Lesson Produce Ladies Skirts (SK)

5 Manipulating and Cutting Final

Pattern

Pattern drafting is not difficult if you already have in mind the picture of what
style and design of skirt you want. It only takes knowing the art of pattern drafting and
doing the actual process so that you will be able to sew different garments correctly.

Foundation and style patterns are some of the basics that every dressmaker
must know, as this is crucial to making clothes. In this lesson, you will learn about
manipulating and cutting final pattern when producing skirts.

A flat pattern designing is working out the pattern by cutting of a garment either
in the material itself or by cutting a pattern using the foundation pattern as a basis
After drafting the basic /block pattern, you are now ready to manipulate the basic
pattern into a skirt apparel in accordance to the style specification.

Basic/Block Skirt
1. Prepare the necessary tools, supplies and materials needed:
a. Tape measure
b. Transparent ruler
c. French Curve
d. Hip curve
e. Pencil
f. Pattern paper 2 pcs /manila paper
g. Pins
h. Scissors
i. Eraser
j. Weight
k. Skirt pattern
2. Lay the basic skirt pattern on the pattern paper with necessary allowance for the
style Skirt.
3. Trace the front and back basic skirt patterns
4. Manipulate the basic pattern to the desired style.

ADDING SEAM ALLOWANCE TO YOUR SKIRT

Before manipulating the basic pattern, decide first how much seam allowance
you use. Some commercial patterns use the same seam allowance on every seam, but
it is better off changing the allowance depending on kind of the seam. This will help
you get cleaner and more professional finish.

In determining the seam allowance, it requires identification of the size of fabric

you’re using, and how you will be finishing the seams too. For example, you are making
a silk chiffon top, it is best to use a narrow seam allowance, so you don’t have a bulky
seam that shows through. A silk chiffon top is a delicate piece of clothing that is not
worn every day and is normally hand washed, so smaller seam allowances is possible.
But, if you are making a pair of skirt, trousers, and a coat, you need seams that that
can withstand constant pressure and especially in places where tension is put on the
seams like the crotch of trousers and the back part of the skirt. Therefore, it needs a
seam allowance that is wider than what you would use for your chiffon top.

WHAT IS SEAM ALLOWANCE?

Seam allowance is the extra space you add around the edge of a pattern piece so
that it can be sewn together.

If you do not plan to make up a toile of your pattern (in the case of pattern
blocks), then there is no need to add seam allowance. When you are using a block to
create a pattern it is much easier to use it without seam allowance and then add seam
allowance once the pattern is complete.

HOW TO ADD SEAM ALLOWANCE?

The easiest way to add seam allowance is with a long transparent ruler. But if
transparent ruler is not available you can use an ordinary ruler and mark the seam
allowance width at intervals along the seam and then draw the line through all the
points.

HOW TO MAKE A SEWING PATTERN BIGGER OR SMALLER

Grading sewing patterns is the act of making a pattern bigger or smaller so that it fits
your body measurements.

Pattern grading is a very interesting process because it’s not just a matter of gradually
increasing or decreasing between sizes. It takes into consideration the nature of human
body proportions and how they grow in different sizes.
How much you are supposed to grade a pattern depends on your body measurements,
but also on the human growth proportions. This means that your body grows differently
in different areas and in a different age.

HOW TO MEASURE FOR PATTERN GRADING?

To grade an existing pattern accurately, you need to have in mind all the design
elements (like gathering and pleats) that add volume to the pattern as well as the
wearing ease included. Then, you need to consider how they relate to the body
measurements for that size.

METHODS OF PATTERN GRADING

There are four basic methods to grade a sewing pattern up or down: the slash and
spread method, the shift method, grading nested (evenly graded) patterns and computer
grading. You can use each one to get an accurately graded pattern, no matter if you are
a home sawist or an independent designer.

The slash and spread method is one of the most popular way to resize a pattern. Its
name suggests what you have to do. First, you need to draw lines through the pattern
in locations where the body usually grows or shrinks. Then, you need to cut through
those lines and spread or overlap the pattern pieces.

What you are going to need is just a clear grid ruler, some tape, paper scissors, and
a pen.

You can see different variations of the position and number of the lines through
which you are supposed to cut and spread. There also are different grading rules
thought in different books and schools.

HOW TO MAKE A SKIRT PATTERN BIGGER OR SMALLER

To change the size of a skirt pattern (which is usually for ¼ of the body), you
need to divide the difference by four. Let’s use the same example and increase with 4
inches all around the body.

The front skirt piece is for ¼ of the body, so you need to divide those 4 inches by
4. That makes 1-inch overall increase. Then, you need to spread that one inch across
the skirt front at the slash and spread lines.

Draw three vertical lines through the skirt from waistline to hem: two between
the center front and the dart (lines 1 and 2), and one between the dart and the side
seam (3).
Then, draw two horizontal lines - one at the hipline (4) and one at mid-thigh
(5).
 1. Cut through the lines and divide that one inch across the
lines as shown on the image above. Add ¼ inch at line 1
and 2. Add ½ inch at line
3. Add ½ inch at each
horizontal line (lines 4
and 5).

Here is an example in
centimeters.

2. Let’s say we need to

upgrade the pattern with
4 cms. For a ¼ skirt that
would be 1 cm. We spread
at the lines and leave
0.25 cm at lines 1 and 2.
Then, leave half a
centimeter at lines 3, 4 and 5.

3. Redraw the pattern, following the new outlines.

If you need to make the pattern smaller, instead of

spreading the pattern pieces, overlap them following the
same instructions.

Make the same adjustment to the back skirt pattern

piece as well.
Altering the basic/block pattern

Adjustments to the fit of a garment must be made before the pattern is cut out.
Once you cut the pieces out of the fabric, it is too late to add extra inches that you may
need. If the garment is too large, the extra effort in redoing your work to make the
garment fit is tedious and discouraging.

General Principles for Pattern Alterations

 According to Ines Alcantara de Guzman, in her module in Dressmaking I, there
are four principles applied to all pattern alterations:

1. Preserve pattern outline whenever possible.

2. Preserve the original grain line whenever possible.
3. Avoid changes that disturb darts or decorations, by making changes between the
dart and outside edge whenever possible.
4. When altering adjoining edges, proportional length must be preserved.
These are best accomplished by using slash and spread, slash and overlap or
pleat method.

1. The Slash and Spread Method

a. Skirt is lengthened between hip and

hemline
b. Position line for increasing width of
waist, hip and hemline.
c. Alterations of the waistline must be
made on both bodice and skirt.

2. The Slash and Overlap or Pleat

Method

a. Length of skirt is reduced in between

hips and hemline.
b. Position line for reduction in width of
waist, hip and hemline.
Lengthening or Shortening Skirts

1. To lengthen the fitted skirt

a. Starting below the hip, slash all sections of the skirt
through and at right angles to the grain line.
b. Spread the desired amount keeping grain line
straight (a to b).
c. Increase width below the spread by extending
cutting lines to conform to slant of the upper section
on both sides of the pattern (a to c, b to d), and adjust
seam lines to parallel.
d. Slash the pattern and spread putting the pieces of
paper in between. Pin all sides.
e. When the enlargement extends only partially
through the pattern section, slash, spread and pin
to heavy paper.
f. If the slash crosses the grain line, be sure this grain
line is kept straight when pattern is spread.

1. To shorten the fitted skirt

a. Starting below the hipline, fold a pleat, half the
desired amount of the skirt keeping approximately
parallel to the waistline (a to b)
b. Straighten seam line by trimming excess pattern,
tapering from a to c and b to d.

2. To lengthen the flared skirt

a. Slash all sections of the skirt through the grainline,
approximately parallel to the waistline.

b. Spread the desired amount, keeping grainline

straight (a to b)

c. When the grainline is in the center, correct cutting

line by adding all increased widths to both sides of
lower section (a to c, b to d).

A. HOW TO USE THE CUT AND SPREAD TECHNIQUE

TO DRAFT AN A-LINE SKIRT

Now that you have a skirt basic/block that fits you well, you can tranform them into
different style of skirts.

The techniques used in the flat pattern-making, is relocating darts. This is a good
start! Once you know how to do it, you will be able to use this technique on any pattern
that has darts.
1. To start, you will need your skirt block. The
process is done by showing the front pattern
piece, but the principle is exactly the same
for the back-pattern piece.
2. Trace a copy of your skirt block, without
seam allowance.
3. Draw a line, parallel to the center front, from
the tip of the dart, down to the hemline.
4. Starting at the hemline, cut along this line,
until you are 1-2mm from the dart point.
5. Now focusing on the outside dart arm (the
dart closest to the side seam), cut down from
the waistline towards the dart point, once
again stopping 1-2mm from the dart point.
This will create a small 'hinge,' so that the
two parts of your pattern remain attached.
But you will be able to open and close your
dart with ease.
6. Close the waist dart by rotating the pattern,
until the cut dart arm sits on top of the inner
dart arm.
7. When in position, tape (or glue) in place. You
will see that, by closing the dart, you have
opened up the hemline, giving the skirt an
Aline shape.
8. Take a separate piece of pattern paper and
use a weight to hold it in place on top of the
pattern. Trace around the pattern. You will see that the waistline has become quite
angular since removing the dart, so you will need to redraw it with a soft curve. You
will also need to redraw the hem with a smooth curve.
9. Add pattern details, notches and repeat for the back pattern piece.
10. If you would like a more drastic A-line you can
redraw the side seam as a straight line (this will
remove any shaping around the waist). To
complete the pattern, add seam allowance.

B. CUT AND SPREAD TECHNIQUE TO ADD VOLUME TO A SKIRT PATTERN

The previous pattern manipulation shows how to draft an A-line skirt, by relocating
the fullness of the dart to the hemline, using the cut and spread technique.

This time you will know how to add more volume to the skirt block, using this same
technique. You can use this same method to add fullness to just about any pattern
piece: sleeves, trousers, blouses and jackets, and many more.
MARK THE CUT AND SPREAD

1. Using your skirt block pattern with

darts removed, as shown in the
illustration. As always, it is best to
have a copy of your pattern, without
seam allowance. It is much easier to
make adjustments with seam
allowance removed.
2. Draw three lines (this is only a
suggestion, you could use more or
less) down the length of your pattern,
roughly parallel to the center front.
Space them out, with roughly even
gaps between them.
3. You will be cutting these lines, to add
volume to the pattern. Wherever there
is a line, this is where more fabric will
be added - that's why it is best that
they are evenly spaced.
4. Take your scissors and cut along the
first guideline, from the hemline up
towards the waistline.

5. Do not cut all the way through the

pattern. Stop a few millimeters (1/16 in)
from the waistline, leaving a 1-2mm
"hinge" to keep the two pieces together.

HOW MUCH VOLUME TO ADD?

Think about how much volume you

want to add to the overall pattern. You may
want to do this by eye (just cut along the line
and then spread until it looks as though
enough volume has been added), or by an
exact amount. If you are just opening up a
hemline, I would say that doing it by eye is
fine. But if, for example, the hip-line of a
pattern is too tight and you are spreading the
pattern to accommodate this, then finding
an exact amount is better to avoid future
problems.
If you have found an
exact measurement, you will need to divide
this figure by four, as the volume will need
to be distributed between the four pieces that make up the skirt pattern (front right,
front left, back left and back right). Then divide the number again, by the number of
guidelines you have on your pattern piece.
For example, if you would like to add an overall 30cm to the hemline, you will be
adding 7.5cm to each pattern piece and 2.5 cm spread opening.

CUT AND SPREAD

6. Slide a separate piece of pattern

paper under your pattern, so that you
will have something to stick the
pattern to once you make the
adjustments. Spread the hemline by
the amount worked out in the
previous step. Use tape or glue to
secure in place.
7. Repeat process for the other lines,
spreading each opening by the same
amount as the first.

CHECK PATTERN

8. Redraw the waistline with a smooth

curve.
9. Redraw the hemline with a smooth
curve.

10. Check the hemline meets the side

seam and the center front with a right
angle. This will help you get a nice
smooth hemline between front and
back pattern pieces.

COMPLETE THE PATTERN

The pattern is done and you can

now add seam allowance. If the pattern
is a bit of a mess, with all that tape and
extra paper, then simply trace a copy
onto a separate piece of paper. There are a number of markings you should always add
to your pattern pieces. They help you with laying patterns on the fabric correctly when
cutting your fabric, and also help when sewing your garment together.
THE GRAINLINE

The grainline ensures that the pattern is placed on the fabric the right way. If
the grain is not straight (and it is intended to be), you may end up with a badly fitted
garment. The grainline usually runs vertically through a pattern, although in some
cases it will run horizontally or even diagonally (bias cut patterns). Arrows used to
indicate the top and bottom of the pattern
- this can help when you have a directional
print or a pattern piece that is an
unconventional shape.

The double arrow points towards

the top, and the single arrow points
towards the bottom. And also draw
grainlines so they run from one edge of the
pattern to the other, this is really hand
when using a striped fabric, to ensure your
placement is exactly right.

NOTCHES
Notches are small cuts in the fabric that guide you while you are sewing (they are also
commonly indicated with small triangles).
Notches are used to indicate:
• seam allowance
• dart arms
• the location of design details such as:
pleats, gathers or pockets
• the center front
• the center back
• balance points
Balance points are pointers on your pattern
that help you put pieces together correctly, as
well as help you when you are sewing a very
long, or curved seam.

For example, you tend to add a balance point

(or even two or three - depending on the length
of the seam) part way down a side seam to
ensure that the pieces are sewn together
correctly and you will not left with excess
fabric on one side of the seam at the end.
Balance points also help to prevent stretching
the seam when sewing. In the skirt block, for
example, the notch at the hip line acts as a
balance point.

A NOTCHING NO-NO
Try to avoid notching both sides of a corner as
this can weaken the fabric (as well as the
pattern itself).

DOUBLE NOTCHES
Double notches are normally used to
indicate the direction a piece should be sewn
in (and generally indicate the back of the
pattern piece). For example, a double notch is
used on a sleeve cap to indicate where the
sleeve cap meets the back armhole. In a side
panel, a double notch is also often used to
show where the piece meets with the
backpattern piece.

Use a double notch to indicate the end of a zip

(using a zip in the center back).
DRILL HOLES

Drill holes are used to indicate a dart point. I

prefer to place drill holes 1cm - 1.5cm up
from the actual dart point, so that when the
dart is sewn, the marking is hidden inside
the dart.
Drill holes can be used to indicate other
design features, such as:
• placement of patch pockets
• placement of belt loops
• or any other design feature that is in
an area where you are unable to mark a notch on a seam

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

Pattern instructions are your way of keeping track of, and identifying, pattern
pieces.

On each pattern piece, you should include:

• the name of the pattern

• the name of the pattern piece
• size
• cutting instructions
• number of pieces
• date

Some of these things may seem quite obvious, but the clearer your markings
are, the easier your pattern will be to use. Particularly if you decide to use the pattern
in a month, or even a year! If the instructions are clear, you won't waste any time trying
to remember the details of your pattern.

TECHNIQUES IN CUTTING FINAL PATTERN

Before cutting out, sort out all the pattern pieces that are required for the
item you are making. Check them to see if any have special cutting instructions. If
there are no more alterations to be made, just trim patterns to your size.

1. Identify which size to be used for different areas of your body. Use a colored pen and
trace the cutting lines.
2. Use a sharp pair of scissors in cutting the pattern. If you slip and make a cut where
you shouldn’t have, simply tape it back into place. The important thing is that the
shape is retained and that you can still read the markings. Cut carefully along the
cutting lines.

3. Check for seam allowances. Notice the grain lines. The word “directional” means
moving with the grain. In cutting garment pieces from fabric, look at the pattern
piece. You will notice that by cutting from wide to the narrow part of a piece, you cut
with less pull on the grain of the fabric. This is called directional cutting.

4. Use long, even stroke about 1 inch from the end of the blades of the shears. If you
close the blades with each stroke, the result cut edge will be choppy and uneven.

5. As you come to the notches (diamond-shaped marks) on the cutting line, cut them
around away from the pattern.

6. Trim multi-size pattern pieces. Single-size pattern pieces do not need to be cut to
shape; just cut around them roughly if there is excess tissue.
ANSWER IN ¼ SHEET OF PAPER
TO BE CHECK ON:
2:00-3:00PM FRIDAY
3:00-4:00PM MONDAY
MULTIPLE CHOICE
Directions: Write the letter of your choice that corresponds the correct answer. Write
your answer in your quiz notebook.

1. The V-shaped marking on a pattern piece used for aligning one piece with another.
These V-shaped cuts is taken to reduce seam bulk.
a. clip b. Notch c. cut edge d. seam allowance

2. These are dress construction symbols printed on a paper pattern to indicate the
fabric grain, fold line, and construction details, such as darts, notches, and tucks.
It should be transferred to the fabric using tailor’s chalk or tailor’s tacks. a. pattern
markings b. cut edge c. blue print d. seam allowance

3. The amount of fabric allowed for on a pattern where sections are to be joined
together by a seam; usually this is 5⁄8in (1.5 cm).
a. pattern markings b. Raw edge c. seamline d.seam allowance

4. The Line on paper pattern designated for stitching a seam; usually 5⁄8in (1.5/1 cm)
from the seam edge
a. pattern markings b. Raw edge c. seamline d. seam allowance

5. It gives the dressmaker a blueprint of what a garment will look like.

a. Sketching b. Measuring c. Pattern drafting d. Sewing

6. The strip of fabric fastened at the top of trousers or skirt that fits around the waist.
a. yoke b. waistband c. broad band d. scarf

7. Lay out and pin the pattern pieces on the cloth as ________ possible in prepare for
material cutting.
a. Economically b. Legitimately c. Probably d. Grateful

8. Which of the following measurements is taken from the fullest part of buttocks.
a. Crotch b. Waist c. Bust d. Hips

9. It is the exactness of a measured distance or circumference.

a. accuracy b. calculator c. Conversion d. calculation

10. To change of figures like changing from centimeters to inches and vice versa
a. accuracy b. calculator c. Conversion d. calculation

11. It is the adjustments made on pattern made the pattern is cut out
a. pattern accuracy c. pattern Conversion
b. pattern alteration d. calculation
12. The appropriate pattern markings used to indicate a dart point
a. drills a hole b. double notch c. slash/clip d. grainline
13. All except one is not part of pattern manipulation technique
a. slash and overlap c. fold the shorten & lengthen line
b. slash and spread d. clipping
14. The following are the information to be filled when labelling commercial pattern
except one.
a. name of owner c. sizing information
b. name of pattern piece d. cutting instructions

15. When is pattern alteration necessary?

a. When the pattern size is outgrown
b. When the pattern size is very big
c. When there’s a need to adjust the length and width of the pattern
all of the above