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Textile Recycling Technologies, Colouring and Finishing Methods | Le

Textile Recycling Technologies,

Colouring and Finishing Methods
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 Nội dung
1. Tình hình chung về các loại vật lieu dệt tái chế

2. Công nghệ tái chế

2
 . Tình hình chung
Textile fibre recycling of polyester, nylon, cotton and wool are discussed in this section, with a
general focus on fibre-to-fibre (f2f) recycling, and overview of technologies for fibre blend
recycling. Examples of current mechanical and chemical recycling stakeholders are highlighted.
1
Table 2 summarizes options for mechanical and chemical recycling developed to commercial scale
or demonstrated, for fibres of interest.

Minimum Minimum
Mechanical Input Input
Fibre Chemical Recycling
Recycling Composition, Composition,
% %
100 (f2f)*
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Closed-loop ✔ 70-80 /100*

Polyester
Closed- ✔ *, ** No
So
Varied *
Other
applications (mainly post-
loop requirement** sánh
✔ (i.e. various
(open-loop or
downcycled)
industrial) polycotton blend
ratios)
các pp
Closed-loop 100 (f2f)*
Must be same 100*
tái chế
̽̽̽ relatively low ✔
volume type (6 or 6,6)
Closed- ✔* của
Nylon
Other
applications
Varied *
(mainly post-
loop
(only for
Nylon 6) các
✔
(open-loop or
downcycled)
industrial) loại vl
100 (f2f)*
✔ *, **
dệt ?
Closed-loop ✔ 100 *
(regenerated
Closed- cellulosic,
Cotton not 100%
No
Other Varied * loop requirement**
recycled
applications ✔ (mainly post- cotton (i.e. various
(open-loop or industrial) product) polycotton blend
downcycled) ratios)
>80 (f2f)*
Closed-loop ✔ N/A
Closed-
Wool X
Other 30-100* loop
applications ✔ (application
(open-loop or dependent)
downcycled)
Table 2: General Summary of Available Recycling Options for Polyester, Nylon, Cotton, and Wool.
* commercial scale
** developed/demonstrated
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microplastic release in aquatic systems which have characterized and reported the presence of

. Tình hình chung

substantial amounts of polyester (majority) among synthetic microfibres and particles collected
from wastewater treatment facilities.12
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Polyester is produced by condensing monoethylene glycol (MEG) and purified terephthalic acid
(PTA) or dimethyl terephthalate (DMT).6 To form fibres, PET pellets are heated, forming fibres
and melt-spun into filament yarns. Yarns may be texturized to resemble cotton or wool yarns.29 To
Khoảng 7% tổng sản lượng sợi polyester được sản xuất
form fabrics, yarns are knit or woven. Approximately 7% of total polyester fibre production is
derived from recycled polyester materials.18
từ vật liệu polyester tái chế

Figure 6: Virgin polyester production methods. Modified and reproduced from [30,31].
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 3.1.2 Polyester 1 . Tìnhand
Recovery hình chung
Recycling
The grades of PET polymers differ in terms of physical properties, which ultimately affects
recycling, andĐộdesignates
nhớt (IVtheintrinsic
intended viscosity)
applications. là một
The tínhviscosity
intrinsic chất vật lý is an important
(IV)
quanthattrọng,
physical property là thước
is a measure of the đo về trọng
polymer lượng
molecular phân
weight, and istử polymer
related to the material’s
melting point,và có liên quan
crystallinity, andđến điểm
tensile nóng32 chảy,
strength. độ kết
PET bottle tinhhasvàa độ
resin higher IV and
crystallinity, whereas fibre grade PET for textiles and technical applications range from low to
bền kéo của vật liệu.Độ nhớt thay đổi như thế nào?
high IV values (Table 3).11
Intrinsic Viscosity
Application
Value
Textiles 0.40-0.70
Fibre Grade
Technical 0.72-0.98
Water bottles 0.70-0.78
Bottle Grade
Carbonated soft drink grade 0.78-0.85
Biaxially oriented PET film 0.60-0.70
Film Grade
Thermoforming sheet 0.70-1.00
Monofilament 1.00-2.00
Engineering Grade
Table 3: Intrinsic Viscosity Values of Different PET grades. Reproduced from [11].
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 -Collection, sorting, separation, and removal of contaminants or non-target materials

.
-Reduction of size – crushing, grinding, shredding, or pulling
1 Tình
-Heating/re-melting, and extrusion
-Melt extrusion into fibres
hìnhpellets
into resin chung
Táifibres
-Processing of chế tocơfabric
học PET: Qt nào quan trọng nhất? Nhược điểm
là gì?

Figure 7: General route for mechanical recycling of polyester. 33-35,34,35

6 to
The PET recovered from mechanical recycling is often used in lower value applications, due
chemical finishing, as well as the creation of other end products of equal value.33 For fibre-to-fibre

. Tình hình chung

recycling, the desired end products to reproduce virgin quality PET resin are the main monomer
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constituents of PET: ethylene glycol and purified terephthalic acid (PTA) or dimethyl terephthalate
(DMT).33 The most common depolymerization methods include: hydrolysis, methanolysis,
glycolysis, or hybrid routes.6
Tái chế hóa học PET:Review

Figure 8: Overview of different approaches for chemical recycling of polyester

(monomer products repolymerized to polyester). Modified and reproduced from [6,33].
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 1. Tình hình chung
Textile Recycling Technologies, Colouring and Finishing Methods | Le

3.1.3 Current Recycling Stakeholders

Một số nhà Sx cung cấp PET tái chế cơ học:
Table 4: Polyester - Mechanical Recycling Stakeholders
Company Feedstock/Input, Product/Output Description or Processes
Requirements
Hyosung 37 Post-consumer PET Regen™ polyester yarn, Mechanical recycling
(South Korea) bottles 100% recycled
Polylana 38 Recycled polyester Polylana® staple fibre Polylana® modified polyester pellets
(USA) (rPET) materials (i.e. (patent pending) mixed with rPET flakes, proprietary
rPET flakes made staple fibre created, spun into yarn.
from bottles) The fibre blend can be dyed at low
temperatures, blended with various
natural and synthetic fibre materials.
RadiciGroup 39 Post-consumer PET r-Radyarn® r-Radyarn®: continuous PET
(Italy) bottles r-Starlight® yarns filament, with dope dyed,
bacteriostatic, UV stabilized versions
Seaqual 40 Waste recovered from 100% recycled polyester From the ocean waste collected, PET
(Spain) the ocean weekly thread plastic is collected for conversion,
(boats and fisherman while other waste materials are sent to
from the Spanish their respective recycling chains
Mediterranean Coast The output recycled fibres can be
involved in project) blended with fibres from other brands.
Sinterama 41 Post-consumer PET NEWLIFE™ polyester Dyeable from 98°C (low temperature)
(Italy) bottles yarn, 100% recycled with standard polyester dyestuff,
along with different fibres while
maintaining mechanical properties.
Stein Fibres 42 Post-consumer PET Infinity Polyester, 100% Largest producers of polyester 8
 Mediterranean Coast The output recycled fibres can be

.
involved in project) blended with fibres from other brands.
Sinterama 41 Post-consumer PET
Tình
1 NEWLIFE™ hình
polyester
chung
Dyeable from 98°C (low temperature)
(Italy) bottles yarn, 100% recycled with standard polyester dyestuff,
Một số nhà Sx cung cấp PET tái chế cơalong học: with different fibres while
maintaining mechanical properties.
Stein Fibres 42 Post-consumer PET Infinity Polyester, 100% Largest producers of polyester
(USA) bottles, post-industrial recycled polyester fiber. fibrefill and non-woven fibres in
textile waste 2 Streams: North America.
Gold (100% post-
consumer PET bottle Distribution (relevant to Canada):
flake) and Silver (at least Charlotte-Toronto, and Montreal-
30% post-consumer bottle Vancouver
flake, remainder is post-
industrial reclaimed PET)
Teijin 43 Post-consumer PET ECOPET™ staple fibre, Mechanical recycling
(Japan) bottles spun yarn, fibre product
Toray 44 Post-consumer PET ECOUSE™ fabrics Mechanical process blends recycled
(Japan) bottles, post-industrial PET pellets with cotton, to spin to
textile waste thread for ECOUSE™ products.
Unifi 45 Post-consumer PET Repreve® yarns (wide Mechanical recycling
(USA) bottles, post-industrial product range): staple and 80/20 post-industrial/post-consumer
textile waste filament fibres waste.36
Flake and resin products
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 Textile Recycling Technologies, Colouring and Finishing Methods | Le

Một số nhà Sx cung cấp PET tái chế

Table 5: Polyester - Chemical Recycling Stakeholders
hóa học:
Company Feedstock/Input, Product/Output Description or Processes
Requirements
Far Eastern Post-consumer PET TopGreen® Chemical recycling, back-to-oligomer.
New Century bottles recycled fibre Depolymerization by glycolysis of PET to
Corporation BHET oligomer, which is filtered and
(FENC) 46,47 repolymerized into PET (96% material
efficiency). The polymer is spun into
filament fibre. Process solid waste disposed
(Taiwan) in incineration facility with electricity
recovery (43% recovery rate).47
Post-consumer PET TopAgro™ (bio- Sintering technology converts the plant
bottles, Agro-waste based) fibre waste to ash form (nano-inorganic
(haulm and husk) materials). Ash is combined with recycled
PET flakes and chemically recycled.
Ioniqa 48 Post-consumer PET PET raw material Chemical recycling process that allows for
(The bottles, textiles, carpets impurity and colour removal from plastic
Netherlands) feedstock, as well as chemical recovery.

Jeplan 49 Post-consumer PET BHET flake, PET Subsidiary company: PET Refine
(Japan) bottles, textile waste resin, yarn, fabric Technology
Non-PET clothing or materials separated
and sent for recycling by other
technologies. Depolymerization to recover
BHET (likely glycolysis), decolourization,
and polymerization to PET.
Loop™ Post-consumer PET Loop™-Branded Patented zero energy depolymerization
waste (any) PET plastic technology. Waste is converted to 10
Industries 50
 and sent for recycling by other
technologies. Depolymerization to recover
Một số nhà Sx cung cấp PET tái chế hóa học: BHET (likely glycolysis), decolourization,
and polymerization to PET.
Loop™ Post-consumer PET Loop™-Branded Patented zero energy depolymerization
Industries 50 waste (any) PET plastic technology. Waste is converted to
(Canada) constituent monomers: PTA and MEG
without heat or pressure. Purification step:
dyes, additives, and impurities are removed.
Repolymerization of monomers to Loop™
plastic.
Moral Fiber 51 PET bottles, post- PET raw Chemical/Biological Process: Engineered
(formerly consumer textiles material/feedstock microbes to metabolize plastic waste
Ambercycle) (PTA), PET fibre material to generate PTA as feedstock for
(USA) polyester production.
Polygenta 52 Post-consumer PET Filament yarn ReNew™ patented technology. Chemical
(India) bottles (50-300 denier), process (glycolysis) converts waste to
chips liquid esters (recycled esters equivalent to
virgin), glycol is also recovered. Proprietary
decolourization process is performed to
remove impurities.
Teijin 53 Post-consumer apparel ECO CIRCLE™ ECO CIRCLE™ recovery system
(Japan) material accepted from fibres, textiles comprises a chemical process to recover
their Eco Circle (apparel, interiors, DMT, and decolourization process (heat
program. Minimum: household goods, and solvent) to remove dyes and impurities.
80/20 PET/cotton, 90/10 industrial materials)
PET/nylon, and 80/20
PET/rayon blends36
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 CN tái chế Nylon
• Nylon-6 và Nylon-6,6 chiếm khoảng 85% vật liệu nylon được sử
dụng.
• Các ứng dụng thương mại chính của nylon: sợi, bao bì/màng, thảm
và các bộ phận cấu thành phổ biến nhất trong ngành công nghiệp
ô tô.
• Nylon được đặc trưng bởi độ đàn hồi, khả năng chống nhàu và khả
năng thu hồi độ ẩm cao hơn polyester.
• Cần năng lượng nhiều hơn để sản xuất và gần gấp ba lần so với
bông thông thường.
• Nhuộm nylon không phù hợp với thuốc nhuộm tự nhiên hoặc tác
động thấp
• Ô nhiễm có nguồn gốc từ nylon trong môi trường nước đã được
phát hiện có nguồn gốc từ lưới đánh cá bằng nylon (với tổng số
chất thải lưới đánh cá chiếm 10%). 12
 CN tái chế Nylon
• Viết ptpư tổng hợp nylon 6 và nylon 6,6
• So sánh về độ bền, nhiệt độ nóng chảy của 2 polymer.

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 56
textile fibres
textile from
fibres fromlaundering.
laundering. 56

Nylon-6 is produced from the ring-opening

CN tái chế Nylon
Nylon-6 is produced from the ring-opening polymerization of a single monomer, Ɛ-caprolactam
polymerization ofatoms
a single
–forming polycaprolactam (Figure 9). “6” is denotes the 6 carbon thatmonomer,
comprise Ɛ-caprolactam
–forming polycaprolactam (Figure 9). “6” is denotes the 6 carbon atoms that comprise
caprolactam.
• Viết ptpư tổng hợp nylon 6 và nylon 6,6
caprolactam.

Figure 9: Polymerization of Nylon 6 (general process). [57,58]

Nylon-6,6 is produced by combining two monomers – adipic acid (AA) and hexamethylene
diamene (HMD) acid (or HMDA), with water, also known as a polycondensation reaction
(Figure 10). “6,6” denotes the 6 carbon atoms in each of the two monomers (AA and HMD)
which comprise theFigure 9: Polymerization of Nylon 6 (general process). [57,58]
polymer.

Nylon-6,6 is produced by combining two monomers – adipic acid (AA) and hexamethylene
diamene (HMD) acid (or HMDA), with water, also known as a polycondensation reaction
(Figure 10). “6,6” denotes the 6 carbon atoms in each of the two monomers (AA and HMD)
which comprise the polymer.

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Figure 10: Polymerization of Nylon-6,6 (general process). [58,59]
 56
textile fibres
textile from
fibres fromlaundering.
laundering. 56

Nylon-6 is produced from the ring-opening

CN tái chế Nylon
Nylon-6 is produced from the ring-opening polymerization of a single monomer, Ɛ-caprolactam
polymerization ofatoms
a single
–forming polycaprolactam (Figure 9). “6” is denotes the 6 carbon thatmonomer,
comprise Ɛ-caprolactam
–forming polycaprolactam (Figure 9). “6” is denotes the 6 carbon atoms that comprise
caprolactam.
• Viết ptpư tổng hợp nylon 6 và nylon 6,6
caprolactam.

Figure 9: Polymerization of Nylon 6 (general process). [57,58]

Nylon-6,6 is produced by combining two monomers – adipic acid (AA) and hexamethylene
diamene (HMD) acid (or HMDA), with water, also known as a polycondensation reaction
(Figure 10). “6,6” denotes the 6 carbon atoms in each of the two monomers (AA and HMD)
which comprise theFigure 9: Polymerization of Nylon 6 (general process). [57,58]
polymer.

Nylon-6,6 is produced by combining two monomers – adipic acid (AA) and hexamethylene
diamene (HMD) acid (or HMDA), with water, also known as a polycondensation reaction
(Figure 10). “6,6” denotes the 6 carbon atoms in each of the two monomers (AA and HMD)
which comprise the polymer.

15
Figure 10: Polymerization of Nylon-6,6 (general process). [58,59]
 CN tái chế Nylon
• Quá trình tái chế nylon-6 đã được sử dụng rộng rãi trong ngành
công nghiệp thảm, thông qua việc kết hợp các quy trình cơ học và
hóa học.
• Quá trình khử trùng hợp của Nylon-6,6 phức tạp hơn, vì nó bao
gồm hai monome khác nhau và thường đòi hỏi một lượng tác chất
lớn hơn, có thể gây hại nhiều hơn và tạo ra nhiều chất thải hơn.
=> Nylon-6,6 thường được tái chế cơ học từ các xơ sợi đã qua sử dụng

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 CN tái chế Nylon
-Cleaning process to remove impurities
-Shredding and grinding
Do nhiệt độ nóng chảy thấp hơn (so với PET), nylon rất dễ
• Qt tái chế cơ học:
-Melting into chips/pellets from which they can be used in new applications
bị nhiễm vi khuẩn, vi khuẩn và các tạp chất không thể tái
-For fibre production: the recycled chips are melted and respun into filaments
chế còn sót lại trong vật liệu, do đó cần phải làm sạch kỹ
trước khi tái chế.

Figure 11: General route for mechanical recycling of nylon.35,65-6766,67

Due to its lower melting temperature (compared to PET), nylon is highly susceptible to 17
contamination by microbes, bacteria, and nonrecyclable impurities remaining in the material, and
 CN tái chế Nylon

• Qt tái chế hóa học:

Dựa trên công nghệ tái chế PET, hãy lựa chọn công nghệ tái
chế nylon 6 .

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 Figure 12: Overview of different approaches for chemical recycling of nylon. Produced from [68].
CN tái chế Nylon
Current chemical recycling operations for both Nylon-6 and Nylon-6,6 (to a lesser extent) include
the ammonolysis method, created by DuPont (Figure 13), and patented processes for Nylon-6
chemical recovery by TORAY - CYCLEAD™, Aquafil, and Hyosung.6,18

Figure 13: Overview of DuPont ammonolysis chemical recycling process for nylon. Reproduced from [69].

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