TITLE: SERUM FORMULATION TO STRENGTHEN EYELASH GROWTH.

1. GENERAL OBJECTIVE
Prepare a formula based on essential oils to stimulate the growth and
strengthening of eyelashes.

2. SPECIFIC GOAL
Obtain an adequate formulation taking into account the toxicological aspect of
the active compounds of each essential oil used.

3. JUSTIFICATION:
Given the need of our environment in the female gender to show off long and
strengthened eyelashes, in the market we find different mascaras for this
reason it was decided to diversify the products with the peculiarity of making a
serum with natural ingredients.

4. THEORETICAL FRAMEWORK
Eyelash serum.

The eyes are the most expressive part of the face; Therefore, her makeup is
especially attractive and flattering. Among eye makeup products, mascara is,
without a doubt, the most popular, as it allows you to highlight your eyes in a
simple and quick way. But if there is no prior treatment of the eyelashes, they
will not have the same effect.
Eyelashes are resistant and elastic hairs that grow with a concavity inverse to
that of the eyelids, which allows them not to intersperse with them when they
close. Their structure is mainly composed of melanin and keratin, which
provides them with resistance and elasticity. They lack an erector muscle and
their growth cycle lasts approximately 5 months. They are darker than hair and
do not turn gray with age. Its growth is 10 times slower than that of hair. Its main
function is to protect the eyeball from the entry of microorganisms and particles
in the air.
The first eyelash product was invented by Eugène Rimmel at the end of the
19th century. It was a paste based on black soap mixed with wax and colored
with carbon oxide that irritated, ran and there was no way to remove it, but
which, nevertheless, was spectacularly successful. In fact, the last name of its
inventor became the generic name of the product. The first commercial
mascara dates back to 1913, when the chemist T. L. Williams created a mixture
of Vaseline and charcoal powder. In 1936, mascara became a mascara, in
homage to a mustache dye called Mascaro . At this time, masks only existed in
compact paste and were applied with a moistened brush (usually with saliva). In
1937, Helena Rubinstein invented the metal applicator attached to a reservoir.
This first automatic mask revolutionizes the cosmetic industry. It will be in 1964
when the first mascara with a brush on the applicator is launched.
We must differentiate between mascaras and serum: The main function of
mascara is to lengthen, define, thicken, coat and color, in addition to protecting
and even promoting the growth of eyelashes at the time of its application unlike
the Serum is used as a nutrition treatment, strengthening eyelashes thanks to
the properties of the added essential oils and it can be applied every 4 hours,
being easy to apply and colorless, with all this during the treatment promoting
accelerated growth to shine. long and strengthened eyelashes at all times, even
without makeup
.
A type of mask or serum must meet requirements such as:
• Be totally harmless.
• Be easy to apply, glide smoothly and leave no lumps.
• It should not dry too quickly or too slowly.
• Eyelashes should be defined, separated, curved and flexible.
• It has to remain all day without releasing dust on the cheeks.

In addition to a good formula, the Serum requires an applicator and reducer

suitable for the objective you want to achieve. These are the keys so that the
final product fulfills the function for which it was designed.

INGREDIENTS

 Castor oil.

Synonyms: Castor Oil, Castor Aromatic Oil, Castor Musk, Castor Oil, Emulsoil,
Neoloid, Purge, Castor Oil, Palma Christi Oil, Oleum Ricino, Neoloid, Phorbyol,
Cosmetol, Castor wax.
Chemical Name: Glyceryl - trans - 12 - hydroxystearate.
Chemical Formula: Composed of triglycerides of fatty acids, mainly: Ricinoleic
87%, Oleic 7%, Linoleic 3%, Palmitic 2%, Stearic 1%, Dihydroxystearic in
Traces. (5)
Chemical Structure:

Description: Thick, transparent, colorless, pale yellow viscous liquid

or almost colorless; with a slight characteristic odor, slightly sour flavor and
usually very unpleasant. Fixed oil obtained by cold expression from the seeds of
Ricinus communis L. (Fam. Euphorbiaceae).
Solubility: Soluble in dehydrated alcohol, glacial acetic acid, alcohol
absolute, chloroform and ether, insoluble in petroleum ether and petroleum jelly.
Physical Properties:
Molecular weight: N. AND.
Density: 0.956 – 0.96425ºC g/mL.
Melting point: -12°C
Refractive index: 1.477 – 1.48125°C
Specific gravity: 0.957 – 0.961
Solidification point: 17 – 18°C
HLB: 14.0
Chemical properties:
Iodine index: 82 – 90
Peroxide index: < 5
Saponification index: 176 – 187
Acidity index: < 2 (20)
It is a triglyceride of fatty acids.
Incompatibilities: With polar solvents and strong oxidizing agents.
It may present suspended particles.
Pharmaceutical or Cosmetic Use and Its Percentages: It is used as an
emollient in creams in percentages of 5 – 10% that depend on the formulation
and type of cream to be prepared.
In hair oil, it is used as an emollient, in a percentage of less than 10%.
To prepare glitter, 10% is used as a base.
In nail varnishes it is used as a plasticizer at 4.5%.
It is used to reduce the sedimentation of pigments in lipstick, in variable
concentration according to need.
It serves as an oil-in-water emulsified base in mascaras to make the product
water-repellent and impart emollience.
For lipstick and lipstick formulation, it is used as a color solubilizer and 25-45%
emollient, providing shine and resistance to the preparation.
Mixed with collodion it forms elastic collodion, which provides elasticity to Lip
Cosmetic preparations.
Storage and Packaging Conditions: Protect from light,
In well-filled containers, hermetically closed, at a temperature not exceeding 45
to 15 °C. It has good keeping qualities, and will not go rancid unless subjected
to excessive heat.
Note: Ricinus communis seeds contain a toxic protein, ricin, and allergic
reactions have been reported in subjects who handle them.
Annoying.
Hydrogenation of castor oil
It is considered an organic ingredient since the hydrogenation process uses
natural hydrogen gas that is mixed with natural castor oil. The most commonly
known type of castor wax in the cosmetic field is PEG hydrogenated castor oil .
In certain concentrations they are said to be safe to use on the skin.
PEG hydrogenated oils are commonly used in cosmetics due to their ability to
help form emulsions by reducing the surface tension of the substances to be
emulsified. They also help other ingredients dissolve in solvents in which they
would not otherwise normally dissolve. In the world of cosmetics, hydrogenated
oils play a role in the production of acne products, deodorant sticks, anti-
dandruff shampoos and other types of skin care products.
Applications
It is used to solubilize alcohol and/or water: Essential oils, perfume
compositions, vitamins and hydrophobic active substances.
How to use
Homogenize the solubilizer before use. In hydro-alcoholic mixtures: Mix the
fragrance with the solubilizer and dissolve it in the alcohol before adding the
specified amount of water. With aqueous preparations, add the water very
slowly and with vigorous stirring.

 Camellia extract:
The oil is extracted by pressing its seeds. The fruits of the camellia have an
average diameter of 6 cm, with a great variation between species, and within
them there are usually 3-4 seeds with a diameter between 0.5-1 cm.
Precious raw material
Camellia Oil is extracted by cold pressing the seeds of this beautiful and special
flower that illuminates and gives color to Galician gardens in winter.

dry texture
Quick absorption, very moisturizing and regenerating, smoothes the skin and
prevents the formation of wrinkles. Its composition allows it to penetrate to the
deepest layers of the skin.

Properties

Camellia Oil is the center of a unique beauty ritual that keeps skin beautiful over
time.

Camellia oil works to restore and revitalize skin and hair from the inside out.

Camellia oil is rich in vitamins A (helps in the formation and maintenance of

healthy teeth, soft and bone tissues, mucous membranes and skin), B (plays
very diverse functions for the proper functioning of cells), D (responsible for
regulating the passage of calcium to the bones) and E (antioxidant at the level
of heme synthesis, an essential part of the hemoglobin of red blood cells) and in
minerals such as phosphorus (P), zinc (Zn), calcium (Ca), manganese (Mn) and
magnesium (Mg).

 Keratin:
Keratin is a fibrous protein present in all vertebrates, it occurs in the form of
microfibrils and is composed of amino acids rich in sulfur (Gupta, Kamarudin,
Kee, & Yunus, 2012, p.735).
Fibrous proteins are made up of polypeptide chains oriented side by side in long
filaments. Because these proteins are resistant and insoluble in water, they are
used in nature to form structural materials such as: nails, horns, hooves, beaks,
claws, among others (McMurry, 2012, p.1038). Keratin, like other proteins, is
composed of amino acids, substances whose general formula is shown in figure
1:

Structure of an amino acid

Approximately twenty-five different amino acids are known to form proteins, and
of these, eighteen are found in measurable amounts in keratin. Keratin shows
exclusive characteristics as a protein due to the presence of different bonds
which are shown in Figure 2:

Scheme of the types of bonds present in keratin (Bharat Bhushan, 2010).

Hydrogen Bonds: Hydrogen bonds are formed by the interaction of the NH
group with a properly located CO group.
 Salt Bonds: As some of the side chains of the polypeptide contain acidic
groups (COO-) and others contain basic groups (NH3+), there is the
possibility of salt formation between them, if the groups are favorably
placed.
 Disulfide Bonds: The extreme strength and insolubility of keratin is
attributed to its cystine content. This dimer contains two amino groups
and two carboxylic groups; thus they can be incorporated into two
polypeptide chains that are linked together by a disulfide bond (Wilkinson
and Moore, 1990, p.450).
Keratin Classification
Two types of keratin are found in nature, β-keratin and α-keratin, which show
high mechanical and thermal resistance.
 β-Keratin . β-keratin does not have cysteine. Therefore, it contains few
cross-links through disulfide (cystine) bridges. β-Keratin is a folded
lamellar structure that constitutes the main component of avian and
reptile tissues, such as feathers, claws, and beaks of birds (Navarro,
1992). This beta conformation of keratin occurs in two configurations: a
parallel structure and an antiparallel structure as seen in Figure 3.

Figure 3. β-keratin sheet A) Parallel Structure B) Antiparallel Structure

(Kajava, Squire, & Parry, 2006, p.2)
The parallel form consists of protein chains running in the same direction (from
the N terminus to the C terminus); antiparallel consists of chains running in
opposite directions. In these structures, each section is held together by
hydrogen bonds.
In the formation of the β-keratin filament, the central region of a polypeptide
chain folds to form four lateral β strands, which are then linked by hydrogen
bonds, resulting in a folded sheet. Subsequently, the sheet is distorted to form a
helical surface. Two folded sheets overlap and move in opposite directions,
forming the filament (B. Wang, Yang, McKittrick, & Meyers, 2015, p.9).
 α-Keratin. α-Keratin is characterized by the presence of cysteine, an
amino acid that forms disulfide bridges, which provides rigidity and
resistance to this type of protein.

The primary structure of α-keratin is folded on itself, acquiring three dimensions,

with which a secondary structure called α-helix protein is observed. The α-
keratin of hair and wool consists of long right-handed α-helices. The formation
of the keratin filament is seen in the figure:
α-keratin filament formation

The coiling of 2 α-helices gives rise to a left-handed coiled helicoid. The

association of 2 coiled helicoids gives rise to a protofilament and 4
protofilaments form a protofibril and 4 protofibrils finally form a keratin strand
(Vílchez, 2005).
In human hair, there are two subtypes of α-keratin, keratin type I (acidic) and
keratin type II (basic), they interact with each other and form a left-handed
heterodimeric helix. Two dimers then combine in anti-parallel to form a right
tetramer. These hierarchical processes occur until the subsequent
transformation into helical coil intermediate filaments (Lee et al., 2014, p.256).
These two types of keratin presented are part of different types of materials.
Some examples are presented in the table below:

Table of origin of different types Where is it located

of keratin (B. Wang et al., 2015,
p.141) Keratin type
α-keratin Wool, hair, nails, horns, hooves,
stratum corneum
β –keratin Feathers, beaks and claws of birds,
claws and reptilian scales
α-and β-keratin Reptile epidermis, pangolin scales

Keratin applications
In cosmetology Keratin is part of many cosmetic hair treatments, it protects the
interior of the hair, influences color and shine, which are affected by
mechanical, chemical or environmental factors. These modify the structure of
the hair, making it fragile, brittle and porous. Keratin can prevent hair
deterioration due to continuous exposure to these factors. (Wilkins, Moore, &
Rodriguez, 1990).
Hydrolyzed collagen:
Collagen is a very important protein for our body, which makes up connective
tissue. It mainly provides the elasticity of our skin, the prevention of wrinkles
and sagging. To restore the levels of this substance in the body, there is
hydrolyzed collagen, it is an option in powder or capsule form that provides a
series of benefits.
For the native collagen to become an assimilable protein nutrient, it is
necessary to subject it to a process called hydrolyzation, and after that the
collagen will have an absorption of 90% (it is a processing of the native collagen
by cooking or treatment with acids or alkalis, which achieve a separation of
each of the 3 polypeptide chains of tropocollagen), subsequently an advanced
hydrolysis is carried out.
After the separation of the tropocollagen polypeptide chains, they are
fragmented into smaller segments, using chemicals (chemical hydrolysis) or
proteolytic enzymes.
It is important to know that hydrolyzed collagen manages to maintain 30% of the
proteins present in our body. The collagen we buy is a powder that is mainly
made up of proteins (20 types of amino acids), vitamins (in general, it always
has vitamin C) and minerals. Free of fats and sugars.

 Allantoin

It is a white, crystallizable chemical compound (5-ureido hydantoin), whose

formula is C4 H6 N4 O3, present in many plants and in allantoic and amniotic
fluids. It is also chemically called glyoxyldiureide. It is also a substance that we
can find in certain healing plants and in snail slime. It has prodigious properties
to regenerate the skin. Its name comes from a structure attached to the
umbilical cord of the mammals that produce it, called allantois. (Ecu Network,
2013)
Description
Allantoin is an active ingredient for the skin with moisturizing, soothing and anti-
irritant properties; promotes the renewal of epidermal cells and accelerates
wound healing.
It is safe and non-irritating, highly compatible with the skin and cosmetic raw
materials. It has a long history of use in cosmetics and topical pharmaceutical
products without any findings of toxicity or adverse reactions. .Meets the
requirements of the CTFA (Cosmetic Hygiene and Fragrance Association)
(Akema Fine Chemicals, 2012)
Composition
It is a nitrogenous substance from a complex series that contains two molecules
of urea or its radicals, such as uric acid or Allantoin. Many organic nitrogenous
compounds are found in some plants and in the urine of some mammals. The
final degraded form of purines in primates is uric acid or sodium urate, while in
the rest of the mammals it is excreted as Allantoin by oxidation of sodium urate.
Amphibians and most fish oxidize Allantoin to urea and glyoxylate and some
marine invertebrates oxidize it to NH4 and CO2. (Ecu Network, 2013)
Chemical Structure of Allantoin
It was Wohler who introduced Liebig to another great discovery. In 1837 he
informed him that he had managed to identify the constituents of Uric Acid
(C5H4N4O3). Decomposing this in water with lead peroxide as an oxidizing
agent isolated urea, carbonic acid and a colorless crystalline substance. Liebig
immediately determined the structure of this substance, Allantoin (C4H6N4O3).
On the basis that compounds possessing 4 elements must be formed by the
union of binary compounds, Liebig interpreted that uric acid was a derivative of
urea (Ur.) with an unknown acid containing the combined carboxylic acid radical
(CO). with cyanogen (Cy) (Lopez, Carmen Avandeño).
Mechanism of action
The beneficial effects of Allantoin on the skin have been well documented.
Allantoin is a mild keratolytic agent that dissolves the intercellular cement that
holds the corneocytes together, thus helping the natural desquamation of the
stratum corneum and increasing the softness of the skin. (Akema Fine
Chemicals, 2012)
The moisturizing effect results from its ability to increase water retention in the
intercellular matrix and keratin, thus softening the skin and making it look
healthier. The calming, anti-irritant and protective effects are due to the ability of
Allantoin to form complexes that neutralize irritating and sensitizing agents.
(Akema Fine Chemicals, 2012)
Allantoin improves cell proliferation, promotes the regeneration of damaged
epithelium and accelerates wound healing. (Akema fine chemicals, 2012),
Stability
It is a heterocyclic compound derived from purine. It is an odorless white
powder, soluble in water at 0.5%, very slightly soluble in alcohols, insoluble in
oils and non-polar solvents, it is stable in a pH range of 3 to 8 and prolonged
heating up to 80°C. It is completely compatible with cosmetic ingredients and
with anionic, nonionic and cationic systems. (Akema fine chemicals, 2012).

 Aloe barbadensi extract

Aloe Vera is a plant of great medicinal interest used as such for more than 3000
years. Of around 300 species of Aloe, it has been scientifically proven that four
types have the greatest medicinal properties: Aloe barbadensis Miller, Aloe
perryi Baker, Aloe ferox and Aloe arborescens. However, Aloe barbadensis
Miller is considered the most used in healing medicine and the most popular in
the world, commonly called Aloe vera.

Three types of commercial products can be obtained from the leaves of the
Aloe vera plant:

• A dry exudate, excreted from the aloin cells present in the vascular zone,
commonly called Aloe. It is a natural drug well known for its cathartic effect and
also used as a bittering agent in alcoholic beverages.

• A concentrated liquid of mucilage present in the center of the leaves, known

as gel, which is used as a dermatological product and as a beneficial agent for
the skin, by providing softness and smoothness, properties that are used in the
cosmetology industry and pharmaceutical. Additionally, this gel is used in
various drinks as a dietary supplement.

• The oil, extracted using organic solvents, is the lipid fraction of the leaves and
is used only in the cosmetological industry as a pigment carrier and sedative
agent (9, 10).
Many properties have been attributed to this plant, for example its disinfectant,
antiviral, antibacterial, laxative, radiation protection, anti-inflammatory and
immunostimulatory action (11). Its activity stands out against skin diseases,
such as dermatitis, psoriasis and against damage from irradiation, it also helps
with eye conditions. On the other hand, it helps in intestinal disorders, such as
constipation, attributing to it antidysenteric, antihemorrhoidal, healing, laxative
and choletheric action (5, 12, 13).

From adult plants (3-5 years), the outermost leaves at the base are collected to
obtain a good quality aloe pulp or aloe pulp to subsequently process it and
manufacture products suitable for the pharmaceutical, cosmetic and food
industries (Reynolds and Dweck , 1999; Choi and Chung, 2003; He et al., 2005;

The gel or pulp is a colorless gelatinous mass formed by parenchymatic cells

(Fig. 1e), structured in collenchyma and thin stone cells. The gel is mainly made
up of water, mucilage and other carbohydrates, organic acids and salts,
enzymes, sterols, triacylglycerides, amino acids, RNA, traces of alkaloids,
vitamins and various minerals (Reynolds, 2004). Topical application of aloe vera
gel stimulates fibroblast activity and collagen proliferation, promoting healing
and angiogenesis (Chithra et al., 1998).
All of these substances provide the body with many nutrients necessary for its
function, and although they are of plant origin, they are recognized by the body
as its own, being perfectly assimilated without producing any undesirable side
effects (Reynolds and Dweck, 1999). There is also evidence that suggests that
aloe vera gel contains various substances that, isolated or together, have
therapeutic effects, so a better understanding of these components and their
effects is essential to develop products from Aloe vera gel for therapeutic
purposes. therapeutics (Choi and Chung, 2003).
In the cosmetic industry, aloe vera gel has been used as a base material for the
preparation of creams, lotions, soaps, shampoos, facial creams and a wide
variety of toiletries.

 -The Gaba plus

Stops hair loss and restores hair fiber. The Niacin contained in Gaba plus is a
great ally, especially for weakened eyelashes that fall out frequently. For
stronger eyelashes. -The Inositol contained in Gaba plus and Biotin will return
the dark tone to the eyelashes in addition to having a great anti-hair loss effect.
For darker, stronger and more resistant eyelashes.

 Panthenol:
Panthenol is a colorless, transparent, viscous liquid with a slightly bitter taste. It
is an active ingredient that helps prevent vitamin B5 deficiency and its
application is in both the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.
Benefits of Panthenol on hair:
 Elasticity, shine and moisture.
 Improves combability.
 Prevents dryness.
Together with biotin, niacin and inositol, it doubles the potency of these other
principles while providing all the benefits derived from panthenol in hair care
and of course, also eyelashes. To obtain more nourished, longer and
rejuvenated eyelashes.

5. MATERIALS AND REACTIVES

 Keratin
 Allantoin
 Hydrolyzed collagen
 Beaver oil
 Aloe vera barbadensi
 Camellia sinensis extract
 Gaba plus
 Panthenol
 Vitamin E
 Lactic acid
 And other herbal extracts
 Glass or plastic jar, preferably matte and elongated
 Eyelash brush (type used in mascara) or failing that, cotton swabs or fine
brush.
 Bowls-dippers (preferably clay or ceramic, avoid metals)
 Pipettes
 Rod
 Thermometer
 Blender

6. CALCULATIONS

-Pure Aloe vera gel: 5 ml

-Hyaluronic Acid: 1 ml (0.5 ml if 2 %)
-Gaba plus (gaba+ niacin+ inositol): 1 capsule
-Collagen: 5 drops
-Elastin: 5 drops
-Biotin: 1.5 ml
-Panthenol: 1.5 ml
-Hydrogenated castor oil: 2.5ml
-Camellia oil: 1.5 ml
-Vitamin E: one pearl (1 ml if liquid tocopherol)
-80% Lactic Acid: 2 drops

7. PROCEDURE OR ING OF THE PROJECT

PHASE A : -We heat the pure aloe vera gel (or glycerin) to 60ºC. We remove
from the heat, let it rest for a couple of minutes, until the temperature is above
40ºC and add the following ingredients in this order: the Gaba capsule,
Collagen, Biotin and Panthenol.
-Beat-mix until the ingredients are well combined.
PHASE B : -On the other hand, we heat the oils (castor and camellia) up to
60ºC -Add vitamin E to the mixture of heated oils when the oils are at
approximately 40ºC
PHASE C : -Join phase A to phase B, ensuring that both mixtures are at the
same temperature (40ºC). Mix until both phases are well combined. -Add lactic
acid and mix.
-Let it rest in the refrigerator for 10 minutes, after that time it is ready to use.
- Pour into a dark or matte container. If you do not have a matte-colored
container, once the formula is finished, wrap the bottle in aluminum foil to
preserve the contents from the negative effect that light has on the active
ingredients susceptible to oxidation.
-Keep in the refrigerator.

8. RESULTS
A good-looking Serum was obtained, homogeneous, with adequate shine and
viscosity, easy to apply, over time it did not present separation, but it is
observed that after being applied it begins to migrate towards the cheeks during
the day if applied with a double layer. As a treatment, it is appropriate to apply it
4 times a day due to its colorless appearance.

9. CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS

With the diversity of essential oils, those that, according to their mechanism of
action, act as eyelash strengtheners were chosen, resulting in a new colorless
product with the desired viscosity for daily application.
At the time of preparation, it must be taken into account that there are water-
soluble and fat-soluble principles, in the order in which they have been added in
their corresponding media and phase. Vitamin E is fat-soluble, which is why it is
added to oils. Group B vitamins (biotin, Panthenol, niacin), amino acids and
acids (gaba and lactic acid) are water-soluble, which is why they are added to
the aqueous medium. Aloe gel has a lot of water and zero fat, which is why it is
in the aqueous phase. Glycerin and PG naturally contain both worlds (aqueous
part and fatty part) so they are also feasible to use in one phase or another, in
this case we use them in the aqueous phase.
 10. BIBLIOGRAPHY
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Domınguez, RN & Gutierrez G. F (2012). Aloe Vera Gel: Structure, Chemical

Composition, Processing, Biological Activity and Importance in the
Pharmaceutical and Food Industry . . Mexican Academy of Research and
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Mansilla V. (2009), Reformulation of Three Cosmetic Products in a National

Cosmetic Laboratory. Austral University of Chile.

Patin, K,. & Zambrano, J.(2015). Assessment of Allantoin (2,5-Dioxo-4-

Imidazolidinyl) Urea, in Cosmetic Creams Sold in the City of Guayaquil Based
on Snail Slime (2 Products) (Titulation Work). Guayaquil University.

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