CROCHET

PATTERN BOOK
SLEEVE
+ BAG BY BIYABIMI

crossbody to shoulder

2 compartments
2 pocket options
convertible straps
USAGE

Carry & protect your

book/journal/tablet/kindle on one
side along with your other things on
the other side with an adjustable strap
2 pocket options to spice it up

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

medium (weight 4) yarn - 390 g

6mm crochet hook
scissor
yarn needle
6 stitch markers

FEATURES

Main Panel (pages 1-5)

Outline (page 6)
Assemble (pages 7-11)
Convertible strap (pages 12- 14)
Pocket option #1 (pages 15-19)
Pocket option #2 (pages 20-24)
11 Crochet charts
61 Pictures, Graphic & Highlights
Checklist style pattern (check
off each step as you go)
Numbered rows
Explanation of steps,
techniques,
and materials
Tips and tricks
REVIEWS FROM OUR WONDERFUL TESTERS USING THIS PATTERN

Leslie: "I found the chart to be very helpful and I appreciated the color coding
there. The signs on the stitches were very clear, no confusion there. In all very fun
to make."

Dani: "I really had so much fun making the bag!! I'll make another one soon, but
studier. Your pattern is definitely a way to use up all my yarn stash. I love how well-
written the pattern was. the illustrations were also a huge help for me since I am a
bit of a visual learner. The graphics you provided also reassured my progress in
every step of the pattern."

Nakia: "I found all of the pictures extremely helpful and thought you took so much
time, care, and effort to put together the pattern. I was very impressed."

Renad: "It was a really nice pattern, you explained it very well and the pictures were
very helpful. Mine was really thick because of the yarn I used."
 Book sleeve + bag pattern

chart 1

content
38
37
36 Main Panel (pink) (pages 1-5)
35 Outline (green) (page 6)
34
Assemble (pages 7-11)
33
32 Convertible strap (pages 12-14)
31 Pocket option #1 (pages 15-19)
30 Pocket option #2 (pages 20-24)
29
28
27
26 Note
25
24
23
Please take a quick scan through all of
22 the pages to get yourself familiar before
21 starting. If you're printing this, I highly
20
recommend printing it in colors. This
19
18 pattern can be adjusted to whatever size
17 you want your bag to be (more
16 information on that later on). It's best to
15
use medium (weight 4) yarn and fold
14
13 them using the backward “Z” technique
12 provided on the next page or just simply
11 stack 3 strings of yarn together to make
10
9
them sturdier and to have more color
8 options. if you're using a heavier yarn like
7 weight 5-6 yarn, you’ll need to stack 2
6
strings together so there won't be big
5
4 holes where your smaller stuff can fall
3 out. The material of the yarn is all up to
2 your preference, but acrylic yarn will
1
offer more flexibility so it’ll be easiest to
work with. Let's get started!

chain
double crochet
single crochet
slip stitch

1
 note

The number of rows you make will affect the height of your bag, and the
more rows you have, the taller your bag will be.
It should be the same number of rows for part 1 & part 4 (10 rows x 2 parts =
10 rows) and (+) the same number of rows for part 2 & part 3 (9 rows
(bottoms included) x 2 parts = 18 rows) = 38 rows in total.
part 1 and part 4 should always be at least 1 row taller.

10
9
8
7 height
part 4

6
5
4

📎
3
📎 2 length
1
bottom 2 9
8
7
6
part 3

5
4 Place your stitch markers

📎
3 as you go will make
2 keeping track of your
fold
📎

1 progress a lot easier.

9
8
7 📎 = stitch marker
6
part 2

5
4

📎
3
2
📎

bottom 1 1
10
9
8
7
part 1

6
5
4
3
2
1
chart 2
2
To make yarn thicker, you can stack 3 strings of yarn from 3 separate skeins together
or you can use this backward “Z” technique by laying your yarn in a backward "Z"
shape (pic 1), then make your normal slip knot holding and using all 3 strings as if
they're one string (pic 2), then pull the string attached to your skein through the loop
(pic 3) and keep pulling around 7-10 times and you’ll ready to start. After a while, it’ll
become like (pic 2) again, you’ll just need to keep pulling it through the loop (pic 3) to
continue crocheting. ">" means tail ends (not attached to skein).

(pic 1)

(pic 3)

(pic 2)

(pic 4)

Main panel

CHAIN ROW: start by making 27 chains

this fits up to a standard hardcover book of up to 400 pages.
to adjust the length of your bag, you can increase or decrease the number of
chains. it won't affect the next steps that much, I will explain more as we
continue.

3
Main panel

ROW 1: skip 2 chains, then double crochet into the 3rd chain, and continue to
double crochet into each chain of this row (25 dc in total or your number of
chain minus 2 if you’re making your bag a different size)

ROW 2: after your last double crochet of row 1, make 2 chains and turn your
work. Skip the first stitch and continue double crochet into the second stitch
for 25 dc (the last dc is on top of a chain so it’ll be a bit tight, but make sure to
get it on the end of every row to make a perfect rectangle)

ROW 3: make 2 chains and turn your work, then make 1 dc into the second
stitch. Chain 3 and skip 3 stitches, then continue to make 1 dc into each stitch
for 16 dc, then chain 3 and skip 3 stitches. Continue to make 1 dc into each of
the last 2 stitches to finish up this row.

start here

4
Main panel

ROW 4-35: make 2 chains and turn your work, then make 1 dc into each stitch
starting on the second stitch (25 dc in total/row)

when counting your double crochet, don’t count the 2 chains we make at
the beginning of each row even though they look like a double crochet

ROW 36: make 2 chains and turn your work, then make 1 dc into the second
stitch. Chain 3 and skip 3 stitches, then continue to make 1 dc into each stitch
for 16 dc, then chain 3 and skip 3 stitches. Continue to make 1 dc into each of
the last 2 stitches to finish up this row.

start here

ROW 37-38: make 2 chains and turn your work, then make 1 dc into each stitch
starting on the second stitch (25 dc in total/row)

5
 Outline Outline 1 (highlighted green): after the
last double crochet of your last row,
turn your panel to the side horizontally.
chart 3
Before single crocheting into each row
that you've made, you'll need to lift
your hook just a bit to create a longer
stitch (this is really important because
it’ll help make your bag more relaxed
on the sides and not crunched up),
then do 1 single crochet stitch per row.
Your single crochet should look like
this. (38 sc)

(should be longer than a normal single crochet)

start here

(turned to the side horizontally)

Outline 2 (highlighted purple): turn your

panel vertically where you're looking at
the chain row, then start making 1 slip
stitch into each chain completely
(there will be 2 strings in each chain
and you'll need to put your hook
through both. This will create a more
continuous look.) (25 sl st)

Outline 4 (highlighted pink): Outline 3 (highlighted yellow): turn your

Turning your panel again in the panel on the side horizontally (you
same direction, make 1 slip should be turning your panel in one
stitch into each stitch. (25 sl direction this whole time). Single
st) (don’t cut anything yet ok? crochet into each row like you did in
we’ll go straight to attaching Outline 1.
the sides from here)
6
assemble

Now that you have your panel finished, we'll need to fold this panel into 2 connecting
pouches:

Fold 1: fold the panel in half (at the middle stitch markers)
Fold 2 & 3: fold at the side stitch markers lines (10 rows from the edges)
more pictures on the next page

chart 4

fold 1
bottom 1

bottom 2
part 1 part 2 part 3 part 4
📎

📎 📎 📎
fold 2

fold 3

7
assemble

fold 1: middle Attaching the 4 sides: :

stitch markers side 1: right after outline 4
side 2: continuing from side 1
side 3: the first stitch from outline 2
chart 5 side 4: continuing from side 3

1
Attaching side 1:
2
continue from outline 4, make 1 long
3 slip stitch by lifting your hook to pull
up a bit more yarn than usual into the
4 first stitch of outline 1 connecting the
whole outline (pic 5 & chart 5)
5
then make 1 more slip stitch the next
6
stitch (green #2 in chart 5)
7
the 3rd slip stitch is on the row with
8 the 2 holes and the 1st stitch of the
part next to it (green #3 + white #1)
9
then continue to make 1 long slip
10 stitch into 2 stitches
- green #4 to white #2
- green #5 to white #3
- green #6 to white #4
- green #7 to white #5
- green #8 to white #6
- green #9 to white #7
- green #10 to white #8
fold 3 / side 2 fold 2 / side 1

(pic 5) (pic 6)

8
assemble

chart 6

Attaching side 2:
1
2 continue from side 1, lift your hook to
pull out 1.5 inch of yarn, and turn your
3 work to side 2 (pic 7 & chart 6)

4 then make 1 long slip stitch into 2

stitches (chart 6)
5 - green #10 to white #8
- green #9 to white #7
6 - green #8 to white #6
- green #7 to white #5
7 - green #6 to white #4
- green #5 to white #5
8 - green #4 to white #1

9 then make 1 long slip stitch into each

stitch
10 - green #3
- green #2
- green #1

then cut and leave about a 12-inch tail

and weave it into the panel to secure
Now you’re done attaching side 2.
side 2 side 1 Let’s continue with sides 3 and 4.

(pic 7) (pic 8)

9
assemble

chart 7
Attaching side 3:
1
still using the 3 strings of yarn, pull a
2 loop through the slip stitch before the
3 first single crochet leaving a 12-in tail
to weave in later (pic 9)
4
then make 1 long slip stitch into each
stitch (green #1 then green #2)
5
then make 1 long slip stitch into 2
6 stitches (chart 7)
7 - green #3 to white #1
- green #4 to white #2
8 - green #5 to white #3
- green #6 to white #4
- green #7 to white #5
9
- green #8 to white #6
10 - green #9 to white #7
- green #10 to white #8

then lift your hook to pull 1.5 inches of

yarn and turn your work to side 4
(pic 10) Continue to the next page

side 4 side 3

(pic 9) (pic 10)

10
assemble

chart 8
Attaching side 4:
1
then make 1 long slip stitch into 2
2 stitches (chart 8)
- green #10 to white #8
3 - green #9 to white #7
- green #8 to white #6
4 - green #7 to white #5
- green #6 to white #4
5 - green #5 to white #3
- green #4 to white #2
6 - green #3 to white #1

7 then make 1 long slip stitch into each

stitch (green #2 then green #1)
8
then cut and leave about a 12-inch tail
9 and weave it into the panel to secure
Now you’re done with all of the sides
and it should look like (pic 11)
10
Next, we’ll work on the convertible
strap. You’re doing great!

(pic 11)
side 4 side 3

11
convertible strap

Still using the 3 strings of yarn, make 127 chains

then pull your chains through the holes following pic 12, pic 13, pic 14, then finally
pic 15 and the direction of the arrows

(pic 12)
(pic 13)

(pic 14) (pic 15)

make sure that your chain row is not twisted, then make 1 slip stitch into the
first chain making the chain row into a circle (pic 16)

then make a chain right on top of your slip stitch (pic 17)

(pic 16) (pic 17)

12
convertible strap

you now need to undo the slip knot at the beginning of your chain (pic 18 & -we
do this so your strap can look seamless and continuous)

(pic 18) (pic 19)

then make 1 single crochet into the second stitch (not the stitch where your slip
stitch and chain are at - chart 9) Make sure to hold the tail we just pulled out to
the middle of your single crochet so you don’t have to weave it in later (pic 19)

next, make 1 single crochet into each stitch (126 sc in total all the way around)
Pulling and rotate the chain circle so you only need to stay in one place to make
your single crochets, then make a slip stitch to connect the round (pic 21) and
make 1 chain to start the next round (pic 22)

continue for 2 more rounds (3 rounds in total) Make a slip stitch to connect the
round and cut an 8 inches tail and weave that in the back of the strap

(pic 20) (pic 21) (pic 22)

13
 Convertible Strap

chart 9

chain
single crochet
slip stitch

14
 pocket option #1: single pocket

2 chain
double crochet
single crochet
slip stitch

3
chart 10

Start by making 17 chains After the last double crochet of the

5th row, turn your work following the
green arrow 1 & 2 direction from chart
10. Now, make 1 single crochet into the
Row 1: skip 2 chains,
beginning of the row (like in pic 23),
then make 1 double
then 1 sc into each row for 5 sc in total
crochet into the 3rd
(like in pic 24)
stitch, then make 1 dc
into each chain (15 dc in
total not counting the 2
turning chains) (pic 24)

21
Row 2 - 5: make 2 chains 5 43 54321
then turn your work.
after that, make 1 dc
into each stitch (14 dc in
total not counting the 2
chains in the beginning) (pic 23)

15
pocket option #1: single pocket

Now, turn your work following the direction of green arrow 3 (from chart 10),
then make 1 sc into each stitch (15 sc in total) while holding the tail end
between, so you don’t have to weave it in later (like in pic 25)

At this point, your pocket is starting to take shape (like in pic 26)

(pic 25) (pic 26)

Turn your work following the direction of green arrow 4 (from chart 10), then
make 1 sc into each stitch for 5 sc in total like in pic 27

Make a slip knot (like in chart 10 & pic 28) to secure, then cut your yarn leaving a
50-in long tail to sew the pocket onto the bag.

1
2 (pic 28)

54 3

(pic 27)

16
pocket option #1: single pocket

To locate where you need to sew on your pocket, count 4 stitches from the
edges (like in pic 29)
(pic 29)

1 234 432 1

Using the yarn needle, put it through the closest single crochet of the pocket
and the bottom of the 5th stitch (the yellow star) of the bag body (like in pic 30)

(pic 30)

17
pocket option #1: single pocket

Then sew each single crochet of the pocket to one stitch from the body of the
bag (one stitch a row) like in pic 31 - 36

(pic 31) (pic 32)

Note: It’s not important to get the exact stitch. What you want is to keep your
needle straight for the sides and diagonally for the corner stitches

(pic 33) (pic 34)

(pic 35) - corner stitch (pic 36) - corner stitch

18
pocket option #1: single pocket

Now, that you’ve reached the bottom side of the pocket, continue to sew every
single crochet of the pocket into the main body of the bag 2 rows from the
bottom of the bag (like in pic 37 & 38) and keep following the direction of the
arrow.
(pic 37) (pic 38) - half way done sewing

Then continue to sew the rest of the pocket onto the bag using the steps similar
to how you did the other side (pic 39)

(pic 39)

1 2345

Finally, go through the last stitch one more time to secure the pocket and put
the needle through to the inside of the bag, then weave in the end and cut any
excess yarn
19
pocket option #2: double pockets

Start by making 10
steps:
chains
1. body (yellow)
2. outline 1 (orange) Row 1: skip 2 chains,
3. outline 2 (red) then make 1 half
4. lid (pink) double crochet into
5. sewing
each chain (8 hdc in
1 4 total)

Row 2-7: make 1

chain chain, turn your
half double crochet work, then make 1
single crochet
crochet direction
half double crochet
into each chain (8
hdc per row) like in
pic 40

(pic 40)

2 3

6 5
chart 11

Turn your work following the

direction of arrow 1 to make
outline 1 - make 1 single
crochet into the beginning of
each row (7 sc in total) like in

7654 3 21
pic 41

Keep turning your work

following the direction of
arrow 2 and make 1 sc into
each chain stitch (8 sc in total)
while holding the tail end
between so you don’t have to
weave it in later (like in pic 42 &
43) (pic 41)
20
pocket option #2: double pockets
(pic 42) (pic 43)

1
87654 3 21

Keep turning your work following arrow 3 and make 1 sc into each stitch (7 sc in
total) just like the other side - check pic 44 to confirm your progress

7654 3 21 (pic 44)

Then turn your work following
arrow 4 (chart 11) and make 1 sc
into each stitch (7 sc in total)
like in pic 45
following arrow 5, make 1 sc into
each stitch (8 sc in total) like in
pic 46

turning your work following

arrow 6, make 1 sc into each
stitch (7 sc in total) like in pic 47

(pic 45) (pic 46) (pic 47)

21
pocket option #2: double pockets

(pic 48) Now that you’re done with the body (yellow),
outline 1 (orange), and outline 2 (red) like in
pic 48, let’s start on the lid of the pocket.
Make 10 chains from the last single crochet of
outline 2 (like in pic 49)

Row 1: skip 2 chains, then make 1 half double

crochet into each chain (8 hdc in total) like in
pic 50

Row 2-3: make a chain, turn your work, then

make 1 half double crochet into each chain
(pic 49)

Row 4: make a chain, turn your work, skip the

first stitch, then make 1 hdc into the next 6
stitches. For the last 2 stitches, make 1 hdc
decrease (like in pic 51)

8 7654 3 21

(pic 50) (pic 51)

turn your work to the

(pic 52)
side and make 1 slip
stitch into each row
(like in pic 52) in a total
of 3 sl st, then cut your
yarn leaving a 30-in tail
to sew the pocket onto
the bag and pull it
through (like in pic 53) (pic 53)

22
pocket option #2: double pockets

To locate where to sew on your pocket, you need to count 2 stitches from the
side of the bag like pink numbers 1 & 2 in pic 54. Sew your lid on starting from
the 3rd stitch from the sides of the bag (like in pic 55)

Continue sewing each stitch to the horizontal part of the stitch behind it (like
in pic 55 & 56)

(pic 54) (pic 55)

21 8 7 6 5 4321

(pic 56) (pic 57)

87 65 4 3 21

6 5 4 32 1

Then turn your work to the side with the body of the pocket aligned with the lid
to start sewing the outline of the pocket onto the bag. Sew each stitch into the
stitch behind it. It’s not important to have the exact stitch as long as your
needle is straight going through both stitches (like in pic 57)

23
 pocket option #2: double pockets
For the corners, your needle needs to go through both the top front and back
stitches in a diagonally direction (like in pic 58 & 61)

Then, turn your work in the same direction to start sewing the bottom of the
pocket. Sew each stitch to the stitch behind - the middle of the 2nd double
crochet row from the bottom of the bag body (like in pic 59 & 60)

(pic 58) (pic 59)

(pic 60) (pic 61)

65 4 3 21

And similar to how you sew the other side of the outline of the pocket, sew
each stitch to the stitch behind it while making sure that it’s the 3rd stitch
from the side like in the beginning of sewing on the pocket

After 6 sewing stitches, make sure to go into the last one 2 times to secure the
whole pocket in place, then put your needle to the inside of the bag, and
weave in the tail.

note - you can repeat the same steps for the other pocket. Please make sure
that the pocket is 2 stitches from the side of the bag, starting from the row
right under the strap, and 1 row from the bottom of the bag
24
You’re done! Amazing Job!!!

Did you have fun? I hope you did. Please feel free to reach out to me if you have any
questions or feedback. I’m here for you, and I would also love to see your beautiful
creation so send me a picture or tag me. See you on our next crochet adventure.

There’s also a video tutorial for this bag on my Youtube channel - Biyabimi
.

crossbody to shoulder

2 compartments
2 pocket options