JACQUARD UNIT, VAPI

The Jacquard weaving technique employs a mechanism that allows for the independent control of
individual warp threads. In Jacquard terry fabrics, the design is created by manipulating the height
and configuration of the loops formed during the weaving process. This can produce varying textures
across the fabric, with some areas featuring raised pile loops while others remain flat, enhancing
both the visual contrast and tactile qualities

The capacity of the jacquard attachments on the terry looms at the Vapi factory is 672 hooks,
making elaborate designs possible. Simple geometric motifs are produced on Dobby looms which
work on shafts instead of hooks. Motifs up to 101 cm in width with curves are produced on jacquard
looms. For most towels, the Ends per Inch is 60 and the Picks per Inch varies according to the design.
The designers at the Welspun Head Office, Mumbai receive briefs from clients and they primarily
work on Photoshop. Once the design is approved, it is sent to the factory where the CAD designers
rework on it on Ned-Graphics software. They assign weaves to different elements of the design and
map it on a graph sheet which is then fed to the Bonas jacquard system. They use electronic looms,
rapier and air-jet. The weft accumulators can hold maximum 8 shuttles, out of which 1 is used for the
hem, 1 for the body. Jacquard designs usually incorporate only 2 colours even though technically 6
are possible, but so many are not production friendly. A third colour can be introduced through
techniques like extra-weft and sculpting.

1) Preparation of the Loom:

The Jacquard loom is prepared with 2 sets of warp yarns (longitudinal threads), one for the
ground and one for the terry/pile structure. The warp yarns are threaded through individual
hooks and heddles controlled by the Jacquard mechanism.

2) Weaving Process:

The CAD file is uploaded to the loom's control system. The Jacquard mechanism lifts and
lowers individual warp threads according to the design pattern, while the weft threads are
interlaced to form the fabric.

3) Terry Toweling:

Terry weaving typically involves the use of two sets of warp yarns. The first set of warps is
responsible for forming the base of the fabric, while the second set is specifically used to
create the loop pile effect that characterizes terry cloth. In the terry weaving process, the
second set of warp yarns is raised intermittently during the weaving to form loops. This is
unlike traditional weaving methods, where only a single set of warp yarns is used. The
alternating movement of the two sets of warps allows for the loops to be formed, enhancing
the fabric's surface area and increasing absorbency.

4) Finishing:

The final stage in terry towel production is finishing, which encompasses a variety of
processes designed to enhance the fabric's performance and appearance. This can include
processes like shearing, where the loops are trimmed to achieve uniformity and softness.
Other finishing techniques may involve applying anti-bacterial or water-repellent treatments,
making the towels more functional and long-lasting.
COTTON SPINNING VAPI

The Vapi industry only produces cotton yarn, rest are sourced from Anjar, Hyderabad or other third-
party vendors.

The production of cotton yarn involves several key processes that transform raw cotton into high-
quality yarn. Here is an overview of the typical steps involved:

1. Cotton Sourcing: High-quality raw cotton is sourced from various regions. The cotton is then
transported to the factory for processing. Welspun is a vertically integrated company so all fibres are
sourced from Welspun regulated farms and farmers. Currently, Welspun sources 45% of its cotton
from sustainable cotton options.

2. Ginning: The raw cotton undergoes ginning, a process where seeds are separated from the cotton
fibers. Vapi receives compressed cotton bales which have already undergone ginning.

BLOWROOM PROCESSES

This stage involves a series of machines designed to open, clean, mix, and blend the fibers, ensuring
they are free from impurities and ready for further processing.

3. Bale separation: Bale separation, also known as bale breaking or bale opening, is the first process
in the yarn manufacturing industry. It involves the opening and separation of compressed bales of
raw cotton into loose fibers for further processing. Bales are typically highly compressed to facilitate
transportation and storage. The bales are opened using machinery equipped with spikes, rollers, or
blades that loosen and separate the tightly packed fibers.

4. Pre- Cleaning: The opened fibers pass through pre-cleaning machines to remove large impurities
like leaves, stems, and other foreign matter. This step helps in reducing the load on subsequent
cleaning machines.

5. Fine Opening: The fibers are further opened using machines like fine openers or beaters. These
machines ensure that the fibers are separated into individual entities, making them easier to clean
and blend.

6. Mixing and Blending: For consistency and uniformity, fibers from different bales are mixed and
blended. This is done using mixing machines that ensure the fibers are evenly distributed. Proper
blending helps in achieving uniform quality in the final yarn.
7. Fine Cleaning: The fine cleaning process involves removing smaller impurities such as dust, dirt,
and short fibers. Machines like scutchers or multi-mixers are used. These machines use air currents,
beaters, and screens to separate and remove contaminants.

8. Evening and Feeding: The cleaned and blended fibers are formed into an even, continuous sheet
called a lap. This lap is then fed into the carding machine.

Throughout the blowroom process, dust and waste are continuously removed using suction systems
and filters. This helps in maintaining a clean working environment and ensures the quality of the
fibers.

9. Carding: Its primary goal is to transform the cleaned fibers into a continuous, uniform web or
sliver

Steps in the Carding Process:

a) Feeding: The fibers are fed in a lap form or directly through a chute feed system from the
blow-room.

b) Opening and Individualization: The fibers are further opened and individualized by a series
of rotating cylinders covered with fine wire teeth. The main components involved in this
process are:

i. Licker-in: The initial cylinder that receives the fibers, opening them further
and removing larger impurities.

ii. Cylinder: The central and largest drum that continues to open, clean, and
align the fibers. It rotates at high speed and is covered with fine, closely
spaced wire teeth.

c) Cleaning: The carding machine removes remaining impurities such as short fibers, neps
(tangled clumps of fibers), and dust through various mechanisms, including:

i. Carding Segments: These segments are positioned around the cylinder and
work to comb and clean the fibers.

ii. Stripping Rollers: These remove impurities from the cylinder and licker-in
surfaces.

d) Fiber Alignment: The carding process aligns the fibers parallel to each other, which is
essential for producing a consistent and uniform sliver. This alignment is achieved as the
fibers pass through the wire teeth on the cylinder and other carding elements.

e) Formation of the Web: The aligned fibers form a thin, continuous web as they are
transferred from the cylinder to the doffer, a smaller drum that collects the fibers from the
main cylinder.

f) Sliver Formation: The web of fibers is then condensed into a continuous, rope-like strand
called a sliver. This is typically done using a coiler, which ensures the sliver is evenly and
neatly wound into cans for easy handling.
 g) Delivery: The finished sliver is delivered from the carding machine into large cylindrical
containers called cans. The sliver is now ready for the next stage of processing.

10. Drawing: Multiple slivers are combined and drawn out to improve the fiber alignment and
consistency. Here’s a detailed explanation of the drawing process:

a) Feeding: Either 6 or 8 slivers from the carding process are fed simultaneously into the
drawing frame.
b) Drafting: The drawing frame consists of several pairs of rollers arranged in sequence. Each
successive pair of rollers rotates faster than the previous one, creating a drafting effect. This
process draws out the slivers, reducing their thickness and improving fiber alignment. The
drafting process involves carefully controlling the speed and pressure of the rollers to achieve
the desired level of attenuation and uniformity.
c) Doubling: Doubling refers to combining multiple slivers into one. This is often done in
multiple stages.
d) Auto-levelling: Modern drawing frames are equipped with auto-levelling systems that
continuously monitor the thickness of the sliver and make real-time adjustments to maintain
uniformity. This technology helps to correct any inconsistencies and ensures that the final
sliver meets the required specifications.
e) Output: The drawn and levelled sliver is collected into cans for easy handling and
transportation to the next stage of production.

Key Components of the Drawing Frame:

 Feed Rollers: Guide and feed the slivers into the drawing frame.
 Drafting Rollers: Pairs of rollers that draft the sliver by rotating at different speeds.
  Autolevelling System: Monitors and adjusts the drafting process to ensure consistent sliver
thickness.
 Delivery Rollers: Deliver the drawn sliver to the coiling mechanism.
 Coiler: Condenses the drawn sliver into cans for easy handling.

11. Finisher Frame: In yarn production, the finisher frame, often referred to as the "speed frame" or
"intermediate frame," is a critical machine used in the intermediate stages of the spinning process. It
primarily functions to further refine the sliver produced by the drawing process, transforming it into
a more uniform and slightly twisted strand known as roving. This roving is then suitable for the final
spinning process.

Steps in the Finisher Frame Process:

1. Feeding: The slivers from the drawing process are fed into the finisher frame. 16 slivers are
often combined.

2. Drafting: The finisher frame features a series of rollers that draft the sliver, drawing it out to
a finer radius. The drafting mechanism is similar to that used in the drawing frame but is
more precise, as the goal is to prepare the fiber for the final spinning process.

3. Twisting: Unlike the drawing frame, the finisher frame introduces a slight twist to the drafted
fibers. This twist is crucial because it imparts some strength to the roving, making it easier to
handle and reducing the risk of breakage during subsequent processing.

4. Building: The twisted roving is wound onto bobbins or spools in a systematic manner. The
finisher frame's building mechanism ensures that the roving is wound evenly and compactly,
facilitating easy transport and feeding into the spinning frame.

Key Components of the Finisher Frame:

 Feed Rollers: Guide and feed the slivers into the machine.

 Drafting System: Consists of multiple pairs of rollers that progressively draw out and thin the
slivers.

 Flyer: A component that imparts the necessary twist to the roving.

 Bobbin and Flyer Arrangement: Works together to wind the twisted roving onto bobbins in a
uniform manner.

 Coiler: Ensures the even and systematic winding of the roving onto bobbins.

12. Combing (optional): Combing is a crucial process used in the production of high-quality, fine
yarns. The primary purpose of combing is to remove short fibers, thereby enhancing the quality,
strength, and smoothness of the final yarn.

Steps in the Combing Process:

a) Feeding: The sliver from the carding process is fed into the combing machine. This sliver
typically contains fibers of varying lengths and some residual impurities.
 b) Lap Preparation: The carded sliver is converted into a lap, a uniform sheet of fibers, which is
then fed into the combing machine. This ensures an even and controlled feeding of fibers.

c) Combing: The combing machine uses a series of fine combs to carefully separate the longer
fibers from the shorter ones. The main components involved in this process are:

i. Circular Combs: Rotating combs that open up and align the fibers.

ii. Top Comb: A stationary comb that helps in detaching short fibers and
impurities as the lap is fed through the circular combs.

iii. Detaching Rollers: These rollers help to pull the longer fibers through the
combs, leaving the shorter fibers and impurities behind.

d) Removal of Short Fibers: The combing action removes a significant portion of the short
fibers, typically around 10-15% of the total fiber content. These shorter fibers, known as
noils, are collected separately and may be used for other purposes.

e) Formation of Combed Sliver: The longer, cleaner, and more aligned fibers are collected into a
continuous strand called a combed sliver.

Key Components of the Combing Machine:

 Circular Combs: Rotating combs that open and align the fibers.

 Top Comb: Stationary comb that helps to remove short fibers and impurities.

 Detaching Rollers: Pull the longer fibers through the combs.

 Lap Feed Mechanism: Ensures even and controlled feeding of the lap into the combing
machine.

 Noil Collection System: Collects the short fibers and impurities removed during the combing
process.

13. Roving or Speed Frame: The drawn sliver is transferred onto the roving frame using a creel,
where it is converted into a thinner and slightly twisted strand called a roving. This prepares the
fibers for the spinning process.

Steps in the Roving Process:

a) Feeding: The slivers produced from the drawing process are fed into the roving frame (also
known as the speed frame). Multiple slivers are often combined to improve uniformity.

b) Drafting: The roving frame contains a series of rollers that progressively draft (draw out) the
slivers. This reduces the thickness of the sliver while further aligning the fibers. The drafting
system is critical for controlling the evenness and consistency of the roving.

c) Twisting: After drafting, a slight twist is introduced to the fibers. This twist is essential as it
imparts enough strength to the roving to hold the fibers together, preventing them from
breaking or becoming entangled during subsequent handling and processing. The amount of
twist added during the roving process is significantly less than that added in the final
spinning stage.
 d) Winding: The twisted roving is then wound onto bobbins or spools. The winding mechanism
ensures that the roving is evenly and systematically wound, facilitating easy handling and
feeding into the spinning frame.

Key Components of the Roving Frame:

 Feed Rollers: Guide and feed the slivers into the drafting system.

 Drafting Rollers: A series of rollers that progressively reduce the thickness of the slivers by
drawing them out.

 Flyer: A rotating component that adds the necessary twist to the drafted fibers.

 Bobbins/Spools: Cylindrical devices onto which the twisted roving is wound.

 Coiler Mechanism: Ensures the even and systematic winding of the roving onto Cheese.

Importance of the Roving Process:

 Improved Fiber Alignment: The drafting process further aligns the fibers, which is crucial for
producing high-quality yarn.

 Uniformity: By combining multiple slivers and carefully controlling the drafting process, the
roving frame ensures that the roving is uniform in thickness and consistency.

 Strength and Coherence: The slight twist added to the roving provides the necessary
strength to hold the fibers together, reducing the risk of breakage during handling and
subsequent processing.

 Preparation for Spinning: The roving process transforms the sliver into a form that is ready
for the final spinning stage, where it will be twisted more tightly to form yarn

14. Spinning using Ring Frame: The spinning process can vary based on the type of yarn being
produced (e.g., ring spinning, open-end spinning, etc.), but the general principles remain consistent.
Welspun Vapi uses ring spinning to produce cotton yarns for terry towels. Ring frame transforms
roving into yarn by drafting, twisting and winding the fibers to create a continuous and coherent
strand of yarn. Its functioning is similar to that of a speed frame.

Components of the Ring Frame:

a) Drafting Rollers: A series of rollers that draw out and further reduce the thickness of the
roving as it passes through the ring frame. The rollers are set in pairs, with each pair rotating
at different speeds to create the desired draft.

b) Ring and Traveller: The ring is a circular metal component that surrounds the bobbin and
provides a stationary guide for the yarn. The traveller is a small, rotating component that
moves around the ring and guides the yarn as it is twisted and wound onto the bobbin.

c) Spindle: The spindle is the rotating part of the ring frame that holds the bobbin and applies
the twist to the yarn. The spindle rotates at high speeds to create the desired yarn
characteristics.

d) Tensioning Devices: These devices control the tension of the yarn during spinning to ensure
consistent quality and prevent breaks or snarls.
 e) Winding Mechanism: The winding mechanism winds the finished yarn onto bobbins or
spools in an organized and compact manner, ready for further processing or packaging.

Importance of the Ring Frame:

 Quality: The ring frame produces high-quality yarn with excellent strength, uniformity, and
smoothness. The ability to control twist and draft ensures that the yarn meets specific
standards for various textile applications.

 Versatility: It can produce a wide range of yarns, from fine and delicate to coarse and heavy,
making it suitable for various types of fabrics and textiles.

 Consistency: The ring frame provides consistent spinning performance, which is crucial for
maintaining uniformity in large-scale yarn production.

15. Winding: Finished yarn, after being spun, is wound onto cone-shaped spools or carriers which
weigh about 2-2.5kgs. This process prepares the yarn for further processing, packaging, and eventual
use in textile manufacturing.

Winding Mechanism:

o Cone Holders: These hold the empty cones onto which the yarn will be wound.

o Guide Rollers: Guide the yarn smoothly from the feed bobbins to the cones,
preventing tangles or snags.

o Tensioning Devices: Maintain consistent tension on the yarn during the winding
process to ensure even and smooth winding.

o Winding Heads: The parts of the machine that actually wind the yarn onto the
cones. They control the speed and pattern of winding to ensure uniformity.

Winding Process:

o The yarn is drawn from the bobbin and passed through the guide rollers and
tensioning devices. It is then wound onto the cone in a controlled manner.

o The winding pattern can vary based on the type of yarn and the requirements of the
textile manufacturing process. Common patterns include cross-winding and parallel
winding.

Cone Preparation:

o Cones are typically made of cardboard or plastic and are designed to be lightweight
and easy to handle. They are prepped by ensuring they are clean and free of defects
before winding. Plastic cones with perforations are specially prepared for cone
dyeing so the dye can penetrate from the inside as well.

Quality Control:

o Throughout the winding process, the yarn is monitored for consistency, tension, and
uniformity. Any irregularities are detected and corrected to ensure that the finished
product meets quality standards.
Key Components of the Winding Machine:

o Cone Holders: Secure the empty cones during the winding process.
o Guide Rollers: Direct the yarn from the bobbin to the cone.
o Tensioning Devices: Maintain the correct tension on the yarn to prevent defects.
o Winding Heads: Control the winding pattern and speed.
o Cutting Mechanism: Often includes a device to cut the yarn at the end of the
winding process.

16. Quality Control: Quality control in yarn manufacturing is crucial for ensuring that the final
product meets industry standards and customer expectations. The quality control process involves
several steps, each aimed at detecting and addressing potential defects and ensuring consistency
throughout the production process.

1. Raw Material Inspection

 Fiber Quality: Assess the quality of raw fibers (e.g., cotton, wool, synthetic fibers) before
they enter the production process. This includes checking for cleanliness, fiber length,
strength, and any defects.

 Batch Testing: Test samples from different batches of raw material to ensure they meet the
required specifications.

2. Preparation Stage Quality Control

 Cleaning and Blending: Ensure that fibers are properly cleaned and blended to achieve
uniformity. Inspect for contamination, dust, and any inconsistencies in the blend.

 Sliver Quality: Inspect slivers (and lapping processes) for uniformity in thickness, fiber
alignment, and consistency.

3. Carding Process Inspection

 Fiber Alignment: Check the carded web for proper fiber alignment and uniformity.

 Removal of Impurities: Ensure that impurities, short fibers, and neps (tangled clumps) are
effectively removed.

4. Drawing Process Quality Control

 Drafting Consistency: Monitor the drafting process to ensure that the sliver is evenly thinned
and consistent.

 Fiber Alignment: Check for proper fiber alignment and uniformity.

5. Combing Process Quality Control

 Noil Removal: Ensure that short fibers and impurities are effectively removed during
combing.

 Combed Sliver Quality: Inspect the combed sliver for evenness and consistency.
6. Roving Process Inspection

 Drafting and Twisting: Check the drafted and twisted roving for uniformity in thickness and
twist.

 Consistency: Ensure that the roving is consistent and free from defects.

7. Spinning Process Quality Control

 Twist and Tension: Monitor the amount of twist and tension applied during spinning. Ensure
that the yarn meets the required specifications for strength and texture.

 Yarn Uniformity: Inspect the spun yarn for consistency in thickness, texture, and strength.

 Defects: Check for defects such as thick or thin spots, uneven twist, and slubs (thick spots).

8. Winding Process Quality Control

 Winding Uniformity: Ensure that the yarn is wound evenly onto cones or bobbins, with
consistent tension and alignment.

 Defect Detection: Check for any defects in the winding process, such as tangles, knots, or
irregular winding patterns.

9. Final Yarn Inspection

 Visual Inspection: Perform a visual inspection of the final yarn to detect any visible defects,
such as color variations, slubs, or inconsistencies.

 Testing: Conduct various tests on the final yarn, including:

o Strength Testing: Measure the tensile strength of the yarn to ensure it meets
required specifications.

o Elongation Testing: Assess the yarn's elongation properties to ensure flexibility and
durability.

o Evenness Testing: Check for uniformity in thickness and texture using specialized
equipment.

10. Packaging and Shipping Inspection

 Packaging Quality: Ensure that the yarn is properly packaged to prevent damage during
storage and transportation.

 Labeling: Verify that labels on the packages correctly reflect the yarn's specifications,
including fiber content, color, and any other relevant details.

DYEING OF COTTON YARN

Process:

1. Preparation of Cones:
 o Winding onto Cones: The cotton yarn wound on a cardboard cone in transferred
onto a plastic cone with perforations and covered with filter paper to filter out large
dye molecules.

o Pre-treatment: Cotton yarn often undergoes pre-treatment to remove any

 Scouring: Washing the yarn to remove natural oils, dirt, and impurities.

 Bleaching: Applying a bleaching agent to achieve a uniform white or light

2. Loading the Dyeing Machine:

o The cones of cotton yarn are loaded into the package dyeing machine which are
specifically designed for dyeing yarns wound onto cones or packages. These
machines allow for efficient dyeing of multiple yarn packages simultaneously.

3. Dyeing:

o Dyeing Solution: A dyeing solution is prepared, which includes water, dye (usually
reactive dye for cotton), and any necessary chemicals (such as salts or pH adjusters)
to facilitate the dyeing process.

o Application Methods:

 Padding: The yarn is passed through a dye bath or padding machine where
the dye solution is applied directly to the yarn.

 Immersion: The yarn cones are immersed in the dye bath, allowing the dye
to penetrate the fibers over time. This is the most common method for cone
dyeing.

 Spray: The dye solution is sprayed onto the yarn to achieve even application.

4. Fixation:

o After dyeing, the yarn needs to be fixed to ensure the dye adheres properly to the
cotton fibers. Fixation can be done through:

 Steaming: Exposing the yarn to steam helps to fix the dye and improve color
fastness.

 Heat Setting: Applying heat helps to stabilize the dye and ensure it bonds
well with the fibers.

5. Rinsing:

o The dyed yarn is thoroughly rinsed to remove any excess dye, chemicals, and
impurities. Proper rinsing is essential to prevent color bleeding and ensure that the
yarn maintains its color consistency.

6. Drying:

o The yarn is dried to remove moisture. Drying methods may include air drying, heat
drying, or tumble drying, depending on the dye and fiber type.
7. Inspection and Quality Control:

o After drying, the dyed yarn is inspected for color consistency, evenness, and any
defects. Quality control checks ensure that the yarn meets the required
specifications and color standards.