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 A CompIeIe listing of

SINGER EDUCATIONAL PUBLICATIONS

For Home Economics Classes

may be obtained

by writing to

SINGER SEWING MACHINE COMPANY

Educational Depaflment.

Singer Building,

149 Broadway

New York 6, N. Y.
 S l N G E R*
Student's Manual
OF

Machine Sewing

«w

SPECIALLY PREPARED
FOR STUDENTS
IN SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES

‘ PUBLISHED DY
”NOR! SEWING MACHINE COMPANY
EDUCATIONAL DEPARTMENI
SINGER lUlLDING, 149 BROADWAY, NEW YORK

TH! SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY

‘A Ivodcmorl of THE SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY E

Form 1689—R0viud (658) Prim-d In U.S.A.

 PREFACE

One aim in education is to equip the scholar for his or her future
career. To the girl interested in Household Economics the sewing ma-
chine offers wonderful possibilities. This booklet is to instruct her
regarding the care and operation of the Family Sewing Machine
to obtain best results.

A large part of the family income is usually spent by the woman, and
her knowledge of how to plan and make proper clothing for the family
has a great influence on the purchasing power of the income. By making
garments at home it is possible to provide wearing apparel for herself
and for those for whom she must provide, at a cost that will not only be
in keeping with her purse but it will give satisfaction and pleasure to
the wearer.

Success in home sewing depends greatly on the ability to use to the

fullest extent the modern sewing machine and its various attachments.
The cost of material for making a garment is usually one-half to one-
third the amount asked for a similar one ready made. The styles of
today can easily be followed and, with the help of charts that are fur-
nished with many of the patterns, the cutting is very simple. The modem
electric sewing machine takes away all the labor of stitching. By using
the attachments furnished with it, fashion touches may very quickly be
added without previous basting or preparation.

When one considers that the stitching for a garment may be done
very quickly and entirely without effort on the electric machine, is it any
wonder the woman of today is becoming more and more interested in
home sewing?

It is our hope that the instructions contained in this booklet will enable
you to learn the proper care and operation of your sewing machine,
so that you can obtain the greatest benefit from its use.

SlNGER SEWING MACHINE COMPANY

Copyright @ l957 by The Singer Manufacturing Company

 GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE CARE AND OPERATION
OF FAMILY SEWING MACHINES

The Principal Parts of lock-Stitch Sewing Machines

and Their Uses

THREAD GUIDE SPOOL PIN HAND

“— WHEEL

\
_

PRESSER BAR

FACF PLATE

PRESSER
BAR lll’TER '

' ELECTRlC
CORD
{UZCTRIC
cunecnon
‘

PRESSER
.

,
mocx
STITCH
REGULATOR

NUMBER
PLAN;

BED SLID‘: THROAT PLATE

Fig, 1. Principal Parts of the Head

Clan 66 Machine;

Head—tho complete sewing machine, without cabinet or stand, as

shown in Fig. l.
Arm—the curved part of the head containing the mechanism for
driving the needle and handling the upper thread.
Spool Pin~spindle on which spool rests.
Bed—the fiat portion of the head, under which is mounted the
shuttle, feed and lower thread-handling mechanism.
Hand Wheel—the wheel at the right of the head driven by the
belt.
Bobbin Winder—the mechanism for automatically winding bobbins.
Stitch Regulator—the part which controls the stroke of the feed dog,
thereby regulating the length of the stitch.
Upper Tension—the means for controlling the delivery of the upper
thread from the spool.
Thread Take-up~the mechanism which pulls up the slack in the
thread and locks the stitch.
Thread Guide--supports the thread in its passage from the spool
to the tension disc.
Needle Bar—the vertical bar to which the needle is attached and
which moves the needle with the upper thread down
through the fabric at each stitch.
Presser Bar—the vertical bar to which the presser foot is attached.
This bar passes through a coil spring which exerts a pressure
on the bar and holds the fabric down against the feed dog
when sewing. The presser bar and foot may be raised by
means of the presser bar lifter.
Face Plate—the vertical plate on the left of the arm which may be
removed to give access to the needle bar, presser bar and
take-up.
Throat Plate—the plate in the bed directly under the needle through
which the needle passes and through which the feed dog
proiects upward.
Feed Dog—the toothed part which proiects upward through slots
in the throat plate, moving the fabric at each stitch. The
stroke of the feed dog is controlled by the stitch regulator
to give the desired length of stitch.
Bed Slide—the flat plate at the left of the bed which may be opened
to give access to the shuttle or bobbin case and other parts
of the lower stitch-forming mechanism.
Bobbin—the metal spool on which thread is wound to furnish the
lower or under thread supply.
Shuttle or Bobbin Case-the container in which the bobbin is placed
and around which the loop of the needle thread is passed to
form the lock stitch.
Rotary or Oscillating Hook—the part which enters a loop of needle
thread and carries it around the bobbin case to form the
lock stitch. In the long bobbin machine (SINGER No. 127)
this function is performed by the shuttle, which also acts as
a bobbin case.
lower Tension—the spring on the shuttle or bobbin case which con-
trols the delivery of thread from the bobbin.
Motor—the electric motor drives the machine by means of a belt.
It is attached by a single screw to the back of the arm.
Sewing Light—the electric lamp and reflector which throws its rays
on the bed of the machine.
Three-Pin Terminal—the plug and socket arrangement which con-
nects the electric supply cord to the motor, light and con-
troller.
The 66 Class Machine. the principal parts of which are illustrated
and described in the foregoing, is used extensively in schools and
colleges throughout the country. However, newer types of lock
stitch electric machines, that sew backward as well as forward, are
now being sold to schools, and some of their features (different
from those described above for the 66 Class Machine) are shown
on page 5. The machine illustrated is the 15-91, while the deluxe
rotary 201-2 Machine also possesses all the features mentioned.
 SPECIAL FEATURES OF THE 15-91 AND
201-2 MACHINES

GEAR DRIVE MOTOR‘

_____._.._...« -
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' CONTROLIMR

arcuwoa
rmspoomum
iiltSIOtI ma wmo-
IIIG BOBBIN WHILE
MACHINE IS SEWING

Flg. 2

Bobbin Winder—The extra spool pin and tension on the bed of the
machine makes it possible to wind bobbins separately while
the machine is in motion.
Stitch Regulating Thumb Screw—tor controlling the space through
which the Direction Control Lever is to move according to
the number of stitches for which it is set on the stitch in-
dicator.
Direction Control lever—for reversing the direction of the feed and
regulating the length of the stitch. When the lever is in the
lower part of the slot, the machine will stitch in a forward
direction. For reverse stitching, the lever is raised to its high-
est point.
Upper Tension lndicator—easin-read graduations denote different
degrees of tension that can be produced. By noting the posi-
tion of the indicator, the correct tension for a particular
grade of work may readily be reproduced.
Feed lowering Device -By loosening the thumb screw in the lower
end of the feed lifting crank, the feed dog will be lowered
below the throat plate so that it cannot interfere with the
free movement of the work when darning or embroidering.
For regular sewing, the feed may be restored to normal
Operation by firmly tightening the screw.
Motor~This motor is gear-driven, a spiral pinion of the motor mesh-
ing with a spiral gear on the hand wheel hub of the
sewing machine, to produce a positive silent drive of the
sewing mechanism.
 Formation of the lock Stitch
The lock stitch made by sewing machines consists of an upper
or needle thread and an under or bobbin thread locked together
in the material which is being stitched, the lock being formed by
passing the upper around the lower thread and tightening them
together in the middle of the fabric.
We “2 TY-Tf'Tf'"
L2? 155le zwlfi ,.

Fig. 3. Formation of the lock Stitch

When a stitch has been completed and before each succeed-
ing stitch is started, the fabric being stitched is carried from the
needle by the feeding mechanism and upon the length of its move-
ment depends the length of the stitch.
The presser foot holds down the fabric, prevents it from rising
with the needle and holds it in contact with the feed dog while the
feeding takes place.
Wind the Bobbins Evenly
A bobbin must be wound evenly to work pr0perly in the ma-
chine. Great care should be taken in winding bobbins to have the
thread placed on the bobbin smoothly and evenly, and the bobbin
should never be wound so fully that it is tight in the bobbin case
or shuttle. See Fig. 4. A correctly wound bobbin will insure a smooth-
- . running thread from the bobbin case and
will prevent an uneven stitch which may
occur if the thread is placed on the
bobbin unevenly.
If, on bobbin winders of the type
shown in Fig. 6, the thread winds to one
' " side of the bobbin, call the nearest
"9- ‘~ l'l' “hm" SINGER Shop and an adiuster will be sent
Incorrectly Wound
Rig," Bobbin to correct the trouble.
Correctly Wound Always make it a point to have a suf-
~iicient quantity of bobbins on hand so
that it is unnecessary to wind one color
of thread on a partly wound bobbin of
another color. Bobbins wound in this man-
ner are often uneven, and the ends of
the threads become tangled, causing con-
siderable trouble in the bobbin case.
On Machines which have bobbin
winder thread guide A, Fig. 5 fastened to
bed of machine, bobbin winder is some-
what different. If thread does not wind
evenly on bobbins of these machines,
loosen screw which holds thread guide A,
. Fig. 5 in position and slide guide to the
“9 5_ Bob“, Winder Adiw'mnt right or left as may be required, then
on Hot Machine tighten screw.
6
 Increasing the Pressure on the Bobbin Winder

If the pressure of the rubber ring against the hub of the hand
wheel is not sufficient to wind the bobbin, loosen the adiusting
screw (see Fig. 6) and press the bobbin winder lightly until the
rubber ring is in contact with the hub of the hand wheel, then
tighten the screw. This type of bobbin winder is found on Class 66
(on most varieties), 99, ”5 and 1530 Machines.

If the rubber ring becomes

worn or if oil has been allowed
to come in contact with the
rubber, the ring will not have
the proper contact with the
wheel and will slip when at-
tempting to wind a bobbin. A
worn or oily ring should be re-
placed.

The bobbin winder on most

of the SINGER family machines
has an automatic stop which re-
Fig. 6. Adiusling Pressure on
leases the winder from the hand Bobbin Winder
wheel when the bobbin has been
fully wound.

On machines having the type of bobbin winder shown in

Fig. 7, if the pressure of the bobbin winder pulley against the hub
of the hand wheel is insufficient
for winding the bobbin, press down
the bobbin winder until the latch
A, Fig. 7 drops down and holds it,
then loosen the adiusting screw
F, Fig. 7. With the forefinger, push
back the upper end of the slotted
plate E as far as it will go, as
shown in Fig. 7, and at the same
time press the bobbin winder pul-
ley against the hub of the hand . .

wheel, then tighten the adiusting F'ggggz'wflfi: °l

screw F.
 Importance of Correct Needle and Thread

A perfect stitch can be obtained only when the thread is selected

to suit the fabric which is to be stitched and the needle is the correct
size for the thread. If the needle is too fine for the thread and the
material to be sewn, it is quite likely to break when crossing a
seam. If a large needle is used on fine material, the perforations
made by the needle will show on the finished work. A table of
correct needles for the various sizes and types of thread is given on
page 63 of this book as well as in the instruction book for each
machine. This table should be followed carefully when ordering
needles and when changing them for various classes of work.
Note: For best results, use needles sold by Singer Sewing Machine
Company.

Testing a Needle
An important essential for good work is that the needle be per-
fectly straight.
A straight needle can be determined by placing the flat side of
the needle on the slide plate of
the machine or any other per-
fectly flat solid surface. Hold the
needle flat against the plate and
hold the plate up to the light as
shown in Fig. 8. A straight
needle will show an even
amount of light under it and the
point will be in line with the
shank, while the point of a
Fig. 3. Testing a Needle for crooked or bent needle will be
Straightneu closer to or further from the
plate.

You will note from Fig. 9 that the

side of the needle with the flat on
the shank has a short groove at the
eye, while the other side has a
long groove. On all machines, the
thread must lie in this long groove
when sewing. If the needle is not

placed correctly in the machine, it

will not sew.
Fig. 9. Flat and Grooved
Sides of Needle (Enlarged)
 To Set the Needle Correctly
Turn the hand wheel over toward you until needle bar rises
to its highest point. loosen thumb screw of needle clamp and re-
move the old needle from machine. Place new needle in needle
clamp, making sure that flat side of needle faces in the correct
direction, which can be determined as follows:

NEEDLE

THREAD <— FLAT FLAT —> EAD

SIDE SIDE THR
RIGHT

RIGHT
£21393 £21394

Fig. 10 Fig. 11

On all machines having the On all machines having the

needle bar slot at the left, as needle bar slot at the right, as
shown in Fig. 10, the flat side of shown in Fig. 11, the flat side of
needle must face the right and needle must face the left and
needle must be threaded from needle must be threaded from
left to right (from long groove right to left (from long groove
side). This applies to Machines side). This applies to Machines
15-30, 15-86, 15-87, 15-96. 15-88, 15-89, 15-90, 15-91, 201,
1598, 66, 99, 101, 127 and 128. 221 and 3011‘.
The Necessity for Proper Tensions
The tensions on the sewing machine must be adjusted to suit
various fabrics. There are two tensions, the upper and the lower.
The upper tension controls the needle thread, while the lower ten-
sion controls the thread from the shuttle or bobbin case,
The definition of the word tension as given in the dictionary is:
”stress by pulling.” It is the pulling together of the threads that
completes a stitch on the sewing machine. After the needle thread
has passed around the bobbin case, the slack thread must be taken
up and some tension placed on both upper and lower threads as
they are drawn into the material and locked together.
the needle clamp on Machine 301 will not permit needle to be inserted incorrectly.

9
 If both threads are under
proper tension, the lack occurs
in center of material being sewn
Fig. I2. Beth Tensions Correct
and a perfect stitch is formed as
in Fig. 12.
If tension on needle thread is
~ > 4: w-e—frwem.
_—-'<,- too tight, or if that on bobbin
“ELEMELELBN—‘Er— lg; thread is too loose, needle thread
‘ “ will lie along upper surface of
"e 13-179“ Upper Tendon material as illustrated in Fig. 13.
If tension on bobbin thread is
q A too tight, or if that on needle
flfifi.ifiuv‘fl.'7fitlfllfi
_7_ _ .

thread is too lease, bobbin

“-‘—"“*‘ 1‘“ "‘”‘- W- ~ʼ.ʼ::
‘ thread will lie straight along
Fig. 14. Tight lower Tension under side of material as shown
in Fig. 14.
Fine materials require a light tension, while heavy materials
require more tension to produce a perfect stitch.
If too tight a tension is used on fine material, the threads may
break when material is pressed flat. A bias seam will pucker if ten»
sion is tight. if tension on a flat seam is too loose, there is danger of
thread being pulled out. A long stitch and a loose tension are often
used when basting, so that stitches may easily be pulled from
material.

How to Adiust the Tensions

1. Turn hand wheel until take-up lever is at its highest position.
2. Pass upper thread between tension discs into thread take-up
spring and through hole in take-up lever.
3. lower presser bar, as needle thread tension is released when
presser bar is raised.
4. Turn tension thumb nut B, Fig. 15
counter-clockwise until there is no tension
on thread.
5. Draw sufficient thread from spool
to provide a slack thread between spool
and tension so as to remove weight of
spool from thread while tension is being
adiusted.
6. Turn tension thumb nut B, Fig. 15 ‘ mm
clockwise to tighten tension while lightly Fi 15. Adiutt‘n
.

drawing thread through take-up lever. m3 upp" 1.0.23.

until take‘up spring is lifted and thread
can be held in a straight line between take-up lever and tension
discs without taking thread through tension discs.
7. Complete threading of machine for sowing.
 After upper tension is
adjusted, bobbin thread
tension spring should
be adiusted for about
some tension, comparing
tensions as shown in
Fig. 16.
Bobbin thread tension
is adjusted by turning
small screw near center
Fig. 16. Testing Upper and lower
of spring under which
Tensions Together
thread passes on long
shuttle or round bobbin case. With a small screwdriver, turn screw
to right to tighten or to left to loosen tension. Then a few stitches
should be taken in a practice piece of material to see if stitch is
locked in center of material. If bobbin thread shows on top, Fig. 13,
under tension is too loose. If bobbin thread shows on bottom, Fig. 14,
under tension is too tight.
With under thread tension properly adiusted, a variety of dif-
ferent sizes of needle threads can be used without disturbing tension
on under thread, as the required change in tension to suit ma-
terial being sewn can be made by adiusting tension on upper
thread only.
Machines 15-88 to 15-9], 66-16, 201, 221 and 301 have gradu-
ated scales D, Fig. ‘IS so that, when correct tension is found for a
particular kind of work, it is only necessary to note number on scale
to obtain some tension at any time.
Preparing to Sew
Pull sufficient thread through
needle to start sewing, hold end
of thread in left hand and, with
right, turn hand wheel over un-
til needle goes down and up
again and under thread is
pulled up through needle hole
in throat plate. See Fig. 17. ,, r .

lay bo'h lhreads boc“ under fig. I7. Pulling up Under Thread
presser foot diagonally across
feed as shown in Fig. 18, to the right or left
depending upon which side of needle the
material is to be located, so that when
presser foot is lowered, the threads will be
firmly held between feed and presser foot.
Note: On some classes of family sewing ma-
chines, throat plate has distinct markings,
as shown in Fig. 18, which are to guide
- 3 - edges of seams and hems. These markings.
Hg' 12; ?;7?‘§2J3,:°”'°" at 1/8" intervals from 1/4" to 3/4” in dis-
tance from right of needle, assist in guiding fabric uniformly. Cross-
i'l
lines on throat plate indicate pivot point of needle when turning
square corners.
Edge of garment to be stitched should be placed iust far enough
under presser foot so that first stitch may be taken in material. Never
place material so far in front of
needle that first stitch will not be
taken in material, as this may
cause thread to become caught
in bobbin case and material may
not feed under foot properly un-
less edge has been caught with
needle. Position needle into fab-
ric where first stitch is to fall.
Holding thread ends, lower
presser foot, bringing tension
into operation. This prevents
thread from being caught in [Hi-YD

bobbin case. See Fig. 19 for

Fig. l9. Beginning a Scam
proper starting of material under
presser foot.
Finishing a Seam
When finishing a seam, never sew beyond end of material. Stop
machine by placing hand on hand wheel shortly before end of seam
is reached. This will prevent thread from becoming caught in bob-
bin case. See Fig. 20.
Do not attempt to release material from machine until take-up
lever is at its highest point. See T, Fig. 27. When take-up is in this
position and presser foot is raised, the tension is released.
Always take material from
rr '—'
machine by pulling it straight
back or away from you. This will
prevent needle from becoming
bent or broken.
Always have a sufficient
length of thread to prevent its
pulling through needle when you
start to sew next seam. Pull ma‘
terial back from you far enough
to allow upper and lower Fig.20.iinishinga$eom
threads to enter thread cutter
A, Fig. 17. Hold thread with both hands and cut with a quick down-
ward motion.
Hints for Sewing Various Seams
Always keep material to the left of presser foot, allowing seam
to extend to the right. This helps to prevent machine oil from soiling
goods and allows greater freedom of feeding than when garment
is allowed to pass under arm of machine.
 ln stitching a skirt, all patterns are made so that the seams must
be stitched from the top down. This is true of every seam in a
garment. In stitching a blouse, the shoulder seams are stitched
from the neck down, and the under-arm and sleeve seams are
stitched from the armhole down. This is also true when sewing bias
seams on a skirt. It should be stitched from the waist line down in
order that the pattern will come together correctly, However, there
are exceptions. For example when stitching pile fabrics such as
velveteen and corduroy, always stitch with the pile, or from lower
edge of skirt to waistline, etc.
When sewing a bias edge to a straight edge, place the straight
edge against the feed. Hold the bias edge toward you in order to
adiust and ease the fullness in to prevent its stretching.

The Seam Guide

The seam guide is a help in straight

stitching. The guide is fastened to the
machine by means of the thumb screw,
as shown in Fig. 2]. It can be adiusted
to various distances from the needle as
desired.
The first practice with the machine
after understanding the threading, ten-
sions, etc., is straight stitching. At first,
use strips of paper without thread and
then saw on muslin, stitching several
rows close together. Always use a ”9.” 5.0,“ GM.
double piece of material when prac- '
ticing stitching.

Regulating the length of Stitch

The length of stitch should be regulated to suit the thread and

material that is to be used. In other words, after giving all other
conditions careful attention, do not spoil your sewing by using a
stitch that is too long and coarse.

When stitching fine material, use a fine needle, fine thread and
a short stitch. Heavy material requires a coarse needle and thread
and a longer stitch.
Between I2 to 15 stitches to the inch makes a desirable stitch
for ordinary sewing. To count the stitches, with machines on which
the stitch length is not shown, sew on a double thickness of muslin,
measure off one inch with a ruler and count the stitches.
I3
 The stitch on some of the
early types of SINGER family
machines is regulated by
turning screw S, Fig. 22, to
the right to lengthen the stitch
and to the left to shorten it.
The stitch on the 15-30
and
115 models is regulated by
screw S, Fig. 23, in a slot
on
the arm near the bobbin
winder. To lengthen the stitch,
_
' leasen the screw and move
it
r.g;:$;$:;<h downward. To
' _

shorten the l'g;02j;3:;‘h

Screw on SINGER stitch, move the screw UP- Screw on SINGER
66-4, 99.13. 127
andl28 Machines wcrd' When the deSlred 15X10 and us
Machines
length of stitch is obtained,
tighten the screw.

Regulating the length of Stitch

on
Reverse Feeding Machines
Many of the later types of SINGER
with a reverse feeding mechanism
family machines are fitted
by means of which the machines
stitch in a reverse direction
as readily as they do
direction. in a forward

Machines 15-88 to 15
on these machines, loose
to the bottom of the slo
until its upper side is in line with
the num-
ber of the desired length of
stitch. Now
move the thumb screw A until
the stitch
regulating plate touches the lever
B, then
firmly tighten the thumb screw.
The ma-
chine will then make the indicated
number
of stitches to the inch in either a forward
or
reverse direction, depending on
whether
the lever B is placed at its lowest
or highest
position.
To feed the material in reverse
direction
with the same length of stitch,
raise the
stitch regulating lever B as
high as it will
go. The direction of feed can
be reversed
any point of a seam. Without removmg at {ie- 24- it"s; zeeulggns
work from the machine. the 13”; Tnd 201! Mimn:
14
 Machine 221-1. To change the length of
stitch, turn the thumb nut B, Fig. 25 away from
the stitch indicator plate A as far as it will go.
Then move the stitch regulator lever C until it
is in line with the number designating the de-
sired length of stitch and turn the thumb nut B
inward until it touches the indicator plate. The
machine will then make the indicated number of
stitches to the inch in either a forward or reverse
direction, depending upon whether the lever C
is at its lowest or highest position.

To feed the material in reverse direction,

raise the stitch regulating lever C as high as it
will go. The direction of the feed can be reversed .

In“
_

Stitch Regulating
. .
at any potnt tn a seam Without removmg the
. .
on 22“
work from the machine. Machine

Machine 30]. To change the length of

stitch, turn the thumb screw on the stitch
regulator lever Y, Fig. 26 away from the
stitch indicator plate X as far as necessary.
Then move the stitch regulator lever until
it is in line with the desired number of
stitches to the inch and turn the thumb
screw inward only until it touches the stitch
indicator plate, The machine will then make
the indicated number of stitches to the inch
, _ in either a forward or reverse direction,
l'gʼ sm‘h on
26'
Regulator lever depending on whether the lever Y is at its
30! Machine lowest or highest position.
To feed the material in reverse direction, raise the stitch regu~
lator lever Y as high as it will go. The direction of feed can be
reversed at any point of a seam without removing the work from
the machine.
On Machines of Classes 66 and 99, fitted with reverse feed, the
reverse feed should be used only for back tacking and not for con-
tinuous reverse feeding.
The direction of feed and length of stitch are regulated as in-
structed above for Machine 221, except that there is no thumb nut
B on the regulating lever.
Reverse Feeding on Fine Materials
Although long seams may be made in medium and heavy
materials on Machines 15-88 to 15-91, 201, 221 and 301, while
feeding toward the operator. the reverse feed should be used only
for short back tacking in thin or sheer goods. Such fine material
will tend to pucker if the reverse feed is used for more than about
1/2 inch.
15
 Adiusting the Pressure on the Presser Bar
The presser foot rests on the feed dog, hold-
ing the cloth in position while the machine is
sewing. The pressure should be regulated ac-
cording to the fabric to be stitched, heavy
enough to prevent the material from rising
with the needle and still enable the work to
feed along smoothly. A pressure that is too
heavy will cause the machine to run hard and
will leave the print of the feed on fine mate-
rials.
increase the pressure by turnlng the adiust-
ing screw, at the top of the presser bar, to the
right. lighten the pressure by turning the ad-
iusting screw to the left. See Fig. 27. The
heavier the material, the more pressure is re-
quired except with pile fabrics (corduroy and
velveteen) when a lighter pressure is advis-
fig. 27. Regulating able, Fine materials require a light pressure.
the Pressure
Cleaning and Oiling
Sewing machines require daily oiling and
cleaning if they are used continuously all day. If used moderately,
a few hours a day, oiling and cleaning once or twice a week is
sufficient. A sewing machine, like all other machinery, will not give
proper satisfaction if the working parts are allowed to become dry
or gummed with a poor grade of oil. A sewing machine that has
not received the proper care will run hard and considerable energy
is wasted by using a machine in this condition. Always remove dust,
lint, threads, etc., before oiling any part of the machine or stand,
especially in and around the shuttle race.

Oiling the Machine Head

The equipment neces-
sary for the proper
cleaning of the machine
consists of a piece of
cheese cloth, a large
screwdriver, a small
screwdriver and a stil-
etto.
Care should be taken
to use high-grade ma-
chine oil and one drop
Fig. 28. Cleaning and Oiling the Head
should be applied to
each bearing and each
point where there is any friction. it is poor economy to use oil of
doubtful quality, as it may gum on the working parts.
lo
 It is best to be safe and purchase oil from the sewing machine
manufacturer, who is interested in having it specially prepared for
sewing machines. Many household oils are not suitable for sewing
machine use.
When planning a thorough oiling, remove the upper thread.
slide plate, bobbin, bobbin case, needle and presser foot. Take out
the screws in the throat plate (the plate, A, Fig. 28, directly under
the presser foot, through which the needle passes) and remove the
throat plate. This will enable you to clean and oil the shuttle race.
On the 66 and 99 Class Machines, the oscillating hook is lubricated
by oil from a piece of red felt C, Fig. 28, which touches the top of
the hook. This felt wiper should be kept moist with oil at all times.
if ”H- ~ . ~ The face plate should also be removed
by taking out screw 8, Fig. 28 to give ac-
cess to the ailing points on the needle
bar, presser bar and thread take-up.
Put one drop of oil into each oil hole and
joint.

Release the belt from the band wheel

by turning the lever of the belt shifter.
Fig. 29, to the left while the machine is
running. To replace the belt after releas-
ing, place the feet on the treadle and
_ start the band wheel in the proper direc-
l — - tion. The belt will be thrown on the
”9- 29.11" ”‘l' Shll'" wheel automatically. Never throw the
belt off to the left side of the band wheel, as it is difficult to replace
it from this side.
After releasing the belt, turn back the head of the machine in
Order to reach the ailing points on the under side. By turning the
hand wheel slowly you will be able to observe all working parts.
Place a single drop of oil at each point, as this is sufficient to lubri-
cate the machine. After oiling all points on the under side, lower the
head into sewing position and oil each point on top of the arm.
Wipe away all surplus oil, thread up the machine and stitch on a
waste piece of material until all surplus oil that might drip onto the
goods being sewn has been worked out.
When a machine is used frequently, it is not necessary to re-
move the throat plate, slide, bobbin and bobbin case each time the
machine is oiled; but this should be done whenever a thorough
cleaning and oiling is required.
Do Not Lubricate Motor on any machine except 15-91, 15-125,
201-2 and 221-1. To lubricate these motors, see instruction book
accompanying these machines.
 Oiling the Bobbin Winder

To insure smooth running of the bobbin

winder, the ailing points should be ob- in
served and care taken to see that they are turns”
not neglected when the rest of the machine
is oiled. See Fig. 30. if the winder is to be
used immediately after oiling, do not sit in
front of it. If too much oil has been applied,
it is liable to be thrown and sail your
clothes. Do not allow oil to come in contact
with the rubber ring on the bobbin winder,
as oil softens the rubber and causes it to
slip on the hub of the hand wheel. When
this happens, the only remedy is to replace fie- 30. om” H"
"W fing- Bobbin Winder

Removing Gummed Oil

lf the machine has been idle for several weeks and runs hard,
it is probably due to gummed oil. When a machine has become
gummed, all working parts should be thoroughly oiled with
SINGER‘ Sewing Machine Oil. Thiswill loosen the old oil if not too
badly gummed. Run the machine rapidly for a few minutes and
wipe thoroughly with a piece of cheese cloth. if the machine does
not run freely after this treatment, it should be examined by a
skilled sewing machine adiuster.

COMMON CAUSES OF MACHINE TROUBLES

Causes of Upper Thread Breaking

Machine improperly threaded (see instruction book).

Tensions too tight (see page TO).
Needle bent or having blunt point (see page 8).
Thread too coarse for size of needle (see instruction book).
Needle too fine for size of thread and material to be sewn (see
chart on page 63).
Burr on needle hole in throat plate (caused by breaking needle
when pulling material from machine).
Burr on needle hole in presser foot (caused from sewing aver
pins or breaking needle).
Needle incorrectly set (see page 9).
Needle too long for machine, or not all the way up in clamp.
Take-up spring bent or broken (send for adiuster to repair).
Tension discs worn so that thread works in groove (send for
adiuster to repair).
 Causes of lower Thread Breaking
b Improper threading of bobbin case or shuttle (see instruction
ookL
Tension too tight (see page 10).
Thread wound unevenly on bobbin or bobbin wound too full
(see page 6).
Spring on bobbin case or shuttle worn to sharp edge.
Burr on under side of throat plate (sometimes caused by sewing
over pins or breaking needle).
To Avoid Breaking Needles
Do not sew heavy seams with too fine a needle.
Use proper site of needle for thread and material to be sewn
(see chart on page 63).
See that the presser foot or attachments are securely fastened
to the presser bar and that the needle does not strike the edge of
the hole or slot in the presser foot or attachment.
Do not pull the material to one side when taking it from the
machine. The needle may become bent and strike the side of the
hole in the throat plate when starting to sew (see page 8).
Do not pull material when sewing. The needle may become
bent and strike the back of the needle hole.
Do not bend the needle when pulling out the material before
cutting thread (see page 12).
Do not use a needle that is too long. It is liable to come in con-
tact with the bobbin case and break, probably spoiling the case
and requiring replacement. (Use warranted SINGER needles in
SINGER machines. See page 63).
Do not leave pins in the material after basting and do not sew
aver them with the machine.
Skipping Stitches
Needle blunt, bent or not correctly set into the needle bar.
Needle too small for the thread used.
Needle too short for the machine.
Stitches looping
Looped stitches are usually caused by an improper tension. If
the loop is on the upper side, it may be corrected by tightening the
under tension. If the leap occurs on the under side, it may usually
be corrected by tightening the upper tension (see page 10).
See that both the upper and lower threading is correct, that
the thread is of good quality and the correct size for the needle.
Test both tensions and stitch on the same material to be sewn.
looping of stitches is sometimes caused by the placing of the
bobbin in the bobbin case or shuttle so that the thread pulls from
the wrong side of the bobbin, or by the bobbin being wound too
fully. (See instruction book.)
19
 Machine Not Feeding Properly
Improper feeding is often due to the pressure being too light
for the material to be sewn (see page 16).
The feed dog may be worn smooth. This may be determined by
running the finger over the feed dog teeth. If they are not sharp,
the feed dog should be replaced with a new one by a competent
adjuster.
The stitch regulator may have been set so that the feed is en-
tirely out of action.
On machines having a feed throw-out device, the feed throw-
out thumb screw may not be tightened all the way.
Heavy accumulation of lint on top of feed dog or underneath
throat plate. Remove throat plate to clean.

Machine Working Heavily

If the machine works heavily after standing, it is probably
gummed and needs a general cleaning (see page 18).
The belt may be too tight and hence putting excessive pressure
on the bearings.
Accumulation of gum and dirt around treadle and wheel bear-
ings will cause treadle to work heavily.
Sometimes thread becomes wound around the hub of the hand
wheel and the ends of the band wheel crank. With constant
running and contact with oil the thread works in next to the bear-
ings so tightly that it makes the machine run heavily. When this
happens, remove the thread with a stilletto or other sharp instru-
ment.

Puckered Seams

Tension is too tight.

Stitch too long for material being sewn, especially on fine
material.
Wrong presser foot used. It is always best to use only the
presser foot provided for each machine, as they are, in some cases,
not interchangeable.

Noisy Treadle
if the treadle is noisy, the screWs on which it is pivoted need
tightening. Release one of the screws by backing of? the nut one or
two turns with a wrench, place a screwdriver in the slot of the
screw and advance the screw toward the treadle iust enough to
take up the slack. Tighten the nut and test the treadle. If still noisy.
repeat the operation on the other side.
If the types of sewing machine used in your school are dif-
ferent from those described in this book, refer to the instruction
book accompanying the machine for particular details.
 Threading Vibrating or long Shuttle Machine No. 127
Upper Threading Under Threading

Hold the shuttle be-

tween the thumb and
fingers of the left
hand as shawn. Place
the bobbin into the
shuttle with the
thread drawing to-
ward the right from
the side of the bob-
bin nearest you.

Place the forefing-

er of the left hand on
the end of the bobbin
and draw the thread
downward into the
long slot in the shuttle
as far as it will go.

Then draw the

thread straight up-
ward and under the
tension spring until
the bobbin begins to
unwind.
Turn the hand wheel ever toward
you until the thread take-up lever 4 is
raised to its highest point. Place the spool
of thread on the spool pin at the top of
the machine, lead the thread into the
thread guide 1 at the top of the face
plate, down, under and from right to left
between the tension discs 2, into the small
wire spring 3 at the left of the tension Drawing Up the Under Thread
discs, up and from front to back through With the left hand held the end of
the hole in the end of the thread take~up the needle thread, leaving it slack
lever 4, down into the eyelet 5 in front of from the hand to the needle, turn the
hand wheel over toward you until
the face plate, into the lower wire guide
the needle moves down and up again
6, then from left to right through the eye to its highest point, thus catching the
of the needle 7. under thread; draw up the needle
thread and the under thread will come
Draw about two inches of thread up with it through the hole in the
through the eye of the needle with which throat plate. lay both threads baclr
to start sewing. under the presser foot.
 Threading Oscillating Hook Machine No. 66
Upper Threading Under Threading

Hold the bobbin between the thumb and

forefinger of the left hand, the thread lead‘
ing on top from the right toward the left.

Raise the thread takevup lever 5 to

its highest point by turning the Place the bobbin into the bobbin can and
hand wheel over toward you. Place the draw the thread into the slot in the bobbin
spool of thread on the spool pin; lead case at the left (see 1).

the thread into the thread guide 1 at

the left and near the top of the arm,
down, under and from right to left
between the tension discs 2, into the
small wire spring 3 at the left of the
discs, under the thread regulator 4
at the loft (not through the eye of the
thread regulator 9 which is used only
let darning and embroidery). op and
from right to left through the eyelet 5
in the end of the thread take~up lever,
down into the eyelet in front of the
face plate 6, into the lower wire guide Draw the thread backward between the
7, then from left to right through the bobbin case and the tension spring until it
eye of the needle 8. Draw about two reaches the notch (see 2), then pull the thread
inches of thread through the needle with the left hand toward the right as illus-
with which to start sewing. trated, and close the slide.

22
 Threading Oscillating Shuttle Machine Nos. 15-88 to 15-91

Upper Threading Under Threading

After raising the thread take-up to its

highest position, draw the slide in the bed
of the machine to the left. Reach down
with the thumb and iorefinger of the left
hand, open the bobbin case latch A with
the forefinger and lift out the bobbin case.

While the latch remains open the be!»

bin is retained in the bobbin case. Release
the latch, turn the open end of the bobbin
case downward and the bobbin will drop
out.

<— 8
£23305

Turn the hand wheel over toward

you until the thread take~up lever 5 is After winding the bobbin. hold it be-
raised to its highest position. Place the
spool of thread on the spool pin ot the tween the thumb and forefinger of the
top of the machine and pass the thread right hand, with the thread on top, draw-
to the left through the thread guide 1 at ing from right to loft. With the left hand
the rear of the face plate, down, under held the bobbin case as illustrated, the
and from back to front between the ten-
slot in the edge being at the top, and
sion discs 2. With the right hand held the
place the bobbin into =t.
spool to prevent it from turning, and with
the left hand draw the thread up into the
take-up spring 4 until the thread enters
the retaining fork 3, then pass the thread
up from back to front through the hole
in the thread take-up lever 5, down
through the guide 6 on the face plate,
into the guide 7 on the needle damp and
from right to left through the eye of the
needle 8. Then pull the thread into the slot in
Draw about two inches of thread edge of bobbin case and back under the
through the eye o'f the needle with which tension spring into the slot at the end of
to start sewing. the tension spring.

23
 Threading Horizontal Rotary Hook Machlno No. 201

Upper Threading Under Threading

Hold the bobbin between the thumb

and forefinger of tho loft hand, tho thread
drawing on the bottom from right to loft.

Place the bobbin into the bobbin (on

Yum the hand wheel 070! toward
and draw the thread lnto the slot 1 in the
you until the throod toko-vp Iovor 5 is
bobbin care.
raised to it: highort point. Place the spool
of thread on the spool pin at the top of
tho machine and pan the thread to the
loft through tho thread guide 1, down,
undor and from right to left botweon tho
lomlon dims 2. With the right hand hold
tho lpool to prevent lt from turning, and
with tho left hand draw the thread up
into the taho~up lprlng 4 until the thread
ontors the rotaining fork 3. thon pan the
thread from right to loft through the hole
in tho Ihreod talo~up lover 5, down
through tho guide 6 on the face plate,
into the wlro guide 7 on tho noodle bor
bothing, Into the guide I on the needle
damp and from right to loft through the
eye 9 of the noedlo. Draw the thread toward you between
the bobbin ooso and the tension spring
Draw about two inch“ of thread
through the oyo of tho needle with which vntll It panel tho notch 2 in tho bobbin
to start rowing. case.
 Rotary Hook, Horizontal Axis Machine No. 301

Upper “flooding Undo! “treading

Raise noodle to its higholt point. Rain

bod extension J as for at it will go. Open
bobbin (are latdt K and lift out bobbin
case. Release latch and remove bobbin
from bobbin (me.

After winding bobbin, hold it so that

thread will unwind in direction shown
Turn the hand whool ovor toward you
about
until thread take-up lover 7 i: at its high-
oil point. Ploco spool of thread on epool Hold bobbin (are at xhown and plan
pin at top of machine and load throad bobbin into it.
into thread guldo 1, into thread guido 2,
down into throad guide 3, down, under
and from right to left botwoen tonllon
dims 4. Hold spool tightly and pull thread
up against tako-up spring 6, until lt
enter: retaining fork S, pan thread up
into thread guide 3, from right to left
through hole in taie~up lover 7, down
lhrouglr eyelet 8, lnto wiro thread guide
9. into wire thu-ad guide 10, into guide
ll on needle clamp, and from rlght to
left through the eye l? of the needle.
Pull lhrood into slot 1, under Iomion
Draw about two indie: of thread 1prlng 2, and into slot 3 at end of sprlnq.
through eye of needle with which to "art Allow about three inches of thread to
towing. hang free from bobbin cote.

25
 MULTI-SLOTTED BINDER AND "S MANY USES

APPLIED TO FAMILY SEWING

Preparing Binding for Use in the Binder

The bias cutting gauge, as shown

in Fig. 31, is very convenient for cut-

ting bias strips for use with the

Binder attachment. Unfolded binding

A for use with the Binder must be cut
1h. “afghan Gm,” 15,46" wide. By placing the gauge
on the pointed end of the scissors
and setting the blue spring indicator
A, Fig. 31 to the width desired, bias binding may be cut from any
material. The letter F is the point at which to set the indicator for
facings, B for binding and C for cording or piping.

OUTKIOC
stars rot!
arrrnmr
snow; or
raow
t‘.‘
it.‘
,.
~‘ _
L.
/ _

(nun SLOT
C‘ $010“ [056 Gust
cc:s-r-wo
ONLY

Fig. 32. Multi-Slotted Binder 160359l

iOn Machine 30! use Binder 160624 which is the some as Binder 160359 except that
it has a slanted shank to fit the slanted presser bar of Machine 301.

26
 This multi-slotted Binder will apply unfolded bias binding
15/16" in width and commercial folded binding in sizes 1, 2, 3, 4
and 5 to the seams or to the edges of garments. These sizes of
folded binding are 1/4", 5/16”, 3/8”, 7/16” and 1/2” in width,
respectively, and are fed through slots of corresponding sizes in
the binder scroll. See Fig. 32. Binding may be purchased in a variety
of materials and colors.
For convenience in determining the correct width of unfolded
binding (15/16"), this measurement is marked on the Binder, as
shown in Fig. 32.
The two upright guide pins as shown in Fig. 32 eliminate man-
ual guiding of the binding.
The wide range of bindings that can be applied with this
Binder makes it useful for a large variety of work. it will be found
particularly advantageous for making children‘s wear, lingerie,
summer dresses, and other dainty articles which call for the nor-
rower bindings.
As two different widths of binding of contrasting color can be
fed through the Binder at the same time, attractive binding and
piping effects can be produced in one operation.

To Attach Binder 160359i'

Raise the needle to its highest position, then attach the Binder
to the presser bar in place of the presser foot.
See that tho needle enters the center of tho needle hole.
CAUTION—When this Binder is used on Machines 22] and 301,
do not raise the hinged extension of the cloth plate high enough
to strike the Binder, as this would tend to distort and damage the
Binder. Before storing or packing the 221 or 30] Machine, the
Binder should be removed to avoid damage.

To Insert the Binding in Binder 1603591

Cut all binding to a long point to the left, as
shown in Fig. 33.
Folded Bias Binding must be inserted in the slot
or slots of corresponding sizes. See Fig. 38.
Unfolded or Raw Edge Bias Binding must be
inserted in the open end of the scroll. See Fig. 34.
After inserting the pointed end of the binding
1; in the Binder, push it through until the full width of
"""”’ the binding is under the needle.
Cmflg'oapiim Guide the binding by means of the two upright
on Binding pins, as shown in Figs. 34 and 38.

tSee note at bottom of page 26.

 To Insert the Garment in Binder 1603S9i
Place the edge to be bound as for to the right as it will go in
the center slot of the scroll, as shown in Fig. 34, and draw it back
under the Binder foot.

Fig. 34. Binding with Unfolded Bias Binding

Lower the Binder by means of the presser foot litter, and start
to sew. Keep the material well within the center slot of the scroll
so that the edge will be caught in the binding.

To Adiust Binder 160359?

To bring the inner edge of the binding closer to the stitching,
move the scroll C2, Fig. 34 to the right by means of the lug
B2, Fig. 34. This is the usual adjustment when binding straight edges.
When binding curves, move the scroll to the left to bring the
inner edge of the binding farther from the stitching and allow for
the sweep of the curve.
Plain Bound Seams
A plain bound seam is practical for
many garments, such as petticoats, wash
dresses, children's clothes, etc. Make a
plain seam and trim close to the line of
stitching,

Insert binding in Binder, adiust to sew

close to the edge, insert the seam in the
scroll of the Binder and start sewing,
taking care to hold the edge well within
Fig. 35. Plain sound 5.0", The Binder scroll to insure a safe seam.

fSee note at bottom of page 26.

23
 Open Bound Seams

An open bound seam is practical on

woolen garments where a double seam
would be too bulky. The seam is stitched

in the regular way after the garment is

fitted. It is then trimmed evenly about

3M” from the line of stitching and
pressed flat with an iron. Both edges of
the material are then bound with suit-
able material. Serge or woolens may be
bound with lightweight percaline. Fig. 36. Open Bound scam

Piped Edge
To produce a piped edge on garments, move the lug 82, Fig. 37
to the left to bring the stitching about midway of the folded
binding.

Fig. 37. Position of Garment when Piping Edges

Crease the raw edges of the garment toward the wrong side
about l,v"8", and insert the folded edge, raw edges uppermost, into
the edge guide on the Binder and beneath the binding.
When stitched, both sides of the garment will be finished, and
the right side will show the piped edge.

Piping and Binding in One Operation

A garment can be piped and bound in one operation, as shown
in Fig. 38.
Important—When piping and binding at the same time, as
shown above, insert the narrower width of binding first in its slot,
29
 ing. 38, Piping and Binding in One Operation

then insert the wider width in its slot. Two consecutive widths should
not be used at the same time. That is, it No, 1 is used, the wider
binding should not be smaller than No. 3. If No. 2 is used, the wider
binding should not be less than No. 4. Never use Nos. 1 and 2, or
2 and 3, etc, together.
Use the upright guide pins to guide the wider of the two widths
of binding, as shown in Fig. 38.

To Bind Outside Curves

Allow the edge to be bound to pass freely through the small
without crowding against the scroll wall. The material must be
guided from the back of the Binder and to the left, permitting un-
finished edges to swing naturally into the scroll of the Binder.

Fig. 39 Fig. 40. Sample of

Binding an Outside Curve Outside Curvo
 Never pull the binding while it is being fed through the Binder,
as this may stretch the binding, making it too narrow to stitch or to
turn in the edges.
When binding curves, turn the material only as fast as the
machine sews.
Do not push the material in too fast as this will pucker the edge.

Do not stretch the material as this will distort the edge so that
the curve will not have the proper shape when finished.

If the stitching does not catch the edge

of the binding, adiust the scroll slightly to
the left.

To Bind Inside Curves

When binding an inside curve,

straighten out the edge of the material
while feeding it into the Binder, being
careful not to stretch the material.

Soft materials like batiste or crepe de

chine require a row of stitching added close
Figs 41' Sum“ of to the edge of the curve before binding.
Inside Curve

Applying a French Fold to a Curve

Binding makes a very attractive trimming when applied as a
French fold in a contrasting color, or when made of white and ap-
plied to a colored garment. To apply the French fold, place the
material under the Binder and stitch the binding onto the face of
the material, as shown in Fig. 42.

"mn-

Fig. 42. Applying o French Fold

31
 For guidance in applying the rows of French folds, mark the
material with a line of basting stitches or with chalk or pencil.

Binding Plackets
It may appear difficult at first to bind a placket with the Binder,
but it is very simple after you have learned to told your material
properly at the point of the placket. To bind a placket, stitch down

Fig. 43. Binding 0 Plockot

to the left side of slit until the point of placket is about to enter
scroll, then swing right side of slit sharply into a straight line, the
fullness of the material forming a V at the left.

Run the machine slowly as the point is

reached and take care that too much material
is not allowed to feed into the Binder.

For practice, cut a slit about five inches.

deep in muslin and learn to fold it in a
straight line before starting to bind. When
you have mastered the placket you will find
it quite easy to bind scallops,

The bound placket is practical to use on

any garment where a wide overlap is not
desired.
It snap fasteners are used, they may be
sewn to the edge of the binding and the fig.“ samplo of

turned-back edge may be blind-stitched to Sound mad“,

the garment, as shown in Fig. 44.
3?
 Bound Scallops

The same method used in binding on out-

side curve is used for binding scallops. The
point at the top of the scallop is bound in
exactly the same manner as the placket. Prac-
tice the binding of a small single scallop first
before attempting to bind a row of scallops.

if the material is soft and liable to stretch,

add a row of machine stitching close to the
edge of the scallop before starting to bind the
edge.
Fig. 45. Sample of
Bound Scullem

Binding a Square Corner

To bind a square corner, apply the binding along one side to

within i/‘8" of the edge of the material, stopping the machine with
the needle and take-up at the highest point. Then draw the mate-
rial bock away from the needle for enough to pull about two inches
of the binding through the Binder. Fold and crease the binding to a
square mitered corner, turn the material and draw it back into the
Binder, bringing the needle down through the binding close to the
corner, as shown in Fig. 46. Draw the slack thread back through the
needle and tension. Be sure the new edge of the material is prop«
erly placed in the scroll of the Binder and begin stitching slowly
until you are sure the material is feeding properly. The loop of the
thread on the under side at the corner may be tied or cut off without
fear of raveling, as the stitch is locked.

Fig. 46. Turning 0 Square Corner Fig. 47. Sample of

Square Corner
 Making Button Loops with the Binder
To make button loops, first stitch together a piece of binding of
the desired material and length by using the Binder. You will then
have a quarter-inch fold with the edges stitched together. Cut a
strip of binding long enough to make a loop of the desired size and
fold it to a point, by bringing the two stitched edges together, hav-
ing ends even. Care should be taken to keep all right sides upper‘
most. Fasten the loop at the point with a hand sewing needle.

Fig. 48. Making Button Loops

The loops may be fastened to the garment

in any desired manner. If used as a trimming, .

they may be applied under a tuck or pleat, and n 4

when used on the edge of the garment, they may 50mg; Loom
be applied with a facing. Applied
Bound Buttonholes Made with the Binder
Take a strip of material as wide as the space desired between
buttonholes and bind each side. For example, if you wish to make
your buttonholes two inches apart, take
a two-inch strip of material as shown in
Fig. 50, at A, and bind each side as
shown at B.
Measure the diameter of the button
you wish to use and cut the bound strip
into pieces one-half inch wider than the
button. 500 Fig. 50-8. After the strip is
cut into sections, bind them together so
that the bound edges iust meet, as
shown in Fig. 51. Bind one edge of this
strip, using the Binder, and before bind-
ing the other edge, place the edge of the
garment even with the strip of button-
holes and bind both edges at one stitch-
ing, See Fig. 52. The free edge of the
binding can then be stitched flat to the
. , . garment.
F'g' shifrzfigflfwnd If an extra-strong buttonhole is de-
sired, a linen tape may be used for the
binding.
34
 This must, however,
be one-half inch in
width and be used in
the outside slot of the
Binder.

Fig. 53. Samples of

Fig. 52. Completing Bound Buttonhole; Bound Buttonholos

Making Cut-In Buttonholes with the Binder

~ 1e {v The cut-in buttonhole is
l— made in the some way as the
placket. Cut a slot in the edge
of the material to the depth
you wish to make the button-
hole and shape it as shown in
Fig. 54, at A. Fold the mate-
rial in the same manner as in
binding a placket. See Fig. 43.
Trim of? the edge of the bind-
ing, as shown in Fig. 54, at B,
and bind the edge with the
Fig. 54. Cut-ln Buttonhole-s Binder 05 shown OT C.

Binding and Applying Rick-Rack Braid to the Edge

of a Garment at One Stitching
Rick-rack braid may be purchased at any notion counter and
comes in a variety of colors and widths. This braid makes an at-
tractive trimming for house dresses and aprons and may be applied
to an outside or an inside curve at the same time the edge is bound.

35
 Fig. 55. Binding and Applying Rick-Rack Braid

Insert the edge to be bound, together with the rick-rack braid, in

the scroll of the Binder, as shown in Fig. 55. The rick-rack braid
should be fed into the Binder in a straight line and against the wall
of the scroll, regardless of the shape of the garment to which it is
being attached. This is especially true in binding an outside curve.

A fine rick-rack braid is most efiective

trimming on organdy dresses or collar and

cuff sets.

This braid is very inexpensive, and

solves the problem of trimming cotton gar-
ments when a little decoration is needed.
Rick-rack braid may be applied equally
well to outside or inside curves and because
of the weave will lie flat after the garment
Fig. 56. Edge Trimmed
is laundered.
with Binding and
Ri‘k'kml‘ "dd Other types of cotton braid trimmings
may be applied in the same manner.

Finishing the Neck Edge of a Garment

with Binding

The problem of a neat binding for the neck edge or sleeves of a

garment is easily solved by applying binding with the Binder.
36
Fig. 57 shows
the neck edge
of a garment
trimmed with
a n a r r o w
p l e a t i n g
which was
made with
the Ruffler as
directed on
page 54. Af-
ter the pleat-
i n 9 w a s
s t i t c h e d
to the edges
Fig. 57. Finishing an Edge with Ruining and Binding
of the gar-
ment, the seam was trimmed close to the line of sewing and the
edge bound with suitable material, using the Binder.
Silk binding may be applied in this manner by cutting the silk
on a true bias, using the cutting gauge as directed on page 26.
When using silk for binding, a small strip should be cut first, and
tested in the Binder to determine the correct width. Soft silk will
work satisfactorily when cut about one inch in width.
Applying Military Braid with the Binder
Most attractive trimmings for serge or other woolen dresses may
be developed by using military braid as a binding. The braid must
measure one-half inch in width for use with the Binder and it must
be inserted in the outside slot.

Fig. 58.
Binding with Military Braid
r . .
5°”° °
|
"ʼ 59Braid Applied
i
Military
with Binder

Curved edges on woolen material are quite as easy to bind as

on cotton material. Military braid makes an excellent finish for the
37
neck and cuffs or the panels on a serge dress. It is impossible to givr;
this braid a tailored finish when applying it by hand or first basting
and then stitching it.
This braid comes in a variety of colors in silk and cotton.

A Suggestion for Trimming

Binding may be stitched flat to the material to form a lattice
effect by placing the binding in the Binder in the regular way and
the material to which the binding is to be applied under the attach-
ment, following directions for making French folds on page 31.

Binding may
also be applied
to paper in this
manner, and
when the paper
is torn away
the binding will
be stitched to-
gether in the
form of a lattice
insertion, which
makes a most
attractive trim-
ming for dresses
of silk or cotton. Fig. 60. The Binder Making lattice Trimming
 THE FOOT HEMMER

The Foot Hemmer Fig. 61 is attached to the

machine in place of the presser foot. Raise the
needle to the highest point, loosen the thumb
screw which clamps the presser foot to the
presser bar and remove the presser foot. At-
tach the Foot Hemmer to the bar, taking care
to tighten the screw firmly so that the Hemmer
will not become loose when the machine is
running. Turn the hand wheel slowly to make
sure that the needle goes through the center
Fig. 61. The Foot
Hemmer
of the needle hole and that the lower thread
is properly pulled up.

To Start the Hem at the Edge

(1) Fold edge of material twice, about 1/8 inch each time, for a
distance of about two inches. Crease folds.

(2) Lay about three inches of needle and bobbin threads back
under hemmer. Place creased edge of material under hemmer
with end of hem directly under needle. Lower hemmer and
tack end of hem with two machine stitches.

Fig. 62. Starting Hem at very end of Material

(3) Raise hemmer. Pull threads and hem slightly from you with
left hand, then while holding threads, draw material toward
you with right hand and guide material into scroll of hemmer
until tacked end is caught in hemmer, as shown in Fig. 62.
39
 Fig 63. van-ing Edge of Material and
Pullmg Bock Threads while Sewing

(4) Lower hemmer and start to sew, slightly pulling threads back
while sewing. Keep scroll of hemmer full to produce a smooth,
even hem, as shown in Fig. 63.

Making a Hemmed Seam with the Foot Hemmer

The hemmed seam is very practical to use on underwear, or in
fact on any garment where a straight seam is used and where a
small double seam would be suitable.

When using this seam, the garment must first be fitted and the
edge of the material trimmed, allowing for about one-eighth inch
scam. The two edges are placed together and inserted in the
Hemmer in the same manner as
a single hem. If the material is
bulky, the edge of the upper
piece of material may be placed
about one-eighth inch in from
the edge of the lower piece. See
Fig. 64.
The free edge of a hemmed
seam may be stitched flat to the
garment if desired. First open
' the work out flat, then place the
hem in the scroll of the Hemmer.
mood which acts as a guide, holding
the edge of the hem in position
Fig. 64. Melting a Hummed Seam while if is being stitched.
if the seam is stitched flat to the garment, one row of stitching
is. visible on the right side.

The hemmed seam may be used on muslin, lawn, percale, or-

gandy or other fine materials where a narrow seam is desirable. It
is not practical to seem woolen material in this manner.

40
 Hamming and Sewing on lace in One Operation

Start the hem in the regular way and with the needle holding
the hem in position, raise the presser bar sufficiently to allow the
edge of the lace to be slipped in under the Foot Hemmer, at the
same time bringing it up through the slot at the right of the Hem-
mer. See Fig. 65. Lower the bar, turn the hand wheel and catch
the edge of the lace with the needle. Guide the hem with the right
hand and the lace with the left. Care should be taken not to stretch
the lace as it is being fed into the Hemmer.

It is not practical to sew gathered lace on with the Foot Hemmer,

as the fulled lace catches in the Hemmer slot.

A very attrac-
tive way of ap-
plying lace so
that the stitch-
ing of the hem
is not visible is
to start the hem
in the regular
way, slipping
the lace in from
the left as you
would the sec-
ond piece of
Fig. 65. Hemming and Sewing on lace
material when
making a hem-
med seam.

Hamming Fine Materials with the Foot Hemmer

When hemming fine materials such as georgette or crepe de

chine with the Foot Hemmer, the material will not feed through
properly and the stitch will be very much shorter than when sew-
ing with the presser foot on the same material.

To overcome this difficulty, and to assist in holding soft mate-

rials so that they will be turned properly with the Foot Hemmer,
insert a piece of paper under the foot of the Hemmer and allow it
to feed through with the material. Strips of thin paper or the edges
of newspapers are very convenient for stitching. Never use tissue
paper, as this will be very difficult to pull away from the material.
41
 THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER

The Adiustable Hemmer Fig. 66 is a

part of the set of attachments supplied
with most family machines. This Hemmer
will make a hem of any desired width
up to about 15/16 inch.

Remove the presser foot and attach

the Hemmer to the presser bar, taking
care that the needle comes in the center
“9A 66. "w Adimmmo of the needle hole after you tighten the
Hammer thumb screw.

How to Adiust the Hemmer for Hams of Various Widths

To adjust the Hemmer, loosen the screw and you will then be
able to move the hemmer guide to the right or to the left. Note the
pointer A, Fig, 66 which is used in connection with the scale of
figures on the Adiustable Hemmer.
The Hemmer may be adiusted as follows:
Pointer set at:
l—for 3,1’16" hem (approximate) 5—for 5iv’3” hem (approximate)
2—~for 1/4” hem (approximate) 6—for 3,»’4" hem (approximate)
3-for 3/8" hem (approximate) 7—for 7.18" hem (approximate)
4~for l,."'2" hem (approximate) 8—for l5j16" hem (approximate)

After setting the Hemmer, care should be taken to see that the
adjusting screw is well tightened before starting to sew.

How to Insert the Material in the Adiustable Hemmer

Fold over the edge at the end of the material to be hemmed, as
instructed for starting a hem with the Foot Hemmer. Place the mate-
rial in the Hemmer
under the scale and
draw it back and
forth until the hem is
formed.
You will then be
able to determine the
width and to fold
over the end of the
hem for the second
turning. Draw the
material back until
the end comes direct-
l)’ under the needle. Fig. 67. Hamming with tho Adiustoble Hemmer

42
 Lower the presser bar and sew, guiding sufficient material in
the Hemmer to turn the hem properly.

if the hem is not started evenly at the edge it will run bias and
not come out even at the other end.

Hemming Soft Material

When hemming soft material that is liable to stretch, it is well

to slip a piece of paper under the Hemmer next to the feed. This
will prevent the material from stretching and assist in turning the
hem.

How to Prepare a Hem on Table linen

Much time is spent in turning the hem of table linen to make it

ready for hand sewing. The Hemmer is very valuable for this opera-
tion. Set the Hemmer for the desired width of hem, take the thread
from the needle and run
the linen through the
Hemmer.
You will find that the
hem has been evenly
turned, ready for the
hand sewing and the
holes made by the ma-
chine needle have soft-
ened the linen, making
it quite easy to do the
hand work. See Fig. 68.
Table linen or other
material may be pre-
pared for hemstitching fig. 69. Preparing: a ttmn on Table Linen
in this manner.

43
 THE EDGE-STITCH!!!

The Edge-Stitcher is a very useful at-

tachment and is available for all family
machines described in this book. It is
attached to the machine in place of the
presser foot. The slots, which are num-
bered from i to 5, Fig. 69, serve as
guides for sewing together laces, in-
sertions, embroideries, sewing in posi-
tion hemmed or folded edges, piping
or sewing flat braid to a garment. The
Edge-Stitcher will be found an indis-
pensable aid whenever stitching must
Eds-95,53,” be kept accurately on the extreme edge
of a given lme.

Attaching the Edge-Stitcher to the Machine

Raise the needle bar to its highest point, remove the presser foot
and attach the Edge-Stitcher in its place. Turn the hand wheel
over slowly by hand to see that the needle goes through the center
of the needle hole. For practice in adiusting the Edge-Stitcher, place
a folded edge of material in slot 1 and proceed to stitch. Push the
adiusting lug, A, Fig. 69, as far as it will go to the right and note
the result; then pull to the left and note that the stitching is now
closer to the edge. If the attachment seems hard to adiust, place a
drop of oil at the blue spring. As the oil works under, the lug may
be moved smoothly, from side to side, as desired.

Sewing Lace Together with the Edge-Stitcher

When adjusting the Edge-
Stitcher to sew two lace edges
together, it is necessary to
place one edge of the lace in
slot 1, Fig. 69, and adiust to
sew close to the edge. Place the
second piece of lace in Slot 4,
and as the lace feeds through
the attachment, hold the edges
slightly over-lapped. This will
prevent the lace from feeding
away from the guides.
The tension on the machine
must be properly adiusted so
that the lace will not be puck-
ered. If the edges of the lace
are not caught together, ad-
iust lug A, Fig. 69, slightly in
Fig. 70. Sewing lace Together
the proper direction.
 As it is difficult to sew two

‘
lace edges together even

1.
Aortcfififlfifixw
after basting, the Edge-
Stitcher proves a most valu-
able time-saver for such
operations. Fig. 70 shows
the Edge-Stitcher in opera-
tion and Fig. 71 an attrac-
tive sample of lace ioining.
-‘; c;
-..A\ ‘

Lace and ribbon may be

sewn together in the same
'~

manner, making dainty

trimming for underwear.
See Fig. 72.
Fig. 7L Sample of Fig. 72. late
lace Joining with and Material

Edy-5mm" Setting in lace Insertion ”Nd

When making lingerie, lace
insertion is sometimes set in the
material for trimming. There is
always a problem of how to lin-
ish the edge of the material
without making a hem. The
Edge-Stitcher may be used for
this operation by folding the
material on the edge to which
the insertion is to be attached,
placing the insertion in slot 4
and the folded edge in slot 1,
Fig. 69.
The surplus material is then
cut away close to the stitching
as shown in Fig. 73. The edge of
the material will not pull out as
it has been stitched through a
double thickness, Fig. 72 shows
Fig. 73. Setting in Lace insertion a finished sample of this type of
work.
Piping with the Edge-Stitcher
Piping is very attractive if the correct contrasting color is chosen
for the piping material. Place the piping in slot 3, Fig. 69, with the
finished edge of the piping to the left and the edge to be piped in
slot 4, as shown in Fig. 74. It is advisable to cut the piping bias and
this may be quickly done with the bias cutting gauge as described
on page 26.
Set the spring of the cutting gauge betWeen B and C and the
piping will be the correct width to fit the piping slot in the Edge-
Stitcher after it has been folded in the center.
45
 Applying Bias Folds with
the Edge-Stitcher

Folded tape, which may be

purchased in a variety of colors
and materials, may be applied
to a garment with the Edge-
Stitcher by placing the tape in
slot 4 and the garment to which
the trimming is to be applied
fiat under the attachment. See
Fig. 75. When turning a square
corner, sew until the turning
point is reached, take the tape
from the attachment, miter the
Fig. 74. Piping with the
corner by hand and place the
Edge-Stitch"
edge in position in the attach-

ment as illustrated. This folded

tape may be purchased in a
variety of widths and may be
chosen to suit the type of gar-
ment to be made.

Military Braid Applied with

the Edge-Stitcher
Military braid makes a neat
tailored trimming for a serge,
or other woolen dress and may
Fig. 75. Applying Bias Folds with be applied without basting by
the Edge«$titcher using the Edge-Stitcher. The line
of trimming may be indicated

by a chalk mark or basting

thread. Trimming applied with
the Edge-Stitcher will give a gar-
ment the tailored finish so desir-
able for a garment made at
home.

The braid is inserted in slot 4,

Fig. 69, and the attachment is
adiusted to sew close to the edge
of the braid. The garment is then
placed under the attachment.
See Fig. 76, showing Edge-
Stitcher in operation sewing on
Fig. 76. Applying Military Braid
military braid.
 Making a French Seam with the Edge-Stitcher
The Edge-Stitcher may be used when making French seams
to
keep the seam of uniform width. Make the first stitching of the seam
on the right side of the garment, using the presser foot, trim the
edge close to the stitching and fold to the wrong side of the gar-
ment. Place the folded edge in slot 4 of the Edge-Stitcher, Fig. 69
and adiust to make the width of seam desired.

Fig. 77. The Edge-Stitcher Malling

a French Seam A French Seam

Since the use of this attachment will prevent spoiling the appear-
ance of a garment, it will prove most valuable in avoiding poorly
stitched seams. See Fig. 77, showing the Edge-Stitcher in operation
making a French seam, and Fig. 78, the finished seam.

The Edge-Stitcher Making a Wide Hem

A wide hem may be stitched

in position with the Edge-Stitcher
after the hem has been meas-
ured and the edge turned. The
edge of the hem is inserted in
slot 5 of the attachment, Fig. 69.
Adiustment is then made to
bring the stitching close to the
edge of the hem. This method of
hemming may be used for hems
with a straight edge such as
sheets, pillow slips, etc. See
Fig. 79, showing Edge-Stitcher in
operation making a wide hem.
Fig. 79. Making a Wide Hem
 SHIRRING WITH THE GATHERER

The Gatherer is fastened to the machine in the same manner as

the presser foot. Material placed under the Gatherer and stitched in
the usual way will be slightly gathered. The length of stitch on the
machine regulates the fullness of the gathers. A longer stitch will
increase the fullness, while a shorter stitch will decrease it.

With the Gatherer, it is pos-

sible to shirr in narrow rows as
shOWn in Fig. 80. The material
may be guided as easily as
when sewing with the presser
foot. Fine materials, such as
batiste, silk or net, may be very
attractively shirred. Where only
a slight fullness is required, as
at the top of a sleeve or around
the neck, the Gatherer will be
found very convenient.

Fig. 81. Shining Fig. 82. Smocking

A very pleasing effect may be gained by using heavy duty

thread or embroidery silk in contrasting color on the bobbin. Fig. 82
shows a white organdy collar and cuff set with red and green
smacking made with the Gatherer, using heavy duty thread on top
and white cotton in the bobbin.
48
 THE RUFFLER

The Parts of the Rumor and Their Uses

It is necessary to become familiar with the Rufflor before it can
be used successfully. Select the Ruffler from the set of attachments
and compare it with Fig. 83. Note the names and uses of the prin-
cipal parts, as follows:

B—>

Fig. 83. Principal Parts of the Ruffler

NOTE: if the Ruffier with your machine is not exactly like the one
in Fig 83, you will find the working parts quite similar. Any difTer<
ence in the adiustments will be found explained in the instruction
book that is furnished with your machine.
A—Foot—attaches rumor to the presser bar.
B—Fark Arm—straddles the needle clamp.
C—Adiusting Screw—regulates fullness of gathers.
D—Proiection—engages the slots in the adjusting lever,
E—Adiusting lever—sets ruffler for gathering or for making a
pleat once at every 6 stitches or once every 12 stitches as desired;
also for disengaging ruflier, when either pleating or gathering is
not desired.
F—Adiusting Finger—regulates width or size of pleats.
G—Separator Guide—contains slots into which edge of material
is placed to keep the heading of ruffle even,- also for separating the
material to be ruffled from the material to which the ruffle is to be
attached.
H—Ruflling Blade—pushes the material in pleats up to the
needle.
J—Separator Blade—prevents rattling blade teeth from contact-
ing feed or material to which ruffle or pleating is applied.
49
 To Attach the Rut't'ler

(i) Raise the needle to its highest point.

(2) Loosen the presser foot thumb screw and attach the ruffler to
the presser bar in place of the presser feet, at the same time
placing the fork arm 8 astride the needle clamp.
(3) See that the needle enters the center of the needle hole in the
ruffler.

Fig. 84. Gathering with the Rumor

To Adiust the Ruffier for Gathering

(i) Swing the adiusting finger F away from the needle.

(2) Raise the adiusting lever E and move it until the proiection D
can be entered in the slot marked ”i."

.,
,
.-
, "a w
E;1T51
__ ,
__2
finer/unto
I‘IATERIAL

Fig. 85. Correct Position for Material to be Ruffled

Insert the material to be ruffled between the two blue blades

and under the separator guide Line 2, Fig. 85.
Draw the material slightly back of the needle, lower the
presser bar and start to sew.
For fine gathering, turn the adiusting screw C upward and
shorten the stitch.
For full gathering, turn the adiusting screw C downward and
lengthen the stitch.
50
 To Make a Ruffle and Sew it to a Garment
in One Operation

(1) Insert the material to be ruffled between the two blue blades
and under the separator guide, line 2, Fig. 86.

Making a Rome and Attaching it in One Operation

(2) Place the material to which the rufile is to be attached under

the separator blade and the separator guide, line I, Fig. 86.

(3) Proceed the some as for plain gathering.

Si
 To Make a Ruffle and Attach it with 0 Facing
in One Operation

(1) Insert the material to be ruffled between the two blue blades

and under the separator guide, Line 2, Fig. 88.

GARMENT; '
(”690

Fig. 88. Correct Positions for the Materials

(2) Place the material to which the ruffle is to be attached under

the separator blade and under the separator guide, line 1,

Fig. 88.

(3) Place the facing material over the upper blue blade, line 4,
Fig. 88.

Fig. 89. Making a Ruffle and Attaching it with o

Facing in One Operation

(4) If the facing is to be on the right side of the garment, place the

wrong sides of the garment and ruffle together.

(5) If the facing is to be on the wrong side, place the right sides

of the garment and ruffle together.

52
 To Pipe a Ruffle

(1) Insert the material to be ruffled between the two blue blades,

line 3, Fig. 90. This material must not exceed 1-1/4 inches in
width.

Fig. 90. Correct Petitions for the Materials

The piping material is usually cut on the bias and it should be

about i,v"4 inch wide when folded in the center. Place the pip-
ing material in the ruffler, following line 5, Fig. 90, with the
folded edge of the piping to the right.

fig. 9l. Piping a Ruffle

(3) Fold the edge of the material to which the piping and rufi'ling

are to be attached and insert it in the ruffier from the left,

following line 6, Fig. 90.
 To Adiust the Rumer for Floating

Raise the adiusting lever E and move it until the proiection D

can be entered in the slot marked ”6.” The rufiler will then
pleat once every six stitches. To pleat once every twelve
stitches, have the proiection D enter the slot "12" in the adiust-
ing lever E.

Fig. 92. Pleating with the Rumor

(2) Insert the material to be pleated between the two blue blades
and under the separator guide, Line 2, Fig. 93.

”fl by rfi Ruff! [HG
HA ref/rm L 2

Fig. 93. Correct Position for the Material

To increase the width of pleat, move the adiusting finger F

back toward the needle and turn the adiusting screw C down-
ward. To make a smaller pleat, turn the adiusting screw C up-

ward. The distance between pleats is regulated by the length

of stitch.
 To Adiust the Ruffler for Group Pleating

(i) To make the space between

the groups of pleats, raise the
adiusting lever E and move it
until the proiection D can be
entered in the small slot indi-
cated by the star on the adiust-
ing lever E. The ruffler will
then stop pleating and plain
stitching will be made.

Fig. 94. Group Fleeting with Ruffian

When the desired space is made, set the proiection D in either

of the slots "6" or "12.”

Insert the material to be pleated between the two blue blades

and under the separator guide, Line 2, Fig. 95.

fl
O
O
fi%;-——— 0

TL?
fizz HATE/(Idl-
Fig. 95. Correct Position for the Material

To Oil the Ruffler

The ruffler requires an occasional

oiling of all working parts to pre-
vent them from sticking. A drop of
oil at each point indicated in Fig.
95 A. is sufficient. If possible, sew
on a waste piece of material, after
oiling, to prevent your garment from
becoming soiled. If ruffler does not
pleat evenly, a drop of oil at the
right spot may remedy the trouble.

Fig. 95 A. Oiling Points on Ruffler

 How to Test the Ruffle for Fullness

It is often necessary to adjust the Ruffler for a certain fullness,

but because the length of stitch affects the fullness as well as the
position of the adjusting screw, it is impossible to have an indicator
on the Ruffler to determine the amount of fullness that will be taken
up. in addition, some materials take up more fullness than others
with the some setting of the stitch and adjusting screw. It is there-
fore necessary to experiment with a small piece of the material to
be ruffled, if the correct amount is to be gathered. For example, if
the fullness of a ruffle is to be one and a half, take a six-inch piece
of material and gather it into a four-inch space.

How to Slide the Gathers on the Thread

Another convenient way of gathering to fit a given space is to
loosen the upper tension on the machine. This will allow the gathers
to slide on the thread to fit the desired space the same as in hand
gathering.
When gathering in this way, it is necessary to leave a long
thread when taking the material from the machine so that the
gathers may be adjusted as desired. It is also well to use a strong
upper thread so that there will be no danger of breaking it when
sliding the gathers.

Finishing a Rufi'led Seam with Binding

Make the ruffle and sew it to the garment in one operation, then
trim the seam close to the edge. Remove the Ruffler and attach the
Binder to the machine. Select a suitable material to use for binding
the seam and insert it in the Binder. Place the edge of the ruffled
seam in the Binder and bind as shown in Fig. 96.

fig. 96. Finishing a Ruffled Seam Fig. 97. Binding a Rufiied

with Binding Seam Flat

The seam may be bound on the right side of the garment '
desired and then stitched flat as shown in Fig. 97.
56
 Finishing a Ruffle with a French Seam

Place the garment and the

material for the ruffle in the
Ruffler as previously ex-
plained, with the wrong side
of the material to be ruffled
facing the wrong side of the
garment. After sewing the ruf-
fle to the garment in one op-
eration, trim the seam close
to the line of stitching and

Fig. 98. flame Finished with

turn the seam to the wrong

a French Scam
side of the garment. Stitch in
position with the presser foot.
See Fig. 98.

Pleated lace or Ribbon

Ribbon and lace that have a little dressing can be pleated suc-
cessfully with the Rufiler, if one inch or more in width. When pleat-
ing lace, however, it is necessary to place a strip of paper under
the Ruffler. See Fig. 99 and note
especially the paper under the
Rufller. Ribbon is pleated in the
same manner, but paper is not
required unless the ribbon is i

very soft.

it is advisable to use lace

with a fine mesh for pleating,
because coarse lace may catch Fig. 99. Floating lace with Paper

in the rufi'iing blade.

Very attractive trimmings for lingerie and fancy articles may be

made of pleated lace. Rosettes of lace or ribbon are used for dec-
orations on many garments.
57
 THE ELECTRIC SEWING MACHINE

In this Electrical Age what household appliance is more valuable

than the electric sewing machine? With the burden of stitching cared
for by the electric motor, so easily connected to any electrical out-
let, the problem of making clothes becomes a pleasure for the
woman who has even a limited knowledge of sewing.
In planning a garment to be made at home, the average woman
formerly welcomed a pattern that called for as little stitching as
possible; but with the electric machine, the frock that calls for count-
less tucks and frills is a ioy to complete.
When using the electric sewing machine, all you need to do is to
touch the knee or foot control lightly and the machine will start,
slowly at first, and by increasing the pressure on the control, it may
be run as fast as desired. SINGER electrics may be controlled at a
low speed when sewing a short length of seam, where great care
must be taken in guiding the material, or at any other speed which
may be best for the work.

Types of Electric Sewing Machines

Electric sewing machines are of three principal types: treadle
machines with a motor attached, portable machines and cabinet
table machines.
The older form of
electric sewing machine
is the ordinary treadle
machine to which a
motor has been added,
as shown in Fig. TOO.
The motor is attached
with a single screw to
the seat on the arm be-
low the hand wheel,
the regular belt is re-
placed by the motor
belt, the foat controller
connected to the three-
pin terminal, the cord
plugged into an electric
outlet, and the treadle
mathlne has become an Fig. IOO. Treadlo Machine Equipped with
electric. The whole pra- Motor and Foot Control
cess takes only a few
minutes and can be done by anyone without electrical or mechanical
skill. Should it ever become necessary to revert back to treadle
operation, this can be done quickly by slipping off the motor belt
and putting on the belt from the band wheel. It is not even neces-
sary to remove the motor.
58
 Portable Electric Machines

Portable Electric Machines consist of a sewing head with a motor

and electric light, in a small and compact carrying case. Fig. 101
shows the 221-1 Portable, beautifully designed along smart, modern
lines and handsomely finished. It is a rotary machine with all the
modern features of other SINGER electrics, and will sew forward or
backward.

Weighing only a trifle over 11 pounds, this machine is easily

carried. Fig. 102 shows the machine titted snugly in the convenient
carrying case with its foot controller, electric cord and all attach-
ments, ready to be locked and put away in a closet.

Other types of Portable Electrics (3/4 sized heads) with base

and cover and knee control, are also popular with the sewing

Fig. 102
FEATHERWEIGHT' Portable 22] Machine Cale Open

Electric Cabinet Machines

To meet the demands of modern homes where every item of

equipment must be ornamental as well as useful, electric sewing
machines may be obtained in handsome cabinets of graceful and
modern designs, entirely concealing the machine when not in use,
and serving as a desk or table in any room. The cabinets may be used
as a dressing table or side table in the bed room; as a library table,
writing desk or stand for lamp in the living room; as a serving table or
side table in the dining room; as an ornamental table for lamp, vase,
pottery or other decoration, or telephone desk in the hall; and in general
as an occasional table for a great variety of uses throughout the home.
 The Sewing Stool

This sturdy sewing stool affords a seat of

ideal height for operation of a cabinet
model sewing machine.

It is also used by many women as a

dressing table bench and for other similar
purposes. The cushion top lifts to reveal a
handy recess for sewing materials. The
sewing stool may also be obtained with
Fig. 103, Sowing Stool either round or Queen Anne Legs.

light for Sewing Machines

The problem of proper illum-
ination for sewing has been
solved by the use of a small
electric lamp attached to the
machine and arranged to throw
the rays of light on the bed of
the machine without glaring in-
to the eyes of the operator.
Fig. 104 shows this ingenious
Fig. 104. The Light
device, attached to the back of
the arm and connected by a short cord to the three-pin terminal
body and the cord supplying electricity to the motor.

With such a light, sewing may be done without eye strain in any
part of the home at any time. The light is furnished with all
SlNGER Electric Machines and may easily
be attached to SINGER Hand and Treadle
Machines.

Machine No. 20
Although the SINGER No. 20 Machine
is primarily intended to teach little girls
to sew, it is used by many college and
business girls for occasional mending
and altering. This popular "midget
model” is very easy to use and is abso-
Fig, 105 lutely safe. It clamps on any convenient
No, 20 Machine desk or table.
60
 FASHION AIDS
AND
SPECIAL ATTACHMENTS
run even sruomr CAN use
These sewing accessories add considerably to the value and pleasure of sewing. Through
their use your machine will quickly maize dozens ol smart trims and finishes that require
tedious etiort and patience to do by hand.
Instructions in their use may be had at any SINGER SEWING CENTER.

Other SINGER Fashion Aids

and Special Attachments
not illustrated here include:
Cloth Guide
Flange Hemmer
Gauge Presser Foot
AUTOMATIC ZIGZAGGER — Multi-Slotted Binder
enables you to produce an
infinite variety of attractive
Rutfller
EDGE-STITCHER -
Holds
ornamental designs merely Stocking Darner the edge of the material
through the interchange of Tucker under the needle. Edges
different Stitch Patterns and ruffles, seams and collars.
adiustments at bight and Especially useful for ioining
stitch length.

"W
DARNING AND EMBROL RlPPER AND THREADER
DERY ATTACHMENT —stach- AND MATERIAL GRIPPER
QUllTER — Quilting has be-
ings. socks, underwear. etc.,
come more popular than --You can thread needles or
are more conveniently darned
ever. You can do it faster rip seams with the Ripper
with its aid.
and better with this handy and Threader. Material
little aid. Gripper holds one end of
Iha material.

WAIKING PRESSER FOOT—

Aflords the gentle handling
of seams that you would give
in careful hand sewing. It
neither stretches nor eases BRAlDER—For decorative BUTTONHOLER — Produces
the seam edge. This loot has braiding on collars, cufis,
firmer, more even button-
become an essential aid to children's clothes, etc. As no
women who wish to obtain basting is required, much holes, and in much less time
perfection in sewing at the time is saved with this than those made by hand.
most efficient speeds. Fashion Aid.
6]
 GATHERING FOOT—Shirts
even rows of fine, dainty
gathers. Uuiul for chil-
ZIPPER FOOT— For stitching dren's clothes, lingerie fash-
on zipper tapes and other ion touches of home furnish-
edgings. With simple adjust- inns.
ment, it is a right or a left

cording foot.
 NEEDLES AND THREADS

For perfect stitching, the thread should be selected according to

the fabric to be stitched and the needle must be the correct size for
the thread which must pass freely through the eye of the needle.

CHART SHOWING THE RELATIONSHIP OF

TYPES OF FABRICS,
THREAD AND NEEDLE SIZES AND
MACHINE STITCH SETTINGS
271 "" :'-. A'~‘~"\.-“
l
Types of Thread l Nee-die
Fabrics Sixes Sixes Settings

Filmy materials comparable to 50 Embroidery Inside Top

Net, Marquisette, Chilton, 100 Cotton Seams Stitching
00 000
]

Sillr, Organdy, Ninon, Silk and ,

Velvet, Nylon Sheers. Silk ‘ 2° 30

Nylon

Sheer materials comparable to, 50 Embroidery

lawn, Dimity, Voile, lotitte, i 80 to IOO
Chiffon, Rayon Sheer. Rayon Cotton
Crepe, Sill: Crepe. l OSilk
‘ Synthetict

Lightweight materials compar- l 60 to 80 Cotton

able to Gingham, Chambroy. 50 Mercerlxed
Sheer Wool Crepe, Tofleto.

Medium lightweight materialsl

comparable to Poplin, Pique,
Percale, Crotonne, Chin“, sgolezycefioxtdn
Faille, Bengali-1c, Wool Flam A Silk
nel, Wool Crepe, Wool Jer-
sey.

Medium heavy materials com. 40 to 50 Cotton ‘

parable to Crash, Gobordine. Heavy Duty ‘ 16

Rep, Corduroy, Velveteen. Mercerized

Heavy materials comparable to 30 to 40 Cotton ‘ IBt

Sailcloth, Denim, Ticking, Drill : 24 to 30 Cotton ‘ I9
Cloth. ' D Sil'c . IE or 19

Very heavy materials compat- 40 to 60 Linen ‘ 2,

able to overcoming. 20 to 24 Cotton ‘

50 Mercerized
Plastic materials.
Cotton 1 l1

tlargest size needle that can be used in Machines 22! and 301.

When ordering needles, always specify “Class and Variety

inl" and state the size and quantity required.

You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing ma
chine if it is fitted with a SINGER needle.
63
__ / \\
/ , \
"/ S l NGE R
.

Serwce \\
t

The true test of all business enterprise is the \\ '.7

service it gives. The SlNGER Organization is \ i ;

governed by the basic idea that the public is \ l

entitled to the best of everything — the best

. . .
sewmg machine possible to produce, the best
\‘ .ʼ

attention, the greatest courtesy and a service

that does not end with the sale of a machine. i
t
SINGER shops are located in every city and in t
nearly every town. Thus SINGER employees are l
near at hand and easy of communication, i
always ready to give instruction, to supply parts,
i
needles or oil, and to make such machine 1
adjustments as may be required. This service '
is unique and is appreciated by teachers and
home users alike.

We make special low prices on

SINGER Sewing Machines and
other SINGER' Products for
use in schools. For these special
prices address