PATTERN Adult and Puppy White English

Bulldogs

Materials:
• Crochet Hook - Size 1.75mm. and 2.00mm.
• Cloud White Chello Wools Tranquil Yarn
(70% Acrylic, 30% Wool)
• Glass Cabochon Flatback Brown Eyes
10mm.,12mm.
• Animal Nose -12mm. and 14mm. or make
your own with polymer clay (explained how)
• Tapestry Needle
• Stitch Markers
• Toy stuffing
• Glue
• Felt
Optional but suggested:
• Metal Wire (0.8-1 mm diam.)

Size: The Adult Dog is approx. 15cm. tall and

21cm. long. Puppy approx. 17cm. long

Crochet Abbreviations:
ch - chain
st - stitch
sc - single crochet
dec - decrease (sc2tog)
ddec - double decrease (sc3tog)
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
inc - increase (2sc. in 1st.)
sl st - slip stitch
() - repeat step
R - round Note: With different type of yarn the toy will be smaller or
FLO/BLO -Front/Back loops only
larger and you’ll need smaller or bigger crochet hook than
stated in the pattern.

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 Adult and Pappy English Bulldog

Adult and Puppy English Bulldog !

The Dogs crocheted in a continuous spiral rounds (without joining the rounds) with crochet hook
2mm. and Cloud White Chello Wools Tranquil Yarn (70% Acrylic, 30% Wool) it is no length on the
label but it is approx. 160-170m. in 50g. also used 10mm. and 12mm. Brown Glass Cabochon Flat
Back Animal Eyes and 12mm. and 14mm. Animal Noses (you can make your own one, explanation
is in “Tips and Techniques” pages). Pink Felt for paw prints. The eyes and nose and felt are glued on.

Adult Dog is approx. 21cm. long and 15cm. tall.

Puppy is approx. 17cm. long

Optional but suggested: metal wire 0.6-0.8 mm. for the

ears and front legs and eyeshadow makeup/ acrylic or other
paint/pencils/crayons that you are familiar with.

- Use a stitch marker (I recommend to use contrast yarn) to

mark the end or if you prefer the beginning of each round.
- Some parts of the item may crochet in rows not rounds.
- Work all the project using both loops of the stitch unless oth-
erwise noted.
- Some pictures may be presented with different colour of the
Yarn or some pictures can be from my other projects.
- Before you crochet the item, please read all pattern and “Tips
and Techniques” pages.

Adult Dog is crocheted with hook 2mm, puppy with 1.75mm. for Puppy nose is 12mm. and 10mm.
eyes and for adult nose 14mm. and eyes 12mm.
Head, Front and back legs and tail for BOTH dogs are crocheted the same way and the difference be-
tween two dogs is in the BODIES.
The bodies are a single pieces worked from bottom up. The back and front legs and tail are joined to
the body as you proceed. The head and the ears are crocheted separately and sewn on.

GAUGE.

Crochet a swatch to make sure you chose the right yarn if you like to have your finished item the
same size as mine.
R 1. 6 sc. in magic ring (6)
R 2. 6 inc. (12)
R 3. (1 sc., 1 inc) x 6. (18)
R 4. (2 sc., 1 inc) x 6. (24) hook 2mm. hook 1.75mm
R 5. (3 sc., 1 inc) x 6. (30)
R 6. (4 sc., 1 inc) x 6. (36)
R 7. (5 sc., 1 inc) x 6. (42)

Compare your swatch to the one in the pic-

ture. If your swatch is not the same size as
mine, take a bigger or smaller crochet
hook depending on you result and crochet another swatch. If it doesn't help, choose another yarn
and make another swatch.
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 Adult and Pappy English Bulldog

Head (Pattern is the same for both dogs)

Head is crochet in rounds and some part on muzzle crocheted in rows.
Stitch marker is in a middle/centre of bottom of the head (very important at muzzle part), please pay
attention to it and to the pictures.
Remember hook for Adult Dog is 2mm. and for Puppy 1.75mm.
Wrinkle above muzzle.

Crocheted in Rows.

Row 1. ch18., turn.

Row 2. from 2nd st. 4 sc., 2 hdc., 1 hdc inc., 3 hdc., 1 hdc inc., 2 hdc., 4 sc., ch1. turn (19)
Row 3. from 2nd st. 4 sc., 2 hdc., 1 dec., 3hdc., 1 dec, 2 hdc., 4 sc., ch1., turn (19)
Row 4. fold the piece in half and crochet through both sides same time (pic.) 17 sc. Fasten off. Cut
yarn.

FLO BLO

R 1. 6 sc. in magic ring (6)

R 2. 6 inc. (12)
R 3. (1 sc., 1 inc) x 6. (18)
R 4. (2 sc., 1 inc) x 6. (24)
R 5. (3 sc., 1 inc) x 6. (30) BLO
pic.1
R 6. (4 sc., 1 inc) x 6. (36)
R 7. (5 sc., 1 inc) x 6. (42)
R 8. (6 sc., 1 inc) x 6. (48)
R 9. (7 sc., 1 inc) x 6. (54)
R 10. 1 sc. in each st. around (54)
In R11. we will make wrinkle on forehead and will use some FLO ( front loops only) you can add
markers at beginning and at the end of BLO of R10.
R 11. 21 sc., FLO(11 sc.), 22 sc. (54)
R 12. 1 sc. in each st. around (54)
In R13. we use 11 BLO (pic.1) st. in R10. together with st. in R13.
R 13. 21sc., (now together with 11st. BLO of R10. 11sc.) 22 sc. (54)
R 14. 1 sc. in each st. around (54)

FLO
BLO

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Now we will make 2 wrinkles above the eyes and again will be used some FLO. Add markers.
R 15. 15 sc., FLO (8 sc.) 8 sc., FLO (8 sc.) 15 sc. (54)
R 16. 1 sc. in each st. around. (54)
R 17. (5 sc.,1 dec.)x 2, 26 sc., (1 dec., 5 sc.,) x2.(50)
In R18. we use 8 BLO of st. in R14. together with st. in R17. (pic.).
R 18. 7 sc., 1 dec., 4 sc., (now together with 8 BLO of R.14. 8sc.,) 8 sc., (now again together with 8
BLO of R.14. 8 sc.,) 4 sc., 1 dec., 7 sc. (48)
R 19. 13 sc., (1 dec.)x 2, 14 sc., (1 dec.)x 2, 13 sc. (44)
R 20. 1 sc. in each st. around (44)
R 21. 4 sc., 1 dec., 5 sc., 1 dec., 18 sc., 1 dec., 5 sc., 1 dec., 4 sc. (40)
In R22. we will crochet two vertical folds above muzzle.
R 22. 2 sc., 1 dec., 10 sc., 1 sc. into the next st. together with the back loop of the 4th st. to the left of
the hook, 3 sc. along the skipped st., 1 sc. into the unworked front loop, 2 sc., 1 sc. together with the
back loop of the 4th st. to the left of the hook, 3 sc. along the skipped st., 1 sc. into the unworked
front loop, 10 sc., 1 dec., 2 sc. (38)

Now keep in you mind that stitch marker should be in centre of the head (at bottom of the head), if
your stitch marker is not in centre of the head (happened often in spiral crocheting) then crochet
shift stitch or two, do not count shift st. If your marker is in a middle then ignore it ( shift st.) and
carry on as per pattern.

In R 23. we will crochet in crocheted earlier wrinkle (using 17 st.) (pic.2.) Make sure it will be located
in a centre of the head (front) add shift st. if needed.
R 23. 10 sc., 17 sc. together with wrinkle (insert hook in wrinkle st. first) (pic.2), 11 sc. (38) Sew on
later with a needle both wrinkle edges (green arrows on pic.) to the chicks.

R.22 R.22

4th st

shift st
first st
crochet 3sc. on this st.
pic.2

In R24. we will use BLO (highlighted in red) . All 22 of front loops (FLO) of R23. later will be used
for crocheting top of the muzzle with lips. BLO should be located in a centre of the wrinkle. Adjust st.
marker with shift stitch if needed.
R 24. add markers at beginning and end of BLO. 3 sc., 1 dec., 3 sc., now use BLO (2 sc., 1 dec.)x 5,
2 sc., 1 sc., 1 dec., 3 sc., 1 dec. (30)
R 25.-R27. 1 sc. in each st. around (30)+1 shift st. in R27. (3 rounds)
R 28. 3 hdc., 1 dec., (3 sc., 1 dec.)x4, 3 hdc., 1 dec. (24)
R 29. 2 hdc., 1 dec., (2 sc., 1 dec.)x5. (18) stuff the head, do not overstuff the head and the muzzle, it
should be soft for sculpting.
R 30. (1 sc., 1 dec.)x6. (12) stuff it more if needed but do not overstuff front of the muzzle. Muzzle
should be very soft.
R 31. (1 dec.)x6. (6) cut the yarn and close the hole with tapestry needle.

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 Adult and Pappy English Bulldog

pic.4
22st. pic.3

attach here attach here back loops BLO

Row1. completed

Now we will crochet top of the muzzle and lips. From now we’ll work in rows.

Please make sure that double decrease (sc3tog.) are always on top/centre of the muzzle.

Attach White Yarn to left side of the muzzle (red arrow on the pic.3 and pic.4) where we left for it 22
Front Loops Only (FLO) marked with metal stitch markers on the pictures above.

Row 1. 10 sc., 1 dec., 10 sc., ch1., turn. (21)

Row 2. from 2nd st. crochet 3 hdc. in 1 st., 2 hdc. in 1 st., 4 hdc., 9 sc., 4 hdc., 2 hdc. in 1 st.,
3 hdc. in 1 st., ch1., turn. (27)
Row 3. from 2nd st. 7 hdc., 13 sc., 7 hdc., ch1., turn. (27)
Row 4. from 2nd st. 27 sc., turn (27) ( please note is no ch.1 at the end)
Row 5. from 2nd st. 11 sc., sc3tog., 10 sc., 1 sl. st. turn (23)
Row 6. from 2nd st. 3 sc., 4 hdc., 1 dec., sc3tog., 1 dec., 4 hdc., 2 sc., 1 sl. st. and fasten off. Cut
yarn and leave long end to sew the lips to the muzzle.

You can add some stuffing in “lips” at this point if you like.

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Ears (make 2.) (Pattern is the same for both dogs)

The ears are crocheted in rows (Row) not in rounds (R.).

Before you make ch13, leave long end of yarn approx. 1.2m. long, it will be used later to crochet
around the ears. and for sewing.

Left Ear.

Row 1. ch13., turn.

Row 2. from 2nd st. crochet 1 inc., 11 sc., ch1., turn.
Row 3. from 2nd st. 12 sc., 1 inc., ch1., turn.
Row 4. from 2nd st. 12 sc., 1 dec., ch1., turn.
Row 5. from 2nd st. 1 dec., 11 sc., ch1., turn.
Row 6. from 2nd st. 10 sc., 1 dec., ch1., turn.
Row 7. from 2nd st. 1 dec., 9 sc., ch1., turn.
Row 8. from 2nd st. 8 sc., 1 dec., ch1., turn.
Row 9. from 2nd st. 1 dec., 7 sc., ch1., turn.
Row 10. from 2nd st. 6 sc., 1 dec., ch1., turn.
Row 11. from 2nd st. 1 dec., 3 sc., 1 dec., ch1., turn.
Row 12. from 2nd st. 1 dec., 1 sc., 1 dec., ch1., turn.
Row 13. from 2nd st. sc3tog., ch1. Fasten off and cut yarn.
If you will use wire for the ear, leave the work a side and cut the wire.

Optional but suggested: Cut 2 peaces of metal wire (0.6-0.8mm.) approx. 13-15 cm. each and add it
when you’ll crochet sc. all around each ear. (pic.) Bend the ends of wires with pliers and later before
you sew the ear to the head insert the ends of wire in the head to hide it there. Also you can mask
sharp ends of the wires with masking tape.

Right Ear.

Row 1. ch13., turn.

Row 2. from 2nd st. crochet 11 sc., 1 inc., ch1., turn.
Row 3. from 2nd st. 1 inc., 12 sc., ch1., turn.
Row 4. from 2nd st. 1 dec., 12 sc., ch1., turn.
Row 5. from 2nd st. 11 sc., 1 dec., ch1., turn.
Row 6. from 2nd st. 1 dec., 10 sc.,ch1., turn.
Row 7. from 2nd st. 9 sc., 1 dec., ch1., turn.
Row 8. from 2nd st. 1 dec., 8 sc., ch1., turn.
Row 9. from 2nd st. 7 sc., 1 dec., ch1., turn.
Row 10. from 2nd st. 1 dec., 6 sc., ch1., turn.
Row 11. from 2nd st. 1 dec., 3 sc., 1 dec., ch1., turn.
Row 12. from 2nd st. 1 dec., 1 sc., 1 dec., ch1., turn.
Row 13. from 2nd st. sc3tog., ch1. Cut yarn and fasten off.

Crochet around the ears with wire: with long end yarn crochet sc. all around the ear ( with wire
same time if you use it) excl. part where will sewing to the head, work on top of the ear 3 sc. in one
st., leave long end for sewing.

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 Adult and Pappy English Bulldog

Head assembly. (the same for both dogs)

With a tapestry needle and yarn/thread ( I used the same that I crochet with) we will do some head
sculpting. Please ref. to the pictures.
Insert the needle and secure the yarn in position 1. and insert the needle again in 1. and take the
needle out in 2. pull the yarn tight, then again insert the needle with 1st. apart in 2. and take it out in
1. pull the yarn a little bit and secure the yarn and cut it. Repeat the same for another eye and ear (3-
4-4-3). Shape it dipper in eyes area with your fingers.
The blue pins are located between 2nd and 3rd round from muzzle, and white pins are between 12
and 13 rounds.

Wrinkles.

4 2

1 3

Every dogs wrinkles are unique and

can be any shape and sizes, please
find below how I made more of them
for my dog. The technique will be the
same: with tapestry needle and yarn
pinch “skin” on dog forehead and
stitch it length way. Please ref. to the
pictures. If you decide not to make
any more wrinkles than sew on the
ears now, yellow pins are for position of the ears, but if you are going to make more wrinkles so it is
easier to make wrinkles before you’ll sew on the ears.
Now we’ll complete the wrinkles around dogs eyes: begin sewing where you crocheted vertical folds
above the muzzle (we made them in R22.), my other wrinkle is between them.

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- sew on the ears by slightly arch back of each ear. (pic.). Remember to insert wire before sewing.
- glue on nose. Make sure nose is deeper and the chin is little bit forward.

Eye with upper eyelid (make 2) (same for both dogs)

Eyelid (make 2).

R 1. 12 sc. in magic ring (12)

R 2. short round: 2sc., 4 hdc., 2 sc., and 1 slip stitch, cut off the yarn and leave long end to sew it to
the head.

Glue on the eyes to the eyelids and sew it to the dogs head.

- optional: paint eyes, nose and lips area with acrylic paint/eye-
shadows/pencils/crayons or anything that you are familiar with.

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Back Legs. ( make 2.) (Pattern is the same for both dogs)
In the legs better to make invisible decreases when you using front loops for it.
R 1. 6 sc. in magic ring (6)
R 2. (1 inc.) x 6. (12) hdc3tog
R 3. (1 sc., 1 inc) x 6. (18)
R 4. 1 sl. st., (3 hdc. in one st., 1 sl. st. ) x 4., 9 sc. (26)
R 5. 1 sc., (hdc3tog., 1 sc.) x 4., 9 sc. (18)
R 6. 1 sc., (1 invisible dec.) x 4, 9 sc. (14)
R 7.-12. 1 sc. in each st. around (14) (6 rounds)
Stuff bottom of the leg only.
Fold top of the leg in half and crochet 7 sc. through both sides of the leg as shown on the picture.
Fasten off.

hdc3tog

Front Legs. ( make 2.)

R 1. 6 sc. in magic ring (6)
R 2. (1 inc.) x 6. (12)
R 3. (1 sc., 1 inc) x 6. (18)
R 4. 1 sl. st., (3 hdc. in one st., 1 sl. st. ) x 4., 9 sc. (26)
R 5. 1 sc., (hdc3tog., 1 sc.) x 4., 9 sc. (18)

hdc3tog

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R 6. 1 sc., (1 invisible dec.) x 4, 9 sc. (14)

R 7.-18. 1 sc. in each st. around (14) (12 rounds)
R 19. 4 sc. only. Cut Yarn and finish open edge invisibly as it explained in “Tips and Techniques”,
ref. to the pic.below.

pull out

pull out secure and hide end

Tail.

R 1. 6 sc. in magic ring (6)

R 2. (1 sc., 1 inc.) x 2, 2 sc. (8)
R 3. 1 sc. in each st. around (8). Do not stuff it. Fold the top of the tail in
half and crochet 4sc. through both sides of the tail. Cut off yarn.

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Body For Adult Dog.

Stitch marker is in a middle of the body at front. Keep it always in a middle of the body.

Start with: ch 10. + ch 1. to climb (12) < next round R1. we work around both sides of the chain >
R 1. from 2nd st. from the hook 9 sc., 4 sc. in the same ch. base < Would be the 10th ch of the chain
without counting the ch. to climb> – Continue crochet in a continuous round around all the chain –
9 sc., 3 sc. in the same ch base <Would be the 1st ch of the chain but the other side – do not count at
the end the ch to climb> (24)
R 2. crochet 4 st. and add stitch marker (in should be in a middle) (4)
R 3. (3 sc., 1 inc) x 6. (30)
R 4. (4 sc., 1 inc) x 6. (36)
R 5. (5 sc., 1 inc) x 6. (42)
R 6. (6 sc., 1 inc) x 6. (48)
R 7. (7 sc., 1 inc) x 2., (3 sc., 1 inc.)x4., 7 sc., 1 inc., 8sc. (55)
R 8. 1 sc. in each st. around. (55) R2. completed
If your st. marker should be in a middle of the body, if is not in a middle of
the body please adjust it.
In R 9. we will attach the tail (4st.).
I marked with metal st. markers stitches 26 and 29 for the tail.

R 9. 14 sc., (1 inc., 4 sc.)x2, 1 inc., crochet 4 sc. through the tail (pic.) and the body same time 1 sc.,
(1 inc., 4 sc.)x2, 1 inc., 14 sc. (61)

4st.

R 10. 12 sc., (1 inc., 17 sc.)x2, 1 inc., 12 sc. (64)

R 11. 15 sc., 1 inc., 32 sc., 1 inc., 15 sc. (66)

In R 12. we will attach back legs.

I marked with metal st. markers stitches 5 and 11 for first leg and 56 and 62 for second leg.
R 12. 4 sc., 7 sc. through leg (pic.) and body same time, 44 sc. and 7 sc. through another leg and
body same time, 4 sc. (66)

R12. completed
7st. 7st.

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R 13.- 19. 1 sc. in each st. around. (66) (7 rounds)

Keep in your mind that your stitch marker should be in a centre of the body. shift st.
If your stitch marker now is not in a middle of the body ( happened often in spiral
crocheting) then crochet shift stitch or two (+1 st. in my case), do not count shift
st. If your marker is in a middle then ignore it (shift st.) and carry on as per pat-
tern.
R 20. 12 sc., (sc3tog)x 3, 24 sc.,( sc3tog)x 3, 12 sc. (54)
R 21.-28.1 sc. in each st. around. (54) (8 rounds) double dec st.( sc3tog)

Now we will make skin fold.

In R29. we will make skin fold and will use some FLO ( front loops only)
you can add markers at beginning and at the end of BLO of R28. (pic.)
R 29. 20 sc., now use FLO 14 sc., 20 sc. (54)
R 30.-31. 1 sc. in each st. around. (54) (2 rounds)
In R32. we use 14 BLO of st. in R31. together with st. in R28. (pic.)
R 32. 20 sc., (now together with 14 BLO of R28. 14sc.) 20 sc. (54)

skin fold completed

R32.

R 33.-35. 1 sc. in each st. around. (54) (3 rounds)

If your stitch marker now is not in a middle of the body then add shift stitch.
In R36. we will attach front legs. In R36. we will use 5 st. at back of the leg and in R37. we will use
rest 9st. at front of the leg. Fold top of the leg in half and add markers on back of the leg (in a mid-
dle) legs as shown on the pic. with 3 st. between markers.
On body add markers in R35 on st.8 and 12 for first leg and st.43 and 47 for second leg.
R 36. 7 sc., 5 sc. through leg+body, 30 sc., 5 sc. through another leg + body, 7 sc. (54)
In R37. we also will make another skin fold with the same technique as before.
R 37. 7 sc., 9 sc. through leg+body, 4 sc.,now FLO 22sc., 4 sc., 9 sc. leg + body, 7 sc. (62)

5st. R36.
5st.
5st.
5st.
5st.

R 38.-39.1 sc. in each st. around. (62) (2 rounds)

In R40. we use 22 BLO of st. in R36. together with st. in R40.
R 40. 20 sc., (now together with 22 BLO of R36. 22sc.) 20 sc. (62)
R 41. 1 sc. in each st. around. (62)
R 42. 2 sc., 1 dec., 54 sc., 1 dec., 2 sc. (60)

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R36. completed R36. completed R37. R37. completed

R 43. 2 sc., 1 dec., 6 sc., 1 dec., 36 sc., 1 dec., 6 sc., 1 dec., 2 sc. (56)
R 44. 1 dec., 2 sc., 1 dec., 44 sc., 1 dec., 2 sc., 1 dec.(52)
In R45. we also will make another skin fold with the same technique as before.
R 45. 20 sc., now use FLO 12 sc., 20 sc. (52)
R 46. 1 sc. in each st. around. (52)
R 47. 2 sc., 1 dec., 44 sc., 1 dec., 2 sc. (50)
In R48. we use 12 BLO of st. in R44. together with st. in R28.
R 48. 19 sc., (now together with 12 BLO of R44. 12sc.) 15 sc., 1 dec., 2 hdc. (49)
If your stitch marker now is not in a middle of the body then add shift stitch.
R 49. 2 hdc., 1 dec., 38 sc., 7 hdc. + continue crochet 7 hdc., 1 sc.., turn and from 2-nd. st. from the
hook 1 sl. st., 1 sc., 11 hdc., 1 sc., 1 sl. st. and fasten off. Leave long end for sewing.

Now stuff body up to front legs, add some plastic pellets ( rice/small stones/glass pebbles) to add
more weight to the toy, make sure you shape with stuffing the hips area.

Cut wire approx. 23-25 cm. long or as long as shown on the pic., make loops on both ends and you
can wrap it with tape ( I used microporous tape) then insert wire in both front legs and add stuffing
around the wire, then stuff rest of the body. Make sure you stuff well chest and shoulders area. We
will add final stuffing when will sew on the head to the body.

wire

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Assembly.

— try with pins different positions of the head and sew it on, remember to add some
more stuffing in neck area if needed.
— optional: sew back legs to the body, to keep it in one position.
— optional: from Black or Pink Felt cut circles for paw prints and glue them on.
— optional: with velcro tape or metal animal brush dog brush little bit the dog, trim
it where needed.
— with crochet hook or tapestry needle shape little bit stuffing in front legs, shoul-
ders, chest, hips, back, head, muzzle, till you are happy with it.

Make some finishing touches if needed and your English Bulldog is ready.

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Body Puppy.

Stitch marker is in a middle of the body at front. Keep it always in a middle of the body.

Start with: ch 10. + ch 1. to climb (12) < next round R1. we work around both sides of the chain >
R 1. from 2nd st. from the hook 9 sc., 4 sc. in the same ch. base < Would be the 10th ch of the chain
without counting the ch. to climb> – Continue crochet in a continuous round around all the chain –
9 sc., 3 sc. in the same ch base <Would be the 1st ch of the chain but the other side – do not count at
the end the ch to climb> (24)
R 2. crochet 4 st. and add stitch marker (in should be in a middle) (4)
R 3. (3 sc., 1 inc) x 6. (30)
R 4. (4 sc., 1 inc) x 6. (36)
R 5. (5 sc., 1 inc) x 6. (42)
R 6. (6 sc., 1 inc) x 6. (48)
R 7. (7 sc., 1 inc) x 2., (3 sc., 1 inc.)x4., 7 sc., 1 inc., 8sc. (55)
R 8. 1 sc. in each st. around. (55) R2. completed
If your st. marker should be in a middle of the body, if is not in a middle of
the body please adjust it.
In R 9. we will attach the tail (4st.).
I marked with metal st. markers stitches 26 and 29 for the tail.

R 9. 13 sc., (1 inc., 4 sc.)x2, 1 sc., crochet 4 sc. through the tail (pic.) and the body same time 1 sc.,
(1 inc. 4 sc.)x2, 1 inc., 14 sc. (61)

4st.

R 10. 12 sc., (1 inc., 17 sc.)x2, 1 inc., 12 sc. (64)

R 11. 15 sc., 1 inc., 32 sc., 1 inc., 15 sc. (66)
In R 12. we will attach back legs.
I marked with metal st. markers stitches 5 and 11 for first leg and 56 and 62 for second leg.
R 12. 4 sc., 7 sc. through leg (pic.) and body same time, 44 sc. and 7 sc. through another leg and
body same time, 4 sc. (66)

R12. completed
7st. 7st.

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R 13.- 19. 1 sc. in each st. around. (66) (7 rounds)

Keep in your mind that your stitch marker should be in a centre of the body.
If your stitch marker now is not in a middle of the body ( happened often in spiral
crocheting) then crochet shift stitch or two (+1 st. in my case), do not count shift
st. If your marker is in a middle then ignore it (shift st.) and carry on as per pat-
tern with R19.
R 20. 12 sc., (sc3tog)x 3, 24 sc.,( sc3tog)x 3, 12 sc. (54)
R 21.1 sc. in each st. around. (54)
Now we will make dog skin fold.
In R22. we will make skin fold and will use some FLO ( front loops only)
you can add markers at beginning and at the end of BLO of R21.
R 22. 18 sc., now use FLO 18 sc., 18 sc. (54)
R 23.-24. 1 sc. in each st. around. (54) (2 rounds)
In R25. we use 18 BLO of st. in R20. together with st. in R24. (pic.).
R 25. 18 sc., (now together with 18 BLO of R21. 18sc.) 18 sc. (54)

18st.

R25. completed

R 26.-28. 1 sc. in each st. around. (54) (3 rounds)

Now we will make another skin fold with the same technique and with markers.
R 29. 20 sc., now use FLO 14 sc., 20 sc. (54)
R 30.-31. 1 sc. in each st. around. (54) (2 rounds)
In R32. we use 14 BLO of st. in R31. together with st. in R28.
R 32. 20 sc., (now together with 14 BLO of R28. 14sc.) 20 sc. (54)
R 33.-35. 1 sc. in each st. around. (54) (3 rounds)
If your stitch marker now is not in a middle of the body then add shift stitch.
In R36. we will attach front legs. In R36. we will use 5 st. of back of the leg and in R37. we will use
rest 9st. at front of the leg. Fold top of the leg in half and add markers on back of the leg (in a mid-
dle) legs as shown on the pic. with 3 st. between markers.
On body add markers in R35 on st.8 and 12 for first leg and st.43 and 47 for second leg.
R 36. 7 sc., 5 sc. through leg+body, 30 sc., 5 sc. through another leg + body, 7 sc. (54)
In R37. we also will make another skin fold with the same technique as before.
R 37. 7 sc., 9 sc. through leg+body, 4 sc.,now FLO 22sc., 4 sc., 9 sc. leg + body, 7 sc. (62)

5st. 5st. R36.

5st.

5st. 5st.

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 Adult and Pappy English Bulldog

R36. completed R37.

R36. completed

9st.

R37. completed

R 38. 6 sc., 1 dec., 2 sc., 1 dec., 2 sc., sc3tog., 28 sc., sc3tog., 2sc., 1 dec., 2 sc., 1 dec., 6 sc. (54)
R 39. (2 sc., 1 dec.)x2., 4 sc., 1 dec., 26 sc., 1 dec., 4 sc., (1 dec., 2 sc.)x2 (48)
In R40. we use 22 BLO of st. in R36. together with st. in R40.
R 40. 13 sc., (now together with 22 BLO of R36. 22sc.) 13 sc. (48)
R 41. 1 sc. in each st. around. (48)
R 42. (6 sc., 1 dec.)x6. (42)
R 44. 1 sc. in each st. around. (42) stuff front legs but do not overstuff top part of the legs. Stuff
body and make sure you stuff and shape the hips and keep front of the body flat.

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 Adult and Pappy English Bulldog

Assembly.

— try with pins different positions of the head and sew it on, remember to add some
more stuffing in neck area if needed.

— optional: sew front and back legs to the body, to keep it in one position.

— optional: from Black or Pink Felt cut circles for paw prints and glue them on.

With crochet hook or tapestry needle shape little bit stuffing in front legs, hips, back,
head, muzzle, till you are happy with it. Make sure the front of the body is flat. I
“brush” the dog with velcro tape.

Make some finishing touches if needed and your Cute English Bulldog Puppy is ready!

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 Adult and Pappy English Bulldog

Congratulations, you’ve completed your Adult and Puppy English

Bulldogs !

If you used different yarn the items will be smaller or larger and you’ll need bigger or smaller crochet
hook than stated in the pattern.

Warning: Finished project may have small and sharp parts. This is decorative item
and is not suitable for small children.

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 Adult and Pappy English Bulldog

COPYRIGHT.

This pattern may not be translated, reproduced or circulated in another language.

Finished product created with my pattern may be used for sale.

If you would like to sell your item you must have your own copy of the pattern. If you wish to sell this
item you cannot use my pictures.

Any items for sale must state in the item description that they are based on pattern design by hugles
and with link to my shop www.etsy.com/shop/hugles

Thank you!

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 Tips and Techniques

Tips and Techniques.

HOW TO MAKE ANIMAL/DOG NOSE WITH OVEN BAKE POLYMER CLAY.

Below is explanation how I make animal/dog nose with oven baked polymer clay. Please ref. to the
pictures.

You will need:

- ruler,
- needle/toothpick,
- pin,
- polymer clay,
- gloss vanish.

Take a piece of clay and make it soft with your hands, roll it into ball (measure the size what you
needed) then shape it into oval and after it in nose shape, make with needle line in a middle, with
pin make two nostrils (press it down) and finally with a needle make lines down from the nostrils.
Make some finishing touches.
Bake in oven at 130 C/265 F for 30 minutes, let it cool down and paint it ones or twice with gloss
vanish.

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