International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research

and Science (IJAERS)

Peer-Reviewed Journal
ISSN: 2349-6495(P) | 2456-1908(O)
Vol-11, Issue-9; Sep, 2024
Journal Home Page Available: https://ijaers.com/
Article DOI: https://dx.doi.org/10.22161/ijaers.119.1

The Relationship Between Wave Period, Deep Water

Wave and Breaking Wave Heights, Formulated Using the
Wave Amplitude Function
Syawaluddin Hutahaean
Ocean Engineering Program, Faculty of Civil and Environmental Engineering-Bandung Institute of Technology (ITB), Bandung 40132,
Indonesia
[email protected]

Received: 30 Jul 2024, Abstract— The wave amplitude function is a relational equation that
Receive in revised form: 31 Aug 2024, links wave amplitude with various water wave parameters, such as
wave number, wave angular frequency, and wave constant. This
Accepted: 06 Sep 2024,
function is derived by integrating the Kinematic Free Surface Boundary
Available online: 12 Sep 2024 Condition over time. The wave amplitude function incorporates
©2024 The Author(s). Published by AI breaking characteristics, allowing for the extraction of breaking
Publication. This is an open-access article under parameters, including breaking wave height, breaking wave length, and
the CC BY license breaking water depth, as functions of the wave period. By combining
(https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/). the Euler momentum conservation equation with the wave amplitude
function, a dispersion equation is obtained. This dispersion equation
Keywords— Wave amplitude function, deep
elucidates the relationships between deep water wave height, deep
water and breaking wave height.
water wave length, and deep water depth in relation to the wave period.
The results obtained for both deep water wave height and breaking
wave height are consistent with previous research.

I. INTRODUCTION and wave period is consistent with the research of Komar

Water waves are commonly characterized by two key and Gaughan (1972).
parameters: wave period and wave height. In the context of
short waves, these parameters exhibit a one-to-one These relationships are valuable for both practical
correspondence, meaning that a specific wave period is engineering applications and research purposes. Practically,
directly associated with a corresponding wave height. This they enable quick estimation of deep water wave height and
correlation extends not only to deep water wave heights but breaking wave height based solely on the wave period. In
also to breaking wave heights. the research domain, the ongoing development of water
wave transformation models, including processes like
In this research, the correlation between deep water wave shoaling and breaking, necessitates reliable guidelines or
height and wave period, as well as between breaking wave estimates regarding the relationship between breaking wave
height and wave period, has been systematically analyzed. height and wave period.
The results are presented in the form of equations, tables,
and graphical representations. II. WEIGHTED TAYLOR SERIES AND
WEIGHTING COEFFICIENT
The relationship identified between deep water wave height In this article, a specialized equation and parameters are
and wave period aligns with the findings of Wiegel (1949, introduced that may not be widely recognized, namely the
1964), while the relationship between breaking wave height weighted Taylor series and the associated weighting
coefficients.

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Hutahaean International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Science, 11(9)-2024

The weighted Taylor series is a modified form of the water surface elevation is absent in the integration results,
traditional Taylor series, truncated to a first-order Ƌ𝑜 𝜂
represented as , 𝜂(𝑥, 𝑡) is the water surface elevation
Ƌ𝑡 0
approximation. In this formulation, the contributions of Ƌ2 𝜂
higher-order terms are accounted for by incorporating function. The 2nd order accuracy includes the term , and
Ƌ𝑡 2
weighting coefficients into the first-order differential term. Ƌ3 𝜂
the 3rd order accuracy incorporates the term .
Ƌ𝑡 3
Weighted Taylor series for function 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑡),
Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ𝑓 The outcome of this integration is referred to as the wave
𝑓(𝑥 + 𝛿𝑥, 𝑡 + 𝛿𝑡) = 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑡) + 𝛾𝑡,2 𝛿𝑡 + 𝛾𝑥 𝛿𝑥 amplitude function, which relates several wave parameters:
Ƌ𝑡 Ƌ𝑥
Weighted Taylor series for function 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑡), wave amplitude 𝐴, wave number 𝑘, wave period 𝑇
Ƌ𝑓 2𝜋
𝑓(𝑥 + 𝛿𝑥, 𝑧 + 𝛿𝑧, 𝑡 + 𝛿𝑡) = 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) + 𝛾𝑡,3 𝛿𝑡 (expressed through the wave angular frequency 𝜎 = and
𝑇
Ƌ𝑡
Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ𝑓 the wave constant 𝐺.
+𝛾𝑥 𝛿𝑥 + 𝛾𝑧 𝛿𝑧 In the initial phase of this research, the focus is on the wave
Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑧
The weighting coefficients 𝛾𝑡,2 , 𝛾𝑡,3 , 𝛾𝑥 and 𝛾𝑧 are assigned amplitude function derived from the 0th order accuracy
integration. This research examines various aspects of wave
base values of 𝛾𝑡,2 = 2.0, 𝛾𝑡,3 = 3.0, 𝛾𝑥 = 1.0 and 𝛾𝑧 =1.0.
parameters, including deep water wave height 𝐻0 , deep
There is no distinction between 𝛾𝑥 in the function
water wavelength, critical deep water wave steepness,
𝑓(𝑥, 𝑡) and 𝛾𝑥 in the function 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡). The adjusted values
breaking wave height, breaking wavelength, and breaking
of the weighting coefficients are functions of 𝜀, the
water depth. The wave amplitude function resulting from
optimization coefficient, as detailed in Table 1. The method
the 0th order accuracy integration is as follows:
for calculating these weighting coefficients is described in
2𝐺𝑘 tanh 𝜃𝜋 𝑘𝐴
Hutahaean (2023). For the purposes of this research, 𝜀 is set 𝐴= cosh 𝜃𝜋 ( − ) ……..(1)
𝛾𝑡,2 𝜎 √𝛾𝑧 2
to 0.01.
𝐴 : wave amplitude
Table 1. Corrected weighting coefficients values.
𝐺 : wave constant
𝜀 𝛾𝑡,2 𝛾𝑡,3 𝛾𝑥 𝛾𝑧 𝜎: angular frequency, 𝜎 =
2𝜋
, 𝑇 is wave period.
𝑇
0.010 1.9998 3.00465 0.99879 1.01093 𝑘: is wave number
0.011 1.99975 3.00563 0.99854 1.01325 𝛾𝑡,2 and 𝛾𝑧 : are weighting coefficients
𝜃: deep water coefficient, where tanh 𝜃𝜋 ≈ 1.
0.012 1.99971 3.00671 0.99826 1.0158
0.013 1.99966 3.00788 0.99795 1.01858 The dispersion equation in deep water is derived from
0.014 1.99960 3.00915 0.99763 1.02159 Euler's momentum conservation equation, under the
assumption of negligible convective acceleration, and
0.015 1.99954 3.01052 0.99727 1.02484
utilizing the wave amplitude function (Hutahaean, 2024).
0.016 1.99948 3.01198 0.9969 1.02832 The resulting dispersion equation is as follows:
0.017 1.99941 3.01355 0.99649 1.03205 𝑔𝐴
𝑘2 −
𝑔 tanh 𝜃𝜋
𝑘 + 𝛾𝑡,2 𝛾𝑡,3 𝜎 2 = 0 ……(2)
2 √𝛾𝑧
0.018 1.99934 3.01521 0.99607 1.03601
𝑔 gravitational acceleration and 𝑘 wave number.
0.019 1.99926 3.01697 0.99561 1.04022
0.020 1.99918 3.01883 0.99514 1.04468 3.1. The relationship between wave period and deep water
wave height
In this work, a Cartesian coordinate system is employed, The relationship between wave period and deep water wave
with 𝑥 representing the horizontal axis and 𝑧 denoting the height, deep water wavelength and critical deep water wave
vertical axis. steepness is formulated using (2).

III. RESEARCH ON WAVE AMPLITUDE The determinant value of (2) is,

FUNCTION INTEGRATION RESULTS OF 𝑔2 tanh2 𝜃𝜋
𝑑= − 2 𝑔𝐴𝛾𝑡,2 𝛾𝑡,3 𝜎 2
ORDER 0 𝛾𝑧
Given that the variable in the determinant equation is the
Hutahaean (2024) integrated the Kinematic Free Surface
wave amplitude 𝐴, and the wave period remains constant,
Boundary Condition with respect to time using three levels
there exists a maximum value of wave amplitude at which
of accuracy: 0th order, 2nd order, and 3rd order accuracy.
the determinant equals zero.
The 0th order accuracy implies that the differential of the

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Hutahaean International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Science, 11(9)-2024

𝑔2 tanh2 𝜃𝜋 Since 𝐻0 represents the maximum wave height, the wave

− 2 𝑔𝐴𝛾𝑡,2 𝛾𝑡,3 𝜎 2 = 0 𝐻0
𝛾𝑧 steepness defined as can be referred to as the critical
𝐿0
Obtaining 𝐴𝑚𝑎𝑥 , 𝐻0
wave steepness. The calculation results indicate that is
𝑔 tanh2 𝜃𝜋 𝐿0
𝐴𝑚𝑎𝑥 = 𝐻0
𝛾𝑧 𝛾𝑡,2 𝛾𝑡,3 𝜎 2 consistent across all wave periods, yielding a value of =
𝐿0
Or for 𝐻 = 2 𝐴, 0.315. In comparison, the critical wave steepness reported
2 𝑔 tanh2 𝜃𝜋 𝐻0
𝐻𝑚𝑎𝑥 = by Toffoli et al. (2010), which is = 0.170 suggests that
𝛾𝑧 𝛾𝑡,2 𝛾𝑡,3 𝜎 2 𝐿0

This equation represents the relationship between wave the critical wave steepness derived in this research is
height and wave period. For each wave period, there relatively high, although Toffoli et al. indicate that it can
corresponds a unique wave height. Thus, it can be stated that reach up to 0.20.
for a given wave period, there is a specific wave height of: Table 2. Deep water wave parameter.
𝑇 𝐻0 𝐿0 ℎ0 𝐻0
2 𝑔 tanh2 𝜃𝜋
𝐻0 = ……..(3) (sec) (m) (m) (m) 𝐿0
𝛾𝑧 𝛾𝑡,2 𝛾𝑡,3 𝜎 2

The index 0 on 𝐻 indicates that the wave height refers to a 4 0.646 2.052 1.839 0.315
condition unaffected by the sea bottom, representing the 5 1.009 3.206 2.874 0.315
wave height in deep water. 6 1.453 4.617 4.138 0.315
7 1.978 6.284 5.633 0.315
When the determinant value is zero, the wave number in
deep water, which is the root of equation (2), is given by: 8 2.583 8.208 7.357 0.315
9 3.269 10.388 9.311 0.315
2 tanh 𝜃𝜋
𝑘0 = …..(4) 10 4.036 12.825 11.495 0.315
𝐻0 √𝛾𝑧

11 4.884 15.518 13.909 0.315

𝜋𝐻0 √𝛾𝑧
𝐿0 = …..(5) 12 5.812 18.468 16.553 0.315
tanh 𝜃𝜋

Substituting 𝐻0 from equations (4) and (5) with the value 13 6.821 21.674 19.427 0.315
obtained from equation (3) yields a direct relationship 14 7.911 25.137 22.531 0.315
between deep water wavelength and wave period.
15 9.082 28.856 25.865 0.315

The deep water depth ℎ0 can then be calculated using the 16 10.333 32.832 29.428 0.315
wave number conservation equation as detailed in 17 11.665 37.064 33.222 0.315
Hutahaean (2023):
18 13.078 41.553 37.245 0.315
𝐴
𝑘 (ℎ + ) = 𝜃𝜋 …..(6)
2
Where ℎ is water depth. Therefore, deep water depth ℎ0 is,
Wiegel (1949, 1964) formulated an equation to describe the
𝜃𝜋 𝐻0
ℎ𝑜 = − relationship between deep water wave height and wave
𝑘0 4
period as follows:,
The term "deep water" refers to the minimum water depth
𝑔𝑇 2
at which waves remain unaffected by the seabed. Both 𝐻0−𝑊𝑖𝑒𝑔 = m. ….(7)
15.62
𝑘0 and 𝐻0 are functions of the wave period, indicating that The comparison with the Wiegel’s equation is presented in
ℎ0 is likewise dependent on the wave period. Table 3 and illustrated in Figure 1, where the calculations
The calculated values of deep water wave height 𝐻0 deep were performed using the parameters 𝜃 = 1.928 and 𝜀 =
water wavelength 𝐿0 , and minimum deep water depth ℎ0 are 0.01.
presented in Table 2. The calculations were conducted using As shown in both Table 3 and Figure 1, the difference
𝜃 = 1.928 and 𝜀 = 0.01. It is noted that the impact of the between the results is minimal, with a variance of only
deep water coefficient 𝜃 on the deep water wave height is 0.131%. In Figure 1, the graphs representing 𝐻0 and
minimal and can therefore be disregarded. The selection of 𝐻0−𝑊𝑖𝑒𝑔 overlap.
𝜃 = 1.94 is associated with the breaking water depth, which
will be explored in a subsequent section.

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Table 3. Comparison to Wiegel’s Equation (1949,1964) 𝐸 = 𝑐𝐸 𝜌𝑔 𝐻2 𝐿

𝐻0−𝑊𝑖𝑒𝑔 𝑐𝐸 energy coefficient, based on linear wave theory (Dean
𝑇 𝐻0 𝐻0 − 𝐻0−𝑊𝑖𝑒𝑔 1
𝑥100% (1991)), 𝑐𝐸 = . 𝜌 water mass density.
(sec) (m) (m) 𝐻0−𝑊𝑖𝑒𝑔 8

4 0.646 0.645 0.131 The results of the shoaling-breaking research using a

5 1.009 1.008 0.131 numerical model with the wave amplitude function of order
6 1.453 1.451 0.131 0 indicate a loss of wave energy as the wave travels from
deep water to the breaking point. Therefore, the relationship
7 1.978 1.975 0.131 between the wave energy at the breaking point and the wave
8 2.583 2.58 0.131 energy in deep water is expressed as follows:
9 3.269 3.265 0.131
𝐸𝑏 = 0.776𝐸0
10 4.036 4.031 0.131
11 4.884 4.878 0.131 𝐻𝑏2 𝐿𝑏 = 0.776𝐻02 𝐿0
12 5.812 5.805 0.131
Substitute (5)
13 6.821 6.812 0.131
14 7.911 7.901 0.131 𝜋√𝛾𝑧
𝐻𝑏2 𝐿𝑏 = 0.776𝐻03 …..(8)
tanh 𝜃𝜋
15 9.082 9.07 0.131
To determine 𝐿𝑏 , the wave amplitude function equation (1)
16 10.333 10.32 0.131 is used, which includes the breaking characteristic given by:
17 11.665 11.65 0.131 tanh 𝜃𝜋 𝑘𝐴
− =0
18 13.078 13.061 0.131 √𝛾𝑧 2
Using the index b for breaking, thus,
𝑘𝑏 𝐴𝑏 tanh 𝜃𝜋
15 =
2 𝜋√𝛾𝑧
H0 & H0-Wieg (m)

10 2𝜋
Given that 𝑘𝑏 = dan 𝐻 = 2 𝐴, the relation is:
𝐿𝑏
𝐻𝑏 2 tanh 𝜃𝜋
5 = ….(9)
𝐿𝑏 𝜋√𝛾𝑧
Or,
0
𝐻𝑏 𝜋√𝛾𝑧
4 9 14 19 𝐿𝑏 =
2 tanh 𝜃𝜋
T (sec)
Substituting into (8)
𝐻𝑏 𝜋√𝛾𝑧 𝜋√𝛾𝑧
H0 H0-Wieg 𝐻𝑏2 = 0.776𝐻03
2 tanh 𝜃𝜋 tanh 𝜃𝜋
1
Fig.1: Comparison between 𝐻0 to 𝐻0−𝑊𝑖𝑒𝑔 𝐻𝑏 = 𝐻0 1.5523

Substituting 𝐻0 from (3)

The purpose of this comparison is to demonstrate that 1
previous research findings exhibit similar characteristics to 2 𝑔 tanh2 𝜃𝜋 1.5523
𝐻𝑏 =
those observed in this research. It is important to note that 𝛾𝑧 𝛾𝑡,2 𝛾𝑡,3 𝜎 2
this research does not aim to derive an equation that The final equation establishes a direct relationship between
replicates the wave height-wave period relationship the breaking wave height and the wave period.
described by the Wiegel’s equation.
To determine the breaking water depth, the wave number
3.1. Relationship between wave period and breaking wave conservation equation (6) is employed at the breaking point.
height This calculation utilizes the breaking wave height as a key
The relationship between breaking wave height and deep parameter.
water wave height can be described using the principle of
energy relationship. The wave energy equation, as 𝜃𝜋 𝐻𝑏
ℎ𝑏 = −
formulated by Dean (1991), for one wavelength is given by: 𝑘𝑏 4

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Hutahaean International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Science, 11(9)-2024

Table 5. Comparison with the Breaking Wave Height

In the subsequent section, the results of the calculations for Equation from Komar and Gaughan
the breaking parameters are presented, utilizing the 𝑇 𝐻0 𝐻𝑏 𝐻𝑏−𝐾𝐺 𝛿
calculation parameters 𝜀 = 0.01 and 𝜃 = 1.928. The
selection of 𝜃 = 1.928 is intended to achieve a value of (sec) (m) (m) (m) (%)
𝐻𝑏 4 0.646 0.748 0.756 1.047
= 0.78, which is a widely accepted criterion established
ℎ𝑏
by McCowan (1894). Decreasing the value of 𝜃 increases 5 1.009 1.168 1.181 1.047
𝐻𝑏 𝐻𝑏
whereas increasing 𝜃 reduces . However, the effect of 6 1.453 1.682 1.7 1.047
ℎ𝑏 ℎ𝑏
𝜃 on both 𝐻0 and 𝐻𝑏 is minimal, and it can be considered 7 1.978 2.29 2.314 1.047
𝐻𝑏
negligible. The value of can be calculated using equation 8 2.583 2.991 3.023 1.047
𝐿𝑏
(9), yielding a constant value of 0.633. 9 3.269 3.785 3.825 1.047
Table 4. Breaking parameter calculation results. 10 4.036 4.673 4.723 1.047
𝑇 𝐻0 𝐻𝑏 𝐿𝑏 ℎ𝑏 𝐻𝑏 11 4.884 5.655 5.714 1.047
(sec.) (m) (m) (m) (m) ℎ𝑏
12 5.812 6.729 6.801 1.047
4 0.646 0.748 1.188 0.958 0.78
13 6.821 7.898 7.981 1.047
5 1.009 1.168 1.856 1.497 0.78
14 7.911 9.16 9.256 1.047
6 1.453 1.682 2.673 2.156 0.78
15 9.082 10.515 10.626 1.047
7 1.978 2.29 3.638 2.935 0.78
16 10.333 11.963 12.09 1.047
8 2.583 2.991 4.752 3.833 0.78
17 11.665 13.506 13.649 1.047
9 3.269 3.785 6.014 4.851 0.78
18 13.078 15.141 15.301 1.047
10 4.036 4.673 7.424 5.989 0.78
11 4.884 5.655 8.983 7.246 0.78 𝐻𝑏 −𝐻𝑏−𝐾𝐺
Note : 𝛿 = 𝑥 100 %
𝐻𝑏−𝐾𝐺
12 5.812 6.729 10.691 8.624 0.78
13 6.821 7.898 12.547 10.121 0.78 20
14 7.911 9.16 14.552 11.738 0.78
15
15 9.082 10.515 16.705 13.475 0.78
H (m)

10
16 10.333 11.963 19.006 15.331 0.78
17 11.665 13.506 21.456 17.308 0.78 5
18 13.078 15.141 24.055 19.404 0.78 0
4 9 14 19
T (sec)
Subsequently, a comparative analysis was performed using
the breaking wave height equation proposed by Komar and
Gaughan (1972), which is given by: H0 Hb Hb-KG
1⁄ 2
𝐻𝑏−𝐾𝐺 = 0.39 𝑔 5 (𝑇0 𝐻02 ) ⁄5 …..(10) Fig.2: The comparison of breaking wave heights.
The results of this comparison are detailed in Table (5) and
illustrated in Figure (2). The analysis reveals a consistent This research employs a zero-order wave amplitude
relative difference of 1.047%. function to derive simplified relationships between the
wave period and various parameters: deep water wave
height 𝐻0 , deep water wavelength 𝐿0 , deep water depth ℎ0 ,
𝐻0
and the wave steepness criterion . It also establishes
𝐿0
relationships with breaking wave height 𝐻𝑏 , breaking
wavelength 𝐿𝑏 , breaking water depth 𝐻𝑏 , and breaking
𝐻𝑏
wave steepness .
𝐿𝑏

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Hutahaean International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Science, 11(9)-2024

amplitude value. Initially, the wave number 𝑘 is

Comparisons with deep water wave height estimates from approximated using a simplified equation, which provides
Wiegel and breaking wave height calculations from Komar an estimated value of 𝑘. Following this approximation, the
and Gaughan reveal that the results of this research are Newton-Raphson method is employed to refine the value of
consistent with, or closely approximate, those of previous 𝑘 by applying it to the complete dispersion equation. This
research. two-stage approach enhances the accuracy of the calculated
wave number 𝑘 for the given wave amplitude 𝐴.
IV. RESEARCH ON WAVE AMPLITUDE
FUNCTION RESULT OF 3RD ORDER The calculation results using 𝜃 = 1.3395, 𝜀 = 0.01 are
INTEGRATION presented in Table (6).
The wave amplitude function, derived from integrating the
Kinematic Free Surface Boundary Condition with third- Table 6. Results of Wave Parameter Calculations in Deep
order accuracy (Hutahaean, 2024), is given by: Water.
2𝐺𝑘𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ 𝜃𝜋
𝐴= 𝛼𝑘𝐴 …..(11) 𝑇 𝐻0 𝐿0 ℎ0 𝐻0
𝜎𝛾𝑡,2
(sec) (m) (m) (m) 𝐿0
𝑡𝑎𝑛ℎ 𝜃𝜋 3 3
𝛼𝑘𝐴 = +( − ) 𝑘𝐴 − 4 0.68 2.735 1.661 0.249
√𝛾𝑧 2𝛾𝑧 2
𝑘 2 𝐴2 1 1 𝑘 3 𝐴3 5 1.063 4.262 2.588 0.249
𝑡𝑎𝑛ℎ 𝜃𝜋 + ( 2 − )
2√𝛾𝑥 √𝛾𝑧 𝛾𝑧 𝛾𝑧 8 6 1.53 6.129 3.721 0.25
The dispersion equation of third order is expressed as 7 2.083 8.291 5.03 0.251
8 2.721 10.85 6.584 0.251
3 2
1 1 𝐴 𝑡𝑎𝑛ℎ 𝜃𝜋 𝐴 3 1 3 9 3.443 13.746 8.342 0.25
( 2
− ) 𝑘4 − 𝑘 +( − ) 𝐴𝑘 2
𝛾𝑧 𝛾𝑧 8 2√𝛾𝑥 √𝛾𝑧 2𝛾𝑧 2 10 4.251 16.935 10.275 0.251
2
𝑡𝑎𝑛ℎ 𝜃𝜋 𝛾𝑡,3 𝛾𝑡,3 𝜎 11 5.144 20.46 12.412 0.251
+ 𝑘− =0 … … . . (12)
√𝛾𝑧 𝑔 12 6.122 24.326 14.756 0.252
13 7.184 28.538 17.31 0.252
4.1. The calculation of deep water wave height 𝐻0 .
14 8.332 33.088 20.069 0.252
Equation (12) exhibits a characteristic where there is a
15 9.565 37.941 23.01 0.252
maximum wave amplitude value, 𝐴𝑚𝑎𝑥 beyond which any
further increase in amplitude results in a wave number value 16 10.883 43.246 26.232 0.252
that becomes zero or negative. This suggests that Equation 17 12.287 48.746 29.564 0.252
(12) has a discontinuity at 𝐴𝑚𝑎𝑥 .
18 13.775 54.682 33.166 0.252
To determine 𝐴𝑚𝑎𝑥 , calculations are performed iteratively,
starting from a small wave amplitude value and
The values of 𝐻0 and 𝐿0 calculated using the third-order
incrementally increasing it by a small amount. In this
dispersion equation are larger than those obtained from the
research, an increment of 0.0001 is used until 𝐴𝑚𝑎𝑥 . is
zeroth-order dispersion equation. Additionally, the critical
obtained. 𝐻0
wave steepness is smaller for the third-order results,
𝐿0
Given that the equation is a fourth-degree polynomial, the
Newton-Raphson method is employed for the iterative averaging 0.250, compared to the zeroth-order result of
𝐻0
calculation. To initiate the iteration, the equation is = 0.315. Thus, the critical wave steepness derived from
𝐿0
simplified by assuming that 𝑘 3 and 𝑘 4 are negligibly small, the third-order calculation is closer to the criteria proposed
reducing the problem to a second-degree polynomial, which 𝐻0
by Toffoli et al. (2010), which range from =0.17-0.2.
𝐿0
is expressed as follows:
However, it is important to note that this research does not
1 3 𝑡𝑎𝑛ℎ 𝜃𝜋 𝛾𝑡,3 𝛾𝑡,3 𝜎 2
( − ) 𝐴𝑘 2 + 𝑘− =0 aim to match the critical wave steepness criteria set by
2𝛾𝑧 2 √𝛾𝑧 𝑔
Toffoli et al.
In this equation, there are two values of 𝑘 for each wave
amplitude 𝐴 and positive value is selected. Consequently,
the calculation process involves two stages for each wave

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Hutahaean International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Science, 11(9)-2024

Table 7. The Comparison between 𝐻0 and 𝐻0−𝑊𝑖𝑒𝑔 . 4.2. Calculation of breaking parameters 𝐻𝑏 , 𝐿𝑏 and ℎ𝑏

𝑇 𝐻0 𝐻0−𝑊𝑖𝑒𝑔 𝐻0 − 𝐻0−𝑤𝑖𝑒𝑔 The calculation of breaking parameters is performed using

𝑥100% the breaking characteristics outlined in Equation (11):
(sec) (m) (m) 𝐻0−𝑤𝑖𝑒𝑔
4 0.68 0.645 5.431
𝑡𝑎𝑛ℎ 𝜃𝜋 3 3 𝑘 2 𝐴2
5 1.063 1.008 5.441 +( − ) 𝑘𝐴 − 𝑡𝑎𝑛ℎ 𝜃𝜋
√𝛾𝑧 2𝛾𝑧 2 2√𝛾𝑥 √𝛾𝑧
6 1.53 1.451 5.445 1 1 𝑘 3 𝐴3
+( − ) =0 ……….(13)
𝛾𝑧2 𝛾𝑧 8
7 2.083 1.975 5.457
8 2.721 2.58 5.454 This equation is a third-degree polynomial, which
9 3.443 3.265 5.453 precludes the formulation of a simple equation for breaking
10 4.251 4.031 5.456 wave steepness. However, the equation allows for the
calculation of the 𝑘𝐴 value under breaking conditions. For
11 5.144 4.878 5.458 example:
12 6.122 5.805 5.459 𝑘𝑏 𝐴 𝑏 = 𝛼
13 7.184 6.812 5.459 Therefore,
𝐻𝑏 𝛼
14 8.332 7.901 5.462 =
𝐿𝑏 𝜋
15 9.565 9.07 5.463 Or,
𝜋𝐻𝑏
16 10.883 10.32 5.464 𝐿𝑏 = …..(14)
𝛼

17 12.287 11.65 5.466 The calculation process is carried out in stages. In the first
18 13.775 13.061 5.469 stage, a second-degree polynomial approximation is applied
by neglecting the term containing 𝑘 3 𝐴3 in equation (13),
under the assumption that this term is negligible.
15
𝑡𝑎𝑛ℎ 𝜃𝜋 3 3 𝑘 2 𝐴2
H0 & H0-Wieg (m)

+( − ) 𝑘𝐴 − 𝑡𝑎𝑛ℎ 𝜃𝜋 = 0
√𝛾𝑧 2𝛾𝑧 2 2√𝛾𝑥 √𝛾𝑧
10
This equation has two roots, with the smallest 𝑘𝐴 value
5 being selected. Using this initial result, further calculations
are performed with equation (13) using the Newton-
0 Raphson iteration method.
4 9 14 19 The results of the shoaling-breaking research using a
T (sec) numerical model with the wave amplitude function of order
3 indicate a loss of wave energy as the wave travels from
H0 H0-Wieg deep water to the breaking point. Therefore, the relationship
between the wave energy at the breaking point and the wave
Fig.3: The Comparison between 𝐻0 and 𝐻0−𝑊𝑖𝑒𝑔 energy in deep water is expressed as follows:
𝐸𝑏 = 0.8 𝐸0
Next, the wave height 𝐻0 is compared with the deep water Once the 𝛼 value is determined, the breaking wave height
wave height 𝐻0−𝑊𝑖𝑒𝑔 from Wiegel, as presented in Table 7 Hb is calculated using the energy conservation equation:
and Figure 3. The average difference between 𝐻0 and 𝐻𝑏2 𝐿𝑏 = 0.8 𝐻02 𝐿0
𝐻0−𝑊𝑖𝑒𝑔 is 5.45%, whereas the difference using the zeroth- Substituting 𝐿𝑏 ,
order dispersion equation is only 0.131%. It is important to 0.8𝛼 2
note that this research does not aim to replicate Wiegel’s 𝐻𝑏3 = 𝐻0 𝐿0
𝜋
(1949, 1964) deep water wave height results precisely. The
With the obtained 𝐻𝑏 value, 𝐿𝑏 can be calculated using
comparison serves to demonstrate that the findings are in
equation (14), and the breaking water depth is determined
general agreement with existing research.
with the wave number conservation equation:
𝜃𝜋 𝐻𝑏
ℎ𝑏 = −
𝑘𝑏 4

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Hutahaean International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Science, 11(9)-2024

7 2.083 2.327 2.412 3.541

Table (8) presents the results of the breaking parameter
8 2.721 3.041 3.15 3.48
calculations. These calculations were performed with 𝜀 =
𝐻𝑏 9 3.443 3.85 3.987 3.446
0.01 dan 𝜃 = 1.3395. This value of 𝜃 yields = 0.781,
ℎ𝑏
10 4.251 4.75 4.923 3.513
which differs from the zero-order calculation, which
𝐻𝑏 11 5.144 5.744 5.956 3.562
requires 𝜃 = 1.928 to achieve = 0.78. The calculated
ℎ𝑏
𝐻𝑏 12 6.122 6.834 7.089 3.592
breaking wave steepness is = 0.438, which is smaller
𝐿𝑏
𝐻𝑏
13 7.184 8.019 8.319 3.604
than the zero-order breaking wave steepness of = 0.633.
𝐿𝑏 14 8.332 9.298 9.649 3.637
Table 8. Results of Calculation of Breaking Parameters
15 9.565 10.67 11.076 3.667
with Wave Amplitude Function Accuracy of Order 3
16 10.883 12.149 12.603 3.595
𝑇 𝐻𝑏 𝐿𝑏 ℎ𝑏 𝐻𝑏 𝐻𝑏
(sec) (m) (m) (m) 𝐿𝑏 ℎ𝑏 17 12.287 13.709 14.227 3.644

4 0.68 0.762 0.976 0.438 0.781 18 13.775 15.374 15.951 3.617

5 1.063 1.19 1.524 0.438 0.781

𝐻𝑏 −𝐻𝑏−𝐾𝐺
Note : 𝛿 = 𝑥100%
6 1.53 1.713 2.193 0.438 0.781 𝐻𝑏−𝐾𝐺

7 2.083 2.327 2.979 0.438 0.781

20
8 2.721 3.041 3.894 0.438 0.781
9 3.443 3.85 4.93 0.438 0.781 15
H (m)

10 4.251 4.75 6.082 0.438 0.781 10

11 5.144 5.744 7.356 0.438 0.781 5
12 6.122 6.834 8.751 0.438 0.781 0
13 7.184 8.019 10.269 0.438 0.781 4 9 14 19
14 8.332 9.298 11.906 0.438 0.781 T (sec)
15 9.565 10.67 13.664 0.438 0.781
H0 Hb Hb-KG
16 10.883 12.149 15.558 0.438 0.781
17 12.287 13.709 17.555 0.438 0.781 Fig.4: The comparison between 𝐻𝑏 and 𝐻𝑏−𝐾𝐺
18 13.775 15.374 19.687 0.438 0.781
The research on breaking wave height, utilizing a third-
order wave amplitude function, yielded results that differ
Next, the breaking wave height is compared with the from the breaking wave height values provided by Komar
breaking wave height from the Komar-Gaughan equation and Gaughan, with an average difference of 3.5%. Given
(10). The results of this comparison are detailed in Table (9) this relatively small discrepancy, the relationship between
and illustrated in Figure (4). The average difference breaking wave height and wave period can be effectively
between the two measurements is 3.5%, with 𝐻𝑏 applied using either of the two methods.
consistently smaller than 𝐻𝑏−𝐾𝐺 .
Table 9. Comparison between 𝐻𝑏 and the breaking height V. CONCLUSIONS
Komar-Gaughan 𝐻𝑏−𝐾𝐺 . The analysis concludes that the relationship between deep
water wave height and wave period shows qualitative
𝑇 𝐻0 𝐻𝑏 𝐻𝑏−𝐾𝐺 𝛿
consistency across the three methods examined: the zero-
(sec) (m) (m) (m) (% order wave amplitude function, the third-order
4 0.68 0.762 0.787 3.214 approximation, and the Wiegel’s method. Despite this
similarity in quality, the quantitative results suggest that one
5 1.063 1.19 1.231 3.301
of these methods should be chosen for practical
6 1.53 1.713 1.772 3.342 applications.

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Hutahaean International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Science, 11(9)-2024

Between the zero-order and third-order approximations, the

third-order method is preferred for its superior accuracy in
representing critical deep water wave steepness, aligning
more closely with other research findings.
For breaking wave height, the zero-order approximation,
third-order method, and Komar-Gaughan approach are
qualitatively equivalent. However, the selection of a method
should be based on quantitative considerations.
In terms of breaking wave steepness, the third-order
approximation provides more accurate results than the zero-
order method.
For practical and engineering applications, the zero-order
wave amplitude function is recommended due to its
simplicity and ease of implementation.
The wave energy equation utilized in this study is based on
a sinusoidal wave profile. However, given that the wave
profile at larger wave heights tends to be cnoidal or solitary,
it is essential to develop a wave energy equation tailored to
these wave profiles.

REFERENCES
[1] Wiegel,R.L. (1949). An Analysisis of Data from Wave
Recorders on the Pacific Coast of tht United States,
Trans.Am. Geophys. Union, Vol.30, pp.700-704.
[2] Wiegel,R.L. (1964). Oceanographical Engineering, Prentice-
Hall, Englewoods Cliffs, N.J.
[3] Komar, P.D. & Gaughan M.K. (1972). Airy Wave Theory
and Breaker Height Prediction, Coastal Engineering
Proceedings, 1 (13).
[4] Hutahaean, S. (2023). Method for Determining Weighting
Coefficients in Weighted Taylor Series Applied to Water
Wave Modeling. International Journal of Advance
Engineering Research and Science (IJAERS). Vol. 10, Issue
12; Dec, 2023, pp 105-114. Article DOI:
https://dx.doi.org/10.22161/ijaers.1012.11.
[5] Hutahaean, S. (2024). Enhance of Integration of Kinematic
Free Surface Boundary Conditiom to Third Order Accuracy
for Wave Transformation Modeling. International Journal of
Advance Engineering Research and Science (IJAERS). Vol.
11, Issue 7; Jul, 2024, pp 55-67. Article DOI:
https://dx.doi.org/10.22161/ijaers.117.6.
[6] Toffoli, A., Babanin, A., Onaroto, M. and Wased, T. (2010).
Maximum steepness of oceanic waves : Field and laboratory
experiments.Geophysical Research Letters. First published
09 March 2010.https://doi.org/10.1029/2009GL.0441771
[7] Dean, R.G., Dalrymple, R.A. (1991). Water wave
menchanics for engineers and scientists. Advance Series on
Ocean Engineering.2. Singapore: World Scientific. ISBN
978-981-02-0420-4. OCLC 22907242.
[8] Mc Cowan, J. (1894). On the highest waves of a permanent
th
type, Philosophical Magazine, Edinburgh 38, 5 Series, pp.
351-358.

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