Volume 9, Issue 4, April – 2024 International Journal of Innovative Science and Research Technology

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A Summarized Review of Formulation,

in Vitro Evaluation of Sunscreen
Singh Sarbjot1; Kaur Rajneesh2; Bhushan Brij3; Verma Savita4; Kumari Samriti5*
1
Associate Professor-Department of Pharmacology, Himachal Pharmacy College, Majhauli (Nalagarh) Himachal Pradesh-174101
2,3
Associate Professor-Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Himachal Pharmacy College, Majhauli (Nalagarh) Himachal
4,5*
Bachelor of Pharmacy (Final Year) –Himachal Pharmacy College, Majhauli (Nalagarh) Himachal Pradesh-174101
Pradesh-174101

Abstract:- The efficacy and safety of sunscreens are skin protected by sunscreen with the duration required to
diminished when their agents permeate the skin, resulting cause sunburn on skin that is not covered by sunscreen.[1]The
in systemic circulation and unidentified negative effects. efficacy of sunscreens to prevent UV-induced sunburns and
The filters in sunscreens muster main on the skin's their chemopreventive properties determine how effective
surface with minimal penetration through the dermis in they are.[2] A wide range of specifications must be met by the
order to preserve their safety and efficacy. Sunscreen perfect sunscreen composition. It must filter or absorb the
should always be worn, even in the event that filters sunburn-causing photons, which are in the 2900–3300
manage get through. Damage like as erythema, the Angstrom range. In the presence of light, air, and moisture, it
production of free radicals, aging of the skin, and skin should be stable; if it breaks down under these circumstances,
cancer brought on by UV radiation. Research is being the breakdown products should absorb similarly to the
done to limit skin penetration, assess sun protection factor original compound in the 2900–3300 Angstrom range. It is
(SPF), and improve formulation properties and stability desirable for the chemical and its breakdown products to be
in order to target potential negative effects caused by nontoxic and nonirritating under use conditions.It should be
topical absorption of sunscreens. In vitro or in vivo almost neutral to ensure that the presence of either base or
investigations are used in current assays to determine acid on the skin does not have any negative consequences. It
sunscreen penetration since they mimic the physiological should be poorly soluble in water to avoid being quickly
conditions of use. This review objectives are to reexamine removed by perspiration and well soluble in the ointment base
data on sunscreen skin penetration over the last ten years or vehicle in which it is to be prepared. In order to prevent
and identify variables that may increase skin penetration evaporation during use, it should be comparatively
or boost sunscreen efficacy. Sunburn is caused by nonvolatile. It shouldn't be absorbed through the skin
ultraviolet B radiation, but ultraviolet A may be more quickly.[3]
damaging to the skin. Sunscreens should ideally block
both wavebands. A sunscreen sun protection factor is Sunscreens were first created to shield users from
mostly determined by how well it blocks ultraviolet B. The sunburn caused by prolonged sun exposure. These products
efficiency of preventing ultraviolet A is not measured. had minimal effect on ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation, but
Sunscreens may be organic or inorganic chemicals. If were intended to prevent ultraviolet B (UVB) rays, which are
metal oxide sunscreens are made into nanoparticles, their responsible for sunburn. It is now established that ultraviolet
cosmetic acceptance might increase. It doesn’t seem that A radiation damages cells located beneath the epidermis,
absorbing organic sunscreens and nanoparticles has any potentially resulting in early ageing of the skin and certain
appreciable systemic effects. Frequent use of sunscreen forms of skin cancer. Nowadays, sunscreens are available that
prevents melanoma, squamous cell carcinoma, and block both wavebands. Nowadays, a lot of individuals use
actinic keratosis from developing. sunscreens on a daily basis. They are also found in many
"anti-ageing" moisturising creams, lipsticks, and other
Keywords:- Sunscreen, Sun Protection Factor, Permeation, cosmetics.[4]
Sunburn.
The skin's barrier against the damaging effects of direct
I. INTRODUCTION UV radiation is a sunscreen, which is a photoprotective agent
against UV radiation. Currently being developed are broad-
Sunscreen is widely being used as a photo-protective spectrum sunscreens that gradually lessen the negative effects
agent to defend against UV rays. A sunscreen preparation is of direct UV light.[5]Phytoconstituents are becoming more
described as a mixture that prevents sunburn in the targeted and more popular as necessary ingredients in cosmetic
region when applied topically. Sunscreens are used to formulations because they are natural, have antimutagenic,
supplement the body's defences against UV radiation from anticarcinogenic, and nontoxic effects, and can significantly
the sun, which is damaging. Its capacity to absorb, reflect, or inhibit the intricate process of carcinogenesis. Synthetic
deflect solar radiation determines how it functions. The photoprotective agents have the potential to be toxic and
calculation of a sunscreen's sun protection factor (SPF) carcinogenic. Natural herbal ingredients used in cosmetics
involves comparing the duration required to cause sunburn on soothe skin more effectively, especially hypoallergic

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Volume 9, Issue 4, April – 2024 International Journal of Innovative Science and Research Technology
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skin[6]contains natural elements that may effectively protect B. Mechanism of Photoaging and Chronological Skin Aging
the skin against UVA and UVB rays, air temperature Variable epidermal thickness, dermal elastosis,
fluctuations, pollution, hyperpigmentation, and ageing. It can reduced/fragmented collagen, elevated matrix-degrading
also revitalise the skin, because bioactive chemicals are metalloproteinases, inflammatory infiltrates, and vascular
harmless, have no negative side effects, don't include any ectasia are all signs of photodamaged skin.The fact that ROS
harmful synthetic compounds that could endanger human destabilise other molecules and start chain reactions that
health, and are environmentally sustainable, their application quickly deteriorate biomolecules such as telomere shortening
in cosmetic formulations has grown recently.[7]Furthermore, and degeneration, mitochondrial damage, membrane
bioactive substances have a wide range of pharmacological degradation, and oxidation of structural and enzymatic
characteristics. These include being naturally occurring proteins—makes them especially dangerous. Collagen and
preservatives and antioxidants, hypoallergenic in comparison elastin are the extracellular matrix's structural proteins.
to synthetic products, and environmentally begin.[8] Angiogenesis and metastasis are facilitated by the breakdown
and remodelling of collagen and elastin fibres, and the
II. DISEASES CAUSED BY UV – RAYS damaged proteins in these tissues act as extra photooxidative
stress sensors. Collagen fragments accumulate over time and
A. Sunburn as a result of prolonged UV exposure, which compromises
the mechanical and functional characteristics of the skin
 Sun exposure can cause various types of skin damage, extracellular matrix. Skin surface texture and skin resilience
including sunburn and sun poisoning. Treatment may be are linked to elastic fibres, such as oxytalan fibres in the
necessary for the mild to severe symptoms. papillary dermis, and the production of elastic fibres by
 If you have blisters, hives or rash, fever and chills, nausea, fibroblasts is promoted by elevated expression of fibulin-5.
thirst, headache, pain and tingling, or visual issues, Fibulin-5 is an early marker of photoaged skin, and its
sunburn may be sun poisoning.[18] induction is thus a damage-repair mechanism.[27]
 Midday and the hours right before and after (between 10
AM and 4 PM) are when UV rays are most powerful.[19]
 Hot, red, and sensitive skin are the initial signs of sunburn;
it also hurts to touch or press the skin and causes
dehydration. A few days later, the skin may peel, blister,
and swell.[20]
 Home remedies for mild sunburns include applying damp
cloths or compresses to relieve pain, taking a tepid bath
without soap, patting the skin dry gently, applying
soothing creams or lotions, using over-the-counter pain
relievers like Tylenol, and moisturising the skin.[21]
 Skin cancer (malignant melanoma, basal cell carcinoma,
squamous cell carcinoma) and persistent skin damage can
result from sunburn.[22]
 Those with fair skin and those with specific pigment
abnormalities are more vulnerable to sunburn.[23]
 There are several illnesses and ailments that increase the
risk of sunburn, including as vitiligo, xeroderma
pigmentosum, lupus, albinism, and porphyria.[24]
 Certain drugs may make you more susceptible to sunburn
(photosensitivity).[25]
 Severe sunburn is the cause of sun poisoning, which
manifests as fever, chills, nausea, disorientation, fast
breathing, quick pulse, dehydration, and shock.[26]

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Volume 9, Issue 4, April – 2024 International Journal of Innovative Science and Research Technology
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C. Mechanism of UV Induced Immunosuppression

The UV rays suppresses the immune system in several ways. [28]

Fig 1: Mechanism of UV Induced Immunosuppression

D. UVB Response in Melanoma prevent UVB-induced melanomagenesis. Activating

Skin infiltration by neutrophils and macrophages is Transcription Factor 2 (ATF2), α-Melanocyte-Stimulating
brought on by UVB radiation. The promotion of macrophage Hormone (αMSH), Ataxia Telangiectasia and Rad3-related
recruitment into the skin is facilitated by the upregulation of (ATR), Xeroderma Pigmentosum Group C (XPC), type II
CCR2 and ATF2 in melanocytes. This, in turn, triggers the Interferon (IFN-γ), Interleukin-23 (IL-23), Nucleotide
synthesis of CCL2, MMP-9, and IFN-γ in macrophages. Excision Repair (NER), Melanocortin 1 Receptor (MC1R),
Melanocytes and macrophages engage in a positive feedback Ataxia Telangiectasia Mutated gene (ATM), Ataxia
loop via which melanocytes upregulate CCL8, a CCR2 Telangiectasia and Rad3-related (ATR); Xeroderma
ligand, and encourage further macrophage recruitment. This Pigmentosum group A (XPA).[29]
is facilitated by IFN-γ signalling from macrophages. The
influx of neutrophils and macrophages triggers an III. CLASSIFICATION OF SUNSCREEN
inflammatory response that advances angiogenesis,
melanoma cell invasion, survival, and metastasis. Moreover, A. Sunscreen Classically Divided into Physical or Chemical
UVB independently controls MC1R signalling and melanin Sunscreens:-
synthesis. UVB-induced induction of pigmentation genes and
consequent rise in melanin synthesis boosts NER and cell  Chemical Sunscreen
survival but reduces proliferation and, eventually, Chemical sunscreens absorb UV photons through the
melanomagenesis.UVB-induced signalling via MC1R skin, transform them into heat, and then expel the heat from
initiates the DNA damage response. In order to trigger NER, the body. Physical blockers are inorganic substances that
signalling via αMSH and MC1R phosphorylates ATM and absorb, scatter, or reflect UV radiation. Physical UV
ATR, increases XPC, and encourages the recruitment of absorbers, such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, are
XPA. To lessen oxidative stress in melanocytes and thought to be extremely effective UVR protectors.
melanoma, αMSH also activates genes related to the response Combinations of ZnO and TiO2 are especially useful because
to oxidative stress. Additionally, XPC and XPA are activated they can filter UVA and UVB rays, offering greater UVR
to cause NER by UVB-induced IL-23 expression. Melanin protection than is possible with single components.[30] Their
synthesis, MC1R signalling, and IL-23 signalling can all size is less than 100 nm, and they are utilised as nanoparticles

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Volume 9, Issue 4, April – 2024 International Journal of Innovative Science and Research Technology
ISSN No:-2456-2165 https://doi.org/10.38124/ijisrt/IJISRT24APR2306

in sunscreens. Because these mineral particles are much less  Physical Sunscreen
noticeable after application, their smaller size promotes the It has become clear in recent years how important it is
cosmetic acceptability by consumers. to wear appropriate UVA protection.

ZnO's UVA-UVB absorption curve is broad, but TiO2 Standards used in the US and Europe to evaluate
offers superior UVB protection. Because inorganic filters can sunscreen products' UVA protection differ. According to US
not absorb into the skin, the hazards to human health Food and Drug Administration rules for broad-spectrum
associated with them are generally very low. Nevertheless, status, the majority of tested sunscreens provided appropriate
inhalation exposure poses a concern, which is why spray UVA protection; however, nearly half of the sunscreens
sunscreen products containing nanoparticles are advised to be tested failed to meet EU standards. Oxybenzone, meradimate,
avoided.[31]While UV-B rays produce sunburn, UV-A rays avobenzene, and tetraphthalydine dicamphor sulfonic acid
play a major role in skin cancer and rapid ageing of the skin. are the components of UVA sunscreen. Broad spectrum is a
Because of this, many medical professionals strongly advise term designed to mean protection from both UVA and
using sunscreen to reduce or perhaps completely eliminate UVB.[36,37]
the damaging effects of UV rays on our skin, bearing in mind
that exposure to UV radiation is linked to around 90% of all  Problems Associated with Physical Sunscreens are:
cases of skin cancer. It is recommended to protect against
UVB and UVA radiation. Broad-spectrum protection is  Certain sunscreen formulae are unsuitable for medium-to-
typically achieved by combining chemical sunscreens that dark skin tones due to their high opacity, which leaves a
absorb UV rays with physical inorganic sunscreens that white film on the skin and renders the topical treatment
reflect UV rays. As part of an overall sun protection unappealing from a cosmetic stand point.
programme, the proper application of sunscreens should be  May not be as protective if not applied liberally and
paired with avoiding the midday sun and donning protective precisely, as UV light has the ability to pass through the
clothes and sunglasses.[32] Unfortunately, false information molecules of sunscreen and penetrate the skin.
about the toxicity, safety, and severe side effects of the active  Easily rubs, sweats, and rinses off, necessitating more
chemicals now utilised in sunscreens is spreading through the frequent reapplication when needed outside.
media and the Internet, discouraging people from wearing
sunscreens.[33]Chemical sunscreens are carbonyl-conjugated Few studies, have been done on the use of Polymeric
organic molecules that are typically aromatic.The amount of Nanoparticles (NPs) of the chemical and physical
UV protection that chemical sunscreens provide can be used constituents included in (titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, octyl
to categorise them. According to well-known studies, methoxycinnamate, oxybenzone, octocrylene, and
persistent pigment darkening (PPD) is a stable end point that luteolinon) to increase the effectiveness of sun protection. It
is induced by all UVA wavelengths and is unaffected by is necessary for UV-absorbing chemicals to build up in the
fluence rate; in other words, it is a trustworthy endogenous top layers of skin to ensure water resistance and a thick layer
UVA dosimeter in the skin.[34] of light absorption. Antioxidants may be added to food to
further benefit by scavenging free radicals. In this regard, the
 Problems Associated with Chemical Sunscreens Are: potential action of natural polyphenols as antioxidants and
photoprotectans makes them appealing.[38]
 Needs around 20 minutes to take effect after application.
 Chemical sunscreens can cause erythema, edoema, and IV. MATERIAL AND METHOD
irritation as a result of the multiple ingredients combined
to provide broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection, A. Material:
which can be particularly bothersome for people with dry
skin and a compromised moisture barrier.  NaCl
 Sensitive skin types are more susceptible to irritation the
higher the SPF (such as formulas with an SPF of 50 or
more).
 Reapplication is necessary more frequently because the
protection it provides is depleted more quickly in direct
UV radiation.
 Enhanced risk of redness in skin types susceptible to
rosacea, as it converts UV radiation into heat,
exacerbating flushing.
 May clog pores in skin types with oily pigmentation.[35]

Fig 2: NaCl

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Table salt's chemical name is sodium chloride. It is Borax helps a number of products act to inhibit
mostly utilised as a thickening, emulsifying, or texturizing microbial growth on and in the skin as well. Also, the Borax
agent in skincare products. Sodium chloride is frequently present in cosmetics, especially in lotions and creams, softens
used in exfoliating scrubs and some washing products to the water phase of the product, thereby enabling its
produce a mildly abrasive impact for skin exfoliation. While contrasting oil and water components to bind well
sodium chloride is usually thought to be safe to use in together.[41]
skincare products, people with sensitive or broken skin
should take caution when using products that include it as it  Triethanolamine
may cause discomfort.

 The Advantages of NaCl are

Exfloatation, texture and consistency, cleansing.[39]

 Paraffin Liquid

Fig 5: Triethanolamine

It is a tertiary amino compound, it has a role as a buffer

and a surfactant. It act as a stabilizer in creams and also act as
a thickening agent.[42]
Fig 3: Paraffin Liquid
 Zinc Oxide
Liquid Paraffin is a prescription medicine used in the
treatment of dry skin. This relieves dryness and leaves the
skin soft and hydrated.[40]

 Borax

Fig 6: Zinc Oxide

Zinc oxide is a great physical sunscreen because it

applies a thin coating to our skin that reflects UVA and UVB
radiation without penetrating. Zinc oxide gives you broad
spectrum protection from UVA, meaning your skin is getting
Fig 4: Borax the best sun protection possible.[43]

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 Glycerin V. RESULTS
Glycerin is commonly used with occlusives, another
type of moisturizing agent, to trap the moisture it draws into  Performed Various Evaluation Parameters that are
the skin.[44] Written Below:

 Bees Wax  Appearance :- we were able to determine the cream’s

Beeswax has excellent compatibility with oils, it is a appearance by looking at its colour, opacity.
little sticky, which can increase the movement resistance  Homogenicity :- The examination was conducted via
between organic sunscreen agents, thus reducing the manual hand contact.
precipitation and aggregation and making them evenly  pH :- The pH of the sunscreen should be measured in the
distributed.[45] pH meter after is calibration.[48]

B. Method Table 2: Determination of pH

It is an oil-in-water type emulsion product. Sr.no. Sunscreen pH
1. F1 6.05
C. Preparation of Oil Phase 2. F2 6.91
3. F3 7.21
 Add 3gm of bees wax in 4ml of paraffin liquid and heat
them on waterbath at 62℃ to 65℃.  Spreadability:
 After melting of beeswax add 2gm of zinc oxide and The spreadability of sunscreens determined their
0.5gm of methylparaben in it. therapeutic efficiency. The appropriate amount of sunscreen
 Stir them properly.[46] was applied between two slides, and under specified load
directions, and the two sides took the time in seconds to slide
off. Spreadability was defined as the amount of time it took
to separate two slides in less time.[49]

The formula for calculating it is:

𝑆 = 𝑀 × 𝐿 /𝑡

Where, M = weight tied to the upper slide

L = length of glass slide
T = time taken to separate the slide

Table 3: Spreadability test

Fig 7: Oil Phase
Sr.no. Sunscreen Spreadability(%)
D. Preparation of Water Phase 1. F1 98±0.9
2. F2 98±0.7
 Take 2% solution of NaCl, add 3ml of glycerin, 2ml of 3. F3 96±0.8
triethanolamine, and 2gm of borax.
 Heat all of them and stir properly.  Viscosity
It should be measured in a viscometer at 10 rpm. Using
Now slowly add the oil phase in water phase at a a 1/10 dilution of the cream in distilled water.[50]
temperature between 65℃ to 80℃ with a continuous
stirring.[47]Then add perfume for the fragrance. Table 4: Determination of Viscosity
Sr.no. Sunscreen Viscosity (cps)
Table 1: List of Chemicals 1. F1 181.0
Sr.no. Chemicals Quantity taken 2. F2 178.0
1 Beeswax 3gm 3. F3 180.5
2 Paraffin liquid 4ml
3 Zinc oxide 2gm  Sun Protection Factor (SPF)
4 Methylparaben 0.5gm The sun protection factor of a sunscreen is determined
5 Sodium chloride 2% by a highly regulated clinical test using lamps that stimulate
solar radiation on human volunteers. It measures the time
6 Glycerin 3ml
taken for a minimal erythema to appear when sunscreen is
7 Borax 2gm
applied compared to the minimal erythmal dose (MED)
8 Triethanolamine 2ml
without sunscreen.
9 Mogra q.s

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𝑴𝑬𝑫 𝒘𝒊𝒕𝒉 𝒔𝒖𝒏𝒔𝒄𝒓𝒆𝒆𝒏 The Study showed that Formulation was found to be
SPF = more stable with high SPF value, proving a better sunscreen.
𝑴𝑬𝑫 𝒘𝒊𝒕𝒉𝒐𝒖𝒕 𝒔𝒖𝒏𝒔𝒄𝒓𝒆𝒆𝒏
The use of sunscreen is an important component to sun
 SPF 15 protects against 93% of UVB rays. protection. Regular and appropriate use is associate with a
 SPF 30 protects against 97% of UVB rays. decreased risk of various skin complication and cancers as
 SPF 50 protects against 98% of UVB rays. result of radiation exposure. Thus it can be concluded that
 SPF 100 protects against 100% of UVB rays. there is great market potential for sunscreen chemicals either
synthetic or natural or in combination due to awareness of
So, this formulation of sunscreen gives about SPF 30 protection from hazardous UVA as well as UVB rays.
that means it gives 97% protection form UVB rays.[51]
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