Demi
Demi
Suleyman M. Demi
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Introduction
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S. M. Demi (B)
Department of Social Justice Education of the Ontario Institute for Studies
in Education and School of the Environment, University of Toronto, Toronto,
ON, Canada
e-mail: [email protected]
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and highlights link between food and culture and the effects of coloniza-
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tion on food systems of the colonized countries and the consequences on
environment. lu y
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I argue that one of the colonial legacies visible among Indigenous com-
munities is the destruction of the cultures of the people. The erosion
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erosion of culture leached upon the Indigenous people globally has culmi-
nated in the loss of identity and self-esteem among some communities of
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Indigenous people. However, food cultures have not only been influenced
by colonization but also capitalism. Since the introduction of commercial
agriculture, new technologies were introduced to address what the West-
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period of most crops and animals to allow farmers to produce food to meet
immediate market demand. Thirdly, the introduction of storage facilities on
and off-farm to prolong the shelf life of most farm products. The absence of
these conditions hitherto made farming unattractive for business-oriented
individuals and corporations. As some would describe agriculture as the
most significant breakthrough in human history (Crosby, 2003), others
considered agriculture as “the worst mistake in the history of human race”
(Diamond, 1987, p. 95).
9 RECLAIMING CULTURAL IDENTITY THROUGH DECOLONIZATION … 119
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ple defines their food system and food system of a group of people consti-
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tutes their culture. Hence, reclaiming past Indigenous food cultures, there-
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fore, constitutes a significant act of decolonization. As argued by Fanon,
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colonialism attacks the present, the past and the future; hence, we cannot
fully decolonize without reclaiming the past. He wrote:
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…colonialism is not content merely to impose its laws on the colonized coun-
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try’s present and future. Colonialism is not satisfied with snaring the people
in its net or of draining the colonized brain of any form or substance. With
a kind of perverted logic, it turns its attention to the past of the colonized
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people and distorts it, disfigures it, and destroys it. (Fanon, 1963, p. 149)
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started long ago since humans realized feeding themselves from the wild
was unsustainable as people begin to live in clusters. Historical accounts
have shown that long experimentation with what was in humans’ imme-
diate surroundings, as well as intuition and revelations from God, gods
and ancestors, determined what could be regarded as food (Logan, 2012).
Food has, therefore, been ingrained in cultures of most Africans and other
Indigenous communities across the globe.
Scholars have long argued that food is a crucial component of African
culture (Blair, 1966; Dei, 1989, 1991) and consequently, connected to
120 S. M. DEMI
local spirituality. Blair established the link between food and the culture
of African people: “food habits are a basic part of every African culture.
They have developed over a long period in response to the number of
primary factors. The foods eaten are determined by environment, cultural
contact and migration, barter, and trade” (Blair, 1966, p. 53). The process
of acquiring food in Africa takes place in a manner that ensures the con-
tinued existence of peace, harmony and sanctity in nature. Sustainability
of the environment constitutes a critical issue considered in food produc-
tion and consumption practices. This is linked to the Africans’ belief and
spirituality that humans are connected to the earth; hence, their existence
depends on respect accord to the earth. Such belief also admonishes local
people to make peace with plants, animals (both domesticated and wild),
stones and so on (Wangoola, 2000). The soil was assumed to be a deposit
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account from which the account holders (people) drew only part of the
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accrued interest without ever touching the principal (Wangoola, 2000).
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Hence, apart from nutritional value, food helps to shape individuals’ lives,
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personal dispositions and spiritual connection. The next section, therefore,
presents my self-reflection on food-related issues.
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Self-Reflection
Growing up in Ghana, I was sent to live with my grandmother. As one
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also learned that sometimes, foods were prepared to meet the physiological
needs of people. Hence, if someone fell ill, she or he was not supposed to
eat certain foods, particularly those with higher fat content. Again, the food
for expectant mothers or women who had just delivered a baby were dif-
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labor some local herbs to eat and within a few minutes, the baby would be
delivered without any further complications. My grandmother used these
herbs to deliver several babies without any incident or complication.
I grew up with the understanding that food is eaten to satisfy hunger or
heal people from sickness. But my experience in the Eurocentric boarding
school structured by the British was different. There were strict rules and
regulations regarding dinner time and eating manners, and students were
prohibited from carrying food outside the dining hall. The food we were
exposed to was the ones sanctioned by the board of directors of the school as
a balanced diet and Indigenous African grains such peal millets, sorghum
and AILVs were considered of less value and hence, were absent in our
menu. The decisions as to what we ate were entirely in the hands of the
school authorities with little to no input from students. Eating with the
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hands was considered archaic—hence, the need for authorities to orientate
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us by taking us through lessons to mimic the Western style of eating. How
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to hold and where to place a fork, knife and spoon on a dining table and
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how to sit at the dining among other things were the pre-occupation of
our matron and kitchen staff who themselves had become “a commodity
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with the Westernization were laughed at and labeled village folks. Our
communal way of eating was broken and individualism encouraged. Each
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student had his/her unique cup, plate, spoon, fork, etc., for which they
were not transferable.
At the end of my boarding school experience, my eating habits and
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the wonder plant is no other plant than “Zoogala gandi” that we were
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exposed to several years earlier. This encouraged me to value our food
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cultures bequeathed to us by our ancestors.
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The connection between people and food was demonstrated in one of
the courses I took—“Cultural Knowledges, Representation and Colonial
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commonly found in Latin America, the Caribbean and most parts of Africa.
At the end of our presentation, we asked the class to comment or ask ques-
tions regarding our presentation. Surprisingly, among the entire exhibits,
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the one that caught the attention of students who originated from the
Caribbean and Africa was the pepper. Most of the “after the presentation”
discussions centered on the pepper. Many students showed how the pep-
per had re-connected them to their ancestral home and brought back some
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the tales of hunting will always glorify the hunters.” Drawing from these
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proverbs, it follows that stories of racialized groups told by dominant are
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often couched in a way to portray a state of hopelessness or helplessness
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to warrant colonial intervention. Prah (1997) argues that minority groups
need to resist the insulting notion that others know them better than they
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food crops for human sustenance. However, this chapter limits its critiques
on views expressed by two Western food scholars. Diamond (1997) argues
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that Africa was not blessed with the most promising domesticable food
plants and animals in global terms; as a result, few crops and animal species
were exported from the continent. Crosby (2003) corroborated Diamond’s
(1997) assertion that Africa lacked suitable crops:
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Though they came in chains part of their fauna and flora came with them
including African rice, okra, yams, black-eyed peas, millets, sorghum, sesame
and the pathogens that cause yellow fever and malaria. Coffee came from
Africa though not in slave ships. (McNeil, 2003, as cited in Crosby, 2003, p.
xiii)
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This quote from McNeil highlights the fact that even in shackles, the
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enslaved Africans relied on their Indigenous food contrary to Crosby’s
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(2003) accounts. Preserving their foods as enslaved Africans did in Ameri-
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cas demonstrates Indigenous people of Africa resisted the colonizing power
while maintaining a significant source of sustenance under colonization. As
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enslaved Africans practiced their Indigenous food cultures (e.g., soul food)
in captivity in the Americas, it re-established their spiritual link to conti-
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nental Africa.
Crosby’s argument that “Very few of man’s cultivated plants originated
in Africa” requires further interrogation. Does Crosby (2013) suggest
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because how did Crosby account for many Indigenous foods consumed by
Africans which are not sold on the world market? For instance, in traditional
communities, what constitutes a food to a particular group of people can
be object of worship for some, or taboo to others or pet to many (Demi,
2014).2 The Western hegemony in the categorization of plants and ani-
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mals as food in global terms was challenged by Sahlins (1976) who argues
“the exploitation of American environment, the mode of relation to the
landscape, depends upon the models of a meal that includes a central meat
element with periphery support of carbohydrate and vegetables” (p. 176).
Sahlins (1976) further argues that the humans would have witnessed an
entirely different structure of agricultural production and articulation to
the world market if for instance Western countries particularly “Americans”
ate dogs and horses, both of which are edible in some parts of the world.
Food production, therefore, is governed by the cultural construction of
9 RECLAIMING CULTURAL IDENTITY THROUGH DECOLONIZATION … 125
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ney & Rosomoff (2010) and Inikori (1994) who corroborated Rodney’s
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argument by showing how slave trade drastically reduced the population of
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Africa and deprived some communities of exuberant farm laborers. There-
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fore, the slave trade partly necessitated the adoption of early maturing crops
like maize compared to millet and sorghum or less labor-intensive crops
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but also crops that can withstand environmental shocks (Logan, 2012).
Hence, there is an in-built mechanism in African Indigenous farming sys-
tems to ensure farm diversification and mixed cropping3 which contrasts
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the monocropping.4 The mixed cropping guards against total crop failure
during natural disasters such as drought, flood or bush fire because different
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Schmelzer and Omion (2003) found that out of 150 plant-based foods
used by humans, 115 (76.7%) originated from Africa. Additionally, the
world’s major regions of crop diversity include the Ethiopian highlands,
the Sahelian transitional zone, the delta of Niger River and the humid
forest zones of West and Central Africa (Kiambi et al., 2003). The term
“endemism,” which refers to the proportion of species not found anywhere
else in the world, is also high in Africa (Kiambi et al., 2003). It is estimated
that tropical Africa is endemic to 45% of crop species (Sayer, Harcourt, &
Collins, 1992). Researchers working at Plant Resource of Tropical Africa
(PROTA) have isolated 275 plant species as vegetables and 528 species
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argued that the persistent food insecurity reported in some parts of Africa
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was the result of abandoning African Indigenous food crops (AIFCs) that
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were suited to the African climate (Culwick & Culwick, 1941; Raschke &
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Cheema, 2007; Sambo, 2014; Smith, 2013). Another phenomenon that
contributed to the underutilization of AIFCs is the globalization of the
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nous crop species and their potential for local crop improvement (Ade-
booye, Ogbe, & Bamidele, 2003; Adebooye & Opabode, 2005).
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done with key considerations governed by norms, values and taboos that
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evolved from customs, traditions and cultures among Indigenous com-
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munities. These traditional rules and regulations were instituted to ensure
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the sustainability of the environment, mother earth and all that live within
her. The social structures of Indigenous people changed drastically with
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the onslaught of colonization. The food dynamics within the world par-
ticularly in Africa, Americas and other colonized places came to a drastic
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other resources” (M’bayo, 2003, p. 191). Mutwa (1999) argues that since
imperial forces of Europe began expanding their empires through the col-
onization of sub-Saharan Africa, ancient Indigenous knowledge including
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therefore, altered the fauna and flora of most colonized areas in the world.
As M’bayo succinctly put it:
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flow of resource from colonies to Europe remain intact. This is witnessed
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in most parts of Africa where forest reserves are being eroded annually and
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several wildlife species face imminent extinction as reported in some studies
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(Attuquayefio & Fobil, 2005; Wiafe, 2013). Slocum and Saldanha (2013)
revealed the fallacies in the description of the landscape of most colonized
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countries to pave the way for resource appropriation. They argue, “Cul-
tivation is strongly coded masculine labour; landscapes are called wild or
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virgin, awaiting the white man to penetrate, survey, and subdue them. A
field, like a woman, becomes barren” (p. 6). The notion that soils in devel-
oping countries, for example Africa, were poor but their forest reserves were
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considered wild and therefore good enough for exploitation was described
by Slocum and Saldanha (2013) as “productivism,” and it was criticized for
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creation and instructed them to subdue and rule over the earth, the Creator
spirit of Indigenous people gave no such right to humans. To the Indige-
nous people, humans are the most vulnerable and weakest link in the vast
chain of nature (Wangoola, 2000). The world was not for them to conquer
but to live in peace, harmony and respect (Wangoola, 2000). According
to many Indigenous stories, “the Creator instead instructs the plants and
animals to have pity on their younger siblings, the humans, and to teach
them how to live successfully with the rest of creation” (Bodirsky & John-
son, 2008, p. 2). To demonstrate the interconnection between humans, the
9 RECLAIMING CULTURAL IDENTITY THROUGH DECOLONIZATION … 129
earth, the plants and the animals, an old Kenyan woman showed how they
reciprocate the benevolence of the nature through some farming practices:
Carry some seeds with you. If you get to the farm before me, scatter the
seeds before you start your harvest. When you do that you are giving back
to the land. Give thanks to the Creator for providing for us, then you can
start your harvest. If you do not give back, next year I will have no food and
you will be far away to feel the effects of failing to observe one of our basic
principles of life. (Wane, 2002, p. 90)
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the ants, termite, insect, birds and all other animals, and those that enter
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the soil either germinate or turn into manure to feed the plants. This kind
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gesture ensures that the cycle of sustainability and reciprocity is intact. This
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type of knowledge is lacking in conventional agriculture where the desire to
make profit overrides any other considerations. The Indigenous measures
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the prior objective. As Orr (2004) argues, it is elusive to think that we can
manage the earth using appropriate scientific technologies. According to
Orr (2004), it is more beneficial to control human desires, our economy
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Conclusions
This chapter explored a wide range of issues regarding food habits and cul-
ture. The chapter critically examined misconceptions about African food
systems by Western food scholars and provided fact and figures to sup-
port the critiques. Contrary to popular views held by some Western food
scholars that Africa lacked suitable food crops and animal species, the
chapter demonstrated with ample findings from empirical studies that sug-
gest Africa is the hub of over half of the world’s food diversity. However,
the marginalization of African Indigenous food crops due to the global-
ization of the world food systems has contributed to the underutilization
130 S. M. DEMI
Notes
1. The phrase “Indigenous people” is used in this paper as an international
category.
2. For example, cattle are food for most people but an object of worship among
Hindus in Indian; dogs and cats are popular pets in Europe and the Americas
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but food for some tribes in Africa and some part of the world; and crocodiles
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(alligators) are delicacy for some tribes in Africa but they are totems for some
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tribes (e.g., my tribe)—hence a taboo to eat their meat or cross the water
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which was used to wash crocodile meat and thrown on the floor.
3. Growing of different types of crops on the same piece of land.
4. Growing a single crop on a piece of land which is the focus of Western agro-
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nomic practices.
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