HERBAL COSMETICS

MPG 204

Herbal / Natural Cosmetics

Classification & Economic Aspects
Introduction

The word cosmetic was acquired from the Greek word “kosm tikos” meaning having the power,
order and skill in decorating. Beginning 1990’s cosmetic manufacturer redesign a term
‘cosmeceuticals’ to describe the OTC skin care products that claims therapeutic benefit by
addition of plant based ingredient which serves many purposes viz. increase in skin
elasticity ,delay in skin aging by reducing the wrinkles, protection against UV radiation by
antioxidant property and to check degradation of collagen respectively.

Herbal cosmetics are also known as “natural cosmetics”. The demand of herbal medicines is
increasing rapidly due to their lack of side effects. With the beginning of the civilization;
humankind had the attractive plunge towards impressing others with their looks. At the time,
there were no fancy fairness creams or any cosmetic surgeries. To begin with just thing they had
was the information of nature, aggregated in the Ayurveda. With the art of Ayurveda, a few
herbs and floras were used to make Ayurvedic cosmetics that truly worked. Ayurvedic cosmetics
not only beautified the skin but acted as the shield against any kind of external affects for the
body.
“The cosmetics, according to the Drugs and Cosmetic Act is defined as articles intended to be
rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, introduced into or otherwise applied to the human body
or any part there for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance.
The cosmetic does not come under the preview of drug license.” Why Herbal Cosmetics: -

Apart from having numerous health benefits, the constituents of herbal cosmetics provide
nutrients to applied areas, moreover, they are safe and they combine traditional systems with
modern scientific approaches. At the point when herbs are taken, the body begins to get purified,
it gets decontaminating itself. Unlike chemically synthesized, highly concentrated drugs that may
produce many side effects, herbs can effectively realign the body’ defenses.

Herbal cosmetics is fastest growing segment of the beauty industry. Cosmeceuticals are
cosmetic-pharmaceutical products intended to improve the health and beauty of the skin by
providing a specific result, ranging from acne-control and antiwrinkle effects, to sun protection.

Advantages of Herbal Cosmetics

Herbs are important for their disease prevention and health promotion properties having
following advantages described below:
1 Natural product
Herbal cosmetics are natural and free from all the harmful synthetic chemicals which generally
may turn out to be lethal to the skin.
2 Safe to use
Natural cosmetics are protected to utilize. They are hypoallergenic and tested and proven by
dermatologists to be safe to use anytime, anywhere. Since they are made of natural ingredients,
people don’t have to worry about getting skin rashes or experience skin itchiness.
3. Compatible with all skin types
No matter if you are dark or fair; you will find natural cosmetics like foundation, eye shadow,
and lipstick which are appropriate irrespective of your skin tone. Women with oily or sensitive
skin can also use them and never have to worry about degrading their skin condition.
4. Wide selection to choose from
These products are more affordable than synthetic ones. They are offered at economical prices
and are sold for a cheap price during sales. An estimate of WHO demonstrates about 80% of
world population depends on natural products for their health care, because of side effects
inflicted and rising cost of modern
medicine.
5. No side effects
The synthetic beauty products can irritate your skin, and cause pimples. They might block your
pores and make your skin dry or oily. With natural cosmetics, one need not worry about these.
The natural ingredients used assure no side effects; one can apply them anytime, anywhere.
6. Cosmeceutical
Cosmeceuticals is fastest growing segment of the beauty industry. Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic-
pharmaceutical products intended to improve the health and beauty of the skin by providing a
specific result, ranging from acne-control and antiwrinkle effects, to sun protection.

CLASSIFICATION

Herbal cosmetics are classified as under:

A) Dosage form
1. Emulsion: cold cream, vanishing cream, liquid cream
2. Powders: face powder, talcum powder, tooth powder
3. Cakes: rouge compacts, make-up cakes
4. Oils: hair oils
5. Mucilages: hand lotion
6. Jellies: hand jelly, wave set jelly and brilliantine jelly
7. Suspensions: cosmetic stockings
8. Paste: toothpaste, deodorant paste
9. Soaps: shampoo soap, shaving soap, toilet soap
10. Solutions: after shave lotions, hair set lotions, lotions

B) Part or organ of the body to be applied for

A) Dosage form
1. Powders: Face powder, tooth powder, talcum powder
2. Paste: toothpaste, deodorant paste

Classification of pastes:
• Fatty paste
• Aqueous paste
• Hydrocolloidal paste

3. Emulsion: cold cream, vanishing cream, liquid cream

Classification of creams:
1. Aqueous creams (o/w creams)
• Anionic emulsifying agent
• Cationic emulsifying agent
• Non-ionic emulsifying agent

2. Oily creams (w/o creams)

• Sterol creams
• Soap creams

4. Cakes: make-up cakes, rouge compacts

5. Oils: hair oils

6. Mucilages: hand lotion

7. Gels: Classification based on use

• Medicated gels
• Lubricating gels
• Miscellaneous gels

8. Suspensions: cosmetic stockings

9. Soaps: shampoo soap, shaving soaps, toilet soap

10. Solutions: after shave lotions, hair set lotions, lotions

C) Part or organ of the body to be applied for

Herbal cosmetics used for skin
• Powders: Face powder, body powder, compact powder, prickling heat powder • Solid and
liquid creams: - cold creams, vanishing cream, cleansing cream, emollient cream, foundation
cream, all-purpose cream • Lotions: - Astringent lotion • Deodorants • Bath and cleansing
preparation • Make -up • Suntan preparations • Lipstick • Colorants

Herbal cosmetics used for hair

• Hair dressing • Hair remover • Depilator • Epilator • Shaving cream • Hair wave preparations •
Hair conditioner • Shampoos • Hair dyes and lotions • Eye lash (mascara) • Eye brow pencil •
Eye lid inside

Herbal cosmetics used for nails

• Nail lacquers • Lacquers remover • Nail polish • Cuticle remover • Manicure preparations
Herbal cosmetic used for hygienic (dental and bath products)
• Powder • Paste • Dentifrices • Lotion • Mouth washes • Bath soap
Borderline herbal products
• Eye preparations • Foot powders and applications • Insect repellants
• Miscellaneous products

ECONOMICAL ASPECTS OF HERBAL COSMETICS

Herbal cosmetics are growing popular not only in developed countries like United States,
Canada, United Kingdom, Australia, Germany and France, but also in other developing countries
like the Philippines, china and India etc. Herbal cosmetic products containing natural
components have showed increasing trend in the market. In the last decades or so, the demand
for herbal cosmetics has increased over the time period. With globalization, there have been
changes in many fields such as improvisation in products, innovation, competition, brand image
etc. On the other hand, herbal cosmetics attract the consumers due to their natural properties and
lesser side effects. According to market experts, the herbal cosmetics industry is heading towards
a new phase of its expansion. At present global market for herbal cosmetics is $ 1500 billion and
is estimated to grow at the rate of 25% per annum. In European countries the natural skin care
products have the maximum market share of all product categories. The German and the French
herbal cosmetics markets are the most upcoming markets among the European countries. The
major problem in analysing world trade particularly herbal cosmetics is the limited statistical
data available on production and trade. However a projected growth rate of herbal cosmetic is
reflecting an increased trend till 2024.

Table 1. List of Cosmeceutical formulations

Prepration Categorie Formulation forms
 s
Baby preparations Creams, lotions, oil, powders, shampoos
Skin care preparations Body and hand preparations (moisturizers), eye creams, face and neck
preparations, fresheners and astringents, suntan gels
Shaving preparations Aftershaves, beard softeners, shaving creams (aerosol, brushless
lather), preshaves
Makeup preparations Blushers, eyebrow pencils, eyeliners, eye makeup preparations, eye
makeup removers, eye shadows, face powders, facial makeups,
fixatives, foundation makeups, leg and body paints, lip glosses,
lipsticks, mascaras, rouges
Hair products Depilatories, dressings, dyes and colors, grooming aids, lighteners,
miscellaneous rinses, permanent waveproducts, shampoos,
sprays, straighteners, tints, tonics, wave sets
Fragrance products Colognes and toilet waters, deodorants, fragrances, perfumes
Dentifrices Aerosols, breath fresheners, liquids, mouthwashes, pastes, powders
Bath preparations Bubble baths, capsules, oils, salts, soaps and detergents, tablets
Cleansing preparations Creams, douches, liquids and pads, lotions, personal cleansing
products
Miscellaneous Paste masks, powders (men’s, women’s, talcums)
products

People of India and China have knowledge about the medicinal uses of plants and herbs over
5000 years. China is the largest exporters of herbal cosmetics in the world whereas India stands
second in the global market share. Both the countries have a rich bio-diversity which helps in
evolution of various species of plants and herbs. Emergence of new and advanced technologies
empowers these countries as the leading exporters of herbal cosmetics. The herbs are basically
generated from wild sources and require a rationalised approach to utilise it for sustainable
development of herbal cosmetic industries.

The Indian cosmetics industry is undergoing rapid evolution and transition following
liberalization. It has matured to a great extent during the last few decades. Although economic
recession in the world market proves to be a major setback for big players (MNCs and limited
sector companies) but, it did not affect the overall growth in the cosmetic industry. It was
estimated to be in the range of 15-20%. Indian ayurvedic products market is estimated to be Rs.
2500 crore per annum out which Rs. 450 crore is the market of natural herbal cosmetics. The
Indian personal care market is estimated to be worth US$ 4 Billion (approx. Rs. 20,000 crore)
this includes bath and shower products, hair care, skin care, cosmetics, fragrances and
deodorants. Soaps market has grown at a rate of 5% per annum over the last 5 years and stands at
market size of US$ 1.5 billion (approx Rs. 7500 crores). These are consumer products and their
quality, price, marketing and distribution strategies determine the success of this industrial
sector. In India, AYUSH, a separate department was established in March 1995 to promote
indigenous systems of medicine and homeopathy. This provided a platform and boosted the
herbal cosmetic industries too. The overall Indian personal care market has the potential to grow
at 15-16% per annum and thereby double to US$ 8 billion (approx 40,000 crore) by 2012.

Table 2. Selected herbal extracts having cosmeceutical potential

Product Botanical Source Cosmetic Potential
Amla extract Embelica officinalis Hair tonic
Amla oil Embelica officinalis Hair care
Aloe gel Aloe vera Skin bleaching
Bhringraj Aq. extract Eclepta alba Hair dye
Bhringraj oil Eclepta alba Hair tonic
Bilberry dry extract Vaccinium myritillus Antioxidant
Butcher’s broom dry extract Ruscus aculeatus Cream to enhance appearance
Brahmi Aq.Extract Centella asiatica Hair care
and Brahmi oil
Chamomile dry extract Matricaria chamomill Soothing effect on irritated
a skin
Echinaceae dry extract Echinacea spp. Anti ageing
Ginkgo extract Ginkgo biloba Microcirculation
Hawthron Crataegus spp. Anti ageing
Henna/Mehandi Aq. extract Lawsonia inermis Hair dye and Conditioner
Haldi Aq. extract Termeric Skin care
Roselle Aq. ext. Hibiscus sabdariffa Skin and Hair care
Ivy soft extract Rhus toxicodendron
Khus Aq. extract Vetiveria zizanioides Skin and Hair care
Brahmi Leaf extract Centella asiatica Stimulation of collagen
synthesis
Lemon peel Aq. extract Citrus limon Skin and Hair care
Methi Aq. extract Fenugreek Skin and Hair care
Melilot dry extract Melilotus officinalis Microcapillary protection
Marigold dry extract Calendula officinalis Emollient
Neem Aq. extract Azadirachta indica Skin and Hair care
Neem oil Azadirachta indica Skin and Hair care
Peruvian bark fluid extract Cinchona succirubra Stimulation of scalp hair
Pumpkin Cucurbita pepo Stimulation of sebaceous
seed lipophilic extract gland
Rose petal Aq. extract Rosa spp. Skin and Hair care
Shikakai Aq. extract Acacia coneinna Hair care
 Soybean saponin Glycine max Soothing effect
Sandalwood oil Santalum album Skin care
Tulsi Aq. Extract Ocimum spp. Skin care

Main areas of coemeceutical growth include: color cosmetics, fragrances (fragrance is the most
popular purchase among imported products), specialized skin care and hair care products;
professional salon items, and make-up cosmetic products. Some of the major cosmetics items
imported by India are fragrances, non-transfer long-stay lipsticks, liquid lip color, eye make-up,
specialized skincare products, particularly anti ageing/anti wrinkle, anti blemish and skin
whitening (fairness) creams, professional hair-care and styling products, and preparations for
shaving creams and skin care products for men. Sun care products such as sun blocks and sun
protection products are also popular.