Designation: D204 – 02 (Reapproved 2010)´1

Standard Test Methods for

Sewing Threads1
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D204; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.

´1 NOTE—The Multifiber Test Fabric No. 18 referenced in 66.1 was corrected to No. 10 editorially in September 2010.

1. Scope priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
1.1 These test methods can be used to evaluate sewing bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
threads of any fiber.
1.1.1 The test methods in this standard are intended to 2. Referenced Documents
evaluate only sewing thread taken from thread holders. 2.1 ASTM Standards:2
1.2 These test methods only provide for the measurement of D76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for Textiles
sewing thread physical properties. These test methods do not D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
address any other properties that may be important for the D1422 Test Method for Twist in Single Spun Yarns by the
satisfactory performance of sewing threads under particular Untwist-Retwist Method
end use conditions. D1423 Test Method for Twist in Yarns by Direct-Counting
1.3 These test methods can be used to measure the follow- D1683 Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven
ing properties: Apparel Fabrics
Sections D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
Colorfastness to Drycleaning 73-83 D1777 Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials
Colorfastness to Laundering 62-72 D1907 Test Method for Linear Density of Yarn (Yarn
Colorfastness to Water Migration 84-94
Diameter 43-50 Number) by the Skein Method
Length per Thread Holder 34-42 D2256 Test Method for Tensile Properties of Yarns by the
Shrinkage, Single Strand 51-61 Single-Strand Method
Dry Heat 58.1
Boiling Water 58.2 D2258 Practice for Sampling Yarn for Testing
Strength and Elongation 15-21 D2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated
Single Strand—Conditioned 19.1.1 Apparel Fabrics
Single Strand—Wet 19.1.2
Loop Strength 19.2 D3693 Specification for Labeled Length per Holder of
Knot Strength 19.3 Sewing Thread
Twist 22-27
Twist Balance 28-33
D3823 Practice for Determining Ticket Numbers for Sew-
Yarn Number 7-14 ing Threads
D3940 Test Method for Bursting Strength (Load) and Elon-
NOTE 1—For methods covering tests on prepared seams, refer to Test
Methods D1683 and D3940. gation of Sewn Semas of Knit or Woven Stretch Textile
Fabrics 3
1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as D4848 Terminology Related to Force, Deformation and
standard; the values in English units are provided as informa- Related Properties of Textiles
tion only and are not exact equivalents. D4849 Terminology Related to Yarns and Fibers
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the D6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the 2.2 AATCC Standards:
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-

1
These test methods are under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on 2
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
Textiles and are the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.58 on Yarns and contact ASTM Customer Service at [email protected]. For Annual Book of ASTM
Fibers. Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
Current edition approved June 1, 2010. Published July 2010. Originally the ASTM website.
published as D204 – 24 T. Last previous edition approved in 2002 as D204 – 02. 3
Withdrawn. The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced
DOI: 10.1520/D0204-10E01. on www.astm.org.

Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.

1
 D204 – 02 (2010)´1
Test Method 135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home 5. Sampling
Laundering of Woven and Knit Fabrics4
Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change4 5.1 Lot Sample—As a lot sample for acceptance testing,
Evaluation Procedure 3, Chromatic Transference Scale4 take at random the number of shipping units directed in an
applicable material specification or other agreement between
3. Terminology the purchaser and the supplier, such as an agreement to use
3.1 Definitions: Practice D2258. Consider shipping cases or other shipping
3.1.1 Refer to Terminology D4848 for definitions of the units to be the primary sampling units.
following terms used in this standard elongation; force and NOTE 2—An adequate specification or other agreement between the
loop-breaking force. purchaser and the supplier requires taking into account variability
3.1.2 Refer to Terminology D4849 for definitions of the between shipping units, between packages, or ends within a shipping
following terms used in this standard colorfastness; covered unit, and between specimens from a single package so as to provide a
yarn, greige thread, growth, sew, sewing force, sewing thread, sampling plan with a meaningful producer’s risk, consumer’s risk,
acceptable quality level, and limiting quality level.
tex, thread holder, ticket number, and yarn number.
3.1.3 Refer to Terminology D123 for definitions of other 5.2 Laboratory Sample—As a laboratory sample for accep-
terms used in this standard including the following; shrinkage, tance testing, take at random from each shipping unit in the lot
stitch, stitching, stitch type, and twist balance. sample the number of packages or ends directed in an
applicable material specification or other agreement to use
4. Significance and Use Practice D2258. Preferably, the same number of packages
4.1 Acceptance Testing—The test methods in Test Methods should be taken from each shipping unit in the lot sample. If
D204 for the determination of the properties of sewing thread differing numbers of packages are to be taken from shipping
are considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commer- units in the lot sample, determine at random which shipping
cial shipments of sewing thread, unless specified in the units are to have each number of packages drawn.
individual test method. These test methods are the best 5.3 Test Specimens—From each package in the laboratory
available and are used extensively in the trade. sample, take three specimens, unless otherwise specified.
4.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance be- When packages contain more than one parallel wound end,
tween reported test results for two laboratories (or more) select one end from which to prepare the three specimens.
comparative test should be performed to determine if there is a
statistical bias between them using competent statistical assis- 6. Conditioning
tance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative
tests that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the 6.1 For routine testing, condition the samples as directed in
same lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate Practice D1776.
results during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal 6.2 When preconditioning is specified in a material specifi-
numbers to each laboratory. The test results from the cation or contract order precondition the prepared specimens
laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical for at least 3 h in an atmosphere with relative humidity
test for unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the between
testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found 10 and 25 % and a temperature not exceeding 50°C (122°F) as
and corrected, or future test results for that material must be directed in Practice D1776.
adjusted in consideration of the known bias. 6.2.1 After preconditioning, expose the specimens to mov-
ing air in the standard atmosphere for testing textiles, 21 6
4 1°C (706 2°F) and 65 6 2 % relative humidity, until the
Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O.
Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709. mass of the specimen(s) increases by no more than 0.1 %
after 2 h in the standard atmosphere.

YARN NUMBER

7. Scope 9. Significance and Use

7.1 This test method determines the resultant yarn number 9.1 This test method should be used to establish standard
of all types of sewing threads taken from a thread holder. ticket numbers for sewing threads according to Practice
8. Summary of Test Method D3823.
8.1 A measured length of conditioned thread is wound on a
10. Apparatus
reel and weighed. The resultant yarn number is expressed in
tex. 10.1 Reel:
 10.1.1 General—A hand or motor-driven reel having a TABLE 2 Number of Wraps to be Reeled in Any One Skein in
specified perimeter. The reel shall be fitted with a traversing Checking Length by Skein Method
mechanism that will avoid bunching the successive wraps, and Resultant Yarn Number 1-m Reel Perimeter
1.5 yd Reel
Perimeter
with an indicator of the length wound. A warning bell that will
ring at a specified length is recommended. It is advisable that All thread finer than 50 tex 200 wraps 200 wraps
200 m 300 yd
one arm be collapsible to allow for easy removal of skeins. Threads of 50 tex up to 100 tex 100 wraps 100 wraps
10.2 Balance: 100 m 150 yd
10.2.1 For the determination of mean yarn number, a All threads 100 tex and coarser 50 wraps 50 wraps
50 m 75 yd
balance of suitable capacity graduated in grams with a sensi-
tivity of 1 part in 100.
10.2.2 For ascertaining the completion of conditioning, a
balance of suitable capacity graduated in grams with a sensi-
13. Report
tivity of 1 part in 1000 needed.
13.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test
11. Conditioning Methods D204. Describe the material(s) or product(s) sampled
11.1 Use skeins wound with the given wraps as noted in and the method of sampling used.
Table 1 and follow the directions given in Section 6. 13.2 Report the following information:
12. Procedure 13.2.1 Mean yarn number to three significant figures,
12.1 Determine the resultant yarn number in tex as directed 13.2.2 Coefficient of variation of yarn number to two
in Option 1 of Test Method D1907, except that in place of significant figures,
Table 2 in D1907 use Table 1 of Test Methods D204. 13.2.3 Reel perimeter,
13.2.4 Length of skein, and
TABLE 1 Number of Wraps for Determining Resultant Yarn
Number 13.2.5 Number of specimens.
1.5 yd Reel
Resultant Yarn Number 1-m Reel Perimeter 14. Precision and Bias
Perimeter
All thread finer than 250 tex 100 wraps 80 wraps 14.1 The precision and bias for testing yarn number are as
100 m 120 yd
All threads 250 tex and coarser 10 wraps 8 wraps given in Test Method D1907.
10 m 12 yd

STRENGTH AND ELONGATION

15. Scope once a regression equation has been determined because the
15.1 This test method can be used to determine single loop properties are strongly dependent on the straight strength.
strand breaking force and elongation of sewing threads. Single 17.1.2 Loop Strength—The loop breaking strength is a
strand testing includes loop strength, knot strength and measure of the thread’s ability to contribute to seam perfor-
elongation at sewing forces. mance. Loop breaking strength of a thread bears a direct
relationship to stitch breaking strength and hence to seam
16. Summary of Test Method breaking strength.
16.1 Single strand yarn specimens are broken on a tensile 17.1.3 Loop Elongation—The loop elongation of the thread
testing machine at a predetermined elongation rate and the is one important factor contributing to elongation of a seam,
tensile properties are determined. along with the stitch and seam type, the number of stitches per
16.2 The test method offers the following three physical inch, and the nature of the material stitched.
configurations of the specimen: 17.1.4 Elongation at Sewing Force—The elongation at
16.2.1 straight, sewing force of a thread influences its behavior during the
16.2.2 looped, stitching cycle on a sewing machine.
16.2.3 knotted. 17.1.5 Knot Strength—The reduction in breaking force due
to the presence of a knot is considered a measure of the
17. Significance and Use brittleness of the thread.
17.1 There are several properties of sewing thread that are 18. Conditioning
significant with regards to sewing and seam performance, 18.1 Condition the specimens as directed in Section 6 of
including: straight breaking strength, loop breaking strength, these Test Methods D204.
loop elongation, elongation at sewing force, and knot strength.
17.1.1 Straight Strength—The straight breaking strength of 19. Procedure
a thread can be used to calculate the loop breaking strength 19.1 Straight Strength and Elongation:
 19.1.1 Conditioned Threads—Select conditioned specimens force-extension chart, or display at a force of 227 g (1⁄2 lb) for
and determine breaking force and elongation as directed in thread used for seams in light-weight fabrics in the 0.135 to
Option A1 of Test Method D2256 except that a 250 6 3 mm 270 g/m, or (4 to 8 oz/yd) range and at a force of 340 g (3⁄4 lb)
(10.0 6 0.1 in.) or 500 6 5 mm (20.0 6 0.2 in.) gage for thread used for seams in heavy fabrics 270 to 0.520 g/m (8
length and a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) type tensile to 15 oz/yd).
testing machine having a jaw separation rate of 300 6 10
mm/min (12.0 6 0.5 in./min) shall be used. Disregard the 20 s 20. Report
to break requirement. 20.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test
19.1.2 Wet Threads—Select conditioned specimens and de- Methods D204. Describe the material(s) or product(s) sampled
termine the breaking force and elongation as directed in and the method of sampling used.
Option A2 of Test Method D2256 except that a CRE type 20.2 Report the following information:
testing machine having a jaw separation rate of 300 6 10 20.2.1 Options if other than A1,
mm/min (12.0 6 0.5 in./min) shall be used. Disregard the 20 s 20.2.2 Testing machine type if other than CRE,
to break requirement. 20.2.3 Gage length tested,
19.2 Loop Strength—Select conditioned specimens and de- 20.2.4 Number of specimens tested,
termine the loop breaking force as directed in Option C1 of 20.2.5 The average of the breaking forces for a sample is
Test Method D2256. Disregard the 20 s to break. the sample breaking strength.
19.3 Knot Strength—Select conditioned specimens and de- 20.2.6 Average and coefficient of variation of percent elon-
termine the knot breaking force as directed in Option B1 of gation at break or at specified force as determined for single-
Test Method D2256. Disregard the 20 s to break. strand, knot and loop configurations, and
19.4 Elongation at Sewing Forces—Test the specimens as 20.2.7 Average elongation at sewing forces, loop elonga-
directed for conditioned thread in 19.1.1. Read the elongation tion, either or both, if determined.
from the force elongation chart or display at the force specified
for the needle thread of the seam to be sewn. 21. Precision and Bias
19.4.1 If the force on the needle thread is not known, a 21.1 The precision and bias for testing strength and elonga-
guideline for sewing elongation can be obtained by reading the tion are given in Test Method D2256.

TWIST

22. Scope 25.2 Determine the amount of ply twist in a plied, or the
22.1 This test method determines the amount and direction component elements of a cabled thread made on the Cotton
of twist at the completion of any stage of twisting in single Spinning System as directed in Test Method D1423, except
(spun or filament), plied, or cabled thread. The procedures are take the conditioned specimen directly from the side of the
designed primarily for thread on holders. thread holder for testing. Determine the singles twist as
directed in Test Method D1422.
23. Summary of Test Method
23.1 The turns of twist in a known length of thread are 26. Report
counted as they are being removed by rotating one end of the 26.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test
specimen while the other end remains fixed until the elements Methods D204. Describe the material or produce sampled and
of the yarn being tested are parallel and free from twist. Twist the method of sampling used.
is reported as the number of turns required to untwist the 26.2 Report the following information:
thread, per unit length. 26.2.1 Average single, plied, and cabled thread twist in
turns per metre to the nearest whole number of turns per inch
24. Significance and Use to one decimal.
24.1 Twist is an important factor for determining the ability 26.2.2 Standard deviation and coefficient of variation, if
of a sewing thread to withstand sewing forces and provide calculated,
strength to the seam. 26.2.3 Direction of each twist, S or Z.
26.2.4 Length of test specimens, in millimetres or inches.
25. Procedure 26.2.5 Tension used, if different from that specified in Test
25.1 Determine the amount of twist in the component Methods D1422 or D1423.
elements of a plied, or cabled thread made on the Linen, or
Worsted Spinning System as directed in Test Method D1423, 27. Precision and Bias
except take the conditioned specimen directly from the side of 27.1 The precision and bias for twist testing are given in
the thread holder for testing. Test Methods D1422 and D1423, as applicable.
 TWIST BALANCE

28. Scope 31.2 Count the number of complete revolutions made by the
28.1 This test method determines the tendency of thread to thread as an indication of twist balance.
twist on itself when held in loop form. NOTE 3—A twist tester may be used to determine the number of
revolutions.
29. Summary of Test Method
29.1 The thread is held in loop form and its tendency to 32. Report
twist is noted.
32.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test
30. Significance and Use Methods D204. Describe the material(s) or product(s) sampled
30.1 This test method is important in predicting the kinking and the method of sampling used.
and snarling tendency of thread during actual sewing opera- 32.2 Report the number of complete revolutions specimen
tion. and the average of all specimens.

31. Procedure 33. Precision and Bias

31.1 Withdraw approximately 1 m (1 yd) of conditioned 33.1 Precision—For the components of variance in Table 3,
thread from the holder in the same manner as that in which the two averages of observed values should be considered signifi-
thread is delivered to the sewing machine. Cut the thread and cantly different at the 90 % probability level if the difference
form the segment in a loop with the free ends approximately equals or exceeds the critical differences tabulated in Table 4.
100 mm (4 in.) apart. Suspend the loop in a draft-free 33.2 Bias—This procedure for measuring twist balance has
environment and let the thread twist on itself until it comes to no known bias because the value of the twist properties can be
rest. defined only in terms of a test method.

TABLE 3 Components of Variance as Standard Deviations, Units

as Indicated
Within- Between
Single-Operator
Names of Properties Laboratory Laboratory
Component
Component Component
Twist balance, turns 0.0100 0.0100 0.200
Length, m 1.69 0.000 1.67
Diameter, mm 0.025 0.025 0.025
Shrinkage, wet or dry 0.310 0.310 0.340
percentage points

LENGTH PER THREAD HOLDER

34. Scope mechanism that will avoid bunching the successive wraps, and
34.1 This test method determines sewing thread lengths with an indicator of the length wound. A warning bell that will
wound on a thread holder. ring at a specified length is recommended. It is advisable that
one arm be collapsible to allow for easy removal of skeins.
35. Summary of Test Method
38. Sampling
35.1 The length of sewing thread on a thread holder is
measured by winding the thread from the thread holder onto a 38.1 Sample as directed in Specification D3693.
reel of known perimeter into skeins of specified wraps (see 39. Procedure
Table 2) and any residual part skeins and counted wraps. The
total length is the sum of the full skeins and length of any part 39.1 Determine the tension for reeling as directed in Test
skein. Method D1907. The thread need not be measured for length
per thread holder in the standard atmosphere for testing
36. Significance and Use textiles.
39.2 Remove the thread from the holder by reeling skeins
36.1 This test method is used to establish the length per having the length specified in Table 2. Determine the length of
thread holder when thread is being sold on a length basis. the final part skein in metres (yards) by counting the number
of complete revolutions of the reel and by measuring the
37. Apparatus length of the last partial wrap to the nearest 0.1 m (4 in.).
37.1 Reel:
37.1.1 General—A hand or motor-driven reel having a 40. Calculation
specified perimeter. The reel shall be fitted with a traversing 40.1 Calculate the total length of each thread holder to the
nearest 1 m (1 yd) for holders with nominal length in excess of
 A
TABLE 4 Critical Difference, Units as Indicated, for the Conditions noted
Number Observations in Single-Operator Within Laboratory Between Laboratory
Name of Properties
Each Average Precision Precision Precision
Twist balance, turns 1 0.0232 0.0329 0.466
3 0.0134 0.0268 0.466
5 0.0104 0.0254 0.466
10 0.00735 0.0244 0.466
Length, m 1 3.93 3.93 5.53
3 2.27 2.27 4.50
5 1.76 1.76 4.26
10 1.24 1.24 4.08
Diameter, mm 1 0.058 0.082 0.100
3 0.034 0.067 0.089
5 0.026 0.064 0.086
10 0.018 0.061 0.084
Shrinkage, wet or dry percentage points 1 0.721 1.02 1.29
3 0.416 0.833 1.15
5 0.322 0.790 1.12
10 0.228 0.756 1.09
A
The critical differences were calculated using t = 1.645, which is based on infinite degrees of freedom.

100 m (150 yd) and to the nearest 0.1 m (4 in.) for holders 41.2 Report the individual lengths per holder, and the
with nominal length of 100 m (150 yd) or less, using Eq 1: average length based on the lengths on all the holders tested.
Length of thread holder, m 5 A 6 B 6 C
(1) 42. Precision and Bias
where:
A = number of whole skeins times length per skein, 42.1 Precision—For the components of variance in Table 3,
B = number of complete wraps in last partial skein times two averages of observed values should be considered signifi-
metres per wrap and, cantly different in the 90 % probability level if the difference
C = length of last partial wrap on the reel, m (yd). equals or exceeds the critical differences tabulated in Table 4.
40.2 Calculate the average length per holder of sewing 42.2 Bias—This procedure for measuring length per thread
thread for the lot sample. holder has no known bias because the value of the length
properties can be defined only in terms of a test method.
41. Report
41.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test
Methods D204. Describe the material(s), or product(s)
sampled and the method of sampling used.

DIAMETER

43. Scope 45.1.1 Thread diameter is also a consideration when select-

43.1 This test method determines thread diameter either by ing sewing threads for embroidery, contrast stitching, or other
a thickness gage (preferred procedure) or by optical measure- decorative applications since cover is important with such
ments. threads.
45.2 Acceptance Testing—The optical procedure for testing
44. Summary of Test Method sewing threads for diameter is not recommended for accep-
44.1 Segments of thread are placed on the stage of a tance testing of commercial shipments since the optical proce-
thickness gage and the diameter is the thickness read from the dure suffers from difficulty in determining the exact
gage. Optionally, segments of thread are placed on a rotatable boundaries of threads having protruding fibers on the surface.
microscope stage and their diameters are measured using a
calibrated eyepiece. 46. Apparatus
46.1 Thickness Gage Procedure:
45. Significance and Use 46.1.1 Thickness gage, as described in Test Method D1777,
45.1 A knowledge of thread diameter is important because with a presser foot diameter of 9.52 6 0.02 mm (0.375 6
diameter can affect sewing performance and seam appearance. 0.001 in.). The presser foot and moving parts connected
Sewing performance can be affected because the thread is therewith shall be weighted to apply a total force of 1.67 6
required to pass through restrictions such as the needle eye and 0.03 N (6 6
tension disks. Seam appearance can be adversely affected 0.1 oz) equivalent to a pressure of 23.4 kPa (3.5 psi).
when the diameter of the thread is large enough to displace 46.2 Optical Procedure:
fabric yarn and result in a puckered seam. 46.2.1 Microscope, having a stage that can be rotated to
bring the thread parallel to the movable cross hair in the
eyepiece, a magnification to allow the thread to cover approxi- 47.2.3 Repeat 47.2.1 and 47.2.2 for a total of 20 measure-
mately one quarter of the field of view, and either a ments on segments of thread separated by at least 300 mm (12
micrometer eyepiece with a scale, or a filar micrometer in.).
eyepiece.
46.2.2 Mounting Plate, with clips or other means suitable 48. Calculation
for holding thread at a constant tension sufficient to remove
slack without stretching the specimen while it is measured on 48.1 Calculate the average of the ten thickness gage values
the microscope stage. recorded in 47.1 or 20 optically measured values recorded in
47.2 for each thread holder to the nearest 0.02 mm (0.001 in.).
47. Procedure 48.2 Calculate the average for the lot to the nearest 0.02 mm
47.1 Thickness Gage: (0.001 in.).
47.1.1 Draw the thread from the side of the holder, taking
care not to disturb the twist. Place four strands of the thread 49. Report
side by side on the anvil and approximately mid-way between
the sides of the presser foot of the thickness gage. 49.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test
47.1.2 Read the thickness from the gage indicator to the Methods D204. Describe the material(s) or product(s) sampled
nearest 0.02 mm (0.001 in.) and record this as the diameter of and the method of sampling used.
the thread. 49.2 Report the following information:
47.1.3 Remove at least 300 mm (12 in.) of thread from the 49.2.1 The procedure used,
holder. 49.2.2 The average diameter of the sewing thread on each
47.1.4 Repeat 47.1.1-47.1.3 to obtain a total of ten readings. thread holder, and
47.2 Optical: 49.2.3 The average diameter of the sewing thread in the lot.
47.2.1 Draw the thread from the side of the holder, taking
care not to disturb the twist. Mount the thread on the movable 50. Precision and Bias
stage of the microscope using the mounting plate. Take care
that no change in twist occurs and that the tension applied is 50.1 Precision—For the components of variance in Table 3,
sufficient to remove slack without appreciably stretching the two averages of observed values should be considered signifi-
thread. Rotate the stage until the thread is parallel to the cantly different at the 90 % probability level if the difference
movable cross hair. equals or exceeds the critical differences tabulated in Table 4.
47.2.2 Determine the diameter of the thread to the nearest 50.2 Bias—This procedure for measuring diameter has no
0.02 mm (0.001 in.) as the difference in the micrometer known bias because the value of the diameter properties can be
settings when the cross hair is moved from one edge of the defined only in terms of a test method.
thread to the other.

SHRINKAGE, SINGLE STRAND

51. Scope 54. Apparatus

51.1 This test method determines single strand thread 54.1 Vertical Stand with Hook—A stand to which is affixed
shrinkage due to exposure to boiling water or dry heat. a measuring scale with the hook located at the top of the
measuring scale so that the top of a loop of thread when hung
52. Summary of Test Method on the hook will coincide with the zero index of the measuring
52.1 A conditioned single strand of thread is tied in a loop scale.
and measured under a prescribed tensioning force before and 54.2 Measuring Scale, graduated in increments of 1 mm.
after exposure to boiling water or dry heat. The change in 54.3 Roller Wringer or Centrifugal Extractor.
length is expressed as a percentage of the length before 54.4 Drying Oven—A ventilated drying oven maintained at
exposure. a temperature of 65 6 3°C (150 6 5°F) in which the
specimens are not exposed to direct radiation from the
53. Significance and Use heating units.
53.1 Shrinkage in sewing thread is of interest because it can 54.5 Tensioning Weights, accurate to 1 part in 1000, and
cause puckering along seams, adversely affecting seam having the mass needed for the yarn number of the specimen.
appear- ance. (See 52.1).
53.1.1 A knowledge of the shrinkage in sewing thread by 54.6 Metal Hook, designed to hang from the specimen and
itself is not a sound basis for predicting the effect the thread shaped to receive the tensioning weights. The mass of the hook
shrinkage will have on seam shrinkage. Any combination of is to be included in determining the tension force applied to the
the following can alter the effects of sewing thread shrinkage specimen.
on the seam: the construction and mass of the seamed fabric, 54.7 Treating Oven—A forced-draft, quick-recovery oven
the nature of the seam assembly, or the tensions on the sewing that can be maintained at 176 6 3°C (350 6 5°F) in which
thread during the sewing operation. the yarn specimens are not exposed to direct radiation from
the heating units.
55. Number of Test Specimens 58.2.3 Immerse the wrapped specimens in the boiling water
55.1 Take three specimens from each laboratory sample and continue boiling for 30 6 2 min. Keep the wrapped
unit. specimen immersed in the bath throughout the boiling period.
58.2.4 Remove the cheesecloth with specimens from the
NOTE 4—Each specimen should be taken at points separated from each
other by at least 90 m (100 yd). bath and centrifuge it or pass it through a roller wringer. Then,
remove the specimens from the cheesecloth, dry them in the
56. Preparation of Test Specimens drying oven at 65°C (150°F) for 1 h, and condition them as
56.1 After discarding the outer-layer of thread from the directed in Section 57.
holder, remove an approximately 1200 mm (47 in.) length of 58.2.5 Remeasure the loop lengths as directed in 56.2 and
thread from the holder and form a loop by knotting the ends 56.3.
together.
56.2 Place the specimen on the hook of the vertical stand 59. Calculation
and position the knot to rest on the hook. Using care that the 59.1 Calculate the shrinkage of each test specimen to the
loop does not twist back upon itself, hang the metal hook and nearest 0.1 % using Eq 2:
appropriate tensioning weights on the free end of the loop.
56.2.1 Select the appropriate weight(s) for applying a ten- Shrinkage, % 5 [~L 2 F!/L] 3 100 (2)
sioning force equal to 10 mN/tex (1 g/den) based on the tex where:
(denier) of the original strand. L = original loop length, and
56.3 Measure the length of the loop to the nearest 1 mm F = loop length after exposure.
(0.04 in.), while the loop is under tension. 59.1.1 When F is greater than L due to growth, use (L − F)
57. Conditioning in Eq 2 and report the calculated growth.
57.1 Condition samples in the standard atmosphere for 59.2 Calculate the average shrinkage, or growth for the lot
testing textiles as directed in Practice D1776 for a period of 1⁄2 to the nearest 0.1 %.
h when moisture regain is 2 % or less, and precondition and
condition per Practice D1776 when the regain exceeds 2 %. 60. Report
60.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test
58. Procedure
Methods D204. Describe the material(s) or product(s) sampled
58.1 Shrinkage in Dry Heat: and the method of sampling used.
58.1.1 Preheat the treating oven to 176 6 3°C (350 6 60.2 Report the following information:
5°F). Then suspend the specimen freely from a stationary
60.2.1 Exposure conditions, whether to dry heat or to
object or rack inside the oven. Loops should not be near the
boiling water.
sides of the oven, or allowed to touch them. After the oven
60.2.2 Average shrinkage, or growth and
returns to temperature, expose the specimen for 30 6 2 min.
58.1.2 Remove the specimen from the oven and condition it 60.2.3 Number of specimens tested.
as directed in Section 57.
58.1.3 Remeasure the loop lengths as directed in 56.2 and 61. Precision and Bias
56.3. 61.1 Precision—For the components of variance in Table 3,
58.2 Shrinkage in Boiling Water: two averages of observed values should be considered signifi-
58.2.1 Wrap the specimens prepared and measured in Sec- cantly different at the 90 % probability level if the differences
tion 56 in cheesecloth. tabulated in Table 4.
58.2.2 Prepare a bath, made up of a volume of tap water, in 61.2 Bias—This procedure for measuring shrinkage, single
millilitres, that is at least 40 times the mass, in grams, of the end, has no known bias because the value of the shrinkage
specimen and the cheesecloth wrapper. properties can be defined only in terms of a test method.
 COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING

62. Scope 67. Sampling

62.1 This test method determines the alteration in shade and 67.1 Lot Sample—Take at random one container from a dye
of staining by sewing thread under conditions similar to that lot.
experienced in domestic washing of apparel and other textile 67.2 Laboratory Sample—Take at random one thread
end products. This test method is applicable to sewing threads holder from the container.
made from natural or man-made fibers, or to combinations of 67.3 Test Specimens—Prepare one test specimen and one
them. control from each thread holder.

63. Summary of Test Method 68. Preparation of Test Specimens

68.1 Sew three parallel lines of stitching on a 50 mm (2 in.)
63.1 Sewing thread in contact with a multifiber test cloth is
square of AATCC No. 10 Multifiber Test Fabric using thread
laundered in home laundry and drying equipment with or
from a thread holder and a type 301 stitch. The thread need not
without bleach under conditions intended to reproduce the
be a continuous length but should be taken from the same
effect of home laundering on sewing thread. The alteration in
holder. The stitching should be perpendicular to the stripes and
shade of the sewing thread and the degree of staining of the
completely across the multifiber fabric with 8 stitches per 25
multifiber test cloth are graded by reference to the AATCC
mm (8 stitches per inch) unless otherwise agreed upon
Gray Scale for Color Change or to the AATCC Chromatic
between the purchaser and supplier. The stitch lines should be
Transference Scale, as appropriate.
spaced approximately 10 mm (0.40 in.) apart, with the first
line starting about 15 mm (5⁄8 in.) in from the test fabric edge.
64. Significance and Use
68.2 Prepare two specimens from each thread holder, retain-
64.1 This test method is not necessarily useful for the ing one for comparison in evaluating the test results.
evaluation of sewing thread to be used for decorative stitching
such as embroidery. 69. Procedure
69.1 Launder each specimen for testing as directed in
65. Apparatus AATCC Test Method 135 using a machine cycle setting of
65.1 Automatic Washing Machine,5 with “Normal Setting” “Normal”; except use the water temperature and bleach con-
agitator speed of 70 6 5 cycles/min, washing time 12 min, dition from Table 5 of Test Methods D204 and any household
spin speed 500 to 510 rpm, final spin cycle 4 min, and laundry detergent in place of the AATCC detergent specified.
rinse temperature 41 6 5°C (105 6 10°F). The water temperature, bleach conditions, and detergent used
65.2 Automatic Tumble Dryer,6 with controlled exhaust shall be as agreed upon by the purchaser and supplier. When
temperature which cycles from 60 to 71°C (140 to 160°F) and chlorine bleach is used, introduce 240 mL (1 cup) into the
a cooling period while tumbling 5 min at the end of the drying washer in the manner directed on the bleach container. When
cycle. nonchlorine bleach is used, introduce it into the water in the
amount and manner directed on the bleach container.
66. Reagents and Materials 69.2 Dry specimens using procedure A in Table 1, and the
setting conditions listed under “Cotton/Sturdy” in Table III of
66.1 AATCC Multifiber Test Fabric No. 10.7 AATCC Test Method 135.
66.2 Any household laundry detergent.
66.3 Bleach: NOTE 5—It has been found that there is no appreciable difference in
staining regardless of which household laundry detergent is used. Because
66.3.1 Any liquid chlorine household type containing of differences in water hardness, different detergents may affect shade
5.25 % sodium hypochloride (5 % available chlorine). because of varying degrees of deposition from the hard water. However,
66.3.2 Any dry nonchlorine household type based on so- the deposition would be the same on the entire item in which the thread
dium perborate/sodium carbonate (pH of a 1 % solution should was sewn.
be 10.7 to 11.3). 69.3 Repeat the washing-drying procedure through two
additional cycles or as agreed upon by the purchaser and
supplier.
5
A Kenmore Automatic Washer has been accepted as the standard machine. 70. Evaluation
Source: Sears, Roebuck and Co. For model number and nearest Commercial Sales
Department, write AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709. 70.1 Grade each specimen for change in color from the
Any other washer which is known to give comparable results may be used. control to the nearest one-half rating unit as directed in
6
A Kenmore Electric Dryer has been accepted as the standard machine. Source: AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1.
Sears, Roebuck and Co. For model number and nearest Commercial Sales
Department, write AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709. TABLE 5 Laundering Conditions
Any other dryer which is known to give comparable results may be used.
7
The sole source of supply of the material known to the committee at this time Machine Washing Temperature Bleach Condition
is Testfabrics, Inc., P.O. Drawer O, Middlesex, NJ 08846. If you are aware of No. 1 30 6 5°C (a) chlorine bleach
alternative suppliers, please provide this information to ASTM International No. 2 40 6 5°C (b) nonchlorine bleach
Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of the No. 3 60 6 5°C (c) no bleach
responsible technical committee,1 which you may attend.
 70.2 Grade each specimen for change in degree of staining 72. Precision and Bias
from the control to the nearest one-half rating unit as directed 72.1 Precision—An interlaboratory test and calculation of
in AATCC Evaluation Procedure 3. components of variance was felt to be inappropriate because of
the restricted and discontinuous rating scales, the nonlinear
71. Report relationships between rating scales and color difference units,
71.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test the increased variability in color difference units as the true
Methods D204. Describe the material or product sampled, and value of the ratings decrease, and the restriction of the data for
the method of sampling used. degrees of staining. Based on these reasons and on general
71.2 Report the following information: practice in the trade, a lot or consignment of sewing thread is
71.2.1 The test option used, generally considered as having a rating that is significantly
71.2.2 The brand name and amount of detergent used. worse than a specified value when a specimen from the lot or
consignment has a rating for change in color that is more than
71.2.3 The brand name and amount of bleach used, and the
one-half step below the specified rating on the AATCC Gray
type (chlorine or nonchlorine).
Scale for Color Change or for degree of staining, a rating that
71.2.4 Number of specimens tested, is more than one-half step below the specified rating on the
71.2.5 Alteration in shade of the thread in each specimen as AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.
the noted grade on the AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change 72.2 Bias—This procedure for grading sewing thread for
and change in color or for degree of staining after laundering has
71.2.6 Staining for each multifiber stripe on each specimen no known bias because the values can be defined only in terms
as the grade on the AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. of a test method.

COLORFASTNESS TO DRYCLEANING

73. Scope completely across the multifiber fabric using the sewing thread
73.1 This test method determines the alteration in shade and to be tested. The thread need not be a continuous length but
of staining by sewing thread under drycleaning conditions. should not be taken from the same holder. Sew three parallel
This test method is applicable to sewing thread made from lines of stitching spaced 10 mm (0.40 in.) apart with the first
natural or man-made fibers, or to combinations thereof. line 15 mm (5⁄8 in.) from the test fabric edge. Stitch length shall
be 8 stitches per 25 mm (8 stitches per inch) unless otherwise
74. Summary of Test Method agreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier.
74.1 Sewing thread, in contact with a multifiber test cloth, 78.2 Prepare two specimens from each thread holder retain-
is subjected to drycleaning. The alteration in shade of the ing one for comparison in evaluating the test results.
sewing thread and the degree of staining of the multifiber test
cloth are graded by reference to AATCC Gray Scale for Color 79. Conditioning
Change or the AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale, as 79.1 Condition the samples as directed in Section 6.
appropriate.
80. Procedure
75. Significance and Use 80.1 Dryclean the specimen as directed in Procedure for
75.1 This test method is not necessarily useful for the Drycleaning of Test Method D2724, Sections 10.1 and 10.3.
evaluation of sewing thread to be used for decorative stitching 80.2 Repeat the drycleaning procedure through two addi-
such as embroidery. tional cycles for a total of three cycles.
76. Apparatus 81. Evaluation
76.1 The apparatus shall be as specified in Test Methods 81.1 Grade each specimen for change in color from the
D2724. control to the nearest one-half rating unit as directed in
76.2 AATCC Multifiber Test Fabric No. 10. AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1.
81.2 Grade each specimen for change in degree of staining
77. Sampling from the control to the nearest one-half rating unit as directed
77.1 Lot Sample—Take at random one container from a dye in AATCC Evaluation Procedure 3.
lot.
77.2 Laboratory Sample—Take at random one thread 82. Report
holder from the container. 82.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test
77.3 Test Specimens—Prepare one test specimen and one Methods D204. Describe the material or product sampled, and
control from each thread holder. the method of sampling used.
82.2 Report the following information:
78. Preparation of Test Specimens 82.2.1 Number of cycles specimens were tested,
78.1 A50 mm (2 in.) square of No. 10 multifiber test fabric 82.2.2 Number of specimens tested,
shall be sewn with a 301 stitch perpendicular to the stripes and
 82.2.3 Alteration in shade of the thread in each specimen as degrees of staining. Based on these reasons and on general
the noted grade on the AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change, practice in the trade, a lot or consignment of sewing thread is
and generally considered as having a rating that is significantly
82.2.4 Staining for each multifiber stripe on each specimen worse than a specified value when a specimen from the lot or
as the grade on the AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. consignment has a rating for change in color that is more than
one-half step below the specified rating on the AATCC Gray
83. Precision and Bias Scale for Color Change or for degree of staining, a rating that
83.1 Precision—An interlaboratory test and calculation of is more than one-half step below the specified rating on the
components of variance was felt to be inappropriate because of AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.
the restricted and discontinuous rating scales, the nonlinear 83.2 Bias—This procedure for grading sewing thread for
relationships between rating scales and color difference units, change in color or for degree of staining after water migration
the increased variability in color difference units as the true has no known bias because the values can be defined only in
value of the ratings decrease, and the restriction of the data for terms of a test method.

COLORFASTNESS TO WATER MIGRATION

84. Scope to be tested. The thread need not be a continuous length but
84.1 This test method determines staining by sewing thread should not be taken from the same holder. Sew three parallel
under home care conditions similar to those experienced when lines of stitching spaced 10 mm (0.40 in.) apart with the first
items are left in a wet state for a specified period of time. This line 15 mm (5⁄8 in.) from the test fabric edge. Stitch length shall
test method is applicable to sewing threads made from natural be 8 stitches per 25 mm (8 stitches per inch) unless otherwise
or man-made fibers, or to combinations thereof. agreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier.
90.2 Prepare two specimens from each thread holder retain-
85. Summary of Test Method ing one for comparison in evaluating the test results.
85.1 Sewing thread in contact with a multifiber test cloth is 90.3 Cut strips of 84⁄16 cotton/polyester terry cloth 50 mm (2
laundered in home laundry equipment and then retained in the in.) by 150 mm (6 in.) equal in number to that of the
wet state for a specified period of time. The degree of staining specimens to be tested.
of the multifiber test cloth is graded by reference to the
AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. 91. Procedure
91.1 Treat each specimen for testing and the strips of terry
86. Significance and Use cloth as directed in AATCC Test Method 143, except for the
86.1 This test method is not necessarily useful for evaluat- following. Use a 1.8 kg (4 lb) force. Use temperature condi-
ing high density decorative stitching such as embroidery. tions in Table 5 of Test Methods D204. Use no detergent or
bleach. Remove the load from the washer immediately at the
87. Apparatus conclusion of the final rinse. Separate the test specimens and
87.1 Automatic Washing Machine,5 with “Normal Setting” terry cloth strips.
agitator speed of 70 6 5 cycles/min, washing time 12 min,
NOTE 6—Multiple specimens sewn with like or different color sewing
spin speed 500 to 510 rpm, final spin cycle 4 min, and
threads can usually be tested simultaneously since normally the mass of
rinse temperature 41 6 5°C (105 6 10°F). the test specimens would be small compared to the total test load.
88. Reagents and Materials 91.2 Roll each specimen in a terry cloth strip and insert into
88.1 AATCC Multifiber Test Fabric No. 10.7 a test tube. Stopper the test tube and let stand for 4 h at
88.2 Bleached cotton/polyester 84/16 terry cloth.7 ambient temperature.
88.3 Test tubes, 19 mm (3⁄4 in.) diameter with stoppers.
92. Evaluation
89. Sampling 92.1 Remove the specimens from the test tubes and imme-
89.1 Lot Sample—Take at random one container from a dye diately grade each specimen for change in degree staining
lot. from the control to the nearest one-half rating unit as directed
89.2 Laboratory Sample—Take at random one thread in AATCC Evaluation Procedure 3.
holder from the container.
89.3 Test Specimens—Prepare one test specimen and one 93. Report
control from each thread holder. 93.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test
Methods D204. Describe the material or product sampled, and
90. Preparation of Test Specimens the method of sampling used.
90.1 A50 mm (2 in.) square of No. 10 multifiber test fabric 93.2 Report the following information:
shall be sewn with a 301 stitch perpendicular to the stripes and 93.2.1 Test conditions selected from Table 5,
completely across the multifiber fabric using the sewing thread 93.2.2 Number of specimens tested,
 93.2.3 Staining for the terry cloth and for each multifiber practice in the trade, a lot or consignment of sewing thread is
stripe on each specimen as the grade on the AATCC generally considered as having a rating that is significantly
Chromatic Transference Scale. worse than a specified value when a specimen from the lot or
consignment has a rating for change in color that is more than
94. Precision and Bias one-half step below the specified rating on the AATCC Gray
94.1 Precision—An interlaboratory test and calculation of Scale for Color Change or for degree of staining, a rating that
components of variance was felt to be inappropriate because of is more than one-half step below the specified rating on the
the restricted and discontinuous rating scales, the nonlinear AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.
relationships between rating scales and color difference units, 94.2 Bias—No justifiable statement can be made on the
the increased variability in color difference units as the true bias of Test Methods D204 for grading sewing thread for
value of the ratings decrease, and the restriction of the data for change in color or for degree of staining, since the true values
degrees of staining. Based on these reasons and on general can be defined only in terms of a test method.

PRECISION AND BIAS

95. Precision and Bias 95.2 Precision—For the components of variance in Table 3,
95.1 Interlaboratory Test Data8—An interlaboratory test two averages of observed values should be considered signifi-
was run in 1968 in which randomly drawn samples of two cantly different at the 90 % probability level if the difference
materials were tested for twist balance, diameter by the equals or exceeds the critical difference tabulated in Table 4.
thickness gage procedure, and shrinkage in each of five 95.3 Bias—These procedures for measuring twist balance,
laboratories. Each laboratory used two operators, each of length, diameter and shrinkage of sewing threads has no
whom tested eight specimens of each material. An interlabo- known bias because the true values of those properties can be
ratory test was run in 1972 in which randomly drawn samples defined only in terms of a test method.
of two materials were tested for length of each of three
laboratories. Each laboratory used two operators, each of 96. Keywords
whom tested five specimens of each material. The calculated
components of variance expressed as standard deviations are 96.1 breaking strength; strand; colorfastness; diameter; di-
listed in Table 3. mensional change; length; sewing thread; textile strand; twist;
twist balance; yarn number
8
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be obtained by requesting RR:D13-1009.

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