SMOOTHED
SMOOTHED
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
******DEFINITION : Softening is the process by which
when a Softener is applied as an auxiliary product on a ******THEORETICAL FOUNDATION
textile material, it brings with it a change in touch,
giving a more pleasant sensation when touching it. Dimensional stability in fabrics refers specifically to the
Chemically, the softener bases its action on a fatty need for such articles or the garments and clothing
radical and its solubility on a hydrophilic group. made with them to always maintain their original
dimensions and as a consequence of this THE SIZE
*******CLASSIFICATION OF SOFTENERS AND SHAPES OF THE ARTICLE ARE ALWAYS
INVARIABLE.
NON-IONIC: Polyethylenes, Ethoxylates, Silicones, Therefore, an article that does not guarantee these
Waxes conditions SHOULD BE CONSIDERED UNSTABLE, and
ANIONIC: Sulfonated, Sulfated in this case said article will shrink, expand or deform
CATIONICS Quaternary ammonium salts, Amino easily.
amides, Imidazolines
******MEANING OF SHRINK
****PURPOSES OF SMOOTHING
1.- Improve the final feel of the article. Shrinkage in fabrics always means a reduction in size
2.- Facilitate the sliding of the fibers: and dimensions, especially in clothing and any other
2.1 On the perch type of clothing. Likewise, the problem of shrinkage is
2.2. In compressive shrinkage. general in all types of fabrics, whether fabrics made on
3.- Reduce the friction of the threads with metal flat looms (openwork), knitted or non-woven, and
surfaces. whatever the nature of the fibers with which they are
3.1 During weaving on the looms made, such as protein fibers (wool), cellulose fibers
3.2 During weaving on circular machines. (cotton) and synthetic fibers in general, even when there
3.3 During production on sewing machines. are a high percentage of fabrics made with mixtures of
4.- Reduce friction between threads different fibers already mentioned.
4.1 Facilitates the disappearance of wrinkles formed ******ALWAYS LATENT SHRINK
during rope dyeing. Which has the final consequence that the article is oversized
4.2 Facilitates the disappearance of wrinkles formed due to tensions and therefore with a tendency to SHRINK,
during the use of garments. ALWAYS LATENT OR WHAT IS THE SAME WITH A
4.3 Improves the toughness of the primed material. VERY SIGNIFICANT POTENTIAL SHRINK.
4.4 Helps in the elasticity of the fabric.
FUNCTIONAL FINISHES
***SOFTENERS IN PRACTICE
It is known that the buyer is first attracted by the color *******DEFINITION: Functional finishes or high-quality
or design of the garment; but then he confirms that finishes or modifying finishes strictly refer to different
attraction. However, a fabric softener is not only used to processes applied to textile articles, through which they
modify the feel, but also to serve other purposes. acquire characteristics and properties different from
those that, by nature, originally had, these are new
USES AND PROPERTIES OF SOFTENERS properties and characteristics that are directly related to
the use for which the article is intended, hence the name
Softeners are used according to the properties we need “functional finishes”.
from the articles to be finished, some of them are:
To Lubricate. ******WHY THEY ARE TAUGHT:
To prevent the formation of cracks. These have two strongly negative properties that
For ease of sewing. subsequently result in equally disadvantageous
In the wrinkle-free finish. properties of the textile.
As antistatic. These two markedly negative properties are:
Water absorption (hydrophilicity). a) Easy wrinkleability of the textile and poor recovery
Durability. power to said wrinkle.
b) A very pronounced dimensional shrinkage of the
Softeners must also be selected according to their fabric or garment made with it
behavior with the fiber to which they are applied, so we
will consider the special cases that are:
Acrylic fibers. . For the same reason and because of
their high substantivity, cationic softeners are used by
batch methods. *********Properties affected
Polyamide fibers and wool.
Cellulosic fibers. Polyester fibers.
ITS EXCELLENT HYDROPHYL QUALITY, so desired for 2 rollers: the upper metal one at a higher speed than the
clothing, especially underwear and lower soft roller.
ITS MECHANICAL RESISTANCE, which improves even MOIRÉ Known as a watermark. It is achieved by passing
more in the wet. the folded fabric over itself or with another fabric
in normal passage. It does not require marking the metal
*********MAIN APPLICATION PROCEDURES OF cylinder. It's temporary
WATERPROOF RESINS CIRÉ: It is applied to silk, rayon, nylon, satin, taffeta or
knitted fabrics, for which a special product such as wax
DRY CROSS-LINKING: is previously applied to the textile followed by
*IN-PLANT CROSS-LINKING: CONVENTIONAL, SHOCK, calendering, giving an almost metallic shine effect to the
TWO-PHASE CROSS-LINKING, PRE-CURING fabric.
*DEFERRED CROSS-LINKING: POST CURE WET Permanent calendering: Most effects were considered
CROSS-LINKING AMBIVALENT CROSS-LINKING for a long time as mechanical effects and temporary
duration, since any of them disappeared with 1 or 2
SURFACE FINISHES washes. Resins are used.
****DEFINITION:
**** Calendered :
******TYPES OF CALENDAR
*Single action: all cylinders are BAREBACK only. In addition, these monomers can also react in different
*Double action: when they have both types of working other ways, depending on the conditions of the medium,
cylinders such as temperatures, pH, humidity, time, etc.
DEFINITION Reactants
It is a surface action finish, This process also called
suede or peach skin; because what you get is the Compounds that react preferably with cellulose through
appearance of the surface of this fruit. their hydroxyl groups, forming transverse bonds
between adjacent chains by means of a covalent bridge.
AIM
Being able to react initially, with themselves and
DEVELOP A VERY SHORT SURFACE VILLUSITY ON then with cellulose, to form cross-linking products or
THE TISSUE. systems.
Depending on the fiber, the thickness of the yarn and
the intensity of the process, the feel of the article is
modified to one that is generally softer.
TECHNICAL FOUNDATION
It consists of passing the previously prepared fabric and
under special conditions between rotating cylindrical
rollers covered by an abrasive surface, grooved rotating
rollers, with a high portion of these grooves covered by
abrasive material in such a way as to achieve a
protrusion of the surface fibers of the fabric. fabric
achieving the suede effect
MERCERIZED
MACHINERY
****ORIGIN
Mercerizing had its origins in 1844 to 1850 when the This is a chemical test carried out on a sample that is
chemist JOHN MERCER, from which the name presumed to have been mercerized and on another that
mercerizing comes, casually had the spirit of sufficient is certainly known to be not mercerized. The result is
observation and the wisdom to verify the behavior of an obtained by comparing both tests.
aqueous solution of 35ºBé caustic soda, passing it to The consumption of the Barium Hydroxide solution by
through a cotton cloth that he had used as a filter. each sample is determined, knowing that the higher the
degree of mercerization will be, the greater the
*****THEORETICAL FOUNDATION consumption of the Ba(OH)2 solution, the higher the
barium index.
Mercerization is a physicochemical phenomenon that
after going through some stages, not yet fully clarified; DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
brings cellulose to the state of a cellulose hydrate: [(C6
H10 O5). H2O]no hydrated cellulose, which from a ***TECHNOLOGY USED FOR DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
chemical point of view is the same as the original
cellulose; but morphologically modified and therefore THE UNSHRINKABLE MECHANICAL TYPE FINISH
with different physical properties
*****By wetting and drying without tension
*****DEFINITION
In the case of drying branches, without tension, with
Mercerizing is a permanent action finish on textiles needles or clamps, they are anchored to metal plates
based on cellulose fibers, alone or in mixtures with which in turn form part of an endless chain moving in
other fibers; but preferably on pure cotton fabrics or vertical planes, one for each edge of the fabric and in an
yarns almost parallel position.
What is the change in the structure of cotton fiber? This equipment consists of a conventional branch of
needles, moving in a horizontal plane with its chains;
but equipped at the entrance of each edge with a system
of rollers on feeders, with rigid disc brushes that rotate
in a vertical plane
A continuous progressive swelling occurs until it
reaches its maximum (as in 5) when the maximum *****Through controlled compression system.
swelling occurs, and then shrinkage occurs when the
fiber enters the wash with water and then the If an elastic material such as rubber for example (since
mercerization ceases, finally remaining stable as 7. with it can also be a special felt), with an adequate thickness,
the fiber already dry, but with an almost rounded and is forced to curve forming a wave or convex area, it is
contracted cross section. evident that on the external face the material will be
Which due to better light reflection makes the forced to extend much more. that in the internal part,
mercerized fiber shiny then the material will be limited by the compression to
which it is subjected
****Mercerized degree
STABILIZATION BY COMPACTION
The microscopic procedure
Compaction by rubber tape.
It consists of determining the exact number of
mercerized fibers and the number of non-mercerized or The principle of this system consists of placing the
poorly mercerized fibers in a sample of a certain number fabric in contact with an elastic surface at a time when
of fibers in a microscopic longitudinal view. this surface is extended so that when this surface
returns to its initial state the fabric also continues
DEGREE OF MERCERIZING=
AMOUNT OF MERCERIZED FIBER WITHOUT TORSION * 100 /
without contraction.
TOTAL AMOUNT OF FIBER OBSERVED The extension of the tape is achieved by two
procedures:
By compression and
Barium index or number By arching or curvature.
In both cases, compaction is produced by the elastic
recoil of the band after having been deformed. All achieved through very simple procedures such as
HEAT SETTING at high temperatures and variable times
Compaction by cloth. for each type of fiber, this having therefore meant
something of a challenge for cellulosic fibers and their
This procedure is based on the principle of the mixtures, since when comparing these good qualities
difference in speed between the fabric feeding zone and for The use of garments made from synthetic fibers
the shrinking sector. clearly highlighted the urgency of such improvements
The main elements of a cloth or felt shrink installation for articles made from cellulosic fibers or their mixtures.
are indicated in the following figure.
One of the main factors in determining and controlling Thermofixation is carried out on branches with hot air.
the degree of shrinkage of the finished fabric is the Typical conditions for polyester are 20-40 seconds at
moisture content of the material as it enters the 190-210°C. With delicate knitwear, work with reduced air
compaction zone. circulation to avoid deformation of the knitwear.
In practice, at least 10% humidity is needed on the fabric
if the duration of the shrinkage effect is to be
guaranteed, and, consequently, dimensional stability. Dry Crosslinking
*Reticulation in plant
In these procedures it is feasible to regulate the angle of They are obtained from the connective tissue,
dry and wet wrinkle recovery. cartilaginous tissue or bone tissue of the animal body
and from collagen, which is an albuminoid and by
PREPARATIONS prolonged boiling the glues and gelatins are obtained.
casein
****PURPOSE The characteristic is that it is insoluble in water even at
They are applied to various textile articles, with the a pH between 3.5 and 8.5; but they are solubilized with
exclusive purpose of improving their presentation and the addition of sodium carbonate, in relation to the total
conditions of use, on the basis of achieving greater weight of the casein used, then giving viscous
weight, greater rigidity, greater cohesion, better solutions, which are used in dressings for light articles
mechanical resistance, greater body, etc. such as ribbons, gauze, which improves the resistance,
also brightening the color of the same, and also giving
*****Classification of preparations: them a good softening effect.
NATURAL ORIGIN
Cellulose- O – C(X)2R
where R can be an alkyl or aryl group and
X can be hydrogen, an alkyl group, etc.
Cellulose – O- CO- R
Nitrocellulose
cellulose acetate
USE
They serve as an external action finisher on the textile,
that is, as additive finishes, almost all of them by
coating or by forming films.
Thermoplastic resins
Addition polymers make up the so-called group of
thermoplastic resins.