Anon - Grafting and Propagating Fruit Trees
Anon - Grafting and Propagating Fruit Trees
Grafting and
Propagating
Fruit Trees
Grafting and Propagating Fruit Trees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Contents
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Types of Grafting or
Budding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Dormant or Winter . . . . . . . . . . 5
Bench Grafting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Cleft Graft. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Budding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Shield or T-Budding . . . . . . . . 10
Chip Budding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Grafting Supply
Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Grafting and Propagating Fruit Trees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Introduction
Many people mistakenly believe whip, and bridge grafting of apple
that fruit trees grow true to name and pear is possible, but such
from seeds. In reality, if you grafts are not often successful on
collect seed from a fruit grown stone fruits. Sweet cherry and,
on a plant, the seeds will produce occasionally, peach may be suc-
plants that will be a hybrid of cessfully grafted using the side
two plants. The new plant will graft onto a 2- to 3-year-old limb.
be the same kind of plant, but its Materials needed for any type
fruit and vegetative portions may of grafting are scions, rootstocks,
not look the same as the parent a sharp knife, a cleft grafting
because the plant is “heterozy- tool, and a lightweight hammer.
gous.” Therefore, all fruit trees Depending on the type of graft
must be vegetatively propagated to be prepared, you will need
by either grafting or budding grafting “wax,” rubber bud strips,
methods. waxcoated cotton twine, grafting
Fruit growers frequently use tape, and wire nails (number 16
grafting techniques to topwork or 18). Having a sharp knife is of
new varieties or strains of fruit paramount importance—using
onto established trees bearing a dull knife can lead to serious
misnamed or obsolete varieties injury.
and to repair injury or damage In this publication we will
caused by mice, rabbits, deer, or describe some successful propa-
mechanical means. Commercial gation methods that can be used
nursery workers propagate new on tree fruit. The techniques
fruit trees, and producing a tree described may be used in all
ready for planting takes several instances where grafting is re-
years. quired. The choice of methods
All of the temperate-zone depends on the time of year, the
deciduous fruit plants may be type of material available, and
propagated by budding. Cleft, the type of propagation desired.
Grafting and Propagating Fruit Trees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Wrapping and Waxing Several wax-based and assumes a yellowish or tan color.
water-soluble waxing materi- Divide into 1/4- or 1/2-pound balls
As a general rule, all grafts made
als are available. When using and store in plastic bags until
by budding or whipping should
the more liquid water-soluble ready for use.
be wrapped. Grafts made by
materials, be sure to recoat the The luid hot waxes and
clefting, side limb insertion
graft several times to make sure water-soluble materials low
(often called “hip graft”), inarch-
that any cracks (which often freely around all cut surfaces of
ing, and bridging need to be
occur with these materials) are the graft and are less trouble-
waxed, and in some instances
closed. Water-soluble asphaltic some to apply than the hand wax;
nailed tight.
compounds, commonly sold as however, a special wax melter is
Many cloth-backed and
wound dressings, are simpler to needed for the hot waxes.
plastic tapes are available for use
use than the wax-based materi- Sealing all cut surfaces is
in wrapping the graft, although
als. Containers of water-soluble important for the graft to suc-
plastic tapes appear to be easier
materials must be protected from ceed. This includes all exposed
to use. Rubber composition bud
freezing to prevent breakdown of surfaces where the stock and
strips are used to wrap the dor-
the product. Grafting wax, also scion are joined and the free end
mant buds. The plastic materials
called “hand wax,” does not re- of the scion.
come in rolls of 3/8- and 1/2-inch
quire a heating device to liquify
widths and are well suited for
it. It is soft, pliable, and simply
grafting purposes. When care-
pressed around the graft. Hand
fully wrapped, they will form a
wax is suitable when only a few
very tight seal. The plastic tape
grafts are to be prepared since it
is secured by pulling the free
is very sticky and unpleasant to
end under the last turn around
use. Commercial formulations
the stem. Whether the tape is
of hand wax can be purchased
wrapped from the bottom up or
from the companies listed in the
vice versa makes little difference.
“Grafting Supply Resources” sec-
However, making the wrapping as
tion of this publication.
airtight as possible is important.
You can also make your own
When rubber bud strips are
hand wax using the following
used to wrap the bud or graft,
recipe:
no further attention is usually
needed. When nursery workers’ • 4 parts (by volume) of rosin
adhesive tape is used, care must • 2 parts (by volume) of
be taken to slit the tape vertically beeswax
about 4 to 6 weeks after growth • 1 part (by volume) of tallow or
starts to prevent girdling. raw linseed oil
Cotton twine or cloth strips
Melt the tallow or heat the
impregnated with wax may
linseed oil (to about 125ºF), and
be used to wrap the graft. The
then add the beeswax. When
waxed string is useful, but great
these two parts have melted
care is necessary to ensure an
together, then add the powdered
airtight wrapping. The strips of
rosin. Stir until thoroughly mixed,
impregnated cloth (1/2 inch wide)
pour into a bucket of water, and
are useful in wrapping bark
allow to cool. Form the wax into a
grafts or T-buds.
ball and pull (or knead) it until it
Grafting and Propagating Fruit Trees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Dormant or Winter
scions.
place the budwood into plastic
The scions should be
bags or wrap it in moist towels
wrapped in nonperforated plastic
or burlap as you collect it. Place Propagation to be done during
(a plastic bread wrapper is excel-
budwood of only one variety in a the dormant or winter period is
lent) and placed in cold storage
labeled bag. usually carried out in late March
(30 to 40ºF) or buried in moist
Budsticks that will not be to early April. Both the receiving
sand or sawdust until ready for
used immediately should be and inserted plant material must
use. When making the graft,
bundled, labeled, and stored in be fully dormant. If either piece
remove an inch or two of the tip
moisture-retaining containers of plant material is not dormant,
and basal portions of the scions
such as plastic bags or waxed the grafts may fail. Propagation
to eliminate wood that may have
cardboard boxes, which should techniques used when trees are
dried out. Another reason for dis-
be kept cool (32 to 45ºF). The dormant include bench graft-
carding the tip and basal portions
longer budwood is stored, the ing, dormant chip budding, cleft
is that the tip portion is too small
less likely it is to “take.” General- grafting, bridge grafting, bark
and the base too large for proper
ly, budwood stored for more than grafting, and inlay grafting. The
handling. Furthermore, neither
a few days should be discarded. irst two methods are primarily
portion will have properly
In budding, the situation is used to create new trees; bridge
matured buds.
somewhat different in that the grafting and inarch grafting are
“June bud” technique involves used to repair damage to the
the use of previous season’s tree trunk; and cleft grafting,
terminal growth, whereas the bark grafting, and inlay grafting
dormant budding is made from are used to topwork a tree to a
nongrowing buds on the current new variety or to add multiple
season’s growth. In either case, varieties to a single tree.
only one-year-old material is
suitable for any form of graftage
discussed here.
Grafting and Propagating Fruit Trees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Bench Grafting The scions should be collect- The two pieces are then itted
ed only from dormant terminal together with the tongues inter-
Bench grafting, also known as
twigs. Scion wood comes from locking (Figure 1c), and the graft
whip and tongue grafting, is per-
the previous season’s growth. is wrapped (Figures 1d and 1e)
formed indoors, preferably in a
If you need to store the scion and waxed immediately. When
cool area. An unheated garage or
wood for a brief period, keep it in the scion is of a smaller diameter
barn is an ideal location.
moist sphagnum moss, sand, or a than the stock, be sure to match
This method is most success-
plastic bag in a cool place. Scion the cambium layer of both pieces
ful for grafting material pencil
wood must be kept moist and on one side. Examine the graft
sized (1/4 to 3/8 inch) to about
cool until used. After the cuts are after the wax hardens and rewax
1 inch in diameter. Because of
made, scions must be inserted any holes or cracks that may
the large amount of cambial
immediately. Do not store scion have developed.
contact, it heals quickly and
wood in a refrigerator or storage Alternatively, you can pur-
makes a strong union. Ideally,
room that has held or currently chase a grafting tool (Figure 2a,
the stock and scion should be the
holds apples. Apples give off next page). The tool makes an
same diameter. This type of graft
ethylene gas, which can damage omega cut in one stock (Figure
is made when both the stock and
the scion wood. 2b) and a corresponding cut in
scion are dormant (late March to
The stock is prepared by the other stock (Figure 2c). The
early April).
making a 1- to 2-inch sloping cut two pieces are then itted togeth-
at the top of the stock, as shown er (Figure 2d) and wrapped.
in Figure 1a. A second downward Store the completed trees in
cut (Figure 1b) is made into the a cool, moist area for 7 to 10 days
stock, starting a third of the way to make sure the cambiums heal
down from the top end. The together. Be sure to plant them
second cut is made about half out before the buds begin to
as long as the irst. The scion is expand.
prepared in the same manner.
1a
1b 1c 1d 1e
Figure 1. Preparing and performing bench grafting.
Grafting and Propagating Fruit Trees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Figure 2.
Using an
omega cut
grafting tool. 2a 2b 2c 2d
Cleft Graft pared by making a tapering cut with a knife or cleft grafting tool
1 to 2 inches long on each side to a depth of about 2 to 3 inches
Cleft drafting is the most com-
(Figures 3a and 3b). The scion (Figures 4b and 4c). Keep the
monly used method for topwork-
should be 3 to 4 inches long and knife in position or insert a chisel
ing a relatively mature tree over
about 3/8 to 1/2 inch in diameter. to keep the split open and insert
to another variety. This system is
The stock is cut off squarely the scions (Figure 4d). The scion
used on stocks from 1 to 3 inches
(Figure 4a) and split vertically is placed so that its cambium
in diameter. The scion is pre-
layer and the cambium layer
of the stock are in contact. All
exposed surfaces are waxed or
coated immediately. Usually, no
wrapping is needed because the
stock exerts suficient pressure
to hold the scions; however,
wrapping the stock will en-
sure a tighter connection and
Figure 3. Tapering cut less chance for the scion to be
used to prepare the bumped out of the stock.
scion for a cleft graft. 3a 3b
left graft .
4a 4b 4c 4d
Figure 4. Splitting stock for a cleft graft.
Grafting and Propagating Fruit Trees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Budding
Budding is another form of graft-
ing where only the bud is used
rather than a piece of scion with
several buds. There are two types
of budding: shield or T-budding
8b and chip budding. Budding is
Figure 8. Successful inarch graft Figure 10. Finished bark graft. commonly done in late summer,
using rootstock liners when young. but dormant chip budding can be
Shield or T-Budding In dormant budding, the bud There has been considerable
remains in place on the trunk of success budding sweet cherries
T-budding operation is limited to
the rootstock until the following using an inverted “T.” The only
the period of the summer when
spring, when the rootstock is cut difference in the procedure is the
the bark is said to slip (Figure
off just above the scion bud. A placement of the cross-cut at the
12)—when it separates easily from
tree may be produced in one year bottom of the vertical cut on the
the wood. This usually occurs
by June budding, but produc- stock.
from late May to early June and
Chip Budding
ing a inished tree by dormant
from mid-July to early September,
budding requires at least two
but most budding is done during
growing seasons. In either case,
the latter period. Budsticks of the Chip budding is a technique that
the scion buds (13B) are cut from
scion variety (Figure 13A) are can be used whenever mature
the budstick and placed in the
prepared from the mid-portion of buds are present and the bark
“T” as indicated at 13C and 13D.
the current season’s growth. The is not slipping. It can be done in
The bud is then wrapped in place
rootstock is either a one-year-old the spring before growth starts
with a rubber bud strip as shown
seedling or rooted layer. This is and when the stock and the scion
at 13E. The rubber bud strip will
also referred to as fall (or dor- are still totally dormant. Chip
disintegrate in several weeks. If
mant) budding and is the common budding is generally used when
it does not, or you use a nonbio-
budding system used. the stock and scion are relatively
degradable tie, you will need to
cut the rubber band. small (1/2 to 1 inch in diameter).
In recent years, most commercial
tree fruit nurseries have changed
from T-budding to chip budding
because the buds tend to grow
A out better.
In chip budding, the irst cut
is made below the bud and down
C into the wood at an angle of 30
to 45 degrees (Figure 14). The
Figure 12. Slipping bud. second cut is started about 1 inch
above the bud and goes inward
and downward behind the bud
until it intersects the irst cut.
B
D E
The same procedure is then fol- after-ripening, occurs after the new plants (see “Handling in the
lowed on the stock, making sure fruit portion is ripe. During this Nursery” below).
to match the size of the “chip” period the embryo develops until
cut from the budstick. it is mature. The necessary after- Method 2—Refrigerator
Unlike the T-bud, there are ripening could be accomplished Extract seeds and/or pits from
no protective laps to keep the by the following two systems. the fruit you want to reproduce.
chip bud from drying out. There- Remove all adhering fruit por-
fore, securely wrapping the bud Method 1—Outdoors tions and allow seeds to air-dry.
is necessary to seal the cut edges, Prepare a garden-soil plot in the Then, place them in a glass jar or
as well as to hold the bud piece fall as you would for planting other suitable container to which
in place. Nursery workers’ adhe- any other type of seeds. Make a loosely itted lid or cover may
sive tape works well, although a furrow no deeper than one or be added. Set the seeds aside in a
white or transparent plastic tape two times the longest dimen- cool place until mid-January.
is more often used. Once the sion of the seed. Cover the seeds Seeds require after-ripening.
buds start to grow, the tape must with a light cover of soil and add The length of this period varies
be cut. an inch or two of sand over the by type of fruit (Table 1). The
In chip budding the stock is row. The sand will prevent the temperature at which the seeds
not cut back above the bud until soil from crusting, which inhibits are stored will also impact the
the union is complete. If the bud germination. success of germination. Seeds
is inserted in the fall, the stock is Next, place wire screen, or should be stored dry in a sealed
cut back just before growth starts hardware cloth, over the row—be container at the appropriate
the next spring. If the budding is sure that all of the edges are temperature. Most seeds can be
done in early spring, the stock is pushed several inches into the stored in airtight containers for
cut back about 10 days after the soil and that the ends are closed. up to 1 year if temperature is
bud has been inserted. This prevents chipmunks and controlled.
from Seed
the seeded area closely for newly the seeds with either moist
germinated seedlings. As the (not wet) peat moss, sand, or
Grafting and budding require seedlings grow, remove the wire shredded paper towels in mid-
a compatible rootstock or stock screen to prevent restricting the January. Return the mixture to
plant onto which you attach your
desired variety of fruit plant.
An inexpensive way to obtain
a seedling rootstock is to col- Table 1. After-ripening requirements for certain fruit tree seeds.
lect seeds from the type of plant TREE EFFECTIVE BEST DAYS
TEMPERATURE TEMPERATURE REQUIRED
you are propagating. This sec-
(ºF) (ºF)
tion gives a simple method to
help germinate seeds to produce Apple 40–50 40–41 70–80
grafting rootstocks.
Apricot 40–50 45 60–70
The seeds of all common tree
fruits (apple, pear, peach, and Cherry 33–50 41 90–140
cherry) require a chilling period
before they will germinate and Peach 33–50 45 120–130
form new plants. The chilling
Pear 33–41 40 60–90
period, known as dormancy or
Grafting and Propagating Fruit Trees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
the container and replace the lid. the seedlings. Water thoroughly
Grafting Supply Resources
Place container and seeds in the every 10 to 12 days.
Orchard Valley Supply
refrigerator until after the last The new seedling has a
Phone: 888-755-0098
severe spring frosts. The seeds taproot. To facilitate transplant-
Web site: orchardvalleysupply
should remain in the refrigerator ing, cut the taproot by pushing .com
for at least 60 days. In early April a spade under each plant. Push
prepare a garden-soil seedbed the blade into the soil to cut the A.M. Leonard Inc.
with furrows as described above taproot about 5 to 6 inches below 241 Fox Drive
and plant the seeds. Keep the the surface. Piqua, OH 45356
soil moist but not wet. Do not Peach, nectarine, almond, Phone: 800-543-8955
add fertilizer. and apricot seedlings may be Web site: www.amleo.com
budded the irst summer, usu-
Handling in the Nursery ally in late July or early August. OESCO, Inc.
Apples, cherries, pears, and PO Box 540, Route 116
When the plants are 6 to 8 inches
Conway, MA 01341
tall, apply 1 to 2 tablespoons of plums should be allowed to grow
Phone: 800-634-5557
urea along every 12 inches of through to the July-August
Web site: www.oescoinc.com
row in a band on one side of period of the second year before
the seedlings. Keep the fertil- budding is done. Ben Meadows Company
izer about 3 inches away from PO Box 5277
Janesville, WI 53547
Phone: 800-241-6401
Web site: www.benmeadows.com
Forestry Suppliers
205 West Rankin St.
PO Box 8397
Jackson, MS 39284
Phone: 800-647-5368
Web site: www.forestry-
suppliers.com