SMOOTHED

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
******DEFINITION : Softening is the process by which
when a Softener is applied as an auxiliary product on a ******THEORETICAL FOUNDATION
textile material, it brings with it a change in touch,
giving a more pleasant sensation when touching it. Dimensional stability in fabrics refers specifically to the
Chemically, the softener bases its action on a fatty need for such articles or the garments and clothing
radical and its solubility on a hydrophilic group. made with them to always maintain their original
dimensions and as a consequence of this THE SIZE
*******CLASSIFICATION OF SOFTENERS AND SHAPES OF THE ARTICLE ARE ALWAYS
INVARIABLE.
NON-IONIC: Polyethylenes, Ethoxylates, Silicones, Therefore, an article that does not guarantee these
Waxes conditions SHOULD BE CONSIDERED UNSTABLE, and
ANIONIC: Sulfonated, Sulfated in this case said article will shrink, expand or deform
CATIONICS Quaternary ammonium salts, Amino easily.
amides, Imidazolines
******MEANING OF SHRINK
****PURPOSES OF SMOOTHING
1.- Improve the final feel of the article. Shrinkage in fabrics always means a reduction in size
2.- Facilitate the sliding of the fibers: and dimensions, especially in clothing and any other
2.1 On the perch type of clothing. Likewise, the problem of shrinkage is
2.2. In compressive shrinkage. general in all types of fabrics, whether fabrics made on
3.- Reduce the friction of the threads with metal flat looms (openwork), knitted or non-woven, and
surfaces. whatever the nature of the fibers with which they are
3.1 During weaving on the looms made, such as protein fibers (wool), cellulose fibers
3.2 During weaving on circular machines. (cotton) and synthetic fibers in general, even when there
3.3 During production on sewing machines. are a high percentage of fabrics made with mixtures of
4.- Reduce friction between threads different fibers already mentioned.
4.1 Facilitates the disappearance of wrinkles formed ******ALWAYS LATENT SHRINK
during rope dyeing. Which has the final consequence that the article is oversized
4.2 Facilitates the disappearance of wrinkles formed due to tensions and therefore with a tendency to SHRINK,
during the use of garments. ALWAYS LATENT OR WHAT IS THE SAME WITH A
4.3 Improves the toughness of the primed material. VERY SIGNIFICANT POTENTIAL SHRINK.
4.4 Helps in the elasticity of the fabric.
FUNCTIONAL FINISHES
***SOFTENERS IN PRACTICE
It is known that the buyer is first attracted by the color *******DEFINITION: Functional finishes or high-quality
or design of the garment; but then he confirms that finishes or modifying finishes strictly refer to different
attraction. However, a fabric softener is not only used to processes applied to textile articles, through which they
modify the feel, but also to serve other purposes. acquire characteristics and properties different from
those that, by nature, originally had, these are new
USES AND PROPERTIES OF SOFTENERS properties and characteristics that are directly related to
the use for which the article is intended, hence the name
Softeners are used according to the properties we need “functional finishes”.
from the articles to be finished, some of them are:
To Lubricate. ******WHY THEY ARE TAUGHT:
To prevent the formation of cracks. These have two strongly negative properties that
For ease of sewing. subsequently result in equally disadvantageous
In the wrinkle-free finish. properties of the textile.
As antistatic. These two markedly negative properties are:
Water absorption (hydrophilicity). a) Easy wrinkleability of the textile and poor recovery
Durability. power to said wrinkle.
b) A very pronounced dimensional shrinkage of the
Softeners must also be selected according to their fabric or garment made with it
behavior with the fiber to which they are applied, so we
will consider the special cases that are:
Acrylic fibers. . For the same reason and because of
their high substantivity, cationic softeners are used by
batch methods. *********Properties affected
Polyamide fibers and wool.
Cellulosic fibers. Polyester fibers.
ITS EXCELLENT HYDROPHYL QUALITY, so desired for 2 rollers: the upper metal one at a higher speed than the
clothing, especially underwear and lower soft roller.
ITS MECHANICAL RESISTANCE, which improves even MOIRÉ Known as a watermark. It is achieved by passing
more in the wet. the folded fabric over itself or with another fabric
in normal passage. It does not require marking the metal
*********MAIN APPLICATION PROCEDURES OF cylinder. It's temporary
WATERPROOF RESINS CIRÉ: It is applied to silk, rayon, nylon, satin, taffeta or
knitted fabrics, for which a special product such as wax
DRY CROSS-LINKING: is previously applied to the textile followed by
*IN-PLANT CROSS-LINKING: CONVENTIONAL, SHOCK, calendering, giving an almost metallic shine effect to the
TWO-PHASE CROSS-LINKING, PRE-CURING fabric.
*DEFERRED CROSS-LINKING: POST CURE WET Permanent calendering: Most effects were considered
CROSS-LINKING AMBIVALENT CROSS-LINKING for a long time as mechanical effects and temporary
duration, since any of them disappeared with 1 or 2
SURFACE FINISHES washes. Resins are used.

****DEFINITION:

****Types of Surface Finishes

Frosted Finish, Tufted Finish, Fried or Brushed,

calendered.

**** Calendered :

Objectives: TO GIVE THE SURFACE OF THE FABRIC A

MODIFICATION OR CHANGE OF APPEARANCE THAT
STANDS OUT TO SIGHT AND TOUCH
Technical Fundamentals: It consists of passing the
previously prepared fabric and under special conditions
between 2 rollers of solid construction so that pressure
can be applied in order to achieve a flattening of the
threads of the fabric, obtaining a specular surface that
reflects the rays of light. light that falls on it, in all its
intensity, achieving the desired polishing.
Technology Used:
They are very heavy machines made up of at least 2
heavy cylinders, and there may be several, which rest
supported on bearings with their respective axes
attached to a tree or vertical frame of metal structure.
The calenders essentially consist of rotating horizontal
cylinders, placed one above the other with axles
supported on vertical main bearings.
Some cylinders are metallic and others are covered with
a layer of cellulosic material.

******TYPES OF CALENDAR

EMBOSSING: Passage of the fabric through cylinders

engraved on relief.
The metal cylinder is the one that is engraved and
pressed on the soft cylinder and leaves the drawing on
the fabric.
SIMILIZED OR SCHREINER: The upper roller is
engraved with fine and shallow grooves or stripes
diagonally in a number of 50 to 235 stripes/cm.
When passing the fabric between the 2 rollers with a
certain percentage of humidity.
CHINTZ: Maximum brightness, reflects light in greater
proportion. It is achieved by passing the fabric between
FRIZING or PERCHING There are different versions of grinding machines; but
basically they can be divided into two categories:
Objectives: Provide the surface of the tissue with hair. Multi-roller machines
Raise the ends of the fiber, mainly those of the weft, by single roller machines
the action of a crimping machine.
Greater softness, Increased thickness. *They usually have 5 rollers; Each of these rollers are
It makes the material more insulating, giving it a warm independently driven and can rotate clockwise or
feeling. counterclockwise.
*The construction of the roller varies according to the
Technical basis : Pilling is achieved by rubbing the manufacturer, for example, there are cylindrical rollers
fabric with instruments with a barbed surface, which, by covered by an abrasive surface, grooved rotating
scratching the threads of the fabric, tear out the fibers rollers, with a high portion of these grooves with
that remain spread over the fabric. another roller covered with abrasive material and
mounted on the peripheral part of the cylinder.
Technology Used: Machinery *Adjustment rollers are located in front and behind each
It consists of a large rotating drum on which the frames roller that move THE FABRIC closer or further away
are mounted. from the ABRASIVE SURFACE.
The frames are rollers with natural gimbals or metal
cards on their surface. Resins or Self-crosslinking
The large drum rotates clockwise, while the toothed
frames can rotate in an alternate direction. Compounds that have a tendency to react with
When they do it clockwise, just like the rotating drum, themselves or self-polymerize under certain conditions,
THEY WORK BAREBACK. their application basis is based on the deposition within
When they do it in the opposite direction, THEY WORK the amorphous part of the cellulose of low molecular
AGAINST THE GROUND weight compounds and then, in the presence of catalyst
According to the types of working cylinders, milling and temperature, polymerize into high molecular weight
machines are usually divided into 2: compounds. molecular weight insoluble in water.

*Single action: all cylinders are BAREBACK only. In addition, these monomers can also react in different
*Double action: when they have both types of working other ways, depending on the conditions of the medium,
cylinders such as temperatures, pH, humidity, time, etc.

FROSTED They are preferentially used in viscose finishes.

DEFINITION Reactants
It is a surface action finish, This process also called
suede or peach skin; because what you get is the Compounds that react preferably with cellulose through
appearance of the surface of this fruit. their hydroxyl groups, forming transverse bonds
between adjacent chains by means of a covalent bridge.
AIM
Being able to react initially, with themselves and
DEVELOP A VERY SHORT SURFACE VILLUSITY ON then with cellulose, to form cross-linking products or
THE TISSUE. systems.
Depending on the fiber, the thickness of the yarn and
the intensity of the process, the feel of the article is
modified to one that is generally softer.

TECHNICAL FOUNDATION
It consists of passing the previously prepared fabric and
under special conditions between rotating cylindrical
rollers covered by an abrasive surface, grooved rotating
rollers, with a high portion of these grooves covered by
abrasive material in such a way as to achieve a
protrusion of the surface fibers of the fabric. fabric
achieving the suede effect

MERCERIZED
MACHINERY
****ORIGIN
Mercerizing had its origins in 1844 to 1850 when the This is a chemical test carried out on a sample that is
chemist JOHN MERCER, from which the name presumed to have been mercerized and on another that
mercerizing comes, casually had the spirit of sufficient is certainly known to be not mercerized. The result is
observation and the wisdom to verify the behavior of an obtained by comparing both tests.
aqueous solution of 35ºBé caustic soda, passing it to The consumption of the Barium Hydroxide solution by
through a cotton cloth that he had used as a filter. each sample is determined, knowing that the higher the
degree of mercerization will be, the greater the
*****THEORETICAL FOUNDATION consumption of the Ba(OH)2 solution, the higher the
barium index.
Mercerization is a physicochemical phenomenon that
after going through some stages, not yet fully clarified; DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
brings cellulose to the state of a cellulose hydrate: [(C6
H10 O5). H2O]no hydrated cellulose, which from a ***TECHNOLOGY USED FOR DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
chemical point of view is the same as the original
cellulose; but morphologically modified and therefore THE UNSHRINKABLE MECHANICAL TYPE FINISH
with different physical properties
*****By wetting and drying without tension
*****DEFINITION
In the case of drying branches, without tension, with
Mercerizing is a permanent action finish on textiles needles or clamps, they are anchored to metal plates
based on cellulose fibers, alone or in mixtures with which in turn form part of an endless chain moving in
other fibers; but preferably on pure cotton fabrics or vertical planes, one for each edge of the fabric and in an
yarns almost parallel position.

*****PARAMETERS The shrinkage that these equipment produces in the

fabric is only acceptable but not optimal, nor can the %
The concentration of bleach used. of shrinkage that should be imparted to the
The temperature of the process. merchandise be accurately controlled.
The action time of bleach with cellulose
Due to the greater or lesser degree of tension. *****Through supercharging system

What is the change in the structure of cotton fiber? This equipment consists of a conventional branch of
needles, moving in a horizontal plane with its chains;
but equipped at the entrance of each edge with a system
of rollers on feeders, with rigid disc brushes that rotate
in a vertical plane
A continuous progressive swelling occurs until it
reaches its maximum (as in 5) when the maximum *****Through controlled compression system.
swelling occurs, and then shrinkage occurs when the
fiber enters the wash with water and then the If an elastic material such as rubber for example (since
mercerization ceases, finally remaining stable as 7. with it can also be a special felt), with an adequate thickness,
the fiber already dry, but with an almost rounded and is forced to curve forming a wave or convex area, it is
contracted cross section. evident that on the external face the material will be
Which due to better light reflection makes the forced to extend much more. that in the internal part,
mercerized fiber shiny then the material will be limited by the compression to
which it is subjected
****Mercerized degree
STABILIZATION BY COMPACTION
The microscopic procedure
Compaction by rubber tape.
It consists of determining the exact number of
mercerized fibers and the number of non-mercerized or The principle of this system consists of placing the
poorly mercerized fibers in a sample of a certain number fabric in contact with an elastic surface at a time when
of fibers in a microscopic longitudinal view. this surface is extended so that when this surface
returns to its initial state the fabric also continues
DEGREE OF MERCERIZING=
AMOUNT OF MERCERIZED FIBER WITHOUT TORSION * 100 /
without contraction.
TOTAL AMOUNT OF FIBER OBSERVED The extension of the tape is achieved by two
procedures:
By compression and
Barium index or number By arching or curvature.
In both cases, compaction is produced by the elastic
recoil of the band after having been deformed. All achieved through very simple procedures such as
HEAT SETTING at high temperatures and variable times
Compaction by cloth. for each type of fiber, this having therefore meant
something of a challenge for cellulosic fibers and their
This procedure is based on the principle of the mixtures, since when comparing these good qualities
difference in speed between the fabric feeding zone and for The use of garments made from synthetic fibers
the shrinking sector. clearly highlighted the urgency of such improvements
The main elements of a cloth or felt shrink installation for articles made from cellulosic fibers or their mixtures.
are indicated in the following figure.
One of the main factors in determining and controlling Thermofixation is carried out on branches with hot air.
the degree of shrinkage of the finished fabric is the Typical conditions for polyester are 20-40 seconds at
moisture content of the material as it enters the 190-210°C. With delicate knitwear, work with reduced air
compaction zone. circulation to avoid deformation of the knitwear.
In practice, at least 10% humidity is needed on the fabric
if the duration of the shrinkage effect is to be
guaranteed, and, consequently, dimensional stability. Dry Crosslinking

*Reticulation in plant

Roller compaction. ***Conventional

***Shock
This system causes the fabric to shrink longitudinally ***2-phase crosslinking
when passing between two pairs of cylinders moving in ***Pre cured
the same direction; but with different speeds.
The double roller compaction system is made up of two
rollers and a curved metal surface called a “shoe” with a *Delayed cross-linking
narrow edge located at the retention point between both
rollers, although it is not in contact with them. ***Post-cure

Compaction by roller and mixer rule. Wet crosslinking

Ambivalent cross-linking
This method consists of a simple entry or feeding roller,
around which the fabric adapts in a section of its ******The conventional method, steps
periphery, and is pressed against the roller by a ruler
inclined at a certain angle, which forces the fabric to be *IMPREGNATION: With resin, catalyst and additives.
compressed as it advances. *Uniform drying ensure even distribution of resin and
later cross bonds.
The degree of compression is controlled by the angle of *Condensation or application of sufficient energy to the
attack and pressure, and also by the extent of fabric system for the reaction to take place.
surface in contact with the roller. *Washing to eliminate catalyst residues and acids
generated during condensation.
This compressive shrinkage system has had a very
limited entry in the control of shrinkage of cotton SHOCK
fabrics. Its main application is to achieve special effects
in openwork synthetic fabrics and non-woven fabrics, The difference between the conventional method and
the shock condensation method is that the
FUNCTIONAL FINISH 2 condensation is carried out in the same drying branch,
saving the passage through the oven. If the drying
Types of functional finishes for cellulosic fibers branch is long enough, in the first fields the water used
to prepare the impregnation bath will be carefully
The wrinkle-free finish or with good wrinkle recovery evaporated, leaving the last fields of the branch for the
power. reaction between the crosslinker and the fiber or self-
The unshrinkable chemical. condensation to take place. place.
The repellent to fats and oils (olofugos).
The non-flammable finish. Two-phase crosslinking
The water-repellent and waterproof finish.
The rot-proof or antimicrobial finish against bacteria The two-phase crosslinking procedure differs from the
and microorganisms in general. conventional method, in the sense that the components
of the impregnation bath have a dual mission and is a
HEAT SET step towards delayed crosslinking.
 THE STARCHY SUBSTANCES
Delayed cross-linking Starchy substances are characterized by forming so-
called pastes with hot water, while gums and mucilage
Curing takes place in the tailoring room, when the also form said paste; but still with cold water, which
garments have been made and ironed. In this way the means a very important difference when it comes to
wrinkle is sealed in the position conferred by ironing, application.
since the transverse bond occurs in said position.

Wet crosslinking procedures THE GUMS AND MUSILAGES.

This group includes a wide range of products of plant
In this procedure, use is made of an energetic catalyst, origin, whose main characteristic is to form with water,
such as a mineral acid. The action of mineral acids at even when cold, the so-called pastes, characterized by
high temperatures is known, so the temperature is kept their great adhesive power, most of them being
as low as possible. It is also necessary to use a cross- carbohydrates, with a chemical composition more
linker capable of resisting the action of acid without complex and even undefined for some particular cases.
hydrolyzing, such as: DM (OH)2 EU
Gum Arabic.
METHOD CONSISTS Tragacanth Gum.

Impregnate the fabric at room temperature with a cross- *****ALBUMINOIDS

linker and a mineral acid. Roll the fabric and wrap it with
a plastic cover to avoid any possible partial drying of These are compounds with a nitrogenous structure that,
the fabric due to contact with the environment and the through hydrolysis, give amino acids; among the best
consequent formation of hydrocellulose. known for their form of application:

Ambivalent cross-linking Glues and Jellies.

In these procedures it is feasible to regulate the angle of They are obtained from the connective tissue,
dry and wet wrinkle recovery. cartilaginous tissue or bone tissue of the animal body
and from collagen, which is an albuminoid and by
PREPARATIONS prolonged boiling the glues and gelatins are obtained.
casein
****PURPOSE The characteristic is that it is insoluble in water even at
They are applied to various textile articles, with the a pH between 3.5 and 8.5; but they are solubilized with
exclusive purpose of improving their presentation and the addition of sodium carbonate, in relation to the total
conditions of use, on the basis of achieving greater weight of the casein used, then giving viscous
weight, greater rigidity, greater cohesion, better solutions, which are used in dressings for light articles
mechanical resistance, greater body, etc. such as ribbons, gauze, which improves the resistance,
also brightening the color of the same, and also giving
*****Classification of preparations: them a good softening effect.

Of natural origin SEMI-SYNTHETIC PREPARATIONS

It refers to those that have undergone a small degree of
transformation of physical or mechanical origin for their ******DEFINITIONS
application. Specifically, it refers to the group of compounds that are
Semi synthetic obtained by reacting cellulose with different specific
Made from natural products, for example cellulose reactive agents.
derivatives, used in multiple forms according to their As is well known, cellulose in each β-glucose residue
corresponding properties has three reactable hydroxyl groups of an alcoholic
Synthetics nature, of which two of them are secondary in nature:
Expressly manufactured to impart defined finishes and those on carbon 2 and 3 respectively, and one primary
behaviors to the textile. These being the most numerous is on carbon 6, being also the latter the most active or
and the most widely used due more than anything to the the most reactive
great advance of applied science and the chemical
industry in particular.

NATURAL ORIGIN

Carbohydrate-based products: They are almost entirely

of plant origin:
*******CLASSIFICATION This type of resins, due to the action of heat and
The reactions of these hydroxyl groups of cellulose give temperature, soften and become malleable or moldable,
rise, in general, to two types of compounds or cellulosic retaining these new shapes after subsequent cooling.
derivatives.
Compounds with ETHER bond, USE
They are considered resins that modify the molecular
They are obtained in an alkaline medium and can be structure, although there are some that act only as
soluble in water, said solubility greatly depending on resinifiers or as simple fillers in the amorphous zone of
the degree of substitution of the product. the fiber.

Cellulose- O – C(X)2R
where R can be an alkyl or aryl group and
X can be hydrogen, an alkyl group, etc.

Alcohols: Cellulose Ethers

Hydroxyalkyls: Hydroxyethers of cellulose
Carboxyalkyls: Cellulose carboxyethers

Compounds with an ESTER bond ,

They are insoluble in water and are obtained in an acid

medium, these cellulosic ester derivatives are therefore
intended for obtaining covering finishes, since they
have the property of forming a film on the textile
surface, while those derived from the cellulosic ether
type are applied to textiles according to their variable
solubility characteristics as simple additive finishes

Cellulose – O- CO- R
Nitrocellulose
cellulose acetate

SYNTHETIC ADDITIONAL SIZES

These are a wide variety of products known under the

generic name of synthetic resins, obtained industrially
as a result of the well-known chemical condensation
and chemical polymerization processes, so it is
important to clarify that not all resins can be considered
polymers.
Some resins such as alkyds, aminoplasts (urea-formol)
and phenoplasts (phenol-formaldehyde) are actually
supercondensed rather than true polymers.

Thermostable or thermosetting resins

They are called that because, as the heat or temperature

increases, they harden, become more rigid and
infusible.

USE
They serve as an external action finisher on the textile,
that is, as additive finishes, almost all of them by
coating or by forming films.

Thermoplastic resins
Addition polymers make up the so-called group of
thermoplastic resins.