Cute Pumpkin Patch Pattern

v2.02

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Introduction
Dear Knitter,

I know that there are It’s not very hard but maybe a tiny bit fiddly.
quite a couple of other But personally speaking, I love this kind of work
pumpkin patterns and it actually relaxes me.
around. But to be You could even embroider the pumpkins. Not all
quite honest with you, pumpkins are pure perfect orange. Some have
I was not all that hap- these green little warts (for lack of a better
py with them. For me, word) and maybe a snail already nibbled on one
they weren’t detailed of them.
enough and involved
too much sewing to Most importantly, I want you to have fun with
get the structure right. this pattern and get creative yourself. I’ll try
to provide some further options along the way
These pumpkins involve almost zero sewing but feel free to adjust it according to your own
other than weaving in the ends. The ribbed preferences.
structure is, for the most part, created through
smart decreases and increases. happy knitting,
Norman
You can approach this pattern in two ways: You
can either just knit a pumpkin that has already PS: Please, comment on the corresponding post
been harvested, or create a full pumpkin patch on my blog if you have a question. That way,
with vines and leaves and everything that’s part others can see my answer as well. But make
of that. sure to watch my video for this pattern first.

If you want to recreate the latter, then you will PPS: There is also an add-on available for this
have to sew some and do some (easy) magic pattern with 4 additional types of pumpkin. You
with thin wire to support the leaves. can buy it here.

© copyright Norman Schwarze, www.nimble-needles.com, all rights reserved Page 2

Materials: Size & Gauge:
• Scraps of fingering sock yarn in green and The finished pumpkin is 5.5 cm (2.2 inches)
orange. I used around 12 grams of the Woll- high and has a total diameter of roughly 8 cm
meise Twin in the colors of Good Morning and (3.1 inches)
Pistazie per pumpkin (and some leftovers in
brown for the harvested one). Gauge for a 5x5 cm swatch in flat
• Double-pointed needle set 2.50 mm; I am stockinette stitch: 17 stitches x 23
using the Knitter‘s Pride Karbonz 15 cm set*; rows
they are by far my favorite dpns for these small
diameters.
• Scissors & a tapestry needle*
• toy stuffing*
• thin,malleable wire*(like the ones they sell for
jewelry or bonsais) and a wire plier
• Stitch marker* (optional)

In terms of wool and needle size, you can get creative. I love the Wollmeise yarn, but this
pattern does not really require it. And I wouldn‘t bother trying to meet my gauge either. First of all,
it‘s almost impossible to measure my gauge on such a structured 3-dimensional object. Plus I don‘t
see much value in knitting these in the exact same size. You could knit these with super chunky
wool and I‘m sure it would look just as amazing. Just remember to knit with a relatively small needle
size compared to your yarn weight. You will be stuffing these pumpkins and if your stitches are too
loose the stuffing will show through.
Important: Even though I take great care creating all my patterns, this pumpkin is meant for de-
corative purposes only. I sadly have no experience with parenting myself. So I would not use them
as a toy for small children - especially if you decide to reinforce them with wire.

*affiliate link

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Knitting techniques used:
This pumpkin patch is mainly shaped through a combination of increases and decreases - some of
them may be a little bit more uncommon. It‘s probably not the easiest pattern for beginners but I
tried to link to tutorials so you can catch up before you start.

K = knit These pumpkins are knit in the round on a set

P = purl of 5 double-pointed needles. If you still need to
SSK = Slip Slip Knit do some catching up, here’s my guide to knit-
K2tog = knit two together ting in the round.
KLL = Knit left loop
KRL = Knit right loop You might also check out my guide on 10 tips
K1TOG RL = Knit one stitch together with for better results with dpns.
right loop (so a bit like a KRL. But instead of
knitting a new stitch from the loop, you knit it
together) Feel free to comment on the corresponding post
K1TOG LL = Knit one stitch together through on my blog in case you got any further question
the back loop with the left loop of the stitch one (that way, everyone can see your questions and
row below my answers.)
K3tog centered = knit three together cen-
tered
And a standard longtail cast on.

Instructions between two asterisk (*) indicate

you have to repeat that section over and over
again until the end of a round or the indicated
spot.

If you still require help with these and other knitting techniques, please visit my website where
you‘ll find step by step tutorials and videos for almost all important knitting techniques.

© copyright Norman Schwarze, www.nimble-needles.com, all rights reserved Page 4

Instructions
Cast on 4 stitches with a long tail cast-on using the green yarn for the stem. Leave a tail of
12cm/5 inches for weaving in the ends later on.

Row 1-6: Knit an i-cord (so knit 4 stitches, slip Round 21: *k6, KLL, KRL, k6* (84 stitches)
the work to the right end of the needle and knit Round 22: knit
across without turning).
Consider shuffling the stitches around so you
If you want to create a vine, then knit the i-cord don‘t have any complicated stitches at the be-
however long you want the vine to be (mine are ginning or end of your needles.
around 25 cm/10 in)
Round 23: *K2tog, k5, KLL, KRL, k5, SSK*
Row 7: k2, KLL, k1, KLL, k1 (6 stitches)
Since you are knitting 2 increases and 2 decreases
Row 8: Continue the i-cord (but maybe adjust per repeat, the stitch count remains 84 stitches.
the tension by pulling on the stitches to close
the gap a bit better) Round 24: knit
Row 9: *k1, KLL* (12 stitches) Repeat rounds 23+24 eight more times
Round 10: Join in the round by distributing the Round 41: *K2tog, k4, K1togrl, k1togll, k4,
stitches to 4 needles and knit across. You may SSK* (72 stitches; instead of these two complica-
place a stitch marker here to mark the begin- ted you can also just knit aross. This will create
ning of your round so you don‘t get confused less pronounced segments at the bottom.)
later on. Round 42: knit
Round 11: Change to the orange yarn and Round 43: *K2tog, k3, K1togrl, k1togll, k3,
*k1, KLL, KRL, K1* (24 stitches); you can cut SSK* (60 stitches)
the green yarn leaving a tail for weaving in later.
Round 44: knit
Round 12: knit
Round 45: *K2tog, k2, K1togrl, k1togll, k2,
Round 13: *k2, KLL, KRL, k2* (36 stitches) SSK* (48 stitches)
Round 14: knit Round 46: knit
Round 15: *k3, KLL, KRL, k3* (48 stitches) Round 47: *K2tog, k1, K1togrl, k1togll, k1,
Round 16: knit SSK* (36stitches)
Round 17: *k4, KLL, KRL, k4* (60 stitches) Round 48: knit
Round 18: knit Round 49: *K2tog, K1togrl, k1togll, SSK* (24
stitches)
Round 19: *k5, KLL, KRL, k5* (72 stitches)
Round 50: knit
Round 20: knit
Round 51: *K2tog, SSK* (12 stitches)

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Finishing up
Cut the yarn leaving a tail of around 40 cm/15 inches and pick up the tapestry needle. Then,
thread the tail through the remaining stitches on your needles and drop them as you go (picture above).
Secure the two ends from the stem of the pumpkin by tying them into a knot and weave in the tail
at the end of the vine.

Next, take the toy stuffing and fill the pumpkin

with it. Try to massage the stuffing into the little
bumps so the sections really pop (see picture
on the right).

Once you are satisfied, pick up the tapestry

needle again, pull gently at the tail to close the
hole, and then sew over once (see picture be-
low). Then, bring the needle all the way to the
top going right through the stuffing. Go around
a single little bar of a stitch, get out at the bot-
tom again, and pull a little to cinch the pumpkin
(see picture in the bottom right corner).
Repeat once or twice until you are satisfied and
weave in the tail.

© copyright Norman Schwarze, www.nimble-needles.com, all rights reserved

Page 6
You can't get enough of knitting these pumpkins? Then I have good news for you. In September
2022, I published an add-on that comes with 4 additional types of pumpkin: The warty pumpkin, an
acorn squash, a bottle gourd, and the patty pan squash.

Buy it on Etsy | Buy it on Ravelry

Instructions for the leaves
Cast on 3 stitches with a long tail cast on using the green yarn. Leave a tail of about 18 cm/7
inches for weaving in the ends later on. The leaves are knit flat.

Row 1-6: Knit an i-cord Row 25: k1, SSK, k9, K2tog, k1 (13 stitches)
Row 7: k1, KLL, KRL, k1, KLL KRL, K1 Row 26: purl
(7 stitches; place a stitch marker before or after Row 27: k1, SSK, k7, K2tog, k1 (11 stitches)
the middle; I found it helps me a lot because the
leaves are increased symetrical on both sides. Row 28: purl
Row 8: purl Row 29: k1, SSK, k5, K2tog, k1 (9 stitches)
Row 9: k2, KLL, k1, KLL, k1, KRL, k1, KRL, k2* Row 30: purl
(11 stitches) Row 31: k1, SSK, k3, K2tog, k1 (7 stitches)
Row 10: purl Row 32: purl
Row 11: k2, KLL, k2, KLL, k3, KRL, k2, KRL, Row 33: k1, SSK, k1, K2tog, k1 (5 stitches)
k2* (15 stitches)
Row 34: purl
Row 12: purl
Row 35: SSK, k1, K2tog (3 stitches)
Row 13: *k2, KLL, k3, KLL, k5, KRL, k3, KRL,
Row 36: purl
k2* (19 stitches)
Row 37: k3tog centered (1 stitch)
Row 14: purl
Row 15: k2, KLL, k4, KLL, k7, KRL, k4, KRL,
k2* (23 stitches) Cut the yarn leaving a tail of 12cm/5 inches,
pull through to secure the „bind off“, and
Row 16: purl
weave in the end.
Row 17: k1, SSK, k17, K2tog, k1 (21 stitches)
Row 18: purl
Then start all over again and knit as many lea-
Row 19: k1, SSK, k15, K2tog, k1 (19 stitches) ves as you like. I attach two leaves per vine.
Row 20: purl
Row 21: k1, SSK, k13, K2tog, k1 (17 stitches) Note: You can also purl the center stitch star-
Row 22: purl ting from row 7 onwards. I tried this for my test
knit, but actually decided it looks better without
Row 23: k1, SSK, k11, K2tog, k1 (15 stitches) it (see pictures on the next page).
Row 24: purl

© copyright Norman Schwarze, www.nimble-needles.com, all rights reserved Page 7

Finishing up the leaves
Pick up the wire and thread it on a tapestry needle (if your wire is a bit thicker, then you may not
need the needle). I use a tapestry needle to go over and under the strands in between two knit sti-
tches (the ones you also use for mattress stitch) on the outside of the leaves. I start at the tip and
go all the way down to the stem, and then repeat on the other side (see picture below).

Next, I will also reinforce the vines with wire

(simply thread it through the middle of the
i-cord). Once that is done, I pierce the i-cord
vine at the position I want the leave to "grow"
with the two ends sticking out from the leaves,
and wrap the ends around the stem 3 or for
times. Cut the excess wire (see picture below).

From here, I wrap the yarn tail of the leaf a

couple of times around the stem to cover the
wire and then cover up the join by grafting
stitches. So, I go under the two legs of a knit
stitch "V" close to the join and then go under a
"V" on the other side of the gap. Repeat until
you are satisfied and weave in the tail.

© copyright Norman Schwarze, www.nimble-needles.com, all rights reserved

Page 8
Final notes
I hope you had fun knitting my little pumpkin patch. I really love how they look at the center of
a table. I'm pretty positive they will be a stunning decoration anywhere else around the house as
well. Parts of this pattern are somewhat fiddly but I hope the result makes up for that! I trust you
understood that you can repeat the instructions as many times as you want.

Make sure to share your finished work with me. Please kindly understand that I cannot answer
Simply add me on social media or add them as a questions via email or direct message on soci-
project on Ravelry. I‘d be delighted to see what al media. But you are more than welcome to
other knitters create with my instructions. comment on my blog or the respective video on
youtube.
And while we are at it, feel free to contact me if
you found a typo or think there‘s a little mistake Last, but not least, make sure to follow me on
in this pattern. I tried to check it diligently mul- social media and bookmark my blog.
tiple times, and of course, there was a test-knit
for this pattern.

happy knitting
Norman

© Copyright Norman Schwarze, www.nimble-needles.com, all rights reserved. No part of this pat-
tern may be reproduced, copied, or forwarded in any form. This pattern is supplied for your
personal and non-commercial use only. This pattern was first published in October 2020. As long
as you link to my website and give credits, small business owners are welcome to sell finished
objects based on this pattern.

© copyright Norman Schwarze, www.nimble-needles.com, all rights reserved

Page 9