ra relma) PAT-5 Ses saci SERIAL NUMBER INSTRUCTIONS FOR ASSEMBLY OPERATIONTURNTABLE 1 TURNTABLE 2 TAPE DECK 1 input © °° ourrur WIRING SYMBOLS SHIELDED AUDIO CABLE LAMP ("ZIP") CORD PAT-5 TYPICAL HOOKUP LEFT CHANNEL SHOWN RIGHT CHANNEL IDENTICAL TO WALL OUTLET ‘MAIN” SPEAKERS REMOTE” SPEAKERS EQUALIZER RIGHT DYNACO PAT-5S SOLID STATE STEREO PREAMPLIFIER CONTENTS Hookup Diagram . 2. Optional Modifications ......6....+5 28 Installation ....... 3. In Case of Difficulty i 30 Operation 22... 5 Voltage Chart 32 Circuit Description wesherbnned 8 — Gircuit Board Layouts .. 33 Assembly Instructions... .ecececccees & Warranty and Service Policies te 4 Block Diagram ......2.sce0cseeseeee 17 Specifications. . ees Schematic Diagram ccna 18-19 Kit Parts List... eee cteeeeceeeees 36 Component Values saps 20 Pictorial Diagram + Insert ‘The Dynaco PAT-5 is the control center and preamplifier for your high fidelity stereo system, which is used in con- Junetion with a power amplifier, such as the Dynaco Stereo 400 or other basic power amplifier, and pairs of speakers. When the outputs from the amplifier are connected to the preamplifier, two pairs of speakers may be selected, and any impedance headphones may be connected to the front panel of the preamplifier. ‘The PAT-5 provides flexibility and features not found in many other preamplifiers. ‘Therefore, please read the INSTALLATION and OPERATION instructions thoroughly, and correlate them with the hookup diagram opposite as connec: tions are made, . INSTALLATION AUDIO CONNECTIONS ‘Twelve pairs of audio inputs and outputs are provided in wo rows, each pair marked for function, The top row is for the left (A) channel; the bottom row is for the right (B) channel, Bach requires connection by a single conductor shielded cable, We believe that there will be less confusion if connections are made in the order given here. However, if a different sequence is followed, always see that the rowsx switch of the PAT.5 is turned off, and then connect the line cord Phono 1 / Phono 2 ‘These identical inputs are for connection from magnetic phono cartridges requiring preamplification and the stand- ard RIAA qualization. Cartridges having an output of 0.5 millivolts per centimeter per second or higher are suitable. Conneet Phono 1 to the turntable most used, because it is conveniently placed adjacent to the Tuner position on the SELECTOR switch. Phono 2 is connected to the secondary turntable, if one is used, or it may remain unconnected. ‘Sometimes a turntable will have an extra lead for ground: ing, A serew GNp on the PATT-5 is provided for this pur- pose, It is advisable, however, to use the minimum number of separate ground leads to achieve lowest hum. Extra leads sometimes cause more hum, rather than less, Some experimentation may therefore be required. ‘There are several changes which can be accomplished with Phono I and Phono 2, if desired, Information for changes will be found in this manual under sreciaL ov. ‘TIONAL MODIFICATIONS on pages 28 and 29, Tape 1 / Tape 2 ‘These two inputs receive flat high level signals. ‘They are for playback from two tape decks. Tape 1 is connected to the deck most used or if only one deck is employed, be- cause of its position adjacent to Tuner on the setmoron switch, ‘They are otherwise identieal in operation and level. ‘The labeling for the output of tape decks varies some- what, but they are usually called “line output”, “preamp output”, or simply “output”. Tuner / Spare ‘These two identical inputs also receive flat high level signals. Connect the Tuner input to the output from aM/ ra/Multiples radio tuners. A tuner with an output of about 0.5 volt or greater @ 100% modulation is suitable. Connect the Spare input from a third tape deck, audio sig nals from a television set, or leave unconnected, Tape Out 1 / Tape Out 2 Comneet Tape Out 1 to the recording input of the tape deck which is already connected for playback purposes to the Tape 1 input on the PAT-5. Similarly connect Tape Out 2 to the input of the deck already connected to the Tape 2 input on the PAT, Recording input labeling varies somewhat, but “Tine in- put", “high level", “radio", or simply “input” are typical nomenclature for tape decks. "These inputs should require signal levels between 100 millivolts and one volt for full, recording level. Microphone inputs therefore cannot be ‘used, because their sensitivity is too high, Tape Out 1 and Tape Out 2 are located before the vol- ume, balance, filter and tone control circuits so that these controls will have no effect on the signal out to the tape decks during recording. These controls may, therefore, be adjusted as desired for listening without affecting the re cording process. Tf you wish to alter tonal balance for recording purposes, see the description further on under Output 1 and Output 2 ‘The PAT-5 does not provide the equalization and bias requirements of a complete recording preamplifier. Tt there fore cannot be used for this purpose,EPL Out / EPL. In and EPL. Switch ‘This output/input combination is designed for use with ‘a separate speaker or octave equalizer. This pair of eonnee- tors is located before the volume and balance controls, in parallel with the tape outputs and inputs, and is controlled by the mp, swileh (External Processor Loop) on the front panel. Conneet from E.P.L. Out to the input of the separate equalizer, and from the output of the equalizer to H.P.L. In, When the mr. switch is pushed on, the equalizer is connected in the circuit. When this switch is out, the equalizer is by-passed (as if it were not connected at all), oven though plugged into the PAT-5. ‘Therefore, if an ex- ternal equalizer is used, the mx.t, switch must always be pushed on, If these connections are not used, the K.P... switch must remain out or there will be no output from the PATS. ‘This pair of outputs and inputs may be used for connec: tion of an active “4-channel” matrix decoder. B.P.L. Out ig connected to the input of the decoder, the front channel output of the decoder is connected to E.P.L. In, and the rear channel output of the decoder is connected as directed in the decoder’s instructions to another control amplifier or basic amplifier. It is also possible to use these connections as a channel reverse switch, To do this, connect a short shielded audio cable from the left E.P.L. Out to the right H.P.L, In, and 1a second audio cable from the right B.P.L. Out to the left BP.L. In, When thus connected, pushing on the =P. switch will reverse Output I and Output 2 channels of the PAT-5 (Lape Out 1 and Tape Out 2 are unaffected). Ttis possible to rewire the #.P.L., Out and E.P.D. In con- nections at another circuit location, if needed. See the SPECIAL OPTIONAL MoniPIcATION section on page 29. Output 1 / Output 2 Connect Output 1 via the shielded audio cables supplied to the audio input of the power amplifier. Oufput 2 may be used to connect a second amplifier, if desired, or to a tape deck if the full facilities of the PAT5 are neoded for re cording purposes. Otherwise, Output 2 remains uncon- nected “There are no electrical differences between Output 1 and Output 2. They are connected in parallel. Both provide Jow impedance, unbalanced signal output. If longer shielded cables are required, any length up to 50 feet may be used. Tf you wish to alter tonal balance for recording onto a tape deck, all the controls on the PATS can be used if Output 1 or Output 2 is used. The yorum control will then change not only the speaker and/or headphone level, Dut also the signal level going onto the tape deck. ‘The filters, steroo-mono switches, tone controls and even a sep- arate equalizer (through r.1.) may be helpful wien trans fering older dises to tape, for example. A higher signal level ean also be obtained from these outputs, but it will be necessary to advance the vouuste control somewhat, which may provide too much signal for simultaneous listening over speakers or headphones. You may therefore wish to turn off the power amplifier once the proper tonal correc- tion has been achieved 4 ‘AMPLIFIER AND SPEAKER/ HEADPHONE CONNECTIONS Six pairs of terminals are supplied on the PAT-5 to en- able front panel selection of two sets of speakers and oper ation of headphones. ‘These terminals are 3-way binding posts, which will accept single “banana plugs”, professional double banana plugs with %” spacing, spade lugs, or simply stranded wire. The “hot” binding posts are red; the “ground” or common posts are black, Six red and 6 black single banana plugs are supplied to aid in this connection. ‘The black binding posts are all tied together. ‘They are not connected to the chassis to avoid the possibility of hum loops. AN Dynaco tube and solid stato amplifiers have their output common terminals connected together, and therefore they may he connected to the PAT-5, (There are a very few amplifiers which eannot have their common ter- minals thus connected. ‘The outputs of such amplifiers ‘eannot be connected to the PA'T-5 for speaker selection or headphone use. If in doubt, contact the maker of the amplifier.) Lamp cord (“zip cord”), #18 or #16 gauge, available from hardware and electrical supply stores, is suit= able for this hookup. Proper phase sense is easily main- tained with lamp cord, because one conduetor is eoded with ‘a molded ridge on the outer insulation. If only one stereo pair of speakers is planned, and head- phones are not used, these connections need not be made. Instead, hookup may be made directly from the amplifier to the speakers, Left Amplifier / Right Amplifier Attach a red banana plug to the one conductor of lamp cord coded with @ molded ridge, and attach a black banana plug to the other conductor next to it, Connect the red plug to the red Left Amplifier binding post on the PAT-5, and the black plug to the black Left Amplifier binding post. Comnect the coded conductor at the other end to the leit “hot” output on the amplifier (coded red on all Dynaco solid state amplifiers), and the remaining free conductor to the left common or ground output on the amplifier. In a similar manner, connect the red and black Right Amplifier binding posts on the PAT-5 to the “hot” and common outputs on the right channel of the amplifier. Once this connection is made, the circuit is complete for front panel use of headphones. AL / AR / BAL / B-R Speakers Connection from these binding posts on the PATT-5 via the remaining banana plugs and lamp cord will enable front panel selection of speakers “A” or “B”, or “A-+ B” simultaneously, Usually speakers “A” are the most com- monly used stereo pair and “B” the least used, although electrically it makes no difference. Connect the red and black binding posts marked A-L to the left “A” speaker. Be sure to maintain similar wiring sense for each speaker, so that all speakers will be con- nected in phase. Normally the black common PA'T-5 bind- ing post is connected to the (—), common or ground terminal on each speaker, and the red “hot” binding post to the other speaker terminal, As mentioned before, proper phasing sense is easily attained with lamp cord because ‘one conductor has a molded ridge on the insulation In the same manner, connect the red and black binding posts A-R to the right “A” speaker. Similarly connect B-L and B-R to a second pair of stereo speakers, AC CONNECTIONS AND POWER SWITCH ‘There are four ac outlets, ‘Three are switched on and off with the front panel power switch, and one remains on at all times. Connect the power cords from associated equip- ment as follows: 1, ‘The amplifier to one of the switched outlets. If the am- plifier has a 3-wire power cord, such as the Dynaco Stereo 400, an adapter with a separate green ground wire may be obtained locally. You may wish to experiment reducing system hum by soldering an insulated exten- sion to the green ground wire and attaching it to the center screw of the same wall outlet plate to which the PAT-5 will be connected, ‘The tuner to switched outlet, ‘The equalizer to.a switched outlet. ‘The turntable to an unswitched outlet. Many turntables, and changers have idler wheels and pulleys which are disengaged through use of their on-off switches. 5. The tape deck to an unswitehed outlet, since all decks have idler wheels which normally engage and retract by ‘mechanical means on the deck. Once connected, as outlined, the amplifier, tuner and equalizer power switches may be turned on at all times, Thereafter the roweR switch on the PATT.5 will turn them on and off After making certain that the rowsR switch is tumed off (lever down), plug the power cord from the PA'T-5 into a wall outlet providing 120 volts (alternately 240 volts) , 50/ 60 Hz on a 15 ampere (minimum) circuit if the Stereo 400 or other high power amplifier is used. If an extension to the power cord is needed, use only a heavy duty two con ductor type (15 Amp. rating or heavier). Itis very important to use the power switch on the PA'T- to turn the high fidelity system on and off. A separate wall switch or relay-activated switch box, used rarely with instal: lations, should NEVER be employed, because the circuits of the preamplifier are designed to remain on at all times, ro- gardless of the position of the power switch on the PAT-5. ‘Moreover, if you want to unplug the PA'T-5 for any reason, make certain that its power switch is tumed off prior to removing the plug. When reinstalling the plug, Ieave the owen switch tumed off until the plug is connected, ‘This is to avoid a circuit transient from passing through the ampli- fier and speakers, ‘The PAT-5 generates very little heat and therefore it is not necessary to provide ventilation, However, sinee the cir- ‘cuits of the preamplifier remain on at all times once it has been connected to a wall outlet, its exterior surfaces will be- come sightly warmer than the surrounding air temperature, Leaving the circuitry connected provides several benefits: 1) The slight heat generated by power supply resistors helps to drive off moisture; shortly after installation, the PAT-5 thus forms its own stable internal environment; 2) The electrolytic capacitors stay at operating voltage and are constantly “formed” so that potentially annoying start up control and switeh noises and transients are virtually elimi nated; 8) The components will last far longer, becauise they ‘are not being eycled on and off. ‘The unit draws 12 watts- the same current as three electric clocks, Energy conserva- tion purists may, however, alternatively connect the PAT: for fully off switching, as noted in the manual under s CIAL OPTIONAL MODIFICATIONS on page 29. OPERATION ‘The Dynaco PAT-5 is provided with functional, useful controls and switches on its front panel, together with a logical layout commensurate with good engineering design. For example, the two most-used controls—seupcron and ‘voume—have larger knobs than the others, The eye there- fore tends to focus on them, which helps the uninitiated to use the preamplifier properly at the outset. Following are descriptions of the controls and switches on the PAT-5, Some are common to all preamplifiers Several are familiar, but operate different from other units. ‘A few are altogether new. SELECTOR Switch "This switch connects a choice of program source, both channels simultaneously, together with proper equalization for magnetic phonograph. All program sources, including tape deck playback, are selected by this switch, In the PAT-5 there are a pair of monitor switches as well (de- seribed later), but routine playback from a tape deck is handled the same way as all other inputs to simplify usage. VOLUME Control ‘The output of both channels is controlled simultaneously by this control, with close tracking of the two stereo ehan- nels so that the program source remains in balance over ‘most of its range, ‘The taper rate of the vou control has been chosen to provide a slow inerease in gain over the first half of rotation and a more rapid gain increase above 12 o'clock. This enables most satisfactory operation with both low and high effcioney speakers. BALANCE Control ‘This control is normally tumed to the position that pro- vvides equal signal strength to both channels. Tts position will vary somewhat {rom one program souree to another, depending upon the accuracy of balance of the source, Rotation to the right shifts the apparent sound to the right by reducing the left channel level, and conversely to the left, This control has a very gradual action in the first 90° of rotation either side of center, but its action increases rapidly to the extremes of rotation, where one channel ot the other is silenced. ‘A BALANCE control is required for those sources which are not accurately balanced, and further it is possible that the speakers used may have different efficiencies, or some rooms may absorb more sound energy from one speaker than from the other. A certain amount of adjustment is 5therefore semi-permanent, while the rest vari source. If you find that the naLaNce control gives its opti- mum results when it is consistently offset from center, you may wish to loosen the set serew and reposition the control knob so that it points straight up for most listening. BASS and TREBLE Controls / TONE CONTROLS Switch There are individual nass and TREBLE controls for each channel, which operate only when the TONE conTROLS switch below them is pushed on, In its normal out position, the tone controls are electrically disconnected for fiat response. ‘These controls utilize split knobs to make normal oper- ation easier. This enables routine adjustment of both chan- nels simultaneously, yot permits varying them indepen dently when special occasions call for it. The outer knobs control the left channel, and the inner ones nearest. the panel adjust the right channel ‘The normal or “flat” position is centered, with increasing bass or treble {o the right, and decreasing effect to the left, Considerable thought and design have been expended to provide useable tone conttols for the audiophile, ‘The action ‘of the mass control is very subile for about the first 90° of rotation either side of center, unless the speakers have very deep bass response. The control action has a variable turn- over point (30 Hz to 500 Hz) which affects only the lowest frequencies at first. Only when nearly fully advanced does this control affect the sound quality of the male speaking voice, for example. It can therefore be used to partially cor- reet for speaker deficiencies in the deep bass region, and in this respect this control is like the operation of the lowest frequeney control of a quality octave equalizer. In a similar manner, the action of the 1REBLA: control is subtle at first, unless the speakers have extended high fre- ‘queney response, A fixed tumover point is employed at 2000 Hz, a somewhat higher hinge frequency than is usually encountered ‘As a result, even when the tone controls are used in their extreme positions, there is almost no sonic alteration of the mid-frequencies from 500 Hz to 2000 He, ‘A separate loudness switch is neither necessary nor pro- vided in the PAT-5, for it is easy to preset the pass and ‘TREBLE controls to supply the loudness compensation to suit your needs. With the ToXE coxrmors switch out, no com pensation is oblained. When background listening requires compensation, simply push on the TONE CONTROLS switch to engage the chosen tonal correction. SPEAKER Switch This switch permits selection of two pairs of stereo speakers. Select speaker pair “A” (usually the “main” or ‘most used speakers) by turning the speaKuR switch to 4; speaker pair “B” (usually the “remote” speakers) by turn= ing this switch to B; both speaker pairs at the same time by turning to A +} B; or all speakers off by turning it to Off. ‘When switching speakers, remember to always turn down the voLume control to a low level on the PAT-5. Although this spraxen switch has solid silver contacts and ean even switch safely the Dynaco Stereo 400 at full power, some other amplifiers may fail if they are switched when delivering ‘medium or high levels of signal. In addition, if speakers 6 of differing efi are used, adjustment of the voLusx ‘control must be made prior to switching or damage to the higher efficiency speakers may occur. Unless the sets of speakers possess almost the same eff- ciencies, it will not generally be feasible to operate the speakers at the same time (position A + B). There is no practical way to equalize the outputs of speakers having differing efficiencies, unless you are willing to degrade the performance of the higher efficiency pair, Such compro mising of quality is not encouraged. ‘Most solid state amplifiers, including all Dynaco unit should be connected to speakers of 4 ohms impedance or higher. When two pairs of 8 ohm speakers are connected to the PAT-5 and both are operated at the same time (posi tion A+ B), the resulting impedence is 4 ohms, However, if one or both pairs is rated at 4 ohms, then position A + 5 should not be used, unless the amplifier manufacturer indi- cates that loads under 4 ohms are acceptable. (With a 4 ohm speaker and an 8 ohm speaker both operating on one channel, the resulting impedence is under 3 ohms; when a pair of 4 ohm speakers is used on one channel, the impe dane is 2 ohms.) When the spraxen switch is Ojf, headphones should always be connected to the PAT-5 and the vouum control should always be turned down except when headphones are conneeted, Otherwise, no load is connected to the amplifier, which may be harmful to some amplifiers. INPUT / MONITOR and TAPE 1 / TAPE 2 Switches ‘There are two switches for tape recording, dubbing and monitoring. ‘They enable direct comparison of the pro- ram source, as indicated by the seuecror switch, with the same signal played back from the playback amplifier of a tape deck. This fenture is effective when recording through the PAT-5 to tape decks which have separate record and playback heads (known as “3-head” decks) and when these decks are designed for simultaneous playback during re- cording. Tn its normal out position, the mput/montror switch provides the program source. When pushed on, this switch permits listening to the just-recorded signal from a choice of two tape decks, depending on the position of the ad jacent ar 1/rapR 2 switeh, In its out position, nape connected; when pushed on, raPz 2 is connected, ‘The following examples will more fully explain the fune- tion and operation of these switches. (Tt is assumed that the tape deck recording inputs and playback outputs have een connected as previously deseribed under INSTALL ON.) 1, To record onto to tape decks simultaneously from a program source, such as tuner or turntable (even from a third tape deck connected to Spare), first turn the SELECTOR switch to the appropriate source. Engage the record circuits on both tape decks and set their output functions for playback monitoring, With the INPuT/ owrror switch out, you will hear the source (the signal being fed to the decks), With this switch on and the ‘Tape L/raPE 2 switch out, you will hear the playback sig- nal from Tare 1. With both switches pushed on, you will hear playback from Tape 2. A comparison between the taped signal and the source is achieved by alternately pushing on and releasing the 1Npur/mont10R switch, If a tape deck(s) does not have a separate playback head and facilities for playback monitoring, whether the ixpur/sonrror switeh is out or on will provide only the Program source. Recordings made on decks with only ‘two heads cannot monitor during recording. ‘They have to be listened to after the tape copying is completed. 2, To record onto one tape deck from a tuner or turntable, set up as in Bxample 1, except that before recording it is, ood practice to engage the Tape 1/‘rapr 2 switeh to the appropriate position. Monitoring, as before, is obtained by pushing on the iveur/stonzrox switch, 3. ‘Tape dubbing (recording from one tape deck to another) is equally easy and may be achieved in either direction. Tape 1 (playback) to Tape 2 (recording) dubbing sequence: (a) Tum sexpcrox switch to Tape 1; (b) Push on rape 1/rare 2 switch (Do not release this, switch during recording; see note below) ; (c) Begin recording; (d) Release wpur/soxrror switch to hear the source oF push on to hear the tape copy. Tape 2 to Tape 1 dubbing sequence: (a) Tur supcton switch to Tape 2; (b) tape 1/rarE 2 switch out (Do not push on during recording; see note below); (c) Begin recording; (A) Release upur/aonsTor switch to hear the source or push on to hear the tape copy. important Nore: Tape decks connected to the PAT-5 should always be kept in their tape playback modes unless you wish to actually record with them. In addition, the ‘sequence of record and playback monitoring should be fol- lowed faithfully, as given in the above examples, or it is possible that electrical jeedback may occur in the tape deck, because the ousput of the deck is being fed back through the PAT-5 to the input of the deck. Thus the tape ‘outputs on the PAT-5 are always “live”, irrespective of the position of the seuucton switch, The resulting squeal of feedback will be on the tape copy, if you are recording, but in any case may pin the meters on the deck, and may even damage the power amplifier, headphones or speakers jrom excessive level. This admonition applies equally to 2- and 3-head tape decks, In short, use the tape monitoring facilities on the PAT-5 only when recording. Otherwise, the ispuT/ MONITOR switeh should remain in its out position Ifa third tape deck is connected to spans for playback, it is not possible to record onto this deck from either deck ‘connected conventionally to the PAT-5, or from any other program source, If you wish to dub from one tape deck to another while listening to a source other than the decks, it is advisable to directly connect the decks separate from the PAT-5, STEREO / MONO Switches ‘This pair of switches normally remain in the stereo mode, with each switch in its out position. Three add tional choices are provided: 1) The left input channel “I.” is switched through both outputs by pushing on switch Z. (R remains out); 2) The right input channel “R” is switched through hoth outputs by pushing on switch Ft (remains out); 3) An “L +} R” or combined mono signal is obtained when both switches are pushed on, If 6 dB of separation is wanted instead of a pure mono signal when the two switches are pushed on, directions for making this change will be found on this manual under SPECIAL OPTIONAL MopUETcATIONS on page 30. This amount. of separation is useful to restore more nearly normal stereo perspective when listening with headphones, LOW FILTER Switch When pushed on, the Low rirsr switch reduces the level of low frequencies at the rate of 6 dB per octave (—12 dB @ 15 Hz), and thus minimizes rumble from dises and simi- lar low frequeney disturbances, HIGH FILTER Switch ‘The wucH viurex, when pushed on, provides a very smooth, sharp reduction of high frequencies at the rate of 15 dB per octave (—10 dB @ 10 kHz). It is beneficial in reducing unwanted noise in tape, dise and broadcasting sources without materially affecting the musical content, HEADPHONE Jack ‘This output jack uses the universal headphone symbol. A standard 8-circuit phone plug fits this jack, wired so that the tip connection is the left channel (in accordance with the unofficial U.S. “standard”), Low and medium imped- ance dynamic stereo headphones (4 ohms to 2000 ohms) may be directly connected when the output from the power amplifier is connected to the PAT-5, as deseribed earlier, If electrostatic headphones are used, or if the headphones seem to be too loud or too soft, information for changes wil be found in this manual under SPECIAL OPTIONAL MoDI- ications on page 30. If quadraphonic headphones are used, it will be possible to connect only the phone plug identified for “front” supplied with the headphones, Panel Mounting and Wood Cabinets ‘The PAT-5 may be mounted in any position—even face up in a cabinet. For panel mounting, an accessory Pai bracket kit is available for $3.00 post paid. No COD's please. A singular rectangular cutout 13” x 3-13/16" is required in any panel up to 1” thick, The Pax bracket kit may also be used to mount this unit in a standard 19” rack, after the necessary cutout for the PAT-5 has been made in the rack panel. ‘Two types of accessory walnut wood finish cabinets are available for the PAT-5. There is a single cabinet for the preamplifier alone, and a double eabinet to house any ‘Dynaco tuner atop the PAT:5,CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION ‘The components in the PA'T-5 are of the highest quality to protect against failure, and all parts are operated con- servatively with close tolerances to asstire proper opera- tion for many years. The transistors and integrated cir- ‘cuits have been thoroughly researched and selected for minimum noise and distortion in sustained use, and the printed circuit boards associated with audio signals have been pretested in the circuit to ensure that every unit will meet the laboratory prototype-like specifications. "The written specifications can only begin to convey the audio performance of the PAT-5. It achieves sonic accu- racy without strideney of any kind, and its utter neutrality gives the impression of direct contact with the original signal, such as a fine camera/lens combination achieves in photography. Each audio channel of the PAT-5 basically consists of three circuit elements: preamplificr-equalizer circuit, con- trol circuit, and tone control-output circuit. The power supply is fully regulated. ‘The preamplifier-equalizer is a direct coupled xex/ \NPw transistor pair operated at 42 volts B+. Parameters have beon adjusted for optimum noise, gain, frequency re- sponse, input acceptance, stability, and distortion. All feedback is nc connected.’ ‘The input stage is not affected by the source impedance of the phonograph cartridge so that the cartridge cannot alter the niaa equalization. ‘The control section of the circuit, which comprises vol- ume, balance, stereo-mono, low and high filter functions, is driven by’ a voltage follower containing a Pxe/NeN direct coupled transistor pair at low impedance. ‘The tone control-output section uses a high performance operational amplifier integrated circuit as the entire gain element. nc feedback around the operational amplifier is constant in all modes; only ac feedhack is altered for tone control operation. ‘The high frequeney nc filter net- work utilizes an active, low noise two transistor NPN/ NPN configuration. ‘The multiple-stage power supply uses a series regulator transistor with a separate zener diode generated reference voltage for the + 42 volts used for the preamplifier circuit. ‘The = 15 volt supplies utilize shunt design zener diode regulation for the control and tone control-output circuits, and + 15 volts for the active nc filter network. A fully regulated supply has been chosen so that variations of line voltage from 100 to 130 volts ac (alternately 200 to 260 volts) will have no effect on audio performance. ‘This is particularly important if a very powerful amplifier is used, where its current demands can exceed the wall outlet capability, ‘The audio circuits of the PAT-5 therefore al- ways remain stable, because the outputs from the power supply do not “pump” or shift in voltage. ‘The nominal output impedance of the PAT-5 is 600 ‘ohms unbalanced, which enables it to be used with long output cables and to be relatively non-critical of load impedance, ts specifications are based on a load imped- ance of 10,000 ohms or higher, which means that virtually every tube or solid state amplifier may connect to it. If a lower impedance lead is connected, there will be some reduction in the maximum output level which can be ob- tained with low distortion, 8 ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS GENERAL ASSEMBLY INFORMATION Construction of the PATS is exceptionally simple when compared to other kits. The printed circuit boards for audio have been preassembled and tested to save you much of the work, and the assembly that remains is in an ‘open, uncluttered layout to make wiring quick and easy. ‘The construction time will be several hours. It is better to work slowly and carefully rather than worry about the time. ‘When unpacking your kit, check off the components against the parts list at the back of the manual. You can ‘identify unfamiliar parts by matching them to the pictorial diagram or photograph, Have the proper tools at hand before starting construc- tion, ‘The tools necessary are: 1. A pencil-type soldering iron with a 3/16” tip or smaller of 40 to 60 watts rating, with a tip temperature of 700 to 80°F. ‘A damp sponge or cloth to wipe the tip of the iron. 60/40 rosin core solder not larger than 1/16” diameter. A medium sized screwdriver (2” blade). Long nosed and diagonal cutting pliers, Heavy “slip joint” pliers. A single edged razor blade or inexpensive wire stripping tool for removing insulation, A few wood toothpicks to remove solder from eyelets. 9. A wood or cardboard match with its head removed, 10. Transparent tape. We do not recommend using a soldering gun, Not only ean @ gun provide more heat than is necessary—an un- skilled user might damage printed circuit boards—but also many users tend to make poor solder connections, simply because they do not wait long enough for the gun to reach its operating temperature each time. Use a conventional pencil type iron. ‘You should realize that delicate components such as transistors are less likely to be damaged in the soldering process if you use a hot iron a short time, rather than a cooler iron for a longer period, You will also make a better connection with the hot iron. If you keep the iron clean by wiping the tip frequently, and occasionally add a small amount of solder to the tip, it will aid the transfer of heat to the connection, Do not allow too much solder to build up on the tip, though, or it may fall onto adjacent circuitry. ‘A good solder connection does not require a large amount of solder around the joint. A well-made connection looks smooth and shiny because the solder flows into the joint when both parts are hot enough, ‘There are four steps to making a good solder connection: Make a good mechanical connection, Heat both parts with the tip of the iron at the junction. Apply solder to the junction until it melts and flows. Allow the connection to cool undisturbed, ALL SOLDERING MUST BE DONE WITH A GOOD GRADE OF ROSIN CORE SOLDER. Under no circumstances should acid core solder be used. Unmarked solder, cheap solder or any of doubtful origin should be discarded, and separate solder fluxes should never be used. 'The warranty is voided on any equipment in which acid core solder or acid type fluxes have been used, Silver solder is not suitable. The recommended solder is 60/40 (60% lin, 40% lead) ROSIN CORE. Do not con- use this with 40/60, which is harder to use, When the instructions refer to “inning” @ wire, apply the solder to the wire so that the solder lightly coats the wire. This makes it easier to get a good connection when the wire is inserted into an eyelet, for example, ‘Whenever one wire is to be soldered to a connection such as a lug or an eyelet, the instructions will indicate this by the symbol (S). If more than one wire is to be soldered to the same point, the instructions will so state ($2), for example, indicates that 2 wires are to be soldered to the named lug.’ If no symbol is shown, do not solder; further connections will be made to that point before soldering is called for. Components such as resistors and capacitors are marked individually with their values, or with a color cade, ‘The color code ‘will be given in the instructions when needed. ‘The first color band on a resistor is the one nearest the end. A number of steps begin, “Prepare one end of a wire ", with the length of wire specified. In each case, first ‘cut a piece of the correct color wire to the specified length, and then remove about 14” of insulation from each end before making the connection. This is easiest with wire strippers, but diagonal cutters ean be used if you are eare- ful not to nick the wire and weaken it, With stranded wire such as transformer leads and line cords, be particularly careful not to cut the strands when stripping the ends. ‘The position of all wire leads should follow the diagram and photograph closely, bearing in mind that the pictorial diagram has necessarily been distorted somewhat to show all connections clearly. See that uninsulated wires do not touch each other unless, of course, they are connected to the same point. It is especially important that uninsulated ‘wires or component leads or terminals do not touch the chassis accidentally. Check your work after each step, When you are satisfied that it has been correctly done, check the space provided and go on to the next step. Be sure you read carefully the explanatory paragraphs in the assembly insteuetions. WRONG re One of the best ways to make a good mechan- ical connection is to bend a small hook in the tend of the wire, and then to crimp the hook onto the terminal lug. The amount of bare wire exposed need not be exactly ¥4-ineh, but if itis too long, the excess might touch another termi- nal lug or the chassis. Do not wrap the wire around the lug more than one time, as this makes the connection difficult to remove if an error is made, When soldering a lead to an eyelet on the circuit board, the PAT-5 makes it easy to apply the iron to one side of the board while the tinned wire end is pressed into the solder-filled eyelet from the opposite side. When the eye- lot is heated, the wire enters easily, but be careful that you do not push the wire all the way into the eyelet up to the insulation. If you do, you will not be able to see it you have made a secure connection, or if more solder is needed to provide a smooth flow from the wire, to the eyelet, and onto the circuitry on the board. ‘Transistor equipment, unlike much tube equipment, will, not tolerate wiring errors, sloppy or incomplete soldering. TAKE THE TIME TO BE NEAT AND ACCURATE, and your preamplifier will operate properly at first, and for ‘many years to come,BACK PANEL ASSEMBLY ‘Most of the hardware used to mount parts in this kit is, #4-40 x Sie". Before starting, separate out the other hard- ware, if not already separated, and set aside. 1( )Select the painted back panel. Notice on the inside ‘that two areas, one large and the other small, have no paint, Clean these two areas with a suitable sol- vent to remove any sticky material so that proper grounding may be achieved. Common mineral spirits or lighter fluid is satisfactory. 2( )Select the four Gsocket input strips, sixteen #4 screws and nuts, twenty-eight #4 lockwashers, and four #4 ground lugs. ‘The quickest installation method is to insert all 16 screws from the outside, ‘and then hold them in place temporarily on the out” je with transparent tape as the rest of the parts, fare assembled on the inside. Soe the sketch below. ‘A ground lug is used first on the inside on the cor- nner screw for each of the four strips, as shown in the Pictorial Diagram, and lockwashers on the re- maining twelve screws. Next install the input strips (they mount in either direction) and fasten with a lockwasher and a nut on each serew, Remove the tape, orient the ground ]ugs as shown in the Pictorial Diagram, and tighten the serews firmly. 3( Install the six red binding posts in positions 1, 2, 8, 7, 8 and 9. See the sketch below. A shoulder piece goes on the outside of the back panel with the smaller diameter portion protruding through the hole. The insulating plastic ring fits over it inside the back panel, followed by the washer. Before tightening the first nut, unscrew the outside knurled end and observe the hole in the metal shatt. For sreatest convenience in connecting leads to these posts later, rotate the assembly so that this hole is jin a vertical position. Slip the L-shaped Allen wrench through the hole for easy observation as you firmly tighten the first nut. Slide on the connecting Jug, and fasten with the second nut, Position each connecting lug as shown in the Pictorial Diagram, ‘and keep the Allen wrench vertical as you firmly tighten the second nut. 10 4 aC 6¢ 1 8 a Dn a similar manner, install the six black binding posts in positions 4, 5, 6, 10, 11 and 12. Keep the hole in the metal shaft vertical, and note the correct lug placement in the Pietorial Diagram. )Select the four black AC outlets. Press them into pplace from the outside of the back panel. No hard- ware is necessary. )Select the remaining ground lug, a screw and a nut, ‘Mount the ground lug on the inside of the back panel ‘as shown, and tighten firmly. )Separate the two conductors of the line cord for about. 2”. Strip ¥" of insulation from each (unless the line cord was supplied with stripped ends). ‘Mark the line cord 34%” from the stripped end with, a pencil or pen. Bend the cord sharply back on it self at the marking so that a “V" is formed. Install tho strain relief as shown in the sketch below. ‘The small end of the strain relief faces the stripped end of the wire. With heavy pliers, erimp the two halves of the strain relief together around the wire to partially form the wire before insertion. Now rasp the larger diameter portion of the strain relief with the tips of the pliers, squeeze it fully closed, and insert the combination from the outside of the back panel in the remaining large hole. Notice that the hole has very slightly flat vertical sides, and therefore the device installs easily in the cutout with the cord horizontal. ‘The strain relief snaps into its locked position when fully inserted, i )Select one #6 black sheet metal serew, and install it in the GND hole from the outside, ‘This serew cuts its own thread, and therefore some force is required. Cut 10 black wires each 2” long. Prepare them by removing ¥4” of insulation from the end of each wire. ‘These wires are connected to ground lugs “L", and to pairs of short ground lugs on the input strips. Both halves of each short ground lug must be connected together when soldering is called for. ‘The short lugs are labeled by the numbers of the adjacent long lugs, such as short lug #34, 10 uC )Connect one end of the first wire to short lug #8-4, ‘and the other end to short lug #5-6. )Connect one end of the second wire to short lug #5-6, and the other end to lug 12 13 uc 15¢ 16¢ 1% 18 19( 20¢ aA 22 23 24 25( 26( 27 28( 29 30( Connect one end of the third wire to lug L-2 (S-2) Conneet the other end to short lug #7-8 Connect one end of the fourth wire to short lug #7-8, ‘and the other end to short lug #9-10, Connect one end of the fifth wire to short lug #9-10 ($2). Connect the other end to short lug #11-12. Connect one end of the sixth wire to short lug #15- 16, and the other end to short lug #17-18. )Connect one end of the seventh wire to short lug #17-18, and the other end to lug L-3. )Connect one end of the eighth wire to lug L-8 ($2). Connect the other end to short Ig #19-20. )Connect one end of the ninth wire to short lug #19-20, and the other end to short lug #21-22. Connect one end of the tenth wire to short lug 21-22 (S-2). Connect the other end to short lug 423-24, )Select a 470 pf capacitor and cut its leads to 14”. Connect one lead to short lug #11-12 ($-2). Connect the other lead to long lug #12. )Select the remaining 470 pf capacitor and cut its leads to 4”. Connect one lead to short lug #23-24 (S-2). Connect the other lead to long lug #24. )Select a .01 pf (mfd), 100 v. small dise capacitor with 4” spacing and cut its leads to %4”. Do not ‘confuse this capacitor with the larger .01 jf capac- itors, which have %” spacing, Connect one lead to short lug #12, and the other lead to lug I-1 (8). Select a second .01 pf small dise capacitor and cut its leads to 44. Connect one lead to short lug #13- 14, and the other end to lug L-4 (8). )Cut 4 heavy white wires each 144” long, and pre- pare their ends as usual, )Conneet one end of the first wire to Iug #1 of AC ‘outlet A, and connect the other end to lug #1 of out- let B. Connect one end of the 2nd wire to lug #1 of outlet B ($2). Connect the other end to lug #1 of outlet C. Connect one end of the third wire to lug #2 of outlet ‘A, and conneet the other end to lug #2 of outlet B. )Connect one end of the 4th wire to Ing #2 of outlet B ($-2), Connect the other end to lug #2 of outlet C. )Prepare a 244” heavy white wire. Connect one end to lug #1 of outlet A, and the other end to lug #1 of outlet D. )Select the 56,000 ohm resistor (green-blue-orange) and cut its leads to %”. Connect one lead to lug #1 BC 32 33( 3a¢ 354 36( 37 38( 39( 40 41 of outlet A (8-3), Connect the other lead to Iug #2 of outlet A (8-2). NOTE: If the PATS is used with a 240 volt AC line, ignore this step. ‘The resistor wil be connected later, )Select a large 01 uf dise capacitor with %” spacing, ‘and cut its leads to %”. Connect one lead to lug #1 of outlet D, and the other end to lug 1-5, )Select a second large .01 jf dise capacitor and eut its leads to 54”. Connect one lead to lug #2 of out- lot D, and the other end to lug 1-5. )Prepare a 4” white wire. Connect one end to lug #2 of outlet D. Although the other end will be con- nected later, position this wire straight down toward the bottom of the hack panel. )Connect one end of the line cord to lug #1 of outlet D (S-3). Be certain all wire strands are soldered, )Connect the remaining end of the line cord to lug #2 of outlet D ($3) . )Strip a 2” piece of black wire bare. Connect one end to the lug on the #4 black binding post. Position this wire across the #5 post lug, and connect the other end to the #6 post lug, Solder the wire at lugs #4 and #5. )Strip another 2” piece of black wire bare. As above, ‘connect one end to the #10 post lug, across the #11 lug, and connect the other end to the #12 lug. Solder at lugs #10 and #11. Prepare a 214” black wire as usual, Connect one end to the #12 post lug ($2), Connect the other end to post lug #6. )Prepare an 1144” black wire, Connect one end to post lug #6 (S-3), ‘The other end will be connected later. For convenience, this wire may be tempo- rarily bent over the adjacent end of the back panel ‘and across the outside of the panel, Prepare a 74/5” black wire. Connect one end to input short lug #17-18 ($-3). Position this wire straight down toward the bottom of the back panel, 'The other end will be connected later. Prepare a 10” black wire, Connect one end to short lug #5-6 (S-3). Position this wire straight down toward the bottom of the panel. ‘The other end will be connected later. ‘The next four steps describe the connection of twisted pairs of wires to the back panel. One wire of each pair ear- ries signal and is therefore connected and soldered at both ends. The second wire of each pair is used as a shield and is thus connected and soldered to ground at the back panel only. ‘The other end of this shield wire remains without connection. ‘These twisted pairs, as well as the other twisted wires in ‘his kit, should be uniformly twisted 3 full turns every 2”. uw42 )Cut a 12” blue signal wire and remove ¥4/ of insulation from both ends, Cut an 116” black wire for shielding by removing insula- tion from only one end. Start with the two prepared ends even (insulation removed from each), and twist these wires uniformly together to within 94” of the other end of the biue wire. The small amount of remain- ing black wire should be twisted once around the blue signal wire to form a cirele, and then cut off any excess black shield wire. Connect the black shield wire from the pre- pared end to short lug #19-20, Connect the corresponding blue signal wire to long lug ¥19 (S). Position this pair straight down toward the bottom of the panel. The other ‘end will be connected later. 43(_)In a similar manner, prepare an 1144” yellow signal wire, and an 11” black shield wire. Twist together 1s before to within 4” of the other end of the yellow wire, Twist the black around the yellow wire in a circle, and cut off any excess black wire. Connect the black shield wire to short lug #19.20 (S-4) Connect the corresponding yellow wire to long lug #20 (S). Position this pair straight down adjacent to the blue and black pair for later connection, 44()Similarly prepare a 15” blue signal wire, and a 144” yellow shield wire. Twist together within 34” of the other end of the blue wire, form a circle of yellow shiold wire, and cut off any excess yellow ‘wire, Connect the yellow shield wire to short lug #78, and the corresponding end of the blue signal wire to long lug #7 (8). Position this pair slightly to the right of the other two pairs and straight down for later connection, 45( Prepare a 1414” black signal wire, and a 14” yellow shield wire, as before, Twist together, form a circle of yellow shield wire, and cut off any excess yellow wire. Connect the yellow shield wire to short lug #78 (S-4), and the black signal wire to long lug #8 (S). Position this pair adjacent to the yellow and blue pair for later connection. ‘This completes the mechanical assembly of the back panel and over half of its wiring. Set this assembly aside. FRONT PANEL ASSEMBLY Place the main chassis with integral front panel in front of you, oriented as in the Pictorial Diagram. ‘You may wish to mark on the chassis with a peneil the letter designations of the control and switch cutouts shown in the Pictorial Diagram ($8, VOL, SP, TB, TCB, HJ, ete.) to facilitate assembly. ‘These components will be re- ferred to in this abbreviated form. ‘The 6-position and 2-position button switches mount with self-tapping screvis and do not require either lockwashers cor nuts for installation, 1(_)Select the four rubber feet, and four sets of #4 hard. ware (a set comprises a screw, a nut, and a lock: washer). A foot is mounted in the hole in each 12 comer of the chassis by turning the chassis over, placing the foot over the hole, and pushing the screw through the foot until the serew head is recessed. From the inside, tighten with a nut over a lock- ‘washer. 2( )Seleet the 2-position button switeh, two of the 9%” self-tapping screws with tapered ends, and two of the %" (short) tubular spacers. Insert the screws through the panel in position ‘TB/MB (small hori- zontal rectangle), slip the spacers over the screws, and carefully install the switch so that the solder lugs point upward, )Select the 6-position button switch, the two remain. ing %” screws, and the two remaining short spacers. Carefully install the switch in the large rectangular cutout with the serews and spacers. The lugs point upward. 4( )Select the fuse holder and one set of hardware. Install the fuse holder in the left rear hole of the chassis. Note its orientation before tightening the hardware, To make later connections easier, bend the two end lugs up to about 45° with pliers. ‘The next steps describe connection of wires to some of the lugs on the 2-position and 6:position switches. ‘These lugs are close to one another and are more fragile than the other lugs encountered in this kit, Wherever possible, the ‘wiring sequence deseribes connection of both wire ends to reduce the possibility of lug strain by an unconnected wire end. When this is not possible, follow the instructions and Pictorial Diagram closely so that the direction of the wire may be formed prior to soldering to avoid undue Tug strain and flexing. Because the lugs are small, do not attempt to bend a hook in the end of the wire before inserting. Simply push the straight wire end through the lug hole, solder, and then ‘cut off excess wire on the other side with your side cutters. Use care when cutting the excess wire 5 )Prepare a 134” blue wire, One end is to be con- nected to MB lug #6, and the other end to TB lug 5, Form the wire prior to inserting through the lug holes to avoid strain, ‘Then insert the wires, solder both lugs, and cut off the excess wire ends 6( Prepare a 194” yellow wire. Form the wire prior to ingerting, and connect one end to MB lug #3 (S) Conneet the other end to TB lug #2 (8). Cut off yPrepare a 114” yellow wire, but remove ¥” of in- sulation from one end and the usual 4" from the other end. Form the wire, and feed the longer bared end throush RMB lug #7 across to RMB lug #1 Solder RMB lug #7 only. Connect the other end to LMB lug #3 (8). Cut excess wire. 8( )Prepare a 1/4” blue wire and similarly remove 14” of insulation from one end. Feed the longer bared end through LMB lug #1 to LMB lug #7, and solder LMB lug #1 only. Connect the other end to RMB lug #9 (S). Cut excess wire, 9% 10¢ 1 12 13 14 16¢ 18 19 2 22 23( Prepare a 194” black wire, remove 14” of insulation from one end, and feed the longer end through LMB lug #2 to LMB lug #8, Solder both. Cut excess wire. Connect the other end to RMB lug #3. )Prepare a 144” black wire as usual, Connect one end to LMB lug #9 (8). Connect the other end to RMB lug #8 (8). Cut excess wire )Strip about 114” of wire bare from the roll of black wire. Feed the wire through PLB lug #7 to PLB lug #1, solder both, and cut the excess wire, )Similarly connect PLB Iug #10 to PLB lug #4. Solder both, and cut the excess wire. Similarly connect HFB lug #7 to HFB lug #1. Solder both, and cut the excess wire )Similarly connect HFB lug #10 to HFB lug #4. Solder both, and cut the excess wire. )Prepare a 2” yellow wire, Form the wire in a small are toward the front panel, and connect one end to RMB lug #2 (S). Cut excess wire. Con- neet the other end to LFB lug #7. )Prepare a 21” blue wire, Form the wire in an are toward the front panel, and connect one end to RMB lug #3 (S-2). Cut excess wire. Connect the other end to LFB lug #1, )Prepare a 7%” yellow wire. Form the wire against the front panel just above the two switches. Connect cone end from tie right to PLB lug #8 (S). Connect the other end also jrom the right to MB lug #5 (S). Cut excess wire, )Prepare a 7” blue wire, Form the wire against the panel, too. Connect one end from the right to PLB lug #11 (S). Connect the other end from the left to MB lug #2 (S). Cut excess wire. This blue wire and the yellow wire from step 17, should lie flat against the panel 14” to 9% apart, yPrepare a 114" yellow wire. Form it in an are, and connect one end to LFB lug #8, Connect the other end to LEB lug #12. Prepare a 9%” yellow wire. Connect one end from the right to LFB lug #8 Bend the other end over the top of the front panel between BC and BAL before soldering both wires at LFB lug #8. Cut ex- cess wire. ‘The other end is connected later. )Prepare a 144” blue wire. Form it in an are, and connect one end to LFB lug #2, Connect the other end to LEB lug #6. )Prepare a 494" blue wire. Connect one end from the left to LEB lug #2. Form the wire toward the front and then horizontally to the right under the hole for BAL. Solder both wires at LEB lug #2. Cut ex: ‘cess wire. The other end is connected later. )Select a 83 pif capacitor and cut its Tends to 14”, Position the part above LFB, and connect one lead to LEB lug #7 (S-2). Connect the other end to LFB lug #12 (8-2). Cut excess wire. 2A( Select the remaining .23 pf capacitor and cut its leads to 14”. Position this part next to the other capacitor above LFB, and connect one lead to LFB lug #1 ($-2). Connect the other end to LFB lug #6 ($2). Cut excess wire, 25( _)Install the balance control #160303 in the lower hole at the position BAL (if more than one hole is sup- plied), and fasten with a %” nut. Note the tab on the control which engages a small hole in the panel to assure correct positioning. Double check to be sure that you install each eontrol in, its correct location, and that the lugs are positioned as shown in the Pictorial Diagram. Tf the locating tab of a control is bent flat, raise it with a serewdriver to properly engage the hole. Tgnore the two 3%” holes between the button switches, if supplied. Each of the four control potentiometers have their lugs numbered as follows; When viewed from the rear Gnside the chassis), the numbers increase clockwise from 1 to 3 fon the front section (right channel, generally yellow wire) and from 4 to 6 on the rear (left or usually blue wire) 26( Connect the free end of the blue wire from LF lug #2 to BAL lug #6 (8). Use care not to flex this, wire on LFB to avoid straining the lug, You may wish to hold the middle of the wire temporarily against the front panel with your finger as you manipulate the free end into final position. 27( )In a similar manner, connect the free end of the yellow wire from LPB lug #8 to BAL Tug #1 (S) ‘Avoid straining the lug on LFB. 28( Install the volume control #160153 in the lower hole at position VOL (if more than one hole is supplied) and fasten with a %"" nut, The tab on the control engages a small hole in the panel to assure correct positioning. 29( )Prepare a 514” yellow wire, and connect it from the loft to VOL lug #2 (S). Position this wire against the front panel and connect the other end to HEB lug #8 (S). Cut excess wire 30 )Prepare a 6” blue wire, and similarly connect it from the left to VOL lug #5 (S). Position this wire against the front panel and eonneet the other end to HEB lug #11 (8). Cut excess wire 81( Install the bass control #160104 in the lower hole at position BC (if more than one hole is supplied) , and fasten with a %” nut. ‘The tab on the control en- gages a small hole in the panel to assure correct, positioning 82()Prepare a 3%” yellow wire, and connect it from the left to BC lug #3, Do not solder. Position it against the panel and connect the other end to TCB lug #7 (S). Cut excess wire, 33( )Prepare a $14" black wite, and connect it from the left to BC lug #1. Position it against the panel and connect the other end to TCB lug #8 ($). Cut ex: 1834 39 40 An 42 43( 440 450 “4 Prepare a 44/4” blue wire, and connect it from the cht to BC lug #6, Position it against the panel under BC and connect the other end to TCB lug #10 (8), Cut excess wire )Prepare a 314” black wire, and connect it from the left to BC Tug #4. Connect the other end to ‘TCB lug #11 (S). Cut excess wire. Install the treble control #160104 in the lower hole ‘at position TC (if more than one hole is supplied) , ‘and fasten it with a %” nut. The tab on the control engages a small hole in the panel to assure correct positioning, )Select a 15 pf small dise eapacitor and cut its leads to %” each. Connect one lead to TC lug #2, and the other lead to TC lug #1 )Prepare a 344” yellow wire, and connect it from the left to TC lug #2 (8-2). Position this wire close to ‘TC against the panel, and connect the other end to ‘TCB lug #3 (S). Cut excess wire. )Seleet the remaining 15 pf eapacitor and cut its leads to %” each, Connect one lead to TC lug #5, and the other lead to TC lug #4, yPrepare a 344” blue wire, and connect it from the left to TC lug #5 ($2). Position this wire close to "TC, and connect the other end to 'TCB lug #6 (S). Cut excess wire, )Prepare a 13” yellow wire, and connect one end to VOL lug #3 (S). Connect the other end to BAL. lug #2 (8) )Prepare a 444" black wire, but remove 1” of insula- tion from one end, Feed the longer bared end from the right through VOL lug #1 to BAL lug #3. Sol der both lugs. Bend the other end over the top of the front panel, for it will be connected later. )Prepare a 134” blue wire, and connect one end to VOL lug #6 (S). Connect the other end to BAL lug #5 (8) )Prepare a 134” black wire, and connect one end to BAL lug #4 (S). Connect the other end to VOL lug #4. )Select the hack panel assembly, and two #6 black sheet metal screws, Place the back panel in position, after bending the several single and twisted pairs of leads away from the panel at the bottom. Insert the serews only in the corner hole at exch end. The screws cut their own threads and therefore some force is required. Do not tighten the serows com- pletely so that the panel can be tilted outwards at about 2 45° angle for working. You may wish to “pre-thread” the other hole at each end to make upright panel mounting easier in the future. )Position each twisted pair of wires connected to the back panel down to the chassis and across to the right end of the Gbutton switch, and then sharply left to their approximate final locations on switch PLB, Try to keep the pairs %” to 14" apart as they ‘cross the chassis. It is not possible to keep them separate at PLB. 47( )Connect the blue signal wire from input socket #7 (the yellow wire twisted with this blue wire is for shielding) to PLB lug #3 (S). Avoid straining the PLB lug, and see that the yellow shield wire remains unconnected, Cut excess wire, 48( In a similar manner, connect the black wire from input #8 to PLB lug #9 (S). ‘The yellow wire is shield, Do not strain the lug, and cut excoss wire 49()Similarly connect the blue wire from input #19 to PLB lug #6 (8). The black wire is shield, Do not strain the lug, and cut excess wire, 50( )As before, connect the yellow wire from input #20 to PLB lug #12 (S). ‘The black wire is shield. Do not strain the lug, and cut excess wire. SELECTOR SWITCH ASSEMBLY ‘The lug numbers of the selector switch increase clockwise from left to right, as shown in the Pictorial Diagram, and each section adjacent to a printed circuit board comprises ‘two “wafers”. For example, the first section behind the front panel consists of two wafers, “AF” (A-section, F-front), and “AR” (A-section, R-rear). Most of the lugs are located on the top half of the wafers for easy connection. 1()Install the selector switch in the lower hole at posi- tion SS (if more than one hole is supplied), and fasten only finger tight with a %4” nut. Then select the 114” wide, L-shaped switch brace, two screws, four nuts, and four lockwashers. Mount the brace fon the two screws protruding from the back of the selector switch. Use the lower holes, if more than ‘one set is supplied. Fasten the brace to the switch with nuts over lockwashers, and then fasten the brace to the chassis with two sets of hardware. Firmly tighten all the brace hardware, and finally the 9” nut on the front, 2( Connect the longer black wire from the back panel short lug #5:6 to selector switch wafer AR lug +7. Do not solder. 8( )Conneet the remaining shorter black wire from short lug #17-18 to BR lug #7, 4 )Prepare a 614" yellow wire, and connect one end to MB lug #1 from the left’ (S). Cut excess wire, Position the wire carefully in an are toward the chassis and connect the other end to BF lug #1 on ss. )Prepare an 834” yellow wire, but remove 9” of in- sulation from one end. Connect the shorter prepared end to BF lug #1 on SS ($2). Position the wire toward the chassis, and connect the longer prepared end through input lug #21 to input lug #22. Solder Doth lugs. 6( Prepare a 4” blue wire, and connect one end to MB lug #4 from the right (S). Cut excess wire, Posi- 7m aC 9 10¢ 11 12¢ 13( tion the wire in an are under the selector switeh and connect the other end to AF lug #1 on SS. )Prepare a 1044” blue wire, but remove 4” of insula. tion from one end. Conneet the shorier prepared end to AF lug #1 on SS (S-2). Position this wire just under the lugs on the left side of SS and con- nect the longer prepared end through input lug #9 to input Iug #10. Solder both lugs. )Prepare a 12” blue wire and a 1044” yellow wire, but remove 14” of insulation from one end of each wire. Start with the longer prepared ends even, and twist them uniformly together to within 14” of the other end of the yellow wire. Connect the blue wire from the longer prepared end through BR lug #8 to BF lug #2 on SS, and solder both lugs. Connect the cor- responding yellow wire through BR lug #9 to BF lug #5 on SS, and solder both lugs, Position the twisted pair toward the chassis to the right of SS to the back panel. Connect the other end of the yellow wire to input lug #15 (S). Connect the re- ‘maining blue end to input lug #18 (S). Prepare a 6” yellow wire, and connect one end to ‘TB lug #3 from the left (S). Cut excess wire. Posi- tion the wire about 1” off the chassis adjacent to the left side of SS, and connect the other end to BF lug #3 on SS, )Prepare a 1044" yellow wire, and a 1044” black wire but remove insulation from one end only of the black wire, Start with the two prepared ends and twist them uniformly together to within 94” of the other end of the yellow wire. Twist the black around the yellow wire to form a circle, and then cut off any excess black wire. Connect the yellow wire from the prepared ends to input lug #17 (8), Connect the corresponding black wire to short lug #15-16. Posi- tion this pair around the right end of SS, adjacent to the blue and yellow twisted pair, and connect the other end of the yellow wire to BF lug #3 on SS (8-2). ‘The black end remains without connection. Prepare a 10%” blue wire, and a 1044” black wire, but remove insulation from only one end of the black wire, Ina similar manner, twist the two wires uniformly together to within %” of the end of the blue wire, form a circle of black wire, and cut off any excess wire. Connect the blue wire from the prepared ends to input lug #16 (S). Connect the corresponding black wire to short lug #15-16 (S-3) Position this pair adjacent to the other two twisted pairs, and connect the other end of the blue wire to BF lug #4 on SS. The black end is unconnected. )Prepare a 64%” blue wire, and connect one end to ‘TB lug #1 from the left (S). Cut excess wire. Posi- tion the wire about 1” off the chassis just to the left of the selector switch, and connect the other end to BF lug #4 on SS ($2). )Prepare a 6” blue wire, a 6” yellow wire, and an 8” black wire. Start with the black wire 'Y/” longer MC 15¢ 16( 1% 18 than the other two wires, and twist all three uni formly together to within’ %4” of the other ends of the blue and yellow wires. ‘The black wire at this end is about 114” longer. Connect the black wie from the end protruding 44" to short lug #13-14 (S-2). Connect the corresponding blue wire to in- ut Iug #13 (S). Connect the corresponding yellow wire to input lug #14 ($). Connect the yellow wire at the other end to DR lug #8 on $3 (S). This lug, is below the frame on the selector switch, Connect the corresponding blue wire to DR lug #7 on SS (S) Connect the longer black wire to DR lug #6 on SS. )Propare an 11%” blue wire and a 10” yellow wire, but remove 16” of insulation from one end of each wire. Start with the longer prepared ends, and twist them uniformly together to within 44” of the other end of the yellow wire. Connect the blue wire from the longer prepared end through AR lug #8 to AF lug #2 on SS, and solder both lugs, Con- nect the corresponding yellow wire through AR lug #9 to AF lug #5 on SS, and solder both lugs. Position the twisted pair to the right of SS above the chassis to the back panel, Connect the other end of the yellow wire to input lug #3 (S). Connect the remaining blue end to input lug #6 (S). )Prepare a 414” yellow wire, and connect one end to TB lug 46 from the right (S). Cut excess wire. Position the wire counterclockwise around SS, and connect the other end to AF lug #3 on SS. )Prepare a 104” yellow wire, and a 1014” black wire, but remove insulation ftom only one end of the black wire, Start with the two prepared ends and twist them together to within 3” of the other end of the yellow wire. Twist the black around the yellow wire to form a circle, and then cut off any excess black wire, Connect the yellow wire from the prepared ends to input lug #5 (S). Connect the corresponding black wire to short lug #34. Position this pair along the right center of SS, and connect the other end of the yellow wire to AF lug #3 on $8 (S.2). The black end is not con- nected. Prepare 10%" blue wire, and a 104” black wire, but remove insulation from only one end of the black wire, In a similar manner, twist the two wires together to within 94” of the end of the blue wire, form a circle of black wire, and cut off any excess black wire, Conncet the blue wire from the prepared ends to input lug #4 (S). Connect the corresponding black wire to short lug #3-4 (S-3) Position this pair adjacent to the other twisted pairs connecting to the front wafers on $8, and connect the other end of the blue wire to AF lug #4 on SS. The black end is not connected. Prepare a 414” blue wire, and connect one end to ‘TB lug #4 from the right (S). Cut excoss wire Position the wire counterclockwise around SS, and conneet the other end to AF lug #4 on SS (S-2) 1519 DPrepare a 6” blue wire, a 6” yellow wire and an 8” black wire, Start with the black wire 14” longer than tho other two wires, and twist all three uni- formly together to within’ 14” of the other ends of the blue and yellow wires, ‘The black wire at this end is about 1%” longer. Connect the black wire from the end protruding %4” to short lug #1-2 (8-2). Connect the corresponding blue wire to in- put lug #1 (8). Connect the corresponding yellow wire to input lug #2 (S). Connect the yellow wire fat the other end to CR lug #8 on SS (S). This lug is below the frame on SS. Connect the corre- sponding blue wire to CR lug #7 on SS ($). Con: nect the longer black wire to CR lug #6 on SS. ‘This completes most of the wiring to the selector switeh, and all wiring to ‘TB and MB, Now is a good time to check that each lug on TB and MB is soldered, that there are no solder runs or blobs and that any excess wire ends are cut short, One wire should be soldered to ‘each of the six lugs on ‘'B and MB. Your PAT-5 is more than half completed, The work you have finished should look much like the accompany- ing photograph, Now turn to page 21 PAT-5 FUNCTIONAL BLOCK DIAGRAM FLAT FEEDBACK aa gs] [gs #2) |E5 g 8 R] RIAA FEEDBACK PC-33 + vowuMe CONTROL BALANCE CONTROL > « bo} ‘TO OTHER CHANNEL§ 0-33 toe 001 are es ( K sete Scheer rm 90 ly a esas we a ae (© = ‘SO-t0 He ' —-9-w0—| q ‘ine aon om 1° a 7 a 2 150k vf ‘3 1 r a I & ee sien “ SSF aT 32 109 Te leon ws ne Seaeiese SCR Pe~34 ‘un 3010 aL Cour ks aa four sarots. sem wan San es ton OL Fes TT sas S44 tur asm (ty LEFT AML sow WHERE Pt EM eM seve 080 ve SCHEMATIC DIAGRAM ae ev “ne rte | has) ‘ “17s DYNACON, fyi rs a _ a bat ck . ® utes ts +@) oe 18COMPONENT VALUES All resistors are 14 watt, 5%, unless otherwise indicated, R_ 1 150 ohms, 1 watt, 5% isis: R_ 2 56,000 ohms, ¥4 watt, 5% 113356 R101 820 ohms, 5 watt, 10% 120822 R102 1,000 ohms, 5 watt, 10%, 20107 R103 2,200 ohms, user? R104 2/200 ohms 9222 R201 150,000 ohms: 119154 R202 470 ohms, 14 watt, 5%, metal film 10872 R203 100,000 ohms, %4 watt, 5%, metal film 120105 R204 10,000 ohms, 44 watt, 5%, metal film 90100) R205 470 ohms, 14 watt, 5%, metal fm 10471 R206 27,000 ohms, % watt, 5%, metal film 120273 R207 18,000 ohms, % watt, 57%, metal film 30188 R208 10,000 ohms, Y4 watt, 5%, metal film 120103 R209 100 ohms, % watt, 5%, metal film 0101 R210 2,200 ohms, Ye watt, 5%, metal film 30222 R211 470 ohms, ¥% watt, 5%, metal film 0471 R212 27,000 ohms, % watt, 5%, metal film 20273 R213 470,000 ohms now R214 65,000 ohms, 14 watt, 5%, metal flim 130689 R215 1,000 ohms 1s102 R216 470,000 ohms sera R301 100,000 ohms nates R302 470 ohms niger R303 100,000 ohms igi04 R304. 1,000 ohms isto? R305 10,000 ohms isi02 R306 470,000 ohms nisere R307 1,000 ohms isi02 R308 1,000 ohms austoz R309 470,000 ohms sera R810 120,000 ohms sia RBLi_ 120,000 ohms size RS12 2,200 ohms iszze R313 1,000 ohms isio2 S14 10,000 ohms 18103 R315 10,000 ohms 119103 BIG 470,000 ohms nisere SIT 4,700 ohms nisare R318 51,000 ohms 119613 B19 1,000,000 ohms 18105 R320 470,000 ohms ser R821 470,000 ohms. nisa74 R822 10,000 ohms 9103 R323 10,000 ohms i903 R824 10,000 ohms n1si03 R325 10,000 ohms nies R326 1,000 ohms nisioe R327 1,000 ohms owe R828 4,700 ohms nis 329 560 ohms 19861 R330 2,000,000 ohms 118205 R831 750 ohms usr. QI01 NPN Transistor, $6020 s77021 Q201_ NPN ‘Transistor, BC 2390 sr7o18 202 NPN Transistor, BC 2378 577015 Q801_ PNP Transistor, EN3962 02962 302 NPN Transistor, SE4020 s72020 303. NPN Transistor, SE4010 572010 804 NPN Transistor, BC 2390 sr7018 C301 Integrated Circuit, LM3OLAH, sa7709 © 1 O1mid, 100v., dise zane © 2 38mid, 100v., 5%, mylar 20034 © 3. 470pf, 500v.,5% mica 2srant © 4 15pf,5%, NPO dise 234150 © 5 Olmed, 1400, dise 2aa103 C 6 O1mid, 1400v.,dise 2aai03 © 7 .02mfd, 500v., dise zara C101 100 mid, 16. electrolytic 2auie) C102 100mifd, 16v., electrolytic zaii01 C103 220-250 mid, 100v., electrolytic 294251 C104 220-250 mia, 100 v. electrolytic 2a4ast C105. 1 mfd, 100, dise paai04 €106 1 mid, 50 volt, electrolytic 2an.03 C107 220-250 mia, 100, eleetrolytie 204251 C108 01 mf, 1000v., dise 22si0s C109 01 mid, 100 v., dise 24103 C201 10mfd, 16v,, tantalum, ‘22100 €202 47 pf, 1000, dise 2aac7o €203 1000 mid, 6-10 v., electrolytic pane €204 0027 mid, 100v., 5%, mylar 264012 ©205 0082 mfd, 100 v., 5%, mylar ease €206 100 mfd, 50 v., electrolytic zaniot (2071 mid, 50v,, electrolytic panies C301 10 mid, 16.25 v., electrolytic aii08 302.01 mfd, 100 v., dise zanos ©6303 12 pf, 1000v., 5%, dise pasiz0 304.01 mfd, 100, dise zani00 €305 100 mfd, 16-25 v. electrolytic patio: C308 01 mfd, 100 v.,dise zai0a €307 10 mid, 16-25 v., electrolytic ‘eni0s €308- 10 mid, 16 v., tantalum. 282100 ©309 10 pf, 1000 v., dise z2n100 ©310 022 mid, 100 v., 5%, mylar 260223 C311 0047 mfa, 100, 5%, mylar zeaar2 C312 10 mfd, 16 v., tantalum e200 C313. .001 ma, 300 v., 5%, mica 2anssi002381 C314 5 mld, 16-25y,, electrolytic 293505, C315 15 mfd, 100v., 10%, mylar 268154 C316 01 mld, 100, dise ates C317 01 mld, 100 v., dise 2ai03 C318 10 pf, 1000 v,, dise 234100 0319 68 pf, 5OOV., dise za7680 ©6320 12 pf, 1000 v., 5%, dise pied 0321 50mfa, 10v., N-P. electrolytic 282806 0322 5 mfd, 16-25 v.,eleetrolytie 299505, ©6323. ,047 mf, 100v., 5%, mylar 25473 0324.47 mfd, 100. 5%, mylar ‘oars ©6325 820 pf, 100 v., 5%, mica saa) ©6326 .0082 mfd, 100 v., 5%, mylar pod (0327 , 01 mfd, 100 v., dise pase (©8328 * 01 mfd, 100, dise z3ee2 €329 120 pf, '1000 v., dise 21649125307 DIOL Zener diode, 15 v., 1w., 5% (INATAMA) ——ssoi15 D102 Zener diode, 15 v., 1w., 5% (INAT44A) ——s4on5, D103. Zener diode, 48 v.,0.5 w., 5% (1N5260B) — s4ose2 D104 Silicon diode, 200 ma, 200 prv swans D105. Silicon diode, 200 ma, 200 prv 44012 D106 Silicon diode, 200 ma, 200 prv suo D107 Silicon diode, 200 ma, 200 prv suo Volume control, 15,000 ohms 160159 Balance control, 30,000 ohms 160305 Bass control, 100,000 ohms 10108 ‘Treble control, 100,000 ohms 30108 Power transformer «454080 Fuse, Y ampere, slo-blo, 3AG. ‘342009 AUDIO CIRCUIT BOARD ASSEMBLY Prior to mounting the PC-34 printed circuit boards, it is necessary to connect the final wires to lugs on the 6- button switch, so that the other ends of theso wires may be easily connected after the boards have been installed. ‘The following six steps connect wires to the switch, whose other ends will be connected to the front PC-34 board, Each wire should be temporarily formed so that it lies just above and to the rear of the switch, and then to the right at about a 45° angle in the same plane as the front panel. ‘This forming helps to prevent undue strain on the lugs of the switch when connected to the board, 1 )Prepare a 434” yellow wire. Connect one end from the right to RMB lug #1 ($2). Cut excess wire, but note that RMB lugs #1 and #7 are connected. 2( )Prepare a 6” blue wire, Connect one end from the left to PLB lug #2 (8). Cut excess wire. 8( )Prepare a 544” black wire. Connect one end from the right to HFB lug #9 (S). Cut excess wire, AC Prepare a 54%” blue wire. Connect one end from the left to HFB lug #2 (S). Cut excess wire. 5( Prepare a 544” yellow wire. Connect one end from the left to HIB lug #3 (S). Cut excoss wire, 6( Prepare a 54” black wire. Connect one end from the left to TCB lug #5 (S). Cut excess wire. ‘The next six steps connect wires to the switch, whose other ends will be connected to the rear PC-34 board. Each wire should be formed from the switch to the ‘chassis, and to the right on a 45° angle on the chassis. 2” to the rear of the switch, bend each wire straight up. (Prepare a 79” yellow wire. Connect one end from the right to LMB lug #7 ($2). Cut excess wire, bbut note that LMB lugs #1 and #7 are connected. 8( Prepare a 744” blue wire, Connect one end from the left to PLB lug #5 (S). Cut excess wire 9( Prepare a 794” black wire. Connect one end from the right to HIB lug #12 (S). Cut exeoss wire. 10( )Prepare a 79%” blue wire, Connect one end from the left to HFB lug #5 (8). Cut excess wire, 11( )Prepare a 7%” yellow wire, Conneet one end from the left to HIB lug #6 (S). Cut excess wire. 12( )Prepare an 8” black wire. Connect one end from the left to TCB lug #2 (S). Cut excess wire, This wire passes under the left rear side of TCB. Now is a good time to check the connections on the 6- button switch. See that no solder blobs or excess wire connects other than the intended lug. ‘The following are lugs which do not have connections: TCB lugs #1, #4, 99 and #12; LFB lugs #3, #4, #5, #9, #10 and 611; RMB lugs #4, #5, #6, #10, #11 and’ #12; LMB lugs #4, 45, #6, #10, $11 and #12, Set the chassis and back panel assembly aside. You will now prepare the printed circuit board assemblies for installation, In this section, whenever you prepare a wire, “tin” the end to be connected to an eyelet on a circuit. board by heating it and applying a small amount of solder before installation, It will make connection easier to the eyelets on the boards. In most cases, it is easiest to heat the solder-filled eye- let until the solder melts, and then insert the wire, mak ing sure the iron now touches both the eyelet and the bared wire so that a smooth flow of solder is apparent. ‘When remove the iron and hold the wire steady while the connection cools. Afterward wiggle the wire to be sure the connection is secure and no movement is apparent from the other side of the board. There should be a smooth, shiny flow of solder from the wire to the eyelet ‘and from the eyelet to the foil circuitry on the board, obscuring the eyelet, If in doubt, reheat the connection and add a bit more solder. Use reasonable care, for grossly excessive heat may cause the circuitry to separate from the board, If this happens, you can make a repair by soldering a piece of bare wire along the affected area, Be very careful not to “bridge” solder across adjacent eyelets where they are closely spaced. Also do not allow any excess solder to fall onto the boards where it could create a bridge on the circuitry which would cause a mal- iunction and be very difficult to locate, to say nothing of possible damage to components. 13( Select both PC-34 circuit boards, Lay the boards ‘eomponents side down with the numbered eyelets toward you. While the 27 eyelets on each board will already be filled with some solder, we suggest adding a small amount of additional solder while heating each eyelet with your iron. Once soldered, clean out the following solder-filled eyelets on each board with a wood toothpick so that later connee- tion of wires will be easier: Fyelets #6, #8, #16, #19 and #26. 14( Prepare two 134” black wires. From the foil side eonneet one end of one wire to eyelet #3 on one of the boards (S). Notice that eyelets #2, #3 and #4 are not numbered, but eyelet #3 is below the other eyelets (electrically these three eyelets aro iden- tical). Connect the other end of this wire to eye. let #10 (S). Position the wire away from the row of eyelets down on the foil side. Similarly solder the second wire between eyelets #3 and #10 on the other PC-34 board. 15()Prepare two 3%” black wires, Tn a similar manner connect one wire between eyelets #11 and #25 on. fone board, and solder both. Connect the remain- ing wire between eyelets #11 and #25 on the sec- fond board, and solder both, Position these wires away from the eyelets, 16( )Select two U-shaped brackets, 8 sets of hardware, ‘and the two PC-34 boards, Install the brackets on the components side of the boards (not the foil side) so that both boards face the same way, with the row of eyelets at the top (the open parts of the U-brackets), Firmly tighten the hardware. 2117( Place the chassis and back panel assembly in front ‘of you, and mount the bracket and board assembly in the chassis so that the components face the front and the foil sides face to the rear. The six longer unconnected wires from the 6-button switch (all are straight up) should be fed between the two boards land between the brackets. The remaining six wires bent parallel to the front panel should Iie between the switch and the front PC-34. Use two sets of hardware to install the assembly. Insert the screws from outside (under) the chassis, ‘You willl now connect the free ends of the wires from the switch to the rear board. Bach wire is conneeted from tse components side of the board, and soldered from the foil side. 18( The black wire from TCB lug #2 to eyelet #17 S) 19( The blue wire from HFB lug #5 to eyelet #14 (S). 20( The yellow wire from HIB lug #6 to eyelet #13 ©). 21( The black wire from HIB lug #12 to eyelet #12 (8). 22( )'The yellow wire from LMB lug 47 to eyelet #5 (s). 23( The blue wire from PLB lug #5 to eyelet #1 (8). Each of these wires should be positioned away from its eyelet to about midway between the two boards, and down to the chassis, ‘You will now connect the free ends of the wires from the switch (0 the front board, As before, cach wire is connected from the components side. 24( The black wire from TCB lug #5 to eyelet #17 (s). 25( The blue wire from HIFB lug #2 to eyelet #14 (S). 26( The yellow wire from HFB lug #3 to eyelet #13 s). 27( The black wire from HFB lug #9 to eyelet #12 (8). 28( The yellow wire from RMB lug #1 to eyelet #5 s) 29( The blue wire from PLB lug #2 to eyelet #1 (S). Each of these wires should be positioned away from its eyelet to about midway between the front hoard and the switch, and down to the switch, ‘This completes the wir- ing of the switch to the boards, 30( )Prepare a 514” yellow wire, and connect one end to TC lug #3 (S). Connect the other end to eye: Jet #27 on the rear board (S). 22, BC 82 33( 34( 35 36 37 88( 39 40( rr 42( 43¢ 440 »Prepare a 6” blue wire, and connect one end to TC lug #1 ($2). Connect the other end to eyelet #24 on the rear board (8). )Prepare a 3” yellow wire, and connect one end to PC lug #6 (S). Connect the other end to eyelet #27 on the front board (S). )Prepare a 3%” blue wire, and connect one end to ‘TC lug #4 (S-2). Connect the other end to eyelet #24 on the front board (8). Prepare a 2%" yellow wire, and connect one end to BC lug #6 (S-2). Connect the other end to eye- let #22 on the front board (8). )Prepare a 244” blue wire, and connect one end to BC lug #5 (8). Connect the other end to eyelet #21 on the front board (S) )Prepare a 3” black wire, and connect one end to BC lug #4 (S-2). Connect the other end to eyelet #20 on the front board (8). )Prepare a 6” yellow wire, and connect one end from the right to BC lug #3 (8-2). Connect the other end to eyelet #22 on the rear board (S). Prepare a 5%" blue wire, and connect one end from the right to BC lug #2 (8). Connect the other end to eyelet #21 on the rear board (S). )Prepate a 5%4” black wire, and connect one end from the right to BC lug #1 ($-2). Connect the other end to eyelet #20 on the rear board (S). )Prepare a 2” yellow wire, and connect one end to eyelet #8 on the front board from the foil side. Connect the other end straight across to eyelet #8 on the rear board from the components side. Solder both eyelets. )Prepare a 2” blue wire, and connect one end to eyelet #6 on the front board from the foil side, Connect the other end straight across to eyelet #6 fon the rear board from the components. side. Solder both eyelets. )Prepare a 3” yellow wiro, and connect one end to eyelet #18 on the rear board from the foil side (S). Connect the other end to eyelet #9 on the same board from the foil side ($), Position this wire away from the eyelets down the foil side. )Prepare a 294” blue wire, and connect one end to eyelet #15 on the rear board from the foil side (8). Conneet the other end to eyelet #7 on the same board from the foil side (S). Position this wire away from the eyelets. yPrepare a 2” black wire, and connect one end to eyelet #2 on the rear board from the foil side (S). Connect the other end to BR lug #7 on SS (S-2). )Prepare another 2” black wire, and connect one end to eyelet #2 on the front board from the foil side ($). Connect the other end to AR lug #7 on SS ($2). 46 41 Connect the free end of the black wire from VOL lug #1 to eyelet #4 on the front board (S). See that the three black wires to eyelets #2, #3 and #4, which are connected together, are securely soldered. Prepare @ 5%” black wire, and connect one end to VOL lug #4 (S-2). Connect the other end to eye- let #4 on the rear board (S). See that the three black wires to eyelets #2, #3 and #4 are securcly soldered, Sot the chassis and back panel assembly aside for a moment, 48¢ 49 50¢ tg 52 53 5a )Select both PC-83 boards, and lay the boards com- ponents side down with the eyelets toward you. Add a smmall amount of additional solder to each of the nine eyelets. Once soldered, clean out solder- filled eyelets #4 and #8 on each board with a tooth- ick to make future connection easier. )Prepare two 214” yellow wires. Connect one end of one wire to eyelet #6 on one of the boards from the foil side (S). Connect the other end of this wire to eyelet #1 (S). Similarly solder the second wire between eyelets #6 and #1 on the other PC- 83 board. Position these wires away from the row of eyelets down on the foil side. )Select two U-shaped brackets, 8 sets of hardware, and the boards, Install the brackets on the com- ponents side of the boards so that the boards face the same way, with the row of eyelets at the top. Firmly tighten the hardware. YPlace the chassis assembly in front of you, and mount the bracket and board assembly in the chassis so that the components face to the front and the foil side to the rear. The four twisted pairs of wires from the back panel should pass under the assembly, and the four single wires from the back panel to the selector switch should pass to the right of the assembly, between it and the selector switch, Use two sets of hardware, Insert the screws from outside (under) the chassis, Prepare a 2” yellow wire, and connect one end to eyelet #8 on the front PC-83 board from the foil side. Connect the other end straight across to eye- let #8 on the rear PC-33 board from the compo- nents side, Solder both eyelets. )Prepare a 714” blue wire, and connect one end to eyelet #7 on the front board from the components side (S). Position the wire under the selector switch, and connect the other end to AF lug #6 on 88 (8). Prepare a 714” yellow wire, and conneet one end to eyelet #7 on the rear board (S). Position the wire under the selector switch, and connect the other end to BF lug #6 on $8 (8) 55( )Prepare a 2” blue wire, and connect one end to eyelet #2 on the front board (8), Connect the other end to CR lug #5 on SS (S). 56()Prepare a 2” yellow wire, and connect one end to eyelet #2 on the rear board (8). Connect the other end to DR lug #5 on SS (8). 57( )Prepare a 244” black wire, and connect one end to eyelet #3 on the rear board (8). Connect the other end to DR lug #6 on 8S (S-2) 58(_)Prepare another 244” black wire, and connect one ‘end to eyelet #3 on the front board (S). Connect the other end to CR lug #6 on SS (S-2). ‘This completes the wiring of the selector switch. ‘The following }ugs on S8 ate unconnected: AR lugs #10 and #11; BR lugs #10 and #11; CF lugs #1, #2, #3 and #4; DF lugs #1, #2, #3 and #4. AF lug #2 and AR lug #8 are connected together; BF lug #2 and BR lug #8 are similarly connected. AF lug #5 and AR lug #9 are con- nected together; BF lug #5 and BR lug #9 are similarly connected together. All other connected lugs should not touch any other lug, or the frame of the switch. 59()Prepare an 8” yellow wire, but remove 1” of in- sulation from one end, Connect the shorter pre- pared end to eyelet #23 on the rear PO-34 board irom the foil side (S). Feed the longer prepared end from the left through input lug #24 ($2) to input lug #23 (8), Position the wire on the chassis adjacent to the left side of the PC-33 boards. 60( )Prepare an 8%” blue wire, but remove %” of in- sulation from one end. Connect the shorter pre- pared.end to eyelet #23 on the front PC-34 board irom the foil side ($8), Feed the longer prepared end from the left through input lug #12 (S-2) to input lug #11 (S), ‘The wire will be fairly taut with the back panel tilted out, Set the assembly aside, POWER SUPPLY BOARD WIRING ‘You will next install all the power supply parts on eir- cuit board PC-32, White markings and lines on the board indicate the placement of each part and where the leads of the parts are inserted. Most of the parts are installed from this marked side. Only two resistors, R101 and R102, are mounted on the ioil side of the board. Except where specifically indicated otherwise, mount the parts against the board, just as the parts are mounted on the preassembled circuit boards. Bach part is identified by a art number, color code, or written value, Bend the leads as required to fit the space between the marked holes (the upright parts, including the Q1O1 transistor, do not need bending). Then push the leads through the holes and spread them slightly to hold the part in place for soldering, Solder each lead carefully to the foil side of the board, making certain that the solder flows all around the lead and smoothly onto the foil, without any bridges to other parts of the circuitry. Cut off all excess leads, ‘There is no substitute for good soldering technique. 23uC 2 3 4 En 6 1 8 Eye 10 24 )To make connections to the eyelets easier, “tin’ all 11 numbered eyelets along the top edge and the 4 eyelets without numbers near the center of the board, Make certain that there is a smooth flow of solder all around each eyelet onto the foil path- ways, but avoid solder bridges between points which fare not common, Once soldered, clean out the 4 solder-filled eyelet holes for ROL and R102 with a wood toothpick so that the 5 watt resistors may be mounted easily in future steps. VInstall the two 2200 ohm ¥% watt resistors (red- red-red) in positions 103 and R104. Solder all 4 leads. VInstall the four diodes, part #544012, in positions D104, D105, D106 and D107, The sketch below shows the diodes more than twice size, ‘Their cath: ‘ode end is marked with a stripe, an atrow head, or a colored tip. Install each so that the arrow head fon the board points toward the marked end of the diode. Note that these diodes point in alternate directions, Solder all 8 leads. s—-— ——- —Sb—- — DInstall the two zener diodes, part #540115 (IN4744A), in positions D101 and D102. Install each so that the arrow head on the board points to- ward the marked end of the diode, Note that these Giodes point in opposite directions. Solder all 4 leads. MInstall the single zener diode, part #540543 (IN5260B), in position D108, Install the diode so that the arrow head on the board points toward the marked end of the diode, Solder both leads, MInstall the transistor, part #577021 (SE 6020), in Position QIOI. ‘The flat on the transistor faces’ to- ward eyelet #1. Do not place it against the board, but mount it about 14” above the board. A match stick can be used as a spacer between the transis- tor and the board until the leads are soldered, ‘Note that if the transistor leads are not bent by force, they will fit easily into the board holes only ‘one way. Solder all 3 leads. MInstall the .1 af dise capacitor in. position C105 (do not confuse it with the two 01 jf dise capacitors). Solder both leads, VInstall the smaller .O1 pf dise eapacitor (with 4” lead spacing) in position C109, Solder both leads. MInstall the larger .O1 pif dise eapacitor in position C108. Solder both leads. DInstall the 820 ohm 5 watt resistor in position RIOL on the reverse (foil) side of the board. Do not mount it against the board, but allow the leads to support it %" to 1%" above the board. Solder the 2 leads to the already soldered eyelets, but make absolutely certain that you have a smooth flow of solder from each lead to its eyelet, and from the eyelet to the foil circuitry. A good solder connection is essential, An incomplete connection here, or to the resistor in the next step, is the most ‘common error in assembling this kit, Care will avoid a costly repair, LLC Install the 1000 chm (1K) 5 watt resistor in post- tion R102 on the reverse side of the board, 14” to ¥" above the board, as in the previous step, Solder both leads. Again, double check the solder- ing from the lead to eyelet to circuitry. 12(__ Select the 1 juf, 50 volt small electrolytic capacitor for position C106, Before mounting this part and the capacitors in the two following steps, notice that they are marked for polarity with a (+) sign, a (-) sign, or sometimes both symbols, Some capacitors have an arrow surrounding the symbol to further identify lead polarity. ‘The board indi- cates a (++) symbol only for correct orientation. Note that this capacitor may be supplied in either ‘an upright or a laydown format and, as a resull, there are two holes on the board in position C106 for the (=) lead. Only one of these holes is used, de- pending on the shape of the part. Install’ the capacitor, and solder both leads. 18( Install the two 100 pf, 16 volt upright capacitors in. positions C101 and C102. Note that their orientations are reversed, and obsorve polarity. Solder all 4 lends. 14(_ Install the three large 220 (or 250) if, 100 volt electrolytic capacitors in positions C108, C104 and C107. Observe polarity. Solder all 6 leads. Before continuing, double check your work to see that all leads (and the 4 eyelets holding R101 and R102) aro securely soldered to the circuitry, that no bridges of solder occur between isolated parts of the circuit, and that all leads are cut short. Each solder connection should be shiny and smooth. If in doubt, go over the connections again with a hot iron and a very small amount of ad ional solder. Set aside the wired PC-32 board temporarily, and place the chassis assembly in front of you. FINAL ASSEMBLY 1 Install the headphone jack at position HJ on the front panel, and fasten with a 34” nut, Orient the lugs as shown in the Pictorial Diagram, and avoid excessive force as the nut is tightened, since the threads and body of the jack are plasti 2( )Install the power switch with integral light at posi- tion PS, and observe that the dark red jewel for lighting’ is oriented toward the bottom of the chassis. Press it into place from the outside, No hardware is used, It will be helpful to connect a few short wires to the speaker switch SP prior to installing it, For orientation, the front panel locating lug is in line with lugs #6 and #12. If electrostatic headphones are to be used, see HEADPHONES ‘on page 30 before step 5 below. 3( Select the speaker switch. Prepare a 24%” black ‘wire, but remove 1” of insulation from one end. Feed the longer prepared end through SP lug #5 to lug #6 (front wafer). Solder lug #5 only. Feed the free end of the wire between the front wafer and the mounting flange of SP, and connect the other end to SP lug #3, 4( Prepare another 2%” black wire, but remove 1” of insulation from one end. In a similar manner, eed the longer prepared end through SP lug #11 to lug #12 (rear wafer). Solder lug #11 only. Con- nect the other end to SP lug #9. 5( )Select a 150 chm, 1 watt resistor (brown-green- brown). Bend and cut its leads as shown in the full size sketch below, identified as Resistor #1, Con: neet the lead with the bend in it to lug #6 (S-2) Note on the Pictorial Diagram that the other end will be connected to HJ lug #2, and orient the resistor in the correct direction. [som 1 RESISTOR 2 6( )Select the remaining 150 ohm resistor; bend and cut its leads as shown for Resistor #2. Connect ‘the lead with the bend af the end to lug #12 (S-2). Orient the resistor correctly for connection to HJ lug #1. 7( Minstall the speaker switch in the lower hole at posi tion SP (if more than one hole is supplied). Note the tab on the control which engages a small hole in the panel to assure correct positioning. Before fastening with a 3%” nut, feed the free end of the resistor from SP lug #6 to HJ lug #2, and the free end of the resistor from SP lug #12 to HJ lug #1, "Tighten the nut, Solder the connections at HJ lug #1 and HJ lug #2, and cut off excess leads. 8( )Select the power transformer, the two #6 x 1” screws, the two #6 nuts with integral lockwashers (KEP nuts), and the two %" tubular spacers. Insert the screws from outside (under) the chassis, slip the spacers over the screws on the inside, in- stall the power transformer, and fasten with KEP nuts, Note the orientation of the transformer leads, and that the transformer itself is mounted off the chassis on the spacers. You may wish to wind the leads clockwise around the transformer land secure them with tape to get them temporarily out of the way. Note angular transformer mounting. a 10 1 12 13 14 15 16( 17% )Select the PC-82 board, the remaining U-bracket, the Lbracket, and 4 sets of hardware. Install the brackets pointing away from the board, mounted on, the components side. The U-bracket is on the right side (eyelet #1) and the L-bracket on the left, with the eyelets at the top. Firmly tighten the hardware, )Select the large front-to-back brace, the PC-32 assembly, and six sets of hardware. ‘The top sur- face of the brace is flat, while the bottom has two cutouts, one at either end. The end with the taller cutout mounts on the front, Install the U-bracket ‘on the brace with two sets of hardware. ‘Tighten ‘the hardware, Next install the U:bracket and the L-bracket to the chassis with two more sets of hardware, Then install the brace to the front with the remaining hardware, Make sure that adjacent wires are clear of the brace. Tighten the hardware. ‘The back panel to brace hardware is mot yet in- stalled. YInstall the length of rubber extrusion ‘on the top edge of the brace, as shown in the Pictorial Diagram. ‘The rubber is open on one side and sim- ply slips on the brace. yPrepare a 714” yellow wire, but remove 2” of in- sulation from one end, Feed the longer prepared end through eyelet #19 on the rear PC-34 board from the foil side, straight across to eyelet #19 on the front PC-34. Solder both eyelets, Connect the other end to eyelet #3 on PC-32 from the com- ponents side (S) )Prepare a 9” blue wire, but remove 2” of insulation from one end. Feed the longer prepared end through, eyelet #16 on the rear PC-34, across to eyelet #16 on the front PC-34, Solder both eyelets, Connect the other end to eyelet #7 on PC-32 (8) Prepare a 514” black wire, but remove 2” of in- sulation from one end, Again feed the longer pre- pared end through eyelet #26 on the rear PC-34, across to eyelet #26 on the front PC-34, and solder both, Connect the other end to eyelet #2 on PCB (S). )Prepare a7” black wire, but remove 2” of insula- tion from one end. Feed the longer prepared end through eyelet #4 on the front PC-33 from the components side, across to eyelet #4 on the rear PC-33. Solder both eyelets, Connect the other end to eyelet #1 on PC-82 (S) )Prepare a 544” yellow wire, and connect one end to eyelet #9 on the front PC-33 (8). Connect the other end to eyelet #4 on PC-32 (8). )Twist together the two red and the red-yellow leads from the power transformer, Connect the red-yellow lead to eyelet #8 on PC-82 (S). Con ect one red lead to eyelet #6 (8). Connect the remaining red lead to eyelet #5 (8) 25