Make a Proton Pack!

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 Tools and Supplies
• Pattern: Found at the end of this PDF. When you print it, measure against the print guides to
know the scale is correct. ** When printing, make sure scale is set to ACTUAL SIZE**
Because I make my patterns to work on both A4 and U.S. letter paper, often Adobe Acrobat will
try and shrink the pages a little bit.
• 6-7 mm Thick Eva Foam Floor Mat: I used a mat that was 4ft x 8ft
• 1 inch PVC conduit: The inside diameter is 27mm (1”), the outside diameter is 33.5mm
• 2 inch ABS Pipe
• Paint Pen or Gel Pen: Used for any markings on the foam.
• Scissors
• Ruler

• Very Sharp Knife: If it is not really sharp you will have a terrible time when you are cutting the
foam. I use a surgical scalpel or utility knife. Use a brand new blade.

• Cutting Surface: Somewhere to cut where you won’t be destroying anything.

• 2 mm Thick Eva Foam: You can often find rolls of this stuff at craft stores. A roll is handy because
you can cut nice long strips from it. If you can find it in black, that’s the best - if a bit off paint gets
rubbed off during use, there won’t be some random colour showing through.
• Hot Glue Gun: I highly suggest a glue gun that has adjustable temperature. If you use a
temperature just a little bit higher than the melting point of the glue, you will have fewer burnt
fingers, and not have to hold pieces together as long while they cool.
• Heat Gun or Blowdryer: Used for heating and forming the foam.
• Gluing Surface: A surface that you don’t mind getting glue on. A silicone baking sheet is great
because hot glue doesn’t stick to it.
• Leather Punch: 4 mm and 12 mm diameter.
• Black Paint: Artists acrylics work reasonable well, though they can crack over time. If you want a
really durable, long lasting finish, I would suggest using a flexible paint, such as Plaid FX paints.
• Metallic paint: I used DecoArt Americana Metallics “Silver” mixed with “Pewter” for the silver
colour.
• Rubber Gloves: To wear while applying the metallic paints
• Scotch Brite abrasive pad: To roughen the plastic pipes for better paint adhesion
• Translucent Plastic: To go in front of the lights. Blue and Red are the colours you will want. I was
able to use some cheap folders I found.
• Skewers: Two sizes is good.
• LED lights (optional): I got mine from an old flashlight. Also some velcro is helpful if you need to
connect a battery pack

© 2021 Lost Wax Designs. All rights reserved.

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 ** You can find links to many of the supplies on my website and on my Amazon page**

***Some Really Important Safety Tips***

• Whenever you heat foam (with a heatgun or blowdryer) there is potential for the foam to
release harmful gases, so use a respirator and do it somewhere with good ventilation.
• Some EVA foam contains a chemical called formamide. There are some people that say
there isn't enough formamide in EVA mats to be harmful, and others that say there is. Do
your research and come to your own conclusions. At the least, I would say it is a good idea
to open your foam mat up and let it sit in the sun for a day or two, as most of the chemical
will off-gas from the foam. Or buy foam that is labelled formamide free.
• Sharp knives and hot glue can cause injury. Be sure to use in accordance with the
manufacturer's instructions.
• Disclaimer: If you rely on the information portrayed in these instructions, you do so at your
own risk and you assume the responsibility for the results. You hereby release Lost Wax
Designs from any and all actions, claims, or demands that you, your heirs, distributees,
guardians, next of kin, spouse or legal representatives now have, or may have in the future,
for injury, death, property damage, or any other liability that may result related to the
information provided in these instructions.

© 2021 Lost Wax Designs. All rights reserved.

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 Making the Pack
If you haven’t already, please refer to my video

Before We Start
This is not yet a completed and highly polished tutorial:) I am releasing it as I go, and kind of
working pretty fast to get it all done, so there are likely going to be some typos and other little
mistakes here and there. Also, there might be things I need to change, or better ways to do things
that I don’t know about yet! Just so ya know:)

1. Print and Assemble the Pattern

Watch here: Chapter 1
Print the pattern pages from the PDF. Make sure the scale is set to actual size or 100%. Some of
the pattern pieces are larger than one sheet of paper. For these, line up the “+” marks and tape the
sheets together. I find it is easier to line up the marks if I hold the papers up against a window so
that the light coming through the window allows me to see through to the lower registration marks.
**Make sure the scale is set to actual size in the settings when you print.**
After printing, measure the print guides with a ruler to verify that they are the correct size.

2. Transfer the Pattern to Your Foam

Use scissors to cut out the paper pattern, just barely leaving the black line visible. You will see
dotted lines on some of the pattern pieces. Do not cut on these lines at the moment.
You will notice that there are some pattern pieces inside the back plate piece, so hold off on cutting
those out until you have traced the back plate onto your foam.
Trace the back plate onto the 6 mm foam sheet.
Cut the speech bubble out of the back plate template.
Trace the speech bubble on 6 mm foam.
Cut the cyclotron pan pattern piece from inside the speech bubble, as well as the rest of the
pattern pieces that are inside the back plate.
Once all the pattern pieces are cut out, you can lay them out on your foam mat to get an idea of
how to make them fit as efficiently as possible. Each pattern piece has instructions on it as to what
thickness of foam to cut it from, how many times it will need to be traced and whether you will need
to flip the pattern piece over for the second tracing. Whenever you trace a flipped pattern piece, it
is helpful if you label it with a “B” so that you know which are which.
Most of the pieces are cut from the 6 mm foam, however there are some that are cut from 2 mm
thick craft foam. There are even some that are cut from both!

© 2021 Lost Wax Designs. All rights reserved.

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Carefully trace the pattern pieces onto the foam using either a light coloured gel pen or a paint
pen. The reason for this is that standard sharpies or ball point pens seep through whatever paint
goes over top of them.
Some of the dotted lines are places where you will need to cut a “V” cut partway through the foam.
Mark these lines to remind you of their placement. Most of the “V” cuts are on the back side of the
foam, so I like to put a little “flip over” arrow beside those lines so I don’t forget and cut on the
wrong side.
Piece 21 has one edge that needs to be cut at an inward angle, it is a good idea to mark that line
as well because it is easy to forget when you are cutting all the pieces out.
Also, pieces 20 and 21 both have extra cut lines to mark. These will get cut after being assembled.
First trace piece 20 and 21, then cut the pattern along the dotted lines, and then trace those lines
onto the foam as well.
Quick Tip
Keep your eyes out for ankle weights at your local thrift stores, they make great weights for
holding down uncooperative foam!

3. Cut the Foam

Using your sharp knife, cut directly on the lines. If the cuts look rough, that means your knife is too
dull. Either get a new blade or sharpen your knife. It’ll make a ton of difference. Also, you will get a
better quality cut by cutting along the same line a few times with moderate pressure rather than
trying to cut all the way through in one pass. I use a utility knife for straight and large radius cuts,
and I use a surgical scalpel with a #11 blade for tighter radius corners.
The only piece that needs to be cut at an angle is the bottom edge of piece 21. You can hold the
angle of piece 19 against the edge of your blade to give you an idea of what angle you need to
hold your knife.
The other cuts need to be as square as possible. I find that holding a square or the end of a ruler
up against my knife blade every once in a while really helps my brain know what a nice vertical cut
feels like.
**Remember to watch where your fingers are at all times and make sure you don’t cut them!

4. A Bit About Gluing

I use hot glue for my projects now, as I am a bit leery of breathing the fumes that go along with
contact cement. It takes a little more practice, but you can still get very good results. The choice
really is up to you. If you use quality contact cement, you will end up with a slightly more durable
costume, particularly if it will be in hot places where hot glue could melt.
One thing that can really make life easier is to use a hot glue gun with adjustable temperature.
That way you can turn the temperature down so it is just above the melting point of the glue. You
don’t need to hold things as long, there are less fumes, and you don’t get burned as easily!
I like to glue a section about 5 cm long and hold it together until the glue cools. This time can vary
depending on how hot your glue gun is, but for me it is about 30 seconds. The number one reason

© 2021 Lost Wax Designs. All rights reserved.

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people have problems with hot glue is that they are just not holding the parts together long enough,
so, if in doubt, hold the parts together a little longer.
If there is a long piece to glue, it is best to glue both ends so they line up properly first, then glue
the rest of the seam in the centre. This reduces any errors due to the stretchable nature of the
foam.
Hot glue sticks well to EVA foam, however foam that has a heat sealed texture is too smooth for
the glue to grip, so if you are using foam with a texture on one side, every time you want to glue to
that textured surface, you will need to sand the foam with a coarse sandpaper - around 50 or 80
grit.
** If you do use hot glue to make your proton pack, be careful not to leave it out in the sun
on a hot day, or in a hot car because the glue will melt, leaving you with a hot mess! **

If you have problems getting clean seams with hot glue, one thing you can do is wait until the seam
is cool and them rub along the seam with a piece of scrap foam. This softens the glue and allows
you to rub away the excess.
You will also see me sometimes wipe the hot glue off the foam seam before it completely cools. I
am able to do this without burning my fingers because my glue gun is set to a low temperature and
I have a fair bit of experience knowing how long to wait. I think it produces the best results, but do
so at your own risk!
I have a helpful video about how to use hot glue for foam here.

5. Assemble the Crank Generator

You’ll need: Pieces 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7
Watch here: Chapter 2
The crank generator is made of three sections: the big box, the little box, and the hallway. They will
be made separately and then glued together.

The Big Box

Mark the dotted V groove lines on the back of piece 5.
Cut the “V” grooves on the back of piece 5.
You want the V groove to go a little more than halfway through the foam without actually cutting all
the way through. Start with your knife a millimetre or two to one side of the line and angle the blade
towards the line. Make a couple of light cuts like this and then go to the other side of the line and
repeat the process, angling the other way. You basically want the deepest, pointiest part of the
groove to end up directly under the line.
If you have not done this type of cut before, I would recommend trying a few on some scrap foam
until you feel comfortable with it.
Sand the back of piece 5.

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Glue piece 4 onto the back of piece 5, It should fit between the V groove and the end of the piece,
lining up with the outside edge.
Apply glue in the V groove as well as beside it, where the edge of piece 4 will touch.
Bend the foam into a 90 degree angle, bending at the V groove. Hold it in position until the glue is
cool.
Repeat the process for the second piece 5.
Sand the back of both piece 4s that you just glued.
Mark the top of both piece 2s. Piece 2 is a little tricky because one side of it slants in towards the
top, so it is important that they get glued right side up!
Sand the back of piece both piece 2s along the top.
Glue piece (4+5) to piece 2, with the shorter segment resting on the top edge. Start by gluing the
corner in place, and then work your way down the sides and across the top.
Glue the other piece (4+5) on the other side of piece 2. There should be a gap in the centre top of
the box, that’s what we want.
Glue the second piece 2 on the other side, completing the box with the hole on top.
Squeeze glue along the top edge of piece 2 on both sides, just on the inside where the gap in the
top is. Also squeeze glue in from the back of the box, onto the back of the piece 4s.
Place piece 3 in from the back, closing the hole in the box. Flip the box right side up and make
sure that piece 3 is nice and flush with the top edge of piece 2 where it is visible.
Clean up any messy glue seams by rubbing with some scrap foam.

The Little Box

Mark and cut the V grooves on the back of piece 7.
Apply glue in the grooves and hold them at a right angles until the glue cools. This should give you
a piece that looks like a flattened “U” .
Glue piece 6 into piece 7, starting at one corner and working your way around.
Glue the other piece 6 into piece 7 on the other side, completing the box.
Depending on the exact placement of your V grooves, the bottom edges might not line up quite
perfectly. This is not too hard to fix, as long as you do it before you have glued all the way down
the sides. You can either stretch or compress the foam as you go, making up for sides that are too
short or too long.

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The Hallway
Mark and cut the V grooves on the back of piece 8.
Apply glue in the grooves and hold them at a right angles until the glue cools.

Putting it all together to make a crank generator

Hold the big box with piece 2 facing you, the large opening to the bottom, and with the angled
edge on the right. I just want to make sure you don’t glue the other pieces to the wrong side of this
box :)
With the big box positioned as mentioned, line up one edge of the hallway with the left edge of the
big box. Glue that edge.
Use a square or something similar to square up the other, unglued vertical edge of the hallway
with the bottom of the big box. Mark where that edge is on the big box.
Glue the top and the edge you just marked to the big box.
Glue the little box onto the hallway. This time line up the right side of the hallway with the right
side of the little box. This works best if you apply the glue to the entire hallway edge and then put
them together. It’s also a good idea to do this on a flat surface to keep everything lined up.
If you want to have rounded edges on the crank generator for better costume accuracy, you can
use a rotary tool with an abrasive wheel to round them off.
Set the crank generator on the backplate to make sure that it fits properly. There is a notched out
section on the top and the side which should line up with the corners of the crank generator.

6. The Part That Has No Name

You’ll need: Pieces 9, 10, 11
Glue the short, flat sections of piece 9 and 10 together.
Glue piece 11 overtop of the join between piece 9 and 10. It should match the pieces below it.

7. The Power Cell

You’ll need: Pieces 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17
Watch here: Chapter 4
Power Cell Support Box
• Sand the backs of pieces 12 and 13.
• Create the ends of the power cell support box by gluing one piece 13 to each end of piece 12.
These are glued on top of piece 12 rather than beside.
• Glue the two piece 14s on the other two sides to complete the box.
The Power Cell

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Be aware that piece 15 is wider on one side of the cutout section than the other. It is important that
the wider side is the side that will face the outside when it is positioned on the power cell support
box. Also it is important that you mark the top of piece 17 as well.
• Glue the front of piece 15 to the top of piece 17.
• Glue piece 16 to piece 15 and 17. It should be glued to the wider side of piece 15. You just made
the power cell.
The power cell will sit on the bottom left corner of the support box. Set it in place and trace the
rectangular cutout onto the support box.
Remove the power cell and draw a line slightly wider around the line you just traced.
Cut a slot in the support box, following the wider line.
Cut a strip of blue translucent plastic, slightly wider and longer than the hole you just cut.
Glue the strip over the hole in the power cell support box.
Glue the power cell into place on the corner of the support box. It is a good idea to turn up your
glue gun a bit for this, because you need to apply glue to all three sides of the power cell, and get it
positioned before any of the glue starts to cool.
Using the circular holes on the front of the power cell as a template, cut them all the way through
into the power cell support box.
Place the paper pattern piece 17 on the back of the box in line with the holes at the front. Trace
only the hole closest to the top, and cut it out.

8. Pipes and Holes

You’ll need: PVC conduit, power cell
Cut a 39 cm (15.35”) long piece of 1” PVC conduit.
Make a mark at 11.5 cm and one at 22 cm from one end of the conduit.
Draw a straight line between those marks.
Along the straight line, make a mark every centimetre.
Using a 4 mm drill bit, drill a hole at every mark.
Slide the conduit into the power cell, all the way until it goes into the hole at the back of the support
box. Turn it until the line of holes is facing the translucent blue plastic window. The idea is that you
can drop a glow stick down the tube, and the holes will allow the light to come through, making it
look like there are individual lights.
Cut a 20 cm piece of 1” PVC conduit.
Push it in through the bottom hole in the power cell until the front edge lines up with the front edge
of the first pipe.
Drill a hole through both pipes from the back, just outside of the power cell. Screw a screw into that
hole that is long enough to go almost all the way through both pipes. It needs to be this long
because this screw will also serve to stop the glow stick from falling all the way through the pipe.

© 2021 Lost Wax Designs. All rights reserved.

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Drill another hole through both pipes near the other end as well.
Remove both pipes from the box.
Use an abrasive pad to slightly roughen the PVC pipe in order to help for paint adhesion later.
Countersink the screw holes on the back of the PVC pipes.
Put the pipes back into the power cell and screw them together.
Apply glue to the hole at the back of the power cell support box and then push the pipe into the
hole.
Glue the front edge of the pipe from the inside of the box.

9. The Ramp
You’ll need: Pieces 18, 19, 20, 21, 44, PVC Conduit
Watch here: Chapter 5
Mark and cut the V groove on the back of piece 21. This cut doesn’t need to be quite as wide
because the foam is not being bent all the way to 90 degrees.
Verify that the bottom edge of piece 21 is cut at an angle like it is supposed to be.
Piece 20 gets glued to the top edge of piece 21.
Glue piece 19 and 19b so that the long edge matches up to the long edge of piece 20. This makes
the ramp.
Glue the short edge along the top of the ramp.
Apply glue to the V cut and hold it at the correct angle while it cools.
Glue the rest of piece 21 to the angled edges of piece 19.
Use a ruler to extend the cut out lines across the side of piece 19.
Cut a 77 mm long piece of PVC with one end cut at a 45 degree angle. I include a paper template
to help make a 45 degree line on the PVC pipe. Just wrap it around the pipe and line up the edges
before tracing.
Sand both ends of the PVC pipe smooth, and rub it with an abrasive pad.
Glue the angled end of the PVC pipe down onto a sheet of 2 mm foam.
Cut around the pipe end, trying to keep the blade following the angle of the pipe. It’s not that easy
to do, and I had to clean up the edges of the 2 mm foam a bit afterwards.
Cut along the cut lines at the top corner of the ramp. This is to allow the angled pipe to sit in that
cut out. Make sure when cutting on the angled the section of the ramp that you keep your knife
parallel to the bottom edge of the ramp. You may also need to angle the cut on the outside edge
afterwards.
Glue the PVC into the cutout. The flat edge should be flush with the back of the ramp, and the front
edge should extend a little ways past the front of the ramp.
Glue a piece 44 into the back hole of the PVC.
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Glue the ramp beside the the power cell. It should be flush with the edge of the support box, with
maybe a little gap between it and the power cell. Glue the front edge down first, and make sure it is
totally cooled before you try to glue more. Glue the inside edges down as best you can - this
involves pivoting the ramp up to allow glue gun access to that edge. Once the inside edge is glued,
gluing the outside edge is easy.
Glue a piece 44 in the bottom end of each of the pipes coming out of the power cell.
Glue a piece 18 over top of the piece 44 in the end of each pipe. The extra foam thickness is to
add some strength because wires will be getting glued into the pipe ends eventually.
Use your glue gun to create a weld-bead effect around the ends of the pipes.

10. The Grain Elevator

You’ll need: Pieces 22, 23, 24, 25
Watch here: Chapter 6
Mark and cut the V groove on the back of piece 24.
Cut the V groove on the front of piece 24.
Glue the straight sides of piece 22 and 22b onto piece 23.
Apply glue on the front V groove on piece 24 and hold it in position against the rest of the grain
elevator until it cools.
Apply glue on the back V groove on piece 24 and hold it in position until it cools.
Glue piece 24 to the rest of the grain elevator.
Glue piece 25 on top.

11. The Speech Bubble

You’ll Need: Pattern piece 27, 6 mm foam, speech bubble (piece 26)
Watch here: Chapter 7
Cut two long strips of 6 mm foam the width of pattern piece 27. I cut them each 4 feet long.
Line up the end of piece 27 with the end of one of the strips and mark the cut lines on the front.
From the last cut line measure another 48 cm (18.9”) and cut the strip to that length.
Repeat this to make a second strip, but this time you only need to add 28 cm (11”) past the last cut
line.
Get a few old gift cards and make a stack on either side of the strip. I used a stack of two cards on
each side and that seemed quite good. Remove the blade from your utility knife and hold it straight
across the foam so that when it cuts down, both ends will be stopped by the gift cards at the same
time. Use a sawing motion to cut straight down on the lines until you hit the gift cards. Repeat for
all the cut lines on both strips.
On the pattern for the speech bubble, there is an “edge strips meet here” arrow. Mark that on your
foam speech bubble.

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Glue the longer strip to the outside edge of the speech bubble, starting in the centre of the
segment you just marked and lining up each cut in the strip with each corner going around the
bottom edge. The longer strip will start at the bottom and go counter clockwise up and around the
narrow section of the speech bubble until it gets to the right angle corner.
Trim the longer strip right in line with the corner where it ends. It’s a good idea to use a square to
mark this cut so that you end up with a nice perpendicular edge at the end.
Back at the bottom of the speech bubble, glue the shorter edge strip to the end of the longer edge
strip and continue gluing the strip clockwise around the speech bubble, lining it all up the same
way you did with the longer strip.
When the shorter strip gets all the way to the corner, glue the side of it to the end of the long strip.
Again, make sure that you are gluing it perpendicular to the speech bubble.
Cut a 63 cm (24.8”) long strip of foam from the leftovers of the side strips. Glue it in a loop and glue
that loop in the centre of the speech bubble. This is just to give some extra support from the inside
so that the foam doesn’t cave in.

12. The Cyclotron Pan

You’ll need: 6 mm foam, pattern piece 29, Cylotron Pan (piece 28), Speech Bubble, LED
bulbs, velcro
Cut a strip of 6 mm foam the width of piece 29 and 63 cm (24.8”) long.
Glue the strip to the edge of the cyclotron pan, lining up the beginning of the strip with the edge
of the half circle cut out. Glue about 3/4 of the way around, and then glue the other end of the
strip to the other edge of the cut-out. This makes it easier to make sure that the edge strip will
end in the right place, and then you can stretch or compress the foam as you glue the remaining
area.
If you want a rounded edge, you can do that with a rotary tool now.
Put the speech bubble template that has the cyclotron pan cut out of it onto the foam speech
bubble. Trace the location of the cyclotron pan.
Place the cyclotron pan template in its position on the speech bubble. Mark the centre of each of
the four holes.
Use a 4 mm punch to punch holes where you made the marks. It’s a lot easier to punch the holes
with a firm surface to punch into. I used a peanut butter jar so that it was raised off the table and
wouldn’t damage the sides of the speech bubble.
Get some LED bulbs. (I got mine from an old flashlight)
Wire up the LEDs and push one through each 4 mm hole. (I’ll leave the electronics lesson to
someone else, I know just enough to be dangerous:))
Glue the LEDs from behind and glue the wires down as well.
I found my LEDs were much too blue, so I used a translucent red folder and cut some discs from
it that I glued over top of the LEDs.

© 2021 Lost Wax Designs. All rights reserved.

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Cut a hole in the centre of the back plate. This is where you can store the battery pack for the
LEDs. I just put a bit of velcro on the battery pack and some velcro in the hole.

13. Put it Together

You’ll need: Back plate, All the assembled parts
Watch here: Chapter 8
It’s time to take all the separate components and put them all together! Before you start gluing, it’s
a really good idea to lay out all the pieces on the back plate and make sure they are all going to
actually fit together properly. If not, it’s better to know now than later.
Assembling the parts is much easier if done from the back, so flip everything over and get ready!
Start by gluing the piece that has no name to the speech bubble. Try to keep all the edges flush
on the back so that it will be easier when you need to glue on the back plate.
Glue the power cell support box to the piece that has no name. Start at the inside corner and
work your way out from there.
Glue the crank generator to the side of the power cell, then glue the bottom edge of the crank
generator to the edge of the piece that has no name.
Now that all the pieces are together, you need to glue it to the back plate. Set it on the back plate
and make sure everything is still going to fit.
Start gluing at the bottom of the speech bubble, on the flat facets. Line them up with the flat edges
on the back plate.
Once you run out of flat facets, flip the pack upside down. Lift the back plate away from the pack
so that you can get your glue gun in there. Glue a section at a time, gluing from the back, then
turning the pack over and pressing down from the front on a flat surface until the glue cools. This is
so that the pack has the best chance of staying nice and flat.
The only place the pack doesn’t sit on top of the backplate is the little piece in front of the power
cell. It extends lower than the rest of the pack and butts up to the side of the back plate.

14. More Pipe.

You’ll need: ABS pipe
Cut a 3 pieces of 2 inch ABS pipe. One 6 cm (2.3”) long, one 9 cm (3.5”) long and one 24 cm (9.4”)
long, with a 45 degree angle cut on one end.
Use an abrasive pad to prep the pipes for painting.

15. Add a Filter

You’ll need: Pieces 30, 31, 32, ABS pipe, Cyclotron Pan

Glue piece 30 on top of the 9 cm pipe.

© 2021 Lost Wax Designs. All rights reserved.

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Wrap piece 31 around the bottom of the pipe. To get a nice smooth foam wrap, don’t use too much
glue, and try to spread it out as thinly as possible so that it doesn’t create bumps in the surface.
When it is glued halfway around, check to make sure the ends will meet up. If not you might be
able to stretch or trim the piece a little to make it work.
Glue strip 32 around the top, covering the edge of the foam cap nicely.
The pattern strip for piece 32 also has markings on it for the holes that need to be be drilled. Wrap
it around the area of pipe that is not covered by foam, and centre it in the middle.
Use a sharp pointy object to mark the centre of all the drill holes through the paper.
Drill a small pilot hole through all the marks you made.
Drill out the pilot holes with a 10 mm (3/8”) drill bit.
Glue the finished filter in the circular cut-out in the cyclotron pan. Make sure when you glue the
sides of the pan to the filter that they are being glued nice and square to the bottom.
Glue the cyclotron pan down to the speech bubble. Start by applying glue to the entire bottom rim
of the filter and setting it in place. Then glue around the pan, lifting the edge of the pan slightly to
allow space to get the glue gun in there.

16. Other Bits

You’ll need: Pieces 18, 30, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38; pattern piece 45; 6 mm foam; ABS pipe;
translucent red plastic
Glue piece 18 on top of piece 30.
Glue that little stack on the top of the 6 cm ABS pipe.
Glue the 6 cm pipe onto the side of the crank generator, just above the little box. I located mine in
about the middle of the crank generator, but when I was wiring it all up, I figured it probably should
go just a little higher.
Use pattern piece 42 to trace 4 discs from translucent red plastic.
Glue those discs over the holes in the cyclotron pan.
It’s really hard to paint the thin edge of a piece of 2 mm foam without getting paint on stuff you
don’t want it on, so it’s a good idea to paint the cyclotron light washers (piece 33) before you glue
them down over the translucent red plastic. Give them 3 good coats of black paint. Once dry, you
can glue them over the holes on the cyclotron.
Cut a 72 cm long strip of 6 mm foam, the width of piece 45.
Cut a slight concave curve into the end so that it will butt up against the filter.
Glue the strip all the way around the bottom edge of the cyclotron pan, until it reaches the filter
again.
Cut the end of the strip so it will fit against the filter.
Glue 2 piece 44s side by side on top of the ramp.

© 2021 Lost Wax Designs. All rights reserved.

14
Glue piece 35 on top of piece 34, and glue that stack on the speech bubble, right at the top. This
makes the hose connection base.
Glue piece 38 on top of piece 37, and piece 36 on top of piece 38. This makes the Clippard base.
Glue that stack a bit below the first one, just at the point that it will fit inside the edges of the
speech bubble.

17. So Many Strips

You’ll need: Pattern pieces 5, 7, 15, 46, foam strips
Watch here: Chapter 9
Cut a bunch of strips the width of piece 46. These strips will be added to the crank generator and
the power cell.
Use the faint dotted lines on piece 5 to mark the placement of the strips on the crank generator big
box. The top of piece 5 has the markings for the upper section of the big box, and the bottom half
of piece 5 has the markings for the lower half of the big box. If you line up the dotted line on piece
46 with the top edge of the crank generator, you can use the end of that pattern piece to mark how
far the strips will protrude onto the top of the box.
Once you have the strips locations marked, glue them onto the big box. Start by gluing the strip in
place at the top, then bring it down around the edge and finally cut it flush with the bottom. The top
strips on the upper section of the big box go all the way down to the back, but the two strips on the
side of the upper section just go partway down.
On the lower section of the big box, there is just one strip centred on each side, and then the ones
at the bottom are just rectangles that don’t actually go past the top edge.
Use the faint dotted lines on piece 7 to mark the location of the strips on the crank generator little
box. The strips on the little box overlap farther than the ones on the big box. Make the overlap
marks 3.4 cm (1.3”) from the edge. Three strips get glued down the outside edge of the little box,
and then one strip on the front edge. The end of this strip meets up flush with the edge of one of
the strips from the outside edge.
Use the faint dotted lines on piece 15 to mark the location of the strips on the power cell. These
overlap the same amount as the ones on the big box did. The slight difference with this one is that
the first strip goes on the front of the power cell and is cut flush with the top of the cell, rather than
folding over onto it. The second strip goes on the side, covering the edge of the first strip as it folds
over it onto the top. You may have to trim a couple millimetres off the front strip so there is enough
room for it beside the PVC pipes. The back strip needs to be cut into an inverted “L” shape in order
to fit around the support box. Then the last side strip can go on over top of it.

18. And More Bits

You’ll need: Pieces 39, 40, 41, 47, 48, PVC conduit, ABS pipe
Cut a piece of 1” PVC the same length as piece 47. Sand the ends and use the abrasive pad.
Glue the PVC pipe into the depression between the two halves of the big box.
© 2021 Lost Wax Designs. All rights reserved.
15
Glue piece 47 on the upper section of the big box, lined up with, and right up against the PVC pipe.
Punch a 12 mm disc from 6 mm thick foam and glue it on the protruding section of piece 48.
Glue piece 48 on the upper section of the big box, centred between piece 47 and the edge strips.
Glue piece 40 on top of piece 39. Glue piece 41 on top of piece 40. Apply glue inside the flat end of
the 24 cm ABS pipe, and slide the foam stack you just made into the end of the tube. Push it in
until it is sitting a couple of mm lower than the edge of the pipe.
Apply glue generously to the bottom of the ABS pipe as well as around the 45 degree cut. Place
the ABS tube on top of the support box and press the angled section up against the ramp. Hold it
until it cools.

19. Speech Bubble Bottom

You’ll need: Pieces 51, 57, 58
Watch here: Chapter 10
You should have ten 2 mm thick piece 51s. Glue one over each flat facet at the bottom of the
speech bubble. Line them up flush with the back of the pack. Their top edge should be just slightly
lower than the top edge of the speech bubble. The only flat facet that doesn’t get a 2 mm thick
piece 51 is the one at the bottom that has the extra tab sticking out.
There are also two 6 mm thick piece 51s. If you look at the pattern for piece 51, one of the pieces
is cut shorter than the other. Glue the shorter against the speech bubble facet, so that it sits on the
tab. The second, longer piece 51 gets glued over top of that piece and the tab.
Glue together two piece 57s. Cut the top edge at an angle. Glue piece 58 over the angled section
and down the other side. Trim piece 58 flush at the bottom. We’ll call this the battery pack. Glue
the battery pack on top of the third facet down on the left side, flush with the back of the pack.

© 2021 Lost Wax Designs. All rights reserved.

16
20. Grain Elevator Bits
You’ll need: Pieces 52, 53, 54, 55, Grain Elevator
Cut score lines across piece 52, following the dotted lines. Try to make sure you don’t cut all the
way through the foam when you do this.
Heat piece 52 with a heat gun to open up the score lines.
Before piece 52 cools, wrap it around a thick marker to help it hold a round shape.
Glue piece 53 into each end of piece 52, giving it a dome shape. Glue that piece to the flat side of
the grain elevator about 3.5 cm (1.3”) from the top.
Make 5 or 6 score lines across piece 55, going the length of it.
Heat piece 55 with a heat gun to open up the score lines.
Glue piece 55 on top of piece 54. Glue this onto the other side of the grain elevator, above the
angled section.
There are a couple of metal rods that go into the grain elevator. You can use a pencil and paint it
with a metallic paint, or if you happen to have some copper tape, you can wrap that around your
pencil for a more realistic metallic look.
On the front side of the grain elevator, at the upper right corner, cut a hole slightly smaller than
your pencil. Push a full length pencil as far as you can into that hole.
On the back side of the grain elevator in the opposite top corner, make another hole and stick an 8
cm (3”) long pencil into it. Inside the grain elevator your two pencils should be side by side.
Turn the grain elevator upside down and drip some hot glue down onto the pencils far below.
Glue the grain elevator onto the upper left corner of the proton pack, with the angled section facing
outward.

21. The Ladder

You’ll need: Ladder (piece 50), skewers
Watch here: Chapter 11
Cut three parallel V grooves running vertically on each side of the ladder.
On the backside of the ladder, cut a V groove in the top and bottom horizontal rungs, The V groove
shouldn’t go all the way to the edge though. Gut a strong toothpick, or thin skewer down to fit and
then glue one in each slot. This is to strengthen the ladder so it’s not flopping all over the place.
Get two slightly larger wooden dowels or skewers, trim them to the length of the ladder, and cut the
ends at an angle.
Glue the dowels vertically on the front of the ladder right beside the openings.
Glue the ladder to the top of the 24cm ABS pipe about 1cm below the Grain Elevator.

© 2021 Lost Wax Designs. All rights reserved.

17
22. More Pipes
You’ll need: PVC conduit, pieces 44, 18, 56
Cut 4 PVC pipes the following lengths:
• 121 mm (4.7”)
• 115 mm (4.5”)
• 70 mm (2.75”)
• 55 mm (2”)
On the 115 mm pipe, glue a piece 44 into one end, and cover that with a piece 18.
On the 121 mm pipe, glue a piece 18 on one end.
Glue piece 56 on top of a 6 mm thick piece 18, and glue that on top of the 55 mm pipe. This
contraption gets glued into the Clippard base which has piece 36 at the top.
The 70 mm pipe gets glued into the Hose Connection Base, just above the Clippard.
The 115 mm pipe gets glued on top of the piece that has no name, just a little bit out from the
corner of the speech bubble.
The 121 mm pipe gets glued a couple millimetres to the left of the piece that has no name, and
slightly lower down than the 115 mm tube.

23. The Cyclotron Belt

You’ll need: Pieces 42, 43, 59, 60, 61, 62, circular piece
Watch here: Chapter 12
Mark the V grooves on the backs of pieces 59 and 60.
Glue piece 59 on top of piece 60, with the longer strip of piece 59 overlapping the shorter strip of
piece 60.
Cut the V groove on the back of piece 60. This cut goes all the way through piece 60 and partway
through piece 59.
You want to taper the foam down from the V groove to where piece 60 ends. I found it worked best
to start at the end of piece 60 and then cut angled up towards the V groove. It doesn’t have to be
very pretty as it won’t really be seen.
Cut the V groove on the back of piece 59.
Check that the V grooves allow the belt to bend enough to match the side profile of piece 62. If so,
apply glue into the V groove on piece 60 and hold it in place until it cools.
Glue piece 62 to the side of the belt, lining up the bottom surface of the belt with the bottom edge
of piece 62. When you get up to the second V groove, glue it and hold it in place, then continue
gluing piece 62 along the side.
Glue piece 62b on the other side.

© 2021 Lost Wax Designs. All rights reserved.

18
The other end of the belt is simpler because it just consists of a smooth curve. Glue piece 61 along
the belt edge, lining up the bottom surface of the belt with the bottom edge of piece 61. Repeat for
the other side.
Glue any random circular piece in the centre of the cyclotron.
Hold the belt over the cyclotron and trace lightly around it. Now you know where you need to paint
before gluing the belt in place. Once the belt is on, it will be very hard to get a paintbrush
underneath there. Just don’t paint on the random circle you just glued on.
Glue the belt down onto the centre disk, and then onto the first facet on each side.
Make a stack of disks, alternating disk 42 and 43. Use seven 42s and six 43s.
Glue this stack to the centre of the cyclotron belt.

24. To Be Continued…
That’s all for now! Stay tuned for the next video and pattern updates where I’ll talk more about
finishing off the pack.

I would love to see your finished Proton Pack! Feel free to send me pics here:
[email protected]
or post them on Instagram and tag me #lostwaxoz

If you have any problems or questions, don’t hesitate to email me at:

[email protected]

Thanks so much for your support!

-Chris

© 2021 Lost Wax Designs. All rights reserved.

19
 Top section
1 cm

3
Crank Generator
V cut on backside Big Box
5 cm

Top
Crank Generator
Print Guides

Big Box
(folds over top)
Crank Generator
Big Box
Cut 2 from 6mm foam Piece for extra thickness

4
5 Cut 2 from 6mm foam
 Bottom

Crank Generator
Little Box
Sides
Cut 2 from 6mm foam

2
Sides
Big Box
(one flipped)

Crank Generator
6
Cut 2 from 6mm foam

Bottom Top

1 Inch
14
Power Cell Support Box

1 Inch
Sides
Cut two from 6mm foam
 12
Power Cell Support Box
Top
Cut one from 6mm foam

1 Inch

5 cm

1 Inch
1 cm

Print Guides
 Top

15

Power Cell Front

Power Cell

Cut 1 from 6mm foam

Side

Cut 1 from 6mm foam

Cut 1 from 6mm foam

17
16
Power Cell

1 Inch
Top

1 Inch

Print Guides
13 5 cm

Power Cell Support Box

Ends
1 cm

Cut 2 from 6mm foam

Cyclotron Pan Side

63cm long
29
 5 cm

1 cm Print Guides vertical cut on front side

Grain Elevator
Cut 1 from 6mm foam
Back
V cut on front side
vertical cut on front side

V cut on backside
23 27
vertical cut on front side

Grain Elevator
Front
Cut 1 from 6mm foam
vertical cut on front side

24

Ramp Sides vertical cut on front side

Cut 2 from 6mm foam

(one flipped)
19
vertical cut on front side
Continue strip A 28 cm Continue strip B 48 cm
from this line from this line
 drill 10mm (3/8) holes
Filter top wrap and hole gauge
32
cut one strip from 2mm foam (not with holes)

Cut 1 from 2mm foam

30
HGA Cap
Filter Cap&

Cut 2 from 6mm foam

31

49
Or use 12mm punch
Filter wrap

Knob

56
48
Crank

Cut 1 from 6mm

Cut 1 from 6mm
45 Cyclotron Pan Rim 72 cm long

Side Strips 46

51
Cut 1 from 6mm foam
Bottom edge
rectangles
Cut 10 from 2mm foam
Cut 1 from 6mm foam

Tube Flap
Cut 1 from 2mm foam

Rainbow Cable flange

Cut 1 from 6mm foam
Cut 1 from 6mm foam
of this shorter length 47

63
50
The Ladder
 Cut 2 from 2mm foam (one flipped)
Battery Pack
Cover
Battery Pack Cyclotron Belt Edge B
58
57 Cut 1 from 2mm foam

Cut 2 from 6mm foam

62
61

Cyclotron Belt Part B

Cut 2 fro
m 2mm fo
a m (o n

59

V cut on back side

Cyclotron Belt Edge A

e flipped
)

Part A Cut 1 from 6mm foam

foam
 52 Cut 1 from2mm foam

53

6mm
Cut 2 from
Battery Pa
57
Cut 2 from 6mm f

on 1" PVC pipe

54
Cut 1 from 6mm
V cut on back side

Template for cutting a 45 degree angle

55
Cut 1 from 6mm Cyclotron Belt Part A

60
V cut on back side
Cut 1 from 6mm foam
 1
Backplate

10
Cut 1 from 6mm foam

11
Cut 1 from 6mm foam

Clippard Base ring Lower

37
 Cut 1 from 6mm foam

9
Hose connection Base
upper

ate
35

Cut 1 from 2mm foam

Clippard Base ring upper

38
m foam Cut 1 from 6mm foam
booster top

40
Cut 1 from
2mm foam

shock mount
shock mount
43
42 Cut 6 from
2mm foam
Cut 7 from
2mm foam

booster top

26 41
Cut 1 from 2mm foam
Cut 2 from 6mm foam

7
 Clippard Base ring Lower

37
Side

Cut 1 from 2mm foam

Cut 1 from 6mm

foam
36
7

booster top
Cut 1 from 6mm foam
V cut on backside

39
Cut 1 from 6mm foam

Crank Generator
Little Box
Top

V cut on backside

28
Cyclotro
Cut 1 from 6m
Side
 shock mount
shock mount
43
42 Cut 6 from
2mm foam
Cut 7 from
2mm foam

booster top

26 41
Cut 1 from 2mm foam
Cut 2 from 6mm foam

7
Cut 1 from 6mm
foam

6
Speech Bubble
Cut 1 from 6mm foam

28
Cyclotron Pan
Cut 1 from 6mm foam
 28
Cyclotro
Cut 1 from 6m
Side

cyclotron light washers

33

Cut 4 from
2mm foam

Hose connection base Edge strips m

Lower

34
V cut on backside

Crank G
Cut 1 from 6mm foam
8 Ha
Cut 1 from
 28
Cyclotron Pan
Cut 1 from 6mm foam

1 Inch

5 cm
Edge strips meet here

1 Inch
1 cm

Print Guides
V cut on backside

V cut on backside

Crank Generator
Hallway
Cut 1 from 6mm foam