Card
Card
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My starting point was an Any Card At Any Number effect
published by Al Baker in 1933 that used two decks of cards. 1
Both decks start in a memorized order, one of which is placed
aside and the other shuffied. A number is named, and the card
at that stack number in the shuffied deck is found, then forced
on the spectator. The named number is then dealt down to in
the still-stacked deck. The named card is found at that number.
Boom, classic.
W hen both cards are turned face up they are both the Jack of
Spades. A perfect match.
Method Overview
'TI1e method is actually rather simple: it's a bluff and a force. The
rest is all theater.
The red deck has a few simple markings on a card, which you
will force. The blue deck has four duplicate cards distributed
evenly throughout the deck, allowing you easy access to one of
the duplicates no matter what number the spectator chooses.
You will never need to displace more than three cards in either
direction in order to show a perfect match.
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Moves
There are no real moves in this routine, which is by design. The
more I can do out in the open, the less I have to accomplish
using sleight of hand.
Props Needed
• A red Bicycle deck
• A blue Bicycle deck
• A fine-point red Sharpie
• A fine-point blue Sharpie
• A fine-point pencil
• Three extra, blue-backed,Jacks of Spades
Visual Option
With the fine-point red Sharpie, find the pattern on the back of
the Bicycle deck that looks like a flower petal. Figure 2. Fill in
the inner circle of the pattern in all four spots where it appears.
J:-"'i gure 3.
'W hen you see the mark as you deal the cards, it will let you
know it's time to start bluffing.
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Tactile Option
If you find the visual marking system to be a little obvious for
your tastes, there is a sneakier option. For those who are familiar
with punch work, it is a simple task to punch the card in a spot
where you will feel it as you deal it, allowing you to stop on the
correct card without needing to look.
The red deck is now ready to roll. Give it a thorough shuffie and
slip it back in its case.
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TheseJacks are visually marked the
same as the Jack of Spades in the
red deck. Figure 5. The markings
aren't as important as they are
in the red deck, but I include
them to have another layer of
confirmation while performing.
If something goes wrong (and
with enough performances it
will), the markings provide me
plenty of time to find a way out
and fix it.
From the top to the face, the Jacks occupy every twelfth
position. Those locations are 12, 24, 36, 48. From the face to the
back, the positions are 5, 17, 29, 41. 2 Depending on whether
you deal from the top or the face of the deck, you will never be
more than three cards away from having the Jack of Spades at
the thought-of position. This works with any number between
3-50. If they name a number outside of this range it will still
work. You will just have to shift more cards to make it happen.
Once you have positioned the Jacks, put the deck back into the
box with the fa<::e of the pack closest to the flap.
Set both decks onto the table, leaning against each other as in
Figure 6, next page, and you are ready to begin.
2. O thers have used this spacing principle to force a card or cards; see Peter Nardi's
effect "The Holy Grail", and Shin Lim's effect "Think".
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Choreography
This is the opener to my formal close-up show, so I begin with
a man to my right and a woman to my left. Invite the woman
(we'll call her Spectator #1) to choose one of the decks. I've
found that people tend to choose the deck staring them in the
face, so I place the red deck closer to Spectator #1. This doesn't
guarantee she'll choose it, but I find it increases my odds of
success. If she picks up the blue deck, ask her to hold on to it,
and then ask the man (we'll call him Spectator #2) to pick up
the red deck.
Assuming Spectator #1 chooses the red deck, ask her to take the
cards out of the box and shuflle them. To make sure everyone
can see the cards being thoroughly shuflled, ask her to mix
them in a wash on the table. Figure 7. I have her do this for two
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reasons: I want to destroy any thought of a memorized deck
and I want to cancel out the idea of a tapered or gimmicked
deck of any kind. The haphazard nature of this shuffle is very
disarming. Don't overlook it.
'1 want to make sure we are on the same wavelength. I'm going to
have you think ofany number between 1 and 52. I'll do the same,
and at the end, we can see how close we got. "
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This is the time to make sure your force card (the Jack of
Spades) is roughly 15-20 cards from the top of the red pack.
Do this by slightly beveling the deck and looking for the pencil
edge marking. If you find the card to be too high or too low in
the pack, simply cut the pack. Figure 8.
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We could go to the trouble ofshifting the Jack to a predetermined
number every time, and there are certainly mathematically
based moves that do it automatically. However, if I have the
option of telling a lie or doing a move, I will always tell a lie.
It's much harder to catch a lie than a move.
Begin dealing from the top of the deck, counting out loud
as you go. If you count confidently and deliberately, no one
will question you when you stop. While you are dealing and
counting, keep your eyes on the left hand's packet and keep
a sharp lookout for the markings. By watching the stationary
left hand instead of the moving right, it's much easier to see
the marks, which will leave you enough time to end your count
with an emphasis. More clearly, the counting doesn't just stop,
it ends.
Once you see the marking on the card, place it near the front of
the table. Let's imagine that we stopped on number 17. Point
out that ifyou would have dealt one card further or stopped one
card earlier, you would have ended on a completely different
card.
'1 said this wasn't about the numbers themselves. It was about
what they stood far. I wanted to make sure we were on the same
wavelength, and I'm pretty sure this shows that we are a perfect
match."
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routine. And it allows you to reference the difference in numbers
to help clarify the plot. Gather the remaining red cards and
place them to the side.
Remember, the four force cards are located at 12, 24, 36, and 48
when dealing from the top; and 5, 17, 29, and 41 when dealing
from the face. In my experience, without doing anything, it
is very likely you will have a perfect hit on your hands. The
math says that it will happen 15% of the time, but I find that it
happens much more often than that. If not, never fear, because
you will never have to displace more than three cards.
A Perfect Hit
L et's take a hypothetical example. Imagine that Spectator #2
names 24, a perfect hit when counting from the top ofthe pack.
Invite him to take the cards out of the box carefully and hold
them face down in his left hand. Ask him to deal cards one at a
time face up into a pile so that everyone can see that all of the
cards are different.
If the number named is greater than 12, then the spectator will
pass by one or more duplicate Jack of Spades as he deals. This
won't be noticed because the duplicates are 12 cards apart, plus
you haven't revealed your card yet, so they don't know what to
look for.
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Once he has dealt 23 cards, ask him to deal the next card face up,
next to your card, at the front of the table. Show the audience
that if he had dealt one more card, he would have ended on a
different card.
'1 said this wasn't about the numbers themselves. It was about
what they stoodfor. I wanted to make sure we were on the same
wavelength, and I'm pretty sure this shows that you are the perfect
person for the job. "
Turn over your card and show that it is a perfect match, and
then figure out the tax benefits of starting your own religion.
Figure 9.
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In The Case of Subtraction
While you will frequently get a perfect hit, it doesn't always
happen. The second-best option is if the spectator's number is
close to but less than one of the target positions. When this
happens you will remove 1-3 cards from either the top or
bottom of the deck, as you take the cards from the box, leaving
the removed cards behind.
If he says 22, the closest number is 24 from the top, so you need
to leave 2 cards from the top of the deck inside the case.
Open the box and pull the deck halfway out. Look up at the
spectator and ask him to confirm which number he named.
When he looks up at you, push the required number of cards
back into the box. Figure 10 is exposed for clarity. Once you've
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pushed the cards back inside the box, remove the rest of the
deck and place the box to the side.
Ask the spectator to deal 14 cards from the face of the pack
into a pile on the table. Once he has finished counting, ask him
to deal the 15th card to the front of the table.
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Let's imagine Spectator #2 chooses the number 38. Our closest
target to that number is 36th from the top of the pack, so two
cards must be moved from the face to the top to move the card
to the 38th position.
Again, the rule of thumb is that the side (top or face of the
deck) that you need to subtract cards from should be closest to
the floor. In this case we need to move cards from the face of
the deck again, so the box should be held flap side down. As
with the subtraction method, pull the deck halfway out of the
box and push two cards back into the box with your .fingers.
Remove the deck completely from the box and place it face
down into the spectator's hand. Then, as you place the box to
the side, pretend to notice the cards remaining inside the box.
Casually remove them and add them to the top of the deck in
the spectator's hands. This doesn't need a line or justification
because it's not a move. The force card is now 38 cards from the
top of the deck.
If he says 13, the closest number is 12 from the top, so you shift
1 card from the face to the top.
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As before, have them deal down to their named number and
show it is a perfect match to the Jack of Spades.
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