Adafruit Arduino Lesson 4 Eight Leds
Adafruit Arduino Lesson 4 Eight Leds
Guide Contents 2
Overview 3
Parts 4
Part 4
Qty 4
Breadboard Layout 5
The 74HC595 Shift Register 7
Arduino Code 9
Brightness Control 12
Other Things to Do 14
Although you could wire up eight LEDs each with a resistor to an Arduino pin (like we did for an RGB LED in Lesson 2)
you would rapidly start to run out of pins on your Arduino. If you don't have a lot of stuff connected to your 'duino it's
OK to do so - but often times we want buttons, sensors, servos, etc and before you know it you've got no pins left. So,
instead of doing that, you are going to use a chip called the 74HC595 Serial to Parallel Converter. This chip has eight
outputs (perfect) and three inputs that you use to feed data into it a bit at a time.
This chip makes it a little slower to drive the LEDs (you can only change the LEDs about 500,000 times a second
instead of 8,000,000 a second) but it's still really really fast, way faster than humans can detect, so it's worth it!
Part
Qty
Half-size Breadboard 1
Arduino Uno R3 1
It is probably easiest to put the 74HC595 chip in first, as pretty much everything else connects to it. Put it so that the
little U-shaped notch is towards the top of the breadboard. Pin 1 of the chip is to the left of this notch.
Digital 4 from the arduino goes to pin #14 of the shift register
Digital 5 from the arduino goes to pin #12 of the shift register
Digital 6 from the arduino goes to pin #11 of the shift register
All but one of the outputs from the '595 are on the left hand side of the chip, hence, for ease of connection, that is
where the LEDs are too.
After the chip, put the resistors in place. You need to be careful that none of the leads of the resistors are touching
each other. You should check this again, before you connect the power to your Arduino. If you find it difficult to arrange
the resistors without their leads touching, then it helps to shorten the leads so that they are lying closer to the surface
of the breadboard.Next, place the LEDs on the breadboard.
The longer positive LED leads must all be towards the chip, whichever side of the breadboard they are on.
It now just remains to attach the jumper leads as shown above. Do not forget the one that goes from pin 8 of the IC to
the GND column of the breadboard.
The shift register holds what can be thought of as eight memory locations, each of which can be a 1 or a 0.
To set each of these values on or off, we feed in the data using the 'Data' and 'Clock' pins of the chip.
The clock pin needs to receive eight pulses. At the time of each pulse, if the data pin is high, then a 1 gets pushed into
the shift register. Otherwise, it is a 0. When all eight pulses have been received, then enabling the 'Latch' pin copies
those eight values to the latch register. This is necessary, otherwise the wrong LEDs would flicker as the data was
The chip also has an OE (output enable) pin, this is used to enable or disable the outputs all at once. You could attach
this to a PWM capable Arduino pin and use 'analogWrite' to control the brightness of the LEDs. This pin is active low,
so we tie it to GND.
Here is the full sketch, the discussion of how it works follows on from it.
/*
Adafruit Arduino - Lesson 4. 8 LEDs and a Shift Register
*/
int latchPin = 5;
int clockPin = 6;
int dataPin = 4;
byte leds = 0;
void setup()
{
pinMode(latchPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(dataPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(clockPin, OUTPUT);
}
void loop()
{
leds = 0;
updateShiftRegister();
delay(500);
for (int i = 0; i < 8; i++)
{
bitSet(leds, i);
updateShiftRegister();
delay(500);
}
}
void updateShiftRegister()
{
digitalWrite(latchPin, LOW);
shiftOut(dataPin, clockPin, LSBFIRST, leds);
digitalWrite(latchPin, HIGH);
}
The first thing we do is define the three pins we are going to use. These are the Arduino digital outputs that will be
connected to the latch, clock and data pins of the 74HC595.
int latchPin = 5;
int clockPin = 6;
int dataPin = 4;
Next, a variable called 'leds' is defined. This will be used to hold the pattern of which LEDs are currently turned on or
off. Data of type 'byte' represents numbers using eight bits. Each bit can be either on or off, so this is perfect for
keeping track of which of our eight LEDs are on or off.
The 'setup' function just sets the three pins we are using to be digital outputs.
void setup()
{
pinMode(latchPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(dataPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(clockPin, OUTPUT);
}
The 'loop' function initially turns all the LEDs off, by giving the variable 'leds' the value 0. It then calls
'updateShiftRegister' that will send the 'leds' pattern to the shift register so that all the LEDs turn off. We will deal with
how 'updateShiftRegister' works later.
The loop function pauses for half a second and then begins to count from 0 to 7 using the 'for' loop and the variable 'i'.
Each time, it uses the Arduino function 'bitSet' to set the bit that controls that LED in the variable 'leds'. It then also calls
'updateShiftRegister' so that the leds update to reflect what is in the variable 'leds'.
There is then a half second delay before 'i' is incremented and the next LED is lit.
void loop()
{
leds = 0;
updateShiftRegister();
delay(500);
for (int i = 0; i < 8; i++)
{
bitSet(leds, i);
updateShiftRegister();
delay(500);
}
}
The function 'updateShiftRegister', first of all sets the latchPin to low, then calls the Arduino function 'shiftOut' before
putting the 'latchPin' high again. This takes four parameters, the first two are the pins to use for Data and Clock
respectively.
The third parameter specifies which end of the data you want to start at. We are going to start with the right most bit,
which is referred to as the 'Least Significant Bit' (LSB).
The last parameter is the actual data to be shifted into the shift register, which in this case is 'leds'.
void updateShiftRegister()
{
digitalWrite(latchPin, LOW);
shiftOut(dataPin, clockPin, LSBFIRST, leds);
digitalWrite(latchPin, HIGH);
}
If you wanted to turn one of the LEDs off rather than on, you would call a similar Arduino function (bitClear) on the
We can use this pin along with the 'analogWrite' function, that we used back in Lesson 3, to control the brightness of
the LEDs using PWM (also see Lesson 3).
To do this, all you need to do, is to change the connection to pin 13 of the 74HC595 so that instead of connecting it to
Ground, you connect it to pin 3 of the Arduino.
The sketch below, will once all the LEDs have been lit gradually fade them back to off.
int latchPin = 5;
int clockPin = 6;
int dataPin = 4;
int outputEnablePin = 3;
byte leds = 0;
void setup()
{
pinMode(latchPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(dataPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(clockPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(outputEnablePin, OUTPUT);
}
void loop()
{
setBrightness(255);
leds = 0;
updateShiftRegister();
delay(500);
for (int i = 0; i < 8; i++)
{
bitSet(leds, i);
updateShiftRegister();
delay(500);
}
for (byte b = 255; b > 0; b--)
{
setBrightness(b);
delay(50);
}
}
void updateShiftRegister()
{
digitalWrite(latchPin, LOW);
shiftOut(dataPin, clockPin, LSBFIRST, leds);
digitalWrite(latchPin, HIGH);
}
You are going to use much of the same breadboard setup in lesson 5 with a few minor changes, so do not dismantle it
all just yet.
https://adafru.it/aUy
https://adafru.it/aUy
Simon Monk is author of a number of books relating to Open Source Hardware. The following books written by Simon
are available from Adafruit: Programming Arduino (http://adafru.it/1019), 30 Arduino Projects for the Evil
Genius (http://adafru.it/868) and Programming the Raspberry Pi (https://adafru.it/aM5).