FISH & SHELLFISH COOKING METHODS

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The delicate nature of fish and seafood requires extra care and attention
during the cooking process. Because the muscles are much softer and the
connective tissue is weaker than their land counterparts, it is easy to overcook
and ruin their flavors and textures. The same techniques used for cooking
meats and poultry can be applied to fish and seafood but cooking temperatures
and times are generally reduced.

FISH FLAVOR
The perishability of fish and shellfish demands the freshest selection for the
best results. Very fresh fish have flavors of grass and sea. Ocean fish generally
are milder in flavor than their freshwater counterparts. Lean fish have a milder
flavor than fatty fish, and freshwater bottom feeders including catfish have
stronger flavors due to their diet. White fleshed fish like cod and sole have a
milder taste than darker colored fish like tuna which possesses a more robust
and meaty flavor.
The strong odor often associated with fish is found in the finned ocean varieties
and to a lesser extent in mollusks and crustaceans. Saltwater fish possess
molecules called Trimethylamine N-oxide (TMAO) on their skin to help them
balance the salt and water in their bodies. When the fish die enzymes go to
work breaking down TMAO to the odorous molecule Trimethylamine (TMA).
Removing the skin, rinsing the fish before use, and keeping the fish iced are all
ways to counteract the smell.
Heat transforms the flavor of fish and the longer it is cooked the stronger its
taste. Frying and grilling create Maillard browning that mutes some of the fishy
flavor. Marinating, brining, and poaching in court bouillon also counteracts
these strong tastes. Aromatic vegetables, herbs and spices provide balance too.

FISH TEXTURE
Unlike meats, that require several days to soften after the effects of rigor mortis
set in, fresh killed fish require a matter of hours to soften their texture. And
unlike meats, fish are not aged for extended periods as they are best served as
fresh as possible. Salting or lightly brining the fish before cooking helps to firm
the proteins and add moisture. But the best way to control fish texture is by
avoiding overcooking.

RAW PREPARATIONS
Because of the naturally tender characteristics of fish and seafood, many
varieties are served in raw preparations including sashimi, sushi, and tartare.
Ceviche is a popular raw dish that uses citric acids to marinade and “cold
cook” the fish. Salted, cured or pickled fish are other international favorites.
Raw clams and oysters on the half shell are popular too. All of these require the
freshest fish of the highest quality and careful handling that include strict
temperature control and high sanitation standards.

Salmon Tartare Scallop Ceviche

The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) requires that fish intended for
raw consumption be frozen to kill any parasites including worms for at least 24
hours below a temperature of -4˚F/-20˚C, and thawed under refrigeration for at
least 12 hours. It is important to point out that that freezing doesn't kill all
harmful microorganisms as some are killed only when fully cooked. Although
the FDA rule does not apply to shellfish, mollusks also are susceptible to
various types of viruses and parasites and should be treated carefully before
preparation and consumption. Some shellfish are now being pasteurized or
irradiated to reduce some of these health concerns.

Sashimi

FISH COOKERY
There are hundreds of different types of fish with about 3 dozen regularly found
in American markets. Since there are many more varieties of fish than meats or
poultry, it's much harder to generalize about basic cooking techniques. The
challenge is compounded by the fact that since they cook so quickly it is easy
to ruin the texture, flavor, and moistness of the fish in a matter of seconds.
Some fish like snapper are more forgiving if overcooked a little, others like tuna
become very dry if cooked beyond a medium doneness, and still others like
shark must be fully cooked to a higher temperature to soften their connective
tissue. It is important to become familiar with the individual characteristics of
common fish varieties so that the appropriate methods and cooking times can
be chosen to maximize their quality.
Fish proteins coagulate at a lower temperature, generally between
120-130˚F/50-55˚C. Fats and gelatin in the muscles also melt at a lower point
too. Fish proteins start to dry out and lose moisture at 140˚F/60˚C and will be
very dry at 160˚F/71˚C. In a few cartilaginous fish, like shark and skate,
cooking to 140˚F/60˚C is needed to soften their connective tissue. Some fish
including tuna and swordfish are better when cooked to medium-rare while
other fish like Chilean sea bass should be fully cooked otherwise it will be
rubbery. Fatty fish take longer to cook than lean fish.

One important aspect that affects cooking time is the thickness of the cut of
fish. A general rule of thumb is to allow approximately 10 minutes per 1 inch/2
cm of thickness when cooking but this is a very imprecise method. It is better
to master the touch method for smaller cuts of fish and seafood and to know
the texture and signs of fish that is cooked properly but not overdone. An
instant-read thermometer is also a valuable tool for cooking whole fish and
larger cuts of fish.
SHELLFISH COOKERY
Most shellfish can be cooked using any of the basic techniques for fish while
observing similar guidelines. Shellfish generally has more connective tissue
and therefore will firm up when cooked. Small crustaceans and mollusks will
be tenderer than larger ones. In all cases using slower and gentler cooking
methods with a minimal amount of time will result in a moist and tender
outcome.

 Crustaceans should be cooked minimally because they can get dry and
rubbery if overcooked.
 Shrimp are commonly prepared by steaming, simmering, sautéing,
grilling and poaching.
 Lobsters can be poached, steamed, grilled, broiled and sautéed.
 Because most crab meat is cleaned and cooked they can be used in a
variety of preparations from simply heating the crab legs, or prepared in
stuffing and crab cakes. Fresh crab can be steamed or in the case of soft-
shell crabs sautéed or deep fried.
 Mollusks will be chewy but tender when minimally cooked but can
toughen when cooked too long. Similar to meat, they must be cooked for
an extended period to tenderize them again.
 Clams are used in chowders, soups, and stews. Smaller clams can be
eaten raw or steamed. Larger clams can be stewed, braised or deep-fried.
The large geoduck is usually pounded to tenderize it and sliced thin.
 Mussels are commonly steamed or stewed and can also be fried
 Oysters are eaten raw but can also be used in soups, stews, deep-fried
or baked.
 Octopus flesh is tenderized through pounding or tumbling. It is also
tenderized through braising, simmering or steaming. Octopus can also
be eaten raw in ceviche and sushi.
 Squid, also called calamari, can be tenderized by scoring the connective
tissue of the body. It is often deep-fried but can also be stewed or
braised. Quick cooking is best because squid can become quite tough
and will need to be cooked a long time to tenderize.
 Cuttlefish can be treated similar to squid in cooking and handling
techniques.
 Conch meat has a mild, sweet clam-like flavor but is extremely tough
and must be pounded, chopped, or marinated in lime juice to tenderize it
before cooking. Some common preparations include fritters, chowder,
steaks and marinated raw salads.
 Sea urchin is eaten raw in ceviche-style preparations.

COOKING METHODS

Grill/Broil
Follow the basic rules for grilling meats and poultry but use a slightly lower
temperature. Season and oil the fish before beginning. Use firm fish and
shellfish that can hold up to the heat and won’t fall apart once on the grill.
Grill baskets can be used for delicate fillets or whole fish to ease the turning
process or can be placed on sizzler platters and set under a broiler to cook.
Shrimp, lobster, and scallops do well on the grill because they have stronger
connective tissue. Check for doneness by the touch method for smaller
fillets and steaks, and for whole fish use a thermometer.
Grilling/Broiling Method
 Preheat grill or broiler; clean and season the grates.
 To ensure an even cooking process, cut fish fillets and steaks to a
uniform thickness.
 Salt the fish and allow to rest for 15-30 minutes to draw out excess
moisture.
 Pat the fish dry with a towel to remove excess surface moisture and oil
the fish.
 Depending on the delicacy, size, and heat source, grill directly on the
grate; place in a basket, or on a broiler platter.
 For smaller cuts use the touch method to determine doneness, for larger
fish use an instant-read thermometer.
 Remember to under-cook slightly to compensate for carryover cooking.
Roast/Bake
A simple but effective way to cook fish, baking or roasting can be used as a
stand-alone method or to finish fish after pan-searing on the stove top.
Since the fish usually does not gain much color in the process, paprika is
sometimes sprinkled on the surface. Herbs, spices, bread crumbs or nut
crusts will also enhance the color, flavor, and texture of the fish. Convection
ovens will produce more browning, or an initial pan-sear on the stove can
also do the trick. The fish can be portion cut or cooked whole for a more
rustic presentation. Large fish are often scored in the thickest part to
accelerate cooking and ensure that the thinner tail section does not
overcook.
Roasting Method
 Pre-heat oven to desired temperature, for smaller fish or fillets 425-
130˚F/50-55˚C
 Prep fish and place on a sheet pan
 Season and brush with oil
 Place in oven and cook to the appropriate degree of doneness
 Serve with a prepared sauce

Sauté
A popular method for cooking fish and shellfish, the fish can be dredged in
flour just prior to cooking which adds texture, provides colors, and helps
keep the fish moist. Sautéed fish a la Meuniere is a classic French
technique garnished with brown butter, lemon and chopped parsley.

Skinless – This method is often used for cooking fish a

la Meuniere, amandine, or with other ingredients
including capers, tomatoes, or cucumbers.
To properly sauté make sure the pan is heated
appropriately. The fish should sizzle when added to the
hot pan. In the case of sole fillets they will only need a
minute or two on each side to cook and should be lightly browned when
done.
Skin-On – Fish that have tender skins, including snapper, salmon and trout
can be sautéed with the skin intact providing a crisp texture that enhances
the presentation. The technique must be properly executed and served
immediately otherwise the skin will be soggy and unpalatable.
1. Pat the fish dry with paper towels.
2. Liberally season fish with salt and pepper.
3. Brush with oil or clarified butter.
4. Heat a well-seasoned sauté pan, add oil or clarified butter, and place the
fish skin-side down to begin the searing process. Press lightly on the fillet
with a fish spatula to flatten and evenly crisp the skin.
5. Turn the fish and continue to sauté while basting the skin with some of
the butter in the pan.
6. If the fillet is large, place the pan in a hot oven to finish.
7. For plating always serve the fish skin-side up to preserve the crispness of
the texture.
8. Serve with a prepared sauce.
Pan-Fry
By adding more oil to the pan and lowering the heat, fish can be coated with
flour, breadcrumbs, or cornmeal and pan-fried to create a crisp texture.
Deep-Fry
Deep-frying, immersing food in in hot oil is popular in many cultures for
preparing all types of fish and shellfish including shrimp, oysters, clams,
and scallops. Breading or batter provides a crisp texture and the oil adds a
savory quality to the palate. The method is best for small tender portions of
food that cook in a matter of minutes.
Breaded
For breaded foods a three-stage breading process is used consisting of flour,
egg wash and breadcrumbs. It is a convenient technique because the
product can be prepared in advance and kept in a cold or frozen state.
Foods are fried at a temperature of 350˚F/177˚C. For ease in dropping and
removing foods from the deep-fryer use the “basket method”. A prepared
sauce is served with the fish.
Batter-Fried
Batters are prepared with flour or other refined starches, water, beer or milk
and eggs. Japanese tempura is a batter that is very light in color and
texture. Beer batter is often used in fish fries. The batter is prepared in
advance and the product is dipped in the batter just prior to dropping into
the frying oil. For batter-fried foods, use the “swimming method” for deep-
frying without a basket otherwise the batter will cling to a basket making it
difficult to remove from the fryer. Serve with a prepared sauce as an
accompaniment.
Simmer/Boil
Moist heat cooking methods are often used for many preparations. They are
simple methods that can bring out the flavor and subtle texture of fish and
seafood. Boiling is a crude method that can often overcook and damage the
delicate textures of fish and seafood but simmering is a more gentle
approach that will preserve the quality of the product and the temperature
is much easier to control. Although crawfish boils in the southern US and
fish boils in the New England and Midwest states are still used to prepare
these delicious one pot dinners, more chefs are becoming attuned to lower
temperature cooking for fish and shellfish.

Whether simmering or boiling the cooking liquid is salted and enhanced by

the addition of aromatic vegetables, lemon, herbs and spices and often
combined with vegetables including potatoes, onions, carrots and corn. This
method can be adopted for all types of shellfish including crabs, lobster,
clams and shrimp.
Steam
Steaming is a healthy cooking method that brings out the natural
characteristics of fish and shellfish. Because it is a naked method the
product must be of the highest quality otherwise any off flavors will be
readily evident. Steaming is a particularly popular method for cooking
mussels and clams. Shell-on shrimp, crab, and lobster are also well-suited
for this method. Steaming can be done in a chamber, a bamboo steamer, on
a rack in a sealed pot, or by simply laying it in a sealed pan with a small
amount of liquid. The preparation is enhanced through the use of
aromatics, herbs, spices, butter and other flavorings.

En Papillote
The classic technique of cooking en papillote
is achieved by wrapping fish in a folded pouch
of parchment paper with vegetables, herbs
and spices. Although it is cooked in a dry
oven it is actually a moist-heat method
because the paper seals in the vapors and
steams the fish.
Encasing the fish allows it to take on the
character of the vegetables and seasonings
surrounding it. Similar results can be
achieved through the use of grape or banana
leaves, corn husks, salt crusts, pastry, or foil.
By wrapping in leaves, the technique can be adapted for grilling or s teaming
in a chamber.
Start with tender cuts of fish or shellfish. Since the method is a quick
cooking technique, use tender vegetables including mushrooms and
zucchini or blanched carrots cut into fine julienne. Aromatics including
minced shallots, scallions, garlic or ginger and fresh or dried herbs accent
the preparation. The dish can be enhanced with the addition of white wine,
soy sauce, or citrus juices. The final presentation can also include a
prepared sauce.
The method can be difficult to judge doneness which can result in
overcooked fish. Testing temperature and times in advance will help achieve
the desired outcome.
Poach
Two classic styles of poaching are submerge, also called deep poaching, and
shallow poaching. Butter or oil poaching is a contemporary version of
poaching and is similar to a confit in its method.
Submerge Poach
Sometimes call deep-poaching, this method is commonly used for whole fish
and prepared by submerging the product completely in a court bouillon. The
classic French dish “Truite au Bleu” is prepared in this fashion which
requires a freshly killed and gutted trout. A sauce is prepared separately. If
the whole fish are large, they are
sometimes wrapped in cheesecloth to hold
them together.

Shallow Poach
Shallow poaching is used for smaller cuts
of fish that are folded or rolled into
paupiettes. Mousseline forcemeat can be
used as a filling for the paupiettes. A small
amount to liquid, usually in the form of
wine or stock is added to the pan along
with shallots, garlic and a little butter. The fish is gently cooked either on
the stove top or transferred to an oven. A sauce is prepared from the caisson
(cooking liquid) in the pan.
Stew/Braise
Traditionally braises and stews are
slow methods for cooking tough
cuts of meats and poultry that can
often take hours to complete.
Adapting these methods for fish
and seafood requires the cooking
time to be shortened dramatically
to create an optimal dish.