•

994 66
 TABLE OF CONTENTS
Section Page

2
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
SPECIFICATIONS •

7
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
CONTROLS. • • •
• • • •
• • • • • 13
RIDING. • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • 21
SERVICING • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 0

23
ENGINE • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
TRANSMISSIONAND CHAINS • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
25
CHASSIS • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 27
• • • • • • •
31
MAINTENANCE • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

ENGINE • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 31
TRANSMISSION • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
37
CHASSIS • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 43
• • • • • •
ELECTRICAL• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
51

Ho..-ley-Oovidson products ore manufoctured under one or more of the follc:,wing potents:
U. S. Patents - 0-199,479, 2510222, 2574739, 2770869, 2783927,
2788676, 2872660, 2986162, 2987934, 2998009, 3116089, 31 ◄◄860,
3144631. CanocHanPatents -487981, 490652.

Price 75 cents
Part No. 99460-66 Printed in U.S. A .
Orig. 6-65 ,
As the owner of a new Harley-Davidson motorcycle, you will enjoy a
thrilling new experience in motorcycling pleasure. Harley-Davidson
has designed for you the ultimate in motorcycles - speed, acceleration,
comfort and safety - precision built and engineered to give you many
thousands of miles of dependable, carefree riding.
This handbook contains information you will need to know to operate
and care for your Harley-Davidson so that it will provide dependable and
trouble-free service. Follow the instructions carefully and you will be
assured of the best performance that your motorcycle can give.

This handbook is intended for the owner and contains instructions for
owner care and maintenance of a minor nature. Information covering
repair of major units such as engine, transmission, etc. is provided in
the Harley-Davidson Service Manual. Work of this kind requires the
attention of a skilled motorcycle mechanic and the use of special tools
and equipment. Your Harley-Davidson dealer has the facilities, exper-
ience, and genuine Harley-Davidson parts to properly render this
valuable service.
NOTE
Tools for owner use, as recommended in this
handbook for service and minor repairs, are
supplied in a tool kit which can be purchased
from your Harley-Davidson Dealer.
1
 Torque ...... FLH .... 65 lb-ft at 3,200 R.P.M.
FL ..... 62 lb-ft at 3,200 R.P.M.
SPECIFICATIONS Compression Ratio .. FLH. . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 1
FL .......... 7.25tol

DIMENSIONS NOTE

Wheel Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 in. The engine (serial) number (11, fig. 2) of

Overall Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 in. your Harley-Davidson is stamped on the
Overall Width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 in. left side of the engine crankcase. Always
give this number when ordering parts or
CAPACITIES making any inquiry about your motorcycle.

Fuel Tank Total ..... 5or3-3/4 Gallons (U.S.)

Reserve ... 1 or 1-1/4 Gallon (U.S.) IGNITION SYSTEM
Oil Tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 quarts (U.S.)
Transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-1/2 Pints (U.S.) Circuit Breaker Point Gap . . . . . . . . . . .022 in.
Spark Plugs - Size. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 mm
ENGINE Gap. . . . . . . . . . . . 025 to .030 in.
Heat range for average use . No. 3-4
Model Designation Letters .......... FL - FLH Spark Timing ............. Retard 5° B.T.C.
Number of Cylinders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Automatic Advance. . . . . . . . . . . . . 35° B. T .C.
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Degree V Type
Horsepower . . FLH ... 60.0 HP at 5,400 R.P.M. TRANSMISSION
FL .... 55.0 HP at 5,400 R.P.M.
Taxable Horsepower. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.44 Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Constant Mesh
Bore ................. 3-7/16 in. (87.3mm) Speeds - Foot Shift . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Forward
Stroke .............. 3-31/32 in. (100.8mm) Hand Shift . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Forward
Piston Displacement. . . . . 73.66 cu. in. (1207 cc) (Optional) 3 Forward and 1 Reverse

2
 SPROCKETS AND GEAR RATIOS TIRE DATA

Solo Sidecar Tire Pressure - PSI

Sprocket Teeth FL FLH FL FLH Tire Size Front Rear Sidecar

Clutch 37 37 37 37 Solo Rider 4.00 X 18 14 16

4.50 X 18 12 14
Transmission 22 22 22 22 5.00 X 16 12 14

Rear Wheel 51 51 51 51 Rider and One 4.00 X 18 18 26

Passenger 4.50 X 18 12 16
5.00 X 16 12 16
Engine Sprocket (4-Speed
Transmission) 23 24 22 22 Rider And One 4.00 X 18 20 24 14
Sidecar Pass- 4.50 X 18 14 16 14
Engine Sprocket (3-Speed enger or 150 lb. 5.00 X 16 14 16 14
Transmission) 23 24 1-9 22

High Gear Ratio (4-Speed IMPORTANT

Transmission) 3.73 3.57 3.90 3.90
5.00 x 16 tires supplied as original equip-
High Gear Ratio (3-Speed ment on Electra-Glide Models are identi-
Transmission) 3.73 3.57 4.50 3.90 fied by the numeral "100" on tire sidewall.
These tires were designed especially for
The following tire inflation pressures are based on your Harley- 0a vidson Electra-Glide to pro-
rider and passenger weights of approximately 150 vide maximum roadability. When tires need
lbs. each. For each 50 lbs. extra weight, increase replacement, use only type "100 11 tires
pressure of rear tire 2 lbs., front tire 1 lb., and which are readily obtainable at your Harley-
sidecar tire 1 lb. Davidson dealer.
3
 1 2 3 4 5 6

15 13 12 11 10 9 8

l. Tail Lamp 6. Head Lock 11. Regulator

2. Oil Tank Cap and Gauge 7. Safety Guard 12. Electric Starter
3. Carburetor Choke Lever 8. Hydraulic Brake Master Cylinder 13. Transmission Oil Filler Plug
4. Carburetor Air Cleaner 9. Ignition Circuit Breaker 14. Battery
5. Gas Tank Valve 10. Oil Pump and Pressure Switch 15. Rear Shock Absorber

4 FIGURE 1. RIGHT SIDE VIEW

 1 2 3

12 11 10 9 7

1. Headlamp 5. Rear Shock Absorber 10. Timing Inspection Hole Plug

2. Headlamp Dimmer Switch 6. Oil Tank Drain Plug 11. Engine (Serial) Number
3. lgn it ion Coil 7. Oil Tank 12. Generator
4. Rear Drive Chain 8. Front Chain Inspection Hole Cover 13, Hand Clutch Booster
9. JiffyStand

FIGURE 2. LEFT SIDE VIEW 5

 1. Clutch Hand Lever
2. Hom Button
3. Grip
4. Instrument Panel Signal Lights
5. Foot Gear Shift Lever
6. Left Foot Boord
7. Gos Tonk Cop (2)
8. Starter Button
9. Front Broke Hond Lever
10. Throttle Control Grip
11. Speedometer
12 12. Ignition-Light Switch
6--
13 13. Reor Hydroulic Broke Foot Lever
14 14. Right Foot Board
15. Starter Cronk Pedal
15

FIGURE 3. TOP VIEW

6
 horizontal position. Turning the unmarked handle
to vertical position turns on main gasoline supply;
turning "RESERVE" handle to vertical position
turns on reserve supply. Use "Premium Grade"
(Ethyl) or other anti-knock gasoline.
Gasoline Supply Valve
Ignition-Light Switch
The gasoline supply valve (5, figure 1) is located
on the right side under the gas tank. The valve The ignition-light switch (12, figure 3) is located
(figure 4) has two handles; one is marked "RE- on the instrument panel. Lift lock cover and use
SERVE" and the other is unmarked. Gasoline switch key to lock or unlock. It is not necessary
to carburetor is shut off when both handles are in to keep the key inserted in the lock to operate

PARKING LIGHTS
OFF IGNITION
ONLY
b GASOLINE
__,,.,.STRAINER l ONLY

~ MAIN
SUPPLY ,, / RUNNING LIGHTS
AND IGNITION
(ON) -.......__
I
MAIN_,,. ,,,,
SUPPLY
(OFF) ~,'
·-RESERVE
SUPPLY
RESERVE (ON)
SUPPLY
(OFF)

FIGURE 4. GASOLINE SUPPLY VALVE

' FIGURE 5. IGNITION-LIGHT SWITCH

7
this switch after it has been unlocked. The center
position of the switch (figure 5) is the off position
for both lights and ignition. The left of center
position is for parking lights only; the first right
position is for ignition only and the second right
position, for ignition and running lights. The switch SHIFT
can be locked only in the off and the park positions. LEVER----J
Remember that lighting the headlamp when the
engine is not running also turns the ignition on.
Make a record of key number so that it can easily
be replaced in case of loss. PIVOT
SHAFT
Throttle Control Grip

Turn the throttle control grip (10, figure 3) out-

ward to close throttle; turn it inward. to open
throttle. SHIFTER
SPRING
Clutch Foot Pedal
HANDSHIFT
The clutch foot pedal is located on the left side GATE
where it may be conveniently operated by the left
foot. The clutch is engaged when the toe is down
and released when the heel is down.
Hand Gear Shift Lever SUPPORT ROD
BRACKET CLEVIS
The hand gear shift lever (figure 6) is located
on the left side and the various positions are
plainly marked on shifter gate. This lever must FIGURE 6. HAND GEAR SHIFT LEVER

8
be at neutral (N) and the clutch engaged when Neutral position is between first (low) and second
starting the engine. FULLY RELEASE THE gears, and is indicated by green light on the
CLUTCH BEFORE SHIFTING. Move upper ball instrument panel when ignition-light switch is
end of lever forward to shift into 1st, 2nd and turned on. First gear is the last gear position
3rd gears. Move shift lever to rear of neutral obtained by pushing foot lever full strokes down-
to shift into reverse. Gear positions are marked ward. To shift from first gear to neutral, lift
on gate. foot lever one half of its full stroke. The shift
to neutral can also be made from second gear
Clutch Hand Lever by pushing foot lever downward one half its full
stroke.
The clutch hand lever (1, figure 3) is located on
the left handle bar where it can be conveniently
operated with the left hand. The clutch is released With the motorcycle standing still and the engine
by squeezing the control lever to the ~andle bar. not running, it usually will be necessary to move
The clutch is engaged by slowly releasing the the motorcycle backward or forward with the
control lever to its extended position. clutch fully disengaged while maintaining a slight
pressure on the foot shift lever before a shift
Foot Gear Shift Lever from one gear to another can be made. Even
with the engine running, clutch disengaged and
The foot gear shift lever (5, figure 3) is located the motorcycle standing still, it may be difficult
on the left side where it may be conveniently to shift gears because transmission gears are
operated by the left foot. Pushing foot lever all not turning and shifting parts are not lined up
the way down (full stroke) shifts transmission to permit engagement. When this happens, do not
into the next lower gear; lifting foot lever all the under any circumstances force the shift by "rough-
way up (full stroke) shifts transmission into the ing" the foot lever; the results of such abuse
next higher gear. The operator must release foot will be a damaged or broken shift mechanism.
lever after each gear change to allow it to return Either roll the motorcycle as indicated above
to its central position before another gear change or, if the engine is running, engage the clutch
can be attempted or made. very slightly and at the same time apply light

9
pressure to the foot lever to make the shift. Starter Crank
Both these procedures set the transmission gears The starter crank pedal (15, figure 3) is located
in motion and permit the shift to be made easily. on the right side and has a spring return. To
start the engine, kick the starter crank down
Brakes
with vigorous strokes to turn the engine over.
The brake foot pedal (13, figure 3) on the right Steering Damper {Special Equipment)
hand side operates the rear wheel hydraulic brake
while a convenient hand lever (9, figure 3) operates Steering damper is located directly over steering
the front wheel mechanical brake. head. Turn steering damper adjusting knob clock-
wise to apply dampening action and counterclock-
Head Lock wise to reduce dampening action. For solo riding,
apply steering damper only when operating under
The head lock (6, figure 1) is located on the right conditions where some degree of dampening stabil-
side and locks the front wheel at an angle to the izes steering. Sidecar users will find it advanta-
left. To lock, turn the front wheel to the left, geous to keep the damper set a little snug at
as the head lock key is turned 1/2 turn (180°), all times.
where steering becomes locked and wheel cannot
be turned. Horn
NOTE The horn is operated by the horn button (2,
figure 3) on the left handlebar. Tone can be set
Make a record of key number so that as desired by turning the adjusting screw back
it can be easily replaced in case of loss. of horn.

Electric Starter Oil and Generator Signal Lights

The starter button (8, figure 3) is located on In addition to the neutral indicator light described
the right handlebar. Push button to operate starting on page 9, there are two signal lights on the
motor. instrument panel. One is marked GEN and the

10
other is marked OIL. When the engine is running, the oil return pipe when the engine is running.
both lights out indicate that the generator is If it is returning to the tank there is some cir-
charging normally and that oil is circulating culation, and you may drive slowly to the nearest
normally. Trouble is indicated when one or both Harley-Davidson dealer to have the oiling system
lights are on. Both lights will go on when the checked and serviced, as needed. If no oil re-
ignition-light switch is turned on before starting turns to the tank, stop the engine at once and do
the engine. After the engine has started, both not drive farther until the trouble is located
lights should go off except at slow idling speeds. and the necessary repairs are made.
The generator signal light will normally flash
on and off at slow idle or at road speeds below Adjustable Trail Front Fork
20 mph in high gear, because at these speeds (Special Equipment)
generator output is very low and unsteady. If
the generator signal light fails to go off at speeds This type fork is used on motorcycles intended
above about 20 mph, the generator is either not for sidecar service. The forks are pivoted so that
charging at all, or its output is below normal and the wheel can be adjusted forward for less trail
it should be inspected at once. (in sidecar service), or the wheel can be ad-
justed rearward for more trail (in solo service).
If the oil signal light fails to go off at speeds Normally, this fork is adjusted for solo service
above idling, it is usually due to an empty oil as shipped from the factory, and must be read-
tank or a diluted oil supply. In freezing weather justed for sidecar service as follows:
the oil feed pipe may clog with ice and sludge,
thus preventing circulation of the oil. A grounded 1. Raise front end of motorcycle so front wheel
oil signal switch wire, faulty signal switch, or is free. Underneath fork head lower bracket
trouble with the oil pump will also cause the is a large bolt with castellated nut locked
light to stay on. If the oil signal light fails to with a cotter pin. This bolt fastens lower
go off, always check the oil supply first. Then, fork bracket to fork stem bracket which has
if oil supply is normal and the light still does a slotted hole for the bolt. Remove cotter
not go out, look inside the oil tank and see if pin from nut and back off nut far enough
the oil returns to the tank from the outlet of so that lock plates underneath bolt bead and

11
 bolt nut can be disengaged from slots in
each side of fork bracket. Now grasp front
wheel and pull fork sides forward as far as
elongated holes in bracket will permit. Re-
engage lock plates in elongated holes with
plate engaging to the front. Securely tighten
nut and insert cotter pin.
2. Re-aim headlamp after fork is readjusted.
(See page 51 .)
3. For solo service, when sidecar is removed,
move fork back by reversing above procedure.

Rear Shock Absorber Spring Adjustment

The rear shock absorber springs can be adjusted
to three positions for the weight the motorcycle
is to carry. The average weight solo rider would
use the extended spring position (off cam). A
heavy solo rider might require the position with
springs slightly compressed (first cam step);
buddy seat riders require the fully compressed
spring position (second cam step).
To adjust the rear shock absorber springs, turn
cushion spring adjusting cam (figure 7) to desired
position with spanner wrench. Both cushion spring
adjusting cams must be adjusted to the same
position. A spanner wrench for this purpose is Fl GU RE 7. REAR SHOCK ABSORBER
available from your Harley-Davidson dealer. SPRING ADJUSTMENT

12
The First 500 Miles

The sound design, quality materials, and work-

manship that is built into your new Harley-
Davidson will give you high performance right
from the start.
However, for the first few hundred miles, towear-
in critical parts, observe the few simple driving Starting and Stopping Instructions
rules below. This will guarantee future performance
and durability. IMPORTANT
Use recommended oil in relation to pre-
1. During the first 50 miles, keep the speed dominating temperatures. See engine lubri-
below 45 miles per hour. cation, page 23.
2. Up to 500 miles, vary the speed, avoiding When starting the engine determine that the motor-
any steady speed for long distances. Any cycle is in neutral and that the clutch is fully
speed up to the maximum legal limit is per- engaged.
missible for short distances. Electric Starter
3. Avoid fast starts at wide open throttle and In very cold weather, move choke lever (3, figure 1)
over-speeding engine in lower gears. Drive up to the fully closed position before starting a
slowly until engine warms up. cold engine.
13
Move the choke lever up to 1/2 closed position Kick Starter
before starting a warm engine.
Using the starter crank bring either cylinder to
It is not necessary to use the choke to start a hot its compression stroke and follow through with
engine, that is an engine that is near normal run- a full stroke of the starter crank.
ning temperature.
To start a cold engine in cold or warm weather,
With the throttle 1/8 to 1/ 4 open, turn the ignition move choke lever (3, figure 2) up to the fully
switch on and operate electric starter. closed (prime) position. Open throttle full, and
with ignition switch off, kick the starter pedal
down twice to prime the cylinders. Then move
As soon as the engine starts, open choke far enough choke lever down one notch in cold weather or
to keep it running while warming up. As the engine two notches in warm weather. With the throttle
warms up and misfires because of the over-rich nearly closed, turn the ignition switch on and
mixture, gradually move the choke lever upward start engine with a vigorous stroke of the starter
to fully open position. pedal.

As soon as the engine starts, open the throttle

NOTE just far enough to keep it running while warming
up or until ready to set the motorcycle in motion.
When the engine does not start after a few As the engine warms up and misfires because of
revolutions or if one cylinder fires weakly the over-rich mixture, gradually move the choke
but engine does not start, it is usually lever downward to fully open position.
because of an over-rich (flooded) condition.
This is especially true of a hot engine. To start a warm engine, move the choke lever
If the engine is flooded, open choke all up to 1/2 closed position, set the throttle 1/ 4
the way, turn ignition on and operate starter open, turn on the ignition switch and start engine
with wide open throttle. with vigorous strokes of the starter pedal.

14
To start a hot engine, that is, an engine that is start the engine, fully release the clutch, shift
near normal running temperature, it is not neces- into first and slowly engage the clutch. After
sary to use the choke lever. With throttle 1/ 4 desired speed is attained in first, fully disengage
open, turn on ignition switch and kick the starter the clutch, lift the foot lever all the way up to
pedal down quickly. With some engines, depend.ing shift into second and again engage clutch. Shift
on carburetor adjustment, hot starting is more in like manner for third and fourth gears.
dependable if the starter pedal is given one stroke
before turning on ignition switch. DO NOT SHIFT GEARS WITHOUT FULLY DIS-
ENGAGING THE CLUTCH.
NOTE
CAUTION
When the engine does not start within 2
or 3 starting kicks, or if one cylinder When the motorcycle is in motion and it
fires weakly but engine does not start, is desired to shift to lower gears, do not
it is usually because of an over-rich shift from "third" to "second" until speed
(flooded) condition. This is especially true is reduced to 20 mph or less; do not shift
of a hot engine. If the engine is flooded, from "second" to ''first" until speed is re-
turn off the ignition and crank the engine duced to below 10 mph. Shifting to lower
over 3 or 4 times with wide open throttle. gears when speeds are too high may result
This will clear the engine. Then follow in damage to the transmission.
correct starting technique as previously
described for cold, warm or hot engine. Stopping the Engine

Operation stop the engine by turning off the ignition switch.

If the engine should be stalled or stopped in any
With motorcycle standing (engine stopped) proceed other way than with the switch, turn off the switch
as follows to get under way. Determine that trans- at once to prevent battery discharge through the
mission is in neutral and clutch is fully engaged. circuit breaker points.

15
Operating Tips service or fouling in the case of very light
service.
Develop the habit of frequently snapping the throttle
shut for an instant when running at high speed.
When plugs need to be replaced, get them from
This draws additional lubrication to pistons and
your Harley-Davidson dealer. He can supply you
cylinders and helps cooling.
with the type of plug best suited to your re-
In cold weather run engine slowly until it is quirements. Experimenting with plugs of unproven
thoroughly warmed up to avoid possible damage to quality and suitability is inviting trouble.
pistons, rings, and other parts before oil is warm
enough to circulate freely. locating Operating Troubles

An engine which has run long distances at high

The following check list of operating troubles and
speed, particularly in sidecar service, must be
their probable causes will be helpful in keeping
given closer than ordinary attention to avoid over-
your motorcycle in good operating condition. Re-
heating and possible consequent damage. Have
member that more than one of these conditions
the engine checked regularly and keep it well tuned.
may be causing the trouble and all should be
Valve seating and good compression are partic-
carefully checked.
ularly important. The carburetor should be ad-
justed moderately rich rather than lean. Inspect
spark plugs often for god condition. This applies /irengine starts hard or runs unevenly or misses:
particularly to a motorcycle equipped with wind-
shield. 1. Spark plugs in bad condition or have improper
gap.
Do not idle engine unnecessarily with motorcycle 2. Circuit breaker points out of adjustment or in
standing still. The spark plugs originally installed need of cleaning.
in the engine are of the proper heat range for 3. Condenser connection loose.
most normal operating conditions. However, more 4. Battery nearly discharged.
severe than average service or very light service 5. Loose wire connection at one of battery ter-
may call for a spark plug of a different heat range minals or at coil or circuit breaker.
to prevent overheating, in the case of very severe 6. Water or dirt in fuel system and carburetor.

16
 7. Gasline tank cap vent plugged and tank air ~f engine pre-ignites:
bound. 1. Excessive carbon on piston head or in com-
8. Carburetor not adjusted correctly. bustion chamber.
9. Engine and transmission oil too heavy (winter 2. Too hot a spark plug for the kind of service.
/ operation). /3. Defective spark plugs.
If cranking motor does not operate: • If engine overheats:
1. Insufficient oil supply or oil not circulating.
1. Ignition switch is not on. 2. Carburetor high speed adjustment too lean.
2. Transmission is not in neutral. / 3. Ignition timing too late.
3. Discharged battery, or loose or corroded
connections. . If engine detonates:
4. Starter control circuit or solenoid defective. 1. Unsuitable fuel (octane rating too low).
2. Heavy deposit of carbon on piston and in com-
-v<f engine turns over but does not start:
bustion chamber.
3. Defective spark plug or of wrong heat range.
1. Gasoline tank empty, valve shut off or gaso- / 4. Igniti0n timing too early.
line line clogged.
2. Fouled spark plugs or shorted spark plug If oil does not return to oil tank:
wires. 1. Oil tank empty.
3. Circuit breaker points badly out of adjustment. / 2. Oil pump not functioning.
4. Loose wire connection at coil or circuit
breaker. If engine uses too much oil:
5. Sticking valves or tappets set too tight.
/ 6. Engine flooded as a result of overchoking. 1. Piston rings badly worn or in bad condition.
2. One or more push rod cover cork washers
If a spark plug fouls repeatedly: in bad condition or a push rod cover not
1. Too cold a plug for the kind of service. seating properly against its washer.
2. Piston rings badly worn or in bad condition. 3. Chain oiler adjusted for excessive amount of oil.
17
/rrvibration is excessive: /irtransmission jumps out of gear:

1. Cylinder bracket loose or broken. 1. Shifter rod improperly adjusted.

2. Engine mounting bolts loose. 2. Shifter clutch dogs and/or dogs on its mating
3. Transmission and/or transmission submount- gear badly worn.
ing plate loose.

/if generator does not charge or charging rate is

Irrclutch slips:
below normal: 1. Clutch controls improperly adjusted.
2. Insufficient clutch spring tension.
1. Brushes badly worn. 3. Friction discs oily.
2. Brushes sticking in holders.
3.
4.
Commutator dirty or oily.
Loose or broken wire in generator-battery-
/ifclutch drags or does not release:

regulator circuit. 1. Clutch controls improperly adjusted.

5. Regulator not functioning properly. 2. Clutch spring tension too tight.
6. Defective generator armature. 3. Friction discs gummy or oily.
7. Broken field coil wire or loose terminal.

/ircarburetor floods:
Irrbrakes do not hold normally:

1. Brake improperly adjusted.

1. Float set too high. 2. Brake controls binding as result of improper
2. Float valve and/or valve seat worn or damaged. lubrication or damage.
3. Dirt between float valve and its seat. 3. Brake linings impregnated with grease as
/irtransmission shifts hard:
result of overgreasing wheel hub.
4. Brake linings badly worn.
1. Bent shifter rod. 5. Hydraulic system contains air or master
2. Clutch dragging slightly. cylinder reservoir low on hydraulic brake fluid.
3. Transmission oil too heavy (winter operation). 6. Leak in hydraulic system.

18
 6. Never "crash" a light. When a change is indi-
RULES OF THE ROAD cated from "Go" to "Stop" (or vice versa) in
the traffic control systems at intersections,
1. Keep on the right side of the road when meet- await the change.
ing other vehicles coming in the opposite
direction. 7. When intending to turn to the left, give signal
at least 100 feet before reaching the turning
2. Always sound your horn and pass on the left point. Move over to the center line of the
side when passing other vehicles going in street (unless local rules require otherwise),
the same direction. Never try to pass an- slow down passing the intersection of the
other vehicle going in the same direction street and then turn carefully to the left.
at street intersections, on curves, or when
8. In turning either right or left, watch for pe-
going up or down a hill.
destrians as well as vehicles.
3. At street intersections give the right-of-way 9. Do not leave the curb or parking area without
to the vehicle on your right. Do not presume signaling and seeing that your way is clear to
too much when you have the right-of-way; the drive into moving traffic. A moving line of
other driver may not know you have it. traffic has the right-of-way.
10. See that your license tags are installed in
4. Always signal when preparing to stop, start,
the position specified by law and that they
or turn. are clearly visible under all conditions. Keep
them clean.
5. All traffic signs, including those used for the
control of traffic at intersections, should be 11. Ride at a safe speed - a speed consistent with
obeyed promptly and to the letter. "Slow Down" the type of highway you are on, and always note
signs near schools and caution signs at rail- whether the road is dry or wet. Each varying
road crossings should always be observed and condition on the highway means adjusting your
your actions governed accordingly. speed accordingly.

19
 4. Lubricate all points indicated for 2000 mile
attention in the SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
CHART.
5. Aim headlight.
New Motorcycle Initial Service 6. Check front fork bearing adjustment.
After a new motorcycle has been driven its first 7. Clean carburetor gas strainer.
500 -miles and again at approximately 1000 miles, 8. Clean chain housing magnetic drain plug.
the motorcycle should be taken to the dealer from
whom it was purchased for certain initial service 9. Inspect and clean spark plugs.
operations with which the dealer is familiar. 10. Check ignition timing and circuit breaker
II it is impossible to take the motorcycle to a point gap.
dealer at the mileage intervals mentioned, the
owner should at least give the following outlined 11. Oil all control joints and parts indicated for
attention, or arrange to have it given, and take 2000 mile attention.
the motorcycle to the dealer for more complete 12. Inspect and service air cleaner if needed.
servicing later on when convenient to do so.
13. Check adjustment of chains and readjust if
necessary.
CHECK AT FIRST 500 MILES
14. Check lubrication of chains.
1. Drain oil tank through drain plug (6, figure 2)
flush tank and refill with fresh oil. 15. Check all nuts, bolts and screws, and tighten
any found loose.
2. Clean oil filter.
16. Check wheel mounting socket bolts and tighten
3. Drain transmission through drain plug and if needed. These bolts must be kept very tight.
refill to level of filler opening with fresh oil.
Use same grade oil used in engine. 17. Check and tighten wheel spokes.
20
18. Check level of solution in battery and add 8. Check level of solution in battery, and add
distilled water if needed. See that terminals distilled water if needed. See that terminals
are clean and connections tight. are clean and connections tight.
19. Check tightness of all cylinder head bolts 9. Check brake adjustment and hydraulic fluid
and all cylinder base nuts, and tighten where level.
necessary.
20. Check brake adjustment and hydraulic fluid 10. Check clutch adjustment.
level. 11. Check tire pressure and inspect tread.
21. Check clutch adjustment. 12. Road test.
22. Check tire pressure and inspect tread.
Regular Service Intervals
23. Road test.
Regular motorcycle lubrication and maintenance
CHECK AT FIRST 1000 MILES will help you keep your new Harley-Davidson
1. Drain oil tank and refill with fresh oil. operating at peak performance, and will give you
lower operating costs, longer motorcycle life,
2. Clean oil filter. and greater riding pleasure. Your Harley-Davidson
3. Check level of oil in transmission and add dealer knows best how to service your motorcycle
oil if needed. Use same grade of oil used in with factory approved methods and equipment as-
engine. suring you of thorough and competent workman-
ship for every job.
4. Service air cleaner.
5. Check circuit breaker point gap. The chart on page 22 shows the regular
intervals at which specified service operations
6. Check adjustment of chains and adjust if neces- should be performed. For more detailed description
sary. of the service and maintenance procedures speci-
7. Check lubrication of chains. fied, refer to information following after chart.

21
 SERVICEAND MAINTENANCECHART

- REGULAR
SERVICE INTERVAL
ENGINE
.-
TRANSMJSSION GREASE OIL SERVICE
OIL OIL
EVERY
300 MILES CHECK

EVERY CHECK CHECK Rear Chain

1000 MILES Air Cleaner
Battery
Rear Chain ~uatment
Hydraulic Brake Fluid
EVERY CHANGE Rear Fork Pivot Bearing Fitting Clutch Hand Lever
2000 MILES OU Filter
Seat Post Bralce Hand Lever Gasoline 8tralner
Baddie Bar Bearing Clutch Control cable Front Chain ~uatment
Rear Brake Pedal Bearing Front Brake Cable Rear Cbain Oller
Foot Shift Lever Bearing Throttle Control cable Brake ~uatment
Rand Clutch Booeter Bearing Clutch Lever .RodClev18 Circuit Breaker
Front Wheel Hub Thrust Bearing Shifter Control Joints Clutch ~uatment
Rear Wheel Hub Thrust Bearing
Foot Clutch Pedal Bearing
EVERY CHANGE Speedometer and Tachometer Cables
5000 MILES OR Generator
Throttle Control Spiral Replace:
I YEAR Front Wheel Hub (Center)
whichever comes Spark Plugs
Rear Wheel Hub (Center) Oil Filler
first Sidecar Wheel Hub (Center) Time Ignition
Switch Tires
Check Front and Rear Fork
Bearing Adjustment
I WEEKLY
Check Ttrea
Check Battery
SPRING AND FALL CHANGE CHANGE

22
 ENGINE REMOVE TANK CAP AND CHECK OIL SUPPLY
NOT MORE THAN 300 MILES AFTER EACH
COMPLETE REFILL. If oil level is found near
Lubrication
11
ADD" mark or gauge rod, add one quart. When
level is down to "DANGER" mark, two quarts
should be added.
Use Predominating
Harley-Davidson Temperature
Oil Grade {oF.) CAUTION

Regular Heavy 105 75 or above Do notallow oil level to go below the

Medium Heavy 75 75 to 32 "DANGER" mark on gauge rod.
Special Light 58 32 or below
Oil will run cooler and mileage will be somewhat
Your Harley-Davidson dealer will have the correct higher with oil level well up in tank. Furthermore,
oil for your requirements. unless oil tank is kept well filled, frequent checking
of oil level will be necessary to avoid any chance
The oil tank capacity is 4 quarts and is considered of running dry.
full when the oil level is up to "FULL" mark on
gage rod. Do not fill above this level, as the tank
needs some air space. Tighten the cap securely Oil should be changed after the first 500 miles
to prevent leakage. The oil signal light in the and 1000 miles for a new engine, and thereafter
center of the instrument panel indicates oil cir- at about 2000 mile intervals in normal service
culation (see page 10). Oil mileage normally varies at warm or moderate temperatures. Oil change
from 250 to 500 miles per quart depending on intervals should be shorter in cold weather -
the nature of service, solo or sidecar, fast or See "Winter Lubrication." Completely drain oil
moderate driving, and how well the engine is tank of used oil and refill with fresh oil. If ser-
kept tuned. If mileage is not within this range, vice is extremely bard or on dusty roads or in
see your dealer. competition, drain and refill at shorter invervals.

23
Draining should be done after a run while oil to get the crankcase thoroughly warmed up, fre-
is hot. It is not necessary to drain the crankcase quently, most of this water is again vaporized
as it does not accumulate used oil. At the time of and blown out through the breather. However, a
the first 500 mile oil change, and along with at moderately driven engine, making only short runs
least every second oil change thereafter, thoroughly now and then and seldom being thoroughly warmed
flush and clean out tank with kerosene to remove up, is likely to accumulate an increasing amount
any sediment and sludge that may have accumu - of water in the oil tank. This water will, in freezing
lated. Your dealer has facilities for quick flushing weather, become slush or ice and if allowed to
and cleaning of oil tank. accumulate too long, will block oil lines and
damage the engine. Also, water mixed with oil
for some time forms sludge that is harmful to
Oil Filter the engine and causes undue wear of various
working parts. Therefore, in winter the oil change
Oil filter is located in the oil tank below filler interval should be shorter than normal for all
cap. To service the filter, remove it from oil engines, and any engine used only for short runs,
tank, remove retaining spring from top of filter particularly in commercial service, must have oil
and disassemble. Thoroughly wash the filter ele- changed frequently along with a thorough tank
ment in clean gasoline or solvent at least once flushout to remove any water and sludge, before
every 2,000 miles when the engine oil is changed. new oil is put in tank. The farther below freezing
the temperature drops, the shorter the oil change
Renew filter element every 5,000 miles. interval should be.

Winter Lubrication
Air Cleaner
Combustion in any engine generates water vapor.
When starting and warming up in cold weather, METAL MESH TYPE FILTER ELEMENT: In
much of the vapor condenses to water on relatively normal service on hard surfaced roads, remove
cool metal surfaces. If engine is driven enough air cleaner mesh, wash in gasoline, and saturate

24
with engine oil at least every 1000 miles, or TRANSMISSION AND CHAINS
oftener under dusty service conditions. In extremely
dusty service, clean and oil filter mesh every Transmission
100 miles or at least once a day.
Use same grade of oil used in engine.

Remove transmission oil filler plug (13, figure 1)

DRY CORRUGATED TYPE FILTER ELEMENT: and check oil level every month or every 1000
In normal service on hard surfaced roads, remove miles, whichever comes first. Add oil if necessary
air cleaner cartridge every 1000 miles, and shake and fill to the level of the filler opening. The
cartridge by tapping lightly to remove loose dirt. motorcycle should be standing STRAIGHT UP, not
If surfaces of element are oily or sooted, wash leaning on jiffy stand, when adding oil to the
in gasoline. Since in time the element becomes transmission. Drain transmission and refill to
plugged with dirt, the cartridge should be replaced correct level with fresh, clean oil after the first
at least every 5000 miles. In extremely dusty 500 miles, and thereafter seasonally or every
service, both cleaning and cartridge replacement 5,000 miles, whichever comes first. If transmission
should be done more often. should become submerged in water, drain it im-
mediately and refill to proper level.

Chains
Gasoline Strainer
Front Chain
The gasoline strainer is located on top of the
gasoline supply valve inside the gasoline tank A fixed amount of oil is supplied through an oil
(see figure 4). If the supply of gasoline is impeded, line from a metering orifice in the oil pump. Oil
as indicated by irregular carburetion, remove the drops on front chain from oiler outlet tube (10,
gasoline supply valve from the tank and thoroughly figure 12). Excess oil collects at rear of chain
clean the gasoline strainer. Be sure to drain the compartment and is drawn back into engine gear
tank before removing the gasoline supply valve. case breather.

25
 When the front chain adjustment is checked at
2000 mile intervals (see page 43), also check
to see that oil comes out of oiler tube when
engine is running, when viewing through cover
inspection hole (1, figure 8). Ii oil does not come
from oiler, supply orifice at pump is probably
blocked due to accumulation of dirt, and requires
cleaning. To do this, remove orifice screw and
washer from oil pump and blow out passage to
chain compartment with compressed air.

Rear Chain

Under normal operating conditions brush the dirt

off and lubricate the rear chain at 1000 mile in-
tervals. Lubricate with Harley-Davidson "Chain
Saver," ''Chain Spray" or "Chain Grease" if
available; if not available, use lightest engine oil
1 2 3 available.

Ii motorcycle is equipped with rear chain oiler,

disregard above instructions and proceed as fol-
1. Chain Inspection Cover lows: At regular 2000 mile intervals, make a
2. Inspection Cover Screws (4) close inspection of rear chain. Ii rear chain does
3. Chain Housing Cover Screws (8) not appear to be getting sufficient lubrication,
or if there is evidence of an over-supply of oil,
URE 8. CHAIN INSPECTION COVER readjustment should be made with rear chain
26
oiler adjusting screw. The rear chain oiler is CHASSIS
located on the oil return line. Normal setting
is 1/ 4 turn open which provides 2 or 3 drops
per minute. If oilers should become blocked, Greasing
remove screw and clean orifice.
Use Harley-Davidson "Grease All" for greasing
requirements.

If the motorcycle is operated under extremely All chassis bearings requiring frequent applica-
dusty or dirty conditions, whether equipped with tions of grease are provided with grease gun
a rear chain oiler or not, additional lubrication fittings. Locations and recommended greasing
of the rear chain may be advisable from time to intervals are listed in the SERVICE AND MAIN-
time. Under these conditions proceed as follows: TENANCE CHART (Page 22).
Remove chain from motorcycle. Soak and wash it
thoroughly in a pan of kerosene. Remove chain Be careful about over-greasing wheel hubs. Ex-
from kerosene and hang it up for a time to allow cess grease working out of these bearings produces
kerosene to drain off. Immerse for a short time a messy condition and is likely to get onto brake
in a pan of grease heated to consistency of light linings and greatly reduce efficiency of brakes.
engine oil. If grease and facilities for heating are Using hand grease gun will help prevent over-
not at hand, substitute light engine oil. While im- greasing.
mersed, move chain around to be sure that hot
grease or oil works through all inside parts. After Remove and grease handlebar throttle grip spiral
removing from hot grease or oil, allow chain to with fresh grease every 5,000 miles, or when
drain and wipe all surplus grease or oil from operation of grip indicates lubrication is necessary.
surface of chain. Install chain on motorcycle. Remove and grease speedometer and tachometer
Inspect connecting link and spring clip closely drive cables every 5000 miles.
for bad condition. Replace if at all questionable.
Be sure spring clip is properly and securely On models having grease fitting on rear fork pivot
locked on pin ends. bearing housing, apply a very small quantity of
27
grease (one stroke of grease gun) to fitting at 2000 Hydra-Glide Fork
mile intervals with hand grease gun.
The Hydra-Glide fork requires very little main-
tenance or attention. It requires no greasing. If
CAUTION fork does not appear to be working properly, or
an appreciable amount of oil leakage should de-
Over-greasing will dam.age seals. velop, attention should be given by an authorized
Harley-Davidson dealer.
Pack the steering head bearings with fresh grease
at 50,000 miles.
Incorrect recoil action will result if there is in-
sufficient oil in either side of the fork. To check
Oil Applications
the amount, completely drain the oil and then
pour back into each side 6-1/2 to 7 ounces of
All control connections and parts as indicated in Harley-Davidson Hydraulic Fork Oil. Oil drained
the SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE CHART (Page from the fork may be used again provided it
22) should be oiled regularly, particularly after does not appear to be contaminated by water or
washing motorcycle or driving in wet weather. other foreign matter. Add only enough fresh oil
to provide the required amount.
Generator Bearings
If fork should at any time become submerged 1n
water, drain and refill immediately.
Generator commutator end roller bearing is packed
with grease and sealed, and normally does not
need additional grease. In an emergency, when Harley-Davidson Hydraulic
Fork Oil is not available, use the lightest auto-
Generator drive end ball bearing requires no mobile engine oil obtainable. Do not use shock-
attention as it is lubricated by the oil that cir- absorber fluid. If engine oil is used, however,
culates through the engine. drain and replace with Hydraulic Fork Oil as soon

28
as possible. The consistency of engine oil varies hex head cap screw at the top of each fork side,
with temperature changes, and stiff recoil action but has oil filler plugs at the rear of each fork
and a rough ride will result at lower temperatures. side which can be removed with a large screw-
Temperature changes have little effect on the rec- driver.
ommended oil.
Hydraulic Brake
To drain and refill fork, remove headlamp and
headlamp housing, then remove the hex head cap Every 1000 miles, check fluid level in master
screw at the top of each fork side. Remove the cylinder (8, figure 1) located just ahead of rear
drain plug at the lower end of each slider with a brake foot pedal. When removing filler plug, be
3/16 inch Allen wrench, and drain the oil into a sure that all dirt is removed from around filler
clean container. Add oil to container, if necessary, plug to prevent entrance into reservoir. Level
to make up the required amount. Replace the should be 1/ 4 inch from top of cover. Use only
drain plugs and add 6-1/2 to 7 ounces of oil HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID, which is approved
through the hole in the upper end of each fork for use in hydraulic brake systems.
tube. Then install the cap screw and tighten
securely.
Battery

Filling the fork using only a funnel is a rather

slow job because the filler openings in the fork It is the care given a battery, rather than time
are small and the filler channel tends to become and miles of service, which is most important
air locked. It is recommended that you see your in determining its life.
Harley-Davidson dealer when this service is re-
quired, as he has the necessary equipment to do Solution
the job cleanly and quickly.
Inspect the level of the battery solution at least
The adjustable trail Hydra-Glide Fork (special once a week during motorcycle operation, adding
equipment for sidecar service) does not have a pure distilled water as often as necessary to

29
keep the solution above the plates. If the motor- A higher battery charge rate may heat and damage
cycle is not used for an extended period of time, the battery. For this reason, do not allow the
check solution level before placing in service. motorcycle battery to be charged in the same
line with auto batteries. Hydrometer reading of
Remove battery cover and take out 6 screw end fully charged battery in good condition will be
filler plugs. With a hydrometer or syringe, add from 1.265 to 1.300. •
water to each cell to raise level of solution up to
triangle or circle at base of filler hole. Allowing battery to remain in a discharged con-
dition for any length of time shortens its life. It
NOTE is especially important that the battery be kept
well charged in below freezing weather. A low or
If battery is filled to a higher lever, some discharged battery is very likely to be frozen
of the solution will be forced out through and ruined.
the vent holes when battery is charging.
This will not only weaken the solution,
but also may damage parts near the battery. Keep the Motorcycle Clean
Avoid getting battery acid on clothing or
other fabrics. Keep battery clean and ter- Keeping the motorcycle clean on the outside as
minal connections tight. well as on the inside not only is a sign of good
maintenance, it is good maintenance. To aid you
in keeping your motorcycle clean see your Harley-
Charging Davidson dealer for the following:
Check solution in each cell with a battery hy-
drometer. If hydrometer reading is below 1.200, Harley-Davidson "Gunk"
remove battery and charge it from an outside
source. The charging current should be 12 volt Harley-Davidson "Gunk" will quickly and efficiently
direct current and charging rate should not be remove grease and oil from the metal parts of
allowed to go over 4 amperes. your motorcycle leaving a clear bright finish.

30
 IMPORTANT

Do not allow "Gunk" cleaner to come in

contact with seat or saddlebag material
since it may cause discoloration. Use mild
To obtain the longest possible life and the best
soap and water to clean these materials.
possible performance from your motorcycle it is
Harley-Davidson "Chrome Cleaner" necessary not only to keep it adequately serviced,
but also correctly adjusted to the tolerances to
Use Harley-Davidson "Chrome Cleaner" to make which it was manufactured. The following are the
adjustments and general maintenance facts per-
the chrome parts of your motorcycle glitter and
taining to your motorcycle.
sparkle.

Harley-Davidson "Polish and Cleaner"

Harley-Davidson "Polish and Cleaner" is made to ENGINE

clean and polish the enamel parts and to maintain
Spark Plugs
or restore these parts as close as possible to
their original luster.
Keep plugs clean and the gap between the elec-
trodes adjusted to .025 inch to .030 inch. Clean
Harley-Davidson ''Plastic Cleaner" with a sand blast cleaner.

Harley-Davidson Plastic Cleaner, Part No.

98680-64 is recommended for cleaning of vinyl Be sure your motorcycle is operating with the
plastic seats. Cleaner comes in 15 oz. spray correct heat range plug best suited to your type
can. To use, spray on and allow to set for a of riding. If in doubt see your Harley-Davidson
few seconds. Then wipe clean with a damp cloth dealer. It is recommended that new plugs are
or sponge. Full instructions appear on the can. installed every 5000 miles.
31
 Carburetor Adjustment (see figure 9)
A carburetor, once properly adjusted, requires
little, if any, readjustment. It should not be
necessary to adjust the needles more than a
fraction of a turn richer or leaner, to correct
mixture for a change in weather conditions. Do not
continually tamper with carburetor adjustments. If
engine does not start and run right, look for trouble
elsewhere before checking the carburetor.
We suggest that carburetor adjustments be made
3 by your Harley-Davidson dealer.
4 The fuel supply for low speed is completely
regulated by the low speed needle. The fuel
supply for high speed is regulated by a combi-
nation fixed jet and adjustable needle. The fixed
jet dominates the regulation of high speed fuel
supply. The high speed needle provides a means
of supplementing, to a limited degree, the fuel
supplied by the fixed jet, when it is found that
enriching the mixture slightly improves engine
performance.
Both the high speed needle (1) and low speed
needle (2) turn down (to right) to make mixture
1. High Speed Needle 3. Throttle Stop Screw leaner at the respective speeds for which they
2. Low Speed Needle 4. Throttle Lever adjust. Backing them out (to left) makes mixture
richer. Closed throttle idling speed of engine is
FIGURE 9. CARBURETOR adjusted with throttle stop screw (3).

32
A carburetor that is badly out of adjustment 6. Adjust throttle lever stop screw (3) as neces-
may be readjusted as follows: sary, to make engine idle at proper speed with
throttle fully closed. Turn screw to right to
1. Make sure carburetor control wire is adjusted make engine idle faster and to left to make
so throttle lever (4) fully closes and opens engine idle slower. Do not idle an engine at
with handle bar grip movement. the slowest possible speed because an ex-
tremely slow idling adjustment causes hard
2. Turn both the high speed needle (1) and the starting. Changing the idle speed with throttle
low speed needle (2) all the way in (to right). stop screw is likely to change the low speed
Do not close off either needle too tightly or mixture slightly. It will, therefore, be neces-
damage to needle and seat may result. sary to again check and correct low speed
needle adjustment by the same procedure fol-
3. Back up (to left) low speed needle (2) about lowed in making the initial adjustment.
1-1/2 turns. With needle in this position,
engine will start, but low speed mixture will
probably be too rich. 7. Check high speed adjustment, after low speed
4. Start the engine and after it has reached adjustments have been completed. Run motor-
operating temperature and the choke has been cycle on the road at various speeds between 20
moved to the open position, adjust throttle miles per hour and maximum speed. Have spark
control to idle speed. fully advanced. Best all around engine perform-
ance can usually be found with the high speed
5. Turn low speed needle (2) in (to right) slowly needle (1) set from 3/4 to 1-1/4 turns open.
until mixture becomes so lean that engine
misses and is inclined to stop; then, slowly
back needle out (to left) until engine hits Circuit Breaker (see figure 10)
regularly with engine running at idle speed.
Starting and all around carburetion will be Circuit breaker points should be checked for gap
better with low speed adjustment slightly rich, and contact surface condition initially at 500 and
rather than as lean as it can be made. 1000 miles, and thereafter every 2000 miles.

33
 1. Fiber Com Follower
2. Breaker Com
3. Condenser
4. Cam Timing Mork
13 5. Circuit Breaker Clomp Nut
6. Circuit Breaker Clomp
TIMING POSITION OF FLYWHEEL TIMING MARKS (ON LEFT SIDE OF ENGINE) 7. Circuit Breaker Head
8. Contact Points
9. Adjustable Point lock Screw
10 10 10. Timing Inspection Hole
11. Retard (5°) Timing
Mork on Fl}"".!'.heel
11 12 12. Advance (35°) Timing Mark
RETARD ADVANCE
FRONT PISTON 5o FRONT PISTON 35o on Flywheel
BEFORE TOP DEAD CENTER 8EFORE TOP OE AO CENTER
13. Eccentric Adjusting Screw

FIGURE 10. CIRCUIT BREAKER AND TIMING MARKS

34
Check the gap between the contact points (8) To check or reset ignition timing, proceed as
with a 0.022 inch gage (wire preferred). If it is follows:
not exactly 0.022 inch when the cam follower (1)
is on either of the highest points of cam (2), Remove spark plugs to permit engine to turn
adjustment is necessary. Incorrect point gap spac- easily; remove screw plug from timing inspection
ing affects ignition timing. To adjust the points, hole (10) in left side of crankcase. Then remove
loosen the lock screw (9) and move the eccentric front push rod cover so that opening and closing
adjusting screw (13) to provide a contact point of valve can be observed. Remove circuit breaker
gap of 0.022 inch. Retighten the lock screw (9) cover and set circuit breaker contact gap at
and again check the gap to make sure it remains exactly 0.022 inch as outlined under CIRCUIT
correct. Points in pitted or worn condition should BREAKER.
be replaced.
Turn engine in direction in which it runs until
Ignition Timing (see figure 10) front piston is on compression stroke (just after
front intake valve closes), and continue turning
Ignition timing is controlled by the circuit breaker. engine very slowly (less than 1/2 revolution)
Correct ignition timing and correct setting of the until retard timing mark (ii) on flywheel is
circuit breaker contact point gap is absolutely aligned in the inspection hole (10), as shown
necessary for proper engine operation and per- in figure 9.
formance.
Timing mark (4) on top edge of circuit breaker
The spark timing cam is advanced automatically cam (2) should now align with breaker arm fiber
as engine speed increases through action of the cam follower (1). If it does not, loosen circuit
flyweights in the circuit breaker base. This breaker clamp nut (5) and shift circuit breaker
insures correct spark timing to suit both starting head (7) clockwise (retard) or counterclockwise
and running requirements. (advance) to attain alignment.

35
Be sure cam is rotated counterclockwise on shaft will advance 30° automatically when engine is
as far as it will go when checking alignment. Re- operated above cranking speed.
tighten clamp nut (5) when alignment is obtained.
(This procedure will result in approximate timing
and engine can be operated in an emergency for Checking Timing With Strobe Timing Light
a short period until either of the two following (Advanced Position)
accurate timing procedures can be followed.)
A strobe flash timing light is used to view ad-
vanced timing mark (12) on flywheel through
Checking Timing With Circuit Tester accessory plastic view plug screwed into timing
(Retarded Position) inspection hole (10) while engine is running be-
tween 1500 and 2000 RPM. Timing light leads
Timing mark (4) on cam is the approximate point should be connected to front spark plug and
at which contacts (8) open and front cylinder igni- ground. Light will flash each time front cylinder
tion spark occurs. When the wide cam lobe opens spark occurs. Loosen circuit breaker clamp nut
the points, rear cylinder ignition spark occurs. just enough so circuit breaker head (7) can be
To accurately check and set timing, connect a shifted as light aimed into inspection hole (10)
circuit tester such as a light bulb across the stops timing mark (12) in center of hole, shown
contact points to determine the exact point of in figure 10. Timing will retard 30° automatically
contact opening. Loosen circuit breaker clamp when engine is stopped.
nut just enough to shift circuit breaker head (7)
so contacts will open exactly when flywheel
retarded timing mark (11) is aligned in center At regular intervals of 5000 miles or at least
of inspection hole (10), shown in figure 10. Tighten once a year, have your dealer check ignition
clamp nut and recheck timing by slowly rotating timing and, if necessary, readjust circuit breaker
flywheels in direction of engine operation. Con- setting to compensate for wear on circuit breaker
tacts should open exactly when retarded timing and timing gears that may have caused a slight
mark comes into center of timing hole. Timing change in timing.

36
Hydraulic Tappets TRANSMISSION
Tappets are self-adjusting, hydraulic type. They
automatically adjust length to compensate for
engine expansion and valve mechanism wear, and The need of attention to clutch and controls will
thus keep the valve mechanism free of lash when be indicated by the clutch slipping under load or
the engine is running. Tappet adjustment is re- dragging in released position. In either case, the
quired only in a new engine assembly and when first thing to be checked is the adjustment of
the engine is reassembled after repair. No further controls.
readjustment of tappets is required.

V/hen starting an engine which has been shut off Clutch Hand Control
even for a few minutes, the valve mechanism may
tend to be slightly noisy until the hydraulic units Normally the only attention the clutch hand control
completely refill with oil. If at any time, other requires is occasional readjustment of control coil
than for a short period immediately after engine adjusting sleeve (1, figure 11) and clutch lever rod
is started, valve mechanism becomes abnormally (13, figure 11) to maintain the correct amount of
noisy, it is an indication that one or more of the free movement for hand lever on handlebar and
hydraulic units may not be functioning properly. clutch actuating lever on transmission.
Always check the lubricating oil supply in the oil
tank first if the valve mechanism is noisy, since
normal circulation of oil through the engine is Should the need of major readjustment be indicated
necessary for proper operation of the hydraulic by such malfunctioning as hand lever becoming
units. If there is oil in the tank, the units may not extremely hard to operate; clutch control booster
be functioning properly due to contamination of the bellcrank failing to return to forward position
oil supply. Drive at moderate speed to the nearest when hand lever is released; slipping clutch; or
Harley-Davidson dealer for further attention. dragging clutch indicated by excessive gear clash

37
when shifting, the following adjustments should be push rod adjusting screw (3) in (clockwise)
made in the order indicated: to move end of lever to the rear; out (counter-
clockwise to move end of lever forward.
NOTE When correct position of lever has been
attained, tighten lock nut (2) and reinstall
While performing adjustments outlined in clutch cover.
steps 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, clutch control
booster bell crank (3, figure 11) must be 3. Readjust clutch lever rod (1, figure 12) so end
in full forward position. of clutch actuating lever has about 1/8 inch
free movement. Loosen control coil adjusting
sleeve lock nut (2, figure 11) and turn control
1. Loosen clutch lever rod lock nut (12, figure coil adjusting sleeve (1, figure 11) all the way
11) and adjust clutch lever rod (13, figure down. Loosen bell crank adjusting screw lock
11) far enough so clutch actuating lever on nut (9, figure 11) and adjust bell crank (3,
transmission has about 1/2 inch free move- figure 11) with bell crank adjusting screw
ment. Move end of lever on transmission (10, figure 11) so top end of bell crank moves
forward to a position where it becomes firm 1/8 inch forward of dead center position as
indicating that all slack in the actuating mech- shown in figure 11. To determine dead center,
anism has been taken up. Measure clearance move top end of bell crank by hand all the
between chain housing and clutch lever which way to rear and then slowly move it forward.
should be 1/ 4 inch. If necessary to readjust A point will be reached where bell crank will
to obtain this position of lever follow the in- seem to hang. This is the dead center position.
structions in the next step. When top end of bell crank is moved forward
beyond this point, booster spring exerts a
2. This step is required only if clutch actuating forward pull on bell crank. This movement
lever is not positioned correctly (see figure should be 1/8 inch over dead center. When
12). Remove chain housing cover, loosen push adjustment has been made, tighten screw
rod adjusting screw lock nut (2), and turn lock nut (9, figure 11).

38
 ----1/8 INCH FORWARD
1. Control Coil Adjusting Sleeve
~-- DEAD CENTER 2. Control Coil Adjusting Sleeve
1 Lock Nut
2 3. Clutch Control Booster Bell
Cronk
~10 4. Clutch Control Booster
3- Spring
~-11
5. Clutch Booster Spring
Tension Adjuster
12 13 14 6. Clutch Booster Spring
Tension Upper Adjuster Nut
- 7. Clutch Booster Spring
Tension LOHerAdjuster Nut
8. Gear Shifter Foot Lever
15---_j and Rubber Pedal
5-- 9. Bell Cronk Adjusting Screw
Lock Nut
6---- i-''----=:... 10. Bell Crank Adjusting Screw
17
11. Greose Gun Fittings (2)
1--- 12. Clutch Lever Rod Lock Nut
13. Clutch Lever Rod
a-- 14. Shifter Rod
15. Gear Shifter Lever
16. Foot Lever Clomping Slot
17. Foot Lever Positioning Mark

FIGURE 11. HAND CLUTCH - FOOT SHIFT CONTROLS (SPRING COVER REMOVED)

39
 Clutch Foot Control
4. Readjust clutch lever rod (13, figure 11) so
clutch actuating lever has 1/16 inch free
movement. Tighten clutch lever rod lock nut Proceed as follows to adjust foot control:
(12, figure 11).
1. With the foot peo:il in the fully engaged position
(toe down) the clutch lever should have 1/4
5. Turn adjusting sleeve (1) upward until end inch clearance with starter drive housing, and
of clutch hand lever has 1/2 inch free move- foot pedal rod end should have 1/8 free end
ment before releasing pressure is applied to clearance in lever slot.
clutch. When adjustment is attained, tighten
lock nut (2).
2. To adjust, remove the chain housing cover,
set the foot pedal in the fully engaged position
6. Loosen clutch booster spring tension upper (toe down), loosen the lock nut (2, figure 12)
adjusting nut (6) and turn nut upward as far as and readjust the push rod adjusting screw
it will go. Compress clutch hand lever fully. (3, figure 12) with a screwdriver so that the
Tighten clutch booster spring tension lower end of the lever is about 1/4 inch away from
adjusting nut (7) until, with hand removed starter housing. Be sure that clutch lever rod
from hand lever, it remains in compressed end has 1/8 inch free movement in lever slot
position. Now slowly loosen (unscrew} lower before clutch disengages.
adjusting nut (7) just enough so that hand lever
comes back (hand off lever) to fully extended Clutch
position. Tighten upper adjusting nut (6). This
adjustment must be made carefully for easy
operation of clutch hand lever. If, after readjusting the clutch controls, the clutch
still slips, increase the spring tension by tighten-
7. Check to determine that foot lever positioning ing (turn right) the three nuts (4, figure 12).
mark (17) is aligned with clamping slot (16) Tighten all three nuts one-half turn at a time
of foot lever (8). until clutch holds. Test after each half turn by

40
 WARNING

Whenever primary chain cover

is removed, first disconnect
battery cable from lower ter-
minal of starter solenoid to
prevent accidental starter op-
,,.,.., eration and possible injury.

1. Clutch Lever Rod 4. Spring Tension Nuts (3) 8. Shoe Support Brocket
2. Push Rod Adjusting 5. Front Chain Adjusting Shoe 9. Slotted Backplate
Screw Lock Nut 6. Outer Plate 10. Front Chain Oiler
3. Push Rod Adjusting Screw 7. Support Brocket Center Bolt A and B. Two Sets of Shoe Attaching Holes

FIGURE 12. FRONT CHAIN AND CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT

41
cranking the engine. Usually a clutch that holds Hand Shift {see figure 6}
without noticeable slippage when cranking the
engine also holds on the road. Do not increase The hand shift normally requires readjustment
spring tension any more than is actually required only to compensate for wear. To correct hand
to make clutch hold. shift lever position proceed as follows:

A new clutch is originally assembled and adjusted

so that the distance from the inner edge of the 1. Move the shifting lever to third position on
shoulder on the spring collar to the outer surface four-speed transmissions and to second posi-
of the outer disc is 31/32 inch. If compressed tion on three-speed transmissions.
so that this distance is less than 7/8 inch, the
clutch probably cannot be fully released.
2. Disconnect shifter rod from shifter lever;
If it is necessary to tighten the spring tension with slight backward and forward movement
beyond the limit indicated above, it will be neces- carefully "feel" the transmission lever into
sary to disassemble the clutch for inspection of exact position where the shifter spring plunger
the clutch discs. Some of the discs may be worn (inside transmission) seats fully in its retaining
and require replacement or they may be oil notch.
soaked and in need of washing and drying.

It is advisable, if the above condition exists, to 3. Turn the clevis in or out, carefully refit the
take your motorcycle to your Harley-Davidson shifter rod to the shifting lever without dis-
dealer. turbing the shifting lever's exact positioning.

42
 CHASSIS removed after locating and taking out the spring-
locked connecting link. The front chain is not
provided with such a connecting link. Therefore,
it is necessary to remove the engine sprocket,
Chains chain adjuster and clutch before the chain can
be taken off.
Inspect the adjustment of the rear chain at 1000
mile intervals and the front chain at 2000 mile To disassemble chain housing cover, for access
intervals and readjust them if necessary. Ad- to chain, remove rear pivot bolt from left foot-
justment of front chain can be checked through board and swing rear end of footboard down, away
inspection hole (1, figure 8) after removing cover. from chain housing cover. Remove 8 cover attaching
If chains are allowed to run too loose they will screws and remove cover.
cause the motorcycle to jerk when running at low
speed, and both the chains and sprockets will Front Chain Adjustment (see figure 12)
wear excessively.
Front chain tension is adjusted by means of a
shoe (5) which is raised or lowered underneath the
Adjust both front and rear chains so they have chain to tighten or loosen it. The shoe support
about 1/2 inch free movement up and down, bracket (8) moves up or down in slotted backplate
midway between sprockets. Do not adjust tighter, (9) after loosening center bolt (7) in backplate nut.
because running chains too tight is even more Adjust shoe support as necessary to obtain approxi-
harmful than running them too loose. As chains mately 1/2 inch up and down free movement in
stretch and wear in service, they will run tighter upper strand of chain, midway between sprockets
at one point on the sprockets than at another; and retighten bolt securely.
always check adjustment at the tightest point.
Shoe support bracket (8) and outer plate (6) have
Inspect chains occasionally for links in bad condi- two sets of shoe attaching holes (A and B) so that
tion. If any are found, make repairs or renew the entire assembly can be inverted to accommodate
chain. The rear chain can be taken apart and various sprocket sizes or chain lengths.
43
To change over, remove center bolt (7), remove
two shoe attaching capscrews from set of holes
(A), invert shoe and attach to alternate set of
holes (B) with capscrews. Invert support bracket
and outer plate and reattach with center bolt
engaged in backplate nut.

Rear Chain Adjustment (see figure 15)

Remove the rear axle nut (3) and lock washer,

and loosen brake sleeve nut (4) and brake anchor
stud nut (5). Loosen the lock nut (6) on wheel
adjusting screw (7) on both sides of motorcycle.
Turn adjusting screws as necessary to correctly FIGURE 13. REPAIRING DRIVE CHAIN
readjust the chain. Turn each screw an equal
number of turns in order to keep wheel in align-
ment. pins with a chain repair tool as shown. Then fit
Check correct alignment of the wheel to see that the necessary repair links. A duplex chain is used
the tire runs about midway between rear fork and for the front drive and a single width chain for
also that the rear sprocket runs centrally in the the rear. The chain tool furnished in the accessory
chain. When readjustment is completed, be sure tool kit is designed to take care of both.
to securely retighten the sleeve nut, axle nut,
Brakes
anchor stud nut and adjusting screw lock nuts in
order.
Front Brake Adjustment (see figure 14)
Chain Repair (see figure 13)
When the front wheel brake is properly adjusted
When necessary to repair a chain, remove the the hand lever (1) will move freely about one-
damaged links by pushing out the riveted link quarter of its full movement before the brake

44
 starts to take effect. If adjusted tighter the brake
may drag. To adjust brake, loosen lock nut (3)
on adjusting sleeve (2) and turn lower nut (4) in
toward the cable support tube to decrease the free
movement of the lever (1) and tighten brake. Turn
lower nut (4) away from the cable support tube
to increase the free movement of lever and loosen
brake. When free movement of the hand lever (1)
is about one-quarter its full movement tighten lock
nut (3) securely against the adjusting sleeve nut (4).

Rear Brake Adjustment

The rear wheel is equipped with a hydraulicbrake.

When the brake is properly adjusted, the foot
pedal will move freely approximately 1-1/4 inches
before the brake starts to take effect. Adjustment
of the brake shoes is required periodically to
compensate for lining wear. Pedal adjustment
may also be necessary due to pedal linkage wear.

Brake Shoe Adjustment (see figure 15)

1. Front Wheel Broke Hand Lever
2. Broke Adjusting Sleeve Remove chain guard rear mounting bolt and swing
3. Adjusting Sleeve Lock Nut rear end of guard upward as shown in illustration.
4. Adjusting Sleeve Nut
To adjust brake shoes, raise rear wheel so it
FIGURE 14. FRONT BRAKE ADJUSTMENT can be turned freely by hand. Two adjusting cam

45
 1 6 5 3 4
1 2 3 4 5
I . Front Brake Shoe 5. Brake Anchor
Adjusting Cam Nut Stud Nut
2. Rear Brake Shoe 6. Wheel Adjusting Screw
Adjusting Cam Nut Lock Nut (2) 1. Brake Pedal 4. Push Rod
3. Rear Axle Nut 7. Wheel Adjusting 2. Piston Push Rod Adjusting Nut
4. Brake Sleeve Nut Screw (2) 3. Lock Nut 5. Rubber Boot

FIGURE 15. REAR BRAKE SHOE FIGURE 16. REAR BRAKE PEDAL
AND CHAIN ADJUSTMENT ADJUSTMENT

46
square head nuts (1) and (2), one for each brake Wheels
shoe, are located on the outside of the brake Front and rear wheels can be detached when
backing plate. Using a square end wrench on front necessary to remove for wheel or tire service.
cam shoe nut, turn brake front shoe cam (1) When detached from drums, wheels are inter-
counterclockwise until lining contacts drum, caus-
changeable.
ing a noticeable drag when wheel is turned. Rock
wheel back and forth to center the brake shoes. Removing Rear Wheel {see figure 17}
Next, back off cam approximately 1/32 turn, until
wheel turns freely. Repeat this adjusting proce- Support rear end of motorcycle with rear wheel
dure on rear shoe cam nut (2), turning the rear
off the ground. Remove two rear screws from fen-
shoe cam clockwise until lining contacts drum der support, and raise end of fender. Remove the
and brake drags; rock wheel, and back off cam five socket screws that secure wheel to brake drum.
1/32 turn until wheel turns freely. The socket screw wrench can be inserted only at
the rear of axle so the wheel will have to be turned
to bring each screw to this position.
Brake Pedal Adjustment {see figure 16)
Remove axle nut (3) and axle nut lock (2). Remove
axle (1) and then remove spacer (5) from between
Pull rubber boot {5) away from end of master wheel hub and right axle clip. Apply rear brake
cylinder housing to expose piston push rod link. to hold brake drum securely while pulling wheel
Holding push rod link in center of opening, work away from brake drum. Wheel is then free to
brake pedal (1) back and forth by hand to deter- come out to rear with fender end raised as shown.
mine free play before push rod contacts piston in
master cylinder. Free play of push rod should NOTE
be approximately 1/16 inch. Adjustment is made
by loosening lock nut (3) and turning knurled nut Foot Brake Lever Locking Tool, Part No.
(4) to shorten or lengthen piston push rod (2) as 95875-58, can be used to lock brake. To
needed. Retighten lock nut (3) securely after de- use tool, raise right side foot board, slip
sired free play is obtained. tool over brake lever stop pin, depress

47
 brake pedal and rotate tool so that cam on
tool end locks brake pedal in depressed
position. Above tool is obtainable from
your dealer.

When reassembling wheel, reverse the removal

procedure, but securely tighten the five wheel
socket screws before tightening the axle nut (3).
To avoid any possibility of wheel working loose
and damaging clamping flange, it is important
that socket screws be pulled very tight. This
wrench is furnished in accessory tool kit. Ears
of axle nut lock (2) fit over brake sleeve nut
flats to prevent loosening (see figure 15).
Removing Front Wheel (see figure 18)

Remove the cotter pin (1), axle nut (2) and flat
washer (3). Remove the five wheel mounting socket
screws (5), loosen the two right slider cap nuts
(6) and remove axle (4). The front wheel is now
free to come out, leaving the brake drum in its
place over the brake shoes.
1. Rear Wheel Axle 3. Rear Wheel Axle Nut
2. Rear Wheel Axle Nut 4. Rear Wheel Mounting Screws When replacing the wheel, first securely tighten
lock Wosher 5. Rear Wheel A.xle Spacer
wheel mounting socket screws (5) and axle nut (2),
and then tighten the two right slider cap nuts (6).
FIGURE 17. REAR WHEEL REMOVAL This will insure correct alignment of fork sides.

48
Wheel Hubs

Excessive side play or radial (up and down) play

in the wheel hubs can be removed by the addition
of thrust bearing shims (side play) or the replace-
ment of roller bearings with oversize roller
bearings (radial play).

It is advisable to have any needed wheel hub repair

made at your Harley-Davidson dealer where roller
bearings in assorted sizes and any other parts
required are at hand. Refitting should be done by 3 2
a mechanic thoroughly familiar with this service
operation because care must be exercised to
avoid fits that are too tight.

Tires

Care should be taken to keep tires properly in-

flated. See Tire Data, Page 3, for correct tire
inflation pressures. Do not over-inflate tires.
The front tire of a solo motorcycle normally
wears unevenly and becomes peaked to some I . Cotter Pin 5. Wheel Mounting
extent. It is recommended, with a solo motor- 2. Axle Nut Screws
cycle particularly, that wheels and tires be trans- 3. Flot Washer 6. SI ider Cap Nuts
posed at intervals of approximately 5,000 miles. 4. Front Axle 7. Slider Cap
This will stabilize high speed operation and also
equalize wear. FIGURE 18. FRONT WHEEL REMOVAL

49
 Saddle Spring Post (see figure 19)

After raising the saddle, remove saddle post

clamp nut (5), which is located underneath frame
at bottom end of post tube. The post assembly can
then be pulled out. When the post assembly is
inserted back into the frame tube see that the
flat side, machined on the post rod nut (4),
registers in flat side of the hole in the bottom
5 of the tube.

The cushion spring assembly (three lower springs)

of a standard saddle post is adjusted for the
average weight rider to give maximum riding
comfort. Adjustment can be changed for lighter
1. Spring Tension 3. Rod Nut Lock Nut
or heavier than average rider, and different
Adjusting Nut 4. Rod Nut springs can be obtained, if desired, from your
2. Adjusting Nut Lock Nut 5. Post Clomp Nut
dealer.

FIGURE 19. SADDLE SPRING POST

50
 ELECTRICAL No attempt should be made to repair a defective
sealed beam unit. When the seal is broken the
reflector tarnishes and poor light and road visibility
Headlamp result.

The headlamp is of the sealed beam type. When Headlamp Adjustment (see figure 20)
replacement is required use only the prescribed
sealed unit available from your Harley-Davidson The headlamp beam must be adjusted for height
dealer. and direction. To get the greatest efficiency from
the headlamp and to meet the requirements of the
Replacing Headlamp Sealed Beam Unit (see figure law make the following adjustment in a darkened
20) room or at night.

If either filament burns out or if the lens breaks, 1. Have the motorcycle standing on a level sur-
the entire sealed beam unit must be discarded and face with tires correctly inflated about 25 feet
a new unit installed. away from, and headed toward, a wall or screen
upon which a horizontal line has been drawn at
To install a new unit loosen door screw (1) enough exactly the same height as the headlamp center.
to remove headlamp door (2). Remove the three The motorcycle must be resting on both wheels
retaining ring screws (5). Unhook spring from hole and the front wheel must be in straight align-
(3) in retaining ring (4) and remove retaining ring. ment.
The sealed beam unit (6) is now free from the
headlamp body, and the connector block (7) can now NOTE
be removed from the unit by pulling connector
block from the unit's prongs. To properly adjust the headlamp it will be
necessary to have someone of about the
Install the new unit by reversing above operations. same weight as the rider seated on the
Make sure prongs on unit are clean to assure good motorcycle because the weight of the rider
contact with connector block. will compress the fork slightly.

51
 1. Door Screw
2. Headlamp Door
3. Spring Hole
4. Reta in ing Ring
5. Retaining Ring
Screws
6. Sealed Beam Unit
7. Connector Block
8. Vertical Adjustment
Screw
9. Horizontal Adjustment
Screw

FIGURE 20. REPLACING THE SEALED-BEAM UNIT

52
 2. Turn on light switch, set handlebar toggle electrical system trouble be experienced that might
switch in BRIGHT position, and check light be traceable to the regulator, motorcycle should be
beam for height and direction. The top of taken to your Harley-Davidson dealer who has the
the main beam of light should register on the necessary electrical testing equipment to give re-
wall or screen even with, but no higher than, quired attention.
the horizontal line mentioned above.

3. If beam requires adjustment, remove headlamp Inspecting or Replacing Generator Brushes

door. The lamp can be tilted up or down to
aim it in relation to the horizontal line by To inspect generator commutator and brushes,
turning vertical adjustment screw (8) in or out. remove inspection cover band. Commutator should
The lamp can be aimed to the right or left in appear smooth and clean. Replace brushes when
relation to the front wheel by turning the hori- longest side of brush measures 1/2 inch or less.
zontal adjustment screw (9) in or out. Excessive brush wear will be indicated if brush
lead wire enters brush holder slot close to commu-
tator. Generator should be removed from engine
Generator Charging Rate and Regulator and disassembled to replace brushes or recondition
commutator. It is recommended that generator
The generator itself has no adjustment for control maintenance be performed by your Harley-Davidson
of charging rate. This is controlled by the regulator. dealer.
The regulator functions to increase charging rate
when battery is low or lamps are lighted, and to Bulb Chart
decrease charging rate when no lamps are lighted
and when battery is up. The regulator requires no The bulb chart, page 56, gives thelocationand bulb
interval attention. The cutout relay is combined requirements for your Harley-Davidson motor-
with the regulator in a single unit. Should any cycle.

53
 ..
I
49 17_.......c >-
' • 26~
N
/
...
!l ~'
- ♦

37
\ G 18) 11Yl
7
(RI 14
45 :o
18)
"'--:+
I
I ola ., og 2 ;;;<>-+~:---' !. l
KEY TO COLORCODE
38/ R 8 43 ® f!ED
;:; > :-~o :o I )
" p i ~ G GREEN
181 f----'' 8 BLACK
48 YELLOW
IG)
WHITE
8 \ RED WITH 8LAC1(TRACER
BLACK WITHREDTRACER
REDWITHYELLOWTRACER

0
,,....,
I
32
,./"'t!!J ~_;33
L
..... I
~ ,..I>------' D
@-19
-18
IS
□ --® - K
:t
FIGURE 21. WIRING DIAGRAM

54
 KEY FOR WIRING DIAGRAM

A. Conduit (four wire) - Red, 1. Switch terminal - Switch supply 26. Ignition circuit breaker
green, black and yellow 2. Switch terminal - Headlamp 27. stop lamp switch
B. Conduit (one wire) - Green 3. Switch terminal - Not used 28. Generator signal light
c. Conduit (four wire) - Red, with standard wiring 29. Terminal - Not used with
green, yellow and black 4. Switch terminal - Tall lamp standard wiring
D. Left handlebar (loose wires) - 5. Switch terminal - Ignition coil 30. Terminal - Not used with
Red with black tracer, black 6. Ignition - Light switch - See standard wiring
wit~ rea tracer, red with terminals 1 through 5 31. Terminal
yellow tracer, 2 black wires 7. Junction terminal 32. Generator "F" terminal
E. Right handlebar (loose wires) - 8. Junction terminal 33. Generator "A" terminal
2 black wires 9. Terminal 34. Starter solenoid
F. Conduit (two wire) - 2 red 10. Terminal 35. Starter motor
wires 11. Terminal - Not used with 36. Ignition Coil
G. Conduit (one wire) - Yellow standard wiring 37. Terminal plate
H. Conduit (three wire) - Black, 12. Terminal - Not used with 38. Terminal box - See terminals
white and yellow standard wiring 39 through 43
J. Conduit (two wire) - Red and 13. Regulator 39. Terminal
green 14. Tail and stop lamp 40. Terminal
K. Conduit (one wire) - Red 15. Battery positive terminal 41. Terminal
L. Conduit (two wire) - Green 16. Battery negative terminal 42. Terminal
and red 17. OU pressure signal switch 43. Terminal
M. Conduit (one wire) - Black 18. Handlebar headlamp switch 44. Speedometer light
N. Conduit (one wire) - Black 19. Horn switch 45. Terminal plate top mounting
0. Conduit (one wire) - Black 20. Terminal - Not used with screw (ground)
P. Conduit (two wires) - 2 black standard wiring 46. Headlamp
wires 21. Terminal 47. Neutral indicator light
22. Terminal 48. Neutral switch
23. Terminal - Not used with 49. starter button
standard wiring 50. Oil signal light
24. Terminal 51. Horn
25. Terminal

55
 BULB CHART
,
Number of Bulbs Candle Power Harley-Davidson
Lamp Description Required or Wattage Part Number

HEADLAMP 1 67717-64

Hi Beam 50 Watts
Low Beam 45 Watts

I TAIL AND STOP LAMP 1 68165-64

Tail Lamp 4C.P.

stop I.::imp 32C.P.

INSTRUMENT PANEL

Neutral Indicator Light 1 2C.P. 68462-64

Generator Signal Light 1 2C.P. 68462-64
Oil Pressure Signal Light 1 2C.P. 68462-64
Speedometer Light 1 1. 5C. P. 71090-64
I

ACCESSORIES

Spot Lamp Sealed Beam Unit 1 30 Watts 68726-64

Spot Lamp Bulb 1 32C.P. 68715-64
Parking Lamps - 3C.P. 68166-64
Turn Indicator Lamps 4 32C. P. 68572-64A
Turn Indicator Pilot Lamps 2 1.5C.P. 71090-64
I ._ -' •

56
 Page Page

Air Cleaner . • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 24 Maintenance . • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 31

Battery • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 29 New Motorcycle Service • • • • • • • • • • • 20
Brake Adjustment • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 44 Oil Filter • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 24
Bulb Chart • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 56 Operating Tips. • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 16
Carburetor • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 32 Regular Service Intervals . • • • • • • • • • • 21
Chain Adjustment. • • • • • • • • • • • • • 25 Riding • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 13
Chain Lubrication • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 25 Rules of the Road • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 19
Circuit Breaker and Ignition Timing • • • • 33 Saddle Spring Post • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 50
Cleaning. • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 30 Servicing. '• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 20
Clutch. • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 40 Service Chart • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 22
Controls- • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 7 Spark Plugs • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 31
Electrical . • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 51 Specifications • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 2
Engine Lubrication ......... • • • • • 23 starting and Stopping Instructions. • • • • • • 13
First 500 Miles (Break-in Period) . • • • • • 13 Tappets • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 37
Gasoline Strainer . • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 25 Tires. • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 49
Generator. • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 53 Transmission Adjustment. • • • • • • • • • • 37
Greasing and Oil Applications • • • • • • • • 27 Transmission Lubrication • • • • • • • • • • 25
Headlamp . • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 51 Wheels. • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
• 47
Hydraulic Brake • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 29 Winter Lubrication • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 24
Locating Operating Troubles. • • • • • • • • 16 Wiring Diagram . • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 54