Portugal 2021
Portugal 2021
In a small country, which is the 109th in the world in land area, Portugal contains 14
wine regions producing unique and distinct wines. From hot and dry to humid and
cold climates, Portugal manages to produce many different styles of wines. To travel
through this country is to be surrounded by unforgettable landscapes, to be delighted
by its rich cuisine and to be embraced by the warmth of the Portuguese people while
enjoying their great wines. Those who visit our country and our wine producers never
forget the experience. We invite you to explore our World of diversity.
Frederico Falcão
ViniPortugal’s Chairman of the Board
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PORTUGAL
Located in the Southwest corner of Europe, with just over 92,000 square kilometres, Portugal is a THE FIRST DESIGNATED WINE REGION
peaceful country of great natural beauty, offering visitors an unexpected quality and diversity of
experiences. Douro Wine was the world’s first designated and regulated wine region by 1756. Today, it is also a
From the beaches of the Algarve to the breath-taking mountains of the north, Portugal is a land of UNESCO world heritage site acknowledging its long tradition of viticulture and its landscape of
contrasts. In between lie verdant floodplains, rolling plains and cork forests. The east is dry with a outstanding beauty.
continental climate, the west is milder with an ocean-influence and is greener, especially the lush
northwest. Today, the country is linked and united as never before by a network of new roads – just
one sign of the prosperity that has spread across Portugal since the late 1980’s.
THE WINE REVOLUTION
Here, the most beautiful and ancient historical monuments live in harmony with major contemporary
architectural projects. Secular traditions go hand in hand with the latest technological innovations
With the financial support of the World Bank, the Douro Valley was reorganised, to be followed
and the enthusiastic use of all that is new and original. The beauty and tranquillity of nature in its
by other regions, and a new appellation system was introduced for regional and quality wines.
pure state do not silence the city bustle or the more contagious and cosmopolitan nightlife.
Thanks to extensive EU subsidies in the 90’s, huge investment was possible in both vineyards and
Though tradition still lies at Portugal’s heart. Families spend time together, particularly during meal
wineries - resulting in a revolutionary improvement in wine quality. Many private estates began to
times. Friends enjoy festivals, dancing, fado music, café culture and eating out.
build facilities to make and bottle their own wines, rather than delivering their grapes or wines to
With family, friends, or simply alone, there is a smile awaiting us in every corner of Portugal as well
co-operatives or large wine companies.
as the certainty of finding a plentiful table dominated by a varied and creative cuisine. The richness
For centuries, sons have followed fathers into the family wine business, and have thereby maintained
and diversity of Portuguese wines has added a new and unexpected dimension. Food and wine
family traditions and customs. Today, new generations are still taking over family businesses, and
are fundamental. The occasional modern restaurant apart, tradition rules: hearty portions of local
benefiting from the experience of their predecessors. The difference is that this new generation of
dishes, meat, hams and sausages, seasonal game, an abundance of fish and seafood, the beloved salt
winemakers is highly trained, and enjoys a new professional status within the Portuguese wine
cod (bacalhau), copious bread, rice and potatoes. Dessert is obligatory –1001 delightful combinations
trade. The schools Instituto Superior de Agronomia - ISA, in Lisbon, and the Universidade de Vila Real,
of egg yolks with sugar: lots of sugar.
in Vila Real, were the main responsibles for the trainning of this new generation of winemakers. These
Always present, and always different, depending on the dish or occasion, wine intensifies and helps
schools changed mentalities, introduced new technics and technologies throughout the country,
discovering new flavours, making every meal a truly unforgettable moment. Portugal’s winemakers
accelerating the modernization of traditional wine regions or even contributing the development
have been conservative in one respect – keeping faith with their grapes. And no wonder! Portugal’s
of new wine regions. This new generation of grape-growers and winemakers considers itself to be
varieties are unique, with thrillingly different flavours. Yet quality-wise there has been no resting
guardian of a valuable and unique treasure: the plethora of indigenous grape varieties that makes
on traditional laurels. A quarter-century of investment, education, open-mindedness and flair has
Portuguese wines so distinctive.
meant explosive change. Choice has multiplied too. Alongside the co-ops and large companies,
a myriad of estates now make their own distinctive wines. Portugal truly offers a new dimension to
the senses. We invite you to share unique moments and to take pleasure in your discovery.
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VINHO VERDE TRÁS-OS-MONTES
Geographical VINHO VERDE
MINHO
DOC
IG
TRÁS-OS-MONTES
TRANSMONTANO
DOC
IG
Indications
& DOCs
PORTO E DOURO
DOURO DOC
PORTO DOC
DURIENSE IG
DÃO
LAFÕES DOC
DÃO DOC
INDIGENOUS GRAPE VARIETIES TERRAS DO DÃO IG
TÁVORA E VAROSA
TÁVORA-VAROSA D O C
No other country has a range of indigenous grape varieties to match Portugal’s. This huge palette of BAIRRADA TERRAS DE CISTER I G
different grapes was introduced to Portugal over a long and exciting history of wine-making, traced by BAIRRADA DOC
BEIRA ATLÂNTICO IG
archaeologists back to the Bronze Age. Tartessians, Phoenicians, Romans, all left their winemaking mark
here. And centuries of isolation then prevented further exchange with other wine producing countries BEIRA INTERIOR
LISBOA BEIRA INTERIOR DOC
such as Spain and France. So Portuguese growers concentrated on the fine flavours to be found in their
SPA I N
ENCOSTAS D’AIRE DOC TERRAS DA BEIRA IG
ÓBIDOS DOC
own grape varieties.
ALENQUER DOC
ARRUDA DOC
The spectrum of characterful, top-quality grapes is impressive: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, TORRES VEDRAS DOC ALENTEJO
LOURINHÃ DOC ALENTEJO DOC
Trincadeira, Aragonez, Baga, Castelão, Alvarinho, Arinto, Fernão Pires, Encruzado and many others, BUCELAS DOC ALENTEJANO IG
responsible for the incomparable character of Portuguese wines. While much of the wine world CARCAVELOS DOC
COLARES DOC
concentrates on Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, in Portugal wine-lovers can enjoy a distinctive LISBOA IG
and impressive array of different flavours. Portugal has in excess of 250 indigenous grapes, only a few ALGARVE
LAGOS DOC
of which have travelled (in a very small way) anywhere else in the world. They don’t know what they’re TEJO PORTIMÃO DOC
missing! DOTEJO DOC LAGOA DOC
TEJO IG
TAVIRA DOC
ALGARVE IG
PENÍNSULA DE SETÚBAL
PALMELA DOC
SETÚBAL DOC
PENÍNSULA DE SETÚBAL IG Location:
EUROPE, Iberian Península
Country Size: 92 391 km 2
Sea zone size: 1 727 408 km 2
Coastline: 1794 km
AÇORES
GRACIOSA DOC
Borders: 1214 km with Spain
BISCOITOS DOC Population: 10,5 million
PICO DOC Vineyards: 190 322 Ha
AÇORES IG Wine Production: 6.1 million HL
Native grapes: +250
MADEIRA
MADEIRA DOC
MADEIRENSE DOC
TERRAS MADEIRENSES IG
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PORTUGUESE
GRAPE VARIETIES
RUI FALCÃO*
Portugal enjoys an impressive number of grape varieties that exist nowhere else in the world. Whilst we mention these single Portuguese varieties generically, the truth is that the tradition
Not even Italy can surpass it when considering the natural variability of each species and about of Portuguese wines is based more on a combination of grape varieties than in the production
the small genetic differences within each variety Varieties that give unique flavours to Portuguese of a single variety wines. There will always be exceptions to the rule and the most
wines, lending them the character and uniqueness that distinguishes and highlights them among noteworthy is found in Bairrada, with its single variety wines made from the Baga grape
a multitude of indistinct wines produced by dozens of countries all over the world. variety that once represented a near monopoly in the region’s red vine varieties. Another notable
example comes from the region of Monção / Melgaço in the Vinho Verde region, with its single
While the French varieties and, to a lesser degree, varieties from Italy, Germany and Spain have variety wines made from the Alvarinho grape variety that is rarely combined with any other grape
spread throughout the world, the Portuguese grape varieties have remained isolated and restricted variety from the region. An exception is made when the winemaker wants to create a wine with
to the national territory. Celebrity grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir, light and fresh flavours. In this instance the Alvarnho is blended with the Trajadura variety.
Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Riesling or Tempranillo are widely grown
across many wine-producing countries. Therefore, most Portuguese wines are made as a blend, mixing several national grape varieties
to produce the desired taste profile. In some regions the winemaker will blend, more than twenty
Even in Portugal, there are few varieties known by their names, beyond the Alvarinho, Baga varieties to achieve the correct balance and in one national wine’s extreme case, 206 varieties
and Touriga Nacional trio. There is little recognition amongst more than 250 indigenous grape have been used to create a single white wine. Using the art of blending, Portuguese wines aim to
varieties officially registered, with names as exotic as Esgana Cão (Dog Strangler), Amor-não-me- complement the best characteristics that each variety can provide in a single wine. While some
-deixes (Love-don’t-leave-me), Carrega Burros (Donkey Loader), Cornifesto, Dedo de Dama (Lady’s varieties may add delicate fruit flavours, others may add more ripe flavours, increase freshness,
Finger), Dona Joaquina, Pé Comprido (Long Foot) or Zé do Telheiro. In the vineyard, as in life, not or add more body and roundness to the finish. Thus creating a wine in which the whole is better
all grape varieties are equal and not all regions enjoy the same fortune. Among all the homeland’s and greater than the sum of each individual parcel. Something that could only be achieved with the
DOs, two in particular can be proud of benefitting from unparalleled recognition. The Douro and amount and diversity of Portuguese grape varieties, so well adapted to the incredible diversity of
Vinho Verde regions possess a large group of quality and unique grape varieties. The Douro grape Portugal’s soils and climates. For example, in the Minho region it can rain almost every day when
varieties are now widely known and valued by a legion of dedicated oenophiles, with references on the left bank of Alentejo’s Guadiana River or in parts of the Douro Superior, many months may
such as Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinto Cão, Tinta Barroca, Sousão, Tinta pass without a drop of rain. Bairrada and Colares suffer from an extreme Atlantic Ocean influence,
Francisca, Gouveio, Rabigato, Viosinho and Códega do Larinho. In the Vinho Verde region names with rainy and cool climates. Alentejo and Dão live under a climatic influence that can vary between
remain poorly known, with little awareness beyond the usual trio of Alvarinho, Loureiro and Mediterranean and continental, with significant temperature variances between summer and
Trajadura. winter, and between day and night. That is why, Portuguese grape varieties are so different in every
part of the country, they are required to adapt to the geographic and climatic conditions of each
Amongst the many Portuguese top quality grape varieties there are those that show a more marked region, a process completed through centuries of slow but profound modification. And that is the
personality. Ten varieties that alone or as part of a blend magnify the reputation of Portugal, reason why Portuguese wines are so different and so special, standing out amongst a multitude of
making their mark as national natural wine insignias. Four white grape varieties and six red undifferentiated wines.
varieties deserve a special mention due to their qualitative consistency and self-expression,
Alvarinho, Arinto (Pedernã), Encruzado and Fernão Pires (Maria Gomes) are the white varieties.
Baga, Castelão, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira (Tinta Amarela) and Tinta Roriz
(Aragonez) are the red varieties.
*Wine writer, author, educator and jury of renowned international competitions.
12 13
PORTUGUESE GRAPES
A TREASURE TROVE
WHITE GRAPES
WHITE GRAPES
14 15
PORTUGUESE GRAPES
A TREASURE TROVE
RED GRAPES
1 2 3 4 5 6
RED GRAPES
16 17
THE STRENGTH OF THE BLEND
JOSÉ JOÃO SANTOS*
If it is true that globalisation has enabled the shortening of barriers and distances whilst facilitating
knowledge and experience transmission, among many other virtues. It is no less true that each of us is
more receptive to learn and experience something that escapes the stereotypes. And wine is no exception.
The world wine consumer is stereotyped by something similar to an established taste, which has been
created with particular insistence over the past 20 years or so. With the emergence of new producing
countries, the dissemination of grape varieties of French origin proved to be rampant, yielding relatively
similar wines made almost always from just one grape variety. With the topic of terroir pushed to the
background, many organisations have focussed on selling varietal wines and using the grape type as the
most compelling reason for the consumer to purchase the wine.
The more attentive oenophiles and consumers began to memorise the names of French grape varieties,
considered “international” due to their prevalence across wine-producing countries. It was, in terms of
marketing, a well conceived strategy and exceptionally promoted as evidenced by the huge success of
most of the so called “New World” wine countries in multiple markets including, imagine (!), the traditional
European ones.
The praising of a certain style and taste also led to the majority of wines available in the market being
compartmentalized into two main classes: easy drinking white wines and red wines full of structure,
colour and appealing fruit with a noticeable amount of oak ageing. Major international publications did
not get tired of commending these wines, scoring them generously and thus encouraging the global
wine industry to insist on these taste profiles and directing consumers towards a pre-defined style. But is
the average wine consumer, and are we each obliged to conform to this way of drinking? For those who
believe that drinking a wine is not the same as enjoying a soft drink or as uniform as tasting the oak
ageing, there is another way. Full of differentiating options, equally tempting and, so much better, at a fair
price.
These alternatives are boutique wines, in some cases, of small, medium and even substantial production.
They are available in dozens of markets around the world and have had much of the worlds’ wine critics
surrendering to the excellent quality and differentiation that is intrinsic to them. These are wines that
express a small but diverse territory, combining ancient wisdom with the latest scientific and technical
knowledge. And above all, these are wines that are born from an unusual and unique heritage of more
than 250 indigenous varieties, an enormous genetic heritage of unique Vitis Vinifera varieties united in a
single country. Yes, in Portugal you may also find Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Merlot, among other “international” grape varieties.
18 19
But they represent a very small percentage of the planted vineyards and are used almost always
as salt and pepper. Portuguese wines are, in essence, the value of their indigenous grape varieties like
Alvarinho, Encruzado, Baga and Touriga Nacional, to mention a few. These are grape varieties that make
unique wines, outside the mainstream and for that reason are particularly exciting.
Portugal’s wine heritage has another peculiarity in that it rarely expresses a single grape variety on its
own. With few exceptions (such as Alvarinho and Encruzado, in the whites, and Touriga Nacional and
Baga, in the reds), the strength of Portuguese wines is the blend. The art of making the final blend of a
wine based on two, three, four and sometimes tens of different grape varieties! If in the past, the mixing of
grape varieties in the vines almost always dictated the final blend, nowadays advances in viticulture, with
compartmentalized grafting, allow the assessment of each grape variety’s value. Leaving the winemaker
in the comfort of the winery, to master the art of blending.
And there are many examples of successful combinations: the blend Arinto / Fernão Pires in white wines,
is already a classic in regions like Bairrada, the Beiras, Lisbon or Tejo. Taking advantage of the Arinto grape to
bring freshness and longevity and Fernão Pires , the most widely planted white grape variety in Portugal,
to aromatically enrich the blend. We can also mention the combination Trincadeira / Aragonez, usual in the
Alentejo and expressed in one of the icon wines of that region, the Pêra Manca red. The first grape variety
bringing a depth of colour, floral nuances and a great aptitude for ageing, while the Aragonez contributes
with red fruit flavours, spicy notes and an elegant finish. We could also point out another blend of grapes
with proven results and recurrent in the Douro. This wine blends Touriga Nacional, bringing violet
floral notes, good balance and ageing potential with Touriga Franca, a grape full of colour, fruit flavours
and well defined tannins. The resultant blend produces full bodied but simultaneously elegant wines,
the blend of Barca Velha and other Douro’s Super Premium wines is largely based on this combination.
But Portuguese grape varieties can also be blended with international varieties. If the former provides the
structure and profile of the blend, the latter almost always act as salt and pepper of these wines, creating
nuances of flavour that result in a broader taste profile. Blends such as Arinto / Chardonnay, Aragonez /
Cabernet Sauvignon, and Touriga Nacional / Syrah are often used in wines that are designed to be
drunk when bottled and suitable for more informal occasions.
The vast range of available options allows one to choose a Portuguese wine for any occasion; for everyday
or for celebration and for any part of the meal, from appetisers to dessert. And acquiring a Portuguese
wine costs far less than the high satisfaction that you will most likely give to whom you will be offering
it to.
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EXAMPLES OF MORE
PORTUGUESE WINE BLENDS
VINHOS VERDES Loureiro and Trajadura PENÍNSULA DE SETÚBAL Castelão and Touriga Nacional
A classic combination of two white varieties wherein the structure and freshness of the Loureiro is Being the best known Portuguese region for the production of the famous Moscatel fortified wines,
softened by the finer notes of Trajadura, making wines that are perfect to be served with lighter foods it has yet another emblematic grape variety that produces wines of great longevity, comparable
or as an aperitif. to those made of Baga, in Bairrada. The robust character of the Castelão grape variety, known as
Periquita in Setúbal, can be softened with the balance and floral scent of Touriga Nacional.
DOURO Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Nacional
Three grape varieties that are skilfully blended in most of the Douro wines. Touriga Franca provides ALENTEJO AND ALGARVE Aragonez, Trincadeira and Alicante Bouschet
intense fine aromas, Tinta Roriz (also known as Aragonez in Alentejo) gives structure and aromatic This trio of grape varieties are commonly found within the Alentejo red blends. The Alicante Bouschet,
power and Touriga Nacional shapes the wine edges, making it more suitable for a variety of drinking of French origin has found a second home in Alentejo and has become its terroir of reference in
occasions and adding floral notes that integrate well with red wild fruit flavours of the other two Portugal. This grape produces wines that are concentrated in colour and structure, and have good
grape varieties. ageing potential. Aragonez produces full-bodied but elegant wines and Trincadeira delivers floral
notes and acidity. When skilfully blended, these are grape varieties that know how to get bring
BAIRRADA Cercial and Bical out the best in each other. Further south, the Algarve has learned how to emulate the Alentejo
Two of the most widely planted grape varieties, often used in white wines and also sparkling wines. experience and produces similar blends using these grape varieties.
Cercial is characterised by the delicate aromas and crisp acidity, while Bical has a more aromatically
rich profile that adds interest to the blend. MADEIRA AND AÇORES Malvasia Fina and Verdelho
Verdelho is a white grape variety that produces some of the best examples of Madeira wine and
DÃO Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro and Jaen it is also the main variety of the vines protected from the elements in “curraletas” (stone wall
These three grape varieties are the backbone of the great Dão red grape heritage. Touriga Nacional enclosures made of black volcanic rock) in the volcanic islands of the Azores. It produces wines that
needs no further introduction and Alfrocheiro is rich in colour and well balanced, counteracting the are wonderfully aromatic and well balanced. The addition of Malvasia Fina to the blend ensures that
moderate and fragrant character of the Jaen grape. the finished wine has moderate freshness and a more rounded taste.
LISBOA AND TEJO Arinto and Chardonnay, Touriga Nacional and Syrah
Lisboa and Tejo are two regions that consistently demonstrate how to perfectly combine the unique
power of Portuguese grape varieties with the recognized qualities of the international varieties. *Wine writer
In the first pair, the acidity and minerality of Arinto integrates well with the captivating richness of
the Chardonnay. In the second pair, Touriga Nacional brings a structure and depth of flavour that
softens Syrah’s intense notes of black pepper.
22 23
DOC REGIONS (OR DOP)
At the top level of the European wine hierarchy, Portugal has 31 DOCs/DOPs. At the moment, both
of these terms are used in Portugal, the traditional local ‘DOC’ (Denominação de Origem Controlada)
meaning Controlled Denomination of Origin, while the new pan-European ‘DOP’ (Denominação de
Origem Protegida) means Protected Denomination of Origin. Each of these regions has strictly defined
geographical boundaries. N.B. the numbers on the map only go up to 28 because three of the regions,
Douro and Port, Madeira and Madeirense, DOC Setúbal and DOC Palmela have the same ‘footprint’ and
are numbered together. DOC regulations also prescribe maximum grape yields, recommended and
permitted grape varieties and various other things, and all the wines have to be officially tasted,
tested and approved.
VINHO (WINE)
Vinhos (table wines) are Portugal’s simplest wines, subject to none of the rules stipulated for quality
or regional wines. Note however, that a very few critically acclaimed wines are labelled simply as
table wines. These tend to be from ambitious growers who have chosen to work outside the official
rules, and have deliberately classified their wine as table wine.
25
VINHO VERDE
DOC VINHO VERDE
VINHO REGIONAL MINHO
Across the vast expanse of northwest Portugal, a lush, green mantle flows from craggy mountain
peaks, blanketing hinterland valleys as it sweeps down to the sea.
From Melgaço to Vale de Cambra, from Esposende to the granite mountains at Basto by the border
with Trás-os-Montes, the land rises and falls. Here and there, towns and villages interrupt the
vegetation. This densely populated, fertile land is the birthplace of Vinho Verde.
From this unique region and its native grapes comes a unique white wine. Light, fresh, young and
delightfully aromatic, Vinho Verde suits all kinds of occasions: a sunny picnic, a restaurant meal or a
romantic date.
Vinho Verde is great with salads, fish, seafood, vegetable dishes, citrus sauces and sushi. Outside of
Portugal it is most common to see the white and the rose wines. Once you are within the country,
one can also try the red variety of Vinho Verde. Similar to the white, this red wine has a light and
fresh style that is best served chilled. It is a firm favourite with the locals in traditional restaurants, it
provides a perfect match for grilled sardines. Vinho Verde can also be found in a semi sparkling style.
Climate varies considerably across the Vinho Verde region, and this is reflected in the nine sub
regions, named after rivers or towns: Monção and Melgaço, Lima, Cávado, Ave, Basto, Sousa, Baião,
Paiva and Amarante. Local grapes vary too. Alvarinho wines (made from the delicately aromatic,
full-bodied Alvarinho grape) are a speciality of the sub-region Monção and Melgaço in the northern
part of the Vinho Verde Region. Rainfall here is lower, and in the summer the temperatures are
noticeably higher than in the rest of the region.
The Alvarinho grape in this microclimate gives a full-bodied dry wine with a complex, subtle, fresh
aroma reminiscent of apricots, peaches and citrus fruits. Combined with an appealing mineral
character.
26 27
MINHO
To the south of Monção and Melgaço are the sub-regions Lima, Cávado and Ave. Here the main grape
variety is the delicious Loureiro, Arinto and Trajadura are also commonly used. The wines here are ON THE MENU
typically fresh and aromatic, often with a scent of citrus and blossom. The hilly sub-regions of Basto
and Sousa also produce light wines from various grape varieties. In the sub-regions Amarante and
IN THE VINHO VERDE REGION
Baião, the Avesso grape gives crisp, dry white wines with rich flavours and a mineral character.
Caldo verde – a soup of finely sliced cabbage with chouriço
Amarante and Paiva, the latter south of the River Douro, have a reputation for their red wines.
Broa de milho – a chunky corn bread
Lampreia – lamprey, in season in spring, an eel-like river fish
Cabrito – goat often roasted in a wood-fired oven
Light, fresh, young and delightfully aromatic, Vinho Verde suits all kinds of occasion
Sarrabulho – a stew containing pork, chicken or goat, the sauce bound with blood and flavoured
with cumin; also as arroz de sarrabulho, made into a risotto
The quality of Vinho Verde and the local brandies has improved greatly over recent years, thanks
Huge portions of fine beef, veal, goat, pork, offal, hams and charcuterie
in part to better training and renewed enthusiasm amongst today’s producers; and in part to better
More vegetables and salads than in some parts
grapes. Where once the grape vines were growing up trees and over high-flung pergolas, many
Often the scent of cumin or coriander seeds
of the region’s vineyards today are trained along modern, wired rows. Here the grapes are better
Fish and seafood, and bacalhau
exposed to sunlight and breeze, and thus riper and healthier.
Doces conventuais - small, sweet confections of egg yolks, sugar and sometimes ground almonds
Some delicious wines are also made in the region under the more flexible rules of Vinho Regional
Minho, sometimes blends of local and foreign grapes, sometimes oaked.
Main red grapes for DOC: Contact: Comissão de Viticultura da Região dos Vinhos Verdes / Rota dos Vinhos Verdes,
Alvarelhão, Amaral, Borraçal, Espadeiro, Padeiro, Pedral, Rabo de Anho and Vinhão. Rua da Restauração, 318, Porto (Oporto)
phone: +351 226 077 300
mail: [email protected]
site: www.vinhoverde.pt
28 29
TRÁS-OS-MONTES
TRÁS-OS-MONTES
DOC TRÁS-OS-MONTES
VINHO REGIONAL TRANSMONTANO
30 31
PORTO AND DOURO
DOC DOURO
DOC PORTO
VINHO REGIONAL DURIENSE
This wild and beautiful part of northern Portugal offers extraordinarily good conditions for wine
grapes. The steeply shelved slopes of the River Douro, hill after hill stretching off to the horizon with
narrow roads winding around their contours. Here, the vine terraces bask in the sun that provides
the deal climatic conditions, heating the pure schist and granite soil that is typical within this region.
Though life is not so easy for Douro winegrowers; the vine roots are forced down between layers of
rock seeking out the limited water, while the schist absorbs and then radiates heat. For centuries,
Douro growers have been supplying an eager world with Port. Now wine experts the world over
recognise that the Douro region also offers ideal conditions for making unfortified wines of the
highest quality, both red and white. Producers here are crafting stunning and highly distinctive wines
that rank amongst Portugal’s most intense and complex. There are separate DOCs for unfortified
wine and for Port in the Douro, although geographically both lie within the same outer boundaries.
A plethora of different grape varieties is to be found in the Douro region. Some vineyards still have
the traditional mix of varieties and some winemakers who believe this grape variety mix is the key
to producing top quality wines. Others maintain that the best grapes for unfortified wines are three
of the varieties grown nowadays in modern, single-variety vineyards for Port: Touriga Nacional,
Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz. Some also favour Sousão (or Vinhão) for the welcome acidity it brings
to the blend. What is certain is that single variety plantings make the viticulturist’s task easier, since
pruning, vineyard treatments and picking can be done at the most appropriate time for a complete
block of vines.
The traditional vineyard scenery, dominated by the old, narrow, stone-walled terraces has changed
in many places, though preserved in the central section of the region by World Heritage Site status.
Elsewhere, bulldozers now sculpt modern terraces and mechanical diggers then separated by earth
32 33
PORTO AND DOURO
rather than stonewalled banks. The wider rows providing room for tractors that help to speed-up barrel before bottling. Tawny Port that specifies a number of years on the label (10, 20, 30, 40) is
the process of tending to each vine. On gentler slopes, modern vineyards are generally planted paler in colour, more mellow, subtle and complex as a result of the long ageing in barrel.
vertically, dispensing altogether with terracing. There are big changes in the wineries too, though
the Douro Valley is probably the last of the world’s major wine regions still to be pressing significant
quantities of its grapes by foot - in shallow, open wine-fermenters, called lagares. In recent years
there has been a widespread introduction of ‘robotic lagares’ designed to simulate the gentle action ON THE MENU
of the human foot, with excellent results.
IN THE DOURO VALLEY
The Douro region is divided into three geographical sections, Baixo Corgo, Cima Corgo and Douro
Pork – the tasty rare breed Porco Bísaro
Superior. The western most area, the Baixo Corgo, is the coolest of the three due to the cooling
Porc offal – every bit of it, including the ears and trotters
influence of the Atlantic Ocean and subsequently, its wines are lighter in style. The Cima Corgo,
Garlic rice with beans
centred on the little town of Pinhão, is the heartland of the Douro, cut off by mountains from the
Smoked hams and sausages, chouriço and alheira
maritime influence; it accounts for two-thirds of the Douro’s vines. To the east, towards the Spanish
Roasted game – goat, lamb and veal
border, the Douro Superior is wild and isolated and subject to extremes of climate; very cold winters
Broa de milho (dense corn bread) and papas de milho (corn porridge)
and roasting hot summers. Vine-growing here has historically been limited and sparse.
Bacalhau and salted octopus
Mountain olive oils
However, there has been considerable planting in recent years as producers have begun to comprehend
Chestnuts, potatoes, lemons, almonds, figs
the potential of this region. A measure of how difficult it is to colonise the rocky terrain of the Douro
Doces conventuais - eggy, sugary cakes and desserts
with vines is that a mere 17 per cent of legally potential vineyard land is planted with vines.
Recommended white grapes for DOC include: Viosinho, Malvasia Fina, Gouveio, Rabigato,
Vintage Port is made in the best years, and is bottled after only two years in barrel, keeping it rich
Côdega Larinho, Donzelinho Branco, Esgana Cão and Folgazão.
and red.
Recommended red grapes for DOC include: Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz (Aragonez), Touriga
Franca, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cão, Sousão, Bastardo, Mourisco Tinto, Castelão, Rufete, Tinta Amarela
The base wine for Port is made and fortified in wineries in the Douro Valley, then either aged in the
(Trincadeira), and Tinta Francisca.
Douro region or is transported for ageing to the Port lodges of Vila Nova de Gaia, opposite Porto (or
Oporto) at the mouth of the river. Port comes in a variety of styles, from young, fruity white, tawny
and ruby to the finest and most expensive vintage Ports and aged tawnies. Vintage Port will benefit
from ageing in bottle to add complexity. Single Quinta Vintage Ports come from individual estates.
Colheita Ports also come from a single, stated year, and are aged for a minimum of seven years in
34 35
PORTO AND DOURO
WINE ROUTES
Many producers in the spectacular Douro Valley receive visitors.
36 37
TÁVORA-VAROSA
TÁVORA-VAROSA
DOC TÁVORA-VAROSA
VINHO REGIONAL TERRAS DE CISTER
ON THE MENU IN THE
Cistercian monks, who built monasteries and churches amongst the vines, first planted wines in what is
TÁVORA-VAROSA REGION
now DOC Távora-Varosa. Hence the name of this new Vinho Regional (covering precisely the same area as
Chestnuts – one of the region’s most important crops made into caldo de castanha (chestnut soup), falachas
the DOC): Terras de Cister (Cistercian Country). The region is to be found over the mountains to the south
de castanha (chestnut-flour buns) and used in many other dishes, savoury and sweet
of the Douro at the southern foot of the Serra da Nave, between the Paiva and Távora rivers. It’s a remote
Wild mushrooms and truffles
and beautiful place, barely skirted by the new road running south from Vila Real in the Douro to Viseu in
Mountain game
the Dão. Countless smallholdings are cut into terraces clinging to steep hillsides, and most of the population
Cabritinho (young goat), or lamb, with rice or potatoes, roasted in wood-fired ovens
lives from farming – vines, maize, potatoes or apples, some also producing charcuterie or baking cakes, pies,
Goat’s cheese
biscuits and sweets.
Pork in many ways, including ribs, smoked sausages, rojões (chunks of fried belly pork) and torresmos
– pork crackling served as nibbles
Winters here are cold and wet whilst summers are hot and dry. The topography creates its own challenges
Presunto – local cured and smoked hams
with vines at an average altitude of 550m above sea level on granite and schist soils, and it is far harder
Bolas - bready pasties filled with cured ham, sardines or bacalhau, or carne de vinha d’alhos – pork marinated and
to ripen grapes than in the nearby Douro and Dão regions. The grapes retain acidity and bright fruit
cooked in red wine and lots of garlic
characteristics due to the cool night time temperatures at altitude.
Wonderful Arouquesa beef from the long-horned cattle
Trout from the River Varosa, sometimes prepared ‘de escabeche – fried and layered with cooked onions
The predominant cooling influences of this region are perfect for growing grapes for sparkling wines.
in a sharp dressing
Indeed, Távora-Varosa was the first region in Portugal to be demarcated for sparkling wines, in 1989.
Broa de milho – dense corn bread
Basulaque – a mint flavoured dish traditionally of tripe and offal, now often also with added ham, sausages
Approximately half of the grapes in the older vineyards are Malvasia Fina, but for a century or more Távora-
and chicken
-Varosa has also had significant plantings of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (two of the major grapes of the
Pears, cherries, oranges and apples, including the delicious Bravo d’Esmolfe
Champagne region of France) and ever more is being planted.
Doces conventuais – sugar-rich, eggy, often almondy sweets
Pão-de-ló – simple, light sponge cake
Some grapes for sparkling wine escape across the ‘border’ to a big sparkling wine company nearby in the
Biscoitos de Teixeira - lemon-flavoured sponge drops, and many other little biscuity cakes
Douro region. But many growers supply their grapes to a large, high-quality sparkling wine producer within
the Távora-Varosa region.
There are also a selection of red and white wines produced here, but with the exception of the sparkling
wines, most DOC Távora-Varosa is still sold locally.
WINE ROUTES
The Rota das Vinhas de Cister proposes two routes, one combining visits to vineyards and monasteries,
Recommended white grapes: Malvasia Fina, Cerceal, Gouveio, Bical, Fernão Pires. the other to vineyards and chestnut producers.
Recommended red grapes: Aragonez, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional.
Contact: Rota das Vinhas de Cister, Casa Paço Dalvares, 3610-013, Tarouca
phone: +351 254 679 000
mail: [email protected]
38 39
DÃO AND LAFÕES
DOC LAFÕES
DOC DÃO
VINHO REGIONAL TERRAS DO DÃO
TERRAS DO DÃO
Vinho Regional Terras do Dão covers the hilly and mountainous regions of DOC Dão and DOC Lafões,
plus an area to the north of Dão and the east of Lafões. Terras de Lafões is an official VR sub-region
of Terras do Dão.
The traditional vineyard scenery, dominated by the old, narrow, stonewalled terraces, has changed
in many places, though preserved in the central section of the region by World Heritage.
DOC DÃO
The predominant characteristic that unites the wines of the Dão, whether red or white, is the
delicious balance of all their constituent parts - acidity, alcohol, and concentration of flavour. These
elements all combine to produce an elegant glass of wine.
The region might have been created with winemaking in mind – you couldn’t wish for better
conditions. Surrounded by the mountain chains of Caramulo, Buçaco, Nave and Estrela, the Dão region
is totally protected from cold winds, summer rain clouds from the Atlantic, and even continental
storms. Within its mountain walls, the Dão is full of contrasts; warmer in the west, cooler in the north
and east, gently rolling hills merge with deep valleys, forests and mountain slopes. Climatically, the
winters are cold and damp, and summers are generally sunny, warm and dry. Yet in late summer, the
days become rapidly cooler, allowing long, slow ripening and the development of complex flavours.
40 41
DÃO AND LAFÕES
The vineyards lie high in the hills, at an average of 400m to 500m above sea level, even sometimes
as high as 800m, on decomposed schist or granite. Vineyards need to be carefully sited for best ON THE MENU
exposure to the sun to ensure perfect ripeness. This gives Dão wines an innate balance of bright,
mineral acidity combined with a wonderful fragrance, character and intensity.
IN THE DÃO AND LAFÕES REGION
Queijo da Serra da Estrela - wonderful intensely flavoured ewe’s milk cheeses from the central
Once upon a time, some Dão wines lost much of their elegant, fruity character by excessive ageing
mountains
in old barrels. With shorter ageing in today’s newer oak barrels, or even un-oaked wines, the natural
Requeijão, ewe’s milk ricotta - eaten for breakfast with cinnamon-flavoured pumpkin jam
quality can shine through. Top red estate wines tend to be contain at least fifty per cent of Touriga
or dark mountain honey
Nacional, the leading grape variety, and usually blended with either Alfrocheiro or Tinta Roriz.
Sopa da Beira or Caldo verde - Vegetable soups, laced with smoked sausage
Arroz de pato - a layered dish of rice, duck and other meats and vegetables
Not all wines from the Dão use red varieties and there are ever improving white wines, especially
Other rice dishes, with trout, lamprey or gorse flowers
from the Encruzado grape.
Rancho à moda de Viseu – boiled meats and vegetables
Migas à Lagareiro – a bacalhau or salt octopus dish with cornbread crumbs, cowpeas, cabbage
Most vineyards have been in the same family for generations. More than 30,000 grape-growers,
and olive oil
some with very tiny plots, produce about half the DOC grapes. Co-operatives are very important
Morcela - black sausage of rice or bread with various types of meat
here, nowadays employing modern technology. But individual producers, both large and small, led
Rojões - fried chunks of belly pork
the revival in quality.
Corn or rye bread
Maçã da Beira Alta and Maçã de Bravo de Esmolfe - Excellent apples and a host of local
Recommended white grapes: Encruzado, Bical, Cercial Branco and Malvasia Fina.
sweet specialities
Recommended red grapes: Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro, Jaen, Aragonez and Rufete.
42 43
BAIRRADA
DOC BAIRRADA
VINHO REGIONAL BEIRA ATLÂNTICO
Beira Atlântico is a new Vinho Regional area consisting of a coastal region no more than 30 miles
across for the most part. Stretching from just south of the city of Porto past golden surfing beaches,
the rice fields and salt lagoons of Aveiro, encompassing the DOC vineyards of Bairrada, and then on
to Figueira da Foz at the mouth of the River Mondego. The southern part of the region bulges out
to the east, taking in the university city of Coimbra and rising to the delightful Serra da Lousã, and
then down again into the basin of the meandering Rio Zêzere, which forms the border between the
Vinho Regional Beira Atlântico area and the new eastern Vinho Regional area of Terras da Beira and
DOC Bairrada.
DOC BAIRRADA
DOC Bairrada is approximately half way down the Vinho Regional area’s coast and not far inland from
the sea. Flat in the west, it rises in the east to small hills that are intensively farmed and sometimes
wooded. This is the land of leitão, the delicious roast suckling pig, and also traditionally, of robust
red wines made from the Baga grape. Red wines from Bairrada used to contain a minimum 85 per
cent of Baga. The traditional style of Bairrada still exists, sometimes labelled as ‘Bairrada Clássico’ –
and it can be one of Portugal’s most exciting wines in the hands of a skilled grower and winemaker.
Fully ripe Baga can make wines that are densely structured, complex, blackberry-fruited and
aromatic, with marked acidity, firm tannins, and great ageing potential. Other growers have turned
to alternative red Portuguese grapes such as Touriga Nacional but also, sometimes, international
varieties such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, all within the DOC.
Generally speaking, Bairrada wines can age extremely well, more than 10 years is commonplace.
These aged wines provide a unique character including a fine bouquet of honey, smoke and spice.
44 45
BAIRRADA
Bairrada also makes white wines, from easy drinking aromatic styles to more austere wines that Migas de Lousã - a layered dish of beans, bread cornbread crumbs and turnip tops, moistened
show appealing mineral and citrus fruit characteristics. Often un-oaked, though some of the better with olive oil
quality wines are capable of ageing to creamy, intense complexity. Traditionally made principally Ovos moles de Aveiro (Aveiro soft eggs) - small sweets of egg yolk cooked in syrup, wrapped
from Arinto, Bical, Cercial and Maria-Gomes, Bairrada white blends may now also include Chardonnay in communion wafers; queijadas de Tentúgal (delicate little cheesecake tarts), and around Coimbra,
or Sauvignon Blanc. the eggy, almondy Pasteis de Santa Clara
There are also a great many delicious bottle-fermented sparkling wines from the traditional white Most common white grapes for DOC include: Maria Gomes (Fernão Pires), Bical, Arinto e Cercial.
trio plus sometimes Chardonnay, Baga, or muscatty-floral Maria Gomes. And some red sparkling Most common red grapes for DOC include: Baga, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz.
wines as well – particularly good with leitão! Bairrada has a great heritage of sparkling wine
production by the traditional, bottle-fermented method, a tradition that is developing and increasing
in the 21st century. Currently the region accounts for around 65 per cent of the country’s production
of sparkling wines. WINE ROUTES
Contact: Associação da Rota da Bairrada,
ON THE MENU IN BAIRRADA Estação da Curia, Largo da Estação
46 47
BEIRA INTERIOR
DOC BEIRA INTERIOR
VINHO REGIONAL TERRAS DA BEIRA
This countryside in this region is dotted with ancient villages and fortified towns many of which
are surrounded by dramatic mountainous uplands strewn with granite boulders. A geography that
dominates the border with Spain to the east.
The new Vinho Regional Terras da Beira stretches from the mediaeval town of Figueira de Castelo
Rodrigo in the north to Castelo Branco in the south, from the wild eastern uplands by the Spanish
border westward to the great barrier of the Serra da Estrela. The region encompases the three
enclaves of DOC Beira Interior: two of the areas are situated in the craggy northern landscape,
around the towns of Pinhel and Castel Rodrigo, as well as Cova da Beira in the gentler countryside of
the south, where grapes ripen more easily than in the vineyards on the mountain slopes.
New roads have drawn the outside world closer to the Beira Interior in recent years, but this is still
a delightfully rural and unspoilt region, wide vistas sweeping from moorland to forest, from high
crags to gentle valleys filled with fruit trees, hillsides and wild mountains where sheep and goats
graze. The countryside is strewn with granite boulders, dotted with ancient villages and fortified
towns built of granite blocks.
The Serra da Estrela is mainland Portugal’s highest mountain range, a highly character-forming
feature that gives the Beira Interior/Terras da Beira a more continental climate than the Dão region,
westward across the mountains. It is hot and dry in summer and very cold in winter, with frequent
snowfall.
The mountain slopes of the Beira Interior bear some of the highest vineyards in Portugal, located
at 300m to 700 meters. The cool nights at this altitude acts to slow down the ripening cycle of the
grapes, in spite of the heat during the day. This combination of altitude, granite soils and summer
sun makes for a bold but bright style of wines with fresh and fruity characterisitics.
48 49
BEIRA INTERIOR
Top Portuguese grape varieties such as Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca thrive Requeijão - ewe’s-milk ricotta, with doce de abóbora (cinnamon-flavoured pumpkin jam) or dark
in this region, sometimes complemented with international varieties such as Syrah, Merlot and mountain honey
Cabernet Sauvignon. The premier local white grape is the Fonte Cal, an exclusive local treasure that Broa de Milho - chunky corn bread
can make rich, honeyed whites with steely fresh acidity. These wines are ideal to drink when young To finish, lemony tigelada or cinnamon-flavoured leite creme (set egg custards),
and are renowned for developing complexity with age. It may be blended with other Portuguese egg-enriched rice puddings, or farófias (floating islands)
varieties, (Síria and Arinto) and/or with newcomers including Chardonnay and Riesling. There is also Wonderful cherries, peaches, apples
a selection of high quality sparkling wines and rosés from the Terras da Beira region
Quality is definitely on the up, both amongst individual producers and co-operatives.
Old vines can make for concentrated flavour.
WINE ROUTES
Most common white grapes for DOC: Síria, Arinto, Fonte Cal, Malvasia, Fernão Pires.
Most common red grapes for DOC: Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro, Trincadeira,Touriga Franca, Contact: Comissão Vitivinícola Regional da Beira Interior,
Rufete, Bastardo, Marufo, Tinta Roriz (Aragonez). Avenida Cidade de Safed lote 7 1º, 6300-537 Guarda
phone: +351 271 224 129
mail: [email protected]
50 51
LISBOA
DOC ALENQUER
DOC ARRUDA
DOC BUCELAS
DOC CARCAVELOS
DOC COLARES
DOC ENCOSTAS D’AIRE
DOC LOURINHÃ
DOC ÓBIDOS
DOC TORRES VEDRAS
VINHO REGIONAL LISBOA
Fresh sea breezes keep the windmills turning in this charming, hilly coastal region to the
west and north of Lisbon. They also keep the vineyards cool, especially on the seaward side.
The Lisbon region (which was known as Estremadura until the 2008 vintage) has more DOCs
than any other wine region of Portugal; a total of nine, of which one is for aguardente (brandy)
rather than wine. There are a growing number of private wine estates, but a great many small-
-scale producers deliver their grapes to large co-operatives. Many excellent wines are also sold
as Vinho Regional Lisboa in addition to a large quantity of everyday drinking inexpensive wines,
labelled as vinho (table wine).
It’s hardly surprising that the two historic DOC regions west of Lisbon have dwindled in
recent decades, the cost of land is at a high premium along the region’s southern coast.
Fast roads head into Lisbon from the fine sandy beaches to the smart commuter towns
of Cascais and Estoril, littered with historic palaces, mansions and sought-after houses.
52 53
LISBOA
In the southern DOC of Carcavelos, long famous for its sweet wines, most of the vines have There is a group of highly motivated, quality-conscious producers in Alenquer, alongside some
given way to buildings. DOC Colares has suffered a similar decline. The Colares region begins innovative winemaking techniques that is showing much promise for future success.
around the headland from Cascais, beyond the spectacular, golden surfing beach of Guincho,
inland from Cabo da Roca, Europe’s westernmost headland. The vines of Colares were famously It’s cooler to the seaward side of the Serra de Montejunto, in DOC Torres Vedras, especially on
planted deep into the sand dunes, protected by windbreaks; the high-acid, tannic reds legendary the region’s western flank, where sea breezes are strongest. This is a source of light, dry white
for their ageing potential. The main grape of Colares is the tannic Ramisco; scarcely found wines, including a low-alcohol white known as Vinho Leve. There are also a few lighter styles of
nowadays elsewhere in Portugal, even in Colares, only 10ha remain. White Colares production is red wines produced here.
largely is based on Malvasia grapes.
Back inland, north of Alenquer resides the DOC Óbidos area, with the beautiful, walled medieval
DOC Bucelas is the third of the small, historic wine regions close to Lisbon. Though only 25km town of Óbidos on its north-western flank. The grape growing season is quite cool, and produces
north of Lisbon’s central Baixa district, it has survived and indeed grown in recent years, and good, crisp whites (including Vinho Leve) and some of Portugal’s finest sparkling wines, as well
justifiably so, producing as it does some of Portugal’s finest white wines. Bucelas (white only, as some reds, which are light and elegant.
both still and sparkling) has a crisp, dry mineral character and is made predominantly from the
Arinto grape. Bucelas wines can be enjoyed when first bottled or can develop complexity and To the windswept west of Óbidos, Lourinhã is the DOC for brandy. The region’s north-eastern tip
finesse with two or three years of bottle ageing. reaches out to the busy fishing port of Peniche and the Cabo Carvoeiro headland. Northwards
beyond the cape, an ancient pine forest, the Pinhal de Leiria fringes the surfing beaches. The
Just north of Bucelas, still inland, lies the small region of Arruda. This is a delightful, fairy-tale pine forest is a natural barrier that has been responsible for curbing the spread of the sand
setting of hills, an ancient ruined castle, old Roman roads, historic windmills (nowadays also dunes, taming the gusty ocean winds, and protecting the vineyards of Encostas de Aire, Lisboa’s
modern wind turbines), and vineyards, growing predominantly red grapes. Since 2002, DOC largest and northernmost DOC. This is hilly country, where pears, apples, peaches and figs
Arruda wines may include international grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Chardonnay compete for space with vineyards.
as well as some of the most desirable grapes from elsewhere in Portugal, such as Touriga
Nacional and Touriga Franca. The same applies to the other DOC regions in the central part of The region surrounds the pretty, cobbled town of Leiria, the famous pilgrimage centre of Fátima,
the Lisboa region: Alenquer, Torres Vedras and Óbidos where a wide variety of grape varieties and the fabulous monasteries at Batalha and Alcobaça, both UNESCO World Heritage sites. Both
are planted. white and red wines are light, fresh and low in alcohol.
Heading north again from Arruda, still inland, in the countryside around the town of Alenquer, Most common white grapes (variable according to the DOC) including: Arinto, Fernão
DOC Alenquer is protected from the harsh Atlantic Ocean winds by the chalky hills of the Pires, Malvasia (Colares), Rabo de Ovelha, Vital.
Serra de Montejunto. In this mild climate, grapes can ripen at their leisure, and in the best Most common red grapes (variable according to the DOC) including: Aragonez, Castelão,
vintages can produce very good, concentrated red wines and whites with good, fresh acidity. Ramisco (Colares), Tinta Miúda, Touriga Nacional.
54 55
LISBOA
56 57
TEJO
DOC DO TEJO
VINHO REGIONAL TEJO
The classic images of the Tejo region are willowy, watery meadows and flat, green farmland bisected
by a wide, stately river. And indeed the region encompasses much of the course of the River Tagus
(Tejo in Portuguese) as it flows down from the centre of Portugal into its gaping estuary by Lisbon.
Away from the river, the Tejo region rises into drier, hillier country, clad in olive groves and orchards,
as well as vineyards.
In recent years, new vine plantings in the Tejo region have been concentrated in these higher, drier
areas, as priorities have shifted from quantity to quality. The two upland areas are the Charneca
and the Bairro. The Charneca lies to the south-east of the river, bordering on the Alentejo, and is
hotter and drier than the rest of the Tejo region. Soils here are sandy and production per vine is low
(a plus for quality) and grapes ripen easily and early. To the north and east of the river, the uplands
are known as the Bairro, where plains alternate with hills and ultimately reach up into the foothills
of the mountain ranges of the Serra de Aire and Serra dos Candeeiros, by the border with the Lisboa
region. Soils in the Bairro are mainly clay and limestone, with a patch of schist up near the charming
mediaeval town of Tomar.
Some of the Tejo region’s vines still grow in the Leziria, the fertile, alluvial plains where water is
never far below the surface and the climate is moderated by the river. It takes a great commitment
to produce fine wines in these conditions; conscientious pruning, trimming of exuberant foliage and
snipping off excess grape bunches before they have time to develop. Many grape-growers deliver
their crops to co-operatives and much of the produce is gentle, easy-drinking red, rosé and fruity,
often aromatic white wines. Some grape farmers have switched to other crops - there’s a ready
market for the melons, strawberries, tomatoes, cereals, rice, vegetables and fruit that also grow with
great ease in the riverlands.
There’s no shortage of pasture for livestock here. Servicing studs of Lusitano horses, rearing of
cattle for bull running and bull-fighting of the less terminal, Portuguese kind, and in the south by
58 59
TEJO
the estuary there is a wetland nature reserve. At the region’s heart, the city of Santarém, once a
strategic fortress town on a plateau beside the river, is now a lively agricultural centre. And you’ll be WINE ROUTES
there in just an hour from Lisbon, glass in hand.
The Tejo region has a number of excellent, carefully planned wine routes.
As well as easy-quaffing reds, fragrant whites and fruity rosés, the Tejo has more
complex wine from the hilly areas. Contact: Rota dos Vinhos do Tejo, Comissão Vitivinícola Regional do Tejo,
Rua de São Pedro, Apartado 393, São Pedro, 2001-905 Santarém
Most common white grapes DOC: Fernão Pires (Maria Gomes), Galego-Dourado, phone: + 351 243 309 400
Tringadeira-das-Pratas. mail: [email protected] or [email protected]
Most common red grapes DOC: Aragonez (Tinta Roriz), Castelão (João de Santarém), site: www.rotavinhostejo.com or www.cvrtejo.pt
Moreto, Negra-Mol, Rufete.
ON THE MENU
IN THE TEJO REGION
Sopa da Pedra - ‘stone soup’ contains vegetables, pulses, garlic, potatoes, coriander, ham and sausages
Other vegetable soups and stews, and fresh vegetables in profusion
Bready dishes, such as açorda or magusto, made with dense corn bread
Arroz (rice) is a staple
Tomatoes abound - arroz de tomate (tomato rice) is on many menus
Favas com chouriço – a broad bean stew
Beef dishes (those bulls again)
Cabrito assado - roasted goat cooked in garlic
Tagus eels and sável (shad)
Queijo de Tomar - tiny goat’s cheeses, usually young and fresh, sometimes mature and nutty
and sold in olive oil
Sweet melons various
Fios de ovos - egg threads, thin strands of egg poached in sugar syrup with split-second timing
60 61
PENÍNSULA DE SETÚBAL
DOC SETÚBAL / PALMELA
VINHO REGIONAL PENÍNSULA DE SETÚBAL
The heartland of this seaside region is the Setúbal Península, across the Tagus bridges from
Lisbon. It’s a vibrant venue for Lisbon weekenders, and since the opening of the latest bridge,
home to ever more commuters. In summer it is the smart Atlantic surf beaches and golf courses
of the west that draw the crowds, as well as the sheltered southern coves beneath the wooded
hills of the Arrábida Natural Park. In amongst the Arrábida woods are hilly pastures for the
sheep that produce the stunning Azeitão cheeses, and vineyards of Moscatel grapes destined
for one of Portugal’s classic sweet wines, DOC Setúbal. The Península has its own premier red
grape, the Castelão, which dominates the fine red wines of Palmela. The grape variety seems
more at home here than in the rest of Portugal. The two DOCs are confined to the Península, but
the VR Península de Setúbal extends around the marshlands of the Sado Estuary (a haven for
wading birds and a source of salt and rice), 60km down the Atlantic coast to the small town of
Sines. The River Sado flows through the eastern side of the region, and strongly influences the
terroir.
VR Península de Setúbal can be made from a huge range of grapes, Portuguese and international,
and wine styles can vary greatly.
Vineyards and winemaking are a thriving business in this region, despite growing pressure on
land. Two of Portugal’s largest and most forward-looking wine companies have significantly
influenced the development of wine quality and styles. There are also a number of good wine
co-operatives, and some smaller companies that are carving their own niche here.
DOC Palmela is required to contain at least 67 per cent Castelão, but it normally has more,
supported by grapes including Aragonez, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Trincadeira. Outside
the DOC Palmela and the Península de Setúbal, Castelão grapes can be very hard to ripen.
But Castelão is particularly happy here in the Península’s warm, sandy soils, and can ripen
to perfection, producing lovely, fresh, fruity wines with moderate alcohol and ripe tannins.
62 63
SETÚBAL AND PALMELA
With some bottle ageing these wines can evolve to show a complex, cedar, cigar-box character
rather reminiscent of fine, mature Cabernet Sauvignon. Alongside plentiful red Palmela, white ON THE MENU
Palmela is in shorter supply, and can be appealingly dry and fragrant when blends include
scented Fernão Pires and Moscatel de Setúbal grapes.
IN THE PENÍNSULA
Many of the best grapes come from the limestone Arrábida hills high over the Península’s
DE SETÚBAL REGION
southern coast. DOC Setúbal has to contain at least 67 per cent Moscatel de Setúbal (Muscat
Queijo de Azeitão - wonderful, small, intensely flavourful cheese made from sheep’s milk
of Alexandria) grapes, or Moscatel Roxo (Red Muscat). Those that contain at least 85 per cent
Salmonete - one of the most flavourful fish, red mullet is the star catch
Moscatel are entitled to be labelled Moscatel de Setúbal, or Moscatel Roxo. Grapes for these
Feijoadas - rich, bean-based stews
sweet, fortified wines, whether red or white, are fermented with their skins and then grape
Ostras - oysters cultivated in the estuaries of the Tagus and the Sado
brandy is added to stop the fermentation. The fragrant, flavourful skins are left to macerate in
Sardinhas - Setúbal is the spot for grilled sardines
the wine for a further few months, and then the wine is drained off to be aged for a minimum
Pinhões - this is a major production centre for pine nuts
of eighteen months in oak barrels. Sold at this stage, Setúbal is yellow, sweetly floral and citrus
Moscatel - the grapes are delicious to eat as well as drink
flavoured; Moscatel Roxo is darker, and rose-scented.
Arroz – rice from the wetlands of the estuaries, with seafood in arroz de marisco; and arroz doce
(rice pudding), may be made with creamy ewe’s milk, and flavoured with cinnamon
Only small quantities are further aged in wood to become, after 20 years, a dark nectar, with
Salt - buy the region’s fine flor de sal crystals, or enjoy fish baked in a salt crust
complex, intense aromas and flavours of nuts and dried fruits, citrus and honey. These wines
Beans, bean stews, and rabbit cooked with beans
rank amongst the world’s greatest fortified Muscats.
Pears cooked in Moscatel wine
Honey from the Arrábida hills
Recommended white grapes for DOC: for Setúbal: Antão Vaz, Arinto, Fernão Pires, Malvasia
Fina, Moscatel Galego Branco, Moscatel de Setúbal, Rabo de Ovelha, Roupeiro Branco, Verdelho,
Viosinho; for Palmela: Alvarinho, Antão Vaz, Arinto, Fernão Pires, Loureiro, Malvasia Fina, Moscatel
Galego Branco, Moscatel de Setúbal, Rabo de Ovelha, Roupeiro Branco, Verdelho, Viosinho. WINE ROUTES
Recommended red grapes for DOC: for Setúbal: Aragonez, Bastardo, Castelão, Touriga Franca, A very helpful tasting and information centre will arrange winery visits and suggest routes.
Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira, Moscatel Roxo; for Palmela: Alicante Bouschet, Aragonez, Bastardo,
Castelão, Tinta Miúda, Tinto Cão, Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira. Contact: Casa Mãe da Rota de Vinhos da Península de Setúbal, Largo de São João, 2950-248 Palmela
phone: + 351 212 334 398
mail: [email protected]
site: www.rotavinhospsetubal.com
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ALENTEJO
DOC ALENTEJO
VINHO REGIONAL ALENTEJO
This huge, sun-drenched area, covering much of the southern half of Portugal, has in recent years
become an important source of bold, ripe and fruity red wines. No wonder that Alentejo wines
often dominate the wine lists of Lisbon restaurants. The Alentejo attained its first sub-regions in
1989. Portugal’s entry into the EU had brought long-overdue investment into vineyards and cellars.
And modern technology, especially temperature control, made it possible to make good quality
white wines as well as rich reds. The Alentejo region has some wonderful old vines that produce a
lower yield (but higher quality) of characterful wines.
The Alentejo is vast and varied where only five per cent of the land is planted with vines. One of the
most exciting areas is in the north-east corner, around the city of Portalegre and over towards the
Spanish border. This high mountain country has a cooler climate than the rest of the Alentejo, and
the potential to make elegant wines. The central Alentejo, wide, rolling country around the towns
of Évora, Borba, Reguengos and Estremoz, is hot, and makes wines with a good balance of acidity.
Even further south, in the sun drenched area around Beja, winemakers are producing some excellent
wines. Soils vary greatly here, from granite and schist to chalk.
Between towns, you can drive for miles without seeing a soul, through cork and olive groves, past
sweet-scented lavender fields, golden wheat, maize, sunflowers, vines and grazing livestock.
DOC Alentejo wines can be made only in certain small enclaves within the greater Vinho Regional
Alentejo region. DOC Alentejo is divided into eight different sub-regions for the purpose of regulating
grape growing and winemaking in the varying microclimates and terrains. Portalegre, Borba,
Redondo, Vidigueira, Reguengos, Moura, Évora and Granja/Amareleja all produce DOC wines that are
labelled DOC Alentejo, and sometimes qualified by the name of the sub-region as well.
An increasing number of regional wines are labelled ‘Vinho Regional Alentejano’. Some of them are
made outside the DOC areas, and some within but outside of the DOC rules. A long list of grapes
is permitted for Vinho Regional Alentejo, including many foreign varieties, such as Syrah, which is
increasingly gaining in importance.
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ALENTEJO
The prettiest and most pleasant time to visit this region is April or May when everything is still Lamb, goat, chicken, game in the autumn, including acorn-eating javalí, wild boar,
green and aromatic, before the heat and drought of the summer months. Less than five per cent and wonderful fish and seafood by the coast, and bacalhau
of the Portuguese population live in the Alentejo. Occasionally you catch sight of a whitewashed Encharcada - rich, syrup and egg dessert topped with cinnamon
farmhouse atop a gentle hill, or ‘Monte’. You may have noticed the word ‘Monte’ on wine labels; it is Doces Conventuais - eggy, often almondy ‘convent sweets’
used here to mean farmhouse or estate. The Alentejo is famous for its beef, and for deliciously moist Elvas plums - delicious sugar-preserved greengages, especially at Christmas
and flavoursome ham and pork from the black pigs that roam free in the cork forests, feeding on
acorns.
Recommended red grapes for DOC: (variable according to sub-region) including Aragonez, WINE ROUTES
Trincadeira, Castelão, Alfrocheiro and Alicante Bouschet.
For help planning your route and booking appointments with producers.
Recommended white grapes for DOC: (variable according to sub-region) including Arinto,
Antão Vaz, Roupeiro, Fernão Pires. Contact: Rota dos Vinhos do Alentejo,
Praça Joaquim António de Aguiar, 20-21,
Apartado 2146, 7001-901 Évora
ON THE MENU
phone: +351 266 746 609 or 266 746 498
mail: [email protected]
Porco preto - the region’s native black pig giving some of the world’s best pork, offal and charcuterie
Carne de Porco à Alentejana - marinated pork with clams, vegetables and sprinkled with coriander
Presunto - cured hams; the best, indescribably unctuous and delicious, have DOP status and are
fed on bolotas (acorns)
Açorda and migas - bread-based dishes are popular, moistened by meat or fish juices, and/or fat,
or crumbed and fried, with the addition of vegetables, meat, fish or seafood
Poejo - pennyroyal, a mint-like herb, also leaf coriander, oregano and plenty of garlic
Sopa de cação - dogfish bread soup with garlic and coriander leaf or pennyroyal
Espargos bravos - wild asparagus
68 69
ALGARVE
DOC LAGOA
DOC LAGOS
DOC PORTIMÃO
DOC TAVIRA
VINHO REGIONAL ALGARVE
Over the last 50 years, many vineyards in the Algarve have made way for golf courses, hotel complexes,
avocado and citrus trees. Though in recent times, new vineyards have been planted a little way inland
from the coast. A combination of native Portuguese grapes and international varieties such as Syrah and
Cabernet Sauvignon are flourishing in these growing conditions. At the same time there has also been an
investment in wineries so that the most modern winemaking techniques can be employed.
Only one wine co-operative is still in action, in Lagoa, but there are a number of new private estates where
quality is essential to their success. The finished wines have already found a ready market amongst the
visitors to the Algarve in addition to export markets.
The Algarve has a prominent ambassador in - the British pop star Sir Cliff Richard, who owns a wine
estate there. You might expect this southern-most region to be Portugal’s hottest, but the sea keeps it
cooler than the southern part of the Alentejo, just over the scenic hills of the northern Algarve, so that
Algarve white wines as well as rosés can be fresh and appealing, and the reds have the potential to be
aromatic and elegant.
There are four DOCs: Lagos, Portimão, Lagoa and Tavira, but the best wines tend to be Vinho Regional
Algarve, taking advantage of the flexible rules and a wider and more interesting selection of permitted
grape varieties.
Recommended white grapes for DOC: Siria, Arinto and Malvasia Fina (the latter only in Lagos).
Recommended red grapes for DOC: Negra Mole, Trincadeira and Castelão.
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ALGARVE
72 73
MADEIRA
DOC MADEIRA
DOC MADEIRENSE
IGP VINHO REGIONAL TERRAS MADEIRENSES
Off the coast of Africa, 1,000km from mainland Portugal, the semi-tropical island of Madeira has long
been famous for its fortified wines, DOC Madeira. Madeira has chosen to use the new EU designations, DOC
and IGP. More recently, along with its sandy neighbour Porto Santo, it has a second DOC for its unfortified
wines, DOC Madeirense, and the islands also make unfortified wines labelled IGP Terras Madeirenses.
Madeira wine has been produced in the island since the settlement of the first explorers who first landed
at the island in 1419. The wine production process has been subject to change throughout its history,
though the fortified style of the wine has been an almost constant. Madeira wine has been exported to
a large number of countries during its long history and this has helped to bring a wider recognition to the
name of Madeira Island. In recent times, a number of classic European grape varieties have been planted
here, but many of the original Americano vines remain. The locals still prefer to drink curiously scented
table wines made from American hybrid grapes that are not permitted for use in DOC and IGP wines. This
influx of new grape varieties has led to a selection of fresh, unfortified wines (DOC and IGP) made in a
modern, government-financed winery. Verdelho is commonly used to make the white wines and the
red wines tend to use the Tinta Negra grape. A wide variety of international and Portuguese-mainland
grapes are being planted in these times of progress.
The climate in Madeira is largely influenced by the warmer currents within the Gulf Stream, and has an
average temperature of 22ºC in the summer and 16ºC in winter.
A layer of cloud builds up over the mountainous interior during most days that interrupts the sunshine
with a brief downpour of rain. This regular occurrence does not deter the many tourists who flock to this
beautiful island. The combination of warm temperatures, a humid climate and fertile volcanic soil make
for gently ripened grapes that produce a lighter style of wines with moderate alcohol. Early exporters
of Madeira wines realised that their delicate produce travelled better when fortified with a little brandy.
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MADEIRA
They also discovered that something miraculous happened during long, hot sea voyages across the
equator; the flavour of the wines became more intense as they acquired an appealing nutty character. ON THE MENU
Madeira producers learnt to mimic this phenomenon by ageing barrels of fortified wine in the sun, under
glass roofs in their warehouses, for years at a time; a process they called canteiro. For their less expensive
ON MADEIRA
wines the winemakers discovered a short cut by using controlled heating in stoves (estufas), a process
known as estufagem. Three months of estufagem is equivalent to four years of canteiro, although the Bananas - small, sweet and delicious, also served cooked, as vegetables
results are less subtle. Anonas - custard apples, tropical fruits with creamy, subtly flavoured white flesh and big brown seeds
Batatas doces - sweet potatoes, as vegetables, or in stews, cakes and even bread
Madeira’s vineyards are fragmented into tiny plots along terraces carved into the volcanic slopes. Bolo do caco - Madeiran bread, soft and crusty, incorporating sweet potato
Most vines are trained on pergolas and the grapes are harvested between mid-August and mid-October. Atum - tuna, king fish of the seas around Madeira
The fermentation of the grape juice is interrupted by the addition of neutral alcohol once the yeasts have Lapas - limpets served in garlic butter, very seasonal
used up an appropriate amount of grape sugar to leave the desired sweetness. Traditionally, certain of the Espetadas - skewers of garlic infused meat, fish or vegetables
island’s historic white grape varieties are associated with wines of specific sweetnesses: The Sercial grape Carne vinha d’alhos - pork marinated and cooked in wine, vinegar, bay, olive oil, chillies
is used for wines that finish dry, Verdelho is favoured for semi-dry wines, Bual (or Boal) is considered the and lots of garlic
best choice for a semi-sweet finish, and Malmsey (or Malvasia) is used for the sweetest wines. Only the Milho frito - herby chunks of polenta-like corn-meal, crisply fried
very top DOC Madeira wines are still made from these four white grapes, plus, occasionally, Terrantez. Espada - the lightly flavoured black scabbard is the most common fish around Madeira
Due to the limited space for vineyards in Madeira, these traditional grapes are in a relatively short supply Bolo de mel - Christmas cake with fruit and nuts, highly spiced and sweetened with molasses
and demand for Madeira wines is increasing. The solution to increasing the production of less expensive
wine is to use a more plentiful red grape; Tinta Negra that produces Madeira wines of all sweetness levels.
Wines are categorised by method and length of ageing, as well as grape. Colheita or Single Harvest wines
are made from the traditional white grapes or Tinta Negra and matured in oak barrels for at least five
WINE ROUTES
years. Vintage, Frasqueira or Garrafeira wines must be made by the canteiro method from one of the
Although there are no organised wine routes on Madeira, you may be able to get help
traditional white grapes and then wood-aged for 20 years.
contacting wineries from:
IVBAM - Instituto do Vinho, do Bordado e do Artesanato da Madeira,
Authorized grapes for DOC Madeirense and IGP Terras Madeirenses white grapes:
Rua Visconde de Anadia, 44, 9050-020 Funchal
Verdelho, Malvasia Fina (Boal), Sercial, Malvasia, Folgasão (Terrantez), red grapes: Bastardo,
phone: +351 291 211 615
Complexa, Deliciosa, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Negra, Touriga Francesa and Touriga Nacional.
mail: [email protected]
Recommended grapes for DOC Madeira: Tinta Negra, Sercial, Boal, Malvasia, Terrantez
site: www.vinhomadeira.pt
and Verdelho.
facebook: www.facebook.com/VinhoMadeiraWine
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AÇORES
AÇORES
DOC BISCOITOS
DOC GRACIOSA ON THE MENU
DOC PICO IN THE AZORES
IGP VINHO REGIONAL AÇORES
Queijo do Pico - small, pale, spicy cow’s cheese
Queijo de São Jorge - large, firm cow’s cheese, mid-way in style between Gouda and Cheddar,
more aged styles are spicy
Buffeted by the mid-Atlantic weather, on the same latitude as Lisbon, this little group of islands has
Carne (de vaca) - beef, the top meat of the islands
a spectacular variety of scenery. From lush, green countryside and lakes to volcanic peaks caverns,
Alcatra - a speciality of the island of Terceira, meltingly tender marinated and slow-cooked beef
sulphur pits and lava flows. The islands’ historic vineyards are considered to be so special that a vineyard
Atum - tuna, plentiful in these waters in summer, line caught
area on the island of Pico has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. What makes these vineyards
Lapas - delicious limpets, in the summer season
so special? Most vines on the Azores are grown within currais, a small dry stonewall enclosure made of
Ananás - pineapple, a major greenhouse crop on the island of São Miguel, often served with
black volcanic rock. Vines are planted in holes and cracks in the lava flows, and the walls protect the vines
morcela (black pudding)
from Atlantic winds and salt spray. The vineyards of Pico are a particularly stunning example.
Torresmos - salty strips of pork crackling, served as nibbles in bars and restaurants
Cozido das Furnas - cooked in the hot earth of a crater lake on São Miguel, a stew of vegetables
Vines have been planted in this way since the early 16th century, when the islands were a port of call
with meat or fish
for discoverers on their way to the New World. By the 18th century, the sweet, fortified Azores wines
Pimenta da Jamaica - allspice seasons many dishes, savoury and sweet
were famous and prized.
Pão de milho - fine-textured corn bread
Massa souvada - light, slightly sweet, lemony, brioche-like bread
But vine diseases in the 19th century caused many vineyards to be abandoned or replanted with hybrid
And a great variety of fresh fish and seafood, as well as bacalhau.
vines. It was not until the 1980’s and 1990’s that Verdelho and other classic grape varieties began to be
more widely replanted. Today, three of the islands produce wine. Much of the island of Graciosa has DOC
status for their lighter style of white wines, vinified at the local co-operative. There are two other DOC’s
for fortified wines; in some coastal areas of the island of Pico and in Biscoitos, a small area in the north
of Terceira. A quantity of good quality, unfortified IGP Açores are produced on both Pico and Terceira,
WINE ROUTES
made, by a couple of small-scale private producers, and in Pico by the co-operative. Most wines are white, Contact: Comissão Vitivinícola Regional dos Açores,
and thanks to the damp, temperate climate, are fresh in style. Vinho de cheiro, ‘scented wine’ made from Avenida Machado Serpa, 9950-321 Madalena, Pico, Açores
hybrids, is drunk by locals and by nostalgic former residents in North America. phone: +351 292 623 605
mail: [email protected]
Recommended white grapes for DOC include: Arinto,Verdelho and Terrantez site: www.cvracores.pt
Recommended red grapes for DOC include: Aragonez (Tinta Roriz), Castelão, Rufete and
Saborinho
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PORTUGUESE WINE
WITH FOOD
Portugal has so many wine styles and flavours, including some fascinating flavours ginger, lemon grass, citrus zest, onions and sweet peppers are used as ingredients in a dish. Look out
that you can find nowhere else in the world. Whatever the occasion, whatever the for wines containing the fragrant Fernão Pires grape; this is prevalent in the Vinho Regional Lisboa
dish, you need look no further than Portugal for a suitable wine. Of course, one can enjoy area, and, alias Maria Gomes (Bairrada). Other aromatic choices could be Alvarinho and Loureiro
a good wine that has not been specifically chosen to pair with the food on your plate, and appreciate (Vinho Verde), and Moscatel, which is sometimes made dry, seco (Península de Setúbal).
both in their own right. But some food and wine matches are better than the sum of their individual
parts, and some foods will inevitably clash with certain wines. Generalisations are of limited use as It’s true that white wines are usually the best choice with fish and seafood. But some sauces on
the recipe for traditional dishes can vary, combined with the knowledge that Portuguese wines are white fish can create an excellent partnership with red wine; cooking the fish in red wine can make
so individual, even within their regions. Especially when one considers the ever-increasing number the pairing work better. Red wine is a local favourite with the Portuguese national fish bacalhau
of ‘Regional Wines’ - Vinhos Regionais. (salt cod), and with octopus or squid in a red wine sauce. Red wines, especially Baga/Bairrada are
surprisingly good with fresh tuna, and red vinho verde can be a seriously wonderful match with
Growers and winemakers imprint their character upon their wines, and even for DOC wines there grilled sardines. But Portuguese whites are considered the best match for salmon and sea trout.
is great scope for variation of grape variety, and blends of two varieties or more. There are many As an alternative, one might try a dry rosé to accompany swordfish.
facets within an individual wine that will influence the food that it will be most suited to accompany;
the grape variety, acidity levels, fruitiness, oak, tannin, sweetness level and intensity. A savoury dish that contains some gentle sweetness (maybe from vegetables, fruit, or a touch of
honey) will harmonise better with a wine that itself has a touch of sweetness, or a vibrant fruit
So there you are, in front of the shelves, or perusing the wine list: how do you go about selecting the character that makes ones palette perceive a degree of sweetness. Try a branded Vinho Verde
best wine for the occasion? Here are a few basic DIY pointers when choosing a wine. We invite you (rather than a dry estate wine) or a branded rosé. A soft, super-fruity Alentejo red might also make
to experiment, and see if you agree! a good food match, even though it is a dry wine.
Choose a fresh, high-acid white wine if the dish is high in acidity (perhaps owing to a salad dressing, A dry wine will taste flat if it is served with the dessert course. This is the perfect occasion for a glass
vinegar, a lemony sauce, capers or tomatoes). A softer style of wine will taste much less intense of vinho doce or licoroso: sweet Moscatel from Setúbal, or even Port or Madeira. A typical Moscatel
alongside sharp-tasting food. White wines from the north of Portugal are likely to provide a good will perfectly complement many of the flavours found in desserts, especially almonds, chocolate,
match. Wines from Vinho Verde, Dão, Bairrada, Beira Interior, Lafões, Terras da Beira, Beira Atlântico, coffee or citrus zest. Try LBV Port with coffee cake, or chocolate mousse. Malvasia or Malmsey
Terras de Cister, Terras do Dão, Minho or, from the cool, breezy Lisboa wine region, Bucelas or Óbidos. Madeira pairs with the local honey cake, bolo de mel, tropical fruits, and desserts made with nuts or
Sparkling wines also benefit from a high acidity that will provide a good match for this type of food. milk chocolate.
There are many options to choose from Óbidos, Bairrada, Távora-Varosa, Douro, Dão, and the Beira
Interior. Red wines with lots of tannin are difficult to match with food. Tannin is the naturally occurring bitter
taste one experiences when crunching a grape pip or when the tea bag has been left to stew in the
Aromatic, dry white wines can pair well with seafood and with lightly spiced Asian food, especially pot. Some food ingredients make these tannins appear more bitter; egg yolks, cream, melted cheese,
Indian or Thai, but not sweet and sour dishes. Aromatic wines are likely to be a good choice when spinach, celery, dill, and many spices. In this instance, it is preferable to choose a white or rosé wine.
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PORTUGUESE WINE
WITH FOOD
Fine, expensive reds may be very tannic when young, and all reds taste softer and less tannic as
they age. Amongst Portugal’s most tannic wines are the classic reds of Bairrada and Douro, and they
will pair well with game, offal, meaty stews and other richly sauced meats.
If one prefers to drink red wine then a softer or lighter bodied wine can be paired with white meats
and most simple red meat dishes. In this instance a robust and/or tannic red wine may overpower
the flavours of these understated dishes. Try a smooth red Alentejo, a light, easy-going Ribatejo red,
an elegant Palmela, Algarve or Alenquer, a light red from Óbidos, or a good, mature red from almost
any of the regions. The fresh acidity of a red Dão can cut through the richness of some meat dishes.
Robust, gutsy reds from the Douro, Dão, Bairrada and Alentejo can overpower delicate food flavours.
Powerful food flavours can completely mask the taste of gentle white wines and oak aged wines,
red or white, can also dominate a subtle dish.
Cheeses come in many guises; their flavours will vary greatly. Many individual cheeses clash with
individual wines. But some wine and cheese matches are divine. And the best cheese wines are just
as likely to be dry or sweet white as red, Port or Madeira.
White Vinho Verde with Thai roast duck curry, smoked mackerel, salads, hummus
Red Vinho Verde with grilled sardines
Bairrada/Baga with fresh tuna, roast partridge, chilli con carne, soft goat’s cheese
Aragonez with feijoada (bean stew) or cassoulet, Gorgonzola, thyme-flavoured dishes, lamb,
liver, bacalhau
Red Dão with pork, roast suckling pig, kidneys, presunto (cured ham)
Un-oaked or subtly oaked Touriga Nacional with beef
Setúbal with tiramisu, Christmas pudding, banoffee pie, lemon tart
Bual Madeira with Roquefort, Stilton, Gjetöst
Douro red with fresh goat’s cheese, old Gouda, Stilton
10-year-old tawny port with Queijo da Serra, Stilton, walnuts
Ruby or Vintage Port with Queijo da Serra
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GREAT PORTUGUESE
WHITE GRAPES
GRAPE VARIETIES AND FOOD
EVAN GOLDSTEIN MS*
ALVARINHO ENCRUZADO
If you like Albariño (Spain), Riesling (dry) or expressive Pinot Gris/Grigio. If you like Ripe White Burgundy, Tropical-styles of ‘New World’ or Vermentino (Italy).
An old grape variety of exceptional quality, it is deservedly famed for the varietal wines it produces in the Vinho Regarded by many winemakers as one of the great Portuguese varieties, Encruzado is capable of producing
Verde region, specifically in the two sub-regions of Monção and Melgaço. Alvarinho has a highly characteristic exceptional white wines. It is grown almost exclusively in the Dão and requires particular care and attention to
floral and fruity profile with notes of lime tree, balm mint, honeysuckle, peach, grapefruit and apple, all extract its finest aromas. The resulting wines are voluptuous and complex with aromatic mineral notes and tropical
well-married with the high acidity typical of crisp white wines from north-west Portugal. The grapes yield fruit flavours; most notably green papaya, passion fruit, and melon. Encruzado ages well and shows nuances of
balanced wines with good structure and moderate alcohol levels. Alvarinho’s qualities are being “exported” to hazelnut and vanilla, when fermented in oak barrels. It can be described as a fusion of the texture of Burgundian
more southern wine regions such as the Setúbal Península and Lisboa. Chardonnay combined with the aromatics of the Portuguese grape Fernão Pires.
Food Pairing with Alvarinho: Food Pairing with Encruzado:
A mainstay of the Minho region, Alvarinho provides the steely structure to most Vinho Verde white wines while Encruzado is a flexible match for foods as it provides wines with a rich structure and delicate aromatic flavours.
being the personality and predominant grape in the wines of Monção. Its zesty freshness, bright citrus and Avoid recipes that contain bold flavours with this grape, as its nuances can be easily lost. The wine pairs well
green apple flavours, and refreshing personality make it a superb seafood wine, even a perfect pairing for fish with creamy risottos, simply cooked scallops, shrimp, and textured fish like Chilean sea bass or angler (monk-
and chips, where the wine’s acidity is a refreshing foil to the battered crust. Foods from northern Asia also make -fish). Roasted root vegetables, a simple pasta al fredo or a classic French blanquette de veau would also be very
a great match; from Japanese yakatori to Korean pickled banchan. successful matches. This wine can also accompany a cheese course; Encruzado is delightful with a range of semi
Asian duet: Vietnamese shredded chicken salad with cellophane noodles soft and milder washed rind styles.
European duet: Veal Piccata with lemon Asian duet: Congee with shredded chicken, grated ginger, and sesame seeds
American duet: Peruvian scallop ceviche with avocado European duet: Risotto with squash, chickpeas, and toasted almonds
American duet: Broiled Maine lobster with lime butter
ARINTO | PEDERNÃ
If you like Riesling (dry), Pinot Blanc or Chenin Blanc (dry). FERNÃO PIRES | MARIA GOMES
If you like Viognier, Rousanne or Torrontés.
One of Portugal’s oldest indigenous varieties with a long tradition in the Bucelas region, Arinto has now spread
to most wine regions due to its adaptability to different terrains and climates. Arinto, known as Pedernã in Vinho Fernão Pires is another of Portugal’s oldest varieties and one of the most cultivated grapes in Portugal. It can
Verde, has crisp acidity as one of its key features combined with a distinctive mineral character, excellent be found in almost all winegrowing regions, particularly in Tejo and Bairrada where it is known as Maria Gomes.
structure and a velvety finish. Its aromas are relatively soft, with green apple and lemon being most commonly A high-yield vine, Fernão Pires comes under criticism for producing one-dimensional wines that can be lacking
noted. Arinto yields wines that ages very well in the bottle, acquiring elegance and complexity. in acidity and are prone to oxidation. Attentive care from a skilled winemaker can bring out its extraordinary
Food Pairing with Arinto: intoxicating aromas and a capacity to produce distinctive wines with a rich character. It is typified with ripe
Arinto is a versatile white grape that can be paired with a variety of food. Its crunchy, youthful acidity makes it citrus aromas and notes of mimosa, lime and orange tree. These characteristics place this variety within the
ideal to be paired with dressed salads, marinated antipasto, and simply prepared crustaceans such as crab and family of aromatic grapes alongside Alvarinho, Loureiro and Moscatel.
lobster. A perfect wine to match with grilled foods such as white fish fillets, quail, and vegetable brochettes, Food Pairing with Fernão Pires | Maria Gomes:
Arinto’s inherent minerality and freshness bring out the delicate smokier elements while allowing the core Being mindful of the intoxicating fruit character of Fernão Pires is more likely to produce a successful food pairing.
flavours to shine. It is the perfect wine to take to a summer picnic, Arinto is a delightful accompaniment to a Examples of dishes that combine well with this wine include white fleshed fish served with mango salad, a coconut
selection of sandwiches and salads, and from a charcuterie assortments to devilled eggs. Not to mention the infused curry dish (lightly spiced), a loin of pork served with apricot chutney, or a pan roasted breast of chicken
endless assortment of olives! served with a plum mustard. Dishes with macadamia nuts, pine nuts, or cashews work well with this grape. And
Asian duet: Steamed fish with straw mushrooms and lemongrass one need look no further for a perfect white wine for traditional empanadas, onion tart, or other savoury/sweet
European duet: Shrimp and scallop terrine with tarragon aioli appetisers.
American duet: Chicken salad with green apples and walnuts Asian duet: Peking duck with hoisin sauce, green onions, and pancakes
European duet: Moroccan lamb tagine with honey and raisins
American duet: Brazilian seafood stew with coconut and tomatoes
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RED GRAPES
Tinta Roriz is the same grape as Spain’s Tempranillo that produces varietal wines of extraordinary quality, hence its The most widely grown red grape variety in Portugal is still often referred to as Periquita, although José Maria da Fonseca
presence in two legendary wines produced on the Iberian Península: the Portuguese Barca Velha and the Spanish Vega in the Setúbal Península outside of Lisbon legally owns that name. It is highly adaptable to different climatic conditions
Sicilia. This grape has also been grown for centuries in the Alentejo, but under the name of Aragonez. In good years it and its remarkable versatility enables winemakers to make a range of distinctive wines; from the easy drinking reds and
produces full-bodied, inky and highly aromatic wines. The grape has fine and delicate aromas of pepper and berries. rosados to the powerful and intense red wines that are styled for lengthy cellaring. The variety is at its most expressive
Aragonez has high yields and is indispensable in the blend of a good Port. This grape has shown good results in the in the Sétubal Península, where it makes robust and intense wines with aromas of red berries and blue flowers that
Dão region, while the best blends of Alentejo generally reply upon ample percentages of Tinta Roriz, as do the dry reds benefits from the skilful use of oak ageing.
of the Douro. Food Pairing with Castelão:
Food Pairing with Aragonez: Castelão is an ubiquitous grape in Portugal found not only in the Setúbal region but also in the Tejo and in Alentejo.
This varietal has a distinct range of styles across different regions with varying levels of tannins, acidity, and While many styles are made across the various regions, as a general rule the wines retain a food friendly structure
oak ageing. Classically paired with lamb, Tinta Roriz is also terrific with other red meats such as beef, roasted and acidity that pairs well with a variety of food. Examples are herbal scented recipes that use marinated meats
pork, sausages, and suckling pig, a classic dish in the Bairrada. Dishes that use a quantity of herbs pick up on the or served with a stew garnished with fresh herbs, even grilled tuna, and dishes with capsaicin (peppers) can work
savoury balsamic character of the grape and the wine can hold its own with duck and venison. Rosé wines that together with this wine. Mexican food, especially enchiladas are a surprisingly good match. When drinking the Ro-
incorporate Tinta Roriz pair well with Asian and Indian foods while the lighter un-oaked versions are ideal to pair sado Castelão it pairs well with some meatier fish dishes, especially those that include peppers, tomato, and spices
with less oily fish such as sword fish, shark, and tuna. Finally, many vegetarian dishes, especially those with within the recipe; such as the classic snapper veracruzana or Rhode Island’s version of fried calamari that contains
grilled vegetables, can make exceptional pairing choices. sautéed peppers.
Asian duet: Teriyaki chicken with grilled vegetables skewers Asian duet: Slow-roasted Korean short ribs marinated with garlic and soy sauce
European duet: Broiled tuna served with black olive tapenade European duet: Assorted French charcuterie, Italian salami, or Iberian chorizo/linguiça
American duet: Roasted chicken with buttermilk mashed potatoes American duet: Brazilian feijoada of beef, pork, and black beans
Baga is one of the highest yielding Portuguese grape varieties, and is grown in selected areas of the country, Also known locally (though not legally) as Touriga Francesa, this is the most widely grown grape in the Douro Valley
though mostly concentrated in the Beiras area, especially in Bairrada and Dão. When grown in ideal conditions the and is responsible for a large proportion of the grapes that contribute to making dry Douro wines and Port. Wine
grapes produce wines of deep colour, a good structure and powerful tannins that become finely balanced with bottle growers love Touriga Franca, as it is easy to cultivate, hardy and dependable for good yields. Touriga Franca shows
ageing. The aromas in the young wine are expressed as red cherry/berry fruit developing into red/black plum, delicate yet intense floral aromas with notes of black berry fruit combined with a full-bodied character and a vibrant
tobacco and coffee bean flavours finishing with expansive complexity. The grape’s ample acid allows for the ruby colour. It is one of the principal varieties used in Port blends, along with other highly regarded Douro varieties
production of quality sparkling wine, and the general consensus is that the best examples of this style in Portugal such as Tinta Roriz and Touriga Nacional. More recently the grape has been grown in the Alentejo, the Tejo, the Beiras,
come from the region of Bairrada. and the areas around Lisbon and despite its strength as a blending grape, it can produce excellent single varietal wines.
Food Pairing with Baga: Food Pairing with Touriga Franca:
Baga, as a red wine is an acquired taste for many as it’s not for the faint of heart. Characterised by fresh acidity Single varietal Touriga Franca is not commonly found in Portugal though it is commonly used within blended red
and ample tannins that are reminiscent of Nebbiolo combined with some nuances that are clearly more wines in many of the wine regions. To accompany this robust varietal requires rich red meat dishes, such as grilled
like Pinot Noir. However, this grape variety can provide some fascinating matches with Portuguese foods. or roast lamb and beef steaks; especially the more rustic cuts such as hangar or flank. Add a little piquant piri-piri
While it is locally traditional to pair with suckling pig, any other rich food will pair equally well; from pork (often found in Portugal due to its ties to Africa) or the fashionable, and tasty chimichurri sauce (the beef-friendly
belly to duck, from rich pastas to ribs and stews. Baga’s high acidity enables it to pair well with some salsa of olive oil, oregano, shallots, and a hint of garlic) to ensure a magical pairing. Touriga Franca also pairs well with
seafood such as squid and shrimp that has been prepared using red wine and it matches nicely with milder game such as squab and venison, and dishes with mushrooms such as morels, porcini, or Chinese black. Sausages and
and higher acidity cheeses such as feta. When Baga is produced as a white sparkling wine, the food matching vegetable brochettes are other good pairing options.
options are almost limitless; from tapas to spring rolls, and samosas to a variety of crudités. Asian duet: Stir-fried Malaysian rice noodles with dark soy, pork, and shrimp
Asian duet: Fried rice with Chinese sausage, char siu pork, and bok choy European duet: Greek Moussaka with spiced lamb, béchamel, and eggplant
European duet: Roast suckling pig (leitão, cochinillo, cochon de lait) American duet: Grilled south-western flank steak rubbed with ancho chilli paste
American duet: Slow-smoked southern BBQ beef ribs with mustard and vinegar
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RED GRAPES
TOURIGA NACIONAL
If you like Cabernet Sauvignon/blends, elegant Petite Sirah or fuller-bodied Syrah/Shiraz.
In the past, Touriga Nacional was the dominant variety in the Dão region where it’s said to have originated, and is
largely responsible for the fame of Dão red wines. Today it is also one of the most important varieties in the Douro and
is universally considered to be one of Portugal’s, if not the world’s, finest grape varieties. Touriga Nacional yields inky,
full-bodied and powerful wines with exceptionally complex aromas. It frequently shows blackberry, blueberry, rockrose
and rosemary notes. Its renown has ensured that this variety is grown throughout all regions of the country, from the
northernmost corners to the southern Algarve. It has even received interest from overseas vine growers; and is now
being planted in Australia and the USA, amongst other countries. Touriga Nacional wines age beautifully and achieve
aromatic complexity with the use of skilful oak ageing.
Food Pairing with Touriga Nacional:
Port that has been blended using Touriga Nacional, is a horse of a different colour and will pair splendidly with
chocolate, coffee, mocha, and nut based desserts. Port is also an ideal match for blue cheeses; from Cambozola to
Roquefort. As the key driving varietal of Douro red blends, Touriga Nacional can be considered for any of the typical
red wine pairings; red meat dishes such as stews, steaks and roasts and smoked or grilled meats will generally pair
well. Beautiful with teriyaki or char-siu glazes it also matches well with combinations of meat and fruit (lamb with
apricots, duck with prunes, chicken breast served with a sauce of raisins, orange zest, and pine nuts). And who
needs great claret with a rib roast when you can have this grape?
Asian duet: Robata-grilled beef with rice and black mushrooms
European duet: Cassoulet with duck, sausage, and beans
American duet: Coffee crusted prime rib of beef with roast fingerling potatoes
Although Trincadeira is one of the most widespread Portuguese grape varieties, it performs better in hot, dry
and very sunny areas, which makes it perfectly suited to regions such as the Alentejo. It is not easy to grow,
however, as it is prone to irregular yields and disastrous moulds. But in most years Trincadeira yields great wines
with excellent acidity, soft tannins and intense aromas of black plum and jammy blackberry, producing elegant
and well-balanced wines. A Trincadeira blended with Aragonez in the Alentejo or with Touriga Nacional in the
Douro, where it is known as Tinta Amarela, will result in a crowd-pleasing wine.
Food Pairing with Trincadeira:
This varietal is rarely seen as a soloist but adds a nice texture and soft floral notes to the wines of which it is a
part. As it is not a grape variety with an excess of any particular characteristic, the addition of Trincadeira to a
blend can help bring the other grape varieties into harmony and produce a food friendly wine. These wines can
often pair well with soft cheeses, simple recipes of pork, lamb, and poultry; poussin, Cornish hens, and even
turkey. Dishes with paprika, pimento, or other sweet/smoky spices also make a good match. Finally, rich grain
based dishes (sauced polenta, cheesy grits, and creamy risottos) can be an ideal accompaniment as can a plate of
charcuterie (pates, saucissons) or Italian salami.
Asian duet: Thai chicken satay with peanut sauce and cucumber salad
European duet: Paella with chicken, shellfish, and saffron
American duet: Argentinean empanadas stuffed with beef, onions, olives, and raisins
*Master Sommelier Evan Goldstein is one of the US most prolific food and wine industry veterans. Evan’s food and wine career started in the renowned
kitchens of Paris and California. In 1984 he joined his mother, Chef and Author Joyce Goldstein, in opening the celebrated San Francisco restaurant Square One.
In 1987 he became the eighth American and youngest ever at the time to pass the prestigious Master Sommelier examination. Since 1990 Evan has created wine
education programs and service hospitality schools. Evan continues to train and examine candidates for the Court of Master Sommeliers as a Founding Board
member. Evan is the author of Five Star Service: Your Guide to Hospitality Excellence (On Premise Communications Inc. publishers) and the critically acclaimed books,
Perfect Pairings: A Master Sommelier’s Practical Advice for Partnering Wine with Food and its sequel, Daring Pairings: A Master Sommelier Matches Distinctive
Wines with Recipes from His Favorite Chefs, both published by the University of California Press. In addition, Goldstein co-authored numerous books with his
mother Joyce Goldstein. Evan is a regular editorial contributor to America’s Sommelier Journal, a contributing editor for Wine & Dine and Indulgence magazines in
Singapore, is the American wine correspondent for Wine Review, South Korea’s leading wine and food magazine, and is a recurring guest wine expert on NBC’s
syndicated television show “In Wine Country.” He also makes regular guest appearances on the top-rated “Ronn Owens’ Show” on KGO Radio, and on Saturday
morning television’s KPIX “Eyewitness News”, both in San Francisco, and on the nationally syndicated Martha Stewart Radio, hosted by Sirius.
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GLOSSARY
PORTUGUESE WINE-SPEAK
A Adega winery, cellar, wine company I IGP A new EU alternative designation for Vinho Regional
Aguardente brandy
Ano year, vintage
L Lagar Fermentation vat, often shallow, always open-topped, made of granite, marble, concrete or
stainless steel, in which grapes are trodden by foot, or sometimes nowadays mechanically
B Bagaceira spirit made from grape skins, pips etc remaining after pressing Licoroso Fortified dessert wine
Branco white
Bruto brut, ‘dry’ for a sparkling wine, less 4g sugar/l
M Meio Seco Medium dry
C Casa House
Casta Grape variety Q Quinta Farm, estate, property
Cepa Vine
Colheita Vintage, harvest
R Reserva A higher quality designation for DOCs, must be certified by the local wine commission
G Garrafa Bottle
Garrafeira A fine wine with at least two years’ maturation in cask and one in bottle, a wine shop
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