DESIGN molecules within the polymer system (can be done

commercially or with a steam iron).

Historical Design Development
Principles of Printing
Printing is a process of applying coloured patterns to the
 Overview of design development in society through
surface of fabrics by the use of print paste.
ONE of the focus areas:
1. Print paste is applied to the raised surface of a
- Apparel (swimwear)
printing tool.
2. Printing tool is pressed against the surface of the
History of Swimwear
textile.
*See sheet
3. The paste is transferred to the surface of the textile
in the specific areas of the design. Precise alignment is
Influences on Society *see sample answer for Design
important to achieve good registration.
The use of nylon (lycra) has influenced other areas of
4. The fabric is steamed to fix or set the dye so that
apparel such as:
colours will not run, fade or crock.
 Surf gear such as board shorts, rash vests, hats,
5. The fabric is washed to remove all loose or non fixed
accessories
colour and any residue chemicals and thickening agents.
 Stimulated research and development of laminated Steaming – during steaming the fibres in the fabric swell
fabrics (neoprene) such as wet suit fabric due to the effect of the moist hot steam which allows the
 Gym, aerobic and dance wear print paste to penetrate and be absorbed by the fibres.
 Bike pants, rock climbing gear This creates a firm bond between the fabric and the paste.
 Underwear and lingerie Methods – Block, roller, stenciling, screen (manual,
 Leggings, stockings, socks automatic, rotary), heat transfer, resist, discharge, fabric
 Body suits – casual and evening wear painting, marbling.
 Lycra has also been blended with other fibres such as
cotton, wool, silk, synthetics in suits, pants, jeans and Differences between Dyeing and Printing
shirts. This allows for a slimmer fit, comfort and easy care Dyeing produces a solid even colour on both the right and
since lycra can expand by up to 500% wrong sides of a fabric.
Printing produces a defined pattern on the right side of
Heightened awareness and Australia’s high rate of skin fabric. It allows the production of multi coloured patterns
cancers has led to the further development of traditional on fabrics.
fabrics used for swimming costumes. The companies
Radicool, Sunskins and Solasuits have all developed fabrics  methods of fabric decoration, including printing,
that protect the skin from the harmful UV rays in the sun dyeing, appliqué and embroidery
(UPF 50+ fabrics).
Chlorine resistant fabric (Chlorisi) is durable, supple, Printing
stretchy and comfortable. All these fabrics are used to Description of technique – Colour applied using a printing
make swimwear for all ages, polo shirts, air mesh shirts, paste forced through an image on a silk screen.
hats and protective driving sleeves. Reasons for choice – Inexpensive, suitable for mass
production, fast, durable, large variety of colours can be
Fabric Decoration used

 principles of applying colour to fabrics, yarns and Stencil Printing

fibres Equipment and Materials – Iron, Calico, stencil (either
purchased or cut out from cardboard), stencil brush, fabric
Principles of Dyeing paint, masking tape.
Dyeing is a process where dye molecules, thoroughly Process –
dissolved in water or some other carrier, are able to 1. Tape fabric to table and tape stencil to fabric to
penetrate and colour textiles in a solid shape or design. avoid slipping or movement
1. The dye is dissolved in a given quantity of water. 2. Apply a small amount of paint to brush and remove
2. The textile is wetted out to help swell the fibre, some of it by rubbing onto a scrap of newspaper
making it easier for the dye to enter the fibre 3. To stencil the design, use brush and dab it onto the
3. The textile is immersed in the solution surface until design is covered
4. The dye molecules migrate from the dye solution to 4. Remove stencil and leave to dry
the surface of the textile 5. Once dry, iron to seal the paint into the fabric
5. The dye molecules move into the amorphous regions Uses – Stencil printing can be used on a variety of items.
of the fibre where it is anchored in the fibre. There are many different stencils available and you can
Agitation helps to separate fibres from each other and design your own so it is a creative and personalized
thereby increases the potential surface area for dye to be technique. It adds colour and interest to napery, upholstery
absorbed. and clothes as well as a range of artistic textile pieces.
Time should be allowed for the dye to be absorbed but not Limitations – If too much paint is applied it may bleed and
too rapidly as the spread could be uneven. ruin the design.
Steaming is carried out after dyeing to ensure colour
fastness. It swells the fibre allowing access to dye Dyeing
Batik Machine Embroidery – where the sewing machine is used to
Equipment and Materials – Frying pan, wax stamps, rubber create embroidered designs
gloves, flat bottomed bowl, knife, bucket, clothes rack,
pegs, wax pre-washed lawn, dylon cold water dye, salt. Hand Embroidery
Process – Equipment and Materials – Embroidery hoop, embroidery
1. Heat wax in frying pan until there is an inch or so of needle, embroidery cotton, embroidery scissors
melted wax in the bottom Process –
2. Dip wax stamps into hot wax and then press onto pre 1. Cut fabric to desired size
washed lawn in required design 2. Place and secure fabric in embroidery hoop
3. Put on rubber gloves and fill bowl with water 3. Tie a small knot at the end of embroidery cotton to
4. Pierce tin with knife and dissolve in 500ml of hot secure on wrong side of the fabric
water in bucket and add to dye bowl 4. When stitching, make sure the tail of the knot is
5. Dissolve 150 grams of salt and 1 sachet of dylon cold caught by stitches on the wrong side to keep the back of
fix in hot water and add to dye bowl the design neat, to avoid getting knots
6. Immerse batik sample unfolded and dye for one hour, There are unlimited patterns, designs and stitches that can
agitating for the first 10 mins and lifting out of dye to be sewn from the traditional and established stitches and
prevent folds forming. Repeat stirring at brisk intervals for those that you invent yourself. Some of the well known
the remaining time stitches are stem stitch, herringbone stitch, long and short
7. Rinse fabric in cold water until the water runs clear stitch, satin stitch, back stitch, blanket stitch and chain
8. Hang on clothes rack with pegs to dry stitch.
Uses – Batik is used to develop creative and interesting Uses – Hand embroidery is used to create original and
designs on fabric before they are manufactured into textile individualized designs to embellish all sorts of textile
items. Batik can be used for clothing, accessories, items. It can be used on nearly all fabrics and there are an
haberdashery and costuming to produce bright and vibrant unlimited number of techniques and stitches that can be
dyed designs. used on clothing, accessories and haberdashery.
Limitations – If there is too much wax on the stamp, the Limitations – Hand embroidery is time consuming and
stamp may drip or bleed on the fabric causing an undesired delicate. Due to this, mass production is limited and it
pattern. If there is not enough wax on the stamp, the wax requires a lot of concentration. Steady hands are necessary
won’t full penetrate the fabric and once dyed, the fabric and the wrong side of the fabric must be neat to avoid
won’t retain the desired design. causing knots. Identical designs are difficult to produce.

Applique Computerised Machine Embroidery

Equipment and Materials – Bernina computerized sewing
Machine Applique – Fused (Vliesofix) machine and hoop, Bernina Artista computer program,
Equipment and Materials – Sewing machine, bobbin, bobbin computer bobbin, bobbin case, different coloured cotton
case, cotton thread, patterned material, calico, vliesofix, threads, calico, stitch and tear, Bernina Artista instruction
paper, pencil, scissors, iron manual
Process – Process –
1. Draw and cut desired design out of paper to use as a 1. Use computer program and select a design or create
template your own
2. Using template, cut design out of patterned material 2. Thread machine with desired colours
and vliesofix 3. Cut calico and stitch ad tear to a square slightly
3. Iron material and vliesofix together and iron the larger than hoop size
material to the calico 4. Put calico and stitch and tear into hoop and tighten
4. Thread machine and thread to desired width zigzag 5. Attach hoop to machine
setting 6. Send design from computer to machine
5. Neatly stitch around the perimeter of the design 7. Start the machine and following the machines
6. Draw threads to the wrong side of the fabric and prompts, trim backstitch thread and change colour
secure 8. When design is completed, remove from machine and
Uses – Fused appliqué is a quick and easy decorative hoop, cut joining threads with embroidery scissors
technique used to create interest and focal points in textile 9. Remove stitch and tear of desired
items. Applique is often used for clothing and children’s Uses – Computerised machine embroidery is a new
toys and books. technology, which allows for the decoration of a range of
Limitations – Fused appliqué works best with medium fabric and designs to provide a neat and professional
weight fabric and it is limited in its use with sheer fabric as design. Computerised machine embroidery can produce an
they aren’t sturdy enough, and thick fabrics become too unlimited number of designs and allows for creativity and
bulky and difficult to sew. Another limitation is that the personalization of designs. It is often neater to use a
chosen fabric must be able to withstand ironing and heat. computerized sewing machine that free motion or hand
embroidery.
Embroidery Limitations – Tension often causes a problem with
Counted Thread Embroidery – where stitches are formed computerized sewing machine embroidery when using sheer
over precise numbers of warp and weft yarns in the fabric. fabric or metallic threads. It may take a few practices to
Free form Embroidery – where stitches flow freely over the achieve the correct tension. Occassionally, the thread reel
surface of the fabric, creating patterns in any direction comes off the machine and needs to be put back in place.
These few limitations are easily dealt with.
 dyeing). Finished Yukata motif are in blue and white and
Influence of Culture on Design include dots, checks, birds, flowers, landscapes and komon
 Investigate and analyse the influence of ONE culture designs. Today, Yukata fabrics are used for summer
on contemporary design garments. Heavier fabrics can be yukata dyed – they are
used for farmer’s clothes, curtains, quilt covers.
JAPAN  Yuzen: Multicoloured paste resist dyeing. Yuzen
 Textile production and textile art forms developed around 1700 in the Edo period. The Edo period
was a time of creativity and local governments encouraged
Textiles provide an interesting and revealing vantage point product development and industries. This was a period of
to look at any society. This is particularly the case with flamboyance in dress. Yuzen is often combined with other
Japanese textiles. Beginning in the early modern era when decorative techniques. Designs are often symbolic motifs
Japan increased its urbanization, textiles became a badge used to reflect special occasion, social class or age.
of social status. Because of their closeness to the human
body in clothes and other uses, textiles show by their  Textiles as a medium for self expression and
motif, color and garment shape much about Japan and its communication between people
culture. In addition, they send messages as to an Colour combinations are important, certain colours and
individual’s age, rank, gender, social, political and religious designs are used to represent the season. The main colours
affiliation. In Japan they also often denoted an individual’s used are red, white, indigo and blue. The Japanese believe
occupation, special function and association with special that people should be one with nature and their designs
groups. were influenced by designs from nature. Symbols were
cranes (unity), Dragon (strength), Mandarin duck (marital
This is the case throughout Japanese history but is perhaps fidelity), tortoise (longevity), bamboo/pine (endurance),
even more apt during the Edo period when economic, plum (hope), fern (wish for prosperity).
commercial and social conditions created levels of change The Shinto religion influenced textiles and the kimono was
that made textiles and clothing an even more important hence decorated with seasonal natural pictures. Shinto is a
form of social identification. Many of the criteria and some mixture of ancestor and nature worship.
of the forms and designs of the eighteenth and nineteenth Religions in Japan include; Shintoism, Buddhism and
century can still be seen to this day. For example, a Christianity.
preference for natural materials, a preference for For New Years festivals people dress in fine kimono and for
traditional decorating techniques and as if a subtle Setsuban people wear brightly coloured kimonos to drive
defiance to the dwindling interest in wearing the kimono – out evil spirits and bring in good ones.
the enduring status of the yukata. Textiles continue to this For weddings, they have elaborate, colourful furisode
day to demonstrate their commercial uses of demonstrating kimonos over pastel kimonos with a tasseled fan tucked
a shops main activities. This can be seen in the present into the obi. For funerals, a kimono is worn with a family
usage of noren (doorway curtain) and advertising banners. crest worn with a wide obi.
Hierarchical court rank system used colour to communicate
Textile Arts – kimono, obi, fukasa (wall hanging), byobu rank.
(folding room dividers), Status was equated with size – bulk was created by
multilayered clothing to communicate status.
Fibres and Fabrics – cotton, silk, yukata, brocade, kasuri, Large sleeves were a sign of affluence because only rich
shibori, shibori habori, chirimen crepe, obi brocade people could afford extra material.
Family crests were used on belongings to express
Textiles Decoration individuality.
Different ways of tying the obi were used to communicate
 Stitched Shibori: stitching as a way of resisting the
the wearers age and status.
dye.
Furisode is worn by unmarried girls.
Unique effects obtained with Shibori are created by the
type of stitch, whether or not the cloth is folded, and the
arrangement of the stitches. After stitching the piece is  Effects of the culture on textile design in
complete, the cloth is drawn into tight gathers along the contemporary society
stitched threads and secured by knotting. It is then dyed. Today, it is common to see an obi used for interior design
The cloth between the gathers is largely protected from as a table runner, cut to desired lengths and used for
the dye. cushion covers and wall hangings.
Shashiko is a form of Japanese quilting which is still used
 Bound Shibori: Designs are created by drawing up
today for quilt covers, wall hangings and cushions.
portions of cloth and binding each shape with thread. The
Furoshiki is a square wrapping of cloth which gifts or
nature of the binding process limits itself to circular
objects are placed in - can be used in contemporary society
patterns.
as table centre pieces, table cloths, placemats, cushion
 Embroidery
covers etc.
Wrap around tops or dresses are currently in fashion, and
Dyes
while the waist tie might be significant smaller than the
 Aizome: Indigo Dyeing. Indigo dyeing techniques obi, the wrap around design has been inspired by the
include tie dyeing and paste resist dyeing. Yukata fabric is kimono.
dyed with indigo. This fabric is used for the summer The very common dressing gown is also kimono inspired.
kimono. The patterns on Yukata are achieved by applying
paste to both sides of the fabric through a stencil (yuzen
Cherry blossom decorations were commonly used by the also being replaced by silk screen printing. Japan is one of
Japanese and can now be seen in contemporary society the major manufacturers of microchips.
with designers such as Akira Isogawa. Resources Available – In the past, natural fibres such as
Miyake Issei is a contemporary designer known under his hemp and ramie were used. The Japanese spun and wove
label name if Issey Miyake. Born in Hiroshima, Miyake is silk and natural dyes were used. Today, some natural
known for his unconventional designs and reinterpretations resources have been replaced with synthetics. Chemical
of traditional textile designs in various modern materials. dyes are used because they give brighter colours. Synthetic
fibres are used and are sometimes blended with natural
 External factors that have influenced textile design fibres to enhance properties. Silk is cultivated for the use
Communication and Trade – During the Edo period Japan of textiles. Manufacture of silks is expensive and it is
introduced a closed door policy and there was limited exported. Japan has a variety of different resources but
contact with Western culture. This enabled the Japanese to they are limited in quantity and quality and consequently
develop a unique style of dress and decorative techniques. do not supply the countries needs. Japan imports cotton
Communication through a diverse range of media reveals and wool, raw material such as cotton, flax and wool are
new ideas, and travel allows people to encounter the arts imported due to improvements in transportation and
of other cultures. foreign trade.
Historical contact of other countries - In the past Japan Religious Practices and Traditions – Religions in Japan
was influenced by neighboring countries and traded with include: Shintoism, Buddhism and Christianity. The Shinto
China and Korea. Silk, brocades, fabric decoration religion, a mixture of ancestor and nature worship,
technique and multilayering of clothing was inspired by influenced textiles and the kimono was hence decorated
China. China influenced their costume, loose upper with seasonal natural pictures.
garment and baggy trousers which over the years *see textiles as a medium for self expression and
developed into the kimono style that is present today. communication between people
Populations which were originally isolated from one Skills and Status of the Textile Worker – In the past,
another, are now more than ever exposed to a variety of complicated and elaborate techniques were used to
influences from cultures all over the world. decorate kimonos. Because designs were symbolic and an
Religion – The Buddhism religion was adopted from China expression of the Japanese way of life, the textile worker
and Korea and the symbols of nature are used on Japanese needed an understanding and feeling for the designs.
fabrics. Today, much of the traditional manual weaving and fabric
Contact with Western countries – As Japan began to decoration techniques have been replaced with new
recover from World War II, western style of dress began to technology. Even though workers must be trained in this
be adopted as it was associated with modernity and technology, it does not require the skill of traditional
progress. techniques. There are some craftsmen that still carry out
World economy – 1930s depression impacted on the traditional techniques.
international price of raw silk and other fibres used in
kimono production Contemporary Designers

 Cultural influences, including geographic location,  Factors that determine the success or failure of
technological development, resources available, religious designers:
practices, workers’ skills and status
Geographic Location – Situated off the pacific coast of the  undertake an investigation of at least ONE
Asian continent, Japan consists of four main islands. It is contemporary designer, analyzing the designer’s influence
located near China and Korea and both of these countries on current trends
have influenced clothing, textiles designs, weaving and
fabric decoration techniques. It is believed that the Kimono AKIRA ISOGAWA
evolved from Chinese coats around 300BC, and that multi-
layering in Japanese clothing evolved from the Chinese Description of Designs
tradition of multi-layering. The climate influences the Isogawa's clothes draw on a variety of inspirations, notably
clothing – the Yukata is an unlined summer kimono, and his experiences growing up in Japan.
winter kimonos are lined and padded). The landform of He translates fabrics into soft and romantic silhouettes,
Japan has been a source of inspiration for many designs – using natural fabrics like silk and cottons, which are kind to
the Japanese have respect for nature and designs often the skin. Richly embellished fabrics echo Eastern influences
reflect this with patterns and decorations on textiles and he has great respect for their traditions. Inspiration
depicting the many qualities of nature. can be found from the past- re using vintage textiles
Technological Development – Today, Japan is one of the incorporated with specific craftsmanship. “Timeless beauty
greatest industrial powers and has a high degree of and femininity in my design is profound, in a way for the
technological advancement. Television, computers, the wearer to express their inner soul.” – Akira Isogawa
internet and fashion magazines have great influence of Target Market
fabric decoration techniques and fashion. Natural dyes are Akira commercial label concentrates on women’s fashion
being replaced by synthetic dyes – brighter colours and but he has also worked as a costume designer for the
more variation. Natural fibres are being replaced by Sydney Dance Company.
synthetic fibres – they can imitate natural fibres. Work
previously done by hand (hand embroidery) can now be - external factors, including economic, political,
done by machine (machine embroidery). Stencil printing is social, ecological and technological
Economic – general economy will influence the designer. In from a diverse background and has a range of expertise.
Australia, the value of the AUD affects imports and Akira Isogawa runs his own business and therefore has the
exports. A low value of the AUD is a benefit to Akira relevant business knowledge to ensure his label is
Isogawa as it is cheaper for his target market of overseas successful. He is qualified in fashion design and has
tourists and overseas importers. Many of his customers are specialized knowledge and skills in textiles having studied
from overseas keen to buy authentic Japanese inspired fashion design at East Sydney College and The National Art
clothing. The worldwide coverage offered by Australian School. He has the ability to design creatively, innovatively
Fashion Week allowed Akira Isogawa to showcase his work and meet consumer demands. He is also able to use and
and buyers attending the shows extended the potential for understand materials and technology effectively whilst
export sale immensely. Introduction of GST which understanding government legislation to the industry. In
increased inflation and decreased demand in the economy addition, completion of additional courses to add to his
affects Akira Isogawa and his products as they will be more qualifications and expertise can be helpful.
expensive to the consumer and all the materials and Facilities – Over the past 25 years of his fashion designing,
services used in their production. Akira has built a pool of about 20 fabric designers that he
Political – Governments can assist designers by establishing uses. He sews some of the clothing himself, but as the
grants and imposing tariffs on imported goods. Government business has grown, he now sub contracts the sewing to
incentives aim to keep designers like Akira manufacturing several local clothing manufacturers and individuals. Akira
here rather than fully offshore. Akira Isogawa’s business ensures that working conditions are safe and that
has been helped by government initiatives. He has used Workplace regulations are respected. Technology and
Trade Start to expand his business overseas. Trade start is computerization of machinery are now more efficient
a national network of export assistance offices in meaning fewer employees are needed. Technology needs to
partnership between Austrade and a range of local private be up to date and a good cash flow is needed. The facilities
and public sector organizations throughout Australia. available to Akira Isogawa are crucial to his success. An
Relationships between countries can affect imports, important factor in the success of Akira is having reliable
exports and production rates. If governments impose sources of all the materials and services that are required
sanctions on another country, trade between the countries to produce his designs. To minimize the cost of production,
is affected. This could ultimately affect the supply of raw he has his products made up overseas in countries where
materials or the export trade used by Akira Isogawa. Trade labour is cheaper.
agreements between Australia and other countries can Financial Resources – When Akira first moved to Australia,
affect Akira Isogawa – he can profit from trade ties through he paid his way through design school working as a waiter.
increased jobs and spending power of consumers. After saving enough money, he eventually opened his own
Social – Textile product reflect the trends within society. small store and studio. This was the beginning of his
Being a multicultural society, Australia’s fashion reflects a international empire. Now, with his growing success he
global nature of cultural influences and inspirations. Akira must take many financial aspects into consideration if he is
Isogawa responds to social trends and the attitudes of to remain successful. By outsourcing and subcontracting,
groups within society and this is reflected in his designs. He Akira keeps prices competitive and maintains appropriate
expresses the Japanese culture using a range of mediums in stock levels. He is able to successfully operate a functional
textiles and fashion. His use of layered, embellished business with wages, rent, materials, production costs and
designs reflects society’s demand for creative, innovative marketing. The product lifecycle of a garment need to be
designs. taken into account – short term trend needs to be
Ecological – Akira Isogawa is aware of consumer’s demands expensive so it will earn a return before going out of
for ecologically friendly products and uses environmentally fashion, long term trend can be cheaper as designer can
friendly materials and processes where possible. He uses still make a profit due to consumer loyalty and larger
fabrics that are influenced by Japanese culture in his market share.
designs and most of these consist of natural fibres, cotton
and silk. These fabrics are decorated using fabric  Changing trends in society that influence:
decoration techniques of painting and silk designs. - apparel designers – Akira Isogawa
Technological – Internet allows Akira Isogawa to be more
accessible to buy, browse or publicise, creating a global Relationship between designer and current trends
network which allows him to expand to suit his needs. He is Societies growing interest in ethnic cultures and their
aware of how technological developments in fibre, yarn, traditions and clothing influence Akira Isogawa’s designs
fabric, dyeing and manufacturing will affect his product in and affect his popularity in the industry. His style is
terms of quality, price and time. Investing in new accepted within society as unique, original and somewhat
technology is expensive, although wages, time and end traditional. The growing popularity of celebrities influence
production can justify it. Computer technology enables Akira Isogawa by promoting more elaborate designs and
Akira Isogawa to visualize ideas, make changes, crate creating interest and appeal of these fashions to the
variations and store final designs. CAD and CAM have general public. With the consumer earning more disposable
greatly increased the speed in which Akira can get his income in today’s society, people are able to afford more
garments into the marketplace. elaborate, expensive clothing. Akira Isogawa is constantly
exposed to influences from various aspects of the society in
- internal factors, including expertise, facilities and which he works. Subsequently, this impacts upon his work.
financial Akira takes inspiration from everything that surrounds him.
This includes:
Expertise – Akira Isogawa possesses an innate ability for o Nature – provides an endless variety of ideas in colour,
creative design and a sense of what people want. He is pattern and shape. This can be seen in Akira’s designs,
particularly the use of plants and flowers as themes in his
designs.
o Historical periods – Akira Isogawa will often look to the
past to gain inspiration for new designs, incorporating
features from past trends into his designs. He highly values
original, one of a kind creations and this is reflected in his
fashion designs which are unique to his style.
o Culture – Akira Isogawa looks to features and points of
styling found in ethnic designs for inspiration, adapting and
incorporating them into his work. Isogawa’s particular
design sensibility draws upon the costume and textile
traditions of his Japanese heritage and reinterprets them
according to the more relaxed influences of Australian
attitudes and environment.
o Events – Celebrity promoting events such as award shows
are the perfect opportunity for Akira Isogawa to showcase
his work to the general public by sponsoring celebrities to
wear their designs. Events such as these also allow Akira to
observe the designs of others which ultimately influence
his.
o Trends in Art Forms – sculpture, painting, architecture,
music and film also inspire new trends.
o Developments in Textiles – New fibres, yarns, fabrics and
finishes stimulate the development of new styles in Akira’s
designs.
Designers Influence on Current Trends
Akira Isogawa’s success is a source of inspiration for many
designers.
His success allows new designers to realize they can
succeed with a lot of time and effort
Isogawa’s use of Japanese designs has inspired non-
Japanese designers to experiment with these fabrics and
incorporate them into their designs.
These designers include some of today’s famous names
such as Issey Miyake, Kenzo and Hanae Mori.
The collective works of the ‘mode Japonaise’ movement
have made a big impact on contemporary fashion. Their use
of inventive shapes and monochrome tones, particularly
the use of black, shook the industry.
These days, its street fashion that is leading the way and
young Japanese are as hip as their contemporaries
anywhere in the world, influencing other designers and
other countries trends. But the established designers still
play a big part in setting the trends for world fashion.