LABORATORY MANUAL

Introduction to Textile Chemical Processing

(TE-2113)

Prepared by:

Dr. Hafiz Affan Abid

Department of Textile Engineering

National Textile University, Pakistan

Experiment No. 01
 Experiment No. 01

Title: To study the effect of various concentrations of enzymes on Tegawa, Weight loss and
absorbency of 100% cotton fabric using enzymatic desizing method.

Theory:

Desizing is process in which size material applied on the warp yarn of the fabric was removed to
enhance the penetration of dyes and chemicals in the fabric. Starch and its derivatives are the
sizing agent mostly used to size the warp yarn of the woven fabrics due to its low cost. Starch is
hydrophobic material that inhibits the penetration of liquid solutions. Starch can be degraded
through hydrolysis and oxidative techniques. The hydrolysis of starch can be performed using
acid, alkali and enzymes.

Working Principle:

Enzymes are high molecular weight protein biocatalysts. These can be extracted from animals,
plants or bacteria. They are specific in action. The processes performed through enzymes are
more environmentally friendly. The enzymes used for starch degradation are amylases
hydrolyzing the starch into water soluble product. Moreover, the amylases have no effect on
cotton structure. Working with the enzymes, one should be careful about the temperature and pH
of the desize solution as the enzymes are only active in specific range of temperature and pH.

In this experiment, cotton woven fabric has been desized using -amylase through exhaust
method. The Desizing efficiency will depend upon the enzyme concentration, pH, temperature
and time of treatment. The Tegawa Rating, % weight loss and absorbency of desized fabric will
be effected after enzymatic desizing.

Working Procedure:

Prepare the liquor by following recipe

Liquor ratio 1:50

Enzyme 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 g/l

 Wetting agent 1g/l

Time 45 min

Temperature 60 ᵒC

• Weigh dry cotton fabric

• Prepare the Desizing liquor according to the give recipe
• Adjust the temperature of dye bath. & pour the Desizing liquor into it according to the
given liquor ratio and add cotton fabric in it.
• Carry on the process for the recommended time
• Wash & neutralize the fabric
• Weigh the desized fabric & make required calculations
• Check the completion of the process with iodine solution test

Observation and Calculations:

Subjective Evaluation

• The appearance of the treated and untreated fabric should be evaluated after enzyme
Desizing.
Sr. Recipe pH Temperature Time Tegawa SD % SD Absorbency SD
No. (g/l) Weight (Sec)
Loss
1 1- 1- 1-
2- 2- 2-
3- 3- 3-
4-
5-
2 1- 1- 1-
2- 2- 2-
3- 3- 3-
Results:

Graphs and Charts:

Demonstrate results in charts and graphs using data. Always add Standard deviation (SD).

Conclusions:

Interpret the outcomes of your experiment according to the process, chemicals, working
conditions, and results (as presented in graphs and charts).

Questions
1) Why Desizing is important during Wet Processing of cotton fabrics?

2) What is Iodine (Tegawa test)?

3) How does the enzyme concentration effect degree of desizing?

4) What is role of pH in enzymatic desizing?

Experiment No. 02
 Experiment No. 02
Title: To study the effect of Scouring on absorbency of 100% cotton fabric using exhaust
method.

Theory:

Natural Fiber contains dust, oil, wax, minerals and many impurities. These impurities are needed
to be removed for further wet processing. Scouring is the process in which cotton fabric is
treated with Sodium Hydroxide in order to remove above mentioned impurities and enhance the
absorbency of fabric for better dyeing, printing and finishing of fabric. Cotton fabric is treated
with low concentration of Sodium hydroxide for emulsification, saponification and solubilization
of impurities.

Working Principle:

Sodium Hydroxide is strong alkali, natural and acquired impurities can be efficiently removed
from cotton fabric. Fats and waxes are removed by the action of alkali and surface active agents,
in some cases use of solvent and surfactants mixtures may be necessary. Pectins and related
substances are solubilized by the action of alkali, usually NaOH, which also acts as swelling
agent to facilitate removal. Amino acids or proteins are solubilized by producing corresponding
sodium salt.

Working Procedure:

Prepare the liquor by following recipe

Liquor ratio 1:50

NaOH 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 g/l

Wetting agent 1g/l

Time 45 min

Temperature 90 ᵒC
 • Weigh dry cotton fabric & make required calculations
• Prepare the Scouring liquor according to the give recipe
• Adjust the temperature of dye bath. & pour the Scouring liquor into it according to the
given liquor ratio and add cotton fabric in it.
• Carry on the process for the recommended time
• Wash & neutralize the fabric
• Check the completion of the process with required testing.

Observation and Calculations:

Subjective Evaluation

• The appearance of the treated and untreated fabric should be evaluated after scouring.
Sr. Recipe Temperature Time Absorbency SD % SD
No. (g/l) (sec) Weight
Loss
1 1- 1-
2- 2-
3- 3-
4-
5-
2 1- 1-
2- 2-
3- 3-

Results:

Graphs and Charts:

Demonstrate results in charts and graphs using data. Always add Standard deviation (SD).

Conclusions:
Interpret the outcomes of your experiment according to the process, chemicals, working
conditions, and results (as presented in graphs and charts).

Questions
1) Why Scouring is important during Wet Processing of cotton fabrics?

2) Describe the terms Emulsification, Saponification and Solubilization in relation to

scouring?

3) Why NaOH is used for scouring of cotton fabric?

4) What is role of temperature in scouring?

Experiment No. 03
 Experiment No. 03
Title: To study the effect of Hydrogen Peroxide Bleaching on Whiteness and absorbency of
100% cotton fabric using exhaust method.

Theory:

The aim of bleaching is to transfer colored substances (Flavone pigments) in the fibers into
uncolored substances and/or to make them removable by the washing. After bleaching the degree
of whiteness and absorbency should be enough for the intend use of the textile goods. For
achieving this mainly oxidative and rarely reductive bleaching systems are used.

Working Principle:

Sodium peroxide is the most frequently used bleaching agent for textiles. It is a chemical
compound that has mostly an oxidative effect. It is a weak acid, that has only a low bleaching
power. If alkali is added to an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, perhydroxi-anions (HOO-)
are formed. From perhydroxi-anions (HOO-), superperoxide radical (.O-O-) is formed, which is
active bleaching agent. In addition to the bleaching agent and alkali (as activator) the bath
consists always washing-off and wetting agents for improving the process and a stabilizer.
Stabilization of peroxide is important for an even bleaching effect and preventing the fiber
damage.

Working Procedure:

Prepare the liquor by following recipe

Liquor ratio 1:50

Hydrogen Peroxide 4, 8, 12, 16 g/l

Caustic soda 4 g/l (for pH 10.8)

Wetting agent 2 g/l

Sequestering agent 5 g/l

Stabilizer 10 g/l
 Time 45 min

Temperature 90 ᵒC

• Weigh dry cotton fabric & make required calculations

• Prepare the Bleaching liquor according to the given recipe
• Adjust the temperature of dye bath. & pour the Bleaching liquor into container
according to the given liquor ratio and add cotton fabric in it.
• Carry on the process for the recommended time
• Wash & neutralize the fabric
• Check the completion of the process with required testing.

Observation and Calculations:

Subjective Evaluation

• The appearance of the treated and untreated fabric should be evaluated after bleaching.
Sr. Recipe Temperature Time Whiteness SD Absorbancy SD
No. (g/l) (Rating) (sec)
1 1- 1-
2- 2-
3- 3-
4-
5-
2 1- 1-
2- 2-
3- 3-

Results:

Graphs and Charts:

Demonstrate results in charts and graphs using data. Always add Standard deviation (SD).

Conclusions:

Interpret the outcomes of your experiment according to the process, chemicals, working
conditions, and results (as presented in graphs and charts).

Questions
1) Why Bleaching is important during Wet Processing of cotton fabrics?

2) What is the role of stabilizer in Peroxide Bleaching?

3) Why NaOH is used for Bleaching of cotton fabric?

4) What are the common problems associated with peroxide bleaching?

Experiment No. 04
 Experiment No. 4

Title: To study the dyeing of 100 % cotton fabric using direct dyes by exhaust method.

Theory:

Direct dyes can be defined as water soluble dyes with the specific ability to dye cellulose fibers
without any special arrangements, that means direct. There are neither reactive groups in dye
structure nor special pretreatment or arrangements are required for dyeing of the fibers. They
have affinity for cellulose, therefore also known as substantive dyes. They have poor wet
colorfastness. Direct dyes can also dye wool, nylon.

Working Principle:

The mechanism of dyeing with direct dyes is shown in Figure 1.

Figure 1 Dyeing mechanism of direct dyes

The dye contains soluble groups that make it soluble or ionize in water. Salt is added in order to
enhance the substantivity of direct dyes and even distribution of dye molecules on the surface of
the cellulosic fabric. These dyes do not make any bond with fabric, they only retain in the fabric
due to electrostatic forces.
Working Procedure:
Prepare the solution of dye as per following recipe

Liquor ratio 1:40

Direct Dye 1,2,3,4,5 %

Common salt 40-60g/l (depending upon shade depth)

Soda ash 5-10g/l (depending upon shade depth)

• Calculate the amount of dye, chemicals & water required according to the recipe
• weigh the amount of dye & other auxiliaries to prepare the dye bath
• Add fabric to the dye bath and raise the temperature slowly up to 90°C and give 45 min
at 90°C
• Add salt and soda ash in three to four portions during temperature rise upto 90 °C
• wash the fabric with warm water and then cold rinse
• Check the completion of the process with required testing.

Observation and Calculations:

Subjective Evaluation

• The appearance of the dyed fabric must be checked for even shade and samples of
different shade depth must be compared with eachother.
Sr. Recipe Temperature Time Rubbing SD Color SD
No. (Shade Fastness Strength
%) (Rating) (K/S
Value)
1 1- 1-
2- 2-
3- 3-
4-
5-
2 1- 1-
 2- 2-
3- 3-

Results:

Graphs and Charts:

Demonstrate results in charts and graphs using data. Always add Standard deviation (SD).

Conclusions:

Interpret the outcomes of your experiment according to the process, chemicals, working
conditions, and results (as presented in graphs and charts).

Questions
1) What is substantivity of direct dyes?

2) What is the role salt and alkali in direct dyes

3) Why Fastness properties of direct dyes are poor?

4) Draw Dyeing profile of cotton fabric dyed with direct dyes

Experiment No. 05
 Experiment No. 05

Title: To study the dyeing of 100 % cotton fabric using reactive dyes by exhaust method.

Theory:

Reactive dyes can be defined as water soluble dyes with the specific ability to dye cellulose
fibers by formation of covalent bond. There are reactive groups in dye structure that make it
suitable for chemical reaction with cellulosic fabrics. The covalent bond is formed between the
dye molecules and the terminal –OH group of cellulosic fibers or in case of protein fibers
NH2 group of polyamide or wool fibers. They have affinity for cellulose, therefore also known
as substantive dyes. They have good colorfastness properties.

Working Principle:

There are two types of reactive dyes, one is called cold reactive dyes and second are called hot
reactive dyes as shown in figure 1.

Dichlorotriazine, Procion, Cold

0
reactive dyes (40 C)

Figure 1. Reactive groups of cold and hot reactive dyes

The three steps are involved in dyeing of cotton fabric with reactive dyes. First step: Substantive
absorption, like direct dyes with salt (NaCl, Na2SO4). The dye diffuse towards the interior of
fiber, where it is absorb by the cellulose chains by secondary type forces Step two: Reaction in
alkaline liquor with the cellulose and water hydroxyl groups. Step three: Elimination of the
hydrolyzed dye that is not fixed covalently to the cellulose by washing off..

Working Procedure:
Prepare the solution of dye as per following recipe

Liquor ratio 1:40

Reactive Dye 1,2,3,4,5 %

Common salt 50-100g/l (depending upon shade depth)

Sodium carbonate 10-20g/l (depending upon shade depth)

• Calculate the amount of dye, chemicals & water required according to the recipe
• weigh the amount of dye & other auxiliaries to prepare the dye bath
• Add fabric to the dye bath and raise the temperature slowly up to 90°C and give 45 min
at 90°C
• Add salt and sodium carbonate in three to four portions during temperature rise upto 90
°C
• wash the fabric with warm water and then cold rinse.
• Check the completion of the process with required testing.

Observation and Calculations:

Subjective Evaluation

• The appearance of the dyed fabric must be checked for even shade and samples of
different shade depth must be compared with eachother.
Sr. Recipe Temperature Time Rubbing SD Color SD
No. (Shade Fastness Strength
%) (Rating) (K/S
 Value)
1 1- 1-
2- 2-
3- 3-
4-
5-
2 1- 1-
2- 2-
3- 3-

Results:

Graphs and Charts:

Demonstrate results in charts and graphs using data. Always add Standard deviation (SD).

Conclusions:

Interpret the outcomes of your experiment according to the process, chemicals, working
conditions, and results (as presented in graphs and charts).

Questions
1) What is the mechanism of fixation of reactive dyes?

2) What is the role salt and alkali in reactive dyeing of cotton fabric

3) Why Fastness properties of direct dyes are good?

4) Draw Dyeing profile of cotton fabric dyed with reactive dyes

Experiment No. 06
 Experiment No. 6

Title: To study the dyeing of 100 % cotton fabric using Sulphur dyes by exhaust method.

Theory:

Sulphur dyes contain Sulphur atoms in their molecules. The fibers mostly colored with Sulphur
dyes are the natural and man-made cellulosic fibers. They are cheap, generally have good wash-
fastness and easy to apply. Sulphur dyes are predominantly black, brown, and dark shades. They
are like vat dyes highly colored and water insoluble. The range of colors covers all hue except a
true red. As a rule, the hues are dull compared with other dye classes. Sulphur dyes are insoluble
in water, in order to make them soluble, they should be reduced first then applied on fabric. once
the dye is penetrated into fabric it is again oxidized in order to retain dye in the fiber structure.

Working Principle:

The application of sulphur dyes to cellulosic materials occurs in five steps

1. Aqueous dispersion: The insoluble sulphur dye is dispersed in water.

2. Reduction: This step involves the chemical reduction of sulphur dye to produce soluble,
reduced or leuco form of the dye. This is achieved by sodium hydrosulphide, sodium
hydroxide and water. Reduction stage also alters the original color of the dye.
3. Absorption of the dye molecules by fibers: The reduced dye molecules are substantive to
the cellulosic material. To achieve adequate exhaustion an electrolyte is added to the dye
liquor and the temperature may be increased depending on the specific sulphur dye.
During this stage textile material must be kept immersed in the dye liquor to prevent the
premature oxidation of the leuco compound.
4. Reoxidation: Once dye in the polymer system of the fiber, reduced form of the dye has to
be oxidized and converted back to its original color and the insoluble form of the dye.
5. Soaping: Insoluble sulphur dye, which during previous stage may be deposit on the
surface of the textile material, has to be removed to prevent poor rub-fastness as well as a
possible change of shade due to subsequent removal of this surface deposit. Material is
boiled in presence of some suitable detergent.

Working Procedure:
Prepare the dye liquor by using the following recipe

Liquor ratio 1:40

Dye 1, 2, 3 , 4 , 5 % o.w.f
Reducing agent 10-20 g/l (depending upon shade depth)

Common salt 20-40g/l (depending upon shade depth)

NaOH 5-10g/l (depending upon shade depth)

•
Calculate the amount of dye and chemicals required according to the recipe
•
Take water to fill up the amount of liquor
•
Add fabric to the dye bath and raise the temperature slowly up to 90°C and give 45
min
• Re-oxidize the fabric at 60 °C for 15 min with following recipe
Peroxide 4ml/l
Acetic acid 1ml/l
Wash the fabric with 2g/l detergent at boiling
Check the completion of the process with required testing.

Observation and Calculations:

Subjective Evaluation

• The appearance of the dyed fabric must be checked for even shade and samples of
different shade depth must be compared with eachother.
Sr. Recipe Temperature Time Rubbing SD Color SD
No. (Shade Fastness Strength
%) (Rating) (K/S
Value)
1 1- 1-
2- 2-
3- 3-
4-
5-
2 1- 1-
2- 2-
3- 3-
Results:

Graphs and Charts:

Demonstrate results in charts and graphs using data. Always add Standard deviation (SD).

Conclusions:

Interpret the outcomes of your experiment according to the process, chemicals, working
conditions, and results (as presented in graphs and charts).

Questions
1) What is the mechanism of fixation of Suphur dyes?

2) What is the role reducing agent and alkali in Sulphur dyeing of cotton fabric

3) What is Bronzing effect?

Experiment No. 07
 Experiment No. 7

Title: To study the dyeing of 100 % cotton fabric using VAT dyes by exhaust method.

Theory:

Vat dyes are based on indigo and anthraquinone. The excellent fastness properties of textile
material colored with vat dyes is attributed in part to the very large size of the vat dye molecule
and in part to its aqueous insolubility. In general, vat dyes based on anthraquinone have better
fastness properties than the vat dyes derived from indigo.

Working Principle:

The application of vat dyes to cellulosic materials occurs in five steps

6. Aqueous dispersion: The insoluble vat dye is dispersed in water.

7. Reduction: This step involves the chemical reduction of vat dye to produce soluble,
reduced or leuco form of the dye. This is achieved by sodium hydrosulphite, sodium
hydroxide and water. Reduction stage also alters the original color of the dye.
8. Absorption of the dye molecules by fibers: The reduced dye molecules are substantive to
the cellulosic material. To achieve adequate exhaustion an electrolyte is added to the dye
liquor and the temperature may be increased depending on the specific vat dye. During
this stage textile material must be kept immersed in the dye liquor to prevent the
premature oxidation of the leuco compound.
9. Reoxidation: Once dye in the polymer system of the fiber, reduced form of the dye has to
be oxidized and converted back to its original color and the insoluble form of the dye.
10. Soaping: Insoluble vat dye, which during previous stage may be deposit on the surface of
the textile material, has to be removed to prevent poor rub-fastness as well as a possible
change of shade due to subsequent removal of this surface deposit. Material is boiled in
presence of some suitable detergent.

Working Procedure:
Prepare the dye liquor by using the following recipe

Liquor ratio 1:40

Vat Dye 1, 2, 3 , 4 , 5 % o.w.f

Reducing agent 10-20 g/l (depending upon shade depth)

Common salt 20-40g/l (depending upon shade depth)

NaOH 5-10g/l (depending upon shade depth)

•
Calculate the amount of dye and chemicals required according to the recipe
•
Take water to fill up the amount of liquor
•
Add fabric to the dye bath and raise the temperature slowly up to 90°C and give 45
min
• Re-oxidize the fabric at 60 °C for 15 min with following recipe
Peroxide 4ml/l
Acetic acid 1ml/l
Wash the fabric with 2g/l detergent at boiling
Check the completion of the process with required testing.

Observation and Calculations:

Subjective Evaluation

• The appearance of the dyed fabric must be checked for even shade and samples of
different shade depth must be compared with eachother.
Sr. Recipe Temperature Time Rubbing SD Color SD
No. (Shade Fastness Strength
%) (Rating) (K/S
Value)
1 1- 1-
2- 2-
3- 3-
4-
5-
2 1- 1-
2- 2-
3- 3-

Results:

Graphs and Charts:

Demonstrate results in charts and graphs using data. Always add Standard deviation (SD).

Conclusions:

Interpret the outcomes of your experiment according to the process, chemicals, working
conditions, and results (as presented in graphs and charts).

Questions
1) What is the mechanism of fixation of VAT dyes?

2) What is the role reducing agent and alkali in VAT dyeing of cotton fabric

3) What are the problems associated with vat Dyeing of cotton fabric?
Experiment No. 08
 Experiment No. 8

Title: To study the dyeing of 100 % polyester fabric using Disperse dyes by High Temperature
(HT) method.

Theory:

Disperse dyes are used to dye synthetic as well as modified fibers such as polyester and cellulose
acetate, because of their hydrophobic nature. Disperse dyes are traditionally non-ionic chemicals
with sparing solubility in water. They have better substantivity for hydrophobic fibers such as
polyester, nylon and acetate. For the sake of efficient diffusion into textiles, the particles of
disperse dyes should be as fine as possible. Disperse dyes are often substituted azo,
anthraquinone or diphenylamine compounds which are non-ionic and contain no water
solubilizing groups.

Working Principle:

Polyester fibers are extremely crystalline and hydrophobic, and it is difficult to achieve even
lighter shade at boil. In order to dye polyester fibers high temperature dyeing techniques is used.
Dispersing agent is added to water with dye to form a aqueous dispersion. The insolubility of the
disperse dyes enables them to leave the dye liquor as they are more substantive to the organic
fiber. Heating dye liquor increases the energy of the dye molecules and accelerate the dyeing.
Heating swells the fiber to some extent and assist the dye to penetrate the fiber polymer system
resulting in dye being located in the amorphous regions of the fiber. Once the dye is in polymer
system, the dye molecules are held by hydrogen bonds and van der Waals forces.

Working Procedure:
Prepare the dispersion of dye in water as per following recipe

Liquor ratio 1:40

Disperse Dye 2, 4 %

Dispersing agent 5 g/l

Acetic Acid pH 5-5.5

• Calculate the amount of dye and chemicals required according to the recipe
• Setup the High temperature dyeing machine.
• Add fabric to the dye bath and raise the temperature slowly up to 130°C and give 45 min
• wash the fabric with 1-2g/l detergent & 2 g/l reducing agent at boiling
• Check the completion of the process with required testing.

Observation and Calculations:

Subjective Evaluation

• The appearance of the dyed fabric must be checked for even shade and samples of
different shade depth must be compared with each other.
Sr. Recipe Temperature Time Rubbing SD Color SD
No. (Shade Fastness Strength
%) (Rating) (K/S
Value)
1 1- 1-
2- 2-
3- 3-
4-
5-
2 1- 1-
2- 2-
3- 3-

Results:

Graphs and Charts:

Demonstrate results in charts and graphs using data. Always add Standard deviation (SD).

Conclusions:

Interpret the outcomes of your experiment according to the process, chemicals, working
conditions, and results (as presented in graphs and charts).
Questions
1) What is the mechanism of fixation of disperse dyes?

2) Why Thermosol Machine is used for continuous dyeing of polyester fabric?

3) How Polyester fabric can be dyed at 100 ᵒC.

4) What are the problems associated with high temperature dyeing of polyester?
Experiment No. 09
 Experiment No. 9

Title: To study the Printing of 100 % cotton fabric using pigments on Flat Bed Printing
Machine.

Theory:

Working Principle:

Working Procedure:
Prepare the pigment print paste as per following recipe

Pigment 5, 10, 15, 20 g/kg

Synthetic Thickener 30 g/kg

Binder 50~200 g/kg (depending upon shade depth)

Ammonia liquor 10 g/kg (pH 8.5)

• Calculate the amount of chemicals & auxiliaries required according to the recipe
• Take half quantity of water & add Thickener along with liquour ammonia with
continuous stirring
• Fill up the amount of water to get a total of one kg of paste.
• Stir the paste for 25 minutes to get a homogenous print paste
• Take required amount of print paste and add binder and Pigment in it.
• Take the fabric sample which is to be printed & stick it to the blanket of flat-bed screen
printing machine with an adhesive (PVA)
• Place the screen & print the sample
• Dry the printed sample in dryer
• Cure the printed fabric sample at 150 ºC for 5minutes
• Check the completion of the process with required testing.

Observation and Calculations:

Subjective Evaluation

• The appearance of the dyed fabric must be checked for even shade and samples of
different shade depth must be compared with each other.
Sr. Recipe Temperature Time Rubbing SD Color SD
No. (Shade Fastness Strength
%) (Rating) (K/S
Value)
1 1- 1-
2- 2-
3- 3-
4-
5-
2 1- 1-
2- 2-
3- 3-

Results:

Graphs and Charts:

Demonstrate results in charts and graphs using data. Always add Standard deviation (SD).

Conclusions:

Interpret the outcomes of your experiment according to the process, chemicals, working
conditions, and results (as presented in graphs and charts).

Questions
1) What is the mechanism of fixation of Pigments on Fabrics?

2) What is difference between pigments and dyes?

3) What is role of binder and thickener in pigment printing.

4) What are the problems associated with pigment printing of fabric?

Experiment No. 10
 Experiment No. 10

Title: To study the Printing of 100 % cotton fabric using Reactive dyes on Flat Bed Printing
Machine.

Theory:

Working Principle:

Working Procedure:
Prepare the Reactive print paste as per following recipe

Reactive Dye 10, 20, 30, 40 g/kg

Sodium alginate (Thickener) 30 g/kg

Urea 20-50 g/kg (depending upon shade depth)

Sodium bicarbonate 10-20 g/kg

• Calculate the amount of chemicals & auxiliaries required according to the recipe
• Take half quantity of water & add Thickener with continuous stirring
• Fill up the amount of water to get a total of one kg of paste.
• Stir the paste for 25 minutes to get a homogenous print paste
• Take required amount of print paste and add Dye, Urea and Sodium Bicarbonate in it.
• Take the fabric sample which is to be printed & stick it to the blanket of flat-bed screen
printing machine with an adhesive (PVA)
• Place the screen & print the sample
• Dry the printed sample in dryer
• Steam the printed fabric sample for 8 minutes
• Check the completion of the process with required testing.

Observation and Calculations:

Subjective Evaluation

• The appearance of the dyed fabric must be checked for even shade and samples of
different shade depth must be compared with each other.
Sr. Recipe Temperature Time Rubbing SD Color SD
No. (Shade Fastness Strength
 %) (Rating) (K/S
Value)
1 1- 1-
2- 2-
3- 3-
4-
5-
2 1- 1-
2- 2-
3- 3-

Results:

Graphs and Charts:

Demonstrate results in charts and graphs using data. Always add Standard deviation (SD).

Conclusions:

Interpret the outcomes of your experiment according to the process, chemicals, working
conditions, and results (as presented in graphs and charts).

Questions
1) What is the mechanism of fixation of Reactive dyes on Fabrics?

2) Why Printed fabrics are steamed after reactive printing?

3) What is role of Urea and Sodium Bicarbonate in Reactive printing.

4) What are the problems associated with reactive dye printing of fabric?
Experiment No. 11
 Experiment No. 11

Title: To study the effect of various concentrations of hydrocarbon-based cationic softener on

tear, and hand feel of 100% cotton fabric

Theory:

Softener is a finishing agent that, when applied to the textile material, improves its handle giving
pleasing touch. Generally, the softening agents applied are lubricating agents, facilitating the
fiber sliding within the fabric structure, thus granting easier deformation and creasing. Softeners
can be classified as surfactants, consisting of both hydrophobic and hydrophilic parts. Softeners
can be classified using various methods, and ionic characterization (cationic, anionic, and non-
ionic) is mainly preferred. In textile finishing, various softeners are available, each with its
advantages and disadvantages. However, hydrocarbon-based softeners are the preferred choice
when a soft, pliable, and silk-like hand is the target. Because of the low add-on, softness is
achieved without a greasy feel. They are usually quaternary ammonium salts, amino-esters, and
amino-amides.

Working Principle:

Cationic softeners bind by electrostatic attraction to the negatively charged groups on the surface
of the fibers and neutralize their charge. The long aliphatic chains then line up towards the
outside of the fiber, imparting lubricity depending upon the charge on the softener. For example,
if cationic softeners are applied, the positively charged part will attach to the cotton fabric to
properly arrange molecules, as suggested in Figure 1. They are recommended for all fiber types
and can be applied with the exhaustion process in acid environments (pH 4-5).

The fabric's final properties depend on the type, chemistry, add-on, and finishing process
parameters. The hand feel, tear, and tensile properties of the treated fabrics change significantly
with the application of these cationic softeners. The illustration of the cationic softener with the
fabric is given in Figure 1. In this experiment, students will determine the change in these
attributes.
 Fig. 1: Application of softener on cotton fabric

Working Procedure:

1- Make the recipe according to the instructions

2- Adjust the pH of the finishing recipe (4-5)
3- Clean the padding machine
4- Pad the sample with the recipe at desired pickup
5- Dry and cure the fabric
Observations& Calculations:

Subjective Evaluation

• The hand feel of the treated and untreated fabric should be evaluated after the application
of the softener

Sr. Recipe pH Drying/Curing Pick Tear SD Softness SD

No. (g/l) Temperature Up Strength
(%)
1 1- 1-
2- 2-
3- 3-
4-
5-
6-
7-
8-
9-
10-
2 1- 1-
2- 2-
3- 3-

Results:

Graphs and Charts:

Demonstrate results in charts and graphs using data. Always add Standard deviation (SD).

Conclusions:

Interpret the outcomes of your experiment according to the process, chemicals, working
conditions, and results (as presented in graphs and charts)

Questions

• How does the application of softener affect the hand feel of the fabric?

• How does the tear strength change with the application of softener?
• What is the effect of softener on the coefficient of friction?

• What is the effect of softener on the hydrophilicity of the treated fabric?