Lei cht

Annet t e Sc hl ei c her
a. k . a. The Ner d Kni t s
Ver s i on 1. 0

Did you know that German has fewer words than English?
I was always amazed at that fact, but still it often proves to be true.
These socks are called "Leicht" and "Leicht" has two meanings in German. For one it refers to
weights and basically means "lightweight" - which is true for the motive because the girl is just
"leicht". However, these socks are not really "leicht" - which would mean easy.
If you have any questions or want to point out possible errors, please e-mail me at this address:
[email protected]
Happy knitting,
Annette

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 Abbr eviat ion s
L (also L1, L2, L3, ... see page 4) Light colour

D (also D1, D2, D3 ... see page 4) Dark colour

st(s) Stitch(es)

B (also B1, B2, B3 ... see page 4) Balloon

BOR Beginning of round

BOC / EOC Beginning of chart / End of chart

CO Cast On

K Knit

P Purl

K2tog Knit two stitches together

P2tog Purl two stitches together

SSK Slip 2 sts knitwise one by one and insert left needle from
left to right into both sts; knit both sts together through
back loop.

SSP Slip 2 sts knitwise one by one, slip them individually

purlwise back. Purl the two sts together through back
loop.

KFB Knit into the front and back loop of the stitch -> 1 st
increased

PFB Purl into the front and back loop of the stitch -> 1 st
increased

DS-> turn German short row using double stitch: work one stitch in
pattern, turn work. Pull yarn over the needle so a double
stitch is formed.

Rd Round

PM Place marker

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 Su pplies
Yar n Ch oices:
You will need:
- 100 g fingering sock yarn in a light colour suitable for the sky (e.g. light blue)
- 20 g fingering sock yarn in a dark , solid colour for the body of the girl and the earth (i.e. the
toe)
- Up to 34 scraps of fingering sock yarn in various colours with 2 g each (approx. 2 x 4 meters
/ 2 x 4.4 yards) for both socks.
If you don't want to go as colourful, you can also choose fewer colours (minimum is 4, so
neighbouring balloons can have a different colour each), just keep in mind that the scraps
then will need to be longer.
I used:
- Light colour: Eulenwolle 89/11, colour "Frischluft" with 400 m/100 g (437 yards/100 g)
- Dark colour: Eulenwolle 89/11, colour Anthrazit semisolid with 400 m/100 g (437 yards/100
g)
- a LOT of leftovers from previous projects
My gauge was: 47 rows and 30 sts for a square of 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 inches) in stockinette stitch.

Not ion s:
- Your favourite needles and a spare needle for the provisional cast on ( I used size 2.25 mm)
- tapestry needle
- removable stitch markers
- a set of coloured pencils

Som e n ot es on sizin g:
The sock will be as stretchy as a vanilla sock, however: please note that the leg of the sock will be 62
rows.
You can also cast on more than 60 stitches as long as the total number can be divided by 4. The pattern
will be centered on the front, so any additional stitches will be at the back of your sock, on the beginning
and end of each round. This is the region where you can increase or decrease your stitch count to make
your sock fit. Just make sure that the total number can be divided by 4 before you start the heel and toe
and that you always have at least 60 stitches.

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Pr epar at ion s
Cut your yarns to measurements and try out which way to handle them best: you might just let
them dangle, you could wind them into small balls or you could create little butterflies.

Have a look at the Chart (on the last page) and decide which colour will be going where. If you
are not sure, print out the page and colour the balloons using your coloured pencils. Make sure
neighbouring balloons have a good contrast.

The following measurements are for ONE sock ONLY.

For Balloons 2, 4, 7 and 15: cut 1.2 meters each of the colours you want to use
Balloon 6 will need 2 strands: one with 1.5 metres, one with 0.5 metres
For all other Balloons: cut 2 meters.
I'm referring to the Balloons as B1, B2, ... B17.
B6 consists of two parts: B6a and B6b.

Light colour:
Cut strands:
L3, L10, L13: 1.5 metres each
L4, L9, L11, L12: 1 metre each
L5, L6, L7, L8: 0.5 metres each
Divide the rest of the yarn into two balls (called L1 and L2).

Dark colour:
Only two strands of dark yarn are used at the same time, so divide your yarn into two balls. and
use them in turns to work sections D1, D2, D3 and D4.

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 In t ar sia in t h e r ou n d
Intarsia is a technique to work different colours without having any strands behind the motif -
this provides a very stretchy fabric, just like stockinette.
When working intarsia flat, all you need to do is: knit up to the colour change, twist your colours
and continue with the next colour. On the way back, you purl with one colour until the colour
change happens - and this is where your yarn is waiting for you to be taken up again. Twist your
yarns and continue with the second colour.

However, when knitting in the round, this will no longer work: in the second round the yarn
would not be at the place where the colour change happens, but at the end of that colour
section. Working intarsia in the round is therefore not possible. Instead, we use a little trick.
We basically knit the sock flat, with one row to be worked with knit stitches, then we change the
knitting direction and purl back until we reach the BOR again. This way, the yarn is always at the
right place.
However: in order to avoid holes at the BOR, we need to pre-twist the yarn. Before working the
first stitch, twist your working yarn with the yarn that will be the last section of the row to come.
This will look strange at first, creating a strand of yarn in the middle of the sock. Work your way
around, twisting yarns as you come to each colour change until you reach this last section. The
yarn you will be using for this last section is the "strange strand" in the middle of the sock. Pull a
little on it, so you can knit with it comfortably.
Then thread your previous colour through it in order to create a twist. Work your way until the
BOR, then pull at the strand you've been working with and pull it tight.

A video of this technique can be found here:

https://youtu.be/CNfXpqEJyKo

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 Th e Cu f f
Using two sets of needles, L1 and Judy's Magic Cast On, cast on at least 60 x 2 stitches (60
stitches per needle). You will not be touching half of these stitches until the cuff is completed.
Use the other half of the stitches, join in the round, making sure not to twist stitches. Place BOR
marker.

Note: if you decide to cast on more than 60 sts, please refer to the "notes on sizing" on page 3.
Then cast on 2 x YourStitchCount, e.g. 2 x 72 stitches.

I am currently knitting stitches.

Tu t or ial f or Ju dy 's M agic Cast On :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ItemF86f90

You can also use any other type of provisional cast on; just

make sure to get the stitches back on a second needle when

you have to knit the stitches together in Rd. 32

Knit stockinette stitch for 15 rounds.

Purl one round.
Knit stockinette stitch for 15 rounds.

Round 32:
Fold the cuff at the purl row.
Use one stitch from your working needle and one stitch from the CO edge and knit these
two together. Repeat this until you have used up all of the stitches from the CO needle.

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 Th e Leg
Work 4 rounds of stockinette.
If you want to lengthen your leg, you can either do so here or you can add additional rounds
between the balloon section and the girl.
With my gauge (47 rows/10cm), cuff + leg would sum up to approx. 17.5cm / 6.8"
Start working the Chart in ROWS. If you work more than 60 sts, center the chart (e.g. for 64
sts: k2, knit Chart, k2).
Please refer to page 5 and the linked video.
Stop working the Chart after completing row 62.

Th e Ner d Heel
Setup: Divide your stitch count by 4. Place instep markers after this amount of stitches on both
sides of the BOR. (For 60 sts, place a marker after stitches 15 and 45; for 72 stitches, place
markers after stitches 18 and 54)
Par t 1: Ext en sion r ow s - t h is par t is t o be w or k ed in r ow s!
For the heel, we will only be using L1 and there is no need to pretwist yarns as we are working in
rows.
You can use any short row method that you prefer. I like German short rows best, so I described
the heel using double stitches.
Set up 1 (RS): Knit to 2 sts before marker, KFB, DS->turn.
Set up 2 (WS): Purl to 2 sts before marker, PFB, DS->turn.
Row 1 (RS): Knit to 2 sts before last DS, KFB, DS->turn.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to 2 sts before last DS, PFB, DS->turn.
For low insteps: continue to part 2 (you have 2 DS on each side of the heel). For medium
insteps, work rows 1 and 2 two more times (4 DS on each side). For high insteps, work rows 1
and 2 four more times (6 DS on each side).
Basically, you can adjust the numbers as you want: the more rows you work, the higher the
instep will get.
Par t 2: t h is par t is t o be w or k ed in r ow s!
Place two heel markers: just after the last DS on the right side and one just before the first
DS on the left side. You will have exactly half of the stitch count you originally had between
markers.
Set up 1 (RS): Knit to 2 sts before heel marker, DS->turn. (1 stitch remains unworked).
Set up 2 (WS): Purl to 2 sts before heel marker, DS->turn.
Row 1 (RS): Knit to 1 sts before last DS, DS->turn.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to 1 sts before last DS, DS->turn.
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 Th e Ner d Heel (con t in u ed)
Please note: always count DS as one stitch!

Calculate: Divide the number of stitches between your heel markers by 3. (e.g. 30 stitches -->
10; 36 stitches --> 12. Round down if the result is not a natural number: 32 stitches --> 10,67 -->
10)

My number is:

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have this number of DS on each side between your two
heel markers.
(RS) Knit to 1 stitch before heel marker, knitting all DS as a single stitch as you come to
them, DS->turn.
(WS) Purl to 1 stitch before heel marker, working all DS as a single stitch as you come to
them, DS->turn.

Par t 3: t h is par t is t o be w or k ed in r ow s!
Add 1 to the above number.

My number is:
Set up 1 (RS): Knit to this number of sts before heel marker, DS->turn.
Set up 2 (WS): Purl to this number of sts before heel marker, DS->turn.
Row 1 (RS): Knit to DS, work DS as a single stitch, DS->turn.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to DS, work DS as a single stitch, DS->turn.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have two DS directly next to each heel marker.
Knit to BOR.

Remove heel and instep markers.

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 Th e Gu sset
Decide to which stitch count you will be decreasing (minimum 60 stitches - you can adjust your stitch count
here!). Count your stitches.

I currently have stitches.

Calculate where your decr ease markers will be:

Current stitch count minus desired stitch count. Divide this number by two and add 1.
Set a marker after this number of stitches on both sides of your BOR. (e.g. you currently have 72 stitches
and you want to decrease to 64 stitches: (72-64)/2 + 1 = 5; markers should be set after stitch 5 and stitch 67.)

Calculate where the chart will begin and place BOC / EOC markers:
Current stitch count minus 60. Divide this number by two.
Set a marker after this number on both sides of your BOR (e.g. you currently have 72 stitches --> (72-60)/2 =
6; place marker after stitch 6 and after stitch 66).
Please n ot e: if you decrease to 60 sts, the BOC/EOC will be set between BOR and your decrease marker. If
you decrease, the marker still needs to remain at its position, so it will move towards the BOR until it finally
reaches it. (Consider taking out the marker and just remember that BOC will be one stitch before your
decrease marker).

We will now decrease every other row, while working intarsia "in the round".

Please n ot e f or Ch ar t r ow 63: The stitches marked with a red outline will NOT be worked in intarsia technique.
We will strand them instead. This means: work sts 29 and 30 in D1, then let go of D1, knit the next two stitches
using L1, then knit stitches 33 to 38 using D1.
Work any remaining DS as a single stitch!
Round 1 (decrease round): Pretwist your yarn. Knit to 2 stitches before the decrease marker, K2tog, slip marker.
Work to BOC marker, slip marker. Work next row of Chart, slip EOC marker. Knit to decrease marker, slip marker,
SSK, knit to BOR.
Round 2 (even round): Pretwist your yarn. Purl to EOC marker (slipping markers as you reach them), work next
row of Chart, purl to BOR, slipping markers as you reach them.

Repeat decrease rounds 1 and 2 until only 2 stitches are left between decrease markers.
Remove decrease markers.

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Foot an d Toe
Continue to work in pattern until you reach the end of the Chart. Yellow lines are used to show where
strands of yarn are separated.
Start knitting in the round again and knit stockinette until you reach the toe section.

For stitch count 60, the toe will have 21 rounds.

If you have a bigger number, each 4 stitches will add another round to the toe. (e.g. if you are knitting 72
stitches, you would have 24 rounds for the toe).
Measure this number on your sole on a plain section and determine when you will need to start your toe.
With a gauge of 47 rows / 10cm (47 rows / 4 inches), this would mean a toe length of 4.5cm (1 3/4 inch) if
you are knitting with 60 sts.

Toe:
Cut L1 and attach D1.
Knit 1 round.
Place instep markers: Divide your stitch count by 4 and place instep markers after this number of stitches on
each side of the BOR. (e.g. 60 stitches: place marker after stitches 15 and 45). Knit to the first instep marker.
This is your new BOR.
Don't knit just yet - just read!
There will be two different rounds when working the toe: "standard rounds" and "decrease rounds".
Standard rounds: Knit
Decrease rounds: K1, SSK, Knit to 3 stitches before marker, K2tog, K1, slip marker, K1, SSK, Knit to 3
stitches before marker, K2tog, K1.

Now - back to your needles and resume knitting:

Work a total of 3 times:

1 decrease round, 2 standard rounds.

Work a total of 3 times:

1 decrease round, 1 standard round

Work decrease rounds until you have 16 stitches left.

Graft stitches and weave in ends.

If you have issues with tension, you might consider washing and blocking your socks before stitching the
lines.
Use your tapestry needle to stitch lines between the girl's hand and Balloons 12, 13, 14, 16 and 17, This
represents the lines the girl is holding. Refer to the picture above. You can work interrupted lines in order
to avoid too long floats (see example socks on page 1).
If you have not done so before, wash and block your socks now.
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Th e Ch ar t

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