Fingermonster Brothers

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Pattern copyright 2011 by Karla Fitch. Please do not reproduce or copy this pattern without express written permission from the creator.
 Fingermonster Brothers
Early in 2011, the original Fingermonster, Roland, announced
that he was looking for his family -- specifically, his long
lost brothers. He contacted plush makes far and wide... and
luckily, he found me. All this time, Roland’s long lost brother,
Floyd, has been living under my roof... waiting to return
home. The brothers were reunited at last and there was much
rejoicing in the way monsters know best.

Roland and Floyd were so overjoyed that they decided they

would make it easy for any crocheter to bring a Fingermonster
into their home... and so this pattern was born.

You can learn more about Roland on his monsters-only blog,

I Only Like Monsters (http://www.ionlylikemonsters.com/p/
rolands-story.html) and keep up with the brothers’s exploits Roland, of http://www.ionlylikemonsters.com/
too. But for now, let’s get down to some monster making!

MATERIALS

• Worsted weight acrylic yarn in desired color (see pattern note for specifics used)
• Fiber fill
• Plastic beads or other material to provide weight
• 2 15 mm doll eyes (optional - see pattern notes)
• Size E crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge)
• Yarn needle
• Stitch marker
• 2 12-inch chenille stems

STITCHES AND ABBREVIATIONS USED IN THIS PATTERN:

CH chain stitch
SC single crochet
HDC half-double crochet
DECR decrease
STS stitches
MM move marker
FO finish off

For the project shown in the photographs, I used Red Heart Super Saver Economy Yarn in Gold
#0321

The eyes are hand-painted safety eyes purchased from 6060 on Etsy. You can find a full selection of
eyes and noses at http://www.etsy.com/shop/6060

Note: When determining whether to use buttons or other small embellishments, keep in mind
the age of the intended recipient. Doll eyes and other decorations may pose a choking hazard for
children under three.
 PART 1: BODY

The body begins with a cylinder shape worked in a traditional

amigurumi spiral. After working up to the point of the mouth,
we’ll bisect the cylinder and work in a spiral through only half
the area (see Figure 1).

Round 1: CH 2. 6 SC in second chain from hook. Place stitch

marker in the last SC to mark the end of the round.
Round 2: *2 SC in each ST around (12 SC). MM
Round 3: *2 SC in first SC, 1 SC in next. Repeat from *
around (18 SC). MM.
Round 4: *2 SC in first SC, 1 SC in each of next two STS.
Repeat from * around (24 SC). MM.
Round 5: *2 SC in first SC, 1 SC in each of next three STS. Figure 1: Body
Repeat from * around (30 SC). MM.
Round 6: *2 SC in first SC, 1 SC in each of next four STS. Repeat from * around (36 SC). MM.
Round 7: *2 SC in first SC, 1 SC in each of next five STS. Repeat from * around (42 SC). MM.
Round 8: *2 SC in first SC, 1 SC in each of next six STS. Repeat from * around (48 SC). MM.
Round 9: Working in outside loops only, SC in each ST around (48 SC). MM
Rounds 10-17: SC in each ST around (48 SC). MM.
Round 18: *DECR across first two STS, SC in each of the
next five STS. Repeat from * around (42 SC). MM.
Round 19: SC in each ST around (42 SC). MM.
Round 20: SC in each of the first 20 STS. CH 14. Skip
remaining STS and continue to next round.
Round 21: SC in first SC and in each ST around (34 SC). MM
Note: Your piece so far should look like Figure 2.

Round 22: SC in each of the first 25 STS. Work DECR across

two stitches twice. SC in remaining 5 STS (32 SC). MM.
Rounds 23-25: SC in each ST around (32 SC). MM.
Figure 2: Body (top view)
Round 26: SC in each of the first 24 STS. Work DECR across
two stitches twice. SC in remaining 4 STS (30 SC). MM.
Round 27: SC in each of the first 8 STS. Work DECR across two stitches twice. SC in remaining 18
STS (28 SC). MM.
Rounds 28-30: SC in each ST around (28 SC). MM.
Round 31: SC in each of the first 8 STS. Work DECR across two stitches twice. SC in each of the
next 10 STS. DECR across next two STS. SC in reaming 4 STS (25 SC). MM.
Rounds 32-34: SC in each ST around (25 SC). MM.
Round 35: SC in each of the first 8 STS. Work DECR across two stitches twice. SC in each of the
next 8 STS. DECR across next two STS. SC in reaming 3 STS (22 SC). MM.
Rounds 36-37: SC in each of the first 18 STS. HDC in each of the 4 remaining STS (22 SC). MM.
Round 38: Work 1 HDC in first SC and 1 SC in each of the next 16 STS. Work HDC in the remaining
5 STS (22 SC). MM.
Round 39: Work 1 HDC in each of the first two STS and one SC in next. FO.

PART 2: HEAD

To make the head, we start off with a flat circle, then bring
ups the sides to create a half sphere.

Round 1: CH 2. 6 SC in second chain from hook. Place stitch

marker in the last SC to mark the end of the round.
Round 2: *2 SC in each ST around (12 SC). MM
Round 3: *2 SC in first SC, 1 SC in next. Repeat from *
around (18 SC). MM.
Round 4: *2 SC in first SC, 1 SC in each of next two STS.
Repeat from * around (24 SC). MM.
Round 5: *2 SC in first SC, 1 SC in each of next three STS.
Repeat from * around (30 SC). MM.
Figure 3: Head
Round 6: Working in back loops only, SC in each ST around
(30 SC). MM.
Round 7: *DECR across first two STS, then SC in each of the next three STS. Repeat from * around
(24 SC). MM.
Round 8: *DECR across first two STS, then SC in each of the next two STS. Repeat from * around
(18 SC). MM.
Note: Stop now and attach eyes.

Round 9: *DECR across first two STS, then SC in each of the next ST. Repeat from * around (18
SC). MM.
Note: Stop now and stuff piece.

Round 10: *DECR across two STS around (6 SC). FO, leaving a tail. Use yarn needle and tail to
gather remaining STS together and weave in end.
 PART 3: MOUTH BASE

The inside of the mouth is started with a flat circle in black

yarn. After working the circle out to a predefined diameter,
you will pick up stitches across the center of the circle to
make a “T” shape, then work up the back of the throat.

Round 1: CH 2. 6 SC in second chain from hook. Place stitch

marker in the last SC to mark the end of the round.
Round 2: *2 SC in each ST around (12 SC). MM
Round 3: *2 SC in first SC, 1 SC in next. Repeat from *
around (18 SC). MM.
Round 4: *2 SC in first SC, 1 SC in each of next two STS.
Repeat from * around (24 SC). MM.
Round 5: *2 SC in first SC, 1 SC in each of next three STS. Figure 4: Finished mouth
Repeat from * around (30 SC). MM.
Round 6: *2 SC in first SC, 1 SC in each of next four STS. Repeat from * around (36 SC). MM.
Round 7: *2 SC in first SC, 1 SC in each of next five STS. Repeat from * around (42 SC).
Note: You may finish off here if you are more comfortable working that way or continue on
to Part 4 without finishing off.

PART 4: THROAT

Depending on whether you chose to finish off after part three,

you should join your yarn on the right side of the black circle
you just made OR wrap your yarn around the edge of the
piece so that you can begin stitching across the center of the
circle.

IMPORTANT: Contrasting yarn was used in Figure 5

to make it easier to see how the stitches are picked
up across the center of the circle. You should use
black yarn for this portion of the piece.

Row 1: Working evenly across the right side of the circle

made in Part 3, pick up 12 SC STS (see Figure 5). CH 1 and
turn.
Figure 5: Pick up stitches across mouth base
Rows 2-3: SC in each ST across (12 SC). CH 1 and turn.
Row 4: Work 1 SC in each of the first 6 STS. DECR across two
STS. Continue working 1 SC in each of the remaining 4 STS (11 SC). CH 1 and turn.
Rows 5-7: SC in each ST across (11 SC). CH 1 and turn.
Row 8: Work 1 SC in each of the first 5 STS. DECR across two STS. Continue working 1 SC in each
of the remaining 4 STS (10 SC). CH 1 and turn.
Row 9: SC in each ST across (10 SC). CH 1 and turn.
Row 10: Work 1 SC in each of the first 4 STS. DECR across
two STS. Continue working 1 SC in each of the remaining 4
STS (9 SC). CH 1 and turn.
Rows 11-13: SC in each ST across (9 SC). CH 1 and turn.
Row 14: Work 1 SC in each of the first 3 STS. DECR across
two STS. Continue working 1 SC in each of the remaining 4
STS (8 SC). CH 1 and turn.
Rows 15-17: SC in each ST across (8 SC). CH 1 and turn.
Row 18: Work 1 SC in each of the first 3 STS. DECR across
two STS. Continue working 1 SC in each of the remaining 3
STS (7 SC). CH 1 and turn.
Figure 6: Side view of piece (in process)
Rows 19-20: SC in each ST across (7 SC). CH 1 and turn.
Row 21: Work 1 SC in each of the first 2 STS. DECR across two STS. Continue working 1 SC in each
of the remaining 3 STS (6 SC). CH 1 and turn.
Row 22: DECR across first two SC STS and work 1 SC in each of the next two STS. DECR across
remaining two STS (4 SC). CH 1 and turn.
Row 23: DECR across first two STS. DECR across remaining two STS (2 SC). FO, leaving a tail for
sewing.

PART 5: TEETH (MAKE 10)

The teeth are really little “wads” of four single crochet stitches
that are then sewn together and tugged to take shape.

1. CH 2 and work 4 SC in second CH from hook.

2. FO, leaving a tail for sewing.
3. Using yarn needle and the leftover tail, sew into the
first SC ST (see Figure 7). This effectively wraps
the last SC ST around to touch the first, making a
cylindrical shape.
4. Tug gently with fingers or crochet hook at the
foundation CH STS. This will be the top/point of the
tooth.
Figure 7: Tooth
 PART 6: ARMS (MAKE 2)

The arms are worked from the hands down in a spiral. You
may choose to make your arms longer or shorter, depending
on your own tastes.

Round 1: CH 4. 2 SC in second CH from hook, SC in next

and then work 4 SC in the remaining CH ST. Rotate work 180
degrees so that the opposite loops of the chain now face top.
SC in next ST and work 2 SC in the final ST (10 SC). Place
stitch marker in the last SC to mark the end of the round.
Rounds 2-3: SC in each ST around (10 SC). MM.
Round 4: *DECR across first two STS, then SC in each of the
next 3 STS. Repeat once from * (8 SC). MM.
Rounds 5: SC in each ST around (8 SC). MM. Figure 8: Arms

Round 6: *DECR across first two STS, then SC in each of the

next 2 STS. Repeat once from * (6 SC). MM.
Round 7: DECR across the first two STS. SC in each of the remaining STS (5 SC). MM.
Rounds 8-22: SC in each ST around (5 SC). MM.
Note: FO after round 22, leaving a tail for sewing.

PART 7: PRELIMINARY ASSEMBLY

It’s finally time to begin assembling your monster!

1. Attach the head (Part 2) to the body (Part 1) ash shown in Figures 9-10.

Figure 9: Attach head. Figure 10: Attach head.

 2. Stuff the base of the body.
TIP: You may want to put some beads or a small bouncy ball in the base of the monster to
give it the added weight it needs to keep from being top heavy. You can get bouncy balls in
supermarket gum ball machines!

3. Using Figure 11 as a guide, slide the back portion of the mouth base (Part 3) into the body
base just below the back of the neck. Make sure the that right side of the throat (Part 4) is
facing out.

Figure 11: Position mouth Figure 12: Sew mouth

4. Stitch the mouth and throat in place (see Figure 12), making sure not to sew through to the
back of the neck (you have ugly black stitches running up the back of your piece).
5. Using the cover image as a guide, sew the monster’s teeth in place.
Note: When sewing the teeth in place, remember that the chain stitches you used to start
the teeth are going to be the points.

6. Continue on with part 8.

PART 8: UPPER LIP

The length of the upper lip is going to vary depending on the yarn you use and hoe tight your
stitches are. To ensure that you have the proper length, use a piece of string to measure from the
point where you tucked the mouth base into the monsters body, up, over and around below the eyes,
and then back down to the opposite side. This is the length you will need to make your foundation
chain.

Row 1: CH 57 (or number needed based on measurement). Turn.

Row 2: SC in second CH from hook and in each across (56 SC). FO, leaving a tail for sewing.
 PART 9: LOWER LIP

The lower lip will be sewn across the bottom of your piece.

Row 1: CH 30. Turn.

Row 2: SC in second CH from hook and in each ST across (29
SC). FO, leaving a tail for sewing.
Row 3: Count in 13 STS on the opposite side of the
foundation chain and attach yarn. Work 1 SC. Work HDC in
each of the next three STS, followed by 1 SC. FO and weave
in end.

Figure 13: Lower lip

PART 10: ASSEMBLY

1. Find the center point of the upper lip and pin in place between your monster’s eyes (see
Figure 14).
2. Sew the upper lip to the gold part of the monster’s body, working your way evenly around
the mouth (see Figure 15).

Figure 14: Upper lip positioning Figure 15: Attach upper lip
3. Following Figure 16, stitch the lower lip in place.

Figure 16: Lower lip positioning Figure 17: Arms with chenille stems

4. Fold a chenille stem in half. Starting at the center, twist the two ends together to make a
single thick stem. Repeat with the second stem.
5. Push the folded end of the chenille stem into one of the arms as shown in Figure 17. Repeat
with the second stem.
6. Push the opposite raw end of the stem into the monster’s body, as shown in Figure 18. Stitch
around where the arm connects to the body. Repeat for the other arm.

Figure 18: Insert stem

Enjoy your
new friend!