BLEPT - Basic Electronics
BLEPT - Basic Electronics
LET Competencies:
1. Apply the Fundamentals of Electronics in Household Appliances
2. Identify Electronic Tools and Components used in Common Household Appliances
3. Interpret Electronics Schematic Diagram
4. Analyze Basic Electronic Circuit Trouble in Appliances
5. Appraise the Result of Simple Electronic Circuit Repair
Fundamentals of Electronic
Electronics
Electronics is the branch of science and engineering concerned with the theory, design,
and the use of devices which involve the transmission of power by utilizing electron emission or
absorption. Electronics includes all aspects of photoelectric cells, transistors, circuits, cathode-ray
tubes, electron tubes, oscilloscopes, electron microscopes, broadcasting, radio, television,
telephone, and many other industries.
Definition of Terms
1. Passive – Capable of operating without an external power source. A typical passive
components are resistors, capacitors, inductors and diodes (although the latter are a
special case).
2. Active – Requiring a source of power to operate. It includes transistors (all types),
integrated circuits (all types), TRIACs, SCRs, LEDs, etc.
3. Electronic components - is any physical entity in an electronic system whose intention is
to affect the electrons or their associated fields in a desired manner consistent with the
intended function of the electronic system
4. Electrical Circuit - is a network that has a closed loop, giving a return path for the current
5. Network - is a connection of two or more components, and may not necessarily be a
circuit
6. Conductors – are metals and other substances where electrons can move freely
7. Insulators – substances where electrons cannot move freely
8. Transformer – is an electronic devised used in producing desired voltage
9. Inductors – the choke or coil in a circuit that oppose changes in electric current
10. Semiconductors – a group that are neither good conductors nor good insulators
9. Side-Cutting Pliers - 4-inch side cutting pliers will come in handy as one of the electronic
tools when one need to trim off excess component leads on the printed circuit board. It
can also be used to cut wires into shorter length before being used.
10. Small tweezers - is used to hold small components especially when doing soldering and
de-soldering of surface mount components.
11. Philips Head Screwdrivers -various sizes of Philips head screwdrivers will be handy as a
lot of electronics projects that use screws are Philips Head type.
12. Flat Head Screwdrivers - of various sizes are also necessary as many screws that are used
are of this type.
13. Hammer - a small, light hammer will be useful when assembling projects that involved
casing.
Electronic Components
These are the basic electronic element usually packaged in a discrete form with two or
more connecting leads or metallic pads in which intended to be connected together, usually by
soldering to a printed circuit board, to create an electronic circuit with a particular function (for
example an amplifier, radio receiver, or oscillator) may be packaged singly (resistor, capacitor,
transistor, diode etc.) or in more or less complex groups as integrated circuits (operational
amplifier, resistor array, logic gate etc.)
1. Capacitors
Capacitor is a device able to temporarily store electricity. It was invented by Ewald Georg
von Kleist (October 1745). These relatively simple components consist of two pieces of conducting
material (such as metal) separated by a non-conducting (insulating) material called a dielectric.
When a voltage potential difference exists between the conductors, an electric field is present in
the dielectric. This field stores energy and produces a mechanical force between the plates. The
effect is greatest between wide, flat, parallel, narrowly separated conductors.
Types of Capacitor
Component Circuit Symbol Function of Component
A capacitor stores electric charge. A capacitor is
used with a resistor in a timing circuit. It can
Capacitor
also be used as a filter, to block DC signals but
pass AC signals.
A capacitor stores electric charge. This type
must be connected the correct way round. A
Capacitor, polarized capacitor is used with a resistor in a timing
circuit. It can also be used as a filter, to block DC
signals but pass AC signals.
Variable Capacitor A variable capacitor is used in a radio tuner.
This type of variable capacitor (a trimmer) is
operated with a small screwdriver or similar
Trimmer Capacitor
tool. It is designed to be set when the circuit is
made and then left without further adjustment.
2. Diode
This device is used to limit the movement of electricity to move in one specific direction.
Some diodes are also designed to produce light or to act as a switch in an electrical circuit. It has
two active electrodes between which the signal of interest may flow, and most are used for their
unidirectional electric current property. Diode also allows an electric current to flow through them
in only one direction. They are also known as rectifiers. It can be used to change alternating
currents (ones flowing back and forth round a circuit, constantly swapping direction) into direct
currents (ones that always flow in the same direction).
Types of Diode
Component Circuit Symbol Function of Component
This type of diode allows current to flow in one
Diode
direction.
Light Emitting This type diode permits the transfer of electric
Diode (LED) current between the electrodes to produced light
Avalanche This type diode operates in the reverse bias, and
Diode used avalanche effect for its operation.
This type of diodes feature lower forward voltage
Schottky Diodes drop as compared to the ordinary silicon PN junction
diodes
A special type of diode which is used to maintain a
Zener diode fixed or stable reference voltage across its terminals.
3. Transistor
An electrical circuit needs to have switches to control the current. In electronic
equipment, the most useful kind of switch is the transistor. Transistors is invented by William
Shockley which considered by many as the father of transistor. This device commonly varies in
composition and in the arrangement of the components. It is use to amplify or switch electronics
signals which is made of a solid piece of a semiconductor material, with at least three terminals
for connection to an external circuit. The diagram below shows the components in one kind of
transistor.
Types of Transistor
Component Circuit Symbol Function of Component
A transistor amplifies current. It can be used with
Transistor NPN other components to make an amplifier or
switching circuit.
4. Resistor
This device is the simplest components in any circuit. With a measurable ability to resist
the flow of electrons used to control the strength of the current in a circuit. Resistors come in
many different shapes and sizes.
Kinds of Resistor
Component Circuit Symbol Function of Component
Resistor is an electrical component that
Resistor
reduces the electric current.
This type of variable resistor with 2
contacts (a rheostat) is usually used to
control current. Examples include:
Variable Resistor
adjusting lamp brightness, adjusting
(Rheostat)
motor speed, and adjusting the rate of
flow of charge into a capacitor in a timing
circuit.
This type of variable resistor with 3
contacts (a potentiometer) is usually used
Variable Resistor to control voltage. It can be used like this
(Potentiometer) as a transducer converting position (angle
of the control spindle) to an electrical
signal.
Summary
Capacitor: A device able to filter and temporarily store electricity
Diode: A device that is used to limit the movement of electricity to move in one specific
direction. Some diodes are also designed to produce light or to act as a switch in an
electrical circuit.
Resistor: A device with a measurable ability to resist the flow of electrons used to control
the strength of the current in a circuit
Transistor: A type of switch that contains no moving parts and uses electricity to turn
itself on and off
Breadboard
Temporary, no soldering required
This is a way of making a temporary circuit, for testing purposes or to try out an idea.
No soldering is required and all the components can be re-used afterwards.
It is easy to change connections and replace components
Strip board
Permanent, soldered
Strip board has parallel strips of copper track on one side. The strips are 0.1" (2.54mm)
apart and there are holes every 0.1" (2.54mm).
Strip board requires no special preparation other than cutting to size. It can be cut with a
junior hacksaw, or simply snap it along the lines of holes by putting it over the edge of a
bench or table and pushing hard.
Pictorial Diagram
The simplest among diagrams
It shows a picture or sketch of the various components of a specific system and the wiring
between these components
This type of diagram shows the various components without regard to their physical
location, how the wiring is marked, or how the wiring is routed.
Logic Gates
Gate Traditional
IEC Symbol Function of Gate
Type Symbol
A NOT gate can only have one input. The 'o' on
the output means 'not'. The output of a NOT
NOT gate is the inverse (opposite) of its input, so the
output is true when the input is false. A NOT
gate is also called an inverter.
An AND gate can have two or more inputs. The
AND output of an AND gate is true when all its inputs
are true.
A NAND gate can have two or more inputs. The
'o' on the output means 'not' showing that it is a
NAND
Not AND gate. The output of a NAND gate is true
unless all its inputs are false.
An OR gate can have two or more inputs. The
OR output of an OR gate is true when at least one of
its inputs is true.
A NOR gate can have two or more inputs. The 'o'
on the output means 'not' showing that it is a
NOR
Not OR gate. The output of a NOR gate is true
when none of its inputs are true.
An EX-OR gate can only have two inputs. The
EX-OR output of an EX-OR gate is true when its inputs
are different (one true, one false).
An EX-NOR gate can only have two inputs. The
'o' on the output means 'not' showing that it is a
EX-NOR Not EX-OR gate. The output of an EX-NOR gate
is true when its inputs are the same (both true
or both false).
2. Bad internal connections - broken wires, corroded or loosened terminals. Wires may break
from vibration, corrosion, poor manufacturing, as well as thermal fatigue. The break may be
in a heating element or other subassembly. In many cases, failure will be total as in when one
of the AC line connections falls off. At other times, operation will be intermittent or erratic -
or parts of the appliance will not function. For example, with a blow dryer, the heating
element could open up but the fan may continue to run properly.
3. Short circuits – When two wires touching or contacting the metal case of an appliance
happens too often. Partially, this is due to the shoddy manufacturing quality of many small
appliances like toaster ovens. These also have metal (mostly) cabinets and many metal
interior parts with sharp edges which can readily eat through wire insulation due to repeated
vibrations, heating and cooling cycles, and the like.
4. A short circuit may develop with no operational problems - but the case of the appliance will
be electrically 'hot'. This is a dangerous situation. Large appliances with 3 wire plugs - plugged
into a properly grounded 3 wire circuit - would then blow a fuse or trip a circuit breaker.
However, small appliances like toaster, broilers, irons, etc., have two wire plugs and will just
set there with a live cabinet.
5. Worn, dirty, or broken switches or thermostat contacts - These will result in erratic or no
action when the switch is flipped or thermostat knob is turned. In many cases, the part will
feel bad - it won't have that 'click' it had when new or may be hard to turn or flip. Often,
however, operation will just be erratic - jiggling the switch or knob will make the motor or
light go on or off, for example.
7. Broken or worn drive belts or gears - rotating parts do not rotate or turn slowly or with little
power even through the motor is revving its little head off. When the brush drive belt in an
upright vacuum cleaner breaks, the results are obvious and the broken belt often falls to the
ground (to be eaten by the dog or mistaken for a mouse tail. However, there are often other
belts inside appliances which will result in less obvious consequences when they loosen with
age or fail completely.
8. Broken parts - plastic or metal castings, linkages, washers, and other 'doodads' are often not
constructed quite the way they used to be. When any of these fail, they can bring a
complicated appliance to its knees. Failure may be caused by normal wear and tear, improper
use, accidents, or shoddy manufacturing.
9. Insect damage - Many appliances make inviting homes for all sorts of multi- legged creatures.
Evidence of their visits or extended stays will be obvious including frayed insulation, short
circuits caused by bodily fluids or entire bodies, remains of food and droppings. Even the
smallest ventilation hole can be a front door.
1. Broken wiring inside cord set - If the problem is intermittent, plug the appliance in and turn
it on. Then try bending or pushing the wire toward the plug or appliance connector end to see
if you can make the internal conductors touch at least momentarily. If the cord set is
removable, test between ends with a continuity checker or multimeter on the low ohms scale.
If it is not detachable, open the appliance to perform this test.
2. Bad internal connections - In many cases, a visual inspection with some careful flexing and
prodding will reveal the location of the bad connection. If it is an intermittent, this may need
to be done with a well insulated stick while the appliance is on and running. When all else
fails, the use of a continuity checker or multimeter on the low ohms scale can identify broken
connections which are not obviously wires visibly broken in two. For testing heating elements,
use the multimeter as a continuity checker may not be sensitive enough since the element
normally has some resistance.
3. Short circuits -Visually inspect for bare wires or wires with frayed or worn insulation touching
metal parts, terminals they should not be connected to, or other wires. Use a multi-meter on
the high ohms scale to check between both prongs of the AC plug and any exposed metal
parts. Try all positions of any power or selector switches. Any resistance measurement less
than 100K ohms or so is cause for concern - and further checking. Also test between internal
terminals and wires that should not be connected together.
4. Worn, dirty, or broken switches or thermostat contacts - Where there is a changed feel to
the switch or thermostat with an associated operational problem, there is little doubt that
the part is bad and must be replaced. Where this is not the case, label the connections to the
switch or thermostat and then remove the wires. Use the continuity checker or ohmmeter
across each set of contacts. They should be 0 ohms or open depending on the position of the
switch or knob and nothing in between. In most cases, you should be able to obtain both
readings. The exception is with respect to thermostats where room temperature is off one
end of their range. Inability to make the contacts open or close or erratic intermediate
resistances which are affected by tapping or jiggling are a sure sign of a bad set of contacts.
5. Gummed up lubrication, or worn or dry bearings - If the appliance does not run but there is
a hum (AC line operated appliances) or runs sluggishly or with less power than you recall when
new, lubrication problems are likely. With the appliance unplugged, check for free rotation of
the motor(s). In general, the shaft sticking out of the motor itself should turn freely with very
little resistance. If it is difficult to turn, the motor bearings themselves may need attention or
the mechanism attached to the motor may be filled with crud. In most cases, a thorough
cleaning to remove all the old dried up and contaminated oil or grease followed by relubing
with similar oil or grease as appropriate will return the appliance to good health. Don't skimp
on the disassembly - total cleaning will be best. Even the motor should be carefully removed
and broken down to its component parts - end plates, rotor, and stator, brushes (if any) in
order to properly clean and lubricate its bearings.
6. Broken or worn drive belts or gears - Except for the case of a vacuum cleaner where the belt
is readily accessible, open the appliance. A good rubber belt will be perfectly elastic and will
return to its relaxed length instantly when stretched by 25 percent and let go. It will not be
cracked, shiny, hard, or brittle. A V-type belt should be dry (no oil coating), undamaged (not
cracked, brittle, or frayed), and tight (it should deflect 1/4" to 1/2" when pressed firmly
halfway between the pulleys).
7. Broken parts - In many cases, the problem will be obvious. Where it is not, some careful
detective work - putting the various mechanisms through their paces - should reveal what is
not functioning. Although replacement parts may be available, you can be sure that their cost
will be excessive and improvisation may ultimately be the best approach to repair.