Textile Magazine
Textile Magazine
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TEXTILE MAGAZINE
Contents
18 22 28
TECHNICAL TEXTILES & MMF ITEMA India ITME Virtual Buyer Seller
to receive over Rs. 10000 Cr. strengthens presence in Meet, a global platform to bring back
package under PLI Scheme Egypt with new order momentum in the textile industry
INDUSTRY NEWS
24 ITF launches #IndiaforSure for sharing SURE stories
from the Indian textile industry
36 Bangladesh Textile & RMG Sectors receive
US $ 256 mn from global Green Climate Fund
WEAVING
42 Redesigning our future - The new WeftMaster
SFB from LOEPFE
46 LAMIFLEX growing their base in the Indian market
38
SUSTAINABILITY
26 U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol joins the Cotton 2040’s
platform and sustainability guide
MATEX
44 SAFETY AND SUSTAINABILITY: Strategy to drive suc-
leads the way to make industries
cess in post Covid scenario for the textile industry more independent
TEXTILE MAGAZINE
Contents
46 54 66
LAMIFLEX Lot Size 1 - TRADITION MEETS INNOVATION:
growing their base in The wish to make it right MAHLO celebrates
the Indian market for all customers 75th Anniversary
SUSTAINABILITY
58 Accolades for Hayleys’ Waste Water Treatment
Process
108 Cables weighing tons guided by quickly mounted
igus energy chain
GLOBAL EXPANSION
32 ELGi North America opens new headquarters
SPINNING
34 Strategic partnership between Rieter and
WW Systems
110 Spin high-quality ring yarns economically and flexibly
TECHNICAL TEXTILES
50 Strategic Relocation of AVGOL’s SMMS and Additional
Meltblown Lines to India
70
APPOINTMENT
KPR MILL
52 The LYCRA Company appoints Rishi Suri as South Asia An Iconic Success Story
TEXTILE MAGAZINE
Contents
Export Market Business Development Director
MAKE IN INDIA
60 Growing customer preference for KARL MAYER’s ISOWARP
Machines to be Made in India
TECHNOLOGY
64 Lenzing creates unprecedented supply chain traceability
114 Grundfos’ digital solutions supporting Textile Industry
102 APROL System from B & R enables factories to implement
Technical Textiles
& MMF
to receive over
Rs. 10000 Cr. package
under PLI Scheme
A big step in making India ‘AatmaNirbhar’ or self-reliant has come in the form of
Production-Linked Incentive Scheme (PLI) to 10 sunrise and labour-intensive sectors, in-
cluding the technical textiles and man-made fibre segments. The Union Cabinet under
Prime Minister Narendra Modi has approved to introduce the Scheme triggering a
positive market sentiment.
The announcement has at its core the idea to augment global exports. In the MMF segment, India’s share is low when
India’s manufacturing capabilities and exports. The Scheme compared to the global consumption pattern.
has put away Rs. 1.45 tn for the 10 ‘champion’ sectors incen- The PLI Scheme aims to fortify the two textile segments
tivizing them to attract investments, encourage domestic to pull investments in cutting-edge technology, enhance
manufacturing, pave the way for companies to become part efficiency, and create economies of scale besides enabling
of the global supply chain, and the biggest of all – to generate them to get on par with global competition.
employment opportunities. The Scheme facilitates the AatmaNirbhar Bharat Abhi-
Big Boost to Technical Textiles & MMF Segments yan vision to promote an efficient, equitable and resilient
The technical textiles and Man-Made Fibre (MMF) seg- manufacturing sector in the country. Growth in production
ments have received the financial outlay of Rs. 10683 cr for and exports of industrial goods will greatly expose the Indian
over a 5-year period. It will be implemented by the Ministry of industry to foreign competition and ideas, which will help in
Textiles within the overall financial limit prescribed. The final improving its capabilities to innovate further. It holds true for
proposals of the PLI will be appraised by the Expenditure the textile industry too.
Finance Committee (EFC). According to the official statement, promotion of the
The Indian textile industry is one of the world’s larg- manufacturing sector and creation of a conducive manu-
est producers of textiles and apparel. Owing to the COVID facturing ecosystem will not only enable integration with
times and necessities, India has become the second largest global supply chains but also establish backward linkages
manufacturer of PPE in the world. The domestic textiles with the MSME sector in the country. It will lead to overall
and apparel segments contribute 2% to India’s GDP, bring in growth in the economy and create huge employment op-
12% of export earnings and has approximately 5% share of portunities.
CITI
CITI Chairman T Rajkumar said, “PLI scheme is extended for 10 key specific sectors, of
which Textile is one of the sectors and has been allocated Rs 10,683 crore of the total
estimated outlay of Rs. 1.46 lakh crore, mainly for MMF and technical textile segment”.
He further said, “the objective of the scheme is to promote building of new facilities and
attract investment in the MMF sector under Greenfield and Brownfield investments”.
CITI Chairman said, “the Focused PLI Scheme has come at an appropriate time when
India’s GDP is on a recovering mode and a V shaped recovery is expected in many of the
sectors to bring the economy back on recovery track”.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------
SIMA
Mr. Ashwin Chandran, Chairman, The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) stated that
though India could become a major player in cotton textiles and exports, India has been
lagging behind in the MMF textile trade due to expensive raw material and high tariff
barriers apart from cheaper imports from neighbouring countries.
Mr. Ashwin also mentioned, “The country has proved its capability by becoming the
second largest manufacturer of PPE within a period of two months and enable the
country to protect the people of the Nation and the world from the COVID-19 pandemic.
Under these circumstances, the scheme would greatly benefit the industry to attract
huge investments and create jobs of millions of people. Around 40 HS lines in MMF gar-
ments and 10 HS lines in technical textiles account around US $ 180 billion global trade
and therefore, the scheme would encourage the industry to make investment in the manufacturing of these high
value added products.”
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TEA
Shri. Raja. M. Shanmugham welcomed the subsidy support from Central Government
for two years in respect of new eligible employees engaged on or after 01.10.2020 and
crediting upfront in Aadhaar seeded EPFO Account (UAN) of eligible new employee,
contribution of both Employer and Employees, totaling 24% of wages in cases where
establishments are employing up to 1000 employees and 12% of EPF wages in the case
of employment provided more than 1000 employees. He noted that this will be largely
helpful to Tirupur Knitwear exporting units as more employment will be provided by
them in the coming days.
Shri. Raja. M. Shanmugham appreciated for extension of the existing Emergency Credit
Line Guarantee Scheme (ECLGS 1.0) till 31st March 2021 and also launching of ECLGS 2.0
benefitting to Standard Maintenance Account 0 (SMA 0) as on 29th February 2020, with credit outstanding of above
Rs. 50 crore and up to Rs. 500 Crore as on 29.2.2020.
Shri. Raja. M. Shanmugham welcomed the Production-Linked Incentives scheme and was hopeful that Tirupur
knitwear exporting units would utilize this opportunity, make investment, increase exports and provide more employ-
ment. w
The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol has been invited to join guide,” said Dr. Gary Adams, president of the U.S. Cot-
Cotton 2040. Convened by sustainability non-profit Forum ton Trust Protocol. “The Trust Protocol is a unique tool for
for the Future, the Cotton 2040 coalition is a unique part- brands and retailers, and we will continue to partner with
nership that brings together representatives from standards, them in their efforts to demonstrate progress toward sus-
producers, brands and retailers, and existing industry initia- tainability goals.”
tives specifically to build on and accelerate collective action “The apparel sector is under huge pressure to reduce its
to scale up and overcome barriers to sustainable cotton social and environmental impact, and increasing demand
uptake across multiple standards. for more sustainable fibres is key to securing future supply.
The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol is a new system for The CottonUP guide addresses a long-standing need in the
responsibly-grown cotton that provides annual data for six industry for clarity around cotton sourcing options, provid-
areas of sustainability aligned with the U.N. Sustainability ing brands and retailers with the resources to help them go
Goals. This year-over-year data, available for the first time, further, faster. It can be a key enabler for systemic change
allows brands and retailers to better measure progress in the industry, and could be a blueprint for other com-
towards meeting sustainability commitments. modities in the future,” said Sally Uren, CEO at Forum for
The Trust Protocol also will be included in Cotton 2040’s the Future. “’We’re happy to include the Trust Protocol as a
CottonUP guide, a toolkit to help sourcing directors make new sustainability standard.”
sustainable decisions. The CottonUP guide to sourcing Cotton 2040’s interactive CottonUp guide recognizes the
sustainable cotton seeks to address one of the main bar- U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol as a sustainable cotton standard
riers for companies looking to start sourcing or increase alongside BCI, CmiA, Fairtrade, myBMP, Organic and re-
the amount of sustainable cotton they source: the time and cycled cotton. The CottonUp toolkit is a compressive guide
resource required to research and implement the most to help stakeholders within the cotton sector to navigate
appropriate sourcing approach for their organisation’s sus- the complexity, and better understand the major sustain-
tainability priorities. The guide highlights the business case able cotton standards they could adopt, how they work,
and main sourcing options for sustainable cotton, provides and select the best options for their business. Facilitated by
guidance on creating a sourcing strategy and on working sustainability non-profit Forum for the Future, with fund-
with suppliers, and shares case studies from companies ing support from the Laudes Foundation, the Cotton 2040
that have already navigated the complex challenges of envisages a sustainable global cotton industry which is
sourcing more sustainable cotton. resilient in a changing climate; uses business models that
“We are pleased to see the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol support sustainable production and livelihoods, and where
recognized by Cotton 2040 and listed on their CottonUp sustainably-produced cotton is the norm. w
textile sector. A good cotton crop for the season combined convenient time shall help everybody to be focused during
with good markets for knits and woven goods have sprung discussion and obtain optimum utilization of personal log-
growth to the spinning industry with a generally upward in time. “
market trend. The whole textile chain has seen a positive Going into the key reasons for textile companies to ex-
trend month after month post lockdown,” he points out. hibit their products in the meet and for industry profession-
Restrictions on travel and personal meetings with clients, als to visit the virtual show, the Chairman of the India ITME
has brought with it a unique set of challenges to textile Society pointed out that a time when live exhibitions cannot
companies, with respect to connecting with its customers. be conducted due to the logistical restrictions in place, this
However, Mr.Harishankar felt that companies have found out virtual platform is a great opportunity for companies to
ways to stay connected. “Globally, companies have learnt showcase their latest innovations and network virtually with
to work efficiently through online meetings and Confer- prospective clients across the globe.
ence calls and this is much the same for the textile / textile “There has never been a moment in time where technol-
machinery field. The pandemic has certainly taught us all ogy is as relevant simply because we’ve learnt to adapt and
the fine art of “time management” and the ability to utilise simplify the “networking” protocol,” Mr.Harishankar says.
technology effectively. Strict Covid protocol is being followed Learning initiatives
in the manufacturing arena by following the local state and Elaborating on how the India ITME Society adapted its
district jurisdiction guidelines. Sales or service calls by ma- activities post March lockdown period to fulfil its objec-
chinery/component manufacturers are also possible while tives and goals for the year, Mr.Harishankar reveals:” It is
ensuring strict social distancing guidelines. While it is still not my great satisfaction to share with readers that India ITME
possible to visit international clients face to face due to travel Society did not falter in its responsibilities even during the
restrictions, but, that’s where technology has really helped fill lockdown. Our secretariat adapted fast and team worked
the void,” he says on a positive note. from home. We conducted joint seminar with ITC on
AI based technology Business opportunity in Africa in the month of June 2020.
The buyer seller meet is for 2 days, with one day of Besides, under “Nurture the future” program ITME Society
technical seminar. The BSM will have 278 exhibitors from supported education and students by coordinating intern-
18 countries. So far visitor registrations have been received ship and placement for students with Industry. This activity
from 31 countries. The technical seminar is expecting an was coordinated successfully in May 2020 when students
audience of 1000+ for morning and afternoon session. were facing tough time in getting internship and place-
Both the programs are offered fully complementary by ment due to lockdown. ITME Society succeeded in getting
India ITME Society with the intent of extending support to international internship for students of VJTI providing an
industry in this year of the Covid crisis. opportunity for 3 students to work with International Trade
“We hope the virtual BSM event shall provide the much Centre-UN, Africa. “
needed platform for industry colleagues, business associ- “This activity was successful due to the much appreci-
ates, suppliers and customers to connect and interact creat- ated cooperation from Industry members who came
ing a stimulant and motivation for the upcoming new year,” together with goodwill and magnanimity to support our
Mr.Harishankar says, before adding :” We also made an next generation. The industry leaders and companies
effort to bring to table most recent topics of interest for which participated in this exercise are Mr. Aras & Mr Navin
technical lecture and panel discussion allowing maximum Agarwal - A.T.E, Mr Updeep Singh- Sutlej Textile Industries,
industry members to catch up on latest information since Mr. Harishankar-LCC, Mr Ketan Shanghai- Laxmi looms,
this year many training programs and workshops could not Mr. Ashok Juneja-TAI, Mr. Dipesh Shah- GIFT city, Dr.
be held. Sustainability is going to be key for growth in busi- Rajat Srivastava-EEPC, Mr. N.K.Brahmachari-Amritlakshmi
ness in coming years and efficient manufacturing strategies Machine works, Mr. Vikas Saran- Saurer Textile Solution,
while catering to varied customers is another brain storm- Mr. Avinash Mayekar- Suvin Advisors, Mr. Yogendra Vora-
ing topic for all textile manufacturers. “ Tecogis, Mr. Nitin Poddar- J. Sagar Associates, Ms. Pradnya
For the first time, India ITME is using AI based technology Ponkshe- MCCIA, Ms. Carolin Averback-ITC, Kenya. Apart
to help exhibitors and visitors connect on a virtual platform. from coordinating the internship drive, India ITME Society
Explaining how this works, Mr.Harishankar mentions:” AI also accepted two VJTI students for internship and intend
match making was offered to ITME BSM participants to to continue the tradition in future as well,” he said while
ensure convenience and efficient virtual event and maxi- highlighting some of the initiatives of the society during the
mum exposure to every participant within his/her log-in recent past.
time frame. In a virtual event, where members are connect- Mr. Harishankar felt that for the robust future of the
ing over from homes or workplace, a well informed and textile industry, strong education, exposure to latest technol-
planned itinerary shall increase efficiency of interactions as ogy, and learning experience are all absolute necessity. He
well reduce online fatigue. What we offer participants are, added that through its various events and programs, the
meeting recommendations based on their profile, busi- India ITME Society shall continue to diligently execute its re-
ness interest and objective of attending ITME BSM using AI sponsibilities in supporting all round growth and success of
based on the information from registration form submit- textile and textile engineering industry of our great nation in
ted by them. A matched itinerary with option to select your all possible ways. w
The Rieter Group has concluded a license agreement that are being prepared for the spinning process. In this
way, standardized quality yarn can be produced efficiently
with WW systems on November 5, 2020 and will inte- in the spinning process. From the arrival of the bales in
grate the Brazilian company’s promising product into the warehouse to their use in the blowroom line, “OptCot-
ton” manages the entire blending process with no need for
its digital spinning suite ESSENTIAL. “OptCotton”from categorization. This results in increased efficiency in storage
WW System offers the only software system worldwide and logistics, as well as machine performance.
Integration into the digital spinning suite ESSENTIAL
that enables an even blend of cotton for the spinning By integrating this solution, Rieter strengthens its digital
process. With this cooperation, Rieter is taking an spinning suite ESSENTIAL. Access to bale-related fiber data
and raw material information opens up new possibilities
important step forward in implementing its digital for controlling the spinning mill. In combination with the
strategy and offering its customers further added existing modules ESSENTIALbasic, ESSENTIALmonitor, ES-
SENTIALmaintain and ESSENTIALpredict, this optimizes the
value in yarn production. entire spinning process and raises digital intelligence to a
Unlike any other system in the market today, “OptCot- new level.
ton” eliminates variations in quality between cotton blends w
MATEX
leads the way to make industries
more independent
M atex is a company
that deals in a
wide array of textile and
machinery solutions for
clients. The company
acts as a bridge between
international resources
and Indian clients. In
this interview, Raghav
Agarwalla, Managing
Director, Matex, talks
about the philosophy
behind the formation of
the company, his plans,
and more
lot of scope in this industry to evolve, modify and change. These are all Italian brands along with which there is a
Besides, for all the principal companies, Matex has never Turkish partner, Ides Makina, another contributor in the
had a focus on sales only. Instead, it is a healthy combi- soft flow dyeing sector. The top Indian clients of Matex in
nation of sales along with all the after-sales services. India include Shahi Exports, Vardhaman Group, Siyaram
Moreover, Matex believes in maintaining a long-term Silk Mills, Trident Textiles, LNJ Group, Pee Vee Textiles,
relationship with all its clients. In this context, Agarwalla Nahar and Oswal, Alok Industries and Himatsingka Seide
says, “The textile industry is a sector where there is no Ltd., amongst several others. Altogether, including the
one-time order. You have to connect with the customer accessories, 25-30 companies are part of the business
for long periods because they would come back to you portfolio of Matex. In the course of the interview, Agar-
for service.” And the fact that some machines run all the walla mentions that dealing in yarns or garments is still
time makes them prone to technical issues at times. These not a part of their portfolio. However, there are plans to
are times when the customer requires a certain level of diversify in the future.
expertise and providing after-sales service is, therefore, Achievements and Future Goals
a primary part of the portfolio of Matex. Toyota’s air-jet As Agarwalla puts it, “For us more than getting an
looms are manufactured 100% in Japan, which is also award is when a principal wants to stick with you for four
one of the primary long-term associates of Matex. decades. It means that there is something right about the
A few of the other principals of the company include company and the philosophy which we follow. Along with
Todo Seisakusho (Japan) that deals in knotting machine, that, customers rewarding us with repeat orders what we
leasing machine and material handling equipment. strive for.” According to him, happy clients and goodwill is
Another Japan-based giant that has a tie-up with Matex the reward that Matex works for. When it comes to plans,
is Zuiko. This company is into manufacturing machines apart from participating in the ITME exhibition in Decem-
for producing sanitary napkins, baby and adult diapers ber 2021, Matex is planning to expand its base across
and face masks. Last but not least, there is Shima Sheiki different regions of India.
(Japan) for the fantastic Apex-T design system to support Agarwalla is proud that Matex is a part of the ‘Make in
the customers’ fabric designing department as well as the India’ movement and is setting examples for several other
weaving department in tandem. In Europe, the company’s organisations. His vision for the company is to be the first
principals include Cubotex for hank, yarn, fibre, tow, top choice of clients in the field of textile machinery and tech-
and pantyhose dyeing; Alea for hot air dryers suitable nology in the coming five years. Besides, diversifying in
for fibre, tow and hanks; Testa for packing automation the existing sectors is, of course, a priority, and Agarwalla
and inspection; and Macchine Caru for textile finishing believes that there is a lot of potential in the country for
systems. growth and development. w
“We have been working in this field for over 40 years and With Lamiflex based in North Italy, and in particular in
we feature the widest range of manufacturing technologies the province of Bergamo which was highly affected by the
available on the market. We guarantee our customers the corona virus outbreak, the company had to close for some
best quality thanks to the highest standards of ‘Made in weeks as required by the Italian government in order to
Italy’ products,” Carrara states. prevent the virus from spreading further. “When we had
“And thanks to our global network of agents and the authorisation to restart our activities we implemented
distributors we can satisfy customers in any corner of the the same stringent safety protocols introduced within all
world. Moreover, the experience gained by working in such the Itema Group companies with the aim of protecting the
diverse markets is a key advantage to develop tailor-made health of our employees and their families. Despite the dif-
solutions according to our customers’ needs. Beside this, ficult situation across Europe, we attracted good response
the internalisation of the production processes and re- from many of its countries,” Carrara informs.
search and development, along with a globally widespread “Unluckily, the second wave is still hitting hard many
network of distributors, makes it possible to have short lead of our strategic markets, but we are working to find new
time to satisfy every request in a fast and reliable way,” he ways to reach our customers and to make them feel sup-
adds. Carrara envisions huge scope of growth in the Indian ported even if we cannot be physically close to them. We
market on account of the fact that an increasing number of want them to be sure that we are always ready to respond
Indian mills are investing in new factories. Records sug- to their needs,” he adds. Carrara strongly hopes that the
gest great sales of high-speed looms such as the bestseller second half of 2021 will be characterised by an improve-
rapier machine from Itema – R9500 – and its second ment in the overall global situation and that the company
generation – R9500-2. will emerge stronger and with new competence developed
Post Pandemic Possibilities of Growth in managing this unpredictable and never-seen-before
Lamiflex participated in ITMA 2019 Textile and Gar- situation.
ment Technology Exhibition. The exhibition was a success “Regarding the Indian market, we see a very big oppor-
and generated leads and important new contacts for the tunity. We need to develop fresh approaches and strategies
company thanks also to the synergies with Itema Group. to adapt to the new scenario derived from the pandemic.
At the trade fair, Lamiflex launched with Itema Group the We will do all the needful to continue to support the growth
iBOOSTER. Developed for weavers who want to work of Indian textile sector and to always keep as a priority
extremely fast, the package literally boosts a machine’s the requirements of our customers in India as well as all
performance without compromising reliability. Thanks to a over the world,” he adds. And while textile components
deep material study made by Itemalab® in close coopera- for rapier weaving machinery will continue to be a priority,
tion with Lamiflex, Itema Group and Lamiflex succeeded Carrara says that other areas and sectors will be explored
in developing new reinforced tapes, sprocket wheels and too, including composite solutions for medical applications
micro smart coolers to ensure extended lifetime. and aerospace. w
On 3rd December, a day prior to BSM, India ITME is textile technology”. He is also active in numerous commit-
organising a Virtual Technical Seminar which is expected tees and as an expert. He is an Adjunct Prof at Clemson
to be attended by over 1000 industry professionals from University in South Carolina, USA. He is the author of over
across the world. As part of the technical seminar, Prof. Dr 260 specialist articles. Since 2020 he has been active as a
-Ing. Yves-Simon Gloy will be conducting the Knowledge senior consultant for Gherzi van Delden GmbH, Chemnitz
Session on the topic “Lot Size 1 – The Wish to Make It Right and as an entrepreneur is dedicated to the topic of Produc-
for All Customers”. tion on Demand in Berlin.
Prof. Gloy studied mechanical engineering with a In an exclusive chat, Prof. Gloy spoke in detail about how
specialization in textile mechanical engineering at RWTH changing customer preferences and the relevance of the
Aachen, France and Canada. After receiving his diploma, Lot Size 1 approach for the textile industry.
he did his doctorate at the RWTH Aachen Institute for Here are the edited excerpts.
Textile Technology on the subject of “Self-optimization in Beginning the interaction by offering an overview of
the weaving process”. Then he did research as a post-doc the topic and how it impacts the textile industry, Prof Gloy
at the institute. Most recently, he was a member of the ITA’s explains:” In order to produce textiles economically and
executive board, where he heads the textile machinery / successfully, modern and highly efficient means of produc-
production technology division. During 2018-2019 Prof. tion are usually used. Air jet looms z. For example, rattle
Gloy worked as Managing Scientific Director at the Saxon easily at 1400 rpm in continuous operation. These means
Textile Research Institute (STFI) in Chemnitz. At the RWTH of production along the textile chain function in the sense
Aachen, he habilitated in 2019 on the topic “Industry 4.0 in of an economies of scale. A planning-oriented approach is
often used as a basis: central- “The consumer pays for your products, his demand mentions:” In my opinion, it
ized knowledge manage- is above all consumer goods,
is driving your business. It was never a bad idea to
ment and a strong use of i.e. clothing, shoes, accesso-
resources. It’s about synchro- put the customer first. Besides that, a fundamental ries, and home textiles, which
nized processes, standardized understanding of textile production technologies are affected. In the field of
products and high-frequency and ways for Lot 1 production will for sure help the technical textiles, it is about
production.” students to give answers to upcoming question in the fulfilment of technical
“Lot size 1 runs counter to functionalities and less about
textile production. The capability to design and evalu-
this approach. The means of the satisfaction of needs for
production should be able ate technologies will help a lot. And I always advise be individuality. This area is also
to produce an individualized critical! Asks for! Check the premise! And then bring more strongly shaped and
product every time. A lot of a better answer in the synthesis specified by standards.”
article changes and set-up – Prof. Dr.-Ing. Yves-Simon Gloy “But exciting things are
times are associated with this. happening in the field of
Production scientists speak of an economies of scope. It’s special machine construction. Another exciting area is
about aspects like one price flow, flexibility, dynamic and medical technology, where textiles enable customer-specific
more complex product creation processes. This is often treatments. The trends described can already be observed
based on a value orientation approach: decentralized strongly in high-wage countries, but are by no means lim-
near-process decision making, elimination of waste, stand- ited to these countries,” he adds.
ardized methods,” he adds. Sharing his views on whether this approach will result in
“Both approaches are justified and offer advantages reduced need for mass production of textiles and garments
and disadvantages. It will be interesting to overcome this and a move into more customer specific products, Prof.
polylemma in the production of textiles and to manufacture Gloy observed that many philosophies will certainly prevail
them in batch size 1 using mass production methods. So, on the market, in the extremes and in all the gradations in
this promises to combine the advantages of the approach- between.
es.” “So, there will always be textiles that are mass-produced
Lot Size 1 is the complete opposite of mass production. and which are strong and tailored to individual needs. Cer-
Does Prof. Gloy think the change is already taking place? tainly, there will be solutions which reduce the polylemma
Answering in the affirmative he says:” Yes, it is already tak- described above, but not which can resolve it forever. Much
ing place. Companies are experimenting with the best way can be successful in the market as long as it is based on a
to resolve this polylemma. E.g. adidas with this approach valid business model,” he says indicating the possibilities.
has Storefactory - knit for you or MyZXFLux. Recently H&M Prof. Gloy feels that it is important for textile engineering
jumped on this concept and is experimenting with individu- students who are looking to enter the world of textiles to
al denim production.” understand and estimate consumer preference.
“All these implementations are accompanied by adapta- “The consumer pays for your products, his demand is
tions to the means of production in an evolutionary way. driving your business. It was never a bad idea to put the
In production planning, product design and customer customer first. Besides that, a fundamental understand-
interaction, digitization and Industry 4.0 solutions are more ing of textile production technologies and ways for Lot 1
and more used. As always, it is interesting to take a look at production will for sure help the students to give answers
other industries. There are very successful solutions in the to upcoming question in textile production. The capability
automotive or food (mymuesli) sector,” he pointed out. to design and evaluate technologies will help a lot. And I
Driving factors always advise be critical! Asks for! Check the premise! And
Elaborating on what is driving the need for such a then bring a better answer in the synthesis”, he opines.
change in production and consumption of textiles and ap- With specific reference to markets like India, does he
parels, Prof. Gloy reveals:” A big driver in B2C is the great think that the concept of Lot size 1 is already relevant? With
desire to express individuality. In many cultures around the the increase in ecommerce, does Prof. Gloy see this con-
world, this is a strong value and driving force of the respec- cept becoming more relevant? Replying to these key ques-
tive society. A nice example of this are row houses in Ger- tions, he remarked that like a lot of developments, it will
many, which initially look more or less the same as desired. take it time, but it is becoming more and more relevant.
But as if by magic, the residents customize their house over “Especially e-commerce is a booster for these develop-
the years and beautify it with additions and colours. In the ments. The customer can visit your shop 24 hours a day,
B2B area, it is simply the large variety of different questions worldwide and configure easily on a PC or a smart person-
from a wide variety of industries for which textile products al device his product. He can easily share his design with
provide the right answers. For example, a narrow fabric friends. And at the end he can even more quickly share
that is used as a headband for protective masks, knee pictures of the product over social media. Is there a better
brace or retaining belt in the car.” way for marketing?” he said highlighting the enormous op-
Sharing some examples of product categories in which portunities that are possible with the concept.
this concept is becoming increasingly relevant Prof. Gloy w
A pioneer in weft knit fabric manufacture in Sri Lanka, As per the company, Hayleys has earned another ac-
Hayleys Fabric has reiterated its commitment to superior colade confirming the consistent maintenance of superior
waste water treatment. standards of water quality in the form of GREEN status
With its modern waste water treatment plant, Hayleys awarded to it by NIKE Since 2016 - the highest rating for
boasts of a superior treatment process to purify and guar- compliance with stringent NIKE Water Quality Guidelines
antee the quality of the water being discharged so that it under the NIKE Sustainable Water.
meets the prescribed standards. About 4500m^3 waste Hayleys Fabric’s pledge to build and adhere to good
water is treated through their plant through screening, sustainability and environmental standards are shown
equalization, biological and chemical treatments. The puri- through its partnerships with global movements such as the
fied water is constantly checked in-house, and by external United Nations Global Compact (UNGC), Zero Discharge
parties such as the Central Environment Authority (CEA), of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) and by its commitment to
the Water Board and the Board of Investment (BOI), prior the SBTis.
to being released into the neighbouring river. Hayleys has complied with the Zero Discharge of Haz-
ardous Chemicals (ZDHC)
programme ahead of the
granted timeline. In recogni-
tion of its award-winning
achievement in complying
with the ZDHC requirements
ahead of time, Hayleys was
invited to share their best
practices at the 2020 ZDHC
South Asia regional confer-
ence held in Bangladesh.
KARL MAYER is a pioneer in manufacturing world-class has been decided that this model will now also be manu-
machines for warp preparation. They have been produc- factured in India by KARL MAYER Textile Machinery India
ing many types of sectional warpers, and over the years Private Ltd., Ahmedabad. Sectional warping is one of the
have supplied these machines across the globe, including crucial processes in warp preparation to produce quality
hundreds in India. For example, there are close to 150 and defect-free warp beams. The ISOWARP sectional warp-
machines of a single model, the ERGOTEC, running suc- ing machine ensures quality warp beams for all types of
cessfully in India! Based on market needs, KARL MAYER yarns suitable for shirting, suiting, dress material, uphol-
had also introduced the ISOWARP model sectional warper, stery, etc.
which has been manufactured in Germany and China. ISOWARP has been proven to run at higher warping
Several ISOWARP sectional warpers are also working well and beaming speeds and, in particular, with a substantial
in India and Bangladesh. simplification of operation, resulting in improved produc-
To meet the growing demand for the ISOWARP model, it tion. Beam-to-beam reproducibility is guaranteed with
KARL MAYER’s in-built KAMCOS system, which addition- Several factors are responsible for high productivity. A
ally has easy access to the teleservice network to remotely combination of high speed with minimal yarn tension and
support machine maintenance. Only warps of the highest optimal operator ergonomic preconditions guarantees
quality guarantee optimal efficiency and fault-free fabric in maximum productivity. The highest precision with long-term
the weaving department. This modern sectional warping reliability is required to ensure the best warp quality while
guarantees perfect warp quality at maximum productivity, preparing warp beams on a section warping machine.
which is a decisive factor for the weaving department. Also, all ends are wound on to the drum with exactly the
So how does ISOWARP ensure the best quality warp? same length and uniform tension – this is a key assurance
• Optimum warp build-up on the drum with precise posi- from KARL MAYER.
tioning of the reed headstock to the cone is achieved fully The ISOWARP further guarantees:
automatically and with the highest precision. The reed 1. Exact cone alignment.
headstock feed movement is followed automatically. 2. Precise section width determination.
• Uniform cylindrical build-up guaranteed through evener 3. Extremely precise feed calculation.
roller ensures that the yarn count variations and yarn 4. Evener roller at the running-on point.
volume changes do not cause any density variations. 5. Automatic section alignment.
• The reverse rotation of the drum is important in ensur- 6. Automatic section tension control.
ing a perfect warp sheet laying at its winding point on to Need for Section Tension Control
the drum with maximum levelling effect from the evener Through the consistent application of electronic control
roller. engineering and the perfect position of an evener roller,
• The KARL MAYER system permits the optimal winding modern sectional warping machines can reliably produce
density while at the same time ensuring minimal yarn a cylindrical material build-up on the warping drum. Equal
loading. Thus, an absolutely cylindrical build-up of the end length over the whole width of the warp is thus guar-
warp is achieved from the first to the last section. anteed. It ensures that the ends are not only wound to be
• Thanks to a short distance between the measuring roller the same diameter, but also with the same thread tension.
and the evener roller, section spread is practically negligible. Advantages of Section Tension Control
ISOWARP is designed to produce production warps for The section tension control measures the overall tension
all types of suiting, shirting, sheeting and furnishing appli- of the warp section immediately in front of the winding-on
cations with the most competitive price-performance ratio. point on the drum, coverts it into the value for a single end
Unique Features and then compares this figure with the specified figure en-
Its features include: tered in the system. When any divergence occurs, the CPU
1. Uniform thread tension. adjusts the thread tensioners on the creel until the specified
2. High residual elongation. tension range is reached again. Control is so quick and
3. Exact thread array. precise that the figure specified is held even in the run-up
4. No crossed ends. phase. This means it is possible to achieve fully constant
5. No missing ends. thread tension conditions in every phase of the warping
process, independent of: tenance-free and require very few spare parts. The KARL
• Changes in speed, even in the start and stop phase. MAYER ISOWARP made in India is real value for money
• Diminishing package diameter. and is on par with the machines made in Germany. We
• Any warp bobbin change in the middle of the warp. will continue to buy from KARL MAYER India for our future
Indian Scenario needs. We are proud to have contributed to KARL MAYER’s
A.T.E. Enterprises Private Ltd. is the sole selling agent for ‘Make in India’ efforts,” he added. Mohanarengan further
KARL MAYER in India and can guide customers in select- said, “We also appreciate that A.T.E. Enterprises and KARL
ing appropriate technologies and machine configurations MAYER teams have guided and supported us in selecting
to meet their requirements. There are many customer the right machine configuration and in the smooth running
testimonials, as for example, sectional warper ISOWARP of our greenfield project.
from KARL MAYER India delights Rajapalayam Mills. The Similarly, Morarjee Mills is impressed with KARL MAYER
Rajapalayam Mills Ltd., Rajapalayam, is the textile arm technology. Morarjee Mills, Nagpur, focuses on the pre-
of the Ramco Group and includes spinning mills with mium and high-value niche product segments with two
a total capacity of about 3,60,000 spindles and about divisions: premium yarn dyed shirting and fashion fabric.
14,000 OE rotors. They manufacture top-quality compact They produce approximately 25.4 million metres of pre-
yarns. Recently they also commissioned yarn-dyed shirting mium and high-quality fabrics per annum with complete
fabric manufacturing operations with 122 looms, weav- in-house quality yarns. They have a high profile list of cli-
ing preparatory and yarn dyeing system. Ramco uses only ents that includes domestic and international brands across
high-tech machines to produce high-end products. KARL 44 countries. The mills installed many warp preparations
MAYER is the sole supplier of weaving preparation for their machines from KARL MAYER that includes one KARL MAYER
complete weaving production lines. ISOWARP sectional warper.
Rajapalayam Mills installed two ISOWARP sectional Commenting on the performance of ISOWARP, Subrato
warping machines recently and N Mohanarengan, Chief Mukherjee, Plant Head, Morarjee Mills, said, “We are very
Operating Officer of Rajapalayam Mills was all praise for satisfied with the KARL MAYER ISOWARP sectional warper
the excellent performance of ISOWARP. “We are the first installed in our mills. We have been processing all types
one to install the ISOWARP sectional warping machines of shirting yarns – from medium to superfine cotton yarn
manufactured by KARL MAYER Textile Machinery India. We varieties – and it produces high-quality beams with almost
have installed two ISOWARP machines with double creels. no defects or wastage of material. We also find that ISO-
These machines are working at the highest production level WARP’s maintenance cost is minimal compared to other
and produce high-quality warp beams, enabling the suc- machines installed in our mills. We are glad to note that
cessful performance of our weaving machines,” he said. we will now get German technology made in India. We are
“Since the commissioning of these machines, we are very happy with the excellent support provided by A.T.E. En-
producing the best warp beams for almost all types of terprises and KARL MAYER Textile Machinery India. Both are
yarns, including the finest shirting, with minimum wastage our suppliers of choice for all our future warp preparation
of expensive, high-quality yarn. The machines are main- requirements.” w
MAHLO
Celebrates 75 Anniversary th
For 75 years Mahlo GmbH + Co. KG from Saal on the Danube has been setting worldwide
standards in the measurement and control of web-shaped goods. In spite of the ‘old’ age,
the machine manufacturer never tires of constantly developing in order to be one step
ahead of the challenges of their customers
– Ralph Greenwood-Mahlo,
owner of Mahlo
industry. Today the name Mahlo is not only synonymous with straighten-
ing machines, but also describes quality and reliability.
Mahlo’s weft straighteners and process control systems for textile
finishing can be found in all the important markets. Countless products
of many large and well-known brands have passed through a ‘Mahlo’
during their production. Says Ralph Greenwood-Mahlo, owner of Mahlo:
“My grandparents laid the foundation for Mahlo’s success. Our task now
is to lead the company towards an equally successful future without for-
getting our core values. Mahlo is a family business that takes responsibil-
ity for its employees and values fair and respectful treatment of customers
and business partners.”
Quality Control
In spite of an indescribable success story in the textile sector, the think
tank from Lower Bavaria proved early on that it had the foresight not to
rest on past laurels and its own showpiece product. In the mid-nineties,
engineers at the company, who carried on the innovative spirit of the
late founder, developed the Qualiscan QMS quality control system. The
system enabled the nonwovens, plastics and paper industries to measure
and control critical process parameters such as moisture, basis weight or
layer thickness. It was a trend-setting decision. These markets are becom-
ing increasingly important.
How strong has been proved in this ‘special’ year in progressing in giant steps. Mahlo has therefore developed
which the nonwovens industry is growing but the textile a digitalization concept that opens the doors to Industry 4.0
industry is shaken by the crisis. This makes it all the more for customers. The data generated by the systems can thus
important for a company not to stand on just one mainstay. be called up at any time to optimise processes and control
Elaborates Rainer Mestermann, CEO, Mahlo: “Our 75th equipment online.
anniversary marks an important milestone in the com- International Presence
pany’s history. We see it as a confirmation of the continu- Technical know-how combined with renowned products
ous development of the company and at the same time as and high service quality has bonded Mahlo with customers
an incentive to further increase the competitiveness of our all over the world. In order to serve the international mar-
customers with technologically leading products and tailor- kets as reliably as its home country, the company has set
made services.” up branches in the USA, Italy, Belgium, Spain and China
Industry 4.0 in addition to the headquarters in Saal. In addition, Mahlo
Changes are not only occurring in the markets, but also works with service stations and sales partners in over 100
within industrial plants. The networking of production is countries. Despite the worldwide business, Mahlo’s focus
CUSTOMER TESTIMONIALS
Here is what some of the long-standing customers of Mahlo have to say about their products and after-sales service:
has always remained in Germany, or more precisely in Mahlo even more than the economic success is the fact
Bavaria. All machines are developed and built at the head- that the family spirit that he planted right at the heart of
quarters with motivated, mostly self-trained employees. This his company is growing stronger than ever. Mahlo is still
guarantees the ‘Made in Germany’ quality and also creates family-owned today and the cooperation between owner,
independence from supply chains, which can be of great management and staff plays a major role. Mahlo is more
importance in times of bottlenecks. than just a workplace. It is precisely this combination that
Company Spirit creates the best conditions for writing the next successful
But what would have pleased company founder Dr. chapters together. w
KPR MILL
AN ICONIC SUCCESS
STORY
F rom its modest origins more than three decades ago, KPR Mill has indeed come a long way
and is now recognised as a leading manufacturer in the Indian textile industry. In fact, it has
further strengthened its portfolio with diversification into other segments, including its most
recent foray into garment retail. What applies here are the words of Chinese philosopher Lao Tzu
who said, “The journey of a thousand miles begins with a small step”
K P Ramasamy, Chairman
– SANJAY JAYAVARTHANAVELU,
Chairman and Managing Director, LMW
melange yarn, knitted fabrics, readymade knitted garments expansion initiatives with grit and gumption, but addresses
and sugar. Meanwhile, wind power coupled with co-gen employee needs with a personal touch. Managing Director
power boasts of a healthy bottom-line. K P D Sigamani is a dynamic entrepreneur with over three
The KPR Brotherhood decades’ experience in the apparel industry. He currently
Chairman K P Ramasamy is a pioneer with more than heads the apparel division of the company and its export
four decades’ experience in the apparel business. He is business.
a hands-on leader formulating innovative ideas towards His strong leadership skills and immense focus on
HR and new business avenues. He spearheads strategic customer satisfaction has ensured KPR Mill an enviable
position in the apparel exports market. Managing Director garments from Coimbatore has now established KPR Mill
P Nataraj, who is also a Chartered Accountant, manages as a leading business conglomerate in India, engaged in
the financial aspects of the business, cotton procurement textiles, sugar, ethanol, automobiles, power generation and
and yarn marketing. Armed with two decades’ industry education. The brothers’ determination, untiring hard work,
experience, strong interpersonal skills and sharp analytical perseverance and team efforts have crossed miles to be
skills, Nataraj has managed to create a strong rapport with where they are today. The Indian apparel sector with a his-
clients and has helped the company sustain and succeed in tory of fine craftsmanship and global appeal has emerged
a globally competitive market. as the most preferred destination for international brands.
Consistent Growth The strong raw material base and availability of skilled
KPR Mill has witnessed steady growth in business over the labour carries huge opportunities for Indian textile players.
last four decades. The company’s attempt to export knitted The current market situation and global scenario offers a
lot of opportunities favouring the Indian garment sector. ment facility in Ethiopia, not to forget industry-acclaimed
In such a scenario, KPR Mill has demonstrated high level ETP embedded fabric processing capacity of 22,000 MT
of quality consistency, commitment, best sustainable prac- per annum equipped with advanced cold processing tech-
tices, deployment of green manufacturing practices and nology and sophisticated printing division with the capacity
the empowerment of rural workforce, more particularly the to print 7,500 MT per annum (1,00,000 high-fashion gar-
women fraternity, all of which has helped garner trust and ments per day). It also has 66 wind mills with a total green
reputation among the international buyers. As the manage- power generation capacity of 61.92 MW, co-gen cum
ment puts it, the enquiries from the current clientele as well sugar plant with a capacity of 30 MW and 5,000 TCD and
as from the new markets are encouraging and there exist an ethanol plant with 90 KLPD capacity. Recently it has also
bright prospects to be explored aggressively while focusing ventured into the retail sector under its own brand ‘FASO’,
on the US and other potential markets. producing first-of-its-kind 100% organic cotton men’s wear.
Driven by Technology Outstanding Performance
KPR Mill has 12 manufacturing units equipped with In FY 2019-20, KPR Mill clocked total revenue of Rs
advanced technology and over 22,000 dedicated person- 3,389.09 crore with profit after tax (PAT) of Rs 376.68
nel. It has the capacity to produce 1,00,000 MT of yarn crore. Despite the ongoing pandemic, KPR Mill has clocked
per annum, 40,000 MT fabrics per annum and 115 million turnover of Rs 952 crore during the second quarter of FY
ready-made knitted apparel per annum, thus making it one 2020-21. Commenting on this performance, K P Ramas-
of the largest garment producers in India. It also has a gar- wamy, Chairman, KPR Group, says, “The entire world is
besides producing an ideal structure of yarn. KPR Mill has first-of-its-kind 100% organic cotton men’s innerwear
also established a new advanced technology knitting fac- and athleisure products under its newly launched ‘FASO’
tory housing contemporary imported knitting machines of brand, catering to three different premium ranges – com-
Mayer and Cie at its Karumathampatti unit. The company fort, style and supreme. This is in recognition of the fact
has also added another most effective and technically that the need of the hour is nature-oriented fashion that is
advanced effluent treatment system at its processing unit in toxic-free. FASO as a brand has been curated after doing
SIPCOT Perundurai, thus enlarging its wastewater treatment extensive research on customers’ needs and comfort. FASO
capacity. It has successfully established an ethanol plant innerwear is ‘Italian at heart’ which means slick designs in
with the capacity of 90 KLPD at its sugar factory in Karna- trending colours and meticulous craftsmanship. FASO of-
taka. The ethanol plant has commenced production and its fers a collection of innerwear and athleisure wear designed
full-fledged commercial operation is expected during the with greater ecological integrity.
current financial year. Organic cotton of the highest quality is used in a manner
Ethiopia Venture that is good for the environment. In addition to providing
KPR Mill has established a new plant in Ethiopia which a stylish collection with bright trendy colours, the 100%
has received approval from leading global buyers. The superfine combed organic cotton products offer ultra-soft
company is now ramping up its production capacity with comfort that naturally makes it very skin-friendly. “Our ma-
the setting up of a garment unit with the production capac- jor strength is the vertically integrated operations where we
ity of 10 million garments per annum. Employees were have end-to-end in-house manufacturing facilities for yarn,
recruited and trained at its
unit at Arasur. The required
capital equipment and
materials were imported and
commercial production has
already commenced while
trial consignments have been
shipped. In order to cater
to the growing demands of
international buyers, KPR
Mill established an entity
at Singapore, KPR Mill Pte.
Limited. Singapore has sub-
stantial international brands
and retailers well-connected
to the international garment
industry.
Retail Business: FASO
KPR Mill has introduced
fabrics, processing, printing, embroidery and garment. This ed by the employees’ continuous remarkable achievement
helps us to keep a check on the quality and enables pro- in government examinations, securing medals, ranks and
ducing organic cotton products that are skin-friendly and certifications every year,” the management informs.
breathable. With these eco-friendly products, KPR Group “The whole world is battling to curb the impact of the
hopes to make a stride in the retail segment. Our launch in corona virus but all of us should try our best to overcome
South India has met with success,” the management states. this challenge in solidarity. We should convert this threat
Human Resources into a new opportunity available to the nation to progress
Safe, healthy and happy workplace creates positive as regards its ‘Make in India’ aspirations and enhance its
business culture. It drives employee engagement, job exports to the world. Business conditions must be conducive
satisfaction and staff retention, and in turn defines business to position India as a viable competitive alternative to Chi-
success. Good HR practice plays a key role in developing, na which the Indian industry is fully capable of. The Indian
reinforcing and changing the culture of an organisation. textile industry possesses inherent and unique strength such
Having recognised the importance of human resources as abundance of raw material, presence of entire value
right from the beginning, KPR Mill has been concentrating chains, competitive manufacturing costs and availability of
on adding value to the employees by extending the best fa- skilled manpower,” the management states.
cilities for its work force. And in the current scenario of the “A large and growing domestic market, higher youth
pandemic, it is the ‘feel at home facilities’ provided by the population, rising per capita income, higher disposable
company that has helped it retain its manpower at a time incomes and preferences for brands and increase in
when the industry witnessed the return of migrated employ- organised retail landscape and e-commerce are the other
ees in large numbers to their hometowns. contributing factors. Besides, various governmental flag-
“At KPR Mill, employees chose to stay back on the ship programs are expected to further drive growth,” the
factory premises where they continued to enjoy comfort- management adds. The success of KPR Mill is an example
able accommodation, nutritious food and recreation and of a business that started from a humble beginning and
education facilities besides best health and safety meas- eventually grew into a force to be reckoned with. The jour-
ures. Higher education facility, an important aspect of the ney, however, has had its fair share of challenges but has
company’s HR policy, continues to add bright prospects to also been one of dedicated and diligent efforts along with
the employees at large. So far over 27,000 employees of employing the right strategies to be able to survive and also
KPR Mill have benefited through higher education. The best grow in as competitive a sector as textiles.
educational facilities extended by KPR Mill can be manifest-
Our journey with KPR Group is almost two decades old and it has been a
pleasant experience working with them. The teams across all units are very
professional, well-equipped and planned. They are always on the lookout for
new technologies to improve. They clearly explain their requirements and un-
derstand our difficulties as a supplier and provide us enough space to cater to
their needs. We take pride as their prominent vendor of electrical and mechan-
ical accessories for all kinds of machines from blow room to automatic cone
winding machines. Their cooperation is excellent in evaluating components
for new developments with proper and focussed feedback. One can experi-
ence the ease of doing business with KPR Mill provided you give good quality
products and cost-effective solutions.
Their immense support and cooperation during the uncharted times of the
pandemic-triggered lockdown phase has improved our relationship, going
from strength to strength and it definitely has been one of the highest points
in our relationship. Our experience in doing business with KPR Mill will not be complete without mentioning their re-
sponsibility on executing their commitments on commercial terms which is vital for sustainability of any enterprise and
a long-standing relationship between us, built on the platforms of mutual trust and commitment. We feel content to be
associated with them and wish them greater success in the journey ahead.
– VIKAS SHARAN, Director, India Operations, Saurer
Our journey with KPR Group is almost two decades old and it has been
a pleasant experience working with them. The teams across all units
are very professional, well-equipped and planned. They are always on
the lookout for new technologies to improve. They clearly explain their
requirements and understand our difficulties as a supplier and provide us
enough space to cater to their needs. We take pride as their prominent
vendor of electrical and mechanical accessories for all kinds of machines
from blow room to automatic cone winding machines. Their cooperation
is excellent in evaluating components for new developments with proper
and focussed feedback. One can experience the ease of doing business
with KPR Mill provided you give good quality products and cost-effective
solutions.
Their immense support and cooperation during the uncharted times of
the pandemic-triggered lockdown phase has improved our relationship,
going from strength to strength and it definitely has been one of the highest points in our relationship. Our experience
in doing business with KPR Mill will not be complete without mentioning their responsibility on executing their commit-
ments on commercial terms which is vital for sustainability of any enterprise and a long-standing relationship between
us, built on the platforms of mutual trust and commitment. We feel content to be associated with them and wish them
greater success in the journey ahead.
– R SUNDARRAJ, Managing Director, Naren Group
Finishing Machine from BRUECKNER: We are also privileged to be chosen by KPR Group for their finishing
project through the finishing machines from our principals, Brueckner of Germany. Initially, we supplied one six-
chamber and one eight-chamber stenters. Delighted with the performance of the machine, KPR Group favoured us for
the supply of four more stenters, which were supplied in 2016. Brueckner has always been a preferred supplier of KPR
Group when it comes to finishing and it demonstrates the confidence bestowed on our relationship and our delivera-
bles.
The stenter is the heart of textile finishing. It develops more and more into a multi-purpose line for the production of
technical textiles and other web-shaped materials. Several thousands of Brueckner stenters are in use all around the
globe. Every day they are stentering, drying, heat-setting, functionalising and coating uncountable metres of the most
different fabric types. Since many decades Brueckner stenters stand for highest quality and performance and ensure
production with sustainability and energy-efficiency.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Apart from capital machinery arena, we have also been serving KPR Group for a range of after-sales products including:
a) ring travellers from our principals, LAKSHMI RING TRAVELLERS, b) card clothing from our principals, LAKSHMI CARD
CLOTHING, and c) speciality lubricants from our principals, KLUEBER LUBRICATION INDIA LTD.
FASO establishes a
‘winning’ presence
KPR launched its brand FASO innerwear and athleisure wear in 2019, which has received enthu-
siastic response in the market. In an exclusive interview, E K Sakthivel, Executive Director, KPR
Mill Limited, provides detailed insights into the FASO brand, USPs and future plans
FUTURE OF TEXTILE
APROL System from B & R
Enables factories to implement energy monitoring, condition
monitoring and process data acquisition in one system
W
ith digitization, manufacturing indus-
try in India is undergoing changes
in all areas rights from machine de-
velopment to factory shop floors. Companies
have understood the importance of IT / OT
convergence and many have already started
taking steps in this direction. Automation has
long changed manufacturing and digitization
is further changing the way factories operate.
Textile industry too is looking at digitization as
an enabler for quality improvement and cost
competitiveness. This has prompted the use
of connected equipment, software and
advanced automation technologies in
various areas such as yarn production,
fabric production, finishing, production
management, inventory management
and other areas.
Impact of trends and technology
The labor-intensive textile Industry is
using automation for many processes
like cotton picking, ginning, spin-
ning, weaving, processing and even
to some extent in garment making.
Commonly attributed advantages of
automation includes higher productivity, more efficiency, global manufacturing standards makes it imminent for
better quality, more customized products, improved safety the Indian textile industry to adopt latest technologies and
and reduced lead times. Higher degree of automation low- automation solutions.
ers cost and increases quality at greater speed and higher Machine builders and end users are closely looking at
output. However, human and machine safety, energy leveraging next generation technologies to control and
savings, less maintenance, self-diagnostics and predictive monitor machines, factories and processes. Textile being
maintenance to increase machine and plant uptime are one of the oldest industry in India has its own challenges
some of the challenges textile industry is facing. Cutting- while adopting technology advancements. Many textile
edge automation solutions and technologies help tackle factories have decade old machines still running on the
these challenges, achieve excellent performance and stay shop floor having legacy systems and networks and much
ahead of competition. New trends are not only reshap- of operations still being manual or semi-automatic. Within
ing manufacturing processes but also helping plants & this environment, existing equipment, machines, devices
factories become smarter, connected and more efficient. and sensors are not connected. Operators collect data
Adoption of these developments in textile industry ensures manually from every machine about production output,
high return on investments and helps India leapfrog global raw material consumption etc. to calculate RoIs and OEE.
competition. Increasing emphasis on governments “Make Disconnected machines is one of the challenge associated
in India” campaign coupled with the need of meeting with brownfield textile factories. Unavailability of real time
D
anfoss Industries Pvt. Ltd., an industry leader in energy ef- said: “At Danfoss Drives, we are focussed on
ficient solutions has announced its bullish stance on further- generating value from our decades of experi-
ing the presence of its Drives segment in India, to further its ence to help drive the sustainability goals of
localisation and support the GoI’s mission towards an ‘Athmanirbhar national and international governments, in a
Bharat’. The Danfoss Group has made significant investments to the bid to help engineer a better and more sustain-
tune of INR 1000+ crores in last six years, to further the company’s able future. Backed by a strong understanding
commitment towards strengthening its local manufacturing and pow- of the global megatrends that are powering the
ering its capabilities towards India-focussed R&D and innovation. world’s economic and social growth, we aim to
Being the world’s first mass produced drive player and pioneer in push the boundaries of technology by innovat-
rently, the final products from the Danfoss India campus are also
exported to key markets such as US, Middle East, ASEA regions.
“Danfoss India’s commitment to India has been unwavering
from the start and the recent increase in India investments of
our drives segment reinforces this commitment. The added step
towards increasing our production lines is a testament to our
success story in addressing the needs of our customers and the
industry during these trying times. We remain steadfast in our
journey towards complete localisation and stand in solidarity with
the centre’s clarion call for “India for India” and the “Aatmanirb-
har Bharat Abhiyaan.”, said Mr. Ravichandran Purushothaman,
President, Danfoss India.
As part of Danfoss’ commitment to India, the company had
made extensive investments to further enhance the drives assem-
bly and manufacturing facility in 2019 and commenced the man-
ufacturing of P600 platform Drives from the Chennai campus,
which is currently also exported to global markets. The current in-
vestment allows for further expansion (since August 2020) for the
Palanisamy Lakshman P, assembly of the FC51/FC360 range of drives to cater exclusively
Director - Danfoss Drives, Danfoss India to the Indian market and further expand the P600 manufacturing
line in the coming months. The new range of drives will create
ing solutions to tackle climate change, helps cope a significant impact towards improving energy efficiency and
with rapid urbanisation and helps improve stand- maximising energy productivity. The latest additions to the drives
ards of living among the citizens of the world. portfolio to assemble in India will drive up the percentage of sales
Going into details about Danfoss Drives in India, of ‘Made in India’ drives to over 80%.
Mr. P L Palanisamy, Director – Danfoss Drives, Danfoss Drives find extensive applications across a range of
Danfoss India said: “Since its inception, Danfoss industries in India such as food & beverages, plastics, HVAC, air
India has viewed the region with vast growth po- compressor and textile OEMs, chemical, cement, steel, water,
tential. We continue to be the market leader across oil & gas, marine, paper to name a few. The 50 Acre Platinum
several verticals such as commercial buildings, rated Danfoss’ Chennai factory is equipped with two state of the
chemical, power, textiles, cement, pulp & paper, art assembly lines for drives, full load & harmonics testing facility
etc. due to our continuous innovation and value up to 1MW including EMC labs. Additionally, all the necessary
addition to customers. With the wide-spread adop- regulatory and customer approvals have been procured for the
tion of our drives across key Indian industries, we Chennai site.
have increasingly strengthened our resolve to make Since March 2020, with the implementation of the nationwide
our Danfoss Drives business self-reliant where lockdown, Danfoss India has demonstrated extreme business
~80% of our supplies are produced from India resilience and agility, ensuring minimal disruptions to its opera-
Campus with an increasing focus on building a tions. While select production lines have already been ramped up
local supplier base and enhancing process innova- to 100% capacity, a sizeable portion of the staff continues to work
tion for our customers in India. We are optimistic from home. Danfoss has ably leveraged its digital capabilities to
that the move towards increasing investments in conduct complex functions such as R&D and product inspections
the Drive segments will stimulate continued growth along with ensuring continued interaction with their customers
for Danfoss in India.” and other stakeholders.
With a steady focus on building a strong global In its continued efforts towards sustainability, the company has
R&D & engineering function, Danfoss India has committed to reduce the company’s energy intensity by 50% and
built fresh avenues for customer and industry double the company’s energy productivity before 2030 – both
collaborations within the country to enhance the measured against the base year of 2007. It is also set to change
product testing capabilities at global standards and its company car fleet to become all electric latest by 2030. In the
increase the speed of innovation. The company has coming years, Danfoss also aims to implement numerous meas-
also made huge strides in achieving maximum self- ures to further reduce our energy consumption and drive greener
reliance right from the sourcing of raw materials to technology investments in its buildings and processes.
the delivery of the finished products in India. Cur- w
Fig. 1: As a system supplier, Rieter offers the complete ring spinning system, including automation solutions such as SERVOtrail.
If a spinning mill wants to spin a wide variety of ning technology offers the same diversity and flexibility
different yarns, Rieter recommends the ring spinning for enabling customers to respond to the particular
system. Whether the spinning mill produces stand- requirements of the market.
ard yarns from various raw materials and in all yarn The economical advantage of a Rieter ring spinning
counts, or fancy yarns, core yarns or twin yarns, a system can be seen in a comparison. Here, a “mixed
ring spinning system always offers the most flexible system” consisting of machines from two different manu-
solution. With the Rieter compacting device on the ring facturers was contrasted with a Rieter system. A denim slub
spinning machine, it is even possible to quickly switch yarn was produced. The Rieter system (Fig. 1) comprised
between ring yarn and compact yarn. No other spin- the blowroom line VARIOline, the cards C 80, the draw
Fig. 2: The ring spinning machine G 38 offers full flexibility for producing standard and special yarns
Be Flexible
The ring spinning
machine G 38 is an
all-rounder that allows
the business to respond
quickly to changing market
requirements. With up
to 1 824 spindles, it can
produce a wide variety
of slub yarns and special
yarns, such as core yarns
and twin yarns, and even
compact yarns too. The
Rieter slub yarn system
VARIOspin is integrated
into the machine. The
latest-generation servomo-
tors are ideal for the high
dynamics involved in slub
yarn production. A range
of effect designs can easily
be programmed on the
machine display or an
Fig. 6: The piecing robot ROBOspin increases productivity and reduces personnel costs external computer with the
appropriate software and
chines enables the same output as a “mixed system” to be reliably reproduced. This allows fancy yarns of outstand-
achieved with fewer machines. This saves a lot of space. In ing quality – that is to say Rieter quality – to be produced
the case study mentioned above, the Rieter spinning mill efficiently and profitably (Fig. 5). For producing compact
requires five cards, one draw frame and 5% fewer ring yarn on the G 38, the customer can choose between the
spindles than the “mixed system.” Space-saving machine optionally available compacting devices COMPACTdrum
concepts lead to a compact spinning mill layout. This re- and COMPACTeasy. They make it simple to switch between
sults in space savings of approximately 10% and therefore ring yarn and compact yarn.
correspondingly lower building investments and mainte- Profit Further
nance costs. The new piecing robot ROBOspin for Rieter ring spinning
Reduce Personnel machines (Fig. 6) was not included in the comparison, but
Fewer machines means also less operating effort, since offers further economic advantages. It makes work on the
the Rieter system needs 3% fewer personnel. Automation ring spinning machine considerably more attractive. The
solutions such as the automated roving frame F 40 with the piecing robot automates a very unpopular task in the spin-
fastest doffer on the market, the roving bobbin transport ning mill for which it is hard to find the personnel in many
system SERVOtrail and user-friendly machines likewise markets: repairing ends down that occur during spinning
reduce personnel requirements. or after doffing. The robot receives information about the
Earn More position of the ends down from the integrated individual
Taking raw-material utilization, energy and labor spindle monitoring system ISM premium. The two robots –
costs, interest rates and ongoing operating costs into one on each side of the machine – are used 24/7 without
consideration, the total production costs of the perfectly any loss of efficiency. Spinning mills benefit from ROBOs-
synchronized Rieter system from a single source are sig- pin in the following key aspects: increased machine avail-
nificantly lower than those of the solution with different ability, higher productivity and a reduced burden on the
suppliers. This means customers who invest in the Rieter personnel side, which in turn reduces personnel costs. The
ring spinning system generate an approximately USD quality of the yarn piecer is consistent, and contamination
310 000 higher cash flow per year at the same produc- or damage of the cop is a thing of the past. An innovative
tion volume than customers who choose the “mixed and intelligent solution that is also available as a retrofit
system” (Fig. 4). depending on the machine model. w
Grundfos, one of the global leaders in advanced pump industries operate, dosing of chemicals has also become
solutions, has been able to create a unique mark in the wa- smarter. The transition from a silo system of dosing chemi-
ter industry. One of its advanced products range includes cals to automation has meant that these operations can be
the chemical dosing pumps. Grundfos’ solutions help to controlled remotely by software such as Building Manage-
determine the number of chemicals injected into each pro- ment System (BMS).
cess and provide the right-size of the dosing pump for any The challenges associated with chemical dosing are no
system to make sure the best performance and precision is longer just a technical problem, having different number of
achieved in a textile industry. Digital dosing pumps are also proprietary chemicals in the market combined with the chang-
used by various other industries like food, manufacturing es in the organisational set up demands multiple departments
facilities, medical laboratories and mining operations. like planning & procurement, logistics & inventory manage-
The dyeing applications in the textile industry have come ment, plant operations and other to converge in order to
a long way from the manual addition of dyes to mecha- optimize the chemical demand in the respective processes.
nised dosing. With industry 4.0 revolutionizing the way In the textile dyeing application, Hydrogen Perox-
ide (H2O2) is a commonly used process. The primary function of a dosing pump is to transfer precise dosing
bleaching agent. Assessments were medium (chemicals, syrups etc). Grundfos’ smart digital dosing pumps use the
conducted by Grundfos in a towel stepper motor - the lynchpin ensures the accuracy of dosing.
manufacturing industry in southern In an automated-process environment, the ability of individual devices to
Tamil Nadu, India that uses H2O2 as interact with other devices and the potential to generate and capture data
bleaching agent. The entire process are paramount. The real time data allows businesses to analyse and register
was a manual setup, in an attempt to continuous improvement in the entire process. Grundfos’ smart digital pumps
automate the process, few interesting enhance operational efficiency not only in an automated environment but can
observations were made: simulate an automated process even when operating in silos. The Grundfos
• Due to manual handling, chemicals DID controller can also be coupled with the pumps when multiple chemicals /
were lost in some batches that also dyes are used in a process – this can help synchronise the pumps.
led to spillage and other issues Grundfos SMART Digital dosing solutions have heralded a new era of intel-
• Visible differences in the quality of ligent chemical dosing. The cutting-edge drive technology, new dimensions of
towels that received less quantity of end-user comfort and intelligent flow control help in improving cost efficiencies
chemical during bleaching while continuing to support any high precision processes. w
• Chemical stored in abundance led
to high inventory cost
Some of the key issues are the
nature of the chemicals used in dye-
ing applications and their unregu-
lated quantities. Precise and accurate
dosage of chemicals ensures proper
dyeing while reducing costs and
simultaneously increasing the overall
productivity.
Textile units currently no longer
need a single product, but rather
needs holistic solutions to address the
problems while continuously improv-
ing the process. In the chemical
dosing context, the offered values
are perceived differently by end users
(plant operators), influencers (con-
sultants) and the actual purchaser
(purchase department). The end user
requires a system that is robust with
minimal downtime, the actual pur-
chaser seeks best quality at best price
and the influencer derives value in the
overall performance of the system.
Hence, the challenge in selecting the
right dosing pump becomes multi-
dimensional.
The rotating components of the
mechanical device is subjected to
constant wear and tear and dosing
pumps are no exceptions. Over a
period, the error percentage or toler-
ance of the pump widens and results
in dosing quantity variation. This
takes away the process control and
results in higher chemical consump-
tion. The purchase decision based
on price very often overlooks the
lifecycle cost of a dosing pump. Dos-
ing pumps, if rightly selected not only
bring down the operating cost but
also increase the productivity of the