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COFFEE ROASTING

Gtranqulity / Shutterstock
PROGRESS ON
COFFEE ROASTING:
A PROCESS CONTROL TOOL FOR A CONSISTENT
ROAST DEGREE – ROAST AFTER ROAST
Chahan Yeretzian, Flurin Wieland & Alexia N. Gloess
Zurich University of Applied Science, Institute of Chemistry and Biological Chemistry
Marco Keller, Andreas Wetzel & Stefan Schenker
Bühler AG

A real-time automated process control tool for coffee roasting was developed to The flavour of a freshly prepared cup of coffee
consistently and accurately achieve a targeted roast degree. It is based on time- is the final expression and perceptible result of a
resolved on-line monitoring of volatile organic compounds (VOC) in the off-gas of a long chain of transformations which link the
drum roaster, using Proton-Transfer-Reaction Time-of-Flight Mass-Spectrometry seed to the cup. These include agricultural
(PTR-TOF-MS). These experiments provide a detailed, real-time picture of the factors such the variety of the plant, the
evolution of the roasting process with the aim of controlling the process and chemistry of the soil, the weather and the alti-
consistently achieving a targeted roast degree. tude at which the coffee is grown. Combined
with the way the cherries are picked, further
processed and stored, a green bean is obtained
that contains all the ingredients necessary for
the later development of the typical coffee
aroma. Yet, the green beans give no clue as to
what they might become once roasted. They
have neither the characteristic smell nor
the taste of a good cup of coffee. To reveal the
typical coffee flavour, coffee has to be roasted.
From a scientist’s point of view, roasting is
the collection of a large number of heat induced
time and temperature dependent physical and
chemical transformations. It turns a hard,
spongy to bite, green / grassy smelling bean into
an intensely fragrant, brittle, and extractable
dark brown bean. These changes, and in
particular the development of the substances
responsible for the smell, taste, and brown
colouration, have still not sufficiently been
elucidated. Therefore, the commonly used
FIGURE 1 A simplified scheme showing the main classes of volatile compounds of roasted coffee formed methods of roasting have largely been found
from non-volatile precursors in the green beans during roasting
empirically. In Figure 1, an overview of

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TABLE 1 Coffee was roasted applying three different hot-air inlet temperatures (L, low; M, medium; H, high), each to three different roast degrees (L, light;
M, medium; D, dark), yielding a total of nine different time-temperature roasting profiles, each labelled by a two-letter code (first column). For each profile, 3 to 5
roasting trials were performed (# of trials). The total number of trials that were included in the subsequent data analysis (principle component analysis) was 42.
Results are reported as mean values at a 95 per cent confidence level. The roast degree was measured in values of Colorette. FOG is the gas flow in the off-gas line.
The three last columns give the values T1, T2 and T3 for each roast profile, as measured by the respective temperature sensors (see text)

hot-air inlet roast degree mean FOG Mean Values at the final time
Code # of trials temperature roast degree roasting time / s / Colorette / g·s-1 T1 / °C T2 / °C T3 / °C
LL 4 low light 1130 ± 25 109.9 ± 1.2 70.4 ± 0.6 316.5 ± 0.9 184.6 ± 0.4 179.1 ± 0.5
LM 5 low medium 1199 ± 9 90.4 ± 0.7 68.7 ± 0.5 321.0 ± 1.2 192.2 ± 0.7 185.2 ± 0.7
LD 6 low dark 1258 ± 11 77.5 ± 1.1 67.7 ± 0.2 327.0 ± 1.4 198.9 ± 0.4 189.0 ± 0.3
ML 5 medium light 831 ± 1 110.3 ± 0.9 69.6 ± 0.4 368.3 ± 0.4 185.7 ± 0.4 183.1 ± 0.5
MM 3 medium medium 869 ± 14 91.1 ± 0.6 70.2 ± 0.5 374.9 ± 1.4 192.7 ± 0.5 188.3 ± 0.2
MD 5 medium dark 907 ± 3 77.8 ± 1.0 69.4 ± 0.3 380.2 ± 0.6 198.3 ± 0.5 191.9 ± 0.2
HL 5 high light 546 ± 7 109.5 ± 1.4 67.6 ± 0.6 462.4 ± 1.2 185.9 ± 0.5 185.4 ± 0.4
HM 5 high medium 572 ± 8 91.1 ± 1.2 67.1 ± 0.5 468.8 ± 1.9 191.4 ± 0.6 188.8 ± 0.4
HD 4 high dark 593 ± 8 77.9 ± 0.5 66.7 ± 0.3 472.6 ± 0.9 195.4 ± 1.2 191.1 ± 0.7

important chemical transformations leading process. Indeed, we believe that consistency, coffee variety and a target flavour profile
from the non-volatile green coffee precursors to roast after roast, is one of the most important accomplished, the sign of a good roast-master is
the main classes of volatile compounds formed criterion of a good roast. Once a specific roasting the capacity to understand and control the
during roasting are schematically summarised. process has been established for a given green relevant raw material and roasting parameters
From a practitioner’s perspective, roasting
can be regarded as a skill, which sometimes
approaches an art form. It is in essence the
search for the perfect time-temperature path for RoastMaster™20 – uniform and efficient coffee roasting to the core. Now
a given green coffee raw material to express its small and medium-sized companies can use cutting-edge roasting technology
full flavour potential. by Bühler. The RoastMaster™20 comes with a state-of-the-art control system
From an economic perspective, coffee is the including a touch screen for comfortable parameter optimization and process
second most valuable commodity exported by control. The proven drum roasting technology with variable drum speed and
developing countries – second to crude oil1. the separate cooling and heating fans assure perfect roasting of every single
With an annual production in 2010 of 133 bean. High quality materials provide excellent operational reliability and make
million bags (60 kg/bag) and an average price of the RoastMaster™20 the ideal solution for all who ask for nothing less than a
USD 4.45/kg, this amounts to a total value perfect product for a competitive price.
of worldwide traded coffee in 2010 of
USD 35 billion. Coffee is a commodity of high
Bühler AG, Coffee, CH-9240 Uzwil, Switzerland, T +41 71 955 11 11, F +41 71 955 35 82
economic importance for coffee producing as [email protected], www.buhlergroup.com
well as for coffee consuming countries.
Most remarkably, coffee has been, next to
cotton, the second most performing commodity RoastMaster™20
of 2010 – which has logged an impressive
PLC control system :
45 per cent return in 2010. There is no doubt that Easy-to-use solution with
integrated touch panel,
green coffee is a crop of global, economic parameter memory, tempera-
importance. But even the best green coffee can ture trend and safety features.

be spoiled if not properly roasted. Hence, Flexible roasting profile

for best flavour: Hot-air
roasting is of crucial economic importance and
system with high proportion
defines whether the potential in the green of convective heat transfer
assures uniform roasting of
beans is expressed in the cup and also every single bean for highest
materialises in economic terms. It is indispens- product quality.

able to consistently master the roasting process Reliable drum roasting

technology: Variable drum
and get the most out of an ever increasingly speed for optimal heat transfer
valuable crop, particularly in times of high and product quality.

commodity prices. Functional and durable

machine design : High-quality
In view of the outstanding economic
materials and innovative
importance of roasting, we have, since 1996, features for a long lifetime
and superior reliability.
been engaged in developing novel state-of-the-
art analytical technologies, with the aim of
increasing the consistency of the roasting

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COFFEE ROASTING

significance to the odour of coffee. In order to

monitor detailed, flavour relevant information
on the evolution of the coffee roasting process
in real-time, one needs methods capable of
monitoring VOCs at high time-resolution, with
high sensitivity and chemical selectivity in the
off-gas of a roaster.
Several techniques have been developed to
monitor on-line the off-gas during coffee
roasting 3-28. In 1996, the first of a series of
exploratory studies using different laser
ionisation schemes coupled to Time-of-Flight
Mass-Spectrometry was published 23,24,29,30.
Applying multivariate statistical methods on
time-resolved intensity traces of nine volatile
coffee compounds, the roasting degree could
be roughly traced for a range of roasting
temperatures (200-250°C). This study demon-
strated the feasibility of on-line control of the
coffee roasting process, yet lacked precise and
repeated measurements of the VOC profiles by a
tight control of the roasting process23. Later, in
1998, the coffee roasting process was investi-
FIGURE 2 Schematic representation of the experimental strategy to establish an on-line process control
for coffee roasting that achieves a consistent roast degree, roast after roast. For each roasting cycle, a gated by an emerging, alternative on-line
series of on- and off-line measurements are performed. The on-line measured values include technology, Proton-Transfer-Reaction Mass-
three temperature profiles; (i) the temperature of the heating gas entering the roasting, (ii) the off-gas
temperature and (iii) the temperature inside the roaster. Two flow meters also measure the flow of the Spectrometry (PTR-MS) 31-33. Here, chemical
heating gas entering the roaster and the off-gas flow. Furthermore, the off-gas of the roaster was measured ionisation of neutral VOCs is achieved by
on-line by PTR-ToF-MS. At the end of each roasting cycle, the GC-MS and sensory profiles of the extracts
and the roast degree were measured off-line. Combining on- with off-line date yielded a comprehensive proton transfer from H3O+. The protonated VOC
characterisation of each roasting process, and allowed establishing a process control tool for the coffee ions are subsequently analysed by a quadruple
roasting, as explained in the text
mass filter.
such as to consistently achieve the same represent coffee flavour compounds. While In 2009, an improved version of PTR-MS was
targeted sensory profile. close to 1,000 VOCs were reported in coffee, introduced which replaces the Quadropole by a
As we enter the 21st century, it seems most are odourless and less than 50 are of Time-of-Flight MS 34. Triggered by this tech -
unlikely that the basic technology of applying
heat to the beans will fundamentally change.
Yet, one important innovation that will most
probably affect future generations of roasters is
intelligent on-line control tools.
In this article, we summarise work from by
our group on on-line analysis of the roasting
process, and discuss our most recent contri-
bution to the subject. The ultimate objective of
our research is to develop on-line technologies
for controlling the roasting process so as to
achieve highest consistency for the flavour
profile of roasted coffee, using real-time process
control tools.

On-line analysis of off-gas from

the coffee roaster
FIGURE 3Temperature profiles during the roasting experiments. T2 represents a convoluted temperature
Roast-gas is composed of a complex mixture of trace between the actual bean temperature and the surrounding hot-air temperature. The brown solid line
gases. These are primarily non-odorous shows the temperature profile for a high (H) hot air inlet temperature. The dotted red line shows the
temperature profile for a medium (M) and the orange one for a low (L) hot air inlet temperature. For each
inorganic gases such as CO2, CO, N2 and H2O2, hot air temperature profile, coffee was roasted to a light (L), a medium (M) and a dark (D) roast degree.
and less than one per cent of the volume of the So e.g. HL, HM and HD represent the end points of the roasting cycles at high hot air inlet temperature, to
a light (ML), a medium (MM) and a dark (MD) roast, respectively. All roasting experiments start at 210°C
gases are VOCs, only a small fraction of which

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COFFEE ROASTING

nological innovation, we revisited the on-line determined in Colorette values, as provided component analysis (PCA), the PTR-TOF-MS
monitoring of VOCs in the roaster off-gas, now from a Probat Colorette 3b. Except for the roast profiles at the end of each of the 42 roasting
using a PTR-TOF-MS35. The PTR-TOF 8000 from degree, the off-line data (GCMS and sensory) will experiments with the corresponding off-line
Ionicon Analytik GmbH achieves a detection not be discussed here and will be the subject of measured roast degrees. This generated a
limit of better than ppbv for a time resolution of a forthcoming publication. 3D-space, defined by the three first principle
one second, and a mass resolution of up to 5500 On-line PTR-TOF-MS data: Out of hundreds components PC1, PC2 and PC3, as shown in
m/Δm (FWHM)4,36. Figure 2 (opposite) depicts of m/z ion signals monitored by PTR-TOF-MS Figure 5 on page 26.
the analytic approaches implemented in this during each roasting cycle, traces were Once the PTR-TOF-MS were calibrated
most recent study. grouped into 23 different characteristic against roast degree, on-line recorded

Process monitoring of coffee roasting

by PTR-TOF-MS
Arabica green coffee beans from Guatemala,
from the growing region of Antigua, were used
throughout all roasting experiments. Roasting
was performed on a Petroncini TT 15/20 drum
coffee roaster with a capacity of 15-20 kilograms
per batch. Batches of 15.6 kilograms green
coffee were roasted at three different hot-air
FIGURE 4 The m/z time–temperature profiles of two selected lead traces are shown. For each high,
inlet temperatures (high (H), medium (M) and
medium and low hot air inlet temperatures, the profiles to a light, medium and dark roast degree are
low (L)) and each to three different roasting essentially overlapping in both cases
degrees (dark (D), medium (M) and light (L)). To
monitor each roasting cycle, the roaster was families using statistical approaches 35. For PTR-TOF-MS profiles can be projected in real-
fitted with several sensors, as outlined in Figure each family, a lead trace was selected (often the time onto the 3D space of the first three
2 opposite. Table 1 on page 23 summarises the most intense m/z signal in each family) principle components and the roasting process
characteristic parameters for each roasting and included in the following PCA analysis. monitored on-line for the roast degree. This is
process, whereas Figure 3 (opposite) shows the Figure 4 shows two characteristic m/z lead shown as a yellow trace for a roasting process at
experimentally measured time-evolutions of PTR-TOF-MS time-intensity ion traces. They a medium hot air inlet temperature. The trace
T2 for the various roasting profiles. demonstrate two examples of very different initially evolved through a drying phase. Later,
As outlined in Figure 2 (opposite), two time-intensity behaviours. an abrupt turn marks the transition to the
different types of data were collected during the In order to develop a predictive model and exothermic phase, which is characterised by a
roasting cycles. Off-line data: roasted coffee at ultimately a process control for a consistent sudden change in the VOC profile. The following
the end of each roasting experiment was roast degree, the on-line measured time- phase of the roasting, represented by a straight
analysed off-line by (i) gas-chromatography intensity profiles of the PTR-TOF-MS signals trajectory in the 3D-PCA space, reflects the
mass-spectrometry (GCMS), (ii) profiled by a were calibrated for the roast degree. This was exothermic phase of the roasting. Then, a
human sensory panel and (iii) the roast degree accomplished by linking, via a principle second abrupt change in trajectory reflects the

REFERENCES

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References continued on page 26

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first pop and a second sudden change in the calibrated for the roast degree, based on the roast degree, with a precision better than ± 1
VOC profile. The following and final phase then calibration points established in the first phase Colorette roast degree.
brings the beans from an initially light roast of the experiments. The trajectory moves This research demonstrates that a time-
towards progressively darker roasts. In this precisely through the calibration points, resolved analysis of the VOC profiles in the
phase of the roasting process, the trajectory of allowing real-time following of the roasting off-gas of a coffee roaster by PTR-TOF-MS
the PTR-TOF-MS in the 3D PCA space is process and halting the roasting at a desired provides a detailed picture of the evolution
of the roasting process and allows establishing
a real-time process control tool that ensures
highest consistency of the roast degree.

BIOGRAPHY
Dr. Chahan Yeretzian is Head of the
Analytical & Physical Chemistry Group at
the Zurich University of Applied Science
(ZHAW) in Wädenswil. A major focus of
his research is the chemistry and
technology coffee. He established
the first university degree on coffee
(www.icbc.zhaw.ch/coffee), and is board member of the Swiss
Chapter of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE).
Dr. Yeretzian received his PhD in Chemistry from the University
of Bern, Switzerland. A two year post-doctoral position at the
University of California, Los Angeles (UCLA), and a subsequent
Alexander von Humboldt Junior Award for a two year
Fellowship at the Technical University of Munich,
complemented his academic education. From 1995 to 2008, he
held various R&D management positions at Nestlé. In 2008,
he joined the faculty of the Institute of Chemistry and
Biological Chemistry at ZHAW.
Dr. Yeretzian is co-author of more than 100 scientific
publications and book chapters, co-editor of a book entitled
‘Expression of Multidisciplinary Flavour Science’ and regularly
FIGURE 5The 42 calibration experiments, conducted at three different roasting temperatures and to three invited by both specialised and mainstream media to
final roast degrees generated a 3D space, represented by the three first principle components PC1, PC2 contribute articles and interviews around the subject of coffee.
and PC3. Inverted triangles mark the dark roast degree, square medium and circle light, respectively.
The hot-air inlet temperature is marked as follows: high (black), medium (grey), low (white) [email protected]

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