Understanding Apparel Quality

Assignment-2

Ananya Vatsa
Vaishnavi Chaudhari
Spreading Defects
1. Pattern Parts Missing:
○ Cause: An oversight between the marker maker and the design team may result in the incorrect
number of pattern parts being included in the marker layout.
2. Mixed Parts:
○ Cause: Poor labelling or identification of pattern parts on the marker can lead to confusion
during cutting, resulting in the incorrect joining of parts of different sizes.
3. Incorrect Pattern Orientation on Napped Fabrics:
○ Cause: Lack of attention to detail or training in pattern alignment may lead to patterns not facing
in the correct direction on napped fabrics, impacting garment appearance and quality.
4. Patterns Not Aligned with Fabric Grain:
○ Cause: Insufficient training or awareness among production staff regarding the importance of
aligning patterns with the fabric grain can result in misaligned patterns, affecting garment fit and
drape.
5. Poor Line Definitions:
○ Cause: Inadequate maintenance of equipment such as chalk markers or perforated lays may
lead to poor line definition during marking, resulting in inaccurate cutting and wastage of fabric.
6. Skimpy Marking:
○ Cause: Pressure to optimise fabric usage or worn-out pattern edges may lead to skimpy
marking practices, where patterns are squeezed into smaller spaces on the fabric,
compromising the accuracy of cutting.
7. Generous Marking:
○ Cause: A combination of factors such as inadequate training, improper marker placement, or
worn pattern edges can result in generous marking, leading to fabric wastage and sewing
issues like puckering or pleating.
8. Marker Too Wide:
○ Cause: Inaccurate marker placement or insufficient attention to marker width settings may result
in parts being cut with bits missing at the edge of the lay, affecting garment integrity and quality.

9. Mismatched Checks and Stripes:

○ Cause: Lack of precision in pattern placement or insufficient attention to pattern alignment may
result in mismatched checks or stripes, detracting from the overall aesthetic appeal of the
garment.
10. Omitted Notches and Drill Marks:
○ Cause: Oversight or negligence during pattern marking may lead to the omission,
indistinctness, or misplacement of notches and drill marks, affecting assembly accuracy and
garment construction quality.

A collective solution to all the defects in the spreading department would be looking at certain parameters
during quality checking like:
➢ Place the patterns correctly
➢ Evening out after spreading each ply
➢ There’s a correct cut order plan
➢ Not mixing dye or shade lots, having a separation between each one of them
➢ Giving proper relaxation time for the fabric to shrink.
 Cutting Defects
Cutting defects can have a significant impact on the overall production process, leading to increased costs,
wasted materials
1. Miss cut: Mistakenly the cuter man followed the pattern, as most of the cutting process is manual in
the garments industry. Missing the cutting line is a missed cut in the garments industry.
2. Running shade: Shade variation in the roll lengthwise, some distances have one shade and another.
3. Matching plies: Each ply of Fabric under one layer has to match with each other.
4. Numbering & bundling: Improper numbering and bundling are critical defects in garment
manufacturing.
5. Bowing in Fabric: Bowing fabric in the cutting room can be a common issue in the garment industry.
“Bowing” refers to the fabric becoming distorted or skewed, which can lead to inaccuracies in cutting
patterns. To solve this problem the fabric should be spread in equal tension throughout
6. Missing or incorrect Notch mark: Notch marks play a crucial role in the cutting process, especially in
garment and pattern-making. Notches are small, triangular, or V-shaped marks placed along the edges
of pattern pieces.
7. Rugged cut: This is the opposite word of even cutting so the edges are rugged.
8. Fabric way: According to fabric construction, woven and knit fabrics have a weaving or knitting yarn
placement. Cutting rooms have to follow the buyer-approved sample to maintain the right fabric way.
9. Measurement: The cut panels have to match the CAD pattern spec. The cutting process has to be
precise and even more or less than 1 mm deviation is a defect.
10. Tension Loose: Incorrect ply tension can lead to various sizes and parts missing bits in the parts of
the garment.
11. Alignment: Uneven or inaccurate notches and slits can lead to problems during sewing, such as
misalignment of seams and patterns.
12. Skew: When fabric layers shift during the cutting process, it can cause pieces to be cut at an angle,
resulting in irregular seams and fit issues.

Sewing Defects
Defect Definition Causes Solutions Images

Seam Puckering Seam puckering -Uneven stretching onto -Feed dog, eyelets and thread
refers to the plies of fabric during guides should be checked
gathering of a seam sewing. periodically for damages.
either just after -Improper thread tension -The machine feed mechanism
sewing or after must be of better quality.
laundering causing -Tension, SPI and presser foot
an unacceptable pressure should not be fiddled
seam appearance with.
Open seam or A portion of the -Improper handling of the -Clear markings for stitch lines.
broken seam garment that has not parts of garments. -Proper setting and timing
been covered by -Improper setting and between needle and looper or
sewing thread timing between needle and hook.
looper or hook etc. -Tension should be quantifiable.

Broken Stitch Non-continuous It appears due to improper -Needle plate, presser foot and
sewing thread trimming or machine feed dog should be checked
usage. periodically for damages.
-Tension and threading should
not be fiddled with much.
-Proper trimming.

Drop Irregular stitching It appears due to improper -Placing the needle properly.
stitch/Skipped along the seam handling of cut pieces or -Needle size & thread size must
stitch machine usage. be adjusted.
-The pressure of the foot must be
adjusted accurately.

Uncut/ loose Extra threads or It appears due to improper -UBT/thread trimmer should be
thread loose threads on the trimming or finishing. used
seam line -Operator training.
-Garment finishing should be
checked properly.

Seam slippage The tendency for a This happens when the -French seam type can be tried.
seam to open due to yarns in the fabric are -Seam width can be increased.
the application of a pulled out of the seam and
force perpendicular
is more frequent in fabrics
to the seam
direction made from continuous
filament yarns

Needle hole Due to the missing needle. -Thoroughly cleaning the

Insufficient cleaning. machine.
Breakage of yarn at a knot. -An air gun is used to eliminate
Extremely tight yarn twist. dust.
-Check with a broken needle

Ropy hem It does not lay flat Typically brought on by Tell the sewer to make sure the
and appears careless operator hem is properly started in the
crooked. fabric before they begin sewing
handling.
by a folder.
Watch out for excessive holding
back when the seam is being
sewn.
Apply the lightest possible roller
or presser foot pressure.
Finishing Defects

Poor pressing in the shoulder seam: Bubbling can be seen around the shoulder after it has been
pressed
Cause: Due to differential shrinkage or the seam was made with too much shrinkage
Solution: Maintain firm tension until the cloth has been set in place by the vacuum.

DEFECT DEFINITION CAUSES SOLUTIONS