Elements and Principle of

Design UNIT 7 FASHION CONCEPTS

Structure
7.0 Introduction
7.1 Objectives
7.2 What is Fashion
7.3 Basic Fashion Terminology
7.3.1 Fashion Apparel
7.3.2 Fashion Business
7.3.3 Fashion Consumers
7.4 Why Fashion changes
7.5 Fashion Cycle
7.5.1 Cycles within Cycles
7.5.2 Theories of Fashion Change

7.6 Lets Us Sum Up

7.7 Keywords
7.8 Answers to Check Your Progress
7.9 References and Further Readings

7.0 INTRODUCTION
This unit explains the basic concepts of fashion and its relevance. It is important
to understand that fashion is global but at the same time it enables the individual
to express self-identity through clothing choices. This unit will familiarize you
with essential fashion terminology. You will also study the theories that explain
why fashion changes and the fashion cycle.

7.1 OBJECTIVES
After reading this unit you will be able to;
Describe fashion,
familiar with fashion terminology and
Describe directional theories of fashion change and the fashion cycle.

7.2 WHAT IS FASHION?

In simple terms, fashion may be understood as a style that is popular in the
present or a set of trends that have been accepted by the larger society. Fashion is
a complex subject that can be linked to society, culture and commerce. It draws
from a range of disciplines including psychology, anthropology, art, history, and
communication studies. Fashion derives from the Latin facere which means „to
make or „to do . While fashion includes clothing, it goes beyond the function of
clothing as protection from weather. Fashion is not merely dress or costume, but
is, in fact, a lifestyle that encompasses not only the styles of dressing in the
current time but involves human interaction to signify individual and group
52 identity, aspiration, taste and wealth. The Oxford dictionary defines it as a “popular
or the latest style of clothing, hair, decoration, or behaviour.” According to Fashion Concepts
renowned fashion scholar and writer Valerie Steele, fashion includes “all forms
of self- fashioning, including street styles, as well as so-called high fashion created
by designers and couturiers.”

Fashion has varying significance for different people. Fashion can be someone s
passion and a focussed career choice. For those employed in the fashion industry,
it can be a source of income; for others with entrepreneurial ability it is an
opportunity to express their signature style of design. For the fashion media
professionals, blogs and the social media offer routes to keep up, spread and
even influence fashion trends. For fashion enthusiasts, each season brings with
it a sense of excitement to explore the latest fashion trends, what is „in or „out
and to be the earliest to adopt the latest styles.

Fashion is not constant; it goes through periodic cycles of change under the
influence of prevailing or anticipated changes in the society. This continuous
evolution is the stimulus for fashion influencers to adopt new styles for the season
quite early. This is then adopted by the fashion followers who comprise a larger
segment of society. The so-called rules or dress codes are set only to be repeatedly
broken and reset in a series of seasonal fashion cycles.
Fashion and style are often used synonymously, but they are not the same.
Fashion refers to a “set of trends that are popular in the present and have been
accepted by a larger audience.” Style is defined as “a distinctive appearance,
typically determined by the principles according to which something is designed.”
Fashion is associated with change, acceptance and adoption of what is out there
in the stores in terms of clothes, related accessories and lifestyle products. Style
is a particular look, shape or type of apparel. Style is also about self-identity, and
personal choices of how the individual wants to present oneself and be perceived
through clothing choices. Style may involve adaptation of current fashion or
even a choice of not subscribing to fashion trends at all. In addition to practical
considerations, style emerges from the particular traits that the individual
possesses, associates with, and expresses through clothing choices made
repeatedly. Style has an emotional quotient that the wearer relates to it, as seen in
the classic style of actor Simi Grewal who always wears white.The designer
known as the couturier who is usually the Creative Director of couture fashion
houses such as Chanel, Christian Dior, Armani, Givenchy and others creates
one-of-a-kind, iconic, „high fashion . These are very expensive and therefore
very few can afford it. These designs are then re- interpreted into more affordable
styles for the larger market. The media plays an important role in disseminating
these trends through fashion magazines, social media and promotional shows on
television.

7.3 BASIC FASHION TERMINOLOGY

It is important to know the vocabulary and use the appropriate terminology of
fashion. As a fashion design student and later as a professional it is important to
use this language at the work place. Some of the fashion terminology being
French origin, it is essential to know their meaning and correct pronunciation.

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Elements and Principle of
Design
7.3.1 Fashion Apparel
The fashion system in any country is a part of the global fashion industry. The
domestic retail segment and the export business have their production systems
and target markets. The hierarchy of different segments of the fashion industry is
discussed below.

Couture (Haute Couture)

Couture or Haute Couture is a French term that translates literally as “high
dressmaking” which actually refers to high quality standards of apparel
construction or needlework techniques for custom clothing. While couture
includes clothing, jewellery and accessories, haute couture refers to one-of- a-
kind garment. It uses high quality, expensive, and exclusive fabrics and
isconstructed with extreme attention to detail by the most experienced and skilled
tailors and drapers, often using highly time-consuming, hand- executed techniques
from start to finish. An haute couture garment is often made for a client, tailored
specifically to the wearer’s measurements. Considering the amount of time,
money, and skilled personnel allocated to each garment, haute couture is beyond
the limitations of budget constraint. Some famous French couture houses are
Christian Dior, Chanel, Saint Laurent. Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Manish Arora and
Rahul Mishra are Indian designers who participate in Paris Fashion Week and
are globally famous for their contribution to promoting Indian couture.

Fig. 7.1: Haute couture

Designer Pret-a-porter
Designer prêt-à-porter is commonly known as ready-to-wear, abbreviated as RTW
meaning „off-the-rack clothes. The term refers to factory-made clothing
produced in standardized sizes in factories as differentiated from customized or
made-to-measure/ bespoke clothing tailored to the specific measurements of the
individual client. However, due care is taken in the choice and cut of the fabric
as well as the sewing quality. As the clothes are made in limited quantities, there
is still an amount of exclusivity and therefore they are high priced. International
fashion houses present RTW collections each season at the event known as
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Fashion Week. This usually takes place in specific cities in certain countries Fashion Concepts
or fashion capitals, twice a year. Fashion Weeks are bi-annual for the
Spring/Summer (S/S), Autumn/Winter (A/W) seasons. The themes are targeted
at market segments such as resort wear, high street, active sportswear, smart
casuals etc. International brands such as Miu Miu by Miuccia Prada and Polo by
Ralph Lauren, and Indian brands such as AND by Anita Dongre and Label by
Ritu Kumar, are examples of designer prêt-à-porter labels.

Mass Fashion
The mass market caters for a wide range of customers, producing large volumes
of RTW. In this market segment, the in-house design team makes volume-selling
merchandise that may be adapted from higher priced merchandise and is
moderately priced. To produce their own versions of the original styles at lower
cost, the brand may use cheaper fabrics and faster production processes which
makes it possible for the collection to be sold at lower prices. However, there is
a possibility that the quality may be compromised. Occasionally a limited range
of apparel may be designed by famous names e.g. supermodel Kate Moss for
Topshop (UK) and supermodel Gigi Hadid and Tommy Hilfiger collaboration
for Gigi x Tommy (USA). International mass fashion brands are Zara (Spain)
and H&M (Sweden), Shopper s Stop and Big Bazaar (India).

Avant Garde

The French avant-garde means “advance guard” and refers to experimental and
radical work that pushes the boundaries of widely-accepted design. The avant-
garde approach is seen in art, music, architecture, literature, performing arts,
cinema and significantly, fashion. Avant-garde fashion defies the existing norms
and consciously deviates from convention to chart an unprecedented path of
unorthodox innovation that questions and opposes mainstream aesthetics. Avant-
garde fashion designers have experimented with unconventional designs, new
forms and structures to radically redefine the way in which people perceive and
wear clothes and accessories. This is seen in the designs of Barbara Gongini
(Scandinavia), Yohji Yamamoto (Japan), Carol Christian Poell (Austria), Amit
Aggarwal (India) and others.

Fig.7.2a, Fig. 7.22b: Avant Garde

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Elements and Principle of Knock Off
Design
Knock-off is a close copy with strong resemblance with another brand but may
not carry the original label. Counterfeit is a replica of clothing, footwear or
accessories that is made with the motivation of deceiving the consumer into
thinking that it is genuine product of a particular company or brand. Knock-offs
are illegal because they are unauthorized products manufactured to replicate the
original product. Both knock-offs larger quantities, they are sold at cheaper prices
as compared to the originals. An example is a knock-off of a Louis Vuitton
handbag with a fake logo.

Bespoke
Bespoke clothing is reserved for individually patterned and crafted men’s clothing.
The term „bespoke is derived from the fact that an order is given for it to be
made. In other words, it is booked i.e. „spoken for . Bespoke clothing is
traditionally cut from a pattern drafted from scratch for the customer. While
ready to wear clothing that is manufactured and finished in a factory and available
in standardized sizes, bespoke menswear is customized for the individual client
with keen attention to high quality of construction and is more expensive. Savile
Row in London is the acknowledged place for the best bespoke tailoring in the
world and is the byword for unequalled quality.

In Vogue

A particular style is said to be in vogue or en vogue (French) when it is currently

in trend or in style. The Cambridge dictionary defines vogue as “the state of
being popular or fashionable for a period of time”. Therefore, keeping up with
fashion trends will inform you of what is predicted to be in vogue for a particular
future season.

Fashion Forward
Fashion-forward styles are modern designs that are anticipated or likely to become
fashionable in the near future.

Ensemble
Ensemble (French) is defined by the Merriam Webster dictionary as “a complete
costume of harmonizing or complementary clothing and accessories”. A fashion
ensemble refers to a complete outfit where the clothes are co-ordinated with
matching accessories and jewellery.

56 Fig. 7.3: Ensemble

Silhouette Fashion Concepts

Silhouette refers to the image or overall shape of a garment. The outline is

represented in a solid colour, usually black so that the focus is on the garment
outline and not on the design details on the space. Different silhouettes of dresses
are developed through patternmaking or draping with the purpose of flattering
different body types, as discussed below:
A-line: This silhouette is usually of a one-piece garment that flares out gently
from the waist or hips, thus resembling the alphabet „A .
Empire line: This silhouette features a fitted bodice ending just below the bust,
giving a high-waisted appearance to the dress. Irrespective of the skirt length, it
skims the hips. This silhouette gives a youthful look.
Mermaid -This silhouette is fitted from the neck and shoulders over the bust
and hips down to the knee from where it flares out dramatically. It is particularly
suitable for those with petite figures.
H-Line: This silhouette is usually a one-piece rectangular dress dropping straight
from shoulder to the hip. The waist often has a belt or another accent detail
resembling the bar of the letter „H
Sheath: This silhouette is long, narrow and column-like slim-fitting dress starting
from the neckline, subtly accentuating the natural contours of the body.
Shift: This is a knee-length dress with a body-skimming silhouette that has more
ease at the bust, waist and hips.
Shift: This is a knee-length dress with a body-skimming silhouette that has more
ease at the bust, waist and hips.
Y-line: This narrow silhouette is the inverted version of the A-line. It has shoulder
accents which can vary from a wide collar to large shoulder pads, and a fitted
body.

Fig. 7.4: Silhouettes

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Elements and Principle of Garment Components
Design
The garment components are parts or sections of clothing with one or more
separate pieces to be assembled as a unit. Garment components include the top
front, top back, bottom front, bottom back, sleeve, collar/neckline treatment,
sleeve/cuff treatment, placket, pocket, and waistline treatment. Hems may be
completed as a part of a component or as part of final assembly. Stitching, shaping
with darts and seams, and fusing techniques are used to assemble components of
the final garment structure. An example of shirt components is shown below.

Fig. 7.5: Garment Components

7.3.2 Fashion Business

Fashion Seasons
Fashion collections are developed and presented at Fashion Weeks for two main
seasons namely Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter, also known as Autumn/ Winter.
The Spring/Summer starts in January and runs until around June, and Fall/Winter
goes from July to December. These can be further extended into four seasons
namely Spring/Summer, Fall/Winter, Resort and pre-Fall. Resort collections may
overlap the first two seasons and are offered around late October to December.
Pre-Fall collections appear in stores slightly before Fall/Winter collections come
in.

The collections are presented in the Fashion Weeks held in the global fashion
capitals of Paris, Milan, London and New York twice a year. Industry professionals
from all over the world come together to see what the designers have planned for
the coming season. These are showcased well ahead of the actual season to allow
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for enough time for subsequent activities. After attending shows, the buyers decide Fashion Concepts
what will be sold in their own stores. The brands also need time to produce them
and then get them to the different retail stores. The retailers also need to prepare
for the new arrivals in terms of photo-shoots, marketing and other related activities.

Fashion Forecasting
Fashion forecasting is a process of highly professionalized system of predicting
upcoming trends for different fashion and lifestyle industries such as apparel,
home furnishings, leather goods, accessories, automobiles and even food. Fashion
forecasting agencies are mostly based in developed Western countries. Some of
the widely-referred trend forecasting agencies are WGSN and Doneger (New
York), Promostyl, Peclers, René Derhy, Nelly Rodi (Paris), Trendstop (London).
Fashion forecasting agencies cater to apparel categories particularly for ready-
to-wear and mass markets. These are responsible for anticipating and predicting
trends that help retail and export businesses for the upcoming seasons. They
publish trend books to illustrate their forecasts about eighteen months ahead of
the fashion season. The books include colour chips, textile samples, fashion
sketches and photographs to explain the trends.

7.3.3 Fashion Consumers

Fashion Leaders/ Influencers
The process of fashion adoption by wider society is usually started by a small
group of opinion leaders referred to as Fashion Change Agents, also known as
Fashion Leaders, and Fashion Influencers. Fashion leaders are persons who are
early adopters of new fashion style, and are acknowledged as fashion leaders
because of their interest in fashion and boldness to experiment with their clothing
choices and appearance. Fashion influencers are in a position to inspire, influence
and affect the opinions and purchasing decisions of others in the group. A fashion
influencer may be a celebrity from different professions – a cinema star, music
star, supermodel, sportsperson, politician, fashion editor and blogger, fashion
designer, artist or even a socialite who has large number of followers on social
media. Actor Sonam Kapoor is an early adopter and fashion leader whose style
is imitated by many.

Fashion Followers
Those who follow the fashion leaders and adopt particular styles only after it is
worn by a fashion influencer and becomes a popular trend, are called Fashion
Followers. This includes the majority of adopters as they are not interested in
creating their own unique style identity and are content to wear similar styles.
This particular consumer segment being the largest group, is targeted by fashion
brand retailers for promotional activities to induce buying on a large scale.

Fashion Victims

Fashion Victims are those who slavishly follow current fashions without due
consideration whether it suits them or not. Therefore, irrespective of their personal
style and fit, they may wear clothes that may cross the boundaries of fashion and
style.

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Elements and Principle of Check Your Progress 1
Design

1) What do you understand by fashion?

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2) What is silhouette? Draw any 4 basic silhouettes of a dress and write a few
points about each.

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3) What is the difference between fashion and style? Fashion Concepts

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4) Define Haute Couture and Mass Fashion. Explain their differences

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7.4 WHY FASHION CHANGES

French social and cultural historian Daniel Roche has described fashion as
dynamic change. Why does fashion change? The answer is probably as simple
as the fact that people are constantly engaged in the search for the new, which
gradually replaces the old. The basis of fashion as a profession is that it is a
reflection of the times in which it is created and worn. Fashion, as popular culture,
responds to whatever is new and modern. Individuals in large numbers choose
among competing designs that reflect their taste and personality.

The speed at which fashion changes has increased with the boom in technology
and communications. The latest fashion trends are transmitted almost
instantaneously across the world. This accelerated pace increases the awareness
of the latest styles from one fashion capital across the globe thus impacting
worldwide changes in fashion.
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Elements and Principle of History shows that fashion evolved from the occurrences in society, until Christian
Design
Dior s New Look in 1947 and subsequent introduction of a new look each season
such as the H-line or the A-line silhouettes. Fashion was driven by seasonal
change as each season required new clothes with new colours, silhouettes and
decorative details. Over time, the number of social seasons increased to four or
more which led to a continuous flow of new trends. Consumers had less time to
assimilate one set of trends before the next one was introduced. This accelerated
pace in the search for newness also brought changes in the way the fashion
business functioned.

Fashion is noted for its continuous cycle of change and revival, which is something
related to the zeitgeist theory, a German word meaning „spirit of the times .
Based on the framework developed in 1928 by American economist Paul Nystrom,
some examples of fashion reflecting socio- cultural and political effects of zeitgeist
are briefly discussed:

i) Dominating events - There can be three kinds of dominating events: (a)

significant events (e.g. simple, non-luxurious clothing during wartime); (b)
accidental events of significance (e.g. discovery of Tutankhamen s tomb in
the 1920s led to motif designs of Ancient Egypt was a major influence on
the Art Deco style); and (c) art events (e.g. the close relationship between
Pop art and fashion in the 1960s).

ii) Dominating ideals – Patriotism (e.g. casualwear with army uniform

references), gender equality (e.g. androgynous fashion), connection between
fitness beauty and youthfulness (e.g. activewear, athleisure fashion), multi-
cultural society (e.g. co-existence of Western and indigenous fashions at a
particular point of time).

iii) Dominating social groups – These include people with power, wealth and
leadership positions (e.g. celebrities such as cinema stars, sportspersons etc.
who are influencers; fashion bloggers and editors as opinion leaders who
are highly visible in the entertainment and social media whose personal
style and brand endorsements drive fashion).

iv) Dominating attitude – This includes the need for imitation (e.g. dominance
of casualwear in 1990s) and differentiation (e.g. 1980s Punk fashion in
London).

v) Dominating technology – Technology deeply imprints everyday life in the

new millennium (e.g. Artificial Intelligence and „smart textiles in fashion,
wearable technology, robotics and automation that drives mass
production).Fashion responds to these factors through change. The process
of change is supported by media communication channels including fashion
and style magazines, advertising on television and internet. This changing
nature of fashion combined with the zeitgeist theory is based on the fact that
fashion is never permanent. Those involved with the product development
and fashion marketing develop a sense of timingi.e. the ability to understand
the speed of acceptance of a particular style by their consumers and how it
stimulates buying behaviour.

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Check Your Progress-2 Fashion Concepts

1) Why does fashion change?

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2) What is Zeitgeist? In what ways does it cause changes in fashion?
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7.5 FASHION CYCLE

Fashion cycle is frequently associated with seasonal trends. In the context of
fashion design this may be understood as a dominant look or prevailing style or
colour that gives rise to a sense of collective dressing at a given time. This may
lead to a new silhouette for men or women – this could be the cut of a jacket or
the fall of a skirt. Thus being „in fashion is temporary. The fashion industry is
motivated by commercial interests to encourage seasonal changes. The changes
that occur in a particular pattern depicting the time or life span during which
fashion exists are expressed through the Fashion Cycle.

The fashion cycle is depicted as a bell-shaped curve encompassing five stages:

Introduction, Rise, Peak, Decline, and Rejection. Consumers are exposed every
season to a multitude of new styles created by designers and launched by big
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Elements and Principle of clothing companies. Some styles are rejected immediately by retail buyers.
Design
Consumers accept some styles for a short duration (fads), and adopt some as a
long-term investment (classic). Each cycle can be measured through a series of
stages according to a timescale.

Fig. 7.6: Fashion Cycle

Stage 1. Introduction
Designers introduce new collections every season which are adopted early by
the fashion leaders such as movie stars, athletes, and socialites. At this introductory
phase, the new style may be accepted easily or evoke mixed reactions, or may
not be accepted by the public.

Stage 2. Rise
This stage shows a rise as the style gains acceptance. When worn by a celebrity,
the new style draws the attention of buyers and the public through advertising
promotions and media channels. Fashion followers pick up on the style as it
gains wider acceptance.

Stage 3. Peak
This stage represents the peak of popularity and is widely adopted across all
market levels. It may be in such demand that manufacturers produce adaptations
at different price levels. As it reaches saturation point, the fashion leaders discard
the style, but majority of consumers continue to accept its adaptations.

Stage 4. Decline
This is the decline stage when the style is over-exposed in an over-saturated
market, resulting in consumers becoming tired of it and seeking new styles. It is
now worn only by less conscious consumers and therefore the numbers of fashion
followers begin to decline. The style may be discounted by retailers as off-season
sale or clearing sale.

Stage 5. Rejection
This is the last phase of the cycle. Some consumers have already turned to new
styles, thus beginning a new cycle. The rejection or discarding of a style because
it is out of fashion, is called Consumer Obsolescence. As consumers are not
interested in buying the style any more, manufacturers stop producing and the
64 retailers do not restock the same. It is time for a new cycle to begin.
7.5.1 Cycle Within Cycle Fashion Concepts

Designers interpret forecast trends in different variations in terms of the silhouette,

colour, material, trims etc. in order to capitalize on a trend and cater to the demand
of a particular style during the popularity and acceptance stage. Each of these
variations is like a cycle rotating within a larger cycle – this phenomenon is
known as Cycle within Cycle. An example is denim developed by Levi Strauss
during the Gold Rush in California in 1850s and became so popular that it has
continued as a fashion staple. Yet there are variations in the cut (baggy, boot leg,
straight leg, tapered leg), colour (shades of blue and later, other colours), fabric
surface treatments (laser-cutting, stone-wash, enzyme- wash, laser- finish etc),
weight of denim (light, medium, heavy) etc. The successful adaptation and
adoption of variations of jeans with do-it-yourself versions have been „in and
„out of fashion.

Fig. 7.7: Cycle within Cycle

Classic and Fad

A classic is a style or design that remains popular for an extended period of time.
It looks good on just about everyone, has lasting worth and a timeless quality
that is largely unaffected by the trends of „in or „out of the fashion cycle. A
classic is characterized by simplicity of design that has stood the test of time
and never becomes obsolete. For example: a pair of jeans, black jacket, classic
wool blazer, or a polo shirt. A classic can be heirloom woven or embroidered
piece which can be passed on from one generation to another, for example Jamevar
handwoven shawl, Paithani weave or chikankari embroidered saree.

Fads are fashions of short duration that peak in popularity due to a fast rate of
acceptance by the consumer but have a brief life expectancy with the tendency
to become outmoded rapidly. Hence fads are also called “miniature fashions”.
They are typically confined to particular social groups, they usually have no
forerunner or successor. They tend to begin at lower prices, are not expensive to
produce and therefore the market gets saturated easily. Examples are fluorescent 65
Elements and Principle of coloured ripped T-shirts, calf length jeans with turn-up cuffs, parti-coloured
Design
clothing etc. These products do not have scope for continued growth and quickly
fade out.

Fig. 7.8: Classics and Fad

7.5.2 Theories of Fashion Change

To understand how new fashion ideas spread and adapted to the taste, lifestyle
and budgets of customers, we need to understand the three directional theories
of fashion change:

Fig. 7.9: Fashion Theories

Trickle-down theory
This theory is based on traditional adaptation in a downward flow. Historically,
clothing styles were dictated by the royalty and nobility who were the socially
prominent leaders in society by birth, rank and wealth. The elite class differentiated
itself through fashion, the lower classes imitated the look, which led to the elite
class adopting another look to maintain the social differentiation. These styles
spread slowly downwards through the class structures but never reached all levels.
In modern times, the new, highly visible class comprises those in positions of
power in business, politics and media. There is a directional change in the way in
which trendsetting fashions from the fashion capitals of Paris, London, Milan
and New York are adapted until simpler and more affordable versions of these
styles become available to the consumers.
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 Fashion Concepts

Fig. 7.10: Theories of Fashion Change

Trickle-up theory
Based on Reverse Adaptation, the Trickle-up theory of Fashion Change reverses
the direction in an upward flow. According to this theory, the social segments
with higher status and more power imitate those with lower status. In the 1960s
Youthquake decade, the older generation adopted the styles such as bright shirts,
polka-dot ties, sportscoats and jeans which had been pioneered by teenagers and
the young. Designers and manufacturers found innovative concepts in street style.
In the 1990s, street fashion was transported to the high fashion ramp with the
transformation of the humble safety pin into a oversized glamourous decorative
detail in Gianni Versace s famous Safety pin Dress.

Trickle-across theory
This theory is also called the Simultaneous Adoption theory in a horizontal flow.
There are many influences and simultaneous ways in which modern
communications bring fashion from around the world into the homes almost
instantly. Separate markets have developed to cater to different ages, lifestyles
and tastes. Designers and brands reach out to their respective target market
segments, each with its specific price points. The „fast fashion chains are closer
to the target envisioned by the trickle-across theory because of their speed to
market, mass production processes that speeded up the process of moving fashion
ideas from the runway to the store. This made it possible for different styles to
trickle across for wider acceptance at the same time.

Check Your Progress 3

1) What are the five stages of a fashion cycle?
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Elements and Principle of 2) Explain the three theories of fashion change?
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3) Identify the pictures of the following garments as Classic, Fad, Avant Garde,
Haute couture, Bespoke. Give reasons for your answer.

Fig. 7.11

Fig. 7.12
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Fig. 7.15

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7.6 LET US SUM UP

Fashion always follows the same cyclic pattern. However, there is no measurable
time frame for a fashion cycle – there are variations in the speed that a style takes
to rise, peak and decline in popularity. Some styles sell out quickly, some take
much longer to clear the shelves, and others do not sell at all. The popularity and
demand for classic styles are due to minimal changes in design.

Every season, the design team of every brand develops new styles to clear the
shelves that are introduced to the retail buyers for placing orders for the stores.
These are promoted by the fashion media through promotional articles in
newspapers and magazines. Fashion being aspirational, when these styles are
worn by celebrities at events or photoshoots in fashion magazines, they attract
the attention of the general public who want to buy them. To reach out to a larger
consumer base, manufacturers adapt these high fashions into more commercially
viable versions through fabric choices at affordable prices. When the popularity
70 reaches its peak, to cater to the high demand, manufactures produce adaptations
of the design at different price levels. However, at this time consumers seeking Fashion Concepts
new looks tired of the style and begin the search for the new. At the decline
stage, retailers offer store discounts to clear the stock. During the obsolescence
stage, the remaining merchandise is sent to discount outlets.

7.7 KEYWORDS
Haute couture, Designer prêt-à-porter, Mass market, Knock-off, Bespoke, Fashion
Forward, In vogue, Fashion leader, Fashion Follower, Fashion Victim, Fashion
seasons, Fashion Forecasting, Ensemble, Silhouette, Classic, Fad, Components
of a garment, Zeitgeist, Fashion Cycle, trickle-up theory, trickle- down theory.

7.8 ANSWERS TO CHECK YOUR PROGRESS

Check Your Progress 1
1) See Sec. 3.3,
2) See Sec. 3.3 and
3) See Sec 3.2
Check Your Progress 2
1) See Sec. 3.5
2) See Sec. 3.5
Check Your Progress 3
1) See Sec.3.7
2) See Sec.3.7
3) See Sec 3.7.

7.9 REFERENCES AND FURTHER READING

Gurleen Arora - https://prezi.com/9gnt8ukuxclz/fashion-cycles-and-theories/
Fashion and Style Reference Guide - Marianna Draws Fashion and Art edited by
Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas
- https://www.dailymail.co.
uk/femail/article-4726702/Why-wearing-ripped-jeans.html
- https://edition.cnn.com/st
yle/article/why-this-matters-haute-couture/index.html
- https://indianexpress.com
/article/entertainment/bollywood/aishwarya-rai-bachchan-sonam-kapoor-
katrina-kaif-vote-for-the-best-dressed-at-cannes-2015/
- https://www.google.com/
search?rlz=1C1GCEU_enIN819IN819&biw=1366&bih=657&tbm=
isch&q= bespoke+suit&chips=q:bespoke+suit,g_1:light+ grey:kFM3qa
MndCc%3 D,g_1: charcoal+ grey&usg=AI4_-kQqhtXSaut4V q0xp9jUG3
mu X96O_A&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjOpLn9yIvg AhVKqY8KHcEMB
0cQ4lYILCgC#imgrc=LiVNBElDBREucM
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