Focal Length On Lens
Focal Length On Lens
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Most photographers have a pretty basic understanding about lenses. But if that mm number printed on your
lens barrel is still a bit of a head-scratcher, it’s time for a crash course in focal length. Here’s everything you
need to know.
Different focal length lenses have different purposes. If you’re shooting wildlife (http://www.digital-photo-
secrets.com/tip/2664/animal-and-wildlife-photography/), for example, you want a longer focal length lens
(100mm is the minimum, but at least 300mm is optimum) so you can get optically closer to your subject
without fear of scaring it away. If you’re shooting architecture (http://www.digital-photo-
secrets.com/tip/4519/photographing-architecture/), on the other hand, you might want a wide angle lens
(35mm or smaller), because with a wide angle lens you can include all of your subject in a single shot without
having to back up a quarter mile.
A lens with a 75-300mm Focal Length
My favorite use for my wide angle lens is kind of the opposite of shooting big sweeping landscapes or
impressive buildings—I like to get really close to smaller subjects. This gives the object the illusion of being a
lot deeper or longer than it actually is. That can result in a photo that seems either creepy or immersive,
depending on the subject. To make this work you have to pay close attention to focus—remember that your
lens can only focus to a certain point (http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/614/how-do-they-do-that-
getting-everything-in-focus/), so don’t get so close that your subject blurs.
I took this picture on the coast of Oregon. I set my lens to 18mm, got on my stomach, and focused on the
footprint in front of me. Even though my lens was right next to the footprint, it still appears “normal” sized. If
you are going to use a wide angle lens to bring more outside elements into a photo, try to include one “up
close” subject. This helps give your image a feeling of depth and dimension.
Telephoto lenses are especially handy when you can’t get physically close to your subject, but they have other
uses as well - portrait photography, for example. In fact my favorite lens for shooting portraits is a 70mm.
Focal length is important for portraits because lenses tend to cause different types of distortion at different
focal lengths. A wide angle lens may exaggerate your subject’s features, which makes it the wrong choice for
portraits. But at 70mm, your subject’s features start to flatten out a little. That’s because the distance between,
say, your subject’s nose and her cheekbones appears less at longer focal lengths. So those longer focal
lengths are actually flattering, because they can make features look smaller. Once you get past 100mm, the
effect starts to become a little strange, and your subject’s face will start to look wide and kind of pancake like,
which is less flattering.
You can use this effect to optically decrease distances between objects as well, and also to flatten features of
inanimate objects. It’s hard to get your mind around what you can do with a telephoto lens until you actually
get out there and start experimenting, so if you own a lens with a longer focal length, I encourage you to
spend a day playing around with it and comparing images shot at different focal lengths. Do this with your
wide angle lens, too. The only way you can really start to get a good feel for focal length and how it can
change a scene is if you experience those differences in your own work.
No matter how hard you try to keep your hand in focus, at a certain distance you just won’t be able to do it
anymore. When this happens, you have passed the focal point of your eyes. Most human eyes focus at or
near 50 millimeters, so that means that the focal point of your eyes is 50 millimeters away from your face.
When you’re close, go wide. Use a wide angle lens with a smaller mm focal length like 18mm.
When you’re at a distance, go long - a telephoto lens with a larger mm focal length number like
200mm or 300mm.
And don’t forget to consider perspective, too—use your knowledge about focal length to visually exaggerate
or reduce the distances between objects. It’s a kind of magic, when you think about it.
Comments
Wendy Grady says:
Jan 3, 2017
I was given a Sony 6000Y with a 16-50 mm and a 55-210mm lense. How does this camera compare to the dsl
cameras? It seems the 16-50 mm doesn't zoom in as close as I would like. I am a beginner but would love to have
a camera that will do it all. I will be using this camera for taking pictures of my children at sporting events and
family portraits and vacationsee. Should I look at investing in a different lense? Also wanted automatic zoom and this camera
doesn't have that.
Reply
You are correct, the 16-50mm lens won't zoom close enough. But your camera has support for
interchangeable lenses, so yes I recommend you look for a second lens. Look for a mm range like 50-200 to get a good
zoom - the E 55210 mm F4.5-6.3 OSS from Sony is fairly inexpensive and should do the trick.
I'm not sure what you meant about automatic zoom - I don't know of any camera with auto zoom.
David.
Reply
rhf says:
Mar 9, 2017
I think she means a zoom button, like on compact cameras.
Reply
Reply
I guess you'll need a fairly wide angle lens to photography a 6ft high person from 4ft away. I'm guessing you'll
need a 15mm lens, but that's also going to give the subject a very distorted view in the image. I recommend trying to get a
larger distance between you and your subject in order to capture full length photos with your 35mm lens.
David.
Reply
Reply
Photographing sports photos indoors is one of the hardest things to do with photography. You need a 'fast
lens' - which means one with a low f-number like f/2 or smaller. You'll also need to get really close to the action (ie no zoom
lens). I explain all the techniques here: http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/4376/ask-david-scourge-photography-blurry-
images/ (http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/4376/ask-david-scourge-photography-blurry-images/)
David.
Reply
Reply
Reply
Reply
You can ignore the crop factor unless you are using a film lens with your digital camera. All digital lenses
have already done the conversion for you. So yes, you can go with the 50mm f/1.8D lens and you'll know it will take photos
just like a 50mm 'full frame' camera will.
David.
Reply
I have recently bought a Canon Rebel T6(1300D) with the kit lens 18-55mm only. I am more interested in clicking
portraits. So which lens should I add to my camera? A 55-250mm Tele lens or 50mm f1.8 Prime lens?
Many Thanks :)
Reply
For portraits, I'd definitely go with the Prime lens because it has a wide open aperture that means you can
get a much more pleasing 'blurry background' look than is possible with a telephoto.
David.
Reply
Ryan Gainer says:
Oct 3, 2016
Yeah I'm just starting out again with amateur photography got a Canon Rebel t6i and I was thinking about getting a
50-millimeter single Focus lens what the amateur 1.8 would this be good to use in a church setting for a baptismal
please respond back as quickly as she can as this will be next Sunday thank you and have a great day
Reply
Yes, a lens with a f/1.8 is great for low light situations because it can let a lot more light into the camera. They
are called 'fast lenses' because they allow you to use a faster shutter speed. More on those types of lenses here:
http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/1803/what-is-a-prime-lens-why-use-one/ (http://www.digital-photo-
secrets.com/tip/1803/what-is-a-prime-lens-why-use-one/)
David.
Reply
Reply
This article will help you with the other settings for great Portraits: http://www.digital-photo-
secrets.com/tip/3314/5-camera-setting-tips-for-shooting-great-portraits/ (http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/3314/5-
camera-setting-tips-for-shooting-great-portraits/)
David.
Reply
Cynthia says:
Sep 21, 2016
Hi David,
I'm getting into concert photography, what is the best lens for this. I want to be able to go wide or zoom in while in
the photographers pit and then when out of the photographers pit really zoom in. I'll most likely have to go behind
the audience. Is there one lens to get for this or will I have to get two lenses. I also need low aperture for low light.
Thanks,
Cynthia
Reply
David.
Reply
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Difficulty:
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Categories:
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