INSTALLATION MANUAL

GLOBAL HEADQUARTERS MANUFACTURING FACILITY

Unit 4, 5 Henry Street, 17 Cadbury Road,
Loganholme, Queensland 4129 Onekawa, Napier 4110
Australia New Zealand [email protected]
P: +61 1300 671 345 P: +64 6 843 6276 www.scottsdalesteelframes.com

1 Manuals 02-PDF Release Documents\Manuals - Construction\SCS\Installation Manual

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 Index

Chapter 1 Tools & Equipment 3

Chapter 2 Handling & Storage 5
Chapter 3 Standing & Connecting Walls 7
Chapter 4 Ceiling 13
Chapter 5 Ceiling Supports 19
Chapter 6 Roof Panel 23
Chapter 6a Soffits & Fascia 31
Chapter 7 Roof Trusses 35
Chapter 8 Hybrid Roof 45
Chapter 9 Floors 49
Chapter 10 Miscellaneous 55
Chapter 11 Reading ScotLayout 59
Glossary Steel Framing Terminology 65

General Notes & Information

It is important to develop and maintain a safety plan before commencing any construction. This should include, but is not limited to, all safety
equipment which may be required.

Scottsdale Construction Systems has developed this installation manual to assist first time or novice steel frame users with a reference guide on
how to install the ScotPanel and ScotTruss systems.
It is important that all work carried out while using this guide meets local building authority regulations and safety plans.

This Installation manual illustrates simple and commonly accepted building practices, as used by existing customers around the world. It is
intended that processes shown within this manual are a guide only, and the installer should use discretion when circumstances do not match the
criteria laid out within portrayed examples.

Disclaimer
Scottsdale Construction Systems Ltd (SCS) makes no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, nor accepts any liability
whatsoever about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability ,compliance or lawfulness of , including but not limited to, any Design work,
Technical drawings, Engineering Data or any information compiled by SCS. This includes any design work supplied to, or done on a customer's
behalf.

It is the Customer's responsibility to ensure the design is accurate and is in accordance with the building plans and that the final design meets
local building codes, and any other statutory requirements. Similarly, it is the Customer’s responsibility to ensure all Technical or Engineering
data supplied by SCS meets local statutory requirements.

In no event will SCS be liable for any loss or damage, including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, or any loss or damage
whatsoever arising from any errors or omissions, but any dispute shall be construed under the laws of New Zealand whose Courts shall have
exclusive jurisdiction in respect thereof.

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 Chapter 1 - Tools & Equipment

Power Tools

Rotary Hammer Drill

Cordless Drills with Torque Settings
Cordless Impact Driver
Right Angled Drill
Concrete Nailer
Power Drill for Flooring

Tool Accessories

7.9mm (5/16”) Hexagonal Drivers

Short Driver 50mm (2”)
Long Driver 150mm (6”)
Twin Head Magnetic Phillips No: 2 Short Driver
Twin Head Magnetic Phillips No: 2 Long Driver
Double Ended Drill Bit 4.9mm
10 /12mm Tungsten Carbide Concrete Drill Bits
Cone Drill 6mm - 30mm
Hammer
Square
Step Ladder

Hand Tools

Double Action Tin Snips (left and right hand)

1.8m Long Spirit Level
Marker Pen (fine tip)
String Line
Adjustable C Clamps
Tape Measure
Magnetic Grab Stick
Socket Set
Socket Set for hold downs
Hand Riveter
Stanley Knife
Pinch Bar/Crow Bar

Personal Protective Equipment

Personal Protective Equipment

Please refer to the Health and Safety Regulations of the area
where construction is being carried out

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Fasteners

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 Chapter 2 - Handling & Storage

On Site Handling

Lifting, loading and transportation of steel frames should be Crane

accomplished with sufficient care to prevent damage. Frames must be
fully supported in either horizontal or vertical planes when being
transported to prevent buckling or crushing. Care must also be taken
when tying down and lifting wall frames.
When a crane is used to unload frames, suitable lifting methods are
required to prevent damage at the lifting points.
Sling trusses from the chord and web points. Sling wall frames from top
plate and stud connections. Slings should be located at equal distances
from the centre lines of trusses and walls. Approximately one third to
one half the length apart. The angle between the sling legs should be 60
degrees or less and where truss spans are greater than 9000mm, a
spreader bar or strong back should be used.

Crane

60˚
Slings

9000

All frames should be inspected on arrival to site for damage. Any

damaged parts must be reported immediately to the supplier so they
can be rectified. Any site repairs without prior approval from the
suppliers may affect the structural integrity. Crane

Spreader Bar
Slings

Over 9000

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Stacking Steel Wall Frames and Trusses

Steel wall frames and trusses and other associated ancillaries should be
kept off the ground. This can be achieved by stacking the frames on
blocks, spacing them 1000mm—1500mm apart ensuring the blocks are
positioned where studs join the perimeter members.

1000mm to 1500mm apart

Frames need to be stacked neatly to prevent buckling.

A good point to remember is to stack frames on a flat surface with the
orientation hole in the bottom plate on the left hand side of the stack.
This will allow for easy identification and frame orientation when
standing frames which will be discussed later on in this manual.

Incorrect stacking method

Correct way to stack frames

Orientation Hole

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 Chapter 3 - Standing & Connecting Walls

Frame Labels and Orientation

All wall frames come with an ORIENTATION HOLE. This is indicated by a

SERVICE HOLE punched into the Bottom Plate 100mm from one end. Orientation Hole
This is displayed on ScotLayout by a dot at one end of the frame.
The frame label is usually written on the bottom plate near the
orientation hole, but this may differ between fabricators.

Attaching Strap Bracing

If Strap Bracing is not attached by the frame fabricator then it’s best to
attach before standing the frames.
Locate the positions on the frame where strap bracing is required.
Make sure the frame is square before attaching the strapping.
Ensure the correct number of screws are used at each end of each
strap. Bottom Plate Strap Bracing Top Plate Strap Bracing
Fixing as Per Layout Fixing as per Layout

Tensioners should be left loose until the frames are fixed down. They
can then be tightened to help plumb the frame.
Hold Down Bolts with “L” brackets should be used at each END stud of
all strap braces or where specified on erection layouts.

“L” Bracket Brace Strap Brace Tensioner

Hold Down

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Where to Start—Slab Markout

Before standing the first frames, it is a good idea to use a chalk line and
mark two lines at right angles to each other across the centre of the
foundation then measure from these lines the required distance to
position the exterior walls. This is done to ensure the framing will be
laid out square on the foundation and wont be influenced by the edge
of the foundation which could have small variations (eg. the concrete
edge could have a curve in it)

Wall Frames should be positioned around the foundation to minimise

the distance frames are carried prior to standing.
Consult the supplied frame layout when the frames are delivered so
this can be done with the delivery crane or similar.
Position frames around the outside of the foundation in the correct
orientation to assist with the speed of erection.

Lay frames around the foundation prior to standing walls

Standing Frames

When standing frames to an upright position it’s best to use two

people.

Pick the frame up at each end and rotate so the orientation hole is at
the bottom. Nogs should also have the open side of the profile facing
down.
Two people can also lay the frame on the ground and pick up the top
plate and lift only the top plate up and walk inwards until the frame is
vertical. Long frames need special care and should be supported in the
centre and around openings otherwise the top/bottom plate could
bend. Carrying the frame vertically can alleviate this problem.

Refer to the wall layout to identify the location of the orientation hole.

DPC should be used between all bottom plates and concrete surfaces.
Refer to the following page for further details.

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Attaching DPC

DPC can be attached to the bottom of the Wall Frames prior to

standing.
DPC should be placed under the bottom plate of steel framing walls to
prevent a chemical reaction between cement and the steel galvanising.
Because of this DPC should be slightly wider than the framing it is
protecting.

The image to the right shows DPC attached to the bottom plate with
wafer head Tek screws. Ensure the screw is located in the centre of the
web. The screw will fit neatly between the steel web and the concrete.
Screw spacing should only be placed where they are required to hold
the DPC securely until the frames are standing. Place screws where required to hold DPC securely

DPC can also be glued onto the steel bottom plate. Most spray on
adhesives will adhere to steel. Follow the instruction on the can to
achieve results specific to adhesive type.
Some DPC manufacturers produce a product that has an adhesive
backing already applied so it can stick to the steel.

Gluing DPC to the Bottom Plate

DPC can also be nailed directly to the concrete with a powder actuated
fastener after the slab has been marked out with a chalk line.

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Standing Walls

When standing the walls you should always begin in a corner using two
frames. This allows one wall to hold up another.
Ensure that you do not close in the exterior walls until all of the interior
walls are in place.
Closing in each room as you move across the floor will provide a stable
structure to work away from.

Connecting Frames

When standing frames, one screw in the top and one screw at the
bottom will be sufficient until all frames are standing.

Connecting frames should be done at maximum of 1350mm spacing’s

up the connecting studs.
Use two screws at each horizontal member behind the connecting stud.

Screws can be added from either side if it is difficult to get the screws in
from one particular side.

Once the frames are connected, ensure they are positioned on the floor
correctly, then fix down to the floor with the required method.

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Temporary Bracing

Frames should be braced laterally to prevent the frame falling over.

“C” section lengths can be used to achieve this by adding small cuts to
the flanges and bending them to suit before fixing them to the
foundation.

Temporary bracing should be applied to any walls that are not

supported by internal walls.

Ensure the brace angle is between 40˚and 60.̊

40-60˚

Squaring and Straightening

Wall framing should be stood true and plumb, and in most cases at
right angles to one another.

To ensure long walls are straight, a string line can be used to ensure the
walls are straight. Place a block between the string and the framing at
each end and measure at points along the frame to check for
straightness. This should be done at the bottom plate prior to fixing
down to the floor, and to the top plate when adding temporary bracing
before the roof structure is added.

Hold Downs

Fixings to hold the frame down come in different forms. Some of these
include a Concrete Nail and Washer, Expansion Bolt and Washer,
Expansion Bolt and “L” Bracket, Concrete Screw and Washer, and
Concrete Screw and “L” Bracket.

Hold down bolts are typically required at either side of window and
door openings. Washer or “L” Bracket requirements are specific to each
job.
Refer to the framing layout for the hold down type to be used.
Concrete nail and washer are typically used for Internal walls, and in
some cases exterior walls (depends upon wind zone and uplift) and the
spacing’s should be set by your engineer.

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Plumb and Level Frames
As you are erecting frames it is best practice to apply some “C”
section lumber for bracing the framing and to keep it square.

Once frames are fixed down, the strap bracing can be tensioned to
achieve plumb frames.
Perpendicular temporary bracing can also be applied to ensure the
centre of walls are plumb. (refer to next page)

If the flooring has bumps or waves in it, it is best to pack the low
spots to ensure the top and bottom plates are level along the length
of the frame. This can be done by slightly lifting the frame in the
hollow and putting a packing material under the bottom plate (Horse
Shoe Shim or DPC is very common) until it is level.

Cutting Doorways
In most cases when the bottom plate is required to be cut out for a
doorway or a window at floor level, a notch can be provided by the
software detailer to allow the plate to be cut out easily.
The installer will need to cut with some hand snips the flange of the
bottom plate approximately 30mm from the opening stud. Once cut,
the piece remaining on the frame should be bent around the stud
and fixed in place with at least one wafer head screw.

If a notch has not been provided, the same result can be achieved
with some more work.
Cut the four flanges on a 45degree angle back towards the bottom of
the opening stud. Bend these triangle pieces around the stud and
screw off. The point can be cut off these triangles to make this safer.
Once this is done cut the centre of the plate being removed any way
you feel like. Then bend the piece to be removed up and down until
it breaks off.

Door ways can also be cut out with an angle grinder. If you choose
this method, spray on galvanising paint should be applied to any cut
made with the grinder to protect the steel from corrosion.

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 Chapter 4 - Ceilings

After bracing has been applied, the ceiling panels can be placed into Special Nogs (Horizontal) Rafter/Joist Direction
position starting at any corner of the structure.

When erecting ceiling panels, the first thing to do is become familiar

with the ScotLayout supplied by the manufacturer.

There are no orientation holes in ceiling panels so the only way to

recognize the frame direction is by the arrow direction of the rafter/
joist or by any special nogs that have been put into the frame as per
example C.42 in the adjacent image.

After reading the ScotLayout, place the panels around the building in
the area in which they are to be located.

Brace outer walls

Before any ceiling panels can be laid on top of the wall framing, the
whole building needs to be braced to hold the walls straight and plumb.
This is to prevent the walls from moving when ceiling panels are moved
into their final position.
Refer to the previous chapter for details how to do this.

Ceiling frame flush with outer wall

When positioning the ceiling panels, the outer perimeter of the ceiling
panel needs to be flush with the outer edge of the wall frame.
At this time the ceiling frame should only be screwed down with
minimal screws to minimise movement when working on top of the
ceiling panels. 2 Screws in each corner and one at midpoint between
each corner is recommended.

Once this has been accomplished, move onto the next panel, moving
around the outer perimeter of the building until you meet up to the
first ceiling panel.
If the ceiling panel is supported by trusses or a support frame,
temporary props need to be used until the trusses are installed.
Temporary props are also used when working with a B300’s or B400’s. Temporary Props

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 Installation Manual

Ceiling Beams
Forming B300 gap
When installing ceiling beams a gap will need to be created between
the ceiling panels. To achieve this, place material of similar thickness to
the ceiling beam plate between the two ceiling panels and clamp or
temporarily screw.
After the gap has been formed, secure the ceiling frames by screwing
around the perimeter elements. Props are placed mid span so the ceil-
ing beam has something to rest on while also supporting the ceilings
and keeping workers safe. Lengths of “C” section material can also be
used to prevent plate from protruding past the edge of the ceiling when
inserted.
Ceiling Frame
Note: Ceiling beams can come in a variety of depths.

Scotsteel Design Software can allow for panel growth by making the
panels slightly smaller than required to ensure they fit on site. As a
result of this, gaps can start accumulating in the ceiling panels. These
can be easily hidden when two ceilings join on top of a wall. If you find
the gaps are getting excessive contact the designer to modify the “Edge
Adjust” dimension for future projects.
10mm gap joined on top of wall

10mm gap

If the accumulated gap cannot be hidden on top of a wall (as per the
image on the right) then the gap needs to be filled with a packer and
screwed off.

Packed 10mm

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Fixing points for the outer perimeter of ceiling panels should be fixed by
one Tek screw at 600mm spacing's or at each rafter.

Refer to the ceiling layout for additional fixings.

Fixing points at outer perimeter of

ceiling frames each side of rafter

Internal walls fixing to ceiling

Ceiling fixing points to internal walls are fixed by screwing one Tek
screw in each rafter that crosses the internal wall as shown here.

Refer to the ceiling layout for additional fixings.

X Strap Bracing

At this point, strap bracing (if required) can be fixed to the ceiling pan-
els and tensioned. This is best done before the support frames are in-
stalled.

Refer to the ceiling layout for bracing locations and fixings.

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 Installation Manual

Constructing a Ceiling Beam

A Ceiling Beam is a plate of steel that is 300-500mm deep x the plate

thickness the designer has specified eg: B300 x 1mm.
The 1mm is the gauge. 300 is the depth of the plate being used.
B400 and B500 is listed the same way, the difference being the depth of
the plate is 400mm and 500mm deep. B300
Throughout this chapter a B300 is being used as the example.
Before fabricating a B300 refer to the ScotLayout as to where the B300
beams are located. In the adjacent image there are two B300 beams
located between ceilings 42, 43, 44.
To calculate the length of the beams turn to the page in ScotLayout that
has the corresponding measurements.

Find the area in ScotLayout where the B300’s are shown and look for
the measurement in the layout where the B300 is spanning. In this
example the B300 is 6200mm plus the thickness of the walls. 6380mm
Example: 6200 + 90 + 90 = 6380mm. This is the overall length of the
B300.
Some layouts will have this length specified for you.

300mm

Cut the specified plate to the correct length then cut 2 x “C” Section’s
of the same length. Clamp the 2 x “C” Section’s sandwiching the plate
between them and fixing 2 x 10g-16x16 screws close to the flange edge
of each “C” Section. Start 50mm from one end and work towards the
other end fixing the Tek screws every 150mm, finishing 50mm from the
end. This will form the top chord of the B300.

150mm spacing's

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 Installation Manual

Before installing a B300, place two short pieces of material at each end B300 slot
of where the B300 will be located underneath the ceiling panels. This
will hold the B300 flush to the bottom of the ceiling ready to be
screwed.

C-90 material

Place the B300 in the slot formed between the two ceiling panels as
described in the previous chapter.
B300

Secure in place with 2 x 10g-16x16 screws every 150mm through the

ceiling panels sandwiching the B300.
150mm

The top chord restraint of the B300 can now be fixed in place at the
spacing’s specified on the layout. Cut a 1m length of strap bracing and
place half of the strap brace either side and perpendicular to the top
chord. Fix the strap to the top chord with the number of 10g-16x16
screws specified on the layout.

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Ensure the B300 is perpendicular to the ground. Screw each end of the
strap to a ceiling panel and Top Chord with minimum 2 x 10g-16x16
screws each end.

Ensure the strap is taut on each side.

Once this has been done the B300 can be shaped to fit within the roof if
required.

There are several styles to form the top chord of a B300 to cater for
different strength requirements. The supplied ScotLayout will have
information relating to the specific B300 top chord style to be formed.

The adjacent illustration is a B300 as explained throughout this chapter.

Standard Plate Beam

Reinforced Plate Beams

BC (bottom chord) screwed through ceiling panels at 150mm centres.

TP (top plate) connection “C” section material lengths screwed at
150mm centres.
Reinforcing member “C” section material lengths screwed at 150mm
centres.
Strap material 25-30mm wide x 0.75 -1.15mm thick metal strapping.

Note: Chord reinforcements must be continuous and must not be

joined. They are to be attached with 10g-16x16 tek screws. 1 x “C” section turned down to
go over the two top chords

2 x “C” section - one turned down to go over

the two top chords, the other is back to back

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 Chapter 5 - Ceiling Supports

Before installing any Support Frames, the installer must read and
understand the ScotLayout. Turn to the Support Frame page and take
note of the Orientation Hole and Support Frame number.

Roof Panels require support frames sitting directly under them. They
need to be positioned or screwed in place prior to erecting the roof
panels. Typically ridge or apex supports would be installed first.

In the example: Support S20 position is 1770mm from the outside of

the structure. Mark S20’s position with a marker pen on the ceiling
panel prior to fixing into position. (a chalk line can be used to provide a
straight line between each end measurement) Use the minimum
amount of screws at first, in case the support frame requires further
adjustment. Work on a specific area of the building, in this case we Orientation Hole
need S16, S17, S19, & S20 in position before R30 and R31 can be
installed. Once the roof looks correct, begin the screw-off process
including attaching the twist ties.

Orientation hole located

in bottom cord
The orientation hole is always located in the bottom chord 100mm
from the end. This should be identified prior to positioning the support
frame.

If the Support Frame needs to be plated, the screws must be spaced

every 150mm apart around the perimeter of the plate. Supports should
be plated by the manufacturer before delivery. If this has not been 150mm
done apply the plate to the Support Frame before installation using Tek
screws. Rivets can be substituted for 10g-16x16 screws if required.

Rivets or Tek screws every

150mm around the
perimeter of the plate

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When Support Frames are required to provide support for Ceiling
Frames that tek screws are not suitable for, twisted straps called “Twist
Tie’s” can be used to provide this support. Most hardware stores stock
this bracket or something very similar.

Typically two 10g-16x16 screws are suitable as per the picture below.

Fixing

To attach a ceiling to the underside of a Support Frame, screw Tek

screws through the ceiling rafter that crosses the Support Frame
bottom chord prior to installing the twist ties as per the adjacent Ceiling Rafter
images.
Alternately, the screws can be screwed into the ceiling through the
support frame from above.

Recommended screws should be used on each crossing ceiling member.

Fixing points

If specified on the ceiling layout, fix a twist tie with 10g-16x16 screws to
every second ceiling rafter. Good practice would be to alternate the
brackets on either side of the Support Frame.

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Support Frames can sometimes sit directly on top of the wall plate at
the same level as the surrounding Ceiling Panels. This provides support
for the ceiling as well as providing extra strength for the bottom chord
of the Support Frame.
The adjacent ScotLayout image shows what a typical Ceiling Panel
Layout looks like when a Support Frame is at the same level as the
Ceilings.

Space for Support Frame between the Ceiling Panels

Support Frame

To achieve this configuration, place the Support Frame next to the

Ceiling Panel so the Support Frame sits directly on the top plate. Then Ceiling Panels
fix the ceiling with 2/10g-16x16 screws at centres specified on the
layout into the Support Frame, the ceiling bottom chord and diagonals
where possible. Place the next Ceiling Frame in position next to the
Support Frame and secure in place with Tek screws as per the previous
Ceiling Panel.

Wall Top Plate

The image on the right shows a completed Support Frame utilising

adjacent Ceiling Panels to provide reinforcement for the Support Frame
bottom chord.

Consult the layout for additional support frame hold downs.

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At times the engineering will require a Support Frame to have a single
or a double reinforced top chord. This is where a piece of C-90 material
(of the same gauge as the Support Frame) is screwed to both sides of
the Support Frame lattice top chord with Tek screws. This is shown in
the adjacent image.

C-90 material fixed to form a double reinforced

top chord

C-90 material fixed to side of Support Frame

Chord reinforcements should be fixed at every diagonal member as

close to the edge of the reinforcing member as possible. Another Tek
screw must be placed through the reinforcing member into the lattice
chord directly above it.

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 Chapter 6 - Roof Panel

Before erecting roof panels, review ScotLayout and place roof panels
around the structure in the correct orientation ready to lift into
position.

Sometimes it is easier to stand intermediate support frames after the

roof has been attached to the ridge support. These intermediate
supports can be left standing next to the ridge support frame prior to
the roof being lifted into position. Then its just a case of placing them to
the pre-marked position on the ceiling panel.

Start by installing the roof panels where the roof forms a hip and work
away from it towards the valley areas. This provides a good square
reference to work away from.

From the ScotLayout find the measurement indicating the overhang of

the soffit.

This can be supplied two ways.

One is the horizontal measurement from the wall to the bottom of the
roof panel
The other is the measurement “on the rake” (down the rafter)

Example: Measurement is 450mm from the wall to the bottom posi-

tion of the bottom plate of the roof panel.

450mm horizontally from studs

Measurement is 496mm from the wall to the bottom position of the

bottom plate of the roof panel.

Measured on the rake

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The soffit distance is 450mm. Measure from the bottom of the roof
frame along the same angle of 25 deg rake of the roof to the ceiling
frame. It should measure 496mm.
To work out the length of the pitch.
Example: Soffit divide by Cos (pitch)
450÷cos(25°)=
ׄ 496mm

If your soffit is 450mm from the wall to the bottom plate of the roof
panel, mark 496mm up from the bottom plate of the roof panel, so you
know visually where the roof panel should be resting.

Nog facing down towards

bottom of panel
496mm

Transfer the measurement to all roof panel overhangs with an ink

marker pen, remembering that the horizontal nog members need to be
facing down towards the bottom of the panel.

Starting on a hip roof frame as shown. Loosely fix the roof panel to the
ceiling as the starting point.

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When installing roof frames keep sighting from the ground up the Nogs facing down
length of the roof panel for dips or humps. These can be removed by
tweaking the intermediate support frame.

Sight up frame for dips or humps in frame

Tie downs as per Layout

If the roof panel has a dip, move the support frame towards the
external wall.
After all roof panels are perfectly straight the support and roof frames
can be screwed-off with the required hold downs, braces and brackets.

Refer to the roof layout for roof hold down types and specific locations.

Hump: move Dip: move towards

towards the ridge the roof heel

Rafter
In this example twist ties need to be connected as per the tie down
details around the external walls using specified screws.
Screw the rafter, ceiling and top plate of the wall, tying the three items Ceiling Frame
together.

Wall Plate

Stud

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Fixing the Hip Tek screw here Service Hole for Hex driver

Fixing the roof panels together on a hip can be hindered because of a

nog line put in the frame for fixing the hip ridge cap.
Having a 28mm hole placed at fixing locations during the design stage
or drilling a 13mm hole in the nog member allows the Hex driver and
Tek screw to reach the perimeter hip member.

Using the long hex driver, screw the hips together at the lower part of
the “C” Section. The fixing points should be secured at 300mm centers.

Hip rafter Nog for ridge fixing

Panels should typically be joined together with 2/10g-16x16 tek screws

at each nog line and each end of the joining rafter.

Fixing points at the nog line

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Forming Box Valleys in a Panel Roof (for sheet roofing)

After erecting all roof panels and installing the hold downs, the valley
can be measured and screwed off.

Measure the distance between the two panels as per the adjacent
image.

Measure the depth and width gap of the valley for any discrepancies.

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Fold up a tray to fit in the valley pocket formed by the roof panels.

Valley Supports

Screw the valley tray in place using wafer head Tek screws through the
top edge of the valley tray into the roof panel.

After the valley tray is fixed in place the bottom of the tray can be
formed to fit the gutter by cutting along the lines drawn on the
tray below. After all the valley trays have been installed the roof is now
ready for the roofing iron to be attached.

Example of a finished Box Valley

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Forming Box Valleys (For a Tiled Roof)

The centre of the V shaped valley tray should rest in-between the two
roof panels. It is recommended that a bead of silicon be applied to the
underside of the valley tray to prevent any metallic rub.
To make valleys you will need a folding machine or have a local
company fold them.

Once the valley tray has been located, the battens can be placed either
side for the roofing fixing.

The fold of the valley is centred

Fix the battens both sides of the valley using Tek screws.

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Once all the battens are fixed down, the valley tray can be installed.

After seating the tray, place one Tek screw each side above the return
lip creating a friction fit connection. Spacing of the screws to be no
more than 900mm apart up the valley. Notice the screw is pushing
down on the return lip to create tension. Do not screw under the return
lip.

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 Chapter 6a - Soffits & Fascia

Before Soffits are installed, a 600mm wide length of building wrap is

attached to the wall as seen in the adjacent image.
To connect building wrap to the frames, use a spray on glue. Begin by
spraying glue on to the ceiling panel, wall, top plate and any studs that
come in contact with the wrap. Stretch out the building wrap pushing it
firmly on to the glue.
A wafer head Tek screw can be used on all thicknesses. A pneumatic
staple gun could be used on 0.55mm steel.

Spray glue on to the ceiling, top

chord, and the stud

Spray glue on the ceiling panel, top chord, and the stud.

Fixing points

Once the building wrap is attached, the soffit framing can be installed
using Tek screws fixed to every stud and the roof panel making sure the
outriggers are level and square to the building.

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 Roof Framing

Once the soffit frame is installed you can begin to attach the fascia
bracket.

Soffit/Eave Framing Building Wrap

Ensure the bracket has at least 3-4 mm gap under the roofing material
height to allow the roofing to go over the top of the fascia bracket.
When satisfied the bracket is the correct height, fix with one Tek screw.

Soffit bracket attached

Plumb the fascia bracket using a level and fix in place. Repeat the
procedure at the other end of the fascia line then run a string line
between the two brackets. Fix the remaining brackets using the string
line as a height guide.

Fascia bracket on this member of

the roof panel

Fascia brackets can also be fixed in the following way.

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Connect a simple right angle bracket to the bottom plate of the roof
panel, making sure the bracket does not protrude above the top edge
of the roof panel.

Cut the dotted line to achieve

the required angle
Securely fix the bracket with Tek screws. The brackets can be sourced
from most Hardware Suppliers or folded on site.

Cut the fascia bracket at the correct angle so that the fascia bracket can
be fitted plumb as the example in the image on the right shows. Fix
with Tek screws making certain the bracket is not protruding above the
top of the roof panel. Ensure there is enough of a gap for the roofing
material to pass over the fascia.

Plumb the fascia bracket and secure with Tek screws

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Notes

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 Chapter 7 - Roof Trusses

How to Install Roof Trusses

The following instructions are a guide only, and specific details should
be supplied by the truss manufacturer.
Prior to placing trusses on to the wall framing, it is often beneficial to
mark the locations of the trusses on the framing top plates in
accordance with the supplied ScotLayout.
Tip: Before trusses are separated from their packs the top chord batten
locations can be marked with a straight edge at the required locations
to assist with installing the roof battens when the trusses are standing
upright on the framing.

Hip and Dutch Gable Installation

Girder and Truncated Girder Trusses should be set out first as they are
confined to specific locations due to fitting with other trusses.
Once Truncated Girder Trusses or Dutch Gable Trusses are placed in
their required location, the centre Jack Truss can be placed in its
corresponding location and connected to the Girder. This will hold the
Truncated Girder in a plumb (vertical) location. The remaining Jack
Trusses can be located and connected.

Where it is not practical to brace the Girder with another truss, install
the next 2-3 parallel trusses then brace the top of the Girder back to
the bottom of one of the other installed trusses. Repeat the brace in
the opposite direction to form a rigid group.

Subsequent Trusses

As each subsequent truss is installed moving away from the first truss, a
temporary batten should be attached to the top chord of each truss to
tie it to the first braced truss. The separation distance at the bottom
must be the same as the top, ensuring the trusses are located on the
set out marks and plumb.

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Gable Roof Truss Installation

Some Gable End Trusses are designed to be fully supported by a wall

directly below. It cannot act as a clear span truss.
Trusses of these types typically have only vertical members in them
with one or two small diagonal members.

If the Gable Wall does not extend up to the underside of the roof and a
Gable Truss is required on top of the end wall, there are two ways to
install this truss.

Ground Prop

Place the truss in the required location on top of the end wall. Attach a
temporary brace to the top of the truss, or to a high location on the
truss. Ensure the truss is plumb then fix the bottom end of the brace to
a ground anchor (peg or stake driven into the ground).

Wall Prop

Place the truss in the required location on top of the end wall. Attach a
brace to the face of the wall below with the top end up to, or slightly
extending past the top of the truss. Fix the brace to the truss to hold it
upright. Once 2-3 trusses have been installed parallel to the Gable
Truss, it can then be plumbed and the top braced back to the bottom of
another truss.

Screw Here

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Jack Truss Installation

Jack Trusses are best installed, beginning in the centre and moving
outwards.
Jack to Girder connections can be done several ways. The correct
connecting method for each project should be portrayed on the
ScotLayout supplied from the manufacturer.
Each Jack Truss should line up closely with a vertical web in the Girder
Truss.

Jack to Girder Truss connected 250 x 0.95mm Truss Profile

with two 90o brackets fixed with Tek screws required
for the load

Corner Jack Installation

Corner Jack Trusses can be connected to the Girder Truss by brackets at

either the top and bottom chords or by connecting the webs together
at the top and bottom with an angled bent plate.

Jack to Corner Jack Installation

Jack to Corner Jack can be connected by brackets at either the top and
bottom chords or by connecting the webs together at the top and
bottom with an angled bent plate.

Jack trusses joined to Corner Jack with

3mm 135˚angle brackets

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Brackets and Fixings

Outlined in this section are different ways to secure trusses to framing

in many different forms. It also includes ways to form truss to truss
connections.
Connection capacities must be confirmed by your engineer.

Truss Hold Down Brackets

25mm x 0.95nn Cyclone Strap H1A Bracket

Trusses must have a vertical wall member
within 80mm of the loadbearing point to
provide a bearing path to the floor and
sufficient fixing for the hold down bracket

50x50x60x1.5mm Steel Bracket Multi Ply Truss Hold Down

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Brackets and Fixings

Outlined in this section are different ways to secure trusses to framing

in many different forms. It also includes ways to form truss to truss
connections.
Connection capacities must be confirmed by your engineer.

Truss to Truss Connections

C Section Jack Truss to C Section Girder Typical C Section Truss Hold Down

Heel Extension Connection to Girder Truss to Internal Non-Loadbearing Wall

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Hip Apex Connection

At the apex of a hip, many jack top chords converge at the same
point. These can be easily connected together with an apex plate. It
can be constructed on site or supplied by the truss manufacturer. A
piece of 0.75mm steel plate, measuring approximately 170mm x
250mm is required. This is first attached to the apex truss with Tek
screws. A cut is made in the plate directly above the centre jack truss
until approximately 60mm from the edge that is attached to the apex
truss. This will allow the two sides to be bent downward and the edg-
es of the cut to overlap above the centre jack. Each truss should be
attached to the plate with Tek screws.

Truss Bracing

Truss Bracing should be applied to the roof area to provide both

bracing as well as lateral restraints.

A gable roof requires a diagonal brace inside the roof space to

prevent the end truss moving out of plumb.
Ideally it will be from near the top of the gable truss back to the
bottom chord of another truss on an approx. 45˚angle.
A batten on the bottom chord should be screwed to the trusses so they
are kept parallel to each other.

Roof cross bracing should be fixed at each end of the brace. One end
should be located at the apex of the truss and the other directly above
the loadbearing heel. The lower tail of the strap should be bent down
and fixed to the top plate or stud supporting the truss. Screw
requirements are dependant on engineers specifications.
Note: Strap bracing is available in different thicknesses. Ensure cor- Strap bracing should be tensioned with tensioners to
rect thickness is being used to match engineering specifications. ensure it is taut. Do not over tighten.

Truss Bracing Over a Cantilever

Where roof bracing finishes on trusses that are cantilevering over a

supporting wall, the force generated by the strap bracing must be
transferred to the supporting structure. In cantilever trusses this can
be achieved by adding additional members as shown in the adjacent
image.

Blocking should be applied parallel to the supporting structure on

either side of the truss heel where the strap bracing terminates.

Additional blocking should be attached to the same truss end, back to

the supporting structure, close to where the adjacent truss is
supported. Fix each end of all blocking with a minimum of two Tek
screws.

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Battens

Battens can be fixed to steel trusses quickly and easily using a Tek screw
for steel top hat battens and Wing-Tek screw for timber battens.

Wing-Tek screws have small reamer wings that drill through wood/fibre
cement and automatically snap off when they come in contact with
steel. They are located on the shaft between the thread and the self
drilling point. They are designed to cut a larger hole through softer
material so the screw thread doesn't engage with anything other than
the steel.
Wings

Steel battens are typically fixed through both lips. Minimum

requirement is one Tek screw per side. More screws may be required in
high wind areas. Check your engineering requirements to confirm fixing
needs.

Timber battens are typically fixed directly through the batten with at
least one Wing-Tek screw.
More screws may be required in high wind areas. Check your
engineering requirements to confirm fixing needs.

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Plumb and Level

When using a level on the Top Hat Profile, care must be taken to place
the level across similar parts of the truss.
If one end of the level is resting on the lip of the profile the other end
must also be. The level can also be placed against the web of the top
hat profile when measuring for plumb.

Lip in Contact with Level

Soffits, Fascia and Brackets

Fascia Brackets can be attached in many different ways. These depend

on how the truss overhang has been produced from the fabricator.
If the lips of the truss profile have been cut off then the fascia bracket
can be directly screwed to the web of the truss.

Lip Cut Off

If the lips of the profile have not been cut off then the fascia bracket
can still be attached with the help of either a small 90˚bent bracket or a
piece or “C” Section profile with one lip flattened.

“C” Section added to the side

and screwed through the top

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Soffits, Fascia Brackets continued

Some manufacturers prefer to leave the lips attached to the truss

overhang for safety, as it can be very sharp and a significant hazard on
site until the fascia is installed.
If this is the case when your trusses arrive, another way to attach the
fascia bracket is to squash one side of the lip on the overhang back
against the flange of the profile. If this has not been done in the factory
then it can be done with pliers if it is a light gauge, or a pair of flatteners
the same as used with the panel installation.

Forming Soffits

Most fascia installers recommend that the fascia is installed prior to

installing the soffit framing. Check with your fascia installer for the
correct procedure and the height of soffit framing.
Both Lips Flattened for Clarity
Soffit framing can be formed many different ways. Illustrated here are
two ways.
If the description here does not suit your project then do not use these
methods.

Using the Truss Profile

Most fascia systems have a vertical drop greater than the top cord
depth. This requires a soffit to be framed back to the wall and it needs a
“dropper”. A piece of steel to attach the horizontal framing to the truss
top cord in a vertical orientation. Depending on the fascia bracket the
dropper is sometimes not needed.

Note: This will sometimes be included in the design of the truss from
the factory.

Using the C Section Profile

Using the wider panel profile removes the need for a dropper as
sometimes it can directly connect with the lower part of the truss
overhang. It does provide better fixing ability to the fascia bracket and
therefore does not need the dropper.
Fix the horizontal framing to the overhang and back into a flattened
part of the “C” section fixed to the wall. Horizontal members should be
installed level or tilted slightly towards the overhang (1/300) to
encourage any water trapped on the soffit lining to move away from
the building.

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Overhang Supports

Sometimes truss designers utilise an overhang “doubler” to help

provide strength to an overhang. This is usually when an overhang is
longer than normal like on a corner jack.
An overhang doubler is typically screwed together through the lip with
tek screws in the factory.

Multi Ply Trusses

Trusses subjected to large loads may require to be multi ply (more than
one truss fixed together). Sometimes these are supplied as separate
trusses so they can be easily lifted and then fixed together once in
place.
The engineer/designer should supply fixing details highlighting the
location where the joiner brackets should be located.

Multi Ply Trusses are typically joined together with a “U” Shaped
bracket that is slipped over the hat section of two trusses and then
screwed in place.
On Girder Trusses, “U” Shaped brackets should be placed at the top and
bottom of all webs where another truss is connecting. Another “U”
shaped bracket must be placed over the top chord of the truss above
where the truss connects with the girder to prevent the top cords
separating under load.
Multi Ply Trusses that are not carrying other truss loads should have
brackets applied at the top and bottom of every second web in the
truss.

Some fabricators use a double ended nut to tie two trusses together.
This is usually always fitted by the fabricator in the factory and
prevents the truss from separating under load.

Double Nut

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 Chapter 8 - Hybrid Roof

Hybrid Hip End

A hybrid system combines the best parts of both ScotTruss and

ScotPanel systems. ScotTruss can achieve large spans, while the
ScotPanel system allows installers to quickly complete large areas of a
roof or ceiling ready for lining with only a few easily installed panels,
reducing the amount of time required on site to fit smaller trusses.

Hybrid Hip Ends are formed with panels being supported by the
exterior walls and a girder truss that would normally support multiple
corner jacks and jack trusses.

Hybrid Gable

Hybrid Gables are formed with panels to quickly achieve a gable

overhang. This reduces the amount of time required later in the build.

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Hybrid Hip Installation Process

Hip End Hybrids are formed quickly and easily by first placing the ceiling
panels on top of the wall frames. Ensure the ceiling panel is flush with
the outside of the framing (sometimes if there is more than one ceiling
panel this can cause a small gap between the frames). Ensure the
ceiling panels are square by measuring from corner to corner and
adjusting until the measurements are the same.
Screw down the ceiling panel at each corner. Further fixing will be
added later.
Next, install the girder truss , at each end, up against the ceiling panel.
Some hold down brackets need to be fixed to the truss prior to truss
placement.
Note: Lips at the cut ends of the truss bottom chord may be slightly
flared due to the cutting action of the Rollformer. Bend these lips
inwards to form the correct profile shape at the ends of the truss.
Fix the ceiling panel to the truss with 45mm long Tek screws (if using a
top hat truss), by ensuring the underside of the ceiling is at the correct
height in relation to the bottom of the truss.

If the ceiling panel is positioned before placing the truss it makes it

almost impossible to attach an H1A bracket correctly.
The bracket should be connected to the truss bottom chord prior to
truss placement if the ceiling panel is already positioned.

Fix H1A to truss before placement

Placement of the apex truss at this point is optional.

Roof panel installation is next.
Side roof panels should be installed first. This is done by establishing
the length of the overhang and marking the panel at the required
length for correct placement, as shown in the roof panel section. Lay
the side panel on top of the ceiling ensuring the overhang is square to
the ceiling panel. Fix the roof panel down with a loosely tightened Tek
screw near the outside edge of the ceiling panel. Then lift the top of the
panel up to align with the top of future purlins or batten on top of the
truss and fix the roof panel to the truss with 45mm screws at 600mm
centers.

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Check the truss is plumb and adjust roof panel accordingly by
unscrewing the end furthest from the truss then re-screwing. The roof
panel should meet the corner of the ceiling frame neatly.

The end roof panel can now be installed, ensuring the over hang is
correct and the corners meet neatly at the corner of the ceiling.
Roof panels forming a hip should be screwed together through the
“C” section where they meet at approx. 600mm centres.
The roof panel passing over the girder should be initially screwed down
with just Tek screws to hold it in place until hold down straps and
brackets are in place.

For sheet roofs, roof battens will join with the panels so the top of the
batten is the same height as the top of the panel. This allows the
sheeting to be screwed to the nog members of the panel.

For tile roofs, the batten will extend over the panel as normal.

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Hybrid Gable Installation

Gable Hybrids begin in the same manner as a Hip Hybrid, with the
ceiling frame being the first component to be installed.
Once laid on top of the wall frames, the ceiling panel should be screwed
with one screw at each end. Through the ceiling into the gable wall
studs.
The ceiling panel should be checked for square and adjusted to suit. If
strap bracing is required, it should be installed and tensioned now.
Once squared the walls should be made flush with the ceiling panel and
screwed at each corner. If more than one ceiling panel is required, it
may need to be propped in the middle until the truss is installed.
Next, check the height of the centre of the ceiling against the gable
wall. Once it is confirmed to be straight and not sagging, it should be
screwed off with 1/10g-16x16 Tek screws at approx 600mm centres.
Then install the first truss against the ceiling panel.
Note: Lips at the cut ends of the truss bottom chord may be slightly
flared due to the cutting action of the Rollformer. Bend these lips
inwards to form the correct profile shape at the ends of the truss.
Check the height of the ceiling chord against the bottom of the truss
then screw off with 45mm screws at approx 600mm centres.

Place any support frames on top of the ceiling and screw the bottom in
the correct location. Do not fix the top until the roof panels are in
place.

Install roof panels next ensuring that all overhangs are correct and the
roof panel is square. Ensure the roof panel is screwed to the truss at
the correct height above the top of the truss to allow the purlin or
batten to join seamlessly across the top.
Apply fixing through the roof panel into the support frames then
attach roof panel hold downs as per the engineers specifications.

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 Chapter 9 - Floors

Floor Panels

Floor Panels are formed with a “ceiling panel” that has been engineered
to withstand the loads of the building’s floor. Floor Panels are an
extremely fast way of forming a floor. It also keeps the thickness of the
floor to a minimum. Typical Floor Panel thicknesses are 90mm and
140mm without the flooring material.

Panel floors are typically fixed down in the same manner as a ceiling
frame, with a strap or just a tek screw.

Panel floors can also be fixed to the face of a wall frame. When this is
the case the hold down connection is formed with the shear strength of
the screws used. The screw connection must be confirmed as adequate
by the certifying engineer.

Floors spanning continuously over interior walls or bearers generally do

not need additional hold downs (except where wall bracing is above).
Typically only fixings to hold the wall or bearer below in place are
required. This is to be confirmed by the certifying engineer.

Laying Out Floor Panels Special Nogs (Horizontals)

When laying out Floor Panels, first become familiar with the ScotLayout
supplied by the manufacturer.
With Floor Panels there are no orientation holes, so they must be
orientated by referencing the layout with any special nogs within the
frame.
These special nogs can be extremely important later on in the build, so
special attention should be paid to them for correct panel orientation.

Joist Direction

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Brackets and Fixings

Outlined in this section are different ways to secure floor joists to

framing in many different forms. It also includes ways to form joist to
joist connections.
Connection capacities must be confirmed by your engineer and must be
suitable for the loads they are trying to restrain.

Panel Joist to Wall Connections

When a joist is resting on top of a wall, the connection must be capable

of restraining the joist in a vertical direction. Therefore an additional
bracket will need to be added to restrain the joist in shear.

Floor Joists can be successfully cantilevered over supporting walls.

These connections are similar to standard hold down connections, but
these must be confirmed by the certifying engineer.

Panel Joists can be screwed directly through the end web into the
supporting stud to fix the joist in place.

Truss Joists can also have this done, however a preferred method is to
fix a piece of truss profile to the wall studs first, then slip the truss
inside this and screw the joist into place through the bracket.

Floor Joists can be engineered to act as a girder joist and support one or
many other joists. Typical girder joists will have vertical members
inserted at the point the child joists join.
Connections can be made by either screwing directly through the
vertical members into the end web of the joist, or by fitting a bent steel
bracket to each side of the joist.
Custom made boot style brackets could be used for joists with large
loads.
All connection types must be confirmed by the certifying engineer.

Screw through vertical members

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Floor Trusses

Floor Trusses can be treated the same as Floor Joists. The profile is
different, therefore the spans are greater and the ways of fixing the
joists down can be slightly different. The principle of fixing types are
essentially the same as panel joists. Using screws in a shear direction
through the steel sides that connect together.

Floor Trusses can be held down using either a pre made bracket or a
strap, either wrapped over a chord of the truss or extended up the end
vertical member of the truss.
All brackets and straps must have sufficient screws in the shear
direction to resist any movement.

Note: Some joists will only require screws to hold them in place with no
Vertical Strap Hold Down H1A Hold Down
additional bracket.

Floor Truss to Floor Truss connections are easily made using a short
piece of truss profile.
Sufficient screws must be used in both girder and carried trusses to
restrain any loads. Connections are to be confirmed by the certifying
engineer.

Floor Truss Orientation holes are provided by an additional hole in the

bottom chord at the start end only. Although this is on the vertical edge
of the chord, it is shown on the Layout the same as a normal
orientation hole.

Orientation Hole

Floor Trusses can be supported by walls using a style called “Tail

Bearing”. This means the top chord of the Floor Truss is extended over
the supporting wall and resting on it. Fixings are then made through the
wall stud below to restrain the truss from twisting and moving out of
plumb.
Tail bearing trusses should be screwed down through the tail bearing
lips into the top plate, and screwed through the wall stud into the end
web of the Floor Truss.

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 Joist Label
Laying out Joists

Laying out Floor Joists can be done by first becoming familiar with the
ScotLayout supplied by the manufacturer.
Floor Joists use an orientation hole in the same way Wall Panels do. A
service hole is punched 100mm from one end. This is illustrated on the
Layout by a dot near the end of the joist. Joists should be placed in the
same orientation as specified in the Layout.
Pre marking the top plate of the supporting walls is recommended to
increase the speed of erection.

Orientation Hole

Joist Bracing
Herringbone Strap
Bracing within floors can be achieved by either adding blocking
between the joists or floor trusses, or by applying a strap in a
herringbone type configuration to resist a raking force.
To apply a Herringbone Strap, connect a strap to either the top or
bottom chord of a Joist. Then pass the strap over or under the adjacent
joist and repeat until the desired number of joists have a strap over
them. Repeat this process beginning on the alternate Joist chord. Once
each strap is fixed at each end, ensure the end joists are braced in a
rigid position to prevent them being twisted when the straps are
tensioned. These joists are now acting as an anchor for the Herringbone
Strap. Add a tensioner to each strap and tension until they are taught
between each joist.
When the strap is tensioned to a satisfactory tension, ensure each joist
is plumb within the strapping. Now fix the strap with a wafer head
screw in the centre of each chord web the strap passes over or under.

Floor Bracing can be achieved by forming blocking between strategic

joists. This is done by installing small frames with a diagonal brace.
This blocking type is typically used over supporting walls. The
herringbone type is used at mid-span of joists.

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Flooring Material

Sheet flooring should have glue laid along the steel joists immediately
before fitting the flooring. Flooring should then be screwed down using
Wing Tek screws. It is best to place larger amounts of glue in the areas
away from rivet connections in the floor panels, then hold the flooring
down by screwing into the loadbearing joist members. When working
with a floor panel, screws should be close to the rivet connection. This
helps prevent an uneven floor surface.

Flooring material placed over steel joists should be evenly glued prior to
fitting the flooring and then screwed evenly along each joist until it is
held down firmly.

Joins between sheets should have glue applied to each edge prior to
joining to prevent flooring movement at sheet joins and creating
movement squeaks between flooring sheets.

Flooring sheets should be staggered when being laid out.

This provides maximum strength for the floor diaphragm and the
flooring system.

Flooring material should be screwed down with Wing Tek screws and
glued at all edges. Screw spacing’s should be based upon floor joist
engineering requirements and flooring manufacturers specifications.

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Notes

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 Chapter 10 - Miscellaneous

Removing Rivets

To drill out a miss fired rivet you will need a 4.9mm double ended drill
bit and battery drill as listed in Chapter 1. Place the drill bit in the centre
of the rivet on a slight angle to prevent rivet rotation. Once the drill bit
starts to remove the head, the bit can be positioned vertically to
complete the process. In some cases the body of the rivet will remain in
the hole so you may need to keep drilling until the rivet body has been
totally removed.

To begin use a C clamp to prevent the bottom flange bending while Rivet body
pressure is applied from the drill bit.
Once the rivet has been removed a new rivet can be reinserted to
replace the miss aligned rivet. Special attention needs to be given as to
which rivet to use which is covered below.

Rivet Type

The ScotPanel system uses an Open Type Blind Dome Head rivet.
Referred to as a SS6-2 or SS6-3 rivet (SS refers to Steel Body/Steel Stem)

Diameter Code Grip Range Shear (min) Tensile (min)

4.8mm SS6-2 0.5—3.2 2400N 3030N SS 6-2

4.8mm SS6-3 3.2—4.8 2400N 3030N

It is suggested using SS6-2 for 0.55 to 0.75mm BMT gauge steel and
SS6-3 for 0.95 to 1.15mm BMT.
SS 6-3
Its important that the correct grip range is used so all steel layers are
pulled tightly together.

Note: Aluminium rivets are NOT to be used.

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Services Through Bottom Plate

When removing a section of the bottom plate to allow services to be

hidden in the walls, first make sure the correct wall has been selected.
Lie the wall on the ground in the exact position with the correct
orientation.

Mark the outline of where the cut to the frame needs to be. Using the
snips, remove the section of the bottom plate as per the example in the
adjacent image.

With the section of the bottom plate removed, stand the frame up and
slide the frame into the correct position. Fix the two end studs where Concrete nails fixing points
they meet the connecting walls and straighten the bottom plate. When
satisfied everything is correct, pin each end of the bottom plate where
the cut was made with concrete nails.

Concrete nail fixing points

In the adjacent image the bottom plate has had a section completely
removed to allow for services, the same procedures as above should be
followed.

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Moving K Brace for the Fixing Bracket

At times the wall tie down bracket installation is impeded with the
K bracing.
To get fixing on the tie down bracket, the K brace will have to be
moved.

Remove the rivets at the end of the nog as well as the K brace that goes
into the bottom plate.

Remove these rivets

With the rivets removed, lift up the end of the nog that the rivets have
been removed from, which will move the K brace out of the bottom
tray. Tek screw the bracket into the stud and fix to the floor (slab). Slip
the K brace back into place followed by the nog then replace the Lift up the nog to
removed rivets. remove K brace out
of the bottom tray

Hold down bracket

location

K Brace out of bottom tray

Hold down bracket

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 Cone Drill

At times extra service holes are needed to be added to panels for wiring
or plumbing.
In the adjacent image you will see a cone drill bit (step drill) with hole
diameter measurements. Find the 28mm diameter and drill to the
correct depth being careful not to plunge deeper as this will cause the
electrical grommet (snap-in bushing) to fall out.
To find out the hole size, measure the orientation hole.
Most common hole punches on Scottsdale roll formers are 28mm,
there are some roll formers that are 25mm.

Drilled hole

After the hole has been drilled, a 28mm electrical grommet needs to be
inserted to prevent chafing of electrical cable or contact with dissimilar
metals around services. Grommets can be sourced at most electrical
outlet stores or contact Scottsdale Construction Systems.

Grommet in place

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 Chapter 11 - Reading ScotLayout

Layout for Walls

Walls are represented on a layout in the location and orientation they

were drawn in the design software. These layouts are easily interpreted Panel Label
with a small amount of knowledge of a layout.

Depending on the size of the project will depend on the number of

pages contained within the layout.
Generally the first few pages will be dedicated to walls. Some layouts
may have more than just walls on each page .
Some layouts will have information about walls on pages containing
only the following, Exterior Dimensions, Interior Dimensions, Panel
Labels, and Openings.

Each Wall Frame will have a label. This is generally orientated in the
same direction as the wall panel ie vertical or horizontal.

Orientation Hole

Each Wall Frame will have an orientation hole punched in the bottom
plate approximately 100mm away from the end of the frame. This is
represented on the layout by a black dot.

Note: The orientation hole will always be shown the same distance
from the end of the frame, regardless of the length of the frame. This
means if the frame is 150mm long the orientation hole will be both
punched and illustrated closer to the end of the frame rather than the
start of the frame.

Orientation Hole

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Walls will be dimensioned with simple architectural style dimensioning.

Some Layouts will contain detailed information about the framing, such
as the height of individual wall frames, the steel gauge, and the vertical
member spacing.

Supports

Supports are illustrated in the same way as walls, with an orientation

hole at one end and a label positioned next to the frame in the same
orientation as the frame.

Some Layouts will contain detailed information about the support

frames, such as the height above the floor, and the steel gauge.

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Openings

A ScotLayout will often have the opening sizes listed on the layout for
builders and installation teams to check. Window

Windows and Doors are illustrated with two slightly different symbols.

Door

Opening sizes can also be placed on the Layout. They can be illustrated
in one of three ways with a label orientated in the same direction as the
wall the opening is in.

The opening label can also show the bottom chord height of the lintel.

The openings can be given a label and the sizes listed in a table divided
into windows and doors.

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Floor Joists

Floor Joists are illustrated similar to a wall frame, with an orientation

hole at one end and a label orientated in the same direction as the joist.

Ceilings

Special attention should be paid to ceiling panels when placing them on

the walls as there is often extra nogs added to the frame to satisfy fixing
requirements for later on in the build.

Special Nogs

Ceiling pages can sometimes have additional details added with

information about the frame, such as the steel gauge used, the joist
(vertical member) spacing, and the nog (horizontal member) spacing.

Roof Panels

Roof Panels are illustrated essentially the same as the Ceilings with the
label and the rafter direction given in the middle of the panel.
Once again, special attention should be given to any special members
to ensure the panel orientation is correct in the building.
Dimensions of Roof Panels are measured on the bottom face of the
panel.

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Roof and Floor Trusses

Roof and Floor Trusses are usually given their own page for clarity to
the layout.

Roof Trusses have a label that is automatically placed at one end of the
truss along with the dimension to the nearest truss. This dimension is
shown from centre to centre.

Floor Trusses have a label that is automatically placed at one end of the
truss along with the dimension to the nearest truss. This dimension is
shown from centre to centre.

Floor and Roof Trusses have no indication from the rollformer or from
the Layout to indicate the orientation. It is the responsibility of the
installer to ensure that the truss is installed the correct way.

When installing Roof and Floor Trusses, there must always be a web
positioned within the truss above the load bearing point or points of
the truss. Web Above Load
Bearing Point

Webs Above Load

Bearing Point

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Notes

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 Steel Framing Terminology

Anchor Bolts Bolts set in concrete, used to anchor structural members to concrete foundation.

Back to Back Two “C” section steel items with the back of the webs touching and flanges pointing away from each
other. Should be screwed together to get maximum benefit
Batten Length of material screwed to the structure to provide a fixing surface for roofing or ceiling material
Beam A length of sturdy squared material used to support the roof or floor of a building
Beam Pocket A space provided within a frame or truss for a beam to rest on and be fixed to
Bottom Chord The lowest longitudinal member of a truss or lintel. It’s usually horizontal, but may be at an incline depending on
the truss or lintel design
Bottom Plate Refers to the bottom most horizontal member of a panel frame
Bracing Straps or sheeting applied to the face of framing or a roof, to help maintain a rigid square profile
Bracket A structural support projecting from a wall or column on which another structural member is fastened
Buckling Bending in an abnormal direction
Building Code Regulations established by a recognised agency describing design loads, procedures and construction
details for structures. Usually apply to designated geographical areas
Building Wrap Breather type underlay fabric which allows water vapour to pass through from one direction

“C” Section A member cold-formed from steel coil in the shape of a “C”
Cantilever Projection of a building or member beyond its support
Cladding The external envelope of the building, particularly of the walls
Code Local authority or national building regulations or requirements
Concentrated Load Super imposed load centred at a given point
Concrete Plastic mixture of aggregates, cement and water which will set to a given mould
Corner Jack A single sloping girder truss at a 45o to its supporting truss. Used to form a ridge in a hip end

Dead Load Any permanent load such as the weight of the truss itself, purlins, sheathing, roofing, ceiling, etc
Deflection The amount a member bends or flexes under an applied load
Diaphragm A large flat area braced to provide resistance from any direction
DPC Damp-Proof Course is a continuous layer of impervious material placed under the bottom plate to protect the upward
migration of moisture. If using Zincalume steel do not use a DPC that has a carbon content

Drawings Layout - layout of the site showing the position of the building and the positions of the services.
Details - larger-scale details to show exactly what is required at a certain position.
Plan - layout of the rooms showing all floor areas, windows, doors fixtures, fittings and services
Dutch Gable A roof with a small gable at the top of a hip end

E
Eaves Refer to Soffit
Erection The on-site assembly of pre-engineered components to form complete structure
Engineering Calculations done by an Engineer to determine structural requirements

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F

Fascia Exterior timber/steel trim at the lower edge of a roof to which the spouting or gutter is attached
Flange The sides of a “C” section, perpendicular to the Web
Flashing Waterproof material installed to prevent the passage of water into a structure at a cladding joint
Foundations Base of the building that rests on the ground and supports the structure
Framed Opening Opening in a wall that is framed with light gauge members
Framing Steel items that have been riveted together to form a panel frame. Frames make up the structural
skeleton of a building

Gable The triangular upper part of a wall at the end of a ridged roof
Galvanised Steel coated with zinc to prevent the steel from rusting
Girder A main horizontal structural member that supports vertical loads from other members
Girder Truss A truss designed to carry heavy loads from other structural members framing into it.
Grommet A plastic ring inserted into a service hole to prevent chafing against the sharp steel edge
Gutter A tray used for carrying rain water to a roof drain

Heel Joint The point on the truss where the top and bottom chords intersect
Hip Roof A type of roof where all sides slope downwards to the walls
Hold Down Also known as anchor bolts.
These can be:
Expansion Bolt and washer
Expansion Bolt and “L” bracket
Brackets
Straps
Hybrid Two Scottsdale systems used together to make construction faster and easier

Insulation Material used to prevent heat, cold, fire, or sound from passing through the framing

Jack Stud Term used to indicate that a stud member is less than full length.
Jack Truss A small truss that slopes in one direction only and are supported by another truss at at least one end
Jamb Stud The vertical stud forming an opening
Joists Regularly spaced framing members of a floor.

“K” Brace Bracing within the framing using diagonal members forming a “K” Shape

Lintel Structural member above a door or window opening

Live Load Any moving or variable load which the structure must support
Lips The small bent edges of the a steel profile
Load Bearing Wall Exterior walls and any interior walls that are designed to take load from above

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N

Nogs Short horizontal items between studs. Also known as Dwangs or Blocking

Orientation Hole A hole punched in the bottom plate of a wall frame to indicate the direction it is to be installed
Outrigger A member fixed to a truss to form an overhang beyond the wall line
Overhang The extension of the top chord of a truss beyond the outside of the heel

P
Pile Foundation post below the flooring level
Pitch Slope of a roof plane, usually expressed in degrees eg: 22 degree pitch
Plate A wide strip of steel material
Plating Attaching metal plate to one or two sides of a support frame, floor joist, or lintel to provide extra strength
Plumb Upright, vertical
Point Load A point load is a load applied to a single, specific point on a structural member as opposed to being evenly distributed
Purlin Regularly spaced horizontal roof member set out on top of a steel roof to accommodate the roofing material prior to
fixing

R
Rafters The steel items spanning between support points carrying the roof loads
Raking An item that is not horizontal or vertical
Ridge The apex of the roof
Rivet A small headed pin with expandable shank for joining light gauge steel

S
Saddle Truss Used to create a secondary roof line, placed on top of other trusses
ScotLayout Software used to create site drawings and layout information of steel framing
ScotSteel Software used to design Scottsdale Steel framing for manufacturing and construction
Screw Off Placing screws in their required locations to fix items together securely
Service Hole A hole punched in the centre of the web to allow wires and pipes to pass through
Shears An electric or hand tool used to cut steel, also known as Snips
Shear Force Force acting on material in a direction perpendicular to the extension (fixing)
Shim A piece of steel or plastic used to level framing to the slab or flooring
Shoot Wall This is a wall that extends upward past the normal wall height to meet a ceiling or roof plane
Sill The lower horizontal portion of a window or door opening
Skillion Roof A roof sloping on one direction only, without a ridge or peak
Slab A flat concrete floor that the framing rests on
Soffit The undersides of the roof overhang which are horizontal, and often have a gutter attached at the outer edge.
Sometimes called Eaves
Span The distance between 2 supporting points
Spreader Bar A beam used with a crane for lifting evenly from two or more points
Square When an internal corner equals 900
Strap A narrow strip of steel used to fix one item to another to resist Shear Force
Strap Bracing Lengths of Strap attached to the face of wall, roof, or ceiling panels in a crossed orientation to make the framing
rigid
Stud Vertical item extending continuously from bottom to the top of a wall panel

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T

Top Chord Inclined or horizontal upper member of a truss or lintel

Top Hat Profile The shape of the truss profile. Called “Top Hat” as it looks like a traditional top hat
Top Plate Refers to the top horizontal or raking member of a wall panel
Truncated Girder A girder truss with a horizontal portion across the top allowing for other members to pass over perpendicular to it
Truss Shorter framing members assembled into many triangles to form a rigid shape to span between supports.
Usually used to form a roof or a suspended floor

Uniform Load Loads that are equal along the entire length of a member
Uplift Wind load on a building which causes a load in an upward direction

Valley The “V” created where two sloping roofs meet

Vapour Barrier Sheet material which inhibits the passage of water vapour into the building

Web The widest part of the “C” section that joins the two sides together. This has the small ribs in it
Web Member Members that join the top and bottom chords to form the triangular patterns typical of trusses and lintels.

Y
Yield Strength The strength of steel. Usually G550 or G350

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 Top Hat Truss Connec-

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 C - Section Truss Connec-

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 Truss Types

Common Truss

Truncated Truss

Truncated Girder Truss

Vaulted Truss

Corner Jack Mono Pitch Truss

Scissor Truss

Parallel Chord Truss

Saddle Truss

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Notes

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