Detail For Wood Frame House Construction Illustrated Handbook Framer
Detail For Wood Frame House Construction Illustrated Handbook Framer
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
TABLE OF ILLUSTRATION
INTRODUCTION
GENERAL SCOPE
Terminology
Dimensioning
GRADE MARKING
LUMBER SEASONING
Protection of Materials
TYPES OF FRAME CONSTRUCTION
Platform Frame
Balloon Frame
Fastenings
Plank and Beam Construction
Truss-framed Construction
FOUNDATIONS
Concrete Foundations
Wood Foundations
Other Foundations
PROTECTION AGAINST TERMITES AND DECAY
Unexcavated Spaces
Columns and Posts
Exterior walls
Beams and Girders in Masonry Walls
Wood Supports Embedded in Ground
Siding
Crawl Space Ventilation
Termite Control
Additional Requirements
FLOOR FRAMING
Sills on Foundation Walls
Sills on Piers
Beams and Girders
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Selection and Placing of Joists
Bridging
Framing of Floor Openings
Notching and Boring of Joists
Support of Partitions
Overhang of Floors
FIRE-STOPPING
DRAFT-STOPPING
EXTERIOR WALL FRAMING
Stud Size and Spacing
Exterior Wall Openings
Gable End Walls
Wall Sheathing
Building or Sheathing Paper
INTERIOR PARTITION FRAMING
Bearing Partitions
Non-Bearing Partitions
FRAMING AROUND CHIMNEYS AND FIREPLACES
Framing
Trim
ROOF AND CEILING FRAMING
Ceiling Joist and Rafter Framing
Collar Beams (collar ties)
Valley and Hip Rafter Framing
Roof Trusses
Ceiling-Floor-Partition Separation
Flat Roofs
Roof Sheathing
Spaced Sheathing
Ventilation of Attic Spaces
INSULATION AND VAPOR RETARDERS
Insulation
Vapor Retarders
EXTERIOR SIDING AND COVERINGS
Wood Siding
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Protection of Siding
Wood Shingles and Shakes
Masonry Veneer
FLOORING
Sub-flooring
Underlayment
Wood Flooring
WOOD DECKS
Design
Engineering
Decking
Railings
Finishes
CONCLUSION
TABLE I. Nominal and Minimum-Dressed Sizes of Boards, Dimension and Timbers.
TABLE II. Wood Shingle and Shake Weather Exposures
Appendix
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TABLE OF ILLUSTRATION
Figure 1. Platform Frame Construction
Figure 2. Balloon Frame Construction
Figure 3. Methods of Loading Nails
Figure 4. Sizes of Common Wire Nails
Figure 5. Masonry Foundation Wall and Footing
Figure 6. Permanent Wood Foundation - Crawl space
Figure 7. Permanent Wood Foundation - Basement
Figure 8. Sump for Poorly Drained Soils
Figure 9. Sump for Medium to Well Drained Soils
Figure 10. Pier Foundation and Anchorage
Figure 11. Clearance between Earth and Floor Framing
Figure 12. Support for Basement Post
Figure 13. Floor Framing at Exterior Wall
Figure 14. Girder Framing in Exterior Wall
Figure 15. Termite Shields
Figure 16. Anchorage of Sill to Foundation Wall
Figure 17. Nailing Built-up Beams and Girders
Figure 18. Joist End Bearing
Figure 19. Joist Supported on Ledger
Figure 20. Joist Supported by Metal Framing Anchors
Figure 21. Joists Resting on Girder
Figure 22. Joists Resting on Steel Beam
Figure 23. Diagonal Bridging of Floor Joists
Figure 24. Solid Bridging of Floor Joists
Figure 25. Framing of Tail Joists on Ledger Strip
Figure 26. Framing of Tail Joists by Framing Anchors
Figure 27. Framing of Header to Trimmer by Joist Hangers
Figure 28. Notching and Boring of Joists
Figure 29. Framing Over Bearing Partition, Platform Construction
Figure 30. Framing Over Bearing Partition, Balloon Construction
Figure 31. Framing under Non-Bearing Partition
Figure 32. Attachment of Non-Bearing Partition to Ceiling Framing
Figure 33. Interior Stairway Framing
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Figure 34. Stairway with a Landing
Figure 35. Framing Supporting Bathtub
Figure 36. Second Floor Framing, Exterior Wall
Figure 37. Second Floor Overhang of Exterior Wall, Joists at Right Angles to Supporting Walls
Figure 38. Second Floor Overhang of Exterior Wall, Joists Parallel to Supporting Walls
Figure 39. Fire-stopping around Pipes
Figure 40. Fire-stopping of Dropped Ceilings
Figure 41. Fire-stopping of Masonry Walls - Floor
Figure 42. Fire-stopping of Masonry Walls - Ceiling
Figure 43. Draft-stopping of Trussed Floors
Figure 44. Multiple Studs at Corners
Figure 45. Wall Framing at Intersecting Partitions
Figure 46. Exterior Wall Openings, Header Details with Cripple Studs
Figure 47. Exterior Wall Openings, Header Details with Joist Hangers
Figure 48. Framing of Bay Window
Figure 49. Wall Framing at Gable Ends
Figure 50. Wall and Floor Framing at Fireplace
Figure 51. Hearth Centering Detail
Figure 52. Clearance of Fireplace Trim
Figure 53. Section through Mantle
Figure 54. Building Paper and Siding Application
Figure 55. Application of Wood Shingles
Figure 56. Roof Framing Ceiling Joists Parallel to Rafters
Figure 57. Roof Framing, Ceiling Joists Perpendicular to Rafters
Figure 58. Roof Framing Gable Overhang
Figure 59. Flat Roof Framing
Figure 60. Valley Rafter Roof Framing
Figure 61. Hip Rafter Roof Framing
Figure 62. Roof Framing at Eave
Figure 63. Shed Dormer Roof Framing
Figure 64. Gable Dormer Framing
Figure 65. Roof Framing Around Chimney
Figure 66. Roof Ventilation Requirements
Figure 67. Ventilating Eave Overhangs
Figure 68. Wood Siding Patterns and Nailing
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Figure 69. Corner Treatments for Wood Siding
Figure 70. Application of Masonry Veneer to Wood Framing
Figure 71. Wood Strip Flooring
Figure 72. Wood Deck
Figure 73. Ceiling-Floor Partition Separation
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INTRODUCTION
Wood frame construction is the predominant method of building homes and apartments in
the United States, enabling this nation to have the world’s best housed population.
Increasingly, wood framing is also being used in commercial and industrial buildings.
Wood frame buildings are economical to build, heat and cool, and provide maximum comfort to
occupants. Wood construction is readily adaptable to traditional, contemporary and the most
futuristic building styles. Its architectural possibilities are limitless.
History has demonstrated the inherent strength and durability of wood frame buildings. The
purpose of this document is to summarize and illustrate conventional construction rules as a
guide for builders, carpentry foremen, building inspectors and students in the building trades.
The application of conventional construction rules may be limited by building code requirements
in use where the building is being constructed. Conventional construction provisions, as found in
this publication, represent techniques with a history of satisfactory performance.
Today, some building codes may require a more rigorous structural design methodology
than is associated with conventional construction. This requirement may result from a need for
better building performance when the structure is exposed to moderate-to-high wind, seismic,
and snow loads. AF&PA publishes the Wood Frame Construction Manual for One- and Two-
Family Dwellings (Appendix, Item 1 ) to provide solutions based on engineering analysis, in
accordance with recognized national codes and standards. Like conventional construction, the
engineered solutions are provided in a prescriptive format.
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GENERAL SCOPE
With any building material or product, sound construction and installation practices must be
followed to assure durability and trouble-free performance. Areas for economy in basic design
and house construction are covered in numerous publications. However, skimping on materials
or using poor building practices in constructing the house frame saves little. Such practices may
reduce the strength and rigidity of the structure and cause difficulty in attachment of cladding
materials and trim. Therefore, the details in this document are not intended to be bare minimums;
rather, they reflect requirements for producing sound, low maintenance wood frame buildings.
The first approach to achieving a strong, durable structure, involving economical use of
materials, is to follow a basic modular plan for layout and attachment of framing members. Such
methods use a 4-foot design module, which governs a 16-inch spacing of joists, studs, rafters and
panel sheathing products. This module also provides for alternate 24-inch spacing of floor, wall
and roof framing where floor and roof trusses are used, and accommodates 24-inch spacing of
studs where wind loads permit, or where larger studs are required for thicker insulation or
heavier floor and roof loads.
Terminology
Previous versions of this document have followed the practice of using “shall” and “should”
to emphasize those mandatory instructions covering fire and life safety as separate from general
good practices cover durability, reduced maintenance costs and best performance of products.
Recognizing that the term “should,” in practice, can be considered as optional and that failure to
follow such provisions can result in serious damage or excessive maintenance costs to the home
owner, this publication states the procedure as it is to be illustrated in the house plan, followed
by the job foreman and subcontractors, and enforced by the building inspector.
Wherever possible, the provisions described are intended to conform to current code
provisions; however, it is recommended that the local building code be checked for additional
requirements. Other methods of building may provide equal, or possibly, improved performance.
These, however, must provide performance assurance acceptable to the owner and the building
inspector.
Dimensioning
In general, dimensions for framing lumber, wood siding and trim referenced in this
document are nominal dimensions; i.e., 2x4, 2x6, etc., for simplicity. Actual surfaced dimensions
conform in Product Standard PS 20, published by the American Lumber Standards Committee
(Appendix, Item 2 ). A summary of these dimensions is set forth in TABLE I .
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GRADE MARKING
Framing lumber, also referred to as “dimension” lumber must be properly grade marked to
be acceptable under the major building codes. Such grade marks identify the grade, species or
species group seasoning condition at time of manufacture, producing mill number and the
grading rules writing agency.
The bending strength, Fb , and the stiffness or modulus of elasticity, E, may be determined
from the grade mark for lumber used as joists, rafters, and decking. These values enable
determination of allowable spans for the lumber.
Grading rules for various softwood and certain hardwood species are written by regional
rules writing agencies, which operate within the system, established by the American Lumber
Standards Committee (ALSC) under the authority of the U.S. Department of Commerce. This
system provides for on-going inspection of lumber produced to the applicable rules and for
monitoring of the inspection agencies by the Board of Review of the ALSC.
Engineering values and tables of allowable spans for framing lumber are available from the
American Forest & Paper Association (Appendix, Items 3 and 4 ), and the regional rules writing
agencies.
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LUMBER SEASONING
Wood loses moisture from the time it is cut and manufactured into lumber until it reaches
equilibrium in service. Best performance of wood frame buildings is obtained when the moisture
content of framing lumber at the time the building is enclosed with sheathing and interior finish,
is as close as possible to the condition it will reach in service.
Grading rules which conform with American Softwood Lumber Standard, PS 20, provide
for framing lumber surfaced to standard sizes at the unseasoned condition (S-Grn), at 19 percent
maximum moisture content (S-Dry) and at 15 percent maximum moisture content (KD) or (MC-
15). Standard sizes apply to S-Dry (19% max), with slightly larger sizes provided for S-Grn so
that both products reach approximately the same size after seasoning in service. MC-15 lumber
is produced to the same standard size as S-Dry. In some cases engineering stress values assigned
to lumber produced to different seasoning conditions are adjusted to reflect the effects of
seasoning.
Lumber should be protected from weather at the job site. Buildings should be roofed and
enclosed with sheathing without delay to maintain the original dryness of the lumber or to help
unseasoned lumber reach equilibrium during construction.
Final moisture content of lumber in the building varies with the geographic region and with
location in the structure. Floor joists over a crawl space may reach seasonal moisture contents in
excess of 14 percent. Roof trusses and rafters, on the other hand, may dry below 6 percent.
Squeaking floors and loose nails in wallboard or siding can be reduced by allowing framing to
season to a moisture content which is as close as possible to moisture levels it will reach in
service and by utilizing modern framing techniques and products, including glued-nailed floor
systems, grooved or ring-shanked nails, and drywall screws.
Protection of Materials
Lumber, panel products and millwork (windows, doors and trim) should be protected from
the weather when delivered at the building site. Preparation of a construction schedule will
assure that lumber and millwork are delivered as needed. Follow these simple rules:
1. Support framing lumber, plywood and panel products at least six inches above
ground and protect them below and above with a waterproof cover such as plastic
film. Finish lumber and flooring, particularly, are to be protected from ground or
concrete slab moisture and kept under cover – preferably indoors – until
installation.
2. Store door and window assemblies, siding and exterior trim inside. Where this is
not practical, these materials are to be elevated from the ground and protected
above and below with a weatherproof cover.
3. Millwork items are often pretreated with a water-repellent preservative as
received. Whether treated or not, such materials are to be stored under cover.
Untreated exterior millwork should receive a water-repellent preservative
treatment before installation.
4. Store interior doors, trim, flooring and cabinetwork in the building. Where wet
plaster is used it must be permitted to dry before interior woodwork, cabinetry and
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flooring are installed.
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TYPES OF FRAME CONSTRUCTION
Platform Frame
In platform-frame construction, first floor joists are completely covered with sub-flooring to
form a platform upon which exterior walls and interior partitions are erected. This is the type of
construction most generally used in home building, Figure 1 .
Platform construction is easy to erect. It provides a work surface at each floor level and is
readily adapted to various methods of prefabrication. In platform systems it is common practice
to assemble wall framing on the floor and tilt the entire unit into place.
Balloon Frame
In balloon-frame construction, exterior wall studs continue through the first and second
stories. First floor joists and exterior wall studs both bear on the anchored sill, Figure 2 . Second-
floor joists bear on a minimum 1x4-inch ribbon strip, which has been let-in to the inside edges of
exterior wall studs.
In two-story buildings with brick or stone veneer exteriors, balloon framing reduces
variations in settlement of framing and the masonry veneer. Where exterior walls are of solid
masonry, balloon framing of interior bearing partitions also reduces distortions in door and closet
openings in cross-walls. The requirement for longer studs, and the difficulty in accommodating
current erection practices and fire-stopping, has reduced the popularity of this system.
Fastenings
Nails, used alone or in combination with metal framing anchors and construction adhesives,
are the most common method of fastening 1- and 2- inch framing lumber and sheathing panels,
Figure 4 . Ring or spiral shank nails provide higher load-carrying capacities than common nails
of the same diameter, and are particularly useful where greater withdrawal resistance is required.
Nailed joints provide best performance where the load acts at right angles to the nails.
Nailed joints with the load applied parallel to the nail (in withdrawal) should be avoided
wherever possible, since joints are weakest when nailed in this manner, Figure 3 .
Where tilt-up wall framing is not practical, or where stronger stud-to-plate attachment is
required (as in the use of rigid foam sheathing), toe-nailing is the most practical method of
framing studs and plates.
In toe-nailing, nails are driven at a 30-degree angle (approximately) to the stud. Studs can
be pre-drilled to simplify this operation and prevent excessive splitting.
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Buildings Wood Construction Data No. 4 , published by the American Forest & Paper
Association (Appendix, Item 5 ).
Truss-framed Construction
The strength and resilience of wood construction is due to its framework of structural
lumber combined with a covering of sub-flooring, wall and roof sheathing. Additional
engineering of the system through use of floor and roof trusses and metal framing anchors
provides even greater rigidity and permits wider spacing of floor and roof supporting members.
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FOUNDATIONS
A firm foundation, consisting of properly installed footings of adequate size to support the
structure, is essential to the satisfactory performance of all buildings. Such foundations fully
utilize the strength and resilience of wood frame construction.
Footings should extend below exterior grade sufficiently to be free of frost action during
winter months. Where roots of trees are removed during excavation or when building on filled
ground, the ground should be well compacted before footings are installed or concrete is poured.
Where poor soil conditions exist, satisfactory foundations may be constructed of treated
timber piles capped with wood or concrete sills. Footing requirements are covered in the local
building code. It is good practice, generally, to make the footing thickness equal to the thickness
of the foundation wall and the footing projection equal to one-half the foundation wall thickness.
Two principal foundation types are commonly used. These are concrete and pressure
preservative treated wood. Concrete footings with poured concrete or masonry block foundation
walls are most common. An increasingly popular foundation for houses and other wood frame
buildings is the “Permanent Wood Foundation” which is accepted by all model building codes
and the Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD).
Concrete Foundations
Concrete footings are frequently unreinforced. Where unstable soil conditions exist,
however, reinforced concrete is used. This requires engineering analysis of the footing. The
foundation wall may be of poured concrete or masonry blocks. Masonry block basement walls
typically have a ½-inch coat of Portland cement mortar applied to the exterior. When set, the
mortar parting is covered with two coats of asphalt to resist penetration of the wall by ground
water, Figure 5 . Masonry block walls are capped at the top with 4 inches of solid masonry or
concrete. Drain tiles are installed around the entire footing perimeter of concrete foundations.
These lead to a storm drain or sump with pump to a positive drain.
Wood Foundations
Permanent wood foundations are engineered systems consisting of wood framing and
plywood sheathing that have been pressure treated with heavy concentrations of preservative to
assure freedom from decay and insect attack. The system is used with both basement and crawl
space foundations, Figures 6 and Figures 7 .
Permanent wood foundations are particularly suitable for cold weather construction where
the entire foundation system can be prefabricated. The footing and basement area consists of a
layer of gravel or crushed stone of 4-inch minimum thickness. Treated wood footing plates of
adequate thickness and width are placed on the stone base at the wall perimeter. These support
foundation stud walls of treated lumber framing and plywood sheathing which have been
designed to support vertical and lateral loads. Exterior plywood joints are caulked and basement
foundation walls are covered with 6-mil polyethylene film to direct ground water to the gravel
base. Basement floors are concrete slab or wood flooring laid on treated wood joists on sleepers.
A 6-mil polyethylene film is placed over the gravel base beneath the slab or wood floor.
Drain tiles are not required with permanent wood foundations. Ground water at the wall
perimeter drains through the gravel footing and the gravel slab base to a sump which leads to a
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daylight outlet or is pumped to a storm drain, Figure 8 and Figure 9 . Such basements have a
superior record for maintaining dry interior conditions. Additional information on Permanent
Wood Foundations is available from AF&PA and the Southern Pine Council (Appendix, Items 6
and 7 ).
Other Foundations
Other foundation types include free standing piers, piers with curtain walls, or piers
supporting grade beams. Piers and their footings must be of adequate size to carry the weight of
the house, contents and occupants. Pier spacing will depend upon arrangement of floor framing
and location of bearing walls and partitions. Spacing in the range of 8 to 12 feet is common
practice, Figure 10 .
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PROTECTION AGAINST TERMITES AND
DECAY
Good construction practice prevents conditions that could lead to decay or termite attack.
Details for termite and decay prevention are found in Design of Wood Structures for Permanence
Wood Construction Data No. 6 (Appendix, Item 8 ). The following practices are basic:
All roots and scraps of lumber are removed from the immediate vicinity of the house before
backfilling.
Loose backfill is carefully tamped to reduce settlement around the foundation perimeter.
Grading at the foundation and over the building site is sloped to provide drainage away from the
structure.
Unexcavated Spaces
Exposed ground in crawl spaces and under porches or decks is covered with 6-mil
polyethylene film. Minimum clearance between the ground and the bottom edge of beams or
girders is at least twelve inches. Clearance between the bottom of wood joists or a structural
plank floor and the ground is a minimum of 18 inches, Figure 11 .Where it is not possible to
maintain these clearances, approved pressure treated or naturally durable wood species are used.
Exterior walls
Wood framing and sheathing used in exterior walls are installed at least 8 inches above
exposed earth (including finished grade), unless approved pressure treated or naturally durable
wood species are used, Figures 13 and 14 .
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to the weather, shall be treated with approved pressure preservative treatments.
Siding
A minimum clearance of 6 inches is maintained between the finished grade and the bottom
edge of all types of siding used with wood frame buildings. Such clearance permits ready
inspection for termite activity and improved performance of exterior paint and stain finishes.
Termite Control
After removal of all scrap wood from the building perimeter, treatment of the soil around
the foundation with an approved termiticide is the most effective protection against subterranean
termites. Properly installed termite shields also provide protection where the interiors of
foundation walls are not easily inspected, Figure 15 .
Additional Requirements
In geographical areas where experience has demonstrated a need for more protective
measures, the requirements of the preceding paragraphs may be modified to the extent required
by local conditions.
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FLOOR FRAMING
Floor framing consists of a system of sills, girders, joists or floor trusses and sub-flooring
that provides support for floor loads and gives lateral support to exterior walls.
Sills on Piers
Sills supported by free-standing piers must be of adequate size to carry all imposed loads
between piers. They may be of solid wood or of built-up construction such as described for
beams and girders. Sills are anchored to piers with ½-inch bolts embedded at least 6 inches in
poured concrete and at least 15 inches in masonry block, Figure 10 .
Bridging
Adequately nailed sub-flooring will maintain the upper edges of floor joists in proper
alignment. Nailing the ends of joists to band joists or headers, Figures 13 and 26 , provides
additional joist support that, under normal conditions, eliminates the need for intermediate
bridging. Where the nominal depth-to-thickness ratio of joists exceeds 6, or where builders have
encountered problems with twisting of joists in service, intermediate joist bridging is installed at
8-foot intervals. Bridging may also be accomplished with cross braces of nominal 1x4-inch
lumber or solid 2-inch lumber, Figures 23 and 24 .
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Framing of Floor Openings
Headers, trimmers and tail joists form the framing for floor openings. Trimmers and headers
are doubled when the header span exceeds 4 feet. Headers more than 6 feet in length are
supported at the ends by joist hangers or framing anchors unless they are bearing on a partition,
beam or wall. Tail joists which exceed 12 feet in length are supported on framing anchors or on
ledger strips not less than nominal 2x2 inches, Figures 25 , 26 and 27 .
Support of Partitions
Bearing partitions are normally placed over girders or walls which support the floor system.
Where floor framing is adequate to support the added load, bearing partitions may be offset from
supporting members by no more than the joist depth, unless floor joists are designed to carry the
increased load, Figures 29 and 30 .
Where non-bearing partitions run parallel to floor joists, the joist under the partition is
doubled to support increased loads which frequently occur adjacent to the partition, Figures 31
and 32 .
Overhang of Floors
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FIRE-STOPPING
All concealed spaces in wood framing are fire-stopped with wood blocking or other
approved materials. Blocking must be accurately fitted to fill the opening and to prevent drafts
between spaces, Figures 2 , 18 , 29 , 30 , 33 , and 34 .
Openings around vents, pipes, ducts, chimneys, fireplaces and similar fixtures which would
allow passage of fire are filled with non-combustible material, Figure 39 .
Other fire-stopping requires 2-inch lumber or two thicknesses of 1-inch lumber with
staggered joints, or one thickness of ¾-inch plywood with joints backed by 1-inch lumber or ¾-
inch plywood.
Sills and plates normally provide adequate fire-stopping in walls and partitions. However,
stopping is required at all intersections between vertical and horizontal spaces such as occur at
soffits, dropped ceilings and coved ceilings, Figure 40 .
Furred spaces on masonry walls are fire-stopped at each floor level and at the ceiling level
by wood blocking or by noncombustible material of sufficient thickness to fill the space, Figure
41 and 42 .
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DRAFT-STOPPING
In single family residences, draft-stopping is required parallel to main framing members in
floor/ceiling assemblies separating usable spaces into two or more approximately equal areas
with no area greater than 500 square feet. Materials for draft-stopping may be 3/8-inch plywood
or ½-inch gypsum board, Figure 43 .
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EXTERIOR WALL FRAMING
Exterior wall framing must be of adequate size and strength to support floor and roof loads.
Walls must also resist lateral wind loads and, in some locations, earthquake forces. Top plates
are doubled and lapped at corners and at bearing partition intersections to tie the building into a
strong structural unit. A single top plate may be used where roof rafters or trusses bear directly
above wall studs. In such cases adequate corner ties are required, particularly where non-
structural sheathing is used.
Wall Sheathing
The high resistance of wood frame construction to hurricane, earthquake and other forces of
nature is provided when wood sheathing is adequately nailed to the outside edges of exterior wall
studs, plates and headers. Wall sheathing includes plywood, particleboard and other structural
panels such as wafer-board, oriented-strand board, structural insulation board and one-inch board
lumber. Such sheathing is applied in strict accordance with manufacturer’s nailing requirements
to provide a rigid, yet resilient, wood frame system. Some structural panels function as both
sheathing and siding.
Where the building exterior is to be stuccoed, where plastic foam sheathing is used, or
where bevel or other lap siding is applied directly to the studs, exterior walls must be braced at
the corners with 1x4 lumber which has been “let-in” to the outside surfaces of studs, plates and
headers at an angle of 45 degrees, Figures 1 and 2 . Metal strap braces adequately nailed may be
used. Plywood or other structural panels applied vertically at each corner also serve as adequate
corner bracing where non-structural sheathing is otherwise used.
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Building or Sheathing Paper
Walls are protected from wind and water infiltration by covering the wall sheathing with a
layer of Type 15 asphalt saturated felt paper or with other suitable water repellent paper or
plastic films. Such coverings must permit passage of any moisture vapor which enters the wall
system from the interior and have a vapor permeability rating of five or greater. Six-inch wide
strips of sheathing paper are applied around all wall openings and behind all exterior trim,
Figures 54 and 55 . Sheathing paper is applied from the bottom of the wall, lapping horizontal
joints 4 inches and vertical joints 6 inches.
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INTERIOR PARTITION FRAMING
There are two types of interior partitions: bearing partitions which support floors, ceilings or
roofs; and non-bearing partitions which carry only the weight of the materials in the partition,
including attachments in the finished building.
Bearing Partitions
Studs in bearing partitions should be at least nominal 2x4 inches, with the wide surface of
the stud at right angles to top and bottom plates or headers. Plates are lapped or tied into exterior
walls at intersection points.
Single top plates are permitted where joists or rafters are supported directly over bearing
wall studs. Studs supporting floors are spaced a maximum of 16 inches on center. Studs
supporting ceilings may be spaced 24 inches on center. Headers in bearing walls are used to
carry loads over openings, as required for exterior walls.
Non-Bearing Partitions
Studs in non-bearing partitions are nominal 2x3 or 2x4 inches and may be installed with the
wide face perpendicular or parallel to the wall surface. Single top plates are used. Stud spacing is
16-or 24-inches on center as required by the wall covering.
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FRAMING AROUND CHIMNEYS AND
FIREPLACES
Framing
Wood framing must be adequately separated from fireplace and chimney masonry, Figures
50 and 51 . All headers, beams, joists and studs must be kept at least two inches from the outside
face of chimney and fireplace masonry. Prefabricated metal fireplace and chimney assemblies
are to be installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations and must be
approved by the code authority.
Trim
Wood mantles and similar trim are separated from fireplace openings by at least six inches,
Figures 52 and 53 . Where combustible material is within 12 inches of the fireplace opening, the
projection shall not exceed ½ inch for each 1-inch distance from such opening.
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ROOF AND CEILING FRAMING
Roof construction must be of adequate strength to withstand anticipated snow and wind
loads. Framing members must be securely fastened to each other, to sheathing and to exterior
walls to enable the roof system to serve as a structural unit, Figures 56 through 64 .
Roof Trusses
Roof framing may be fabricated as light trusses and installed as complete units. Such
framing is designed according to accepted engineering practice. The truss members are joined
together by fasteners such as nails, nails and glue, bolts, metal plates or other framing devices.
Use of roof trusses eliminates the need for interior bearing partitions and frequently results
in more rapid installation of roof and ceiling framing. Roof trusses are generally spaced 24
inches on center.
Where roof trusses are used, gable ends are usually framed in the conventional manner
using a common rafter to which gable end studs are nailed. Eave overhangs are framed by
extending the top chords of the trusses beyond the wall.
Where hip and valley construction is required, modified trusses or conventional framing are
used to meet the condition.
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Ceiling-Floor-Partition Separation
In some localities truss uplift may be a problem. This problem is characterized by the
separation of the floor or ceiling from an interior partition.
A widely used technique to minimize truss uplift separation is to allow the gypsum board
ceiling to “float” or rest on the partition and remain unattached to the truss on either side of the
partition. In cases where trusses are perpendicular to partitions, the gypsum board ceiling
remains unattached at least 18 inches from the ceiling/ wall intersection, Figure 73 . Additional
solutions to this separation are found in two reports referenced in Appendix, Items 12 and 13 .
Flat Roofs
Flat roofs should be avoided if possible because they are difficult to ventilate and insulate
adequately and present weather proofing problems. Where flat roofs are used, rafters or roof
joists serve as ceiling joists for the space below, Figure 59 . Maximum allowable spans for
ceiling joists and rafters are contained in Span Tables for Joists and Rafters , (Appendix, Item 4
). Flat roof joists are securely nailed to exterior wall plates and to each other where they join over
interior partitions.
Roof Sheathing
Wood structural panels or 1-inch board lumber provides a solid base for roof coverings.
Structural panels are manufactured in various thicknesses and are usually 4’x8' in surface
dimension. Recommended spans, spacing between panel edges and thickness are stamped on the
panel face. Structural panels are installed with the long dimension perpendicular to rafters and
with the panel continuous over two or more spans.
Spaced Sheathing
Where wood shingles or shakes are to be applied as the finished roof, solid sheathing is
used or nominal 1x4 lumber is nailed perpendicular to rafters and trusses with each board spaced
a distance from the next board equal to the weather exposure of the shingles or shakes. (5½-
inches is common exposure for shingles. Shakes may be exposed 7 to 13 inches depending on
their length.) Because shakes are not smooth surfaced, an 18-inch wide underlay of asphalt felt is
used between each course. Where wind driven snow is encountered, solid sheathing and Type 15
asphalt felt are used under wood shakes.
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flow. Such roofs are ventilated at eave soffits to provide net open area equal to 1/250 of the area
of the ceiling below. A vapor retarder of one perm or less permeability is applied under the
ceiling finish below flat roofs.
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INSULATION AND VAPOR RETARDERS
Insulation
Adequate insulation in stud spaces of exterior walls, between floor and ceiling joists or
rafters and on the inside of masonry foundations between grade line and first floor, make wood
frame construction efficient to heat and cool. It also increases occupant comfort and absorbs
outside noises. Roll or batt-type insulation is installed full thickness in exterior walls or between
rafters. Roll or loose fill insulation is used in attics between ceiling joists. Rigid foam plastic is
bonded to the inside of foundation walls with construction adhesive.
Vapor Retarders
Vapor retardant film prevents moisture vapor from moving through the insulated wall and
condensing on the back side of sheathing and siding. Such condensation greatly reduces the
effectiveness of insulation and causes failures of exterior paints and finishes.
Wall insulation batts usually have vapor retardant paper covers facing the room interior.
However, the most common method of installing wall insulation batts creates gaps along each
stud, which make this type of vapor protection of little value. Proper vapor protection requires a
4-mil (.004") minimum thickness of polyethylene film stapled to wall studs immediately beneath
the dry wall or other interior finish. The film is carefully fitted around window and door
openings and behind electric outlets.
Crawl spaces and basement concrete slabs are also sources of moisture vapor, which reduce
the effectiveness of insulation and create expansion problems with hardwood flooring. A 6-mil
(.006") polyethylene film placed over the ground in crawl spaces and over the gravel before the
basement slab is poured is the most effective method of controlling moisture vapor from the
ground.
Some plastic foam sheathings and foil-faced sheathing may act as vapor retarders on the
outside of exterior walls. Where such sheathing panels are used, it is essential that a vapor
retardant polyethylene film be placed on the inside wall surface, beneath the interior wall finish.
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EXTERIOR SIDING AND COVERINGS
Many types of wood, hardboard, shingle, structural panel, metal and masonry veneer sidings
are used over wood framing. Such materials are separated from the final, finished grade by a
minimum of 6 inches, Figure 54 .
Wood Siding
A variety of wood and hardboard siding patterns are available. Bevel, shiplap and drop
types are generally used horizontally. Board-and-batten, board-on-board and tongued and
grooved boards are applied vertically, Figure 68 . Surfaces are smooth, rough sawn or overlaid
with paper or plastic film. They may be natural or factory pre-primed or pre-finished.
Siding and exterior trim are applied over a layer of Type 15 asphalt felt or other water
repellent sheathing cover with corrosion-resistant nails. Hot dipped galvanized steel, stainless
steel or aluminum nails may be used. Nail length varies with the thickness of siding and
sheathing. For smooth shank siding nails, required length is determined by adding to the
combined siding and sheathing thickness an additional 1½ inches for penetration into solid
wood.
Where foam sheathing or insulation board sheathing are used, “solid wood” means 1½-inch
nail penetration into the stud. However, where plywood, wafer-board or oriented strand board
sheathing are used, the thickness of these panels becomes a part of the 1½-inch solid wood nail
penetration.
Ring-shank or spiral-shank siding nails have additional holding power. A reduction of 1/8 to
1/4 inch in required nail penetration into solid wood is permitted for these fasteners. Additional
requirements apply to use of rigid foam plastic sheathing, and are published by AF & PA
(Appendix, Item 9 ).
Bevel siding and square edged boards applied horizontally are nailed with a single nail at
each stud. The minimum lap is 1 inch, with the nail driven approximately 1½ inches above the
lap, Figure 68 (a).
Drop and shiplap type sidings, which lay flush against the sheathing paper, are nailed at
each stud with a single nail approximately 1½ inches above the drip edge. Where siding width is
8 inches or more or where sheathing is omitted, two nails are used, Figure 68 (b).
Corner treatment is governed by the house design. Corner boards, mitered corners, metal
corner covers or alternately lapped corners are used, Figure 69 .
Board siding, both square edge and tongue and grooved, is applied vertically, Figures 68 (c)
and 68 (d). Where wood, plywood or structural panel sheathing of ½-inch minimum thickness is
used, nails are spaced 16 inches vertically. For other types of sheathing, horizontal nominal 1x4-
inch furring strips are applied at 24-inch intervals as a nail base for vertical siding application.
Where stud spacing exceeds 16 inches, inter-stud blocking with 2-inch lumber between studs is
required.
Protection of Siding
Ends of wood siding at corners, butt joints and at joints with window and door trim are
protected by an application of clear water repellent preservative. Dipping at the time of siding
application or subsequent brush or spray treatment before caulking and painting are effective.
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Where wood siding is to be left to weather unfinished, a liberal coat of clear water repellent
preservative is applied to the entire exterior siding surface.
Masonry Veneer
Masonry veneer applied to wood frame construction is supported on the masonry
foundation wall. Where permanent wood foundations are used, masonry veneer is supported on
the preservative treated wood footing plate or on a preservative treated wood knee wall attached
to the wood foundation with corrosion resistant metal ties. Ties are spaced horizontally 24 inches
on center, with each tie supporting no more than two square feet of wall area. Ties are fastened
through sheathing directly to foundation studs, Figure 70 .
In masonry veneer applications to permanent wood foundations, a 1-inch space is left
between sheathing and masonry. Base flashing extends from the outside face of the masonry wall
over the foundation and up the sheathing a minimum distance of 12 inches. Weep holes are
provided by leaving open vertical joints at 4-foot intervals in the bottom course of masonry
veneer.
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FLOORING
Flooring consists of the sub-floor, underlayment and finish floor. Depending upon the type
of finish floor or sub-floor used, underlayment may not be required. Where 25/32-inch tongue
and grooved wood strip flooring is used, it may be laid directly over the sub-floor, Figure 71 .
Where lesser thicknesses of wood strip flooring are used, the thickness and grade of sub-flooring
must be adequate to support end joints at full design load, unless they occur over joists.
Underlayment is normally applied over the sub-floor where resilient tile, sheet vinyl or
carpet is used as the finish floor surface.
Sub-flooring
The sub-floor usually consists of plywood, particleboard or other wood structural panels, or
board lumber. Lumber sub-flooring is typically laid diagonally to permit wood strip finish
flooring to be laid either parallel with or at right angles to, the floor joists. End-joints in sub-
flooring are cut to occur over joists.
Wood structural panels are typically installed with the long dimension at right angles to the
joists and with the panel continuous over two or more spans. Spacing between panels should be
approximately 1/8 inch.
Underlayment
Underlayment panels are applied over sub-flooring to provide a smooth surface for
application of carpeting and other resilient floor coverings. Plywood underlayment requirements
are covered by U.S. Product Standard PS 1-95, which is published by APA-The Engineered
Wood Association (Appendix, Item 10 ). Hardboard underlayment requirements are set forth in
ANSI/AHA A135.4 (Appendix, Item 11 ) published by the American Hardboard Association.
Application of finish floor coverings is generally by specialists who follow the manufacturer’s
installation instructions for the carpet, resilient tile or vinyl products.
Wood Flooring
Hardwood and softwood strip flooring of ¾-inch or 25/32-inch thickness provides adequate
strength and stiffness for direct application over sub-flooring at right angles to joists. Where
parquet (squares) are used or where strip flooring is laid parallel to joists, the grade and thickness
of sub-flooring panels must be adequate to provide support between joists. An additional
thickness of sub-flooring may be required over the rough sub-floor in such applications.
Wood strip flooring is normally applied over building paper and is sanded and finished after
installation. An expansion joint of at least one-half inch must be provided at the edge of flooring
strips adjacent to parallel partitions and exterior walls. This joint is covered by the baseplate and
toe molding.
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WOOD DECKS
Wood decks are a special feature of many new houses and a useful add-on to others. Their
capability for providing additional low-cost living and recreational space makes it important to
consider them as part of the original house design. Use of pressure treated and naturally durable
lumber has made these outdoor structures as permanent as the house itself.
Supporting joists, posts and decking lumber must be properly grade marked and identified
as naturally durable or pressure preservative treated wood by quality control agencies approved
by the model building codes or the dwelling codes.
Design
Deck shape and size should be consistent with the general lines of the house and should be
positioned to function as part of the total structure. Orientation for sun exposure and shade is
particularly important in location of the deck.
Engineering
Cantilevered and other special deck types should be properly engineered. Forty pounds per
square foot is a minimum design live load, considering the concentration of people frequently
supported by decks. The applicable code will govern this requirement.
The initial header joist for the deck is attached to a band or header joist of the house with
through bolts or lag screws, Figure 72 . The level of the deck framing, including the 1½-inch
decking thickness is determined so that the deck surface is at least one inch below that of the
interior floor surface. If deck height is significantly different from that of the band or header
joists of the house, the deck header must be securely fastened to the wall studs. Joists are
attached to the header by proper toe-nailing, preferably, by metal hangers to prevent splitting.
Corrosion resistant hangers and hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel nails are required.
Post lengths are determined after deck framing has been supported on temporary 2x4 posts.
For posts, pressure preservative treated for ground contact, footing holes are dug at required
points. Concrete or gravel bases of 4-inch minimum thickness below the frost line are placed
over compacted soil in the holes. From the concrete or gravel base required length of post to the
deck level can be determined.
Footings for naturally durable wood posts extend 6 inches above grade. Precast concrete
piers or concrete block piers with imbedded ½-inch re-enforcing bar pins or treated wood nails
are used to secure posts against lateral movement, Figure 72 .
Decking
The floor of the deck is normally 2x4-inch or 2x6-inch lumber. It is nailed with the end-
grain showing the “bark-side-up.” Where pressure preservative treated lumber or unseasoned
naturally durable lumber species are used, decking pieces can be nailed in contact or spaced no
farther apart than a nail diameter. Kiln dried decking can be laid with a maximum spacing of ¼-
inch.
Decking nails must be good quality hot-dipped galvanized, aluminum or stainless steel.
Two 16d nails are driven at slight angles to each other at each joist position, Figure 72 . Butt
joints in 2x6 decking require three nails.
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Railings
Railing designs follow the style of the house. Railings must be securely anchored to the
deck, preferably including an extension of the posts. Openings in the railing are limited to 6
inches, or as the code requires.
Finishes
Both pressure treated and naturally durable wood are resistant to decay and insects.
However, a good water-repellent stain or paint finish will protect against checking and maintain
the attractiveness of the deck. Application of a clear water repellent preservative immediately
upon completion of the deck is recommended for both pressure treated and naturally durable
lumber.
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CONCLUSION
The home is, for many families, the major investment of a lifetime. While, in a mobile
society, many families will have lived in several homes, each structure should serve as a prized
possession, capable of providing comfortable shelter for a succession of satisfied occupants.
Basic house construction follows simple engineering principles. In addition, the
workmanship of the home, which involves carpentry and a number of other construction trades,
is in many ways a truly American art-form. This publication provides essential requirements for
construction, and information to assist in the design, construction and inspection of wood
structures of proven durability and performance.
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TABLE I. Nominal and Minimum-Dressed Sizes of
Boards, Dimension and Timbers.
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TABLE II. Wood Shingle and Shake Weather
Exposures
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Figure 1. Platform Frame Construction
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Figure 2. Balloon Frame Construction
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Figure 3. Methods of Loading Nails
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Figure 4. Sizes of Common Wire Nails
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Figure 5. Masonry Foundation Wall and Footing
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Figure 6. Permanent Wood Foundation - Crawl space
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Figure 7. Permanent Wood Foundation - Basement
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Figure 8. Sump for Poorly Drained Soils
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Figure 9. Sump for Medium to Well Drained Soils
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Figure 10. Pier Foundation and Anchorage
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Figure 11. Clearance between Earth and Floor Framing
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Figure 12. Support for Basement Post
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Figure 13. Floor Framing at Exterior Wall
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Figure 14. Girder Framing in Exterior Wall
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Figure 15. Termite Shields
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Figure 16. Anchorage of Sill to Foundation Wall
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Figure 17. Nailing Built-up Beams and Girders
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Figure 18. Joist End Bearing
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Figure 19. Joist Supported on Ledger
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Figure 20. Joist Supported by Metal Framing Anchors
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Figure 21. Joists Resting on Girder
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Figure 22. Joists Resting on Steel Beam
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Figure 23. Diagonal Bridging of Floor Joists
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Figure 24. Solid Bridging of Floor Joists
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Figure 25. Framing of Tail Joists on Ledger Strip
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Figure 26. Framing of Tail Joists by Framing Anchors
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Figure 27. Framing of Header to Trimmer by Joist Hangers
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Figure 28. Notching and Boring of Joists
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Figure 29. Framing Over Bearing Partition, Platform Construction
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Figure 30. Framing Over Bearing Partition, Balloon Construction
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Figure 31. Framing under Non-Bearing Partition
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Figure 32. Attachment of Non-Bearing Partition to Ceiling Framing
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Figure 33. Interior Stairway Framing
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Figure 34. Stairway with a Landing
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Figure 35. Framing Supporting Bathtub
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Figure 36. Second Floor Framing, Exterior Wall
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Figure 37. Second Floor Overhang of Exterior Wall, Joists at Right Angles to Supporting
Walls
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Figure 38. Second Floor Overhang of Exterior Wall, Joists Parallel to Supporting Walls
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Figure 39. Fire-stopping around Pipes
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Figure 40. Fire-stopping of Dropped Ceilings
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Figure 41. Fire-stopping of Masonry Walls - Floor
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Figure 42. Fire-stopping of Masonry Walls - Ceiling
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Figure 43. Draft-stopping of Trussed Floors
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Figure 44. Multiple Studs at Corners
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Figure 45. Wall Framing at Intersecting Partitions
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Figure 46. Exterior Wall Openings, Header Details with Cripple Studs
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Figure 47. Exterior Wall Openings, Header Details with Joist Hangers
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Figure 48. Framing of Bay Window
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Figure 49. Wall Framing at Gable Ends
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Figure 50. Wall and Floor Framing at Fireplace
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Figure 51. Hearth Centering Detail
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Figure 52. Clearance of Fireplace Trim
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Figure 53. Section through Mantle
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Figure 54. Building Paper and Siding Application
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Figure 55. Application of Wood Shingles
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Figure 56. Roof Framing Ceiling Joists Parallel to Rafters
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Figure 57. Roof Framing, Ceiling Joists Perpendicular to Rafters
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Figure 58. Roof Framing Gable Overhang
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Figure 59. Flat Roof Framing
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Figure 60. Valley Rafter Roof Framing
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Figure 61. Hip Rafter Roof Framing
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Figure 62. Roof Framing at Eave
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Figure 63. Shed Dormer Roof Framing
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Figure 64. Gable Dormer Framing
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Figure 65. Roof Framing Around Chimney
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Figure 66. Roof Ventilation Requirements
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Figure 67. Ventilating Eave Overhangs
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Figure 68. Wood Siding Patterns and Nailing
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Figure 69. Corner Treatments for Wood Siding
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Figure 70. Application of Masonry Veneer to Wood Framing
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Figure 71. Wood Strip Flooring
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Figure 72. Wood Deck
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Figure 73. Ceiling-Floor Partition Separation
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Appendix
1. Wood Frame Construction Manual for One- and Two-Family Dwellings ,
American Forest & Paper Association, 1111 19th Street, N.W., Suite 800,
Washington, D.C. 20036.
2. American Softwood Lumber Standard , PS 20-99; U.S. Dept. of Commerce,
National Institute of Standards and Technology, U.S. Government Printing Office,
Washington, D.C. 20402.
3. National Design Specificationâ for Wood Construction , American Forest & Paper
Association, 1111 19th Street, N.W., Suite 800, Washington, D.C. 20036.
4. Span Tables for Joists and Rafters , American Forest & Paper Association, 1111
19th Street, N.W., Suite 800, Washington, D.C. 20036.
5. Plank and Beam Framing for Residential Buildings- Wood Construction Data No.
4 , American Forest & Paper Association, 1111 19th Street, N.W., Suite 800,
Washington, D.C. 20036.
6. Permanent Wood Foundation System-Basic Requirements, Technical Report No. 7
, American Forest & Paper Association, 1111 19th Street, N.W., Suite 800,
Washington, D.C. 20036.
7. Permanent Wood Foundation Design and Construction Guide , Southern Forest
Products Association, P. O. Box 641700, Kenner, LA 70064.
8. Design of Wood Structures for Permanence-Wood Construction Data No. 6 ,
American Forest & Paper Association, 1111 19th Street, N.W., Suite 800,
Washington, D.C. 20036.
9. Recommendations for Installing and Finishing Wood and Hardboard Siding Over
Rigid Foam Sheathing , American Forest & Paper Association, 1111 19th Street,
N.W., Suite 800, Washington, D.C. 20036.
10. U.S. Product Standard PS1-95 Construction and Industrial Plywood , APA-The
Engineered Wood Association, P.O. Box 11700, Tacoma, Washington, 98411.
11. Basic Hardboard ANSI/AHA Standard A135.4 , American Hardboard Association,
1210 W. Northwest Hwy, Palatine, IL 60067.
12. Research Report 82-2: Ceiling-Floor Partition Separation in Light Frame
Construction , Truss Plate Institute, 583 D’Onofrio Dr., Madison, WI 53719.
13. Partition Separation Prevention and Solutions , Wood Truss Council of America,
6300 Enterprise Lane, Madison, WI 53719
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