PRE-FINAL-NOTES Forensic
PRE-FINAL-NOTES Forensic
SENSITIZED MATERIAL
Sensitized material refers to films and papers which are composed of emulsion containing SILVER
HALLIDE crystals suspended by gelatin and coated on a transparent or reflective support.
FILM
A film consists basically of a random scattering of light sensitive silver halides suspended in a layer
of animal gelatin which is coated onto support or base.
Parts of Film
Emulsion
It is a light sensitive material which is suspension of silver salts, usually silver halides, in a gelatin
that has been coated on glass of plastic base. The incident light causes a chemical reaction to produce a latent
or invisible image.
Base
It holds and supports the emulsion.
Super coat: the super coat is like the anti-scratch layer of the film and it protects the emulsion.
Emulsion: the emulsion layer contains the silver halide crystals necessary for forming the visible
image. The photographic emulsion is usually 10 to 30 micrometers (1 millionth of a meter) thick.
The emulsion is more specifically a gelatin layer on top of the fiber base. The crystals also contain
some impurities such as silver sulfide and some free-moving silver ions. These are added to increase
the photosensitivity.
Adhesive: the adhesive layer attaches the emulsion layer to the fiber base.
Base: The fiber base usually consists of polyester or triacetate. This layer differs from the base layer
of film because it is not transparent.
Color film
The negative in this type of film is derived into blocks and is color positive. It is composed of
hue dyes.
In between the blue and green hues, yellow gelatin is placed so that the hue rays of lights would
not be affect the green hue and in between green and the red dye, magenta gelatin is placed so
that the green rays of light would not affect the red dye of the emulsion.
Panchromatic Film
A film which are sensitive to visible light of all colors including red. Such films are also
sensitive to invisible ultra violet-rays. As a general rule will make black & white legal
photographs with visible light, panchromatic film should be used.
Panchromatic film really the ordinary film today. When used with the proper filter over the lens
panchromatic film is capable of reproducing a scene of object in black and white exactly as it
affect to the eye in color.
Orthochromatic Film
Film that is sensitive to UV rays, blue and green colors, but not to red. Red portions are recorded
as dark tones, while green and blue parts appear as light tones when printed.
This type of film is popular in the market as the KODALITH FILM.
Infrared Film
A special type of film that is sensitive to infrared and ultra-violet radiation (radiation beyond the
human eye’s sensitive). It is also sensitive to all the colors found in the visible spectrum.
Although the infrared film is sensitive to blue color, a red filter can exclude the blue color. The
red filter transmits only long red and infrared radiation.
IR film is useful in penetrating haze because of its longer wavelength. In investigate
photography, it is useful in laboratory analysis of questioned documents, in discovering old (or
faded) tattoos under the skin, and in the contraction of camera traps.
X-ray Film
Film that is sensitive to x ray -radiation
Fast Film
Contains numerous number of large grains of silver halides that usually develop in groups; film
that are very sensitive to light. When the available light is dim, this type of films is the best
choice because of the low reflection power of the subject against the background. It is low in
contrast but high in brightness. However, the use of the fast speed film is not advisable due to its
graininess results.
Slow Film
Films that require longer period of time to completely expose there emulsion to light; film with
fine grains of silver halides
1. Monochromatic Film
a film that is sensitivity to a single color of (for black and white)
FILM SIZE
Photographic Exposure
SENSITIVE PAPER
Photographic Paper
The result of photography in its final form is the photograph. The material necessary to produce a
photograph (Positive Print) is a sensitized paper. It has emulsion that is coated with opaque material
like paper.
The manufacturer of the films according to their own ideas classifies the contrast range of photographic
paper. They produce different photographic papers intended for the specific contrast of the negatives to be
printed. Generally, this contrast range is classified into four:
They are the following:
# 1. Low Contrast
# 2 Normal and Medium Contrast
# 3 Hard Contrast
# 4 Very Hard or Extra Hard Contrast
The low contrast paper is usually suitable to a very low contrast negative to produce a normal print
or photograph. On the other hand, the high or hard contrast is suitable to a very low contrast paper is suitable
to a very low contrast negative to compensate for lack of brilliance and produce a normal print or
photographs.
Photographic papers are made with different characteristics. They are the combination of thickness
and finish. The texture maybe smooth, rough or linen, its finest maybe glossy with a very smooth surface
texture. Other type of textures may produce a mate or semi-glossy finish in rough or linen texture.
The paper base of the photographic paper maybe either white or tinted. Its weight or thickness
maybe either lightweight or single-weight or double-weight.
The choice of photographic paper for printing will depend upon the purpose of the photographs to be
made. Black and White object are usually printed in a white base photographic paper. Reproduction of
photographs would give satisfactory results if printed on glossy white photographic paper. For portrait
photograph, a cream paper base photographic paper is recommended and for law enforcement photography,
the smooth photographic paper is necessary so that the detail of the image appear and appreciated by the
viewers.
PHOTOGRAPHIC PAPERS are supplied in different grades. Numbers and or descriptive names, # 4
or hard, # 3 or medium, # 2 or normal, # 1 or soft contrast designates them. The type of paper to be
used is frequently the opposite in the name to the type of negative. For instance, hard paper is used
for thin, and normal paper is used for the so-called normal negative.
Photographic paper is made with different characteristics. They are the combination of thickness and
finish. Photographic papers are supplied according to weight or thickness of the base, surface, color
and contrast.
1. WEIGHT
Light Weight – are used when the thickness of the paper is not a consideration and high degree
of flexibility is necessary. Intended for purposes, which involve folding.
Single Weight – are paper used for small print or print which need to be mounted on solid and
fine details are necessary in the production. Used only for ordinary photographic purposes.
Double Weight – generally used for large prints because they stand up better under rough
treatment
2. SURFACE TEXTURE
Glossy Papers – are preferred where fine detail and brilliant images are required.
Semi – matte Papers – are with decided textures which obscure fine details
Rough Papers – used for large prints or where breadth rather than detail is necessary.
3. COLOR
White – are preferred for cold effect
Cream – are preferred for pictorial effect, portraits, landscapes or when warmth effect is desired.
Buff Papers – are preferred for tone prints.
The choice of photographic paper for printing will depend upon the purpose of the photographs to be
made.
Black and White object are usually printed in a white-based photographic paper.
Reproduction of photographs would give satisfactory results if printed in glossy white-based photographic
paper.
For portrait photography, a cream based photographic paper is recommended.
For law enforcement photography, the smooth photographic paper is necessary so that the detail of the image
appears and appreciated by the viewer.
Because of the fact that all negative do not print best on one kind of paper, and in order to permit
printing for special effects, photographic papers is made in several different grades of contrast and surface
texture. Velox paper made by Kodak offers six degrees of contrast and glossy surface.
VELOX No. 0 – used for printing from extremely contrast negatives, the low contrast in the paper
sensitizing counteracts the high contrast in the negative to give a new print.
VELOX No. 1 – used for high contrast negative
VELOX No. 2 – a paper for normal contrast used with normal negatives
VELOX No. 3 – used for negatives that have weak contrast
VELOX No. 4 – provides for sufficient contrast to compensate for very thin or weak negatives. It is useful
in printing pictures which high contrast is desired
VELOX No. 5 – for flat negative that are unprintable
Exposure:
Refers to the product of illumination and time it is computed by either the use of a light exposure
meter or the taking into consideration factors such as lighting condition, film sensitivity and kind of subject.
E.g. when using a film with ASA rating of 100, for a normal subject set the shutter speed at 1/25 of a
second and adjust the diaphragm opening in accordance with the following lightning conditions.
Bright Sunlight-f-11
Hazy Sunlight-f-8
Dull Sunlight-f-6
Burning-in - the adding of exposure time on a specific area to bring out details.
Dodging - the holding back of some lights to a specific area to make it lighter in density.
Cropping - the excluding or omitting some images on the negative from the final print.
Chapter III
CHEMICAL PROCESSING
After the exposure of the film to light in the picture taking or the photographic paper during printing, the
next step would generally be chemical processing.
In black and white processing, the steps are development, stop bath, and fixation.
In color processing, the steps are color development, stop-fix, and stabilizer.
DEVELOPMENT
The process by which an invisible latent image in an emulsion is made visible. In black and white
emulsion, the image is composed of grains of black metallic silver. In color emulsion, the developed
silver is replaced with cyan, yellow, and magenta dye.
Refers to the process of reduction. Exposed silver halides are reduced into metallic silver
There is separate developer for film (D-76) and another for paper (Dektol).
The factor that affects developing: developing time, agitation temperature, concentration of chemical
and exposure.
Component of Developer:
Stop Bath
Is an Intermediate bath between the developer and the fixer?
It is usually a combination of water blue acetic add or just plain water.
Primarily its function is to prevent the contamination of the chemical solution, particularly the
contamination of the developer and fixer from each other.
Stop-bath can be plain water only with 28% glacial acetic acid
Fixation
Refers to the process of removing unexposed halide remaining in the emulsion after the first stage of
development of the latent image.
The usual composition of an acid fixing solution are solvent silver halide known as Hypo; anti-
staining agent like acetic acid, a preservative like sodium sulfate, and a hardening agent like
potassium alum.
A fixer makes the developed image permanent when it is followed by a thorough washing. In this
processing stage, the unexposed underdeveloped silver halides crystals are dissolved and removed
from the emulsion of the photographic material
Component of Fixer:
Solvent Silver Halide – It is a “Sodium Thiosulfite popularly as hypo solution”. The function is to
remove the unexposed silver halide.
Anti- Staining Agent- it is the acetic acid which neutralizes the alkali in the developer carried over
that will prevent the weakening of the fixing solution and the staining of the image produced.
Preservative- Sodium sulfite act as the preservative of the fixing solution that will prevent
precipitation of sulfur and also prevent the oxidation of the developing solution carried over in the
fixing bath.
Hardening Agent- It is the potassium alum that hardens the gelatin of the sensitized materials which
was softens in the developing solution.
The fixing bath is recommended generally for both films and photographic papers.
Film Processing
Reeling procedure:
To load a metal spiral reel, hold the film with the emulsion side in or down loosely in one hand while
the other hand holds the reel.
Engage the film’s end at the center clip or hook of the reel.
Slightly squeeze the film width by pressing between the thumb and forefinger so it narrows just
enough to fit into the reel.
Turn the reel with other hand to pull the film onto the reel.
Do not apply excessive pressure with the hand holding and squeezing the film.
Let the film pass freely, it will straighten out full width in the spiral space of the reel.
d. After the reeling of the film is done, placed it inside the daylight developing tank then cover it.
White light can now be opened. Remove the lid cover of the tank and pour the film developer
slowly until the tank is full. Invert the tank then agitate it for a seconds. Timer should start now.
Intermittent agitation should be made during the developing time. After 5-6 minutes, pour out or
drain the developer.
e. Pour in the stop-bath, agitate the tank some more and after 15-20 seconds, drain out stop-bath.
Next is to pour in the fixing bath. Agitation should also be done every so often and after 15-20
minutes, drain the fixer from the tank.
Note: Used developer, stop-bath and fixer can be used again and again but instead of pouring them
back in the bottles of fresh or unused solutions, pour them in a separate container so it will not contaminate
the fresh or unused solutions.
f. You now wash the negative for several changes or preferably in running water for another 15-20
minutes.
g. Remove the negative from the developing reel. Get the sponge and immerse it in the water then
squeeze it to remove excess water. Wipe the negative with the sponge slowly to remove the
water adhering on the negative. This must be done on both sides of the negative. Water that
adheres on the surface of the negative can cause watermarks if allowed to dry without wiping.
h. Hang the negative to dry at a clean, dust free place or better in a negative drier.
Note: This developing procedure is actually not recommended because the film has a long contact
with air during the procedure which can caused aerial fog. Besides it is more tedious and tiring especially
with a 36 exposure film
Photographic Printing:
1. Contact Printing
2. Projection Printing or Enlarging
1. Contact Printing
The procedure of exposing photographic print materials while it is pressed in contact with the
negative being reproduced.
Contact prints are generally made for proofs of 35 mm negatives or copies of the large format
negatives like 5”x7” or 8”x10”.
It is also used to make positive copies of negatives.
Contact prints can be made with either black – and – white or color materials.
Glass and pad – a sheet of clear glass about 2 inches bigger that the print size in all sides to give a
border for handling a for its application of pressure. The pad should be of the same size as the glass.
Pressure printing frame – this is like a picture frame with a removable hinge back leaf spring on the
back. Lock it into place and it exert pressure against the glass in the frame.
Contact Printer- For a large volume work and a more controlled printing, a contact printer is most
effective and convenient. This is essentially a glass-top box with an exposing light and a safelight
(for proper arrangement of the negatives and the paper) inside and a hinge pressure cover on the
glass. Switches of the format control the lights.
Projection Procedure:
Clean the glass from dust, dirt and stains.
Place the negative with the base side against the glass and the emulsion of the photographic paper.
If a film rather than a photographic paper is being exposed, it must be backed with a black paper so
reflected lights will not add unwanted exposure, arrange the negatives to be printed on the
photographic paper so every part of it is accommodated with extra space on all sides.
Diffusion enlarger
Has a diffusion screen (usually ground or optical glass) between the light source and the negative.
Light from the lamp, as well as the light reflected from the reflector of the lamp housing, falls on the
diffuser that scatters the light.
After the light passes through the diffuser, it travels in many directions when it falls upon the
negative.
Condenser enlarger
Has a set of condensing lenses between the light source and the negative.
The condensing lenses concentrate or focus the light from a bulb and direct the light rays straight
through the negative to the lens