Zuker Patterns
Zuker Patterns
Many
of
the
original
Pattern
Language
patterns
lead
one
to
timeless
designs.
Excellent
examples
include
“Good
Materials”
(207),
“Natural
Doors
and
Windows”
(221),
“Small
Panes”
(239),
“Half
Inch
Trim”
(240),
and
“Ornament”
(249).
Everyone
wants
their
home
to
be
unique
and
special.
Sadly,
modern
house
construction
makes
this
nearly
impossible
in
all
but
the
most
cosmetic
of
ways.
People
have
a
certain
reverence
for
buildings
that
are
old.
They
give
a
sense
of
character,
solidity,
and
permanence.
They
take
us
back
to
a
time
when
people
actually
built
things
with
their
hands.
But
they
do
not
really
have
to
be
old.
It
is
possible
to
build
new
houses
that
have
this
essence.
It
is
not
really
about
being
old
–
it
is
about
being
timeless.
Chronological
age
has
nothing
to
do
with
timeless.
It
is
the
handmade
individuality
and
attention
to
details
that
brings
it
out.
Timeless
is
a
state
of
mind.
In
the
following
pages
12
new
patterns
are
proposed
in
an
attempt
to
further
define
the
crafting
of
timeless
houses.
All
the
photos
are
from
a
house
built
in
1989
in
Austin,
Texas
USA
by
the
author.
The
house’s
design
and
construction
was
heavily
influenced
by
Christopher
Alexander’s
book
“A
Pattern
Language”.
The
12
new
patterns
offered
here
were
developed
during
that
construction,
and
are
not
authorized
or
approved
by
Alexander.
But
the
book
also
says
“…adjust
the
sequence
by
adding
your
own
material
…if
you
want
to
change
any
patterns,
change
them.”
254
You
Cannot
Build
Something
Beautiful
If
Your
Mind
Is
On
The
Clock
Modern
home
construction
and
the
materials
available
at
local
building
supply
stores
are
optimized
for
low
cost
and
speed
of
assembly.
To
the
homebuilding
industry
“time
is
money”,
and
design
choices
are
always
made
with
this
in
mind.
But
it
is
no
way
to
build
something
beautiful.
This
pattern
is
not
really
about
going
slow
(though
it
is
highly
encouraged)
because
beauty
can
also
arise
from
a
single
stroke.
Beauty
can
happen
during
a
manic
burst
of
energy.
But
beauty
is
highly
unlikely
to
happen
when
you
are
thinking
about
time
and
money.
You
might
be
concerned
about
how
long
it
is
going
to
take
to
build
a
certain
way
or
how
much
it
is
going
to
cost.
Or
you
might
simply
be
hurrying
to
get
a
task
done
by
the
end
of
the
workday.
All
these
decisions
involve
taking
shortcuts
and
making
tradeoffs
between
time
and
beauty,
and
when
our
mind
is
thinking
about
money
and
time,
it
often
makes
unwise
choices.
Some
shortcuts
you
take
that
might
have
saved
a
few
dollars
at
the
time
will
later
seem
very
shortsighted.
Unfortunately
one
does
have
to
be
practical.
The
high
cost
of
labor
and
materials
is
always
hanging
over
us.
With
limited
funds
we
might
have
to
make-‐do
with
little
more
than
old
salvaged
building
materials.
But
fear
not,
for
you
can
also
build
some
of
the
most
beautiful
things
this
way.
Learning
to
improvise
with
limited
resources
forces
you
to
become
creative.
Necessity
is
the
mother
of
invention,
and
hard
work
never
killed
anybody.
Instead
of
buying
it,
you
make
it.
Hand
crafting
everything
takes
time.
Working
with
salvaged
materials
like
barn
timbers
and
old
windows
takes
even
longer,
but
it
is
well
worth
it.
Try
to
adopt
a
new
attitude
where,
even
if
you
only
manage
to
get
a
single
board
put
up
that
day,
you
still
say
“It
was
a
good
day”.
In
the
design
and
building
phases
always
try
your
hardest
to
stick
with
the
most
beautiful
way
you
have
thought
of.
Once
you
have
imagined
what
you
really
want,
building
anything
less
is
folly.
Do
not
make
compromises
simply
to
make
things
go
faster.
Work
as
long
and
hard
as
it
takes
to
get
it
right.
Put
blinders
on
about
the
time
required
to
accomplish
your
task.
Think
only
about
how
to
best
make
whatever
it
is
you
are
working
on.
Either
you
are
trying
to
make
something
beautiful,
or
you
are
trying
to
get
it
finished.
You
cannot
serve
two
masters.
255
Nothing
Phony
Modern
technology
offers
us
many
new
products
to
fool
the
eye.
Faux
marble,
timber
beams
not
really
made
of
wood,
stone
fireplaces
of
lightweight
imitation
rocks
.
Once
you
find
such
material
in
a
building,
nothing
you
see
can
be
trusted.
It’s
Not
Nice
to
Fool
Mother
Nature.
If
it
looks
like
a
wooden
beam,
then
it
should
be
a
wooden
beam.
It
should
never
be
plastic
or
some
other
material
painted
to
look
like
a
wood
beam.
The
same
holds
for
faux
stone.
A
good
fake
may
fool
some
people
for
a
while,
but
the
charade
is
over
as
soon
as
they
touch
it.
Build
with
honesty.
Do
not
build
using
phony,
fake,
or
faux
materials.
It
is
a
tough
rule
to
live
by
at
times,
but
it
does
not
have
to
limit
the
beauty
of
your
creation.
It
is
perfectly
fine
to
decorate,
camouflage,
or
otherwise
change
an
object’s
appearance.
You
just
cannot
resort
to
deception.
Never
try
to
make
something
appear
to
be
something
that
it’s
not.
256
Hand
Tools
–
Purposeful
Imperfection
“Good
Materials”
(207)
introduced
the
concept
of
selecting
material
that
are
easy
to
cut
on
site
without
expensive
machinery.
Power
tools
are
not
always
the
answer.
When
building
on
a
small
scale,
power
tools
can
be
more
of
a
nuisance
than
a
help.
By
the
time
you
set
up
a
table
saw
and
find
the
extension
cord,
you
could
have
cut
the
wood
with
a
Japanese
hand
saw.
You
also
have
time
to
ponder
what
you
are
doing
with
a
hand
saw;
you
make
mistakes
real
quick
with
a
power
saw.
There
is
another
important
facet
to
this
pattern,
the
purposeful
imprecision
and
character
that
sets
apart
hand-‐made
objects
from
their
machine-‐made
counterparts.
When
carving
and
finishing
wood,
only
hand-‐tools
“honor”
or
bend
with
the
grain
of
the
wood.
This
natural
variation
adds
an
additional
level
of
depth
and
detail
not
found
in
machine-‐made
items.
Other
hand
crafting
includes
soft
rounded
corners
and
chamfered
edges,
which
make
for
much
more
“touchable”
wood
than
the
sharp
corners
of
machine-‐cut
wood.
Also,
hand
carved
finishes
create
fine
detail
in
otherwise
flat
and
featureless
areas.
Before
assuming
that
you
need
lots
of
special
power
tools
for
your
homebuilding
project,
think
about
whether
it
is
practical
to
use
simple
hand
tools
for
many
jobs.
For
wood
surfaces
that
people
routinely
come
into
physical
contact
with,
always
try
to
shape
and
finish
the
wood
with
hand
tools.
Hand
carved
wood
has
a
unique
depth
and
texture
that
invites
being
touched.
The
purposeful
imperfection
of
hand
tools
is
an
important
means
to
achieve
timeless
architecture.
257
Hierarchy
of
Scale
The
main
ideas
in
this
pattern
were
first
presented
in
“Half
Inch
Trim”
(240).
But
this
is
such
an
important
and
profound
idea
that
it
needs
to
be
a
pattern
of
its
own.
Also
called
“The
Missing
Pattern”,
*see
footnote.
Truly
remarkable
buildings
all
share
one
feature
–
they
are
interesting
no
matter
where
we
are
looking.
Exceptional
rooms
are
rich
in
detail
whether
we
are
looking
at
the
whole
room
or
at
a
smaller
scale
like
a
doorway.
And
the
richness
continues
as
we
see
finer
and
finer
details
–
down
to
the
very
screws
and
pegs
that
hold
it
together.
Simply
having
beautiful
objects
in
a
room
will
not
make
it
be
a
beautiful
room.
It
is
the
multiple
levels
of
architectural
detail
captured
in
one
space
that
makes
such
rooms
remarkable.
There
should
be
something
interesting
to
look
at
everywhere
we
gaze,
from
big
to
small
and
everywhere
in
between.
Hierarchy
of
Scale
is
the
idea
that
each
space
,
whether
it
is
a
building
or
a
room
or
a
doorway,
is
made
of
an
assemblage
of
smaller
things.
Each
of
those
smaller
things,
when
viewed
closely,
is
comprised
of
yet
smaller
things.
Like
fractals,
details
within
details.
They
form
a
natural
hierarchy.
You
cannot
directly
see
hierarchies,
you
can
only
see
the
objects
that
make
them
up.
But
the
hierarchies
are
there
and
they
are
very
important.
From
“Half
Inch
Trim”
(240)
we
know
that
the
smallest
scale
we
need
be
concerned
with
is
about
a
half-‐
inch,
which
is
also
about
the
same
scale
as
decorative
trim
and
handmade
details.
We
also
know
from
“Half
Inch
Trim”(240)
that
each
successive
step
in
scale
can
be
described
as
a
ratio
that
measures
how
big
of
a
jump
it
is
to
the
next
level
below.
Sometimes
the
jump
in
scale
is
small,
like
1:3.
This
means
that
the
space
is
divided
into
3
subspaces
or
it
is
comprised
of
roughly
3
subobjects.
Other
times
we
make
larger
jumps,
like
1:5
or
1:7.
If
the
jump
in
scale
is
too
large,
over
1:10,
then
we
no
longer
perceive
it
as
a
natural
hierarchy.
When
architectural
details
are
members
of
natural
hierarchies,
then
everything
appears
to
be
in
its
place
and
right
where
it
belongs.
When
they
are
not
part
of
a
hierarchy,
the
features
are
likely
to
look
unconnected,
like
they
were
simply
added-‐
on.
Hierarchies
are
all
about
how
things
relate
to
each
other
and
not
about
the
things
themselves.
Below
are
three
examples
to
better
illustrate
Hierarchy
of
Scale.
First
example:
Go
back
and
look
at
the
photo
at
the
beginning
of
this
chapter.
(exterior
corner
of
house,
with
a
window,
small
trees
in
foreground)
Can
you
see
any
hierarchies?
Starting
with
the
largest
scale:
1)
the
exterior
of
the
house
is
visually
divided
up
1:5
by
the
protruding
ends
of
the
timber
frame,
which
repeat
about
every
10
feet.
2)
Each
10ft
bay
between
timbers
is
divided
up
1:5
by
the
smaller
rafter-‐tails,
spaced
about
every
2
feet.
3)
At
the
finest
scale
is
the
wooden
trim
at
the
drip-‐
edge,
at
about
1:8.
It
has
sufficient
detail
to
take
us
down
to
the
scale
of
“Half
Inch
Trim”(240).
Second
example:
In
the
photo
above
of
the
exposed
ceiling
beams
can
be
seen
four
levels
of
hierarchy.
1)
There
are
four
large
scissor
trusses,
which
divide
the
greatroom
into
1:3
(only
one
section
is
completely
visible).
2)
Each
big
section
of
ceiling
is
divided
into
1:3
by
the
horizontal
timber
purlins.
3)
Each
of
those
sections
is
divided
up
about
1:9
by
the
ceiling
planks.
4)
The
edges
of
the
planks
display
the
curves
of
the
logs
they
were
cut
from
(also
called
waney
board).
The
exposed
knots
and
curves
on
the
board’s
edge
have
enough
detail
to
take
us
into
the
realm
of
“Half
Inch
Trim”(240)
and
we
are
done.
Third
example:
4
more
levels
of
hierarchy,
but
in
this
case
they
are
not
so
much
created
by
division,
but
defined
by
the
major
objects
within
the
space.
We
start
with
the
same
greatroom
photo
from
earlier:
1)
This
room
is
defined
by
its
main
components
such
as
walls,
ceilings,
alcoves,
etc.
Here
we
focus
on
the
end-‐wall.
2)
The
wall
is
composed
of
the
timber
scissor
truss
in
the
plaster,
the
fireplace,
and
the
french
door.
3)
If
we
focus
on
the
door
we
see
it
has
a
substantial
door
frame,
brass
hinges
and
hardware,
the
doors
themselves,
and
the
glass.
4)
Our
focal
point
might
then
become
the
door
frame
and
joinery
between
the
post
and
the
top
header.
There
we
find
a
primitive
dovetail
joint
with
hand-‐carved
chamfered
edges.
Again,
the
end
of
our
path
is
at
the
level
of
“Half
Inch
Trim”
(240).
We
could
have
taken
quite
a
number
of
different
paths
in
our
choices
of
what
to
focus
on.
When
the
hierarchies
are
done
well,
each
one
takes
us
to
something
interesting.
There
should
be
many
paths
to
choose
from,
each
one
part
of
a
hierarchy
designed
to
draw
the
eye
towards
it.
Realistically
you
cannot
have
every
square
inch
of
your
house
contain
an
interesting
focal
point
with
fine
close-‐up
detail.
But
you
want
lots
of
these
places
where
you
are
drawn
to
look
closely,
as
many
as
you
can
manage.
You
cannot
have
too
many.
A
good
rule
of
thumb
is
that
there
should
be
something
of
interest
no
further
apart
than
the
reach
of
your
arms.
While
standing
a
step
or
two
away
from
a
wall
or
structure,
spread
your
arms
out.
Somewhere
in
that
area
should
be
something
interesting,
a
focal
point
that
draws
the
eye
and
captures
the
imagination.
If
you
come
up
short
and
find
a
blank
area
with
no
interesting
feature,
then
your
job
is
to
get
creative
and
remedy
the
situation.
Add
some
architectural
detail
or
trim,
or
divide
up
the
area
into
smaller
sections.
Be
mindful
of
the
hierarchies
and
ensure
that
each
space
in
your
house
is
visually
made
of,
or
divided
up
into,
a
series
of
smaller
spaces.
The
ratio
from
one
scale
to
the
next
should
be
between
1:3
and
1:10.
Each
of
those
smaller
spaces
should
in
turn
be
divided
up
until
the
details
reach
the
half-‐inch
scale.
Build
special
objects
or
textures
of
visual
interest
and
fine
detail
–
no
further
apart
than
the
reach
of
your
arms.
Look
for
opportunities
where
you
can
exploit
and
extend
natural
hierarchies
that
arise
from
the
building
itself.
*Footnote:
For
many
years
I
believed
that
the
pattern
“Hierarchy
of
Scale”
was
already
in
the
original
“Pattern
Language”
book.
I
was
quite
sure
of
it.
I
even
recall
quoting
it
to
people.
I
knew
the
book
so
well
that
I
hardly
had
to
actually
look
at
it
anymore.
One
day
I
tried
to
find
the
Hierarchy
of
Scale
pattern
and
discovered
I
could
not.
I
had
to
look
three
or
four
times
before
I
could
convince
myself
that
it
really
was
not
there.
More
than
all
the
others,
this
is
“The
Missing
Pattern”.
258
See
How
It’s
Built
“Structure
Follows
Social
Spaces”
(205)
introduces
the
concept
that
people
must
see
“how
it
is
put
together”,
“Gradual
Stiffening”
(208)
also
touches
upon
this
topic.
It
is
now
easy
to
build
houses
and
fixtures
where
the
details
of
how
it
is
constructed
are
no
longer
visible.
This
hidden-‐from-‐view
style
is
a
relatively
modern
invention
and
it
takes
something
special
away
from
the
beauty
of
any
house.
One
compliment
often
used
for
desirable
houses
is
“sturdy”.
It
arises
when
you
can
see
both
how
the
structure
is
made,
and
that
those
elements
seem
well
built.
It
is
a
good
thing.
But
having
massive
timbers
alone
is
not
sufficient
if
you
cannot
fully
see
how
they
hold
the
roof
up.
Load
bearing
timber
beams
should
always
have
it
obvious
where
their
weight
is
resting.
Ideally
the
weight
of
any
ceiling
timbers
can
be
seen
resting
on
other
posts
or
beams.
But
sometimes
beams
run
perpendicular
to
walls
and
their
ends
simply
disappear
into
the
wall.
The
problem,
in
addition
to
not
really
seeing
what
supports
it,
is
that
it
is
aesthetically
abrupt.
To
remedy
this
it
needs
something
extra,
a
transition
piece
where
the
beam
meets
the
wall.
Corbels
under
the
beams
is
one
good
solution.
Remember,
a
big
important
beam
should
not
just
end
without
some
fanfare.
Likewise,
beams
that
terminate
into
the
wall
directly
above
doors
and
windows
often
appear
inadequately
supported
and
structurally
unsound
(even
if
they
are
not).
You
should
always
be
able
to
see
what
is
holding
it
up.
This
is
a
good
situation
to
use
visible
“Perimeter
Beams”
(217).
Another
aspect
of
this
pattern
is
the
“No
Hidden
Fasteners”
rule.
Do
not
try
to
hide
the
mechanisms
that
hold
things
together.
Let
them
show,
they
only
add
additional
depth
and
detail.
For
timeless
appearance
try
to
avoid
using
modern-‐looking
Phillips
and
hex-‐head
screws.
It
is
better
to
use
old
flat-‐slotted
screws
and
square-‐
head
nuts
and
bolts,
or
better
yet
wood
pegs.
Try
to
always
make
the
structural
components
of
the
house
be
visible
so
you
can
see
what
holds
everything
up.
At
smaller
scales,
you
should
be
able
to
see
what
holds
objects
together.
Do
not
try
to
hide
the
mechanisms
that
hold
things
together.
Let
them
show.
259
Mock-‐Ups
are
Essential
“Built-‐in
Seats”
(202)
includes
this
pattern
in
regards
to
seating,
but
it
is
more
universal
than
just
that.
The
Introduction
section
to
section
to
Construction
patterns
(205-‐253)
also
brings
up
the
topic,
but
does
not
make
it
a
pattern
in
its
own
right.
“Gradual
Stiffening”
(208)
and
“Columns
at
the
Corners”
(212)
also
touch
upon
this
topic.
“Natural
Doors
and
Windows”
(221)
states
it
quite
elegantly,
but
in
a
limited
context.
Nobody
knows
in
advance
the
perfect
height
of
a
particular
windowsill
or
the
best
location
for
the
door.
Every
building
and
room
is
different,
and
there
are
no
magic
formulas
to
calculate
such
things.
Our
challenge
is
to
find
the
very
best
locations,
proportions,
and
sizes
for
the
things
we
are
building.
The
way
we
find
these
answers
is
by
search
and
discovery.
We
build
mock-‐ups,
or
temporary
facsimiles
of
the
objects
we
intend
to
build.
Then
by
trial
and
error
you
make
adjustments
until
you
have
found
your
answer.
Mock–ups
need
only
be
crude
approximations,
just
enough
to
help
us
judge.
You
might
mock-‐up
a
future
window
location
with
scrap
lumber,
or
cabinetry
with
cardboard
boxes.
But
this
rule
goes
way
beyond
just
doors
and
windows.
Before
you
commit
to
anything,
first
check
to
see
if
it
really
is
the
best
size
or
location.
If
you
have
the
luxury
of
time,
leave
the
mock-‐up
in
place
for
as
many
hours
or
days
as
possible.
Periodically,
tweak
the
design
a
bit
by
moving
things
or
changing
sizes.
Once
you
have
given
enough
observation
and
thought
to
an
issue
you
become
acutely
sensitive
to
subtle
changes.
It
is
surprising
how
much
difference
even
a
few
inches
can
make
in
a
door
or
window.
In
the
end
you
will
know
when
you
have
it
right
because
you
can
see
it
with
your
own
eyes.
At
each
iteration
take
a
step
back
and
view
the
mock-‐up
from
other
angles
or
directions.
It
might
look
good
from
one
vantage
point
but
have
problems
from
another.
Sometimes
we
are
hunting
for
the
best
compromise
between
two
competing
interests.
Always
consider
the
original
building
plans
to
be
“tentative
at
best”.
Most
of
it
should
allow
for
adjustments
as
you
go
along.
Try
to
defer
final
design
decisions
until
you
are
in
a
position
to
build
mock-‐ups
of
your
proposed
solutions.
Many
decisions
that
once
seemed
arbitrary
or
without
certainty
will
finally
become
obvious
once
you
can
see
and
touch
it.
260
Walls
Don’t
Have
To
Be
Flat
This
pattern
follows
from
“Thick
Walls”
(197),
“Good
Materials”
(207),
and
“Soft
Inside
Walls”
(235)
Modern
drywall,
or
gypsum
board
has
been
used
on
nearly
every
professionally
built
modern
home
for
the
last
50
years.
It
goes
up
fast
and
can
be
made
perfectly
flat
and
smooth.
But
therein
lies
the
problem,
because
by
being
flat
and
featureless
it
is
devoid
of
any
warmth,
depth,
or
character.
Walls
do
not
have
to
be
flat,
though
they
do
want
to
be
mostly
flat.
And
they
want
to
be
smooth
and
pleasant
to
the
touch.
There
is
just
no
need
for
machine-‐made
precision.
Many
old
world
building
techniques
such
as
stone,
cob,
adobe,
and
wood
naturally
give
us
walls
with
an
imperfect
richness
that
adds
to
the
beauty
of
a
house.
There
is
another
kind
of
flatness
to
consider.
Exterior
walls
of
earthen
materials
look
more
solid
when
they
are
thicker
at
the
bottom.
With
a
wide
base,
such
walls
form
a
natural
“Connection
to
the
Earth”(168).
Walls
like
this
appear
more
rooted
and
substantial
and
are
even
said
to
appear
tranquil.
Walls
do
not
have
to
be
flat,
nor
do
they
need
to
be
perfectly
straight
and
true.
But
speak
with
a
whisper.
Even
subtle
variations
can
provide
incredible
visual
impact.
Try
give
all
your
walls
depth
and
character
by
allowing
them
to
be
imperfect.
261
Highlight
The
Differences
This
pattern
is
derivative
of
“Half
Inch
Trim”
(240),
“Good
Materials”
(207),
and
“Ornament”
(249).
There
seems
to
be
a
modern
fascination
with
making
things
perfect.
We
are
told
that
it
is
better
if
all
the
edges
line
up,
and
that
dissimilar
materials
should
be
made
to
meet
flush.
But
this
is
not
the
way
of
timeless
construction.
The
more
precisely
something
is
built,
the
more
glaringly
obvious
become
its
flaws.
Any
time
two
surfaces,
objects,
or
materials
come
together
and
meet
you
have
to
deal
with
the
connection
somehow.
The
modern
approach
would
be
to
make
the
junction
as
narrow
and
minimal
as
possible,
as
if
to
hide
the
transition.
But
the
timeless
approach
would
be
to
highlight
and
draw
attention,
to
make
something
special
of
the
place.
Connections
are
the
best
place
to
emphasize
and
augment
with
trim,
finer
detailing,
and
decorations.
(see
“Ornament”
(249)
Not
this…
but
this.
The
beauty
is
in
the
imperfections
and
the
layer
upon
layer
of
details.
Highlight,
or
accentuate
the
differences
between
materials.
Hand
crafted
details
are
essential
ingredients
for
timeless
beauty.
Without
such
details,
often
the
connections
between
materials
is
too
abrupt
and
lacks
sufficient
transition
between
them.
A
good
example
is
crown
molding,
which
always
adds
to
a
room.
That
is
because
the
molding
fills
a
void.
It
creates
a
rich
transition
between
the
walls
and
the
ceiling,
and
provides
an
additional
level
of
detail.
Highlight
the
differences.
Instead
of
hiding
connections,
make
something
special
of
them.
When
two
surfaces
or
structures
meet,
do
not
try
to
have
everything
line-‐up
and
be
flush.
Have
adjoining
materials
meet
with
a
slight
offset.
An
offset
small
enough
to
hardly
be
noticed,
but
large
enough
that
it
is
clearly
intentional.
262
The
Stone
Arch
Not
this…
but
this.
This
pattern
derives
from
the
new
patterns
“Nothing
Phony”(255)
and
“See
How
It
Is
Built”
(258).
With
the
advent
of
modern
steel,
we
are
now
able
to
make
stone
and
brickwork
defy
gravity.
Specifically,
the
use
of
steel
lintels
allows
stone
and
brick
to
span
large
openings
without
requiring
an
arch.
This
ignores
2,000
years
of
masonry
tradition.
Heavy
stones
with
nothing
obviously
holding
them
up
and
spanning
a
wide
opening
simply
look
like
they
should
fall
down.
Stone
arches
were
surely
built
back
in
antiquity,
but
it
was
the
Romans
who
perfected
the
arch.
Older
ancient
Greek
architecture,
while
superb,
did
not
utilize
the
arch.
The
size
of
openings
was
limited
by
the
size
of
big
stones
that
formed
the
lintel.
So
they
required
lots
of
closely
spaced
columns.
To
their
credit,
this
might
be
why
the
Greeks
perfected
the
subtle
shape
of
their
exquisite
tapered
columns.
In
any
stone
or
brickwork,
strive
to
have
all
openings
spanned
with
real
self-‐
supporting
arches.
If
you
have
to
resort
to
structural
steel
to
hold
it
up,
then
it
is
little
more
than
a
facade.
263
Old
World
Metals
“Good
Materials”
(207)
instructs
us
to
select
materials
that
are
easy
to
work
on
site
and
modifiable
with
inexpensive
tools.
Nothing
shouts
“Modern”
like
stainless
steel.
There
are
two
telltale
characteristic
where,
at
a
glance,
it
is
easy
to
judge
the
age
of
a
home.
One
is
in
the
size
of
the
window
panes
(see
“Small
Panes”
(239),
and
the
other
is
in
the
visible
metal
fixtures
and
appliances.
If
you
hope
to
build
a
timeless
house
you
cannot
ignore
either
of
these
patterns.
Old
World
metals
are
soft
and
include
Brass,
Copper,
Bronze,
and
Iron.
They
have
been
around
since,
well
the
Bronze
Age.
These
metals
take
on
a
wonderful
patina
over
time
and
they
are
easily
cut
and
shaped
with
hand
tools.
Modern,
or
“Hard”
metals,
include
Chrome,
Galvanized
,
Aluminum
and
Stainless
Steel.
The
difference
between
Hard
and
Soft
types
of
metals
is
not
so
much
about
the
actual
hardness
or
softness,
but
about
the
color,
workability,
and
patina.
Modern
metals
are
basically
colorless
and
look
cold.
They
do
not
acquire
a
rich
patina
over
time.
If
you
must
use
steel
then
make
it
dark,
like
hand
forged
or
cast
iron.
Paint
it
black
if
you
have
to.
Examples
of
interior
uses
of
metals
that
should
follow
this
pattern
include:
light
fixtures,
electrical
outlet
and
switch
covers,
sinks
and
plumbing
fixtures,
towel
bars,
coat
hooks,
kitchen
appliances,
fans
and
vent
hoods,
window
frames,
door
knobs,
hinges,
locks
and
latches.
If
you
are
wanting
to
build
a
timeless
house,
pay
particular
attention
to
your
choices
of
metals.
Try
to
use
only
Old
World
Metals
for
all
exposed
metal
parts
and
fixtures.
It
makes
a
striking
difference
in
the
visible
age
of
a
place.
264
Three
Textures
in
Every
Space
See
“Tapestry
of
Light
and
Dark”
(135)
“Good
Materials”
(207),
and
“Half
Inch
Trim”
(240).
With
earthen
materials,
it
is
possible
to
build
nearly
everything
with
that
one
material:
earthen
walls,
floors,
ceilings,
doorways,
window
frames,
bookshelves,
even
the
furniture
itself;
a
single
color
and
texture
covering
everything.
But
it
is
hard
to
make
something
truly
fine
that
way.
Some
may
be
drawn
to
the
ultimate
simplicity
of
only
using
only
one
material.
Arguably
it
is
probably
easier,
cheaper,
and
faster
construction
than
trying
to
incorporate
a
variety
of
materials.
However,
exceptional
rooms
develop
character
from
weaving
together
multiple
textures.
They
are
never
monochromatic.
Variety
is
the
spice
of
life.
You
need
both
dark
and
light.
Both
hard
and
soft
materials.
Some
areas
smooth
and
others
rough.
Look
closely
at
the
photo
of
the
stained
glass
bathroom
window
up
above.
There
are
multiple
textures
visible.
What
happens
if
you
take
those
away?
Imagine
it
without
the
polished
white
marble
windowsill,
or
the
hand
hammered
brass
hardware.
Now
picture
what
it
would
look
like
without
the
wood
window
frame.
None
of
those
features
are
strictly
“necessary”
to
make
a
window,
but
each
adds
a
lot
to
the
beauty
and
charm.
A
concept
from
the
world
of
art
says
that
whenever
you
have
two
broad
sections
of
color
meet
you
should
always
have
a
thin
bit
of
a
3rd
color
separating
them
and
highlighting
their
difference.
This
is
also
good
advice
for
textures.
Try
to
incorporate
at
least
three
different
textures
in
every
space.
Charm
comes
by
weaving
different
materials
together.
Stone,
plaster,
and
wood
make
a
great
trio,
but
there
are
many
possibilities.
265
Never
Let
Them
Tell
You
It
Cannot
Be
Done
Modern
construction
methods
and
materials
have
become
standardized.
Everybody
sells
the
same
materials
and
builds
the
same
way.
Tradespeople
know
these
methods
well
and
are
resistant
to
alternative
techniques,
often
saying
“It
can’t
be
done”.
Timeless
construction
means
usually
NOT
building
things
the
modern
way.
It
means
hand-‐building
things
to
fit
perfectly
the
spaces
they
were
designed
for.
Do
not
compromise
your
designs
because
some
construction
expert
tells
you
“it’s
not
how
it’s
done”.
If
you
are
getting
design
or
construction
assistance,
especially
paying
for
the
labor
of
skilled
tradespeople,
you
need
to
be
assertive
of
your
goals.
Simply
put,
it
is
your
house
and
you
want
it
built
the
way
you
want
it
built.
Timeless
construction
purposefully
avoids
many
standard
building
practices.
It
uses
natural
materials,
often
including
recycled
wood,
doors,
and
windows.
Such
ad-‐
hoc
construction
requires
the
ability
to
improvise,
to
think
hard
and
find
ways
to
make
things
fit.
If
your
hired
help
is
incapable
of
adapting
to
such
work
then
perhaps
it
is
time
to
find
some
new
help.
If
you
hope
to
build
your
own
home,
there
will
be
forces
that
try
to
thwart
you.
However
you
propose
to
build
this
house,
there
will
be
naysayers.
Whenever
anyone
says
“It
can’t
be
done”
–
Ignore
Them.
© 2013 Gary Zuker