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When it comes to pastry, you cannot get more "classic French" than cannelés
(pronounced "can-eh-lay"), also spelled canelés. They come from the Bordeaux
region of France, where they are a regional pride. And rightly so, because they are
absolutely delicious accompaniments to tea, breakfast, or as a dessert.

They are surprisingly simple pastries, needing only basic ingredients–milk, flour,
eggs, butter, sugar, and vanilla. But baking them at high heat in ridged fluted
molds transforms them from a liquid batter to deep golden brown treasures. The
outer shell is crunchy and crisp while the inside is delicious custard.

For reasons that escape me, Cannelés are still rather rare outside of France unless
you are lucky enough to have a bakery around that sells them. The task is left up to
passionate home bakers to make them. I make them quite often. Cannelés are one
of my favorite pastries, a privilege they don't share with many others. I highly
recommend giving them a try.

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 Cannelés should have a crisp
exterior with a soft custard
center

Ingredients

Makes about 18 medium-sized cannelés

500 grams whole milk (17.6 ounces, 2 cups)

50 grams butter (1.7 ounces, 3.5 tablespoons)
250 grams white granulated sugar (8.8 ounces, 1 cup)
150 grams bread flour (5.3 ounces, ~1 cup)

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 3 egg yolks (100 grams, 3.5 ounces)
3 grams salt (0.1 ounce, 1 large pinch)
1 vanilla bean or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
50 grams cognac or dark rum (1.7 ounces, ~1/4 cup)

I personally prefer cognac for cannelés, though rum is the traditional liquor. It has
a unique aroma and taste which give the cannelés more character. Rum tends to be
a little more bland in the final product. You want to use a medium quality liquor
for cannelés as a cheap one will come through and the nuances of a very premium
liquor will be lost in baking anyway. This is true of most pastries.

For lining the molds, you will also need to melt a mixture of:

50 grams butter (1.7 ounces)

50 grams beeswax (1.7 ounces)

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 Special Equipment

CANNELÉS MOLDS

Mauviel M'Passion Cannelés Ibili Individual Cannelés Molds

Copper Mold

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 Silicone cannelés molds Carbon Steel Cannelés molds

You will need some special molds in order to make cannelés. Copper molds will
yield the best result, but they come at a high cost ($20 - $30 a piece). Copper is a
highly conductive metal, which will transfer the oven heat to the batter quickly
and consistently to form a dark brown crust.

Other metals will have a similar effect, though neither aluminum nor steel come
even remotely close to the conductivity in copper. The inexpensive alternative is
silicone. Silicone molds work well enough, but will never yield a perfect canelé.
They also require some extra time in the oven for an uneven result; the middle of

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 the sides will always be less cooked than the top or bottom. If you can afford them,
spring for the copper.

ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT

Beeswax Grade A vanilla beans (optional)

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 Pastry brush for brushing the Kitchen scale to measure
molds ingredients

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 Whisk for the batter

You can skip the beeswax in favor of butter or even nonstick spray, but it's not
recommended. Beeswax seals the cannelés for a longer shelf life and forms a crust
for a crisp shell. And while there is no added flavor, it does give a nice mouthfeel.

Preparation

Heat the milk, butter, and vanilla to a rolling boil then turn off the heat. Allow the
vanilla to steep while you prepare the other steps.

Melt the butter and the beeswax

together

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 Brush the insides of the molds
with the beeswax and butter

Whisk the yolks together with

the sugar and flour

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 Temper the egg yolks by
whisking in 1/3 of the milk, then
the another 1/3, then the last
1/3 of the mixture

At this point, the batter will be very liquid. Finally, whisk in the cognac.

Pour the batter 4/5 up the mold

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 Bake the cannelés for 10
minutes at 450°F (232°C) then
lower the temperature to 375°F
(190°C) and continue to bake for
45 minutes to 1 hour

The cannelés will rise in their molds like a soufflé before collapsing back into their
molds, so be sure there is a pan below to catch the excess butter that will drip out.
You might have to take the cannelés out to slightly cool if they rise too high over
the top. This quick-rise period at high heat will help to start the browning process
for the crunchy outer shell. It will continue to crisp at the lower heat while forming
a custard inside.

You want a very dark brown color. When they look brown ready to come out, let
them bake for 10 minutes longer. Cannelés bake to a very deep brown, much more
than you are used to with other pastries. If you are worried they are starting to
burn, you can always unmold one to check. You might be surprised by a blonde
interior, especially if using silicone molds.

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 Unmold the cannelés using
tongs or a towel to slam the
molds upside-down on a wire
rack

It's extremely important to unmold the cannelés while they are still hot from the
oven. The heat will drive out steam and keep the exterior nice and crisp.

Delicious

Enjoy your cannelés the day-of when they are crispiest. If you used beeswax, they
will last a bit longer. Do not cover or refrigerate them or they will lose their

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 crunchy shell.

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