NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION

TECHNOLOGY, PATNA

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

2D APPAREL CAD & GRADING

END-TERM JURY

Objective: Report on Construction, Grading and Marker making of Shirt Patterns

Under The Guidance Of- Mr.Navanendra Singh

(Assistant Professor Nift,Patna)

Submitted By- Anushka Chaudhary(BFT/21/805)

Kumar Keshav(BFT/21/491)
Mritunjay Kr. Bharti(BFT/21/913)

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 Table of Contents

Abstract ..........................................................................................................(3)
Certificate .......................................................................................................(4)
Acknowledgement ..........................................................................................(5)
List of Figures .................................................................................................(6)

Tackpack of Shirt .........................................................................................(6,7)

Design Specification ........................................................................................(8)
Measurement Sheet of Shirt ............................................................................(9)
Rule to Measure the Shirt​............................................................................(10)
Grading Rule For Shirt .................................................................................(11)
2D Digital Pattern Making ...........................................................................(12)
2D Pattern Grading ......................................................................................(13)
2D Pattern Grading Rule ..............................................................................(14)
Steps For Pattern Making In Modaris .....................................................(15,16)
Pattern making and Grading Menus .............................................................(17)
Basic Pattern’s of Shirt .............................................................................(18,19)
Components of Shirt With Seam Allowance .................................................(20)
Components of Shirt With Grading ..............................................................(21)
Efficiency ......................................................................................................(22)
Conclusion ....................................................................................................(23)

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 Abstract

This assignment focuses on constructing formal shirt patterns and utilizing Lectra
software (Modaris, Marker Manager, Marker Making) for digital grading and marker
making. The assignment delves into the application of digital technologies in garment
production, emphasizing efficiency and precision. Through Lectra software, the
project aims to optimize the shirt-making process, enhancing accuracy and
streamlining production workflows.

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 Certificate

This is to certify that this assignment on- 2D Apparel CAD & Grading is based on the
original research work of-Anushka Chaudhary, Kumar Keshav, Mritunjay Kumar
Bharti, of Department of Fashion Technology sem-VI conducted under the guidance
of- Mr. Navanendra Singh towards partial fulfilment of curriculum of the subject-
Maintenance Management & Internet of Things of National Institute Of Fashion
Technology, Patna.

No part of this work has been copied from any other source. Material, wherever
borrowed has been duly acknowledged.

Date: 12/05/2024

Anushka Chaudhary(BFT/21/805)
Kumar Keshav (BFT/21/491)
Mritunjay Kr. Bharti (BFT/21/913)

Mr. Navanendra Singh

(Assistant Professor Nift, Patna)

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 Acknowledgement

I would like to express my sincere gratitude to the esteemed faculty members of

department of Fashion Technology for their invaluable support and guidance
throughout the course of this research.Their expertise, dedication, and encouragement
have been instrumental in the successful completion of this work.
I am deeply thankful to Mr. Navanendra Singh who provided their insights, feedback,
and mentorship. Their willingness to share their knowledge and engage in thoughtful
discussions greatly enriched this research.
I also extend my appreciation to the entire academic community at National Institute
of Fashion Technology, Patna for fostering an environment of intellectual growth and
research excellence. The resources, facilities, and opportunities provided have been
essential in shaping this project.

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 List of Figures

Fig.no Figure Table

1.0 Medium/Orange Shirt (Front & Back) 7

1.1 Sketch of Shirt Front & Back 8

1.2 Rule to Measure the Shirt​ 10

1.3 Steps For Pattern Making In Modaris 15

1.4 Steps For Pattern Making In Modaris 15

1.5 Steps For Pattern Making In Modaris 16

1.6 Basic Pattern’s of Shirt 18

1.7 Marker Manager 19

1.8 Marker Making 19

1.9 Components of Shirt With Seam Allowance 20

2.0 Components of Shirt With Grading 21

2.1 Efficiency 22

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Tackpack of Shirt

Figure 1.0

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 Design Specification

Detail Sketch FRONT & BACK

Figure 1.1

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Measurement Sheet of Shirt

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Rule to Measure the Shirt​

Figure 1.2

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Grading Rule For Shirt

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 2D Digital Pattern Making

Accuracy: Digital patterns can be precisely drafted and scaled, ensuring a high
level of accuracy in the final garment.

Efficiency: Once a digital pattern is created, it can be easily modified, resized, and
reused for different sizes or variations of the garment, saving time and effort
compared to manually altering paper patterns.

Collaboration: Digital patterns can be easily shared and collaborated on among

designers, pattern makers, and manufacturers, streamlining the design and
production process.

Storage and Organization: Digital patterns can be stored electronically,

eliminating the need for physical storage space and making it easier to organize
and retrieve patterns when needed.

Integration with other processes: Digital patterns can be seamlessly integrated with
other digital tools and processes used in garment design and production, such as
virtual prototyping and automated cutting systems.

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 2D Pattern Grading

Base pattern: The designer starts with a base pattern, which is typically the
pattern for a single size of the garment. This base pattern serves as the
starting point for grading.

Size increments: Grading rules define the size increments for each dimension
of the pattern (e.g., chest, waist, hip). These size increments determine how
much each part of the pattern will be scaled up or down to create different
sizes.

Digitally scaling: Using the 2D CAD software, the pattern maker applies
the grading rules to scale the base pattern to create patterns for other sizes.
This involves stretching or shrinking the pattern along specific lines or
points while ensuring that the overall shape and proportions of the garment
remain consistent.

Validation and refinement: After grading, the pattern maker validates the
graded patterns to ensure that they accurately represent each size and that
the proportions and fit of the garment are maintained across sizes.
Adjustments may be made as needed to fine-tune the graded patterns.

Output: Once the grading process is complete and the patterns have been
validated, the graded patterns are ready for use in garment production.
They can be printed out as paper patterns or exported in digital formats for
use with automated cutting systems.

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 2D Pattern Grading Rule

1.Size increments: Define the size increments for each dimension of the pattern
(e.g., chest, waist, hip). For example, a common size increment might be 1 inch
or 2 centimeters.

2.Grade rules: Apply the size increments to each part of the pattern according
to predetermined rules. These rules can vary depending on the garment type,
sizing standards, and design requirements. Here's a simplified example:

To increase the size of a pattern

Add the specified size increment to each measurement dimension.
To decrease the size of a pattern:
Subtract the specified size increment from each measurement dimension.

3.Note: Grade rules can be more complex, considering factors like ease
allowance, style lines, and grading distribution to ensure proper fit and
aesthetics across different sizes.

4.Application: Apply the grade rules to the base pattern using 2D CAD
software. The software provides tools to scale the pattern up or down according
to the defined grade rules while maintaining the shape and proportions of the
garment.

5.Validation: Validate the graded patterns to ensure that they accurately

represent each size and maintain the desired fit and proportions across the size
range. This may involve comparing the graded patterns to standardized size
charts or fitting them on dress forms or fit models.

6.Refinement: Make any necessary adjustments or refinements to the graded

patterns to achieve the desired fit, sizing, and design aesthetics.

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 Steps For Pattern Making In Modaris
Step1. Open modaris application and creat new sheet with suitable name.

Figure 1.3

Step2. Open new sheet.

Step3. Go to display and select Title Block, Handles & Sizes.
Step4. Import the size chart ( S,M,L,XL,e.t.c.)using Imp. EVT function.with putting
star mark(*)on sample size.

Figure 1.4

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Step5. Set the units to cm. To select move the cursor over length unit and drag the
mouse off to the sideof the menu and the sub menu appears.

Figure 1.5

Step6. Go to file section and select new ,enter the model name .model will create.

Step7. Go to file section and select acces path,select the path of the desired folder
and do model validation to save your work.

Step8. Start with a basic block pattern for the shirt design.
Step9. Use Modaris drafting tools (Tools used for pattern making are: Rectangle,
Developed, Bezier, Reshape, Len.Str.Line., Line seam, Extract, Control, Imp. EVT,
Variant, Sym2Pts etc.) to customize the pattern, including front, back, collar, sleeve,
cuff, slit ,placket .yoke .

Step10. Now extract the pattern using seam in F4.

Step11. To make the half pattern into full pattern go to F5 and select Svm2Pts. (For
half back,half sleeve, half yoke, half collar and collar stand and half cuff )

Step12. Go to F4 and select line seam for give seam allowances; F2 for Notches .

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 Pattern making and Grading Menus

F1 – Points and Lines.

F2 – Notches, Orientation, and Tools.
F3 – Modification.
F4 – Industrialization, Piece.
F5 – Derived Pieces, Folds, and CAM.
F6 – Grading.
F7 – Evolution System, Nest Modification.
F8 – Measurements, Assembly, Variants.

Shortcut Tools
Ctrl+J = Access paths
ctrl+U = Title block
shift+N = New sheet
Enter = zoom in
J = arrange desktop
Home = visualize one piece
Ctrl+Z = Undo
ctrl+W = Redo
S = Select/exit a function
Z = delete sheet
Page up = see previous piece
Page down = see next piece
8 = Visualize all
End = move sheets
I = select sheets
7 = visualize selection
F6+F12+F9 = visualize sizes
F9= Nest
F10 = hide sizes
Shift+T = Rectangle

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Shift+X = Parallel
B = Bezier
Shift+H = Handles
R = Reshape
0 = Straight line
V = developed
Shift+L+enter = show line
measurement
Ctrl+E = save

Basic Pattern’s of Shirt

Figure 1.6

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Figure 1.7

Figure 1.8

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Components of Shirt With Seam Allowance

Figure 1.9

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Components of Shirt With Grading

Figure 2.0

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Efficiency

Figure 2.1

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 Conclusion

Implementing Lectra software, including Modaris, Marker Manager, and Marker

Making, has transformed traditional garment design and production. These digital
tools enhance precision, efficiency, and productivity, enabling the creation of accurate
patterns and optimal material use. The detailed steps for pattern making, grading,
variant creation, and marker plotting illustrate the software's utility, achieving 78.92%
efficiency in marker plotting.
This project highlights the importance of advanced technology in the fashion
industry, equipping us with the skills to innovate and stay competitive. We are
grateful to our institution for providing the resources and support to master these
valuable technologies, preparing us for future success.

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