-
ition provides a non-separating, moderate density pearlescent
pigment. Crystal strength is heightened by the laminated struct-
ure to permit rigorous processing without the loss of luster.
Formulation Considerations:
BI-LITE 20 is recommended in pressed powders at concentrations
up to 2 5 % . For higher concentrations, BI-LITE ULTRAPRESS, or
PEARL-GLO pearls are recommended for ease of compressibility.
Regulatory Information: U.S. Patent No. 3 , 5 9 7 , 2 5 0
FDA CRMCS No. ROO10979
810 Cosmetics Additives

VAN DYK: BI-LITE ULTRALITE:

Bismuth Oxychloride Deposited on Mica
A highly transparent pearlescent pigment providing low
density, satiny luster, low coverage, and skin adhesion.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 10%
Density: 2.9 gm/ml
Appearance: White pearlescent, free flowing powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 2-4 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: Average 15-30 microns
75% less than 44 microns
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 100 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Applications:
BI-LITE ULTRALITE pigment is used in low and moderate conc-
entrations as a cosmetic filler with the added qualities of skin
adhesion, slip, and brightness of bismuth oxychloride. The dep-
osition provides a non-separating, low density, highly trans-
parent pearlescent pigment. Crystal strength is heightened by
the laminated structure of the mica substrate.
Formulation Considerations:
BI-LITE ULTRALITE may be used in formulations which require
moderate levels of pearlescence and cannot use high density
pearlescent pigments. BI-LITE ULTRALITE may also be readily
incorporated in wax, oil and water based cosmetic products.
Regulatory Information:
U.S. Patent No. 3,597,250
FDA CRMCS No. ROO13103
 VanDyk 811

VAN DYKE BI-LITE ULTRAPRESS:

Bismuth Oxychloride Deposited on Mica with a Surface Modif-
ication
A translucent, highly compressible pearlescent pigment
providing a satiny luster, moderate opacity, and good skin
adhesion.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 40%
Density: 3.7 gm/ml
Appearance: White, pearlescent, free flowing powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 4-6 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: Average 15-25 microns
85% less than 4 4 microns
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 1 0 0 colonies/gram Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Applications:
The outstanding compressibility of BI-LITE ULTRAPRESS
pigment makes it especially useful in pressed powders, where a
satiny luster and relatively low cost are desired.
Formulation Considerations:
BI-LITE ULTRAPRESS was developed primarily for pressed
powder formulations, however, it can be used effectively in
all types of cosmetic systems. It has exceptional flow and
blending properties and mixes readily with waxes, oils and
emollients.
Regulatory Information:
U.S. Patent No. 3,597,250 and 3,656,982
FDA CRMCS NO. ROO10979
812 Cosmetics Additives

V A N DYK: BI-LITE ULTRAWHITE:

Titanium Dioxide Bonded to Bismuth Oxychloride, Deposited on
Mica
A pearlescent pigment providing satiny luster with high
covering power (opacity), and good skin adhesion at low cost.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 36%
Assay Ti02: 5%
Density: 3.5 gm/ml
Appearance: White, pearlescent, free flowing powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 2-4 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: Average 15-25 microns
85% less than 4 4 microns
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiology: Total Count: 1 0 0 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Applications:
BI-LITE ULTRAWHITE pearlescent pigment is used in pressed
powders and creams where satiny luster and especially high
high opacity are needed at low cost.
Formulation Considerations:
Added covering power or shade lightening may be accom-
plished using BI-LITE ULTRAWHITE alone, or in combination with
other pearlescent pigments. A satiny luster may be imparted in
powder or wax systems.
Regulatory Information:
U.S. Patent No. 3,597,250 and 3,647,492
FDA CRMCS No. ROO10978
 VanDyk 813

VAN DYK: CHROMA-LITE Pearlescent Pigments:

CHROMA-LITE pearlescent pigments are uniquely bonded combina-
toons of colored pigments and BI-LITE 20 (Mica (and) Bismuth
Oxychloride). The colored pigments are completely extended and
bonded to the BI-LITE 20 using calcium stearate. In the same
manner as BI-LITE ULTRAWHITE, the CHROMALITE pearls provide
intense color and a subdued satiny luster.
CHROMA-LITE Black:
Colored pigment bonded to Bismuth Oxychloride Deposited on
Mica.
The CHROMA-LITE pearls are colored pigments chemically
bonded to the BI-LITE 20 substrate. The color and pearlescence in
each crystalline particle produce a uniquely clear, intense,
lustrous color which is readily blended, dispersed or compressed
in cosmetic formulations.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 30%
Assay Fe203: 25%
Appearance: Intensely colored pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 3-6 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: 90% less than 44 microns
Density: 3.5 gm/ml
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 1 0 0 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Applications:
In pressed powders and cream eye shadows, as well as all
other colored make-up products, the CHROMA-LITE pigments offer
the advantages of blending, rather than milling color into the
product, excellent skin adhesion, good pearlescence, and a
unique optical appearance. The bonding of the colored pigment
minimizes pigment migration which results in "creasing".
Formulation Considerations:
Rigorous milling should be minimized to avoid loss of
pearlescence and pigment separation from the platelet.
Regulatory Information:
U . S . Patent Nos. 3,597,250 and 3,647,492
FDA CRMCS No. ROO10980
8 14 Cosmetics Additives

VAN DYK: CHROMA-LITE Bronze:

Colored pigment bonded to Bismuth Oxychloride Deposited on
Mica.
The CHROMA-LITE pearls are colored pigments chemically
bonded to the BI-LITE 20 substrate. The color and pearlescence
in each crystalline particle produce a uniquely clear, intense,
lustrous color which is readily blended, dispersed or compressed
in cosmetic formulations.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 30-38%
Assay Fe203: 25%
Appearance: Intensely colored pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 3-6 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: 90% less than 44 microns
Density: 3.5 gm/ml
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 1 0 0 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Applications:
In pressed powders and cream eye shadows, as well as all
other colored makeup products, the CHROMA-LITE pigments offer
the advantages of blending, rather than milling color into
the product, excellent skin adhesion, good pearlescence, and
a unique optical appearance. The bonding of the colored pigment
minimizes pigment migration which results in "creasing".
Regulatory Information:
U . S . Patent Nos. 3,597,250 and 3,647,492
FDA CRMCS No. ROO10980

CHROMA-LITE Light Blue:

Colored pigment bonded to Bismuth Oxychloride Deposited
on Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 38%
Assay FeNH4Fe(CN)6: 5%
Appearance: Intensely colored pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 3-6 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: 90% less than 44 microns
Density: 3.5 gm/ml
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 100 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Regulatory Information: U . S . Patent Nos. 3,597,250 and 3,647,492
FDA CRMCS NO. ROO10980
 VanDyk 815

VAN DYK: CHROMA-LITE Dark Blue:

Colored pigment bonded to Bismuth Oxychloride Deposited
on Mica
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 3 5 %
Assay FeNH4Fe(CN)6: 1 3 %
Appearance: Intensely colored pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 3 - 6 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: 9 0 % less than 44 microns
Density: 3.5 gm/ml
Lead: 2 0 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 pprn Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 100 colonies/grarn, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Regulatory Information: U . S . Patent Nos. 3,597,250 and 3 , 6 4 7 , 4 9 2
FDA CRMCS NO. ROO10980

CHROMA-LITE Yellow:
Colored pigment bonded to Bismuth Oxychloride Deposited on
Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 3 0 - 3 8 %
Appearance: Intensely colored pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 3 - 6 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: 90% less than 44 microns
Density: 3.5 gm/ml
Lead: 2 0 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 100 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Regulatory Information: U . S . Patent Nos. 3 , 5 9 7 , 2 5 0 and 3 , 6 4 7 , 4 9 2
FDA CRMCS No. ROO1 0 9 8 0
816 Cosmetics Additives

VAN DYK: CHROMA-LITE Green:

Colored pigment bonded to Bismuth Oxychloride Deposited on
Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 30%
Assay Chromium Oxide Green: 25%
Appearance: Intensely colored pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 3-6 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: 90% less than 44 microns
Density: 3.5 gm/ml
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 1 0 0 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Regulatory Information: U . S . Patent Nos. 3,597,250 and 3,647,492
FDA CRMCS No. ROO10880

CHROMA-LITE Gold:
Colored pigment bonded to Bismuth Oxychloride Deposited on
Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 30%
Assay Fe203: 25%
Appearance: Intensely colored pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 3-6 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: 90% less than 44 microns
Density: 3.5 gm/ml
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiogical: Total Count: 100 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Regulatory Information: U.S. Patent Nos. 3,597,250 and 3,647,492
FDA CRMCS No. ROO10980
 VanDyk 817

VAN DYK: CHROMA-LITE Magenta:

Colored pigment bonded to Bismuth Oxychloride Deposited on
Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 3 8 %
Assay Carmine: 5 %
Appearance: Intensely colored pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 3-6 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: 9 0 % less than 4 4 microns
Density: 3.5 gm/ml
Lead: 2 0 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 1 0 0 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Regulatory Information: U.S. Patent Nos. 3 , 5 9 7 , 2 5 0 and 3 , 6 4 7 , 4 9 2
FDA CRMCS No. ROO1 0 9 8 0

CHROMA-LITE Red:
Colored pigment bonded to Bismuth Oxychloride Deposited on
Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 3 0 %
Assay Fe203: 2 5 %
Appearance: Intensely colored pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 3-6 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: 9 0 % less than 4 4 microns
Density: 3.5 gm/ml
Lead: 2 0 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximurn
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 1 0 0 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Regulatory Information: U . S . Patent Nos. 3 , 5 9 7 , 2 5 0 and 3 , 6 4 7 , 4 9 2
FDA CRMCS No. R O O 1 0 9 8 0
818 Cosmetics Additives

VAN DYK: CHROMA-LITE Violet:

Colored pigment bonded to Bismuth Oxychloride Deposited on
Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 3 0 %
Assay Manganese Violet: 2 5 %
Appearance: Intensely colored pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 3-6 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: 9 0 % less than 4 4 microns
Density: 3.5 gm/ml
Lead: 2 0 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 1 0 0 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Regulatory Information: U.S. Patent Nos. 3,597,250 and 3,647,492
FDA CRMCS No. ROO10980

CHROMA-LITE Aqua:
Colored pigment bonded to Bismuth Oxychloride Deposited on
Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 3 0 %
Assay Chromium Hydroxide Green: 2 5 %
Appearance: Intensely colored pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 3-6 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: 9 0 % less than 4 4 microns
Density: 3.5 gm/ml
Lead: 2 0 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 100 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Regulatory Information: U.S. Patent Nos. 3,597,250 and 3 , 6 4 7 , 4 9 2
FDA CRMCS No. ROO10980
 VanDyk 819

VAN DYK: CHROMA-LITE Brown:

Colored pigment bonded to Bismuth Oxychloride Deposited on
Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 30-38%
Assay Fe203: 25%
Appearance: Intensely colored pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 3-6 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: 90% less than 44 microns
Density: 3.5 gm/ml
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 100 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Regulatory Information: U.S. Patent Nos. 3,597,250 and 3,647,492
FDA CRMCS No. ROO10980

CHROMA-LITE Purple:
Colored pigment bonded to Bismuth Oxychloride Deposited on
Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 30%
Assay Ultramarine Blue: 25%
Appearance: Intensely colored pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 3-6 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: 90% less than 44 microns
Density: 3.5 gm/ml
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 100 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Regulatory Information: U.S. Patent Nos. 3,597,250 and 3,647,492
FDA CRMCS No. ROO10980
820 Cosmetics Additives

VAN DYK: CHROMA-LITE Mauve:

Colored pigment bonded to Bismuth Oxychloride Deposited on
Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 30-38%
Assay Fe203: 2 5 %
Appearance: Intensely colored pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 3-6 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: 90% less than 44 microns
Density: 3.5 gm/ml
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 1 0 0 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Regulatory Information: U.S. Patent Nos. 3,597,250 and 3,647,492
FDA CRMCS No. ROO10980
 Van Dyk 821

VAN DYK: LUSTRA-PEARL Pigments:

VAN DYK: LUSTRA-PEARL Amethyst:
Titanium Dioxide Deposited on Mica
A highly lustrous pearlescent pigment providing exceptional
ultraviolet light stability and low density.
Typical Analysis:
Assay Ti02: 20%
Assay Mica: 60%
Assay Fe203: 20%
Density: 2.0-4.0 gm/ml
Appearance: Mauve colored, free flowing pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 4 - 6 gm/cu in.
Particle Size: 90% less than 7 4 microns
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 1 0 0 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Applications:
LUSTRA-PEARL Amethyst pigment is used in pressed powders,
creams, lipsticks, nail lacquers and lotions to obtain a
shiny sparkle. Alone or in combination with other pigments,
LUSTRA-PEARL Amethyst pigment offers excellent economy in
cost and performance. The deposition provides a non-separating,
moderate density pearlescent pigment. Crystal strength is
heightened by the laminated structure to permit rigorous
mixing and milling without the loss of luster.
Regulatory Information: CTFA Name: Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide
822 Cosmetics Additives

VAN DYK: LUSTRA-PEARL Glimmer:

Titanium Dioxide Deposited on Mica
A highly lustrous pearlescent pigment providing exceptional
ultraviolet light stability and low density.
Typical Analysis:
Assay Ti02: 22%
Density: 2.7 gm/ml
Appearance: White pearlescent, free flowing powder
B u l k Density (Scott): 4 . 0 - 4 . 5 gm/cu in.
Particle Size: Average 8 - 1 5 microns
8 5 % less than 4 4 microns
Lead: 2 0 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 1 0 0 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Applications:
LUSTRA-PEARL Glimmer pigment is used in pressed powders,
creams, lipsticks, nail lacquers and lotions to obtain a
shiny sparkle. Alone or in combination with other pigments,
LUSTRA-PEARL Glimmer pigment offers excellent economy in cost
and performance. The deposition provides a non-separating,
moderate density pearlescent pigment. Crystal strength is
heightened by the laminated structure to permit rigorous
mixing and milling without the loss of luster.
Formulation Considerations:
LUSTRA-PEARL Glimmer pigment is recommended in pressed
powders at concentrations up to 3 5 % . For higher concentrations,
an addition of 5 - 1 0 % BI-LITE Ultrapress or PEARL-GLO pigments
are recommended to aid compressibility.
Regulatory Consideration:
CTFA Name: Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide
 Van Dyk 823

VAN DYK: LUSTRA-PEARL Gloss:

Titanium Dioxide Deposited on Mica
A highly lustrous pearlescent pigment providing exceptional
ultraviolet light stability and low density.
Typical Analysis:
Assay Ti02: 24%
Density: 2.8 gm/ml
Appearance: White pearlescent, free flowing powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 3.0-4.0 gm/cu in
Particle Size: Average 5-14 microns
85% less than 44 microns
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 100 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Applications:
LUSTRA-PEARL Gloss pigment is used in pressed powders,
creams, lipsticks, nail lacquers and lotions to obtain a
glossy sparkle. Alone or in combination with other pigments,
LUSTRA-PEARL Gloss pigment offers excellent economy in cost
and performance. The deposition provides a non-separating,
moderate density pearlescent pigment. Crystal strength is
heightened by the laminated structure to permit rigorous
mixing and milling without the l o s s of luster.
Formulation Considerations:
LUSTRA-PEARL Gloss pigment is recommended in pressed powders
at concentrations up to 35%. For higher concentrations, an
addition of 5-10% BI-LITE Ultrapress or PEARL-GLO pigments are
recommended to aid compressibility.
Regulatory Information:
CTFA Name: Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide
824 Cosmetics Additives

VAN DYK: LUSTRA-PEARL Gold:

Titanium Dioxide Deposited on Mica
A highly lustrous pearlescent pigment providing exceptional
ultraviolet light stability and low density.
Typical Analysis:
Assay Ti02: 3 5 %
Density: 3 . 4 gm/ml
Appearance: Yellow-gold pearlescent, free flowing powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 3.0-4.0 gm/cu in.
Particle Size: Average 5 - 1 5 microns
8 5 % less than 4 4 microns
Lead: 2 0 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 1 0 0 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Applications:
LUSTRA-PEARL Gold is used in pressed powders, creams,
lipsticks, nail lacquers and lotions to obtain a glossy
sparkle. Alone or in combination with other pigments, LUSTRA-
PEARL Gold pigment offers excellent economy in cost and
performance. The deposition provides a non-separating, moderate
density pearlescent pigment. Crystal strength is heightened
by the laminated structure to permit rigorous mixing and milling
without the loss of luster.
Formulation Considerations:
LUSTRA-PEARL Gold pigment is recommended in pressed powders
at concentrations up to 4 5 % . For higher concentrations, BI-LITE
Ultrapress or PEARL-GLO pigments are recommended to aid com-
pressibility.
Regulatory Information:
CTFA Name: Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Iron Oxide
 Van Dyk 825

VAN DYK: LUSTRA-PEARL Satin:

Titanium Dioxide Deposited on Mica
A highly lustrous pearlescent pigment providing exceptional
ultraviolet light stability and low density.
Typical Analysis:
Assay Ti02: 27%
Density: 3.0 gm/ml
Appearance: White pearlescent, free flowing powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 2 . 5 - 3 . 5 gm/cu in.
Particle Size: Average 4 - 1 1 microns
90% less than 4 4 microns
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 1 0 0 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Applications:
LUSTRA-PEARL Satin pigment is used in pressed powders,
creams, lipsticks, nail lacquers and lotions to obtain a
glossy satin luster. Alone or in combination with other
pigments, LUSTRA-PEARL Satin pigment offers excellent economy
in cost and performance. The deposition provides a non-separ-
ating, moderate density pearlescent pigment. Crystal strength
is heightened by the laminated structure to permit rigorous
mixing and milling without the loss of luster.
Formulation Considerations:
LUSTRA-PEARL Satin pigment is recommended in pressed powders
at concentrations up to 40%. For higher concentrations,
BI-LITE Ultrapress or PEARL-GLO pigments are recommended to aid
compressibility.
Regulatory Information:
CTFA Name: Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide
826 Cosmetics Additives

VAN DYK: LUSTRA-PEARL Silk:

Titanium Dioxide Deposited on Mica
A highly lustrous pearlescent pigment providing exceptional
ultraviolet light stability and low density.
Typical Analysis:
Assay Ti02: 30%
Density: 3.0 gm/ml
Appearance: White pearlescent, free flowing powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 2.4-3.4 gm/cu in.
Particle Size: Average 3-9 microns
9 5 % less than 44 microns
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 1 0 0 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Applications:
LUSTRA-PEARL Silk pigment is used in pressed powders, creams,
lipsticks, nail lacquers and lotions to obtain a silky sheen.
Alone or in combination with other pigments, LUSTRA-PEARL Silk
pigment offers excellent economy in cost and performance. The
deposition provides a non-separating, moderate density pearl-
escent pigment. Crystal strength is heightened by the lam-
inated structure to permit rigorous mixing and milling without
the loss of luster.
Formulation Considerations:
LUSTRA-PEARL Silk pigment is recommended in pressed powders
at concentrations up to 45%. For higher concentrations, an
addition of 5-10% BI-LITE Ultrapress or PEARL-GLO pigments
are recommended to aid compressibility.
Regulatory Information:
CTFA Name: Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide
 Van Dyk 827

VAN DYK: PEARL-GLO Pearlescent Pigments:

PEARL-GLO pearlescent pigments are pure bismuth oxychloride
pigments designed for cosmetics which require a high degree of
luster and opacity. PEARL-GLO pigments provide a deep, satiny
luster with high covering power and optimum compressibility.
Their superior skin adhesion makes them excellent pigments for
cosmetics which are formulated as pressed or loose powders to be
worn for long periods.
PEARL-GLO:
Bismuth Oxychloride
A highly lustrous pigment with excellent covering power,
skin adhesion and compressibility.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 98% Minimum
Density: 7.7 gm/ml
Appearance: White, pearlescent, free flowing powder
Bulk (Scott): 9-13 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: Average 6-15 microns
95% less than 4 4 microns
100% less than 7 4 microns
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 100 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Applications:
PEARL-GLO is a highly pearlescent pigment which provides an
optimum balance of luster, opacity and compressibility in
pressed powders, lipsticks and other make-up products. In powder
formulations, PEARL-GLO imparts a more satiny pearlescence and
greater adhesion to the skin than non-bismuth based pearlescent
pigments.
Regulatory Information: FDA CRMCS No. ROO10976
828 Cosmetics Additives

VAN DYK: PEARL-GLO M:

Bismuth Oxychloride
A lustrous pearl with excellent covering power, skin
adhesion, and compressibility in a UV light resistant form,
PEARL-GLO is similar to PEARL-GLO UVR but with higher
covering power and smaller particle size.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 98% Minimum
Density: 7.7 gm/ml
Appearance: White, pearlescent, free flowing powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 6-10 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: Average 4-10 microns
98% less than 44 microns
100% less than 7 4 microns
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 100 colonies/gram, maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Applications:
For make-up products in transparent packaging, PEARL-GLO M
offers the superior satiny pearlescence, opacity, and compress-
ibility of bismuth oxychloride in a light resistant form. Since
PEARL-GLO M has a slightly smaller particle size than PEARL-GLO
UVR it delivers a somewhat higher degree of opacity. In all
types of packaging PEARL-GLO M provides the formulator with
extra insurance against light-induced darkening of bismuth
oxychloride pearls in pressed powders, anhydrous creams and gels,
and stick products.
Regulatory Information: U.S. Patent No. 3,917,671
FDA CRMCS No. ROO11891
 Van Dyk 829

VAN DYK: PEARL-GLO UVR:

Bismuth Oxychloride
A highly lustrous pigment with excellent covering power,
skin adhesion and compressibility. PEARL-GLO UVR is unique
among bismuth oxychloride type pearls in being extremely
resistant to the graying effect of ultraviolet light,
without the addition of UV light absorbers. PEARL-GLO M
and PEARL-GLO SF-UVR offer the same advantage, but have
different particle sizes.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 98% Minimum
Density: 7.7 gm/ml
Appearance: White, pearlescent, free flowing powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 7-10 gm/cu. inch
Particle Size: Average 6-15 microns
90% less than 44 microns
97% less than 74 microns
100% less than 105 microns
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 100 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Applications:
For make-up products in transparent packaging, PEARL-GLO
UVR offers the superior satiny pearlescence, opacity, and
compressibility of bismuth oxychloride in light-resistant form.
In all types of packaging, PEARL-GLO UVR provides the formulator
with extra insurance against light-induced darkening of bismuth
oxychloride pearls in pressed powders, anhydrous cremes, and
stick products.
Regulatory Information: U . S . Patent No. 3,917,671
FDA CRMCS No. ROO11891
830 Cosmetics Additives

VAN DYK: PEARL GLO F:

Bismuth Oxychloride
A lustrous pigment with excellent covering power, skin
adhesion, compressibility and a fine particle size.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 98% Minimum
Density: 7.7 gm/ml
Appearance: White, pearlescent, free flowing powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 7-13 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: Average 1-8 microns
98% less than 4 4 microns
100% less than 7 4 microns
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 2 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 100 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Applications:
PEARL-GLO is a highly pearlescent pigment which provides a
balance of luster, opacity and compressibility in pressed
powders, pencils, sticks and other make-up products. In formula-
tions, PEARL-GLO F imparts a greater adhesion to the skin than
other bismuth based pearls. The fine particle size offers an
elegant appearance and texture to the finished product.
Regulatory Information: FDA CRMCS No. ROO10976

PEARL-GLO SF:
Bismuth Oxychloride
A pearlescent pigment with excellent flowability and dispers-
ability providing exceptional covering power, skin adhesion,
compressibility with an extremely fine particle size.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 98% Minimum
Density: 7.7 gm/ml
Appearance: White pearlescent, free flowing powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 10 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: Average 3-8 microns
99.5% less than 4 4 microns
100% less than 7 4 microns
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 100 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
 Van Dyk 831

VAN DYK: PEARL-GLO SF(Continued):

Applications:
PEARL-GLO SF has applications in various types of eye shadows,
blushers, lip and general face make-up formulations. The unique
flow, bulk and dispersion characteristics aid pressed powder,
extrusion molded and cream type cosmetic products. As with all
PEARL-GLO pearls, the satiny luster, skin adhesion and elegant
skin feel complement any product in which they are used.
Regulatory Information:
FDA CRMCS No. ROO10976

PEARL-GLO SF UVR:
Bismuth Oxychloride
A lustrous pigment with excellent covering power, skin ad-
hesion and dispersibility with an extremely fine particle size.
PEARL-GLO SF UVR is similar to the other ultraviolet stable
bismuth oxychloride by resisting graying without addition of
UV light absorbers.
Typical Analysis:
Assay BiOC1: 98% Minimum
Density: 7.7 gm/ml
Appearance: White, pearlescent, free flowing powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 7-10 gm/cu inch
Particle Size: Average 3-15 microns
90% less than 44 microns
100% less than 105 microns
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 100 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Applications:
For make-up products in transparent packaging, PEARL-GLO
SF UVR offers the superior satiny pearlescence, opacity, and
compressibility of bismuth oxychloride with in a light-
resistant form and an extremely fine particle size. In all
types of packaging, PEARL-GLO SF UVR provides the formulator
with extra insurance against light-induced darkening of bismuth
oxychloride pearls in pressed powders, anhydrous cremes, and
stick products.
Regulatory Information:
U.S. Patent No. 3,917,671
FDA CRMCS No. ROO11891
832 Cosmetics Additives

VAN DYK: SPECTRA-PEARL Pigments:

SPECTRA-PEARL BLW:
Colored inorganic pigments bonded to titanium dioxide dep-
osited on Mica.
The SPECTRA-PEARL pigments are chemically bonded colors to
a pearlescent pigment substrate. The combination of the pearl-
escence and color in each crystalline particle produces a
unique non-separating, intensely colored, pearlescent pigment
with a sparkle appearance. The SPECTRA-PEARL pigments are
readily blended or dispersed either wet or dry in cosmetic
formulations.
Typical Analysis:
Assay Mica: 6 6 %
Titanium Dioxide: 18%
Assay FeNH4Fe(CN)6: 15%
Density: 2.0-4.0 gm/ml
Appearance: Intensely colored, blue pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 4-6 gm/cu in.
Particle Size: 90% less than 7 4 microns
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 1 0 0 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
Applications:
In wax based systems, SPECTRA-PEARL pigments provide a high
sparkle appearance which may be used with bismuth oxychloride
pigments or alone. In pressed powders, low SPECTRA-PEARL pig-
ment concentrations create a unique surface effect and optical
appearance. The bonding of the colored pigment reduces pigment
migration which may result in "creasing".
Regulatory Information: U . S . Patent No. 3,647,492
FDA CRMCS No. ROO12218

SPECTRA-PEARL GNW:
Colored inorganic pigments bonded to titanium dioxide
deposited on Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay Mica: 50%
Titanium Dioxide: 14%
Chromium Oxide: 35%
Density: 2.0-4.0 g m / m l
Appearance: Intensely colored, green pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 4-6 gm/cu in.
Particle Size: 90% less than 7 4 microns
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 100 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
 Van Dyk 833

VAN DYK: SPECTRA-PEARL BKW:

Colored inorganic pigments bonded to titanium dioxide
deposited on Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay Mica: 50%
Titanium Dioxide: 1 4 %
Iron Oxide: 3 5 %
Density: 2.0-4.0 gm/ml
Appearance: Intensely colored, pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 4 - 6 gm/cu in.
Particle Size: 90% less than 7 4 microns
Lead: 2 0 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 100 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative

SPECTRA-PEARL PLW:
Colored inorganic pigments bonded to titanium dioxide
deposited on Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay Mica: 5 0 %
Titanium Dioxide: 1 4 %
Ultramarine Blue: 3 5 %
Density: 2.0-4.0 gm/ml
Appearance: Intensely colored, purple pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 4 - 6 gm/cu in.
Particle Size: 90% less than 7 4 microns
Lead: 2 0 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 pprn Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 100 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative

SPECTRA-PEARL BNW:
Colored inorganic pigments bonded to titanium dioxide
deposited on Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay Mica: 50%
Titanium Dioxide: 1 4 %
Iron Oxide: 3 5 %
Density: 2.0-4.0 gm/ml
Appearance: Intensely colored, brown pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 4 - 6 gm/cu in.
Particle Size: 90% less than 7 4 microns
Lead: 2 0 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 1 0 0 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
834 Cosmetics Additives

VAN DYK: SPECTRA-PEARL YWG:

Colored inorganic pigments bonded to titanium dioxide
deposited on Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay Mica: 4 5 %
Titanium Dioxide: 1 9 %
Iron Oxide: 3 5 %
Density: 2.0-4.0 gm/ml
Appearance: Intensely colored, gold pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 4 - 6 gm/cu in.
Particle Size: 9 0 % less than 7 4 microns
Lead: 2 0 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Mirobiological: Total Count: 1 0 0 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
SPECTRA-PEARL BLG:
Colored inorganic pigments bonded to titanium dioxide
deposited on Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay Mica: 5 9 %
Titanium Dioxide: 2 5 %
FeNH4Fe(CN)6: 2 5 %
Density: 2.0-4.0 gm/ml
Appearance: Intensely colored, blue pearlescent powder with
a gold background
Bulk Density (Scott): 4 - 6 gm/cu in.
Particle Size: 9 0 % less than 7 4 microns
Lead: 2 0 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 1 0 0 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
SPECTRA-PEARL GNG:
Colored inorganic pigments bonded to titanium dioxide
deposited on Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay Mica: 4 5 %
Titanium Dioxide: 1 9 %
Chrome Oxide: 3 5 %
Density: 2.0-4.0 gm/ml
Appearance: Intensely colored, green pearlescent powder
with a gold background
Bulk Density (Scott): 4-6 gm/cu in.
Particle Size: 9 0 % less than 7 4 microns
Lead: 2 0 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 1 0 0 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
 Van Dyk 835

VAN DYK: SPECTRA-PEARL BKG:

Colored inorganic pigments bonded to titanium dioxide
deposited on Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay Mica: 4 5 %
Titanium Dioxide: 19%
Iron Oxide: 3 5 %
Density: 2.0-4.0 gm/ml
Appearance: Intensely colored, black pearlescent powder
with a gold background
Bulk Density (Scott): 4-6 gm/cu in.
Particle Size: 90% less than 7 4 microns
Lead: 2 0 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 100 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
SPECTRA-PEARL BNG:
Colored inorganic pigments bonded to titanium dioxide
deposited on Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay Mica: 4 5 %
Titanium Dioxide: 19%
Iron Oxide: 3 5 %
Density: 2.0-4.0 gm/ml
Appearance: Intensely colored, brown pearlescent powder
with gold background
Bulk Density (Scott): 4-6 gm/cu in.
Particle Size: 90% less than 7 4 microns
Lead: 2 0 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 1 0 0 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
SPECTRA-PEARL MTW:
Colored inorganic pigments bonded to titanium dioxide
deposited on Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay Mica: 6 5 %
Titanium Dioxide: 2 5 %
Carmine: 10%
Density: 2.0-4.0 gm/ml
Appearance: Intensely colored, bright red pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 4-6 gm/cu in.
Particle Size: 90% less than 7 4 microns
Lead: 2 0 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 100 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
836 Cosmetics Additives

VAN DYK: SPECTRA-PEARL MTG:

Colored inorganic pigments bonded to titanium dioxide
deposited on Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay Mica: 6 5 %
Titanium Dioxide: 2 5 %
Carmine: 10%
Density: 2.0-4.0 gm/ml
Appearance: Intensely colored, bright red pearlescent powder
with a gold background
Bulk Density (Scott): 4-6 gm/cu in.
Particle Size: 90% less than 74 microns
Lead: 2 0 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 100 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
SPECTRA-PEARL RDW:
Colored inorganic pigments bonded to titanium dioxide
deposited on Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay Mica: 45%
Titanium Dioxide: 20%
Iron Oxide: 35%
Density: 2.0-4.0 gm/rnl
Appearance: Intensely colored, red pearlescent powder
Bulk Density (Scott): 4-6 gm/cu in.
Particle Size: 90% less than 74 microns
Lead: 20 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 100 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
SPECTRA-PEARL RDG:
Colored inorganic pigments bonded to titanium dioxide
deposited on Mica.
Typical Analysis:
Assay Mica: 45%
Titanium Dioxide: 2 0 %
Iron Oxide: 35%
Density: 2.0-4.0 gm/ml
Appearance: Intensely colored, red pearlescent powder
with a gold background
Bulk Density (Scott): 4-6 gm/cu in.
Particle Size: 90% less than 7 4 microns
Lead: 2 0 ppm Maximum
Arsenic: 3 ppm Maximum
Mercury: 1 ppm Maximum
Microbiological: Total Count: 100 colonies/gram, Maximum
Pathogens: Negative
 Waitaki International Biosciences 837

WAITAKI INTERNATIONAL BIOSCIENCES: The Cosmetic Industry:

Bone Calcium Supplement:
Potential Use: Natural source of calcium and phosphorus
Source: Bovine Bone
Isolated from bones of government inspected cattle
Description: Off-white powder
Loss on Drying: NMT 4.0%
Residue on Ignition: NMT 68.0%
Fat: NMT 6.0% (Soxhlet/Hexane)
Total Nitrogen: NLT 3.0%
Calcium: NLT 21 .O%
Bone Marrow Extract:
Potential Use: Mixture of key components
Source: Bovine Narrow
Isolated frm marrow of government inspected animals
Description: Grey powder
Loss on Drying: NMT 5%
Residue on Ignition: NMT 1 4 %
Fat: NMT 10% (Soxhlet/Hexane)
Protein: NLT 70%
Microbial Total Aerobic Plate count: NMT 1OOO/g
Bovine Serum Albumin (BSA)--pH 5.2:
Potential Use: Enhance penetration of fatty acids for health-
ier cells and smoother skin.
Source: Bovine Plasma
Isolated from plasma of government inspected cattle,
by modification of the Cohn fractionation process
Description: Off-white to pale green/yellow lyophilized
powder
Solubility: Readily soluble at 7 % in water
pH ( 2 % in water): 5 . 2 + 0 . 5
Loss on Drying: NMT 5 . 0 %
Residue on Ignition: NMT 2.0%
Heavy Metals: NMT 50 ppm
Protein Content: NLT 97% db
Purity: NLT 98% (cellulose acetate electrophoresis)
Bovine Serum Albumin--pH 7.0:
Potential Use: Enhance penetration of fatty acids for
healthier cells and smoother skin
Source: Bovine Plasma
Isolated from plasma of government inspected cattle,
by modification of the Cohn fractionation process
Description: Off-white to pale greedyellow lyophilized
powder
Solubility: Readily soluble at 7% in water
pH ( 2 % in water): 7.0t0.5
Loss on Drying: NMT 5.0%
Residue on Ignition: NMT 2.0%
Heavy Metals: NMT 5 0 ppm
Protein: NLT 97% db
Purity: NLT 98% (cellulose acetate electrophoresis)
838 Cosmetics Additives

WAITIKI INTERNATIONAL BIOSCIENCES: The Cosmetic Industry

(Continued):
Bovine Serum Albumin--pH 7.0:
Potential Use: Enhance penetration of fatty acids for health-
ier cells and smoother skin.
Source: Bovine Plasma
Isolated from the plasma of government inspected
cattle, by ion exchange chromatography
Description: Off-white to pale green/yellow lyophilised
powder (Caprylate free)
Solubility: Readily soluble at 7% in water
pH (2% in water): 7.0i0.5
Loss on drying: NMT 5.0%
Residue on ignition: NMT 3.0%
Protein: NLT 96.0%
Purity: NLT 98.0% (Cellulose acetate electrophoresis)

Bovine Serum Albumin, Fatty Acid Free:

Potential Use: Enhance penetration of fatty acids for
healthier cells and smoother skin.
Source: Bovine Plasma
Isolated from plasma of government inspected
cattle, by ion exchange chromatography
Description: Off-white to pale green/yellow lyophilised
powder (Caprylate free)
Solubility: Readily soluble at 7% in water
pH (2% in water): 7.0t0.5
Loss on drying: NMT 5.0%
Residue on ignition: NMT 3.0%
Protein: NLT 96.0%
Purity: NLT 98.0% (Cellulose acetate electrophoresis)
Free Fatty Acid: NMT 0.01%

Bovine Serum Albumin, pH 7.0, Fatty Acid Reduced:

Potential Use: Enhance penetration of fatty acids for
healthier cells and smoother skin.
Source: Bovine Plasma
Isolated from plasma of government inspected cattle,
by modification of the Cohn fractionation process
Description: Off-white to pale green/yellow lyophilized
powder
Solubility: Readily soluble at 7% in water
pil ( 2 % in water): 7.0i0.5
Loss on Drying: NMT 5.0%
Residue on Ignition: NMT 2.0%
Heavy Metals: NMT 50 ppm
Protein: NLT 97% db
Purity: NLT 98% (Cellulose acetate electrophoresis)
Free Fatty Acids: NMT 0.35%
 Waitaki International Biosciences 839

WAITAKI INTERNATIONAL BIOSCIENCES: The Cosmetic Industry

(Continued):
Bovine Serum Albumin (BSA)--30% Solution:
Potential Use: Enhance penetration of fatty acids for
healthier cells and smoother skin.
Source: Bovine Plasma
Isolated from plasma of government inspected cattle
Description: An amber or green solution (containing 0.12 M
sodium chloride; may contain 0.1% Sodium Azide
as preservative)
pH: 7.2+0.1
Protein: 3 0 % t l % (w/v)
Purity: NLT 98% (Cellulose acetate electrophoresis)

Collagen Protein Hydrolysate:

Potential Use: Positively charged collagen hydrolysate
for better absorption. No need for quaterniz-
ation. Superior to hide or bone hydrolysate.
Source: Porcine Collagen
Prepared from skin of gevernment inspected hogs
Description: A light amber powder
Typical Analysis:
Loss on Drying: 4 %
Residue on Ignition: 2.5%
pH: 5.2
Solubility: Soluble in water
Protein: 92%
Microbial:
Total Aerobic Plate Count: NMT 500/g
Tested for the Presence of: Coliform--Not detected
Salmonella--Not detected

CPR 110:
Potential Use: Potential to increase the respiration of
cells and stimulate healthy regenerative
functions, especially under conditions of
stress to the skin.
Source: Bovine Liver
Isolated from liver of government inspected cattle
Description: A low molecular weight, light yellow to beige,
hygroscopic powder
Solubility: Soluble in water
Typical Analysis:
Loss on Drying: NMT 5.0%
Activity: Oxygen consumption NLT 100% increase compared
to liver homogenate control
Microbial:
Total Aerobic Plate Count: NMT 1OO/g
Tested for the Presence of: E. coli--Not detected
P. aeruginosa--Not detected
Salmonella--Not detected
840 Cosmetics Additives

WAITAKI INTERNATIONAL BIOSCIENCES: The Cosmetic Industry

(Continued):
Fetuin--Pedersen:
Potential Use: Concentrated mixture of growth factors
Source: Fetal Serum
Isolated from fetal bovine serum of government
inspected animals
Description: Off-white lyophilized powder
Loss on Drying: NMT 5%
Residue on Ignition: NMT 3 %
Protein: NLT 80%

Fibronectin--Bovine:
Potential Use: Normal component of young, healthy skin.
Needed to anchor basal cells for proper
function and growth.
Source: Bovine Plasma
Isolated from plasma of government inspected cattle
Description: A clear, essentially colourless solution con-
taining buffer salts, urea and Fibronectin.
Fibronectin Concentration: NLT 2.0 mg of Fibronectin/ml in
phosphate buffered saline (pH 7.2) containing
2M urea. Concentrations based on an E 1%/280 =
12.8
% of Total Protein as Fibronectin: NLT 90% based on FPLC
(Gel filtration)
Purity: A single doublet band of approx. 220,000 Dalton
molecular mass is evident using SDS-PAGE

Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Salt:

Potential Use: Wrinkle smoothing agent, natural component
of skin, moisturizer
Source: Avian Comb
Isolated from combs of government inspected chickens
Description: White to slightly off-white powder
Clarity (0.1% solution): Essentially clear in aqueous solution
Purity: NLT 80% Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Salt (Carbazole
reaction)
Protein: NMT 1.0% (Lowry)
Molecular Weight: NLT 1,000,000 Daltons (Viscometric)
Reference:
Cleland and Wang, Biopolymers Vol. 9,
799 (1970)
 Waitaki International Biosciences 84 1

WAITAKI INTERNATIONAL BIOSCIENCES: The Cosmetic Industry

(Continued):
Kallikrein:
Potential Use: Maintains blood flow to skin cells, and
thus a steady flow of nutrients for healthy
skin.
Source: Porcine Pancreas
Isolated from pancreas of government inspected hogs
Description: Beige to off-white crystalline powder
pH: 6.5+1 .O
Loss On Drying: NMT 3.0%
Residue on Ignition: NMT 5.0%
Heavy Metals: NMT 2 0 ppm
Arsenic: NMT 2 ppm
Fat: NMT 0.5%
Assay: 100 I.U./mg db

Linoleic Acid, 96%:

Potential Use: Essential fatty acid
Source: Safflower Oil
Description: A yellow oily liquid.
(May contain 0.01% BHT as antioxidant)
Linoleic Acid: NLT 96%
Oleic Acid: NMT 3 %
Saturated Fatty Acids: NMT 1%

Neural Lipid Extract:

Potential Use: Natural moisturizer
Source: Bovine Neural Tissue
Isolated from neural tissue of government inspected
cattle
Description: Off-white to cream coloured powder
Loss on Drying: NMT 5 %
Protein: NMT 2.0% (Lowry)
Neutral Glycosphingolipids: 2 0 5 5 %
Microbial:
Total Aerobic Plate Count: NMT lOOO/g
Yeast & Mold: NMT 1OO/g
Tested for Presence of: Coliforms--Not detected
Staphylococci--Not detected
Higher concentrations available upon request
842 Cosmetics Additives

WAITAKI INTERNATIONAL BIOSCIENCES: The Cosmetic Industry

(Continued):
Trachea Hydrolysate:
Potential Use: Contains two important components of skin
(collagen & glycosaminoglycans).
Source: Bovine Trachea
Isolated from the trachea of government inspected
cattle
Description: Pale beige, granular powder
pH: 4 . 5 k 0 . 5
Loss on Drying: NMT 10%
Residue on Ignition: NMT 3.0%
Heavy Metals: NMT 20 ppm
Fat: NMT 0.5% (Soxhlet)
Nitrogen: 1 1 -1 4 %
Microbial:
Total Aerobic Plate Count: NMT 1 O O / g
Tested for the Presence of: E. coli--Not detected
P. aeruginosa--Not detected
S. aureus--Not detected
Enterococci--Not detected
Salmonella--Not detected

Transferrin, Bovine (Apo):

Essentially Iron Free
Potential Use: Necessary universal nutrient for skin cells.
Source: Bovine Plasma
Isolated from plasma of government inspected cattle
Description: Off-white lyophilized powder
Solubility: Readily soluble at 1 % in water
pH ( 1 % solution): 4.5k0.5
Loss on Drying: NMT 5 %
Residue on Ignition: NMT 2.0%
Iron: NMT 5 0 ppm
Protein: NLT 9 5 % db
Purity: NLT 9 8 %
Transferrin, Bovine (Holo):
Essentially Iron Saturated
Potential Use: Necessary universal nutrient for skin cells
Source: Bovine Plasma
Isolated from plasma of government inspected cattle
Description: Reddish, lyophilized powder
Solubility: Readily soluble at 1 % in water
pH ( 1 % solution): 7 . 0 k 0 . 5
Loss on Drying: NMT 5 %
Residue on Ignition: NMT 2.0%
Iron: NLT 1,000 ppm
Protein: NLT 9 5 % db
Purity: NLT 9 8 %
 Waitaki International Biosciences 843

WAITAKI INTERNATIONAL BIOSCIENCES: Neutral Lipids: Typical

Chemical Profile:
Concentrate NLC:
Neutral glycosphingolipids: 4 0 + 5 %
Ethanolamine phospholipids: 2 0 + 5 %
Serine phospholipids: 1 2 . 5 + 2 . 5 %
Choline phospholipids: 1 0 + 5 %
Sphingomyelin: 7 . 5 + 2 . 5 %
Cholesterol: 2 + 1 %
Sulphatides: 2 + 1 %

Extract NLE:
Neutral glycosphingolipids: 2 0 + 5 %
Ethanolamine phospholipids: 1 5 + 5 %
Serine phospholipids: 1 2 . 5 + 2 . 5 %
Choline phospholipids: 1 0 + 5 %
Sphingomyelin: 7 . 5 + 2 . 5 %
Cholesterol: 5 + 2 %
Sulphatides: 5 * 2 %

Phosphatide NLP:
Neutral glycosphingolipids: 2 0 + 5 %
Ethanolamine phospholipids: 2 0 + 5 %
Serine phospholipids: 7 + 3 %
Choline phospholipids: 2 0 + 5 %
Sphingomyelin: 5 + 2 %
Cholesterol: 2 + 1 %
Sulphatides: 2 + 1 %
Inositolphospholipids: 1 0 + 3 %
844 Cosmetics Additives

WITCO: Surfactants for Cosmetics and Toiletries:

Surfactant:
EMCOL 4161L:
CTFA Adopted Name: Disodium Oleamido-MIPA-Sulfosuccinate
EMCOL 4100M:
CTFA Adopted Name: Disodium Myristamido MEA-Sulfosuccinate
EMCOL 4400-1 :
CTFA Adopted Name: Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate
EMCOL 4300:
CTFA AdoDted Name: Disodium Pareth-3 Sulfosuccinate
Typical Appiications:
Foaming agents for mild skin cleansers, creme shampoos and
bubble baths
EMCOL 4072:
CTFA Adopted Name: Disodium Hydrogenated Cottonseed Glycer-
ide Sulfosuccinate
Typical Applications:
Anionic coemulsifier for mild, acid-pH creams and lotions.
EMCOL CC-42:
CTFA Adopted Name: PPG-40 Diethylmonium Chloride
EMCOL CC-9:
CTFA Adopted Name: PPG-9 Diethylmonium Chloride
Typical Applications:
Antistats, dispersants and conditioners.
EMCOL CC37-18:
CTFA Adopted Name: Coco-Betaine
Foaming agent; foam stabilizer; viscosity modifier for
cationic, anionic or nonionic formulations.
EMCOL E-607L:
CTFA Adopted Name: Lapyrium Chloride
Mild cationic emulsifier; detergent.
EMCOL E-607s:
CTFA Adopted Name: Steapyrium Chloride
Mild cationic emulsifier; hair conditioner; skin conditioner
for after-shaves and alcoholic lotions.
EMPHOS PS-810:
CTFA Adopted Name: Oleth-3 Phosphate
Antistat; conditioner; emulsifier; lubricant; wetting agent;
dispersant.
 Witco 845

WITCO: Surfactants for Cosmetics and Toiletries(Continued):

- -
Surfactant:
EMPHOS ~27-as:
CTFA Adopted Name: Sodium Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides
Phosphate
EMPHOS D70-30C:
CTFA Adopted Name: Sodium Glyceryl Oleate Phosphate
Water-in-oil emulsifiers; moisture barriers; dispersants;
antistats and conditioners; gelling agents.
EMPHOS CS-1361
CTFA Adopted Name: Sodium Nonoxynol-6 Phosphate
Antistat and emulsifier for microemulsions.
WITCAMIDE 61:
CTFA Adopted Name: Oleamide MIPA
Viscosity modifier; hair conditioner.
WITCAMIDE 70:
CTFA Adopted Name: Stearamide MEA
WITCAMIDE MAS:
CTFA Adopted Name: Stearamide MEA Stearate
Gellants; opacifiers; viscosity modifiers in cream shampoos,
stick-type antiperspirants and specialty makeup products.
WITCAMIDE 51 1 C:
CTFA Adopted Name: Oleamide DEA
Water-in-oil emulsifier for creams and lotions; coupling
agent for oil-based systems.
WITCAMIDE 82:
CTFA Adopted Name: Cocamide DEA
WITCAMIDE 51 30:
CTFA Adopted Name: Cocamide DEA
WITCAMIDE 51 33:
CTFA Adopted Name: Cocamide DEA
WITCAMIDE 51 95:
CTFA Adopted Name: Lauramide DEA
WITCAMIDE MEAC:
CTFA Adopted Name: Cocamide MEA
Foam stabilizers; viscosity modifiers; conditioners in
shampoos and bath products.
WITCOLATE AE-3:
CTFA Adopted Name: Ammonium Pareth-25-3 Sulfate
WITCOLATE SE-5:
CTFA Adopted Name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Primary foaming agents and detergents for shampoos, bath gels
and shower gels.
846 Cosmetics Additives

WITCO: Surfactants for Cosmetics and Toiletries(C0ntinued):

Surfactant:
WITCOLATE 60T:
CTFA Adopted Name: TEA-Dodecylbenzene Sulfonate
Foaming agent and detergent for shampoos and bath products.
WITCONATE AOS:
CTFA Adopted Name: Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
Base for liquid detergent shampoo and bubble base formulations
WITCONOL APEB:
CTFA Adopted Name: PPG-26-Buteth-26
Low-foaming, acid-stable emulsifier; lubricant; spreading and
penetrating agent.
WITCONOL APM:
CTFA AdoDted Name: PPG-3 Mvristvl Ether
WITCONOL APi :
CTFA Adopted Name: PPG-11 Stearyl Ether
Emollients for creams, lotions and cosmetic gels; acid-stable
coupling agents.
WITCONOL 14:
CTFA Adopted Name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate
WITCONOL 18L:
CTFA Adopted Name: Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
Water-in-oil emulsifiers; lubricants; antifoaming agents;
antistats.
WITCONOL 18F:
CTFA Adopted Name: Polyglyceryl-4 Stearate
Oil-in-water emulsifier; thickener; foaming agent.
WITCONOL CD-17 :
CTFA Adopted Name: PPG-34
WITCONOL CD-18:
CTFA Adopted Name: PPG-27 Glyceryl Ether
WITCONOL PPG-400:
CTFA Adopted Name: PPG-9
Emollients for bath oils, hair preparations, toners,
cleansers.
WITCONOL F26-46:
CTFA Adopted Name: PPG-36 Oleate
Emollient; spreading and coupling agent.
 Witco 847

WITCO: Surfactants for Cosmetics and Toiletries(C0ntinued):

_--
Surfactant:
WITCONOL H-31A:
CTFA Adopted Name: PEG-8 Oleate
WITCONOL H-35A:
CTFA Adopted Name: PEG-8 Stearate
Oil-in-water emulsifiers and spreading agents for creams,
lotions and bath oils.
WITCONOL L32-45:
CTFA Adopted Name: PEG-150 Distearate
Thickener; emulsion stabilizer.
WITCONOL MST:
CTFA Adopted Name: Glyceryl Stearate
Emulsifier; lubricant; stabilizer
WITCONOL RHT:
CTFA Adopted Name: Glyceryl Stearate SE
Emulsifier; stabilizer.
848 Cosmetics Additives

ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ: Basic Material for Cosmetic Industry:

Fatty Alcohol Sulfates:
SULFETAL Cjot 38:
Basic material for the formulation of hair shampoos, bath
preparations, and liquid cleaning agents
Chemical composition: Fatty alcohol sulfate (C12-Cl4)
neutralized with mono-isopropanolamine
CTFA adopted name: MIPA-Lauryl Sulfate
CAS NO.: 211 42-28-9
Aspect: clear, straw coloured, viscous liquid
Ionic character: anionic
Typical Data:
Active ingredient: 38%
Water content: 62%
pH (10%): 6.5-7.0
Viscosity (20C): 5000-10000 mPa-s
Density (20C): 1.02 g/cm3
Cloud point: approx. 8C
free of inorganic salts
Application:
SULFETAL Cjot 38 is an anionic, surface-active basic material
for the formulation of liquid hair shampoos, foam baths, as
well as cleaning agents.
SULFETAL Cjot 38 can be combined with anionic, nonionic and
amphoteric surfactants.
SULFETAL CJOT 38 produces a creamy and stable lather.

SULFETAL KT 400:
Basic material for the formulation of hair shampoos
Chemical composition: Triethanolamine salt of a fatty
alcohol sulfate
CTFA adopted name: TEA-Lauryl Sulfate
CAS-NO.: 139-96-8
Aspect: clear, colourless to straw-coloured liquid
Ionic character: anionic
Typical data:
Active ingredient: 40%
Unsulfated matter: max. 2%
Colour value: max. 5
pH (10%): 7.0-7.5
Density (20C): 1.05 g/cm3
Cloud point: approx. +5C
Application:
SULFETAL KT 400 can be combined with anionic and non-ionic
surfactants and is primarily used in hair shampoos.
It is resistant to water hardness and has good foaming
properties even at low temperatures.