Instructions for Use and Maintenance of

Aluminium Windows and Doors

1. Safety information

When using aluminium units, please take note of the dangers listed below.

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2. General Maintenance of Aluminium Windows, Doors, and Facade Elements

2.1 General Conditions

When using aluminium windows and doors, it is necessary to understand that they are high-quality products which
have to be properly maintained; however, they do not need so much maintenance as, let‘s say, wooden windows.
They are as simply maintained as plastic windows.

These products are sometimes damaged when a building is being constructed or when interior finishing work is being
performed. They may be splattered with grout, glass and frames may get scratched, and the moving parts may be
filled with construction debris.

After moving parts have been filled with dust and debris formed during wall plastering, luting, and polishing, the
fittings can get stuck, have difficulty opening/closing, and sometimes even break. Sashes may also become deformed
if windows are not closed properly.

During construction and interior finishing work, it is necessary to protect these products from plaster, filler or paint
getting onto painted surfaces or glass or into locks, pivots, and other accessories. KG Constructions covers its
aluminium windows, doors, and façade elements with a protective cover sheet that temporarily protects them from
possible minor damage and construction mixtures. It is advisable to take off the glued sheet not later than in six
months because there may be residual glue left from the cover sheet if it is kept on longer.

After the glass or frame has been scratched, the product is aesthetically damaged. These kinds of defects can rarely be
removed without replacing the product or part with a new one.

Because of an unsuitable microclimate, condensation may form on the surfaces of the framing and glass of these
products. This can cause the filling materials close to the insulating glass unit to become mildewed. For further details
on microclimate, see Section 4.

Attention!
• Condensation on the window is a sign that there is inappropriate temperature and moisture
content (microclimate) in the premises.
• Condensation formed on windows or doors may cause mildewing.
• When carrying out interior finishing or repair work, it is necessary to protect accessories from
debris, dust, glue, and paint. Otherwise the anticorrosive cover will be damaged or accessories
will be broken.
• If you cover windows, doors, or façade elements to protect them from damage during
construction or if you use shutters, be careful not to damage the glass or frame of the product.
• In order to protect the accessories of a window or door from breaking, do not overload the
window sash and do not support or raise it with any extra objects.
• Do not place any extra objects between the sash and the casing (do not pinch any wires or cables)
because this may result in the deformation of the frame or accessories of the window or door.
• In wintertime, regularly clean mud, snow, ice, sand, etc. from the threshold of an exterior door
and running tracks of sliding doors.
• Turn window and door handles only in the direction of their rotation and not more than is
necessary.

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2.2 General Information about Maintenance of Insulating Glass Units

An insulating glass unit is a product consisting of two or more panes with hermetically sealed spaces between them.
These hermetically sealed spaces can be filled with inert gas.

Insulating glass units are subject to various requirements including protection against natural hazards, heat insulation,
sound insulation, sun control, decorativeness.

Insulating glass units are one of the most important parts of a window or door. They must therefore be protected
against factors causing breakage.
An insulating glass unit forms the major part of a window. Its heat permeability and transparency characteristics are
therefore very important.

Attention!
• Do not stick any sheets on the glass (in particular on toned glass). In the case of different thermal
stresses, an insulating glass unit can break.
• The entire area of toned glass must be lit or left in a shadow because if only a certain part of its
surface is in a shadow, the glass will become unequally hot and could break.
• If glass is exposed to a temperature difference exceeding 36°C, the likelihood of thermal breakage
significantly increases.
• The distance between heating devices and the glass must be at least 30 cm. If the glass is
shatterproof, the distance must be at least 15 cm.
• Stoves and refrigerators must be at least 30 cm from the glass.
• The temperature of heating devices that are close to the glass must not exceed 65°C.
• When turning on the heating in the premises, increase the radiator temperature gradually rather than
rapidly.
• If you use heaters, do not direct the flow of warm air towards the glass.
• The presence of heating and air conditioning equipment close to the glass may also be a reason for
glass breakage.
• Thermal breakage may also be caused by insufficient heating in the premises (most often if there is no
heating during wintertime).
• The surface of the glass may not come into contact with internal or external blinds since the
difference in surface temperatures can result in glass breakage. The distance between blinds and the
surface of the glass must be at least 2 cm.
• The warranty provided does not cover thermal breakage, glass cracks caused by changes in pressure,
or blows.

A cracked insulating glass unit should be taped with thick adhesive tape at an angle of 90° to the direction of the
break. The floor should be covered with cardboard or some other material to protect the surface of the floor from
falling glass. Contact professional glazers or representatives of KG Constructions.

Warning!
Keep children away from cracked or broken glass!

The following physical phenomena may affect insulating glass units:

• Interference effect;
• Insulating glass unit (double glazing) effect;
• Anisotropy;

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Definitions:

Interference effect.
The interference effect may be visible in floating glass units. This effect manifests itself through colourful zones of
higher or lower intensity that change if the glass is pressed. Optical interference occurs due to waves of light
interacting with each other at one point. The effect is strengthened in the case of parallel or almost parallel glass
surfaces. The interference effect may be visible over the entire surface of the glass or part of the surface.
The interference effect occurs randomly and cannot be influenced.

Insulating glass unit (double glazing) effect.

An insulating glass unit has a closed volume of air or other gas. The state of the gas in the insulating glass unit is
estimated according to the altitude of the production site and atmospheric pressure and temperature existing during
production. If an insulating glass unit is mounted at a different altitude or if atmospheric pressure or air temperature
changes during use, the panes of an insulating glass unit become deformed, i.e. they become curved outwards or
curved inwards. This may cause distortions in the view through an insulating glass unit.

Reflections of various intensities may also be visible in insulating glass units. Reflections may be especially clear if
there is a dark background or if coated glass is used.

Anisotropy.
Anisotropy is a phenomenon characteristic of shatterproof glass and is caused by internal stress at the time the
glass is tempered. Due to anisotropy, dark circles or stripes may be visible and change depending on the angle of
viewing, whether glass is in polarised light, or whether things are viewed through polarised glass.

Polarised light is found in normal daylight as well. The degree of polarisation depends on weather conditions and
the position of the sun. The effect can be seen more distinctly when glass is viewed at a side angle or in insulating
glass units mounted upright in corner facades.

Attention!
All these phenomena are characteristic of insulating glass units and are not deemed defects.

2.3 Openable windows

Listed below are the most popular aluminium windows and doors opening schemes and explanations:

2.3.1 Opening of Turn Windows 2.3.2 Opening of Turn/Tilt Windows

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2.3.3 Opening of Tilt before Turn Windows

2.3.4 Opening of Casement Windows

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2.3.5 Opening of Outward Openable Windows

2.3.5 Opening of Tilt Windows and Detachment of Window Stay Arm for Cleaning

a) Window handle at the top a) Window handle at the side

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2.3.6 Opening of Tilt Windows with the Lever Handle and Detachment of the Handle for Cleaning

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2.3.7 Opening of Double Leaf Door

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2.3.8 Opening of Tilt and Slide Doors

2.3.9 Opening of Doors with Electric Opener

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2.3.9 Opening of Doors with Emergency Handles

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2.3.10 Opening of Folding Doors

Warning
Do not pinch your fingers and protect children from getting
injured while opening the door.

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3. Maintenance of aluminium windows, doors, and facade elements

The maintenance of aluminium windows, doors, and facade elements includes:

• cleaning the frame;
• adjusting hardware;
• oiling moving parts and closing points;
• inspecting spacers;
• cleaning and oiling spacers, cleaning transoms;
• inspecting and cleaning glass.

Attention!
Be careful when cleaning windows not to lean over the window too much. If necessary use
longer window wipers. Keep children under supervision while cleaning open windows.

3.1 Maintenance of aluminium facade and paint

Window maintenance shall be optimal if each time when cleaning windows you will clean the frames and
sealing elements. Use soft wipers having no rough components.

Hard-to-remove dirt, such as remains of parget, leach or other similar material may be removed best by a
wooden or synthetic spatula.
Oily stains may be removed by a mild, non-abrasive alkaline cleaner.

Attention!
Read the directions for use before applying a cleaner

The frame must not be cleaned with the following:

• tools with sharp edges or rough surfaces, such as knives, putty knives, steel brushes, scrubbing brushes or
other tools that may scratch surfaces.
• aggressive cleaners, such as nitro-solvents nail enamel remover, etc. that may also irretrievably damage the
surfaces of frames.

3.2 Maintenance of hardware

High quality hardware is installed in your windows. For it to operate smoothly, it must be cleaned and oiled. It
is therefore necessary to perform the following tasks once a year, preferably (in autumn or spring):

• Using a dry cloth, clean the dust or other debris from the
hardware.
• Check whether the hinges of windows and doors are
firmly fixed and not loose. If they wobble or there is a
necessity, they must be replaced. These are the safest
parts of a window.
• If the hinges do not have protective covers, make sure
that the finger of the upper hinge is fully tucked in.
• Only use mild, non-abrasive cleaners (e.g. soapy water)
to clean the hardware. Acid or abrasive cleaners may
damage the anticorrosive cover of the hardware and it
may start corroding. Dry using a dry cloth.
• After cleaning the hardware, lubricate the moving
components and closing spots with grease or oil (see the
picture). Use non-acidic and tar-free grease or oil. Oil
designed for sewing machines is suitable.

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 • Oil door lock tenons ( ) and latch ( ) by dislodging
them first. Push them to and fro for oil to get into the
mechanism of the lock.
• To ease the rotation of the key cylinder, it is advisable to
use graphite powder.

Attention!
Only qualified specialists of windows producers may perform the following tasks:
• Replace hardware;
• Hang and unhang the flexible parts of windows (sashes);
• Adjust the hardware (especially scissors, hinges).

If a moving part gets stuck, make sure that there is no paint, dust, stones or debris left in the moving components of
hardware. These must be removed, and the moving parts must be cleaned and oiled. Otherwise the hardware may be
damaged. Moreover, if the hardware is closed incorrectly, the sash may be deformed or fall out of the window frame.

3.3 Maintenance of spacers and transoms

In the sashes of your windows and doors, there are rubber spacers that must be
lubricated at least twice a year with silicone grease (for example, the type used for
lubricating the spacers of car doors). This will protect the spacers from cracking,
and they will remain elastic, will not freeze in winter, and will lie against the frame
so that the seal of the window will be hermetic.
When cleaning the windows, you should also clean the spacers. Debris may deform
them or cause them to break.

While inspecting and cleaning the spacers, you will easily identify whether the
drainage strips ( ), which are in the lower part of the frame, are blocked. If there
is any debris or dirt in the strips, it must be removed so that water flows to the
outside; otherwise it may accumulate in the frame and flow into the premises.
The aforementioned strips may also be found at the bottom of the sashes.
If the strips are blocked, water starts accumulating between the frame and the
insulating glass unit. Sitting in water, the insulating glass unit eventually starts
getting condensation between the panes, the selective cover begins oxidizing, and
stains emerge.

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3.4 Maintenance of insulating glass units

Insulating glass units do not need special maintenance. They must simply be protected from factors that could cause
them to split. Besides the aforementioned factors, insulating glass units must be protected against slamming shut,
which may be caused by draughts. Don’t leave open windows or doors unattended, and on very windy days don’t
open them at all.

If there are oily stains on the surface of the glass after several cleanings with chemical cleaners, this means you are
using an inappropriate cleaning agent. Try to remove stains with another glass cleaner.
Glass must not ever be cleaned using alkaline solutions or acids, especially hydrofluoric acid or cleaning agents
containing fluorine. These solutions may affect the glass and cause permanent damage.
Please read the instructions before using glass cleaners.

Cover cracks in insulating glass units with wide sticky tape in various directions across the split and cover the floor
with cardboard or other material so that falling glass will not damage the floor. Contact professional glaziers or KG
Constructions or its agents.

Warning
• Don’t clean windows with powder or abrasive cleaners or alkaline or acid cleaners (especially those
containing hydrofluoric acid).
• Never clean hard-to-remove dirt (remains of paint, construction mortars, etc.) with sharp tools (rough
sponges, wipers, scissors, knives, razors, etc.). By using such tools you may scratch the surface of glass.
• Cement mortar and alkaline-based constructional materials must be removed immediately. Otherwise the
surface of the glass may become corroded or matted.

4. Information about condensation on windows

• What is condensation?
The dampness that collects on windows and doors is condensation. It comes from water droplets present in the air. It
may collect both on outer and inner glass surfaces.

• Why does condensation occur?

When warm damp air touches cooler surfaces, any excess water condenses in the air. This happens because the cool
air next to cool surface cannot hold the water as warm air would. Condensation on windows may be a warning sign. It
may mean that the humidity of the inner premises may affect other places in your house.

• Where does internal humidity come from?

There are many factors causing humidity increase in the air. A family of four adults normally perspiring and breathing
exude approximately 0.3 litres of water droplets per hour. If you cook meals three times a day, approximately 2.3-2.8
litres of water droplets are released into the air. Taking a shower produces an additional 0.3 litres of water droplets.
Moreover, all other activities using water (dish-washing, washing the floor, etc.) releases dampness into the air.
Everyday a family of four adults exudes approximately 60 litres of water droplets into the air in the house. The more
water there is in the air, the larger the relative humidity of the air. Additional sources of humidity are houseplants,
burning natural gas, drying clothes, etc.

• What is the relative humidity of the air?

The air may contain a certain limited amount of water droplets depending on the temperature of the air. When air of
a certain temperature is maximally saturated with water droplets, the relative air humidity is 100%. When there is a
half of the maximum amount, the relative humidity of the air is 50%. Cooler air is able to carry fewer water droplets
than warmer air. Therefore, air with a temperature of 10°C and 100% humidity contains less water than air at a
temperature of 20°C and 100% humidity.

• How can one measure the relative humidity of the air in premises?
You may use a humidity meter, which is called a hydrometer. This is not an expensive device and is available in most
household goods and hardware shops.

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 • What are signs of excessive humidity?
The formation of condensation on windows often signals excessive humidity in the premises. Check whether there is
water or ice on your windows and whether there are damp areas on your ceiling or in your closet. Paint blisters may
also be a sign of excessive humidity.

• Does relative humidity affect human health?

Most scientists and doctors agree that relative air humidity has some effect on human health. The recommended
humidity in inner premises is from 30% to 50%. According to the findings of World Health Association specialists,
relative humidity higher than 65% increases the risk of upper respiratory diseases. Moreover, such humidity negatively
affects the health of people having asthma or various allergies. Relative humidity lower than 30% may cause dry, itchy
skin.

• What can excessive humidity do to my dwelling?

Excessive air humidity accelerates the physical deterioration of a building. Humidity gets into walls and other parts of
a building. It may accumulate in empty cavities and freeze during cold periods. As water turns to ice it enlarges and
over the years slowly damages structures. During warm periods it melts and dampens the ceiling and walls. Moreover,
when humidity is excessive, mildewing appears.

• Does condensation form only in winter?

Condensation usually forms in winter, but it may also form when humidity in the air touches surfaces that have a
temperature lower than the dew point (the temperature at which air becomes saturated and produces dew). For
example, on cold winter days the humidity of warm inner air may condense on the cooler surface of the glass.
Occasionally, in autumn or spring (and rarely on hot and humid summer days) outside condensation may form on
windows. Usually, this shows that the window is keeping the heat inside.

• Does the amount of condensation depend on the type of building?

Usually it does. Earlier, when saving energy was not a concern for the majority of people, buildings were not as
hermetic as buildings constructed today are. Insulation materials were simple. Walls and ceilings were made of more
porous materials, and windows were non-hermetic and kept in several times less heat than modern windows do.
Humidity in the air could therefore easily move in and out of buildings. Because of new construction technologies and
insulating materials, modern buildings are much more hermetic and economic with respect to energy consumption.
Modern windows are hermetic and help save heat. In hermetic premises, humidity from the bathroom, kitchen,
laundry, plants, people, etc. increases the relative humidity of the air. In certain conditions, this humidity may become
harmful and damaging.

• How are humidity and comfort related?

Whether you feel comfortable at home depends on several factors, including temperature, air circulation, the
temperature of surfaces in the premises, lightness, and the intensity of the sun. Since humidity is one of the main
factors contributing to comfort, you must carefully inspect and regulate its level both in winter and in summer. Some
people think that increased humidity provides more comfort in winter. They believe that damper air is easier to
breathe. Nevertheless, in overly humid premises the human body does not release the necessary amount of humidity.
Moreover, this increases the risk of catching cold. It is a fact that sometimes there is a need to humidify air
additionally since overly dry air also affects the human body negatively. You should therefore inspect the environment
of your home and try to make it comfortable and favourable for the health of you and your family. Most people feel
comfortable when the relative humidity of the air at home is 30–50% and the temperature is 20–22°C. All of you have
probably experienced discomfort in summer when the temperature and the humidity are very high. To improve the
quality of work, sleep, and their own wellbeing people more and more often use air conditioners, the main purpose of
which is to remove excessive humidity from the air in the summer. Feeling good in summer depends on several
factors: air temperature, the temperature of surfaces, relative air humidity, air circulation, and the direct sun
radiation. Most people will feel good in summer if the relative humidity of the air inside is 25–55% and the air
temperature is 22–28°C.

• May I reduce the temperature if I have increased the relative humidity of the air and thus use less heat?
You may think that there is a relation between humidity and warmth, but the human body quickly adapts to changes
in the humidity level. If you feel cold when it is 18°C, the amount of humidity will not have any significance. You will
feel cold whether the humidity is higher or lower.

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 • How can I reduce humidity in the premises (besides switching off the humidifier)?

Ventilate the premises regularly and when the activity in your house is more active (there are more people in
the premises, more dishes are being prepared in the kitchen, you wash clothes more often and dry them
inside) you should ventilate rooms more often. (If there are air vents in the windows, that does not mean
that it is enough to ventilate the rooms. It depends on the lifestyle of your family.) While ventilating the
premises, turn off all heating devices or change their operation mode, thus saving energy.

Don’t dry anything on heating devices near windows (dry clothes in the bathroom, on the balcony, or other
places intended for such activity).

While cooking food in the kitchen, use a cooking vent. While bathing or taking a shower, turn on the
ventilators till the mirror stops steaming up. Be careful and don’t use ventilators too long—they may
overheat.

Don’t keep firewood at home or in basements. They release humidity while drying.

Don’t keep too many plants.

If there is mechanical ventilation system installed in your house, make sure that fresh air gets inside.

If the temperature outside is falling you should reduce the level of humidity in your house. You may do this
by reducing the number of sources of humidity.

• Does the amount of condensation depend on the type of window?

Oriel and glasshouse windows steam up more often because the air circulation near the surfaces of windows is not
sufficient. Moreover, they are cooler since they do not have direct contact with the outer walls of the building. In such
cases it is recommended to use additional electric blowing warmers, which improve the circulation of air near
windows. High windows (window-cases) steam up more often if the frame of the window is not heated up enough.

• Do curtains, rollers, and inner blinds influence the amount of condensation on windows?
Curtains and other window covers may increase the potential for the formation of condensation since they obstruct
the circulation of warm air near window surfaces. When curtains are closed or rollers or blinds are pulled down,
windows may therefore steam up more quickly.

• Why does a strip of condensation of approximately 3 cm form around the edge of the glass?
If a strip of condensation of similar width forms around the edge of the frame and glass, it may be due to the fact that
the frame of the insulating glass unit is made of aluminium and aluminium cools the glass while conducting cold. The
condensation forms in the colder place of the glass. Since in the middle of the glass the temperature is higher than at
the edge of the glass near the frame of the packet, it does not steam up. The strip of condensation does not mean that
the window is of lower quality or that it has let cold in. Often it is recommended to use plastic frames (Swisspacer™ or
TGI) instead of aluminium. Plastic sustains the heat far better, the surface of the glass near the frame is warmer, and
the possibility of condensation forming is therefore reduced. Due to the same reasons, the thermal characteristics are
also better.

• Why does condensation form inside the window (inside the sash)?
All the moving parts let in some air. When warmer and damper air touches cooler air or cooler surfaces, it releases
humidity when cooling. This humidity becomes condensation on window frames and the inner sides of sashes. For
condensation not to accumulate on these surfaces of the window but to flow to the outside, weather channels are
installed in the aluminium frame. If the channels are blocked, condensation may accumulate inside the frame. In this
case, any accumulated water may flow inside the premises or freeze during cold periods and damage, deform, or even
break the window. It is therefore important not to forget to check whether these channels are blocked with dirt or
debris.

• Why does condensation form on the outside of the windows?

Dew on the outside of the windows is a natural phenomenon. This happens to most outside surfaces when their
temperature falls below the dew point. And this does not mean that your windows are of bad quality. In fact,
steaming on the outside shows that the window is holding warmth inside (warmth does not get to the outer surface of
the window).

• Are there cases when condensation on windows is temporary?

There are three cases when condensation on windows is temporary:
1. New construction or repair work or decoration: wood, plaster, cement or other building materials that were
used while constructing or renovating the building are great sources of humidity. After the heating season
starts, the humidity in the materials is released. Usually this kind of drying takes one heating season.
2. Heating season: At the beginning of the heating season, there is a possibility that temporary condensation
will appear. During damp summer days, buildings absorb a certain amount of humidity that disappears after
several weeks of heating.

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 3. Temperature fluctuation: A sudden fall in the outer or inner temperature may also cause the formation of
temporary condensation during the heating season.

• Why does condensation form between the panes of the insulating glass unit?
The formation of condensation between the panes of the insulating glass unit is a most unpleasant and annoying
problem. This not only obstructs the view through the window, but also may leave stains on the surface of the glass
inside the insulating glass unit. This formation of condensation shows that the seal of the unit is damaged. The seal of
the insulating glass unit holds the gas the unit is filled with. Thanks to it, the insulating glass unit does not lose its
thermal characteristics for a long time. Usually the seal is not hermetic because of a defect in the production of the
insulating glass unit. In this case, considering the warranty provided by the producer, one should contact the producer
and the unit will have to be replaced. Nevertheless, the seal is sometimes damaged because of an excess of water on
the frame near the unit. Water can accumulate when the channels on the frame are clogged (it would be visible from
below). Eventually the water permeates the seal and causes condensation to form inside the panes of glass. In this
case, the defect is not considered to be covered by warranty because the owner is responsible for this problem. In
order to avoid such problems, one should inspect the channels in the frame to make sure they are not blocked and
water cannot permeate the parts of the window (between the glass and frame).

• How should you ventilate your dwelling?

In the morning it is advisable to ventilate the premises by opening windows for about 20
minutes (especially the bathroom and bedroom).
If there are large air vents in your windows, they do not guarantee total and sufficient
ventilation of the dwelling. Ventilate the premises 3–4 times per day. The premises may
be ventilated more quickly by making a draught. Ventilate premises after cooking food
and after taking a shower or bath.
While ventilating your dwelling, reduce or turn off the heating. While ventilating, warm,
damp air goes outside and fresh, cool dry air goes inside the premises. To warm up the
damp air, you consume more energy than while heating dry, fresh air.
Heat premises gradually. If the temperature at night is lower than 5°C, there is a
possibility for condensation to form on cooler surfaces (in wall corners, windows, etc.)

• How can you eliminate excess humidity?

The areas in which excess humidity is constantly concentrating (bathroom, kitchen) must be ventilated regularly. This
means that the doors of these rooms must be closed during ventilation so that damp air does not pervade the entire
dwelling. Using compound doors between the bathroom and the hallway or removing kitchen doors is not
recommended. After washing and cooking, it is necessary to open windows widely but doors must be properly closed.
The same rules also apply to bedrooms. At night a considerable amount of humidity gets to the air because of
breathing and evaporation from the skin. Humidity is present not only in the air, but also on furniture, bedding,
carpets and curtains. You can remove it only by ventilating premises regularly.

Factors affecting the amount of humidity

The amount of humidity released, g/h

Factor / doer Activity
(from–to)
Usual movement 30 60
Human Physical work of average intensity 120 200
Hard physical work 200 300
Bathroom Approx. 700
Shower Approx. 2600
Bathroom Drying laundry (approx. 4.5 kg)
Wringed laundry 100 200
Non-wringed laundry 200 500
Cooking 600 1500
Kitchen
Average amount in kitchen Approx. 100
Houseplants Domestic flowers 5 20

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5. Permissible defects, warranties and terms

5.1 Permissible defects in insulating glass units

Due to production processes and technology certain defects in glass and insulating glass units are permissible and
do not constitute the basis for warranty services. While checking for defects in insulating glass units, the view
through the insulating glass unit, i.e. looking at the background behind it rather than at reflections, is the most
important thing. Possible inadequacies are not specifically described or characterized.

The inspection of insulating glass units according to the table provided must be performed at a distance of 1 (one)
meter from the surface being inspected at a certain angle that corresponds to general usage of the premises. The
inspection should take place in diffused daylight (for example, with a cloudy sky), without direct sunlight or direct
artificial lighting.

Zone The following is permissible for one product:

Damages on the outside surface and on the edges, including pitting that does affect the stability of glass
and does not exceed the width of the sealant layer.
F
Pitting inside without fragments, filled with insulating material.
Spotted and surface compounds and scratches – without restrictions.
Inserts, blisters, dots, spots and similar defects:
2
when the area of the sheet is ≤1m : no more than four units, the diameter of each ≤3 mm
2
when the area of the sheet is >1m : no more than one unit, the diameter of each ≤3 mm for 1 meter of
perimeter
Dotted sediments between the panes:
2
when the area of the sheet is ≤1m no more than four units, the diameter of each ≤3 mm
2
R when the area of the sheet is >1m : no more than one unit, the diameter of each ≤3 mm for 1 meter of
perimeter
Sediments in the form of stains between the panes: light grey — no more than one, the area of which is
3
≤3 cm
Scratches: total length of scratches — no more than 90 mm, the length of one scratch — no more than 30
mm.
Micro scratches: impermissible in larger groups
Inserts, blisters, stains, and similar defects:
2
width of sheet ≤1 m : no more than two units, the diameter of each ≤2 mm
2 2
1 m < area of the sheet ≤2 m : no more than three units, the diameter of each ≤2 mm
2
H area of the sheet >2 m : no more than five units, the diameter of each ≤2 mm
Scratches: total length of scratches — no more than 45 mm, the length of one scratch — no more than 15
mm.
Micro scratches: impermissible in larger groups.
The maximum number of defective inadequacies — same as in zone R.
R+H Inserts, blisters, dots, spots, and similar defects, the measurements of which are 0.5–1.0 mm, are
permissible without any restrictions, except when they are in groups. “A group” means that at least four
blisters, dots, stains, or similar defects are located in a circle the diameter of which is ≤20 cm.
Notes:
Defects the measurements of which are ≤0.5 mm are not estimated. The diameter of such defects may not exceed
3 mm.

Laminated glass:
1. For every sheet of laminated glass in zones R and H, 50% more defects in groups are permissible.
2. In laminated glass with liquid tar, waviness due to the production process may appear.
Tempered glass:
1. Local waviness on the surface of glass must not exceed 0.3 mm in any section of 300 mm
In case of usual glass thickness of 6 mm to 15 mm, the curvature of glass surface (depending on the glass
thickness) must not exceed 3 mm per each 1000 mm section of glass edge.

Explanations:
F — sealant zone: width of 18 mm from the edge (no restrictions, except for mechanical damages).
R — edge zone, 10% of respective width and length excluding sealant zone (less strict requirements).
H — main zone (stricter requirements).

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5.2 Requirements for the profile paint

Visual defects in paint

While inspecting the defects of painted surfaces, certain rules must be observed. The surface must be observed at an
approximate angle of 60° at a distance of 3 (three) meters. During the inspection, the following defects must be
absent: excessive unevenness of surface, drops, blisters, foreign bodies in the paint cover, craters, matted spots,
perforations, scratches or splits.

The surface must have an even colour and shine.

If the surfaces are inspected at a construction site, then the paint surfaces must be inspected as follows:
- for outdoor constructions — at a distance of 5 (five) metres;
- for indoor constructions — at a distance of 3 (three) metres;

The thickness of paint

The thickness of powder paint must be no less than 60 μm. The thickness of paint is to be measured in no less than
five places and the result of each measurement must not be less than 80% of the minimal permissible thickness (i.e.
60 μm).

The shine of paint

After 1000 hours of accelerated atmosphere impact test according to EN ISO 11 341: 1997, the remaining shine must
be no less than 50% of primary shine, i.e. after three years the paint on the southern side must not lose more than a
half of its primary shine.

The reduction in paint shine will be even only if the unit is equally affected by the environment.

Resistance of paint to dissolvents and structural compounds

After 30 seconds of treatment with dissolvents, the cover may lose some of its shine after 30 minutes but will not
soften enough that it is possible to scratch the paint with ones nails.

If the paint comes into contact with structural compounds (cement, chalky compounds), it is likely to lose its shine and
colour permanently. This is not a defect covered by the warranty. It is therefore important to protect painted units
from the impact of such compounds.

Attention!
All the given characteristics of paint are guaranteed only if constructions above ground are properly
maintained. The warranty is valid only for products that are kept no closer to the sea or ocean than 500 m.

Warranty for paint is not valid if:

a) defects are caused by not observing basic technical norms and requirements during construction work;
b) defects are caused by contact with sealing sections or sealing materials or by contact with aggressive cleaning
materials;
c) defects are caused by heating painted surfaces to a temperature higher than 70°C;
d) defects comprise not more than 5% of painted surfaces;
e) defects are caused by to mechanical damage, heat, rubbing with abrasive materials, or the effects of chemical
materials.

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5.3 Warranties and terms

5.3.1 Warranty is provided for:

1. Aluminium profile – 5 years;

2. Insulating glass units – 5 years;
3. Door locks and door hinges – 1 year;
4. Window hinges, drivers, plates – 1 year;
5. Spacers – 5 years;
6. Paint – 5 years;
7. Handles – 1 year;
8. Door magnets – 1 year.

5.3.2 When selling products without installation service, KG Constructions guarantees the following for the
warranty period:

1. condensation should not form and no stains or dust should appear between panes of glass unit;
2. hinges should support the moving parts, should not break due to weight, and should not corrode;
3. environmental factors should not cause impermissible defects to the paint or frame;
4. aluminium profiles should not deform due to environmental conditions;
5. sealing spacers should keep their elasticity and should not split.

5.3.3 When selling products with installation service, KG Constructions guarantees the following for the warranty
period:

1. condensation should not form and no stains or dust should appear between panes of glass unit;
2. the insulating glass unit should not split due to natural deformations of the frame. Splits due to
thermal, mechanical, or pressure changes or increased load on the window do not fall into the category
of defects covered by this warranty;
3. when windows and doors are used properly, the hinges should support the moving parts and should
not break due to weight; they should not corrode; internal locking elements should not break;
4. environmental factors should not cause impermissible defects to the paint or frame;
5. aluminium profiles should not deform due to environmental conditions;
6. sealing spacers should keep their elasticity and should not split;
7. sealing between the junctions of the frame and sash and between the frame and wall should be
present (if the sealing of frame and wall is indicated in the contract).

Attention!
All warranties for all components of units are provided only if the units have been used
and maintained according to these instructions for use and maintenance.

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