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Starter Pack Plush Sewing Guide Pattern 1

Sewing patterns for plushies

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)

228 views93 pages

Starter Pack Plush Sewing Guide Pattern 1

Sewing patterns for plushies

Uploaded by

alexissinophile

We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.

Available Formats

Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

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starter pack

plush
a f r ee b eg in n e rs' g u id e f o r
plush s ew i n g th ro u g h 4 p ro je c ts

a free sewing pattern by

starter pack plush 2 free sewing tutorial

i n trod u ction
This project is for a simple chubby animal plush of varying styles and difficulty. It ranges from the most novice
level construction up to something for a confident beginner. As you create the plush and work up the levels, this
will take you through all the techniques I use to make soft toys in my style.
You may find different methods elsewhere, but I try to cover all the options I can to make the kind of round,
squishy plush you usually see from my collections. You'll find this tutorial assumes you're starting from
absolute 0 -- no sewing machine, no tools, no fabric. This is in case you're not sure if you'll like this hobby and
you want to test it out before buying too much.
So if you're someone who learns best by doing, this pattern is for you! Whether that means you need a sample
project to work on as you learn, or you'd rather see practical examples of techniques instead of illustrations.
You'll work up from 1/10 in difficulty up to 4/10. So if you feel pretty good after working through this tutorial,
you can be sure you can handle similar projects with ease!

level 1: level 2: level 3: level 4:

pg. 4-35 pg. 36-47 pg. 48-63 pg. 64-82
techniques explained: techniques explained: techniques explained: techniques explained:
• pg. 4-5 Starter • pg. 38-40; 44 • pg. 56-57 Sewing • pg. 66-67
tools Darts curved edges Matching
• pg. 8-12 Choosing • pg. 41-43 Sewing • pg. 56-57 numbered points
fabrics extras into seams Matching points & • pg. 74 Whip stitch
• pg. 13-17 Cutting • pg. 46 Ladder notches • pg. 78 Needle
fabric stitching pieces • pg. 59 Gathering; sculpting
• pg. 18-26 together gathering stitch
Applique (and face
alternatives)
• pg. 31 Clipping
curves & corners
• pg. 34 Ladder
stitching openings
sew desu ne?
| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2022 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
starter pack plush 3 free sewing tutorial

p ri nt ing th e patte r n

For the level 1 plush, print

pages 83-85.
For the level 2 plush, print
pages 86-87.
For the level 3 plush, print
pages 88-90.
For the level 4 plush, print
pages 90-93.
1 2
If you’re unfamiliar with At the print dialog box, check the Print the pages needed for the
printing and assembling a box that says print at “Actual Size” or file. You might have one or more.
.pdf pattern, read the steps to 100%. Any other selection (such as Either way, be sure you have the full
“Fit to page”) will distort the pattern collection by noting the page numbers
follow. so it’s slightly larger or smaller and we in the corner.
don’t want that.

3 4 5
It’s likely your printer will have a To line up the pattern pages, match up You can trace the patterns onto a
margin that ensures your image the corresponding diamond shapes. different paper, or you can also just
doesn’t print to the very edge. Each diamond will have a letter, so cut them straight from the printer
Assembly will be easier if you trim off it’s simply a matter of matching A1 paper -- be sure that each piece is
this blank margin edge. This will give to A2, B3 to B4 and so on. The faint fully taped together along the joins
you pages that overlap slightly during gray lines indicate the border of every so they don’t fall apart when you cut
assembly. If you trim across the gray page, you should be able to line those them.
outline boxes, this will give you pages up as well. When the diamond goes
that don’t overlap but rather butt together, tape it in place.
against each other. If you have many pages, it’s easier
to tape up the pages into rows first.
Then tape the rows together into a full
block.

sew desu ne?

| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2022 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
starter pack plush 4 free sewing tutorial

starte r tool s
If you are completely new to sewing, you may think you have to buy a lot of supplies to get
started. But actually for the most basic start, the tools you need may already be in your junk
drawer, and the materials may be in the bottom of your closet!
Follow the guide below to get started with the bare minimum, then add more supplies as you
feel more comfortable or earn more funds.

absolute basic supplies:

scissor s : t h read: n e e dle s:

Fabric scissors would be best here, All-purpose polyester thread works Every plush needs just a bit of hand
but even cheap craft scissors are fine for what we're making here. You sewing, so keep hand sewing needles
better than nothing. You might may already have this in a sewing in stock. The most common size is
already have a pair of these lying repair kit. If possible, try to stay away called "sharps" and work for most of
around. from threads that are very old, as they the techniques here. But a multi-size
can get weak over time and break. pack will help with more techniques
down the line.

fa b r i c : st u ff in g:
There are plenty of Polyester poly-fil stuffing
inexpensive options for is the most reliable option
fabric for beginners. for plush making. It's very
See page 8 for more easy to reuse if you can't
information on choosing buy new.
fabric.
upcycle options:
upcycle options:
• Unstuff old pillows
• Old sheets • Unstuff old stuffed
• Fleece blankets animals
• Old flannel pajamas

sew desu ne?

extra supplies:

pins : s eam r i ppe r : i ro n :

These are used to temporarily hold This tool is specially made to rip out An iron is especially helpful if you're
your fabric together as you sew it. If seams quickly and easily. If you can doing fusible web applique or
you don't have any, paperclips are a get a new one you'll thank yourself working with a fabric that wrinkles
good temporary solution. because they're much sharper. easily like cotton.

poin t t ur ne r : fabr i c m a r ke r : r u le r :
Something narrow and blunt works A disappearing marker is a huge help A ruler isn't needed as often in plush
best to turn points in plush shapes. when making notes and marks on making as with other projects like
A chopstick is an easy solution, but your fabric. A pencil or piece of chalk clothing. But it's helpful to have
if you can get hemostats those are is a good temporary solution, but around to measure seam allowance or
even better (see below). an air-soluble marker is very highly placement lines.
recommended.

upgrades:

s ewin g ma c hine : h e m o sta ts : m o re s c i sso rs:

You can sew plush projects by hand, This is a medical tool with a narrow If you can afford more scissors, a pair
but if you can get a machine it makes end that grips and locks. It works of fabric scissors will be a big help
the work much faster. This tutorial amazingly well for turning fabric as as they're much sharper. Meanwhile
will assume you don't have a sewing well as inserting stuffing into small embroidery scissors are great for
machine, but it will still include extra areas. getting into small, tight areas.
tips just in case you do.

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h an d s e wing
foundations

We haven't started sewing just yet, but before we get there we want to make sure you can at
least thread a needle! We'll get to the actual stitches as they come up in the project. This way
you'll have something to practice on and get the concept better. See the list below if you want
to skip ahead.

stitches: threading a needle:

□ Applique whip stitch
(pg. 22)
□ Blanket stitch
(pg. 23)
□ Running stitch
(pg. 23)
□ Back stitch (pg. 30)
□ Ladder stitch (pg. 34)
□ Gathering stitch (pg. 59) 1 2
□ Whip stitch (pg. 74) Pull a length of thread that’s about 2 Trim the thread at an angle.
times the length of your arm.

n ote :
Some prefer to leave the thread
folded over only part way so
you can adjust the length of the
thread as you sew.
You'll need to hold onto the
thread to make sure it doesn't slip
out of the eye.
Whatever method you choose is
3 4 completely up to you and what
makes you the most comfortable.
Insert the trimmed thread through the Bring the ends of the thread together,
eye of the needle. and pull at the needle so the thread is
now doubled over. Knot the end.

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leve l 1:
pillow-style plush
If you've never sewn anything before, most
teachers would recommend a very basic
project. Something like a pillowcase, flat tote
bag, or rectangle skirt. But if you've already
made something like that or just really only
want to make plush, this project is for you!
It's a very simple avocato or frog shape
with only 1 main pattern piece. You'll need to
learn a little about making faces, but the steps
will go over lots of options so you can make
something no matter what materials you
have at your disposal.

difficulty: materials & tools:

• ¼ yd. (or 9" x 15") of fabric for main plush
→ See the next page for help with choosing
fabric
makes:
• ⅛ yd. (or 5" x 5") of accent fabric for belly
One plush: about 6" tall, 5½" wide, and 2½"
long. • face materials:
→ see page 18 for help choosing
skills to learn: • Non-fabric options: buttons, safety
eyes, marker, or fabric paint
□ Choosing fabric • Fabric options: 3" x 3" of applique fabric
□ Minky sewing tips and 6" x 5" of fusible web adhesive
□ Cutting the fabric • Sewing thread to match main fabric and
□ Applique (and other face alternatives) applique fabrics
• Poly-fil stuffing
□ Clipping curves & corners • Basic sewing tools (see page 4): thread,
□ Ladder stitching openings needles, scissors. Also optional sewing
machine, iron, pins, point turner, fabric
marker, seam ripper, etc.

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c hoosing fa bri cs
Plush toys can be made from almost any fabric, but the stretch, thickness, and texture of
the fabric will greatly affect the final look. For the best results, use the fabric suggested by
the designer. For this project I recommend fleece or minky. But beginners might feel more
comfortable with felt or cotton. But this section will show what to expect no matter what
fabrics you try.

fe lt cotton j e r s ey f le e ce m i nky

felt:
Felt is made from pressed fibers that are formed
into a sheet. Because of this, the edges don't fray pros:
and unravel over time. • Polyester varieties are
inexpensive.
It's slightly stiff so it creates plush with hard • Makes great tiny details.
edges that keep their shape well. It really shines • Makes amazing
with in tiny details and sculptural plush. sculptural plush with
It doesn't look as natural with very round, hard edges.
squishable, or soft designs. For that reason I don't • Edges don't unravel.
usually recommend it for my patterns, but it will • Has no grain, can be cut
still work. For better results you can stuff it extra in any direction.
full to make the shapes rounder and less wrinkled.
co n s:
Polyester varieties are cheaper and great for • Wool varieties are
beginners. For an upgrade, check out 100% wool expensive.
varieties (or blends). These have a crisp texture • Creates hard edges that
that's easy to cut and survives wear and tear aren't as soft and round.
longer.

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cotton:
Cotton usually refers to quilting cotton or broadcloth. This is
a woven fabric, made by weaving together strands of cotton pro s:
threads (see below). • Usually inexpensive.
It usually has a high thread count, so it's durable. You can also find • Comes in a huge array
it in lots of colors and prints, so it's easy to see why it's popular. of colors and prints.
• Hard-wearing and
Because it's woven, it can fray easily at the edges. So your seams long lasting.
can get weaker if you trim the seam allowance (see pg. 31 for why • Easy to sew.
you'd want to trim your seam allowance). It also doesn't stretch, • Looks beautiful in flat
so the edges look crisp and hard like felt. But because it's thinner accent pieces.
than felt the finished result will show every little mistake.
co n s:
It really shines in flat accent pieces, like inner ears, wings, and • Crisp texture shows
applique (see pg. 24). So you can get the effect of the fun prints every mistake.
without compromising the shape of your plush. • Seams can fray if you
If you do use it in the main body of your plush, be sure to stuff it trim too much.
extra full to really fill in every edge, or else it might look wrinkly • Seams can look
(see pg. 33 for an example). wrinkly if you
understuff.

jersey:
Jersey is the kind of fabric used for t-shirts. It's known as a knit fabric, which
means the fibers are knitted like a sweater (just much smaller, see below). p ro s:
It also means that it naturally stretches. This is one of the harder fabrics to • Doesn't fray.
make plush from, for the reasons explained next. But it's shown here in case • Very squishy,
you want to make a plush from an old t-shirt or a similar fabric. plump results.

Interlock knit, french terry knit, and even some varieties of velour have co n s:
similar weight and stretch and produce similar results. These fabrics are also • Likely needs a
on the thin side and have a stretch of 30%-50%. (See more about stretch stretch needle.
percentages on the next page.) The resulting plush will look a little larger by • Can look lumpy
comparison and might lose some of its subtler shaping details. Mistakes are if not stuffed
also more likely to show and uneven stuffing will be very visible. evenly.
• Might lose
If you're using a machine, these fabrics will behave better if you have subtler details
a stretch needle (see page 12 for more on machine needles). A regular in the chubbier
universal needle will likely skip stitches when trying to sew through knit final shape.
fabrics.

wovens vs. knits:

Woven fabric is made by Knit fabric is made by
weaving together threads knitting threads together,
like a basket, only much like a sweater, only much
smaller. smaller.
This construction means This construction is a
that it doesn't naturally series of interlocking loops,
stretch (unless the threads which gives it a natural
have elastic in them). It stretch. It also means
also means that the fibers it doesn't fray as easily
fray easily because it's because it's one main
thousands of individual thread that constructs the
threads. textile.
sew desu ne?
| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2022 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
starter pack plush 10 free sewing tutorial

stretch percentage:
pull the fabric A fabric's stretch percentage is a quantifiable way of
without distorting measuring its stretch. You can calculate it by taking 10" of the
fabric and stretching it as far as it can go without distorting it.
Each extra inch equals 10% of stretch. For example, 10" of this
minky stretches to 13". Therefore it has 30% stretch.

Most of my plush are designed for fleece and minky, which

usually has 20%-30% stretch. So if you choose a fabric with
less, the result will look narrower than the example because
it hasn't stretched out to look full and round. If you choose a
fabric with more stretch, it will look fatter than the example.

fleece:
Fleece is a fabric with a knit base that has a fluffy texture built onto it. It
typically has 20%-40% stretch and is very affordable. It's usually used for p ro s:
warm weather clothing and blankets. That said, heavyweight varieties are • Soft, fluffy
available too but are better for very large plush. Heavyweight varieties tend texture.
to be more expensive and come in fewer colors too. • Easy to sew.
• Comes in many
Meanwhile medium to thin varieties work best for smaller plush so the colors and
project doesn't get too bulky with the detailed parts. This variety tends to prints.
come in more colors as well. • Very soft and
squishy.
Fleece can also be very beginner friendly because it's not too stretchy and • Affordable.
can often be sewn with a universal sewing machine needle. But if you get
skipped stitches you may need to switch to a stretch needle (see page 12). co n s:
The fuzzy texture means it likes to hold onto itself lightly so it won't move • May need a
around as much while you sew it. stretch needle.
• Can pill over
If you're brand new to sewing, you may want to start with felt or cotton, time.
then work up to fleece.

minky:
Minky is a fabric with a knit base that has a short furry texture
built onto it. It typically has 20%-30% stretch and tends pros:
to be more expensive. Varieties of minky are often used in • Very soft feel.
manufactured toys, so plush made with it look very professional. • Professional look.
• Lots of colors & textures.
The most well-known brand is Shannon Cuddle, which has a huge
selection of colors and textures. Other brands have also been co n s:
creating their own versions. They're typically less expensive but • Expensive.
also have less color range. • Shifts out of alignment;
difficult to sew.
Minky can be challenging to sew especially if you're used to the • Sheds fur when you cut
previous fabrics. But if you're not familiar with other fabrics, you it.
may actually be fine with how minky behaves.
It has a short fur that goes in one direction (called the nap). This
• Must cut pieces along
the nap.
fur can push the fabric out of alignment while you're sewing. The
fur also causes shedding, so you'll need to clean up as you go. See • Must be careful when
ironing.
the next page for more tips on working with minky.

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m i nky s e wing tip s

The texture and construction of minky creates some challenges while sewing. This is
especially noticeable if you're only used to sewing cotton and other more stable fabrics. Take
note of the tips below so you know what to expect when you try sewing with minky for the first
time. You'll see these tips come up again as we actually get to the project.

fabric nap:
Fur fabrics like minky have what's called a nap (or pile).
This is the direction of the fabric where the fur lies smooth
-- like petting an animal. Petting the fabric in one direction
will make the fibers lie flat and shiny, while the other
direction brings up the fur so it looks ruffled and darker.

For the best results when cutting your pattern pieces, make
sure the nap line goes in the same direction as your fur.

shedding:
Any fabric with a fur-like texture runs the risk of shedding when you
cut it. There are many ways to help keep the mess under control, so
use the one that works best for you. After you cut your pieces you can:

• Hold the pieces over a trash can and manually pull the fur off the
cut edges.
• Then shake the pieces vigorously over a trash can to get the rest
and until they no longer shed.
• Or run a lint roller (or piece of tape) over each cut edge.
• Also keep a handheld vacuum cleaner nearby when pieces leave a
mess.
• pro version: I personally put all the cut pieces into my clothing
dryer with no heat. Throw in a towel or two to shake the pieces
up, then all of the fur goes into the lint trap. I recommend this for
experts only because it will mix up your pieces and you'll have to
sort them again. There's also a chance to may lose 1-2 small pieces.
But it works very well if you sew a lot of plush like I do.

sew desu ne?

ironing:
Most minky is made from polyester which means it shouldn't be
ironed with anything hotter than a medium-low setting.

Many brands of minky warn that the fabric should not be ironed. This
is due to the iron crushing the fur and completely flattening the fluffy
texture. Also if it's ironed above a medium-low setting it could melt.

If you need to iron your minky for something like fusible web applique
(page 24), try to only use the tip of your iron on the appliqued pieces
and a press cloth to protect any scorching.

A spritz of water from a spray bottle also helps a lot, because steam
and moisture allow heat to travel more efficiently than through air
alone.

sewing:
The soft, furry texture of minky causes it to slip around while the pieces are
held together. If this gives you issues while you're sewing, consider the steps
below for an easier time.

• Use a lot more pins than usual to really hold the minky in place. Space
them as little as ½" apart and alternate them. Pin one from the top side
and another from the bottom. This will hold the minky securely as you're
sewing the seam.
• Use a walking foot. A walking foot is a type of presser foot installed into
your sewing machine. On its default setting, a sewing machine will push
the fabric through using small teeth beneath the presser foot called feed
dogs. A walking foot feeds the fabric from the top as well to help ensure
even stitching.
• Basting. Basting is a temporary stitch meant to hold pieces in place until
the permanent sewing is done. You can baste your minky pieces together
by hand where you have more control. Then sew them permanently by
machine. The basting stitches will hold everything in place as you go. You
can remove them later if they show on your finished project.

sewing machine needles: other types:

• If you're using a sewing machine, you may need a little primer • Other needle types
on sewing machine needles. The default that comes with don't usually come up in
a brand new machine is typically a universal needle. It's plush-making, but here's
intended to work well on most fabrics. However it's good to a quick rundown in case
keep in mind there are other options in case it doesn't work you're curious:
on your fabric. • Sharps/quilting: for
• Needles come in different types for different fabrics and quilting several layers
different sizes for strength.
• Jeans/denim: for making
• If a universal needle gives you skipped stitches on minky, try jeans or sewing denim fabric
using a ball point or stretch needle.
• If your needle bends, breaks, or just isn't strong enough for • Leather: for sewing leather
the layers you're sewing, try a larger needle. Needles range or vinyl
from 70/10 to 110/18 (the two numbers are US vs. European • Embroidery: for thick
size). Something in 80/12 to 90/14 can usually handle many or specialty embroidery
layers of minky. threads

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fab r ic a natomy

stretch

crosswise grain:
Goes perpendicular to the
selvage. In knit fabrics, this selvage:
is the direction of stretch. The machine finished
edge of the fabric.
Each piece has 2; one
nap

on each side

lengthwise grain:
Goes parallel to the selvage.
In fur fabrics, this is the
direction of the nap. 'right' side:
The ‘pretty’ side of the
fabric, with the fur or
print.
nap or pile:
In fur fabrics, the direction
the fur goes when brushed;
like petting an animal.
'wrong' side:
The ‘ugly’ side of the
fabric, with no fur or
width of fabric: design.
The distance between the
selvages. Commonly
45”, 54”, or 60”

cut edge:
The end cut off the bolt
(big roll) of fabric.

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patt er n a natom y

test square:
Measure this square
to ensure your printer
printed at the proper
scale.

applique markings:
Markings to help with face and
applique placement.

stitching line:
The dotted line indicates
the stitching line. You can
cut along this line if you stretch line:
prefer to make up your This line should go along
own seam allowance (see the stretch of your fabric
the next few pages for (if your fabric stretches).
this example).

cutting line:
Cut along this line to get
the pattern template with nap/grain line:
seam allowance included. This line should go along
the nap of your fabric
or along the lengthwise
grain.

label:
The name of the
pattern template,
how many pieces to placement lines:
cut, and what seam Markings to help with
allowance is included. placement of other pieces
or openings for turning.

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c ut t in g the fa br ic
Use your printed sewing templates to cut the pieces from your fabric. This can be done a
number of ways with slight variations. See the options below that work the best both for what
materials you have and also what makes you the most comfortable.

sewing using the seam allowance or seam line:

In a standard seam, the seam allowance is using seam allowance: using seam line:
the distance between the stitching and the
edge of the fabric. It must be consistent to If you cut the fabric using the If you trace the pattern seam line
ensure the stitching goes in the right place. included seam allowance, you'll onto the fabric, you can just focus
need to sew the pieces keeping on sewing the seam line and
Before you cut, this is your chance to decide the seam allowance consistent forget about keeping a consistent
whether you want to use the included seam according to the measurement on seam allowance.
allowance or only trace the seam line. the pattern. This works very well with flat
This works very well with 3D pieces detailed pieces like wings and
If you're not sure, I would recommend because you only have to match up claws. It gets more challenging
starting with the seam allowance method. the outer edge of the fabric. with 3D pieces because the seam
Then you can try the seam line method if Its weakness is in detailed pieces lines have to be lined up before
you want to go back. If you have a friend with tight corners and curves. You you sew. That process takes
helping you, they might have a preferred can see how to handle that on page a little more time. See how to
method too. 51. handle that on the next page.

using the seam allowance:

place line up pin in or trace
pattern on stretch & place the outline
wrong side nap lines
of fabric

1 2 3
Grab your fabric and place it on your Check that the stretch line is Secure your pattern template to the
work surface so the right side is matching the stretch of the fabric. fabric. If you have pins, weave them
facing down. Also check that the nap line is through both layers. You can also
Place your pattern template on top so matching the fur of the fabric (if your use small heavy objects as pattern
the right side is facing up. fabric has fur). If it doesn't, it should weights.
match the lengthwise grain. Alternatively, you can hold the pattern
Note: felt fabric has no grain, so you with your hand and use a fabric
can place the pieces however you like! marker to trace around the template.

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cut flip over clean up

around the for 2nd loose fuzz
pattern piece

4 5 6
Cut out the pattern piece around the If you need more than one of a piece, If you're using fuzzy fabric, remove
template. remove the template and place it the excess fluff using one of the
again. If your piece is asymmetrical, methods on page 11.
be sure to flip it over for the second
piece.

using the seam line:

trim trace cut
off seam seam line generally
allowance around
seam line

1 2 3
Begin by cutting off the seam Trace this seam line onto the Cut generally around the traced line,
allowance from the paper pattern wrong side of your fabric using a at least ¼" from the tracing.
template. disappearing fabric marker.

sew pin seam and poke

directly on line from through to
seam line one side the other

4 5 6
Later when you align this piece with When you're sewing 3D pieces, you Then bring it out through the seam
its partner (page 29), you only need have to be careful to match up the line on the other piece. This will
to sew along the seam line. No need to seam lines. It helps to stick your pins ensure they stay together while you
think about seam allowance. into the seam line on one side. sew them.

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cutting layout:
If you haven't already, print pages 83-85 for the sewing templates for the Level 1 project (see page 3
for help).
Use the illustration below as a visual checklist to help with cutting out all the pieces for your project.

frog body STRE TCH

¼ yd.; 9” long
belly

⅛ yd.; 4.5” long

A1 A1
frog:
NAP

6" wide

15" wide

front back
¼ yd.; 9” long

avocado pit
CATo:
o:

⅛ yd.; 4.5” long

avoCAT

A2 A2
NAP
avo

5" wide

8" wide 8" wide

before you begin:

• Briefly read the project instructions so you know what to expect.
• If desired, mark the cut fabric pieces with the markings and symbols from the pattern. Or wait until
the applicable step before transferring.
• The instructions assume you'll be using the included seam allowances, which are ¼".

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appl i qu e
and other face alternative s

Nearly every plush calls for a face of some kind, and there are many methods to do it! My
personal favorite is applique, which is the method of applying small pieces of fabric to your
larger main fabric as a decoration. It's what you'll find in all of my plush patterns.
However, that can be a hard technique for an absolute beginner. So this section will go over
some alternatives that you can try first. Then afterwards it will explain applique for when
you're ready to give it a go.

marker or fabric paint

Marker or fabric paint is a great
cut out face use to trace
non-sewing alternative for putting template from onto fabric
faces on your plush. This works best main pattern
on smooth fabrics like cotton. The
ink and paint will be less likely to get
lost in the fluff of fuzzier fabrics.
marker:
A permanent writing marker would
work well here if you have nothing 1 2
else. If you're able to find a permanent
fabric marker, that would be even Grab your paper template. Cut out the Align the paper template over your
better. It's formulated to bleed less face along the applique guidelines on fabric with both right sides facing
and last longer. the paper pattern. We'll be using this up. Trace around the lines inside
as a tracing template. the holes you've just cut using a
paint: disappearing marker.
Cheap acrylic paint would work well
here if that's all you have. Fabric paint fill in with or fill in
is an improvement because it absorbs marker with paint
into the fabric better and is less likely
to flake or peel over time. The dried
result will also be softer to the touch.
warning:
Be sure to do these techniques over
scrap paper to avoid a mess. Marker
and paint are very likely to bleed
3 4
through the fabric. For marker: use a permanent For paint: paint within the lines
marker to fill in the lines you've just you've just traced. You may need to
traced. go over the area a few times for full
coverage. Let dry completely.

sew desu ne?

buttons
add sew through
buttons to eyes of button
finished
plush

1 2
Buttons are a very simple and classic First off, finish your plush, both Sew the button to the plush through
way to make eyes for your plush. It's sewing and stuffing (page 27-35) the eyes several times for lots of
easier to add them after the plush Then mark where you would like strength. Tie off the thread several
is complete so you can ensure the the eyes to go with a disappearing times for a good hold, then trim the
placement is perfect. marker. thread.
You can take advantage of all the Grab your hand-sewing needle and
fun colors and shapes there are. The thread and double over the thread for
downside is they can be dangerous if extra strength.
they're removed by young children, Begin by starting a knot where you'd
which is why safety eyes exist as a like the button to be secured.
good alternative.

safety eyes
mark where you cut a very
would like the eyes small hole to
start

1 2
Safety eyes are a craft accessory First off, complete sewing your plush Make a small hole in the fabric where
made to resemble a round solid eye. but do not stuff it yet (page 27-32). you marked. This is a good job for
The "bead" half has the rounded eye Mark where you would like the eyes pointed embroidery scissors.
shape on the end, and the "washer" to be on your finished plush using a If your scissors aren't as small or
half attaches to the back. The nature disappearing marker. pointed, use them to carefully make a
of the construction ensures that it very small clip in the fabric.
cannot be easily removed, compared
to something like buttons.
Different colors and shapes are
available for other eye looks.

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insert eye use extra felt insert

into hole between eye washer onto
and plush back of eye

3 4 5
Insert the bead end of your safety eye For an extra detail, you can add a Use the opening for turning to flip the
into the hole you've made. It should circle of felt underneath the eye. plush toward the inside to expose the
be flush and even with the fabric of (Another non-fraying fabric, like back of the safety eye.
the plush. fleece, could also work). Push the washer onto the safety eye
This not only adds extra color, but so it's secure. It may need some extra
also makes the eye look bigger. force so prepare to get some leverage
Another bonus is it gives a strong on a table or another hard surface.
foundation if you're installing the You could also use pliers if you're
safety eye onto thinner fabrics like comfortable with them.
cotton.

push down remove

until fully extra post if
secured desired

6 7
When complete, the washer should be If preferred, you can cut off the excess
fully secured on the back of the eye post of the safety eye using wire
and not move. cutters or another strong cutting tool.
Again, this is only recommended if
you're comfortable using wire cutters.

sew desu ne?

applique
Applique is my personal favorite method of adding faces to plush. It's done by sewing small
pieces of fabric to your main project. This can be as simple as a few circles for eyes, or as
complex as multiple layers of base colors, shadows, highlights, and details.

The secret to easy applique is an adhesive called fusible web.

It's a sheet of adhesive that comes attached to paper. You
use it to apply to your applique fabric, then transfer it to your
main fabric. The paper makes it easy to handle and trace your
shapes onto it. If you're just starting out, you may not want
to buy any just yet. So up next is how you can try applique
without it.

no fusible web: trace face

pieces from
• design: Try to stick with templates
simple designs if you're
not using fusible web.
Something like basic
circles for eyes. It's harder
to layer the pieces when
you don't have fusible web
to hold the layers down.
1 2
• fabric: Felt works well Felt is recommended for starting out Cut out your applique templates
if you don't have fusible with applique. It has more structure from the paper pattern and use
than thinner fabrics so it will be easy them to trace onto your felt. Use a
web. It has a nice structure to hold and sew. It also cuts cleanly so disappearing marker around the
so it's easy to hold in your the edges look nicer. edges.
hand without the help of Cut out the pieces using your tracing
the fusible web adhesive. as a guide.

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hand sew
pin pieces or glue in place
in place lightly

3 4 5
Grab the front piece of your plush Or if you don't have pins, you could Thread a needle with matching thread
(A1 or A2). Align the felt pieces on it also use a small bit of glue. (pg. 6) and stitch the outer edge of the
where you'd like the eyes to be. You For best results, hand sew any items applique to your main fabric. Use one
can also use the guidelines on the that you've glued down. There's a of the 3 stitches shown on the next 2
paper for help. chance glue could gum up a sewing pages.
To hold them in place, you can use machine.
pins.

applique whip stitch:

• This stitch can be the
least noticeable option. If
you use a matching color
thread and keep your
stitches tiny, they're very
hard to see.
• So if you'd like an applique
method that doesn't draw 1 2
attention to itself, this is a
Bring the needle up at the beginning Bring the needle down just outside
good way to go. of your seam, about ⅛-¼” inside the the shape, going perpendicular to the
applique shape. edge.

3 4
Bring the needle up again, about ¼” Repeat steps 2 & 3 until the end of the
away from the first stitch and ⅛-¼” seam. You can also take two stitches
inside the applique shape. at once for a faster result.

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blanket stitch:
• This stitch has
more of an
old-world charm
to it and is highly
visible when
complete.
• It really pops
when you use 1 2 3
embroidery
Bring the needle up at the Pierce the tip of the needle Pierce the tip of the needle
floss rather than beginning of your seam, ¼” away and ⅛-¼” inside just outside the applique
regular sewing just outside the applique the applique shape. Do not shape, perpendicular to the
thread. shape. pull the needle through. edge.

4 5 6
Make sure your working Finally, pull the needle Repeat steps 2-5 for the
thread is going under the through. The working entire shape.
needle. thread should create a line
around the edge of the
applique.

running stitch:

1 2 3 4
Bring the needle up at the Bring the needle down Bring it up again about ¼” Repeat steps 2 & 3 until the
beginning of your seam. about ¼” away. away. end of the seam. You can
also take two stitches at
once for a faster result.

sew desu ne?

fusible web: heavyweight

lightweight fusible
• design: You can continue fusible
with basic designs, but
fusible web allows you
to do complex, detailed
designs. The glue holds
small pieces in place so
you can be sure they won't
shift while you're sewing
• fabric: If you're doing a • Fusible web adhesive is a sheet of adhesive with a paper backing.
Not to be confused with fusible interfacing, which is adhesive attached to a
design with a lot of layers,
fabric/fiber backing.
this is where thinner • Some common brands are Pellon & HeatnBond
fabrics like cotton and • In countries outside the US, it may also be known as bondaweb
flannel are helpful. You • It comes in light and heavy duty varieties. Lightweight strength is meant for
can layer multiple pieces applique you intend to sew later. Heavy duty versions are for a no-sew bond.
without creating a lot of If you try to sew them later your machine might have trouble penetrating the
glue.
bulk.

paper side trace

templates cut outside
onto paper of the traced
side lines

adhesive
side
1 2 3
Grab your fusible web adhesive. Take your fusible web and align it Cut generally around the shapes
Note that it has two sides. The rough over your applique templates so the you've just traced.
and bumpy side has the adhesive paper side is facing up.
web. The smooth side has the paper. Take a pencil and trace the designs
you need onto the paper side.

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align over fabric

adhesive side down fuse to cut out
fabric along
traced
lines

4 5 6
Take your fusible web pieces and Grab your iron and press it according Wait for the pieces to cool.
align them onto the fabric you're to the manufacturer's directions. It's Cut out the pieces along the lines
using. usually medium heat for about 5 you've traced.
Place it with the adhesive side facing seconds per area. Continue until all
down on the wrong side of your the pieces are fused.
fabrics.

pull away
align template
peel template while holding
away over main applique
paper fabric
backing

7 8 9
Remove the paper backing from each Grab your main project fabric (in this Hold the applique piece in place with
of the pieces you've cut. This should case, the front piece, A1 or A2). one hand while carefully pulling away
leave the adhesive behind on the back Align your paper pattern template on the template with the other.
of the fabric. top so both right sides are facing up. Keep the applique fabric in the same
Align your first applique piece on top spot and this will align it on the fabric.
within the applique guideline.

fuse applique use a press cloth

to main fabric for insurance

repeat with
smaller pieces next
10 11 12
Grab your iron once again and fuse You can also use a scrap piece of Repeat this process with your other
the applique to your main fabric. cotton as a press cloth. This will help applique pieces.
If you're using a furry or delicate protect the fabric while you're ironing. If your plush has layers within the
fabric, try to use only the tip of your eyes, work from the largest piece up
iron on the applique pieces. to the smallest.

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needle needle
should land should swing
right outside into middle of
shape shape

sew in place as
desired

13 14 15
You can now sew the pieces in place When using a zigzag stitch for When the needle swings to the left,
however you prefer. Refer to pages applique, set your machine to a make sure it's inside the applique
22-23 for some hand sewing options. medium width. piece.
If working by machine, a zigzag stitch When the needle swings to the Repeat this with all of your applique
will secure the fabric and prevent the right, make sure the needle is on the pieces using matching thread.
edges from fraying in the future. outside edge of the applique piece.
See the next steps for help with that.

cut out leaves just a ring

middle of fusible web
of traced
shape

1 2
For larger pieces, like animal spots, Trace the cat's avocado pit or the When complete, you should have a
stripes, or other markings, you may frog's belly outlines onto fusible web ring of paper instead of one big shape.
want the piece to blend into the as usual. However this time, cut out
project. For that, it's better to use the the middle, about ⅜" inside the traced
same fabric as your project. line.
Up next is a tip you can use for these
larger pieces.

fuse to peel
away sew to
fabric as project as
usual paper
backing usual

3 4 5
Fuse this to the back of your accent Cut out the accent fabric and remove You can now fuse the fabric to your
fabric. the fusible web paper. project and there will only be glue
around the outer edge. This will help
prevent the glue from distorting the
shape of your project.
Sew the frog belly or avocado pit to
your plush front (A1 or A2) using
one of the previous sewing methods.
sew desu ne?
| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2022 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
starter pack plush 27 free sewing tutorial

asse mbly
We're finally assembling the body of the plush! But first, a quick primer on how it's going to
happen.

an overview: any plush is just a

pouch of stuffing!
• The basic construction of any plush is
essentially a pouch of fabric with stuffing
inside.
• As the shape gets more complex, the pouch
just has more bits added onto it in different
ways. But at the end of the day it's still just
a pouch of stuffing. So don't let it intimidate
you

basic seams: basic fabric

edges are
• The basic seam for any stitching
seam:
on the
inside
sewing project is two
pieces of fabric, right sides
facing, sewn together close
to one edge. edge of
• The area between the fabric
stitching and the edge
of the fabric is called the A basic seam is two pieces of fabric
seam allowance. held right sides together. Then the seam
• This is done so when the stitching is sewn close to the edges.
If the fabric is freshly cut, this cut
makes
a clean
fabric is flipped right side edge is called a raw edge. With line
out, the right side only certain fabrics, the raw edge will
has a small line where the fray and ravel over time. The goal is
seam was made. to hide these raw edges within your

•
project.
Seams can be made in The distance between the edge
different ways depending and the stitching is called the seam
on different desired results allowance. When the sewing is finished, the
or for strength. But this fabric pieces are now joined at the
seam. The raw edges are inside the
is the most common for project and on the outside is a clean,
plush making. neat line.

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place fabric with

right sides together opening for
turning:
• The opening for turning
is left so you can turn
the plush right side out
after sewing.
• It's best to have this area
transfer on the straightest edge
opening lines of the shape and in the
least noticeable area.
1. align the front & back • You'll see later when
sewing the plush closed
a. Grab both of your plush front and back pieces (A1 or A2). Align (page 33) that it's easier
them together with right sides facing and the raw edges aligning. to ladder stitch a straight
b. Note the opening for turning markings on the paper pattern for edge closed than a
the front/back. This indicates where you'll leave an opening in curved edge.
your plush so you can turn it right side out.
Transfer the markings to the wrong side of your fabric using a
fabric marker.

weave pins or use lots

place pins at more for minky
into fabric major curves

2. pin the pieces

a. If you have sewing pins, use them now to hold your layers together.
Weave each pin once through the two layers of fabric.
b. It helps to place pins at the top, bottom, and sides as well as any strange curves or corners that need
extra help staying together.
c. If you have trouble with your minky sliding around, you may want to use a lot more pins. For best
results, add pins at the major points, then continue to add ones in between so the fabric lines up
evenly.

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a. If you're using a sewing

machine, take the fabric seam
to your machine now. If
you're sewing by hand, use
allowance:
the stitching guide on the • If you make sure your
next page. seam allowance is the
recommended width and
measure b. If you're using the included stays consistent, then your
from needle to seam allowance, make sure plush will finish at the size
edge of fabric
your needle is ¼" away intended.
from the edge of the fabric.
Use a ruler to measure the • A smaller seam allowance
distance if you need to. will make the plush larger.
• And a larger seam
3. prepare your seam allowance allowance will cause the
plush to look smaller and
skinnier.

note:
• If you're sewing with a
machine, be sure to back
stitch at the beginning
and end of your seam.
• This is a feature on
lift presser almost every machine
foot and that will sew in reverse.
pivot
leave open • This locks the beginning
for turning and end of your seam
4. sew the body and keeps it from
unraveling.
a. If using a machine, set it to a straight stitch and a medium stitch
length.
Sew around the outside of your plush using the regular ¼" seam
allowance. Be sure to pivot at the corners.
To pivot, stop with your needle at the corner of the shape and
keep the needle down. Then lift up your presser foot and turn the
fabric.
Lower the presser foot and continue sewing as usual.
b. Sew around the entire plush shape except for the opening for
turning at the bottom.

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back stitch:
• The hand-sewing
version of a back
stitch is different
from the machine
version (see the
previous page).
• This hand
stitch is a good 1 2 3
replacement for
Bring the needle down Bring it up about ¼” away. Bring it back down again,
a typical straight at the beginning of your going backwards, just
stitch on a seam. beside where you did the
machine. first stitch.

4 5 6
Bring the needle back up Bring the needle back Repeat steps 4 & 5 for each
again, going forwards, down again, going stitch until the end. You
about ½” away. backwards, just beside can also take two stitches
your previous stitch. at once for a faster result.

a. When your seam is complete,

clip the seam allowance clip inner trim or clip
corners outer curves
at the inner corners of the
shape.
b. Repeat with the curves as
well.
See the next page for an
explanation of what this
technique is and why it helps.

5. clip the corners

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clipping corners & curves

Clipping corners and curves is an important step to be aware of in plush making because so
many curves are involved. It has to do with how seam allowances in fabric react when flipped
right side out.

cut small notches 1) notched outer

out of curves curve 2) flips inside with
trim outer corners
less bulk

o uter cor ner s & c ur ve s :

Sewn pieces with outer corners and curves have extra fabric in their seam allowance along the outside. So when they're
flipped to the inside, they're squished inside a smaller area and create a lot of extra bulk.
You can eliminate this bulk in corners by trimming off the corner of the fabric.
In curved pieces, you can trim away the entire piece to ⅛". But for fabrics like cotton, this will weaken your seam. Weakening
your seam could cause it to rip later when you stuff it. So for fabrics that fray you'll want to cut small notches out of the
fabric to reduce bulk.

clip inner
curves

1) clipped 2) flips
inner inside and
clip very curve spreads
close to apart
corner

i nn er cor ne r s & c ur ves:

Sewn pieces with inner corners and curves have less fabric in their seam allowance along the outside. So when they're
flipped to the inside, that small bit of seam allowance has to stretch to make it across a larger area.
To help allow the fabric to spread, you need to make clips into the seam allowance. For especially tight curves and corners,
get as close as you can to the stitching without cutting it.
You can also trim away the entire piece to ⅛". But for fabrics like cotton, this will weaken your seam.

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open up opening push inside of plush push out edges

through opening using a blunt tool

6. turn right side out

a. Open up the opening for turning at the bottom of your plush.
b. Push the body of the plush through the opening so the right side of the fabric starts to come out.
Continue pulling to completely turn the plush right side out.
c. If you have a blunt tool, like a chopstick or hemostats, use it to push out the edges of the plush from
the inside. This will help define the shape.

a. Grab your stuffing. If your

pull apart stuffing stuff small
stuffing is bunched up to fluff it areas first
or especially if it's used
stuffing, make it easier to
use by fluffing it with your
fingers. Pull it apart so there
are no hard clumps and it
feels light and airy.
b. Take one small bit of stuffing
at a time and fill up your
plush. Start in the smaller
areas like the eyes for the
frog here. Fill them up until 7. prep the stuffing
the fabric is nice and round
and there are no wrinkles in
the fabric.

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cotton can get

very wrinkly

wrinkles can be fixed add more

with more stuffing stuffing to
smooth out
wrinkles
8. stuff the body
a. Continue stuffing the body. You'll find if you don't have
enough stuffing the seams will look wrinkled like in the
first photo.
note:
• Stuffing will compress and
b. Fabrics that don't stretch, like cotton and felt, have this shrink the more you hug your
problem even more. plush. So it's usually better to
c. The solution is to continue stuffing until the area is firm overstuff than understuff your
and the wrinkles go away. plush.

bring needle out

through one edge of continue stuffing
opening ladder as opening gets
stitch closed smaller

9. close up the opening

→ Next we're going to ladder stitch the plush closed. For a more detailed explanation of a
ladder stitch, see the next page.
a. Thread a hand sewing needle and knot the end. Bring the needle through one edge of the opening
from the inside out. This will leave the knot inside the plush.
b. Tuck the seam allowances from the opening inside and sew it closed with a ladder stitch. Take a 1/8”
stitch into the fold of one side of the opening, then go across and take another.
c. Continue pushing stuffing into the plush as you go. This will help prevent the bottom from looking
deflated.

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ladder stitch:
• A ladder stitch is
also called a slip
stitch, invisible
stitch, or hidden
stitch.
• It's used for
sewing from
the outside of a 1 2 3
project invisibly,
Make sure the seam Bring the needle up from Weave the needle into
which means allowances in your project the inside edge of the the fold of one side of the
that there's are folded under. We’ll need opening. Pull the thread opening, taking a ¼” long
no machine to stitch into those folds through, and the knot will stitch.
later. be left inside the plush.
replacement for it.
• Here it's used
to close up an
opening in a
plush, but you
can also use it to
attach pieces. See
page 46 for how
that's done.
4 5 6
Go directly across to the Repeat steps 3 & 4 along Pull at the thread after
other side and take another the opening. each stitch to close up the
stitch. opening.

7 8 9
Take a stitch into the Insert the needle near the Pull the thread through.
threads from your project. knot and bring it out 1-2” Pull at the thread while
Loop the thread around the away. cutting close to the plush.
needle to create a knot. The thread will sink back
inside, completely hidden.

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finish ladder
stitching bring needle pull at
out 1"-2" away thread while
clipping

10. trim the threads

a. Ladder stitch the rest of the plush closed, following the instructions from the previous page.
b. Tie a knot at the end of the seam, then bring the needle out about 1-2" away from the knot.
c. Pull at the thread while cutting close to the plush. Once cut, the thread should sink back inside the
plush.

you
did it!

congrats!
You've completed
Level 1! Give yourself
a big hand and see if
you're ready for
Level 2!

sew desu ne?

leve l 2 :
3D pillow plush
As a step up from the last pattern, this plush difficulty:
still has the simple round body shape but is
made more 3D with the inclusion of several
darts. This one has a lot so you're sure to get
a bunch of practice!
Meanwhile separate ears are now included makes:
so you'll learn how to incorporate those into One plush: about 5½" tall, 5" wide, and 4"
your seams. And finally you'll get some more long.
practice with the ladder stitch showing how
to attach pieces from the outside. There are
templates to make a simple pig or a cute pug. new skills to learn:
□ Darts
□ Basting
□ Sewing extras into seams
□ Ladder stitching separate pieces together
PIG:
ears are sewn into
PUG: ears are folded
the seams over & ladder
stitched in place

muzzle is
attached by
hand with a
ladder stitch

has several darts no arms or legs yet! those come in level 3

all over body (or you can borrow the pieces from level 3)

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materials & tools:

• ¼ yd. (or 9" x 19") of fabric for main plush
→ See page 8 for help with choosing fabric
• for pug: ⅛ yd. (or 5" x 5") of accent fabric for ears and muzzle
• applique materials:
• 3" x 3" of white applique fabric for eye whites and eye shines
• 3" x 3" of black or dark accent applique fabric for eyes and nose/nostrils
• for pig: 2" x 2" of complementing applique fabric for snout
• 4" x 4" of fusible web adhesive
• Sewing thread to match main fabric and applique fabrics
• Poly-fil stuffing
• Basic sewing tools (see page 4): thread, needles, scissors. Also optional sewing machine, iron,
pins, point turner, fabric marker, seam ripper, etc.

cutting layout:
If you haven't already, print pages 86-87 for the sewing templates for the Level 2 project (see page 3
for help).
Use the illustration below as a visual checklist to help with cutting out all the pieces for your project.

pig body STRE TCH

¼ yd.; 9” long
B3
B3
pig:

B1 B2 B2
NAP

B3
19" wide

pug body ST RETC H

¼ yd.; 9” long

STRE TCH
ears
⅛ yd.; 4.5” long

B4 B4 B4 B4 B5
pug:

B1 B2 B2
NA P

NA P

B5
14" wide

17" wide

sew desu ne?

before you begin:

a. Grab your front piece (B1).

Follow the instructions starting on page 18 to decide
on a face for your plush. You can use a non-sewing
method or use applique.
b. If appliqueing, add the face pieces one layer at a time
following the guidelines on the paper pattern.
applique face
onto front piece

1. applique the face

dart dart darts:

• Darts are a v-shaped why have darts?
wedge sewn into a pattern
piece that create a 3D • You can think of darts like a
shape in the fabric. partial seam. One that only
goes part-way through the
• The two lines of the darts fabric.
are sometimes called the
dart legs. These lead up to the • If you were to replace a
dart point. dart with a full seam in
dart some places, it might get in
• There are also the way of the face or other
double-ended darts that areas you'd like to look
have a diamond or almond clean and smooth.
First up is sewing the darts. shape with the points at
Begin by locating them on your each end. • Darts can also be more
front piece (B1). These are the efficient. You can sew
small triangular wedges found several darts into one
in the fabric. pattern piece rather than
splitting it up into multiple
pieces.

sew desu ne?

a. One way to help sew the

darts accurately is to transfer
trim away
the seam lines from the seam allowance
paper pattern. If you've trace seam line
already done this (via the onto fabric
technique on page 16), you're
good to go!
If not, you can get the same
effect by trimming away
the seam allowance from
the paper pattern along the
edge of the dart. Here, we're
starting with the center
bottom dart. 2. transfer the darts
b. Align the pattern template
onto the wrong side of your
fabric. Then trace along the
cut edge with a fabric marker
to transfer the seam line.

fold
along
point of line check from
dart up seam both sides
lines

3. align the dart sides

a. Align the sides of the dart on your front piece (B1) by folding it along the point with right sides of
the fabric facing each other.
b. Line up the seam lines you've traced in the previous step.
c. Check from both sides to be sure the seam lines of the dart match up.

sew desu ne?

sew pro technique:

along
traced line • For the best results with
darts, try to make your
stitching blend into the
fold.
• You can make the
stitching even more
blended by curving your
seam slightly into the
view from fold.
the front
4. sew the dart
a. Sew the dart on your front piece (B1) by starting at the opening and going down to the point.
Follow the seam line you've traced.
b. When complete, it should look something like the second photo from the front.

fold 5 darts total

along point
of dart

5. sew the remaining darts

a. Repeat steps 3 and 4 with your remaining darts on the front piece (B1).
b. Sew all 5 darts. There should be 3 along the bottom and two along the top.
c. When complete, the front piece should be looking very round.

sew desu ne?

transfer ear
placement lines

leave open
for turning
6. sew the ears
a. Grab your ear pieces (B3 or B4). Take two of them and align them with right sides facing and raw
edges matching up.
b. Sew the ears together along the long curved edge. Leave the straight edge free. When complete, use
that free edge to turn the ears right side out.
c. Transfer the ear placement lines from the paper pattern for the front (B1). Mark along the edge of
your front piece using a fabric marker.

line up ears within baste ears to

flip downward top of front
placement lines & line up edges

7. baste the ears

a. Grab your front piece (B1) from before as well as your two
finished ears (B3 or B4). Align them along the top of your basting:
front piece so the edges are within the placement lines • Basting is a temporary
you've just marked. They should be pointing up as shown in seam meant to hold pieces
the first photo. in place. A long stitch length
b. Now flip the ears down so they're pointing toward the is often used in case the
middle of the face. The open edges of the ear should align alignment was wrong and
with the raw edges of the front piece while also staying you need to redo it.
inside the markings you made. • The finished result is not
Pin the ears to the front piece along these edges. meant to be seen and
c. Baste the ears to the front piece. Try to sew within the seam sometimes is even removed
allowance so your stitching doesn't show on the finished later (depending on what the
plush. designer calls for).

sew desu ne?

leave
line open for
up back turning
pieces

8. sew the back pieces

a. Grab your back pieces (B2). Align them with right sides facing and raw edges matching up.
b. If you haven't already, note the opening for turning markings found on the paper pattern for the
back. Transfer them over to the wrong side of the fabric.
Sew the back pieces along this edge only, but leave the opening for turning that you marked.
c. Open up the pieces when complete.

line up back line up center

with front top points

line up center
bottom points
9. align the back to the front
a. Grab your front piece from before (B1) and also your sewn back pieces (B2).
Since these are both 3D shapes, they're not going to line up as nicely as the flat shapes from Level 1.
We're going to use alignment points to help out.
b. Take your back piece along the top of the seam and align it with the center top of the front piece. The
center top is also marked on the paper pattern in case you want to transfer the marking. Pin these
layers together.
c. Grab the seam along the bottom of the back piece and line it up with the bottom center dart on the
front. Pin these layers together.
Start pinning the rest of the edges of the plush together until you've worked all the way around.

sew desu ne?

sew
make sure ears around
are secured inside entire
shape

flip right
side out
10. sew the back to the front
a. Before you sew, double
check to be sure the
ears are tucked
tip:
securely inside the • Sewing through the layers of the ear and body can be difficult
plush. for some sewing machines.
b. Sew all the way around • If yours has trouble, you may want to try using a stronger
the plush, removing the needle.
pins as you go. • Also try loosening the top thread tension of your machine by
c. Turn the plush right 1-2 numbers. Check your machine manual for how to find the
side out through the top thread tension.
opening in the back. • In both cases, it never hurts to just go very slowly. You can
make progress by turning just the hand wheel (the spinning
wheel to the right of the machine). It's slow but it's safe.

a. Stuff the plush, following stuff firmly

the steps from Level 1 (page ladder
32-33). stitch
closed
→ After you stuff, if you
found your earlier
darts turned out a
little pointy, see the
dart troubleshooting
section on the next
page.
b. Ladder stitch the plush
closed, following the steps
from Level 1 (page 33-35). 11.
stuff and sew closed
→ If you are making a pig, congratulations! You're done!
If you are making a pug, continue with the next step.

sew desu ne?

dart troubleshooting:

a. After you've stuffed your

plush, you may discover fill in with
check
that your darts turned out for pointy more stuffing
a little pointy. This is not an darts
unusual problem, especially
when using fabrics with less
stretch.
b. A solution that works most
of the time is more stuffing.
This will force the fabric to
spread more and really fill
in all the areas around the
pointy dart. a. b.

push in fabric pull at thread

so it's smooth to bring fabric
ladder stitch on together
both sides of dart

c. d. e.
c. If that doesn't work, ladder stitching can also fix the problem.
Begin by pushing in the fabric how you'd like it so it looks less pointy.
d. Then start ladder stitching on each side of the dart where you pushed it in. Work all the way up to
the point of the dart.
e. When you pull at your stitching, it should help even out the point. You can continue with small
stitches until the surface looks how you want it.

sew desu ne?

applique nose sew around

onto muzzle entire muzzle

12. sew the muzzle

a. Grab your muzzle piece (B5). Use the instructions from Level 1 (page 18) and the applique
templates to add a nose to the piece.
b. Grab your second muzzle piece and align it over the first with right sides facing and raw edges
matching up.
c. Sew the two layers together all the way around the piece. We're not going to leave an opening for
turning, but rather make a new opening up next.

cut through turn right

back layer only side out

stuff lightly

13. turn & stuff the muzzle

a. To turn the muzzle (B5) right side out, make a small cut in the
back fabric only. This is the fabric without the nose attached.
The paper pattern has a cutting guide to help with both size and
note:
placement of the cut for the best results. • This method for turning
a piece works well for
b. Turn the muzzle right side out through the opening you cut. anything where you
c. Stuff the muzzle lightly with stuffing. Hemostats are very helpful won't see the back.
for this small piece. But a tool like a chopstick also works.

sew desu ne?

attaching pieces with a ladder stitch:

draw stitching align stitching

guide on back draw guides
stitching
guide on
face

14. align the muzzle

a. To align the muzzle (B5) onto the front of your plush, start by drawing a stitching guide. Follow the
guideline from the paper pattern to draw a circle around the cut you made in the previous step.
b. Draw a similar circle on the front of your plush using the stitching guide from the front (B1) paper
pattern.
c. Match up the muzzle with the plush using the stitching guides you've drawn.

sew into
stitching ladder stitch move & adjust
guides muzzle to face as needed

15. attach the muzzle

a. Use a ladder stitch to attach the muzzle to the plush. It's similar to the process from Level 1 on page
34. But this time you'll take one stitch into the stitching guide on the muzzle, then take the next
stitch into the stitching guide on the plush.
For best results, use long basting stitches for the first time around the guideline. That way you can
check the placement and make changes easily.
b. Continue sewing the muzzle to the plush going entirely around the stitching guides.
c. Take a look at your plush from all angles and check that you like the placement of the muzzle. If it's
twisted or crooked, you can remove the muzzle and try again. Or if it only needs a little tweak, you
can nudge it one direction or another. The basting stitches should give you some wiggle room.
Then sew around the muzzle a second time using tinier, neater stitches to secure the muzzle in
place.

sew desu ne?

a. For the ears to fold down,

you can iron them or secure fold down ears
them with more stitching.
Begin by folding the ears
down how you like.
b. Inside the crease of the
fabric you've made, ladder
stitch across the inside of the
ladder
folded ear through the inner stitch into
fabrics only. Repeat with the fold of ears
other ear for two total.

16. secure the ears

congrats!
You've completed Level 2!
Give yourself a big hand!
Take a well-deserved
break and see if you're
ready for Level 3!

sew desu ne?

le ve l 3 :
flat-bottom plush
In yet another increase from the last pattern, difficulty:
this plush keeps the simple round body but
adds some more shaping. Now the bottom is
flat to teach some curved sewing skills. The
curved sewing also brings up working with
notches and alignment points. makes:
There are also proper arms, feet, and tails One plush: about 5½" tall, 5" wide, and 4"
for the new pair. To attach them, you'll be long.
introduced to gathering and the gathering
stitch. With these new techniques, you can
make a sweet penguin or rabbit. new skills to learn:
□ Curved sewing
□ Matching notches and points
rabbit: □ Gathering; gathering stitch

penguin:
arms
attached
with ladder beak is closed up
stitch with gathering
stitch

legs sewn
into bottom
seams flat bottom

sew desu ne?

materials & tools:

• ¼ yd. of fabric for main plush
→ See page 8 for help with choosing fabric
• ⅛ yd. (or 5" x 8") of accent fabrics for penguin belly, feet, and beak or rabbit inner ears
• applique materials:
• for penguin: 2" x 2" of white applique fabric for eye shines
• 3" x 3" of black or dark accent applique fabric for eyes and mouth
• optional 3" x 3" of pink applique fabric for blush and nose
• 4" x 4" of fusible web applique
• Sewing thread to match main fabric and applique fabrics
• Poly-fil stuffing
• Basic sewing tools (see page 4): thread, needles, scissors. Also optional sewing machine, iron,
pins, point turner, fabric marker, seam ripper, etc.

cutting layout: notches:

If you haven't already, print pages 88-90 for the sewing • In most sewing patterns, look
templates for the Level 3 project (see page 3 for help). out for notches. These are
Use the illustration below as a visual checklist to help with small triangular markings,
cutting out all the pieces for your project. usually placed along the edge of
a pattern piece.
penguin body ST RETC H
• They provide a little extra quick
C11 guidance to ensure your pattern
C8 C8
C3
¼ yd.; 9” long

pieces are lining up as intended.

• To mark them, you can use a
C8 fabric marker, make a small
C1
NAP

C2 C2 snip into the fabric, or cut a

little triangle coming out of the
C8 fabric. Use whatever method is
most comfortable for you.
19" wide

beak & feet belly

⅛ yd.; 4.5” long

C9 C9 C10
⅛ yd.; 4.5” long

C11
NAP

NAP

C9 C9 C10
8" wide 7" wide

sew desu ne?

before you begin:

a. Grab your front piece (C1).

Follow the instructions starting on page 18 to decide
on a face for your plush. You can use a non-sewing
applique method or use applique.
face onto
front piece b. If using applique, apply the face pieces one layer at a
time following the guidelines on the paper pattern.
c. Use the tips for appliqueing large pieces for the
penguin belly (page 26).

1. applique the face

3 darts total
fold
along
point of blend
dart stitching
into fold

2. sew the darts

a. Sew the darts found throughout your front piece (C1). See the guides from page 38-40 for help
with sewing them.
Start by folding your fabric along the point of the dart with right sides facing.
b. Sew from the opening of the dart into the fold of the fabric.
c. Repeat for three darts total. Once is in the center bottom, and the other two are along the top.

sew desu ne?

trace seam line

from paper pattern

trim
away seam
allowance

3. trace the feet seam lines

a. Grab your feet pieces (C5 or C9). Take two of them and align them with right sides facing and raw
edges matching up.
b. for the penguin feet (C9), the tiny toes get very detailed. To sew them accurately, it helps to trace
the seam line from the paper pattern.
Start by trimming away the seam allowance from the paper pattern along the toes.
c. Place this trimmed paper pattern on the wrong side of your foot fabrics. Then use a fabric marker to
trace along the seam line.

penguin (C9): rabbit (C5):

pro-tip:
leave open • If the sharp inner corners
for turning leave
open for give you trouble, like the
turning ones found in the penguin
feet, try sewing one extra
stitch across the corner.
• This creates a shape that's
sew along not a sharp point but
traced line instead has a slight blunt
end.
4. sew the feet • This should make clipping
into these corners much
a. For the penguin feet (C9): Sew along the traced line, the easier and turn cleaner.
edge with the toes. Leave the straight edge free for turning the
piece right side out later.
b. For the bunny feet (C5): Sew along the longer rounded edge.
But still leave the straight edge free.

sew desu ne?

penguin (C9): rabbit (C5):

trim seam
allowance at corners two feet
total

two feet
total

5. turn the feet

a. Trim the excess seam allowance in the tight corners and curves of the feet pieces (C5 of C9). For
the inner corners, trim right up to your stitching without actually cutting the thread.
b. Turn the feet right side out through the opening you left before. Define the shapes with a chopstick
or similar turning tool.

stuff
lightly

align along baste

to edge
6. baste the feet
bottom of body

a. Stuff the feet lightly with stuffing.

b. Grab your front piece from before (C1). If you haven't already, locate the feet placement lines found
on the paper pattern for the front. Transfer them over to the right side of the fabric.
Align the open end of the feet within these lines so the raw edges match up.
c. Flip the feet toward the center of the plush and baste them in place along the raw edge.
→ For a penguin, skip ahead to step 9. For a rabbit, continue ahead for the ears in step 7.

sew desu ne?

align inner ear

with outer ear

leave
open for
turning

two ears
total

7. sew the ears

a. Grab all of your ear pieces (C4). If you're using a contrasting inner ear, align the inner ear piece with
the outer ear piece.
b. Sew the two ear pieces together along the long curved edge. Leave the straight edge open for
turning the ear right side out.
c. Repeat with your other ear pieces and turn them both right side out.

a. Grab both of your ears (C4) flip downward

as well as your front piece and baste
from before (C1). align
ears within
If you haven't already, locate placement
the ear placement lines on lines
the paper pattern for the
front. Transfer them over to
the right side of the fabric.
Align the ears within these
placement lines so the raw
edges match up and the
inner ear fabric is facing up.
b. Now flip the ears downward 8. baste the ears
so the inner ear fabric is
facing down and the raw
edges are still matching up.
Baste the ears to the front
piece within the seam
allowance.

sew desu ne?

leave
open for
turning

9. sew the back

a. Grab your back pieces (C2). Align them with right sides facing and raw edges matching up.
b. If you haven't already, note the opening for turning markings found on the paper pattern for the
back. Transfer them over to the wrong side of the fabric.
Sew the back pieces along this edge only, but leave the opening for turning that you marked.
c. Open up the pieces when complete.
→ For a penguin, continue below with step 10 for the tail. For a rabbit, skip ahead to step 12
for attaching the back piece.

align accent
fabric with
main fabric leave
open for
turning

10. sew the penguin tail

a. Grab your penguin tail pieces (C11). Align one from your accent fabric and main fabric together with
right sides facing and raw edges matching up.
b. Sew the tail pieces together along the curved edge. Leave the straight edge free for turning the tail.
c. Turn the tail right side out through the opening.

sew desu ne?

a. Grab your sewn tail (C11)

as well as your back pieces center over
(C2). If you haven't already, back seam
locate the tail placement
lines found on the paper
pattern for the back. Transfer
them over to the right side of
the fabric.
Align the tail within these
placement lines so the
accent fabric is facing up and
the raw edges align. accent side is
facing up
b. Baste the tail to the edge of 11. baste the penguin tail
the back pieces within the
seam allowance.

a. Grab your front piece from

before (C1) as well as your line up center front
with back seam
back piece so far (C2). We're
going to align the back to the
front similar to the Level 2
project (page 42).

Take your back piece along

the top of the seam and align
it with the center front. The
center front has a placement leave
notch to help you align it. open for
bottom
Continue aligning the pieces
along each side, going down
12. sew the back to the front
to the bottom corners. b. Sew the back of the plush to the front all around the sides and
top. At the bottom, leave the pieces open for attaching the
Pin the fabrics together. bottom piece next (C3).
Note that for a rabbit, the
ears (C5) will be sandwiched
inside.

sew desu ne?

transfer markings line up top of

from template plush with bottom
markings

open up
bottom of plush

13. align the top to the bottom

a. Open up the opening you left in the bottom of your plush so far. We're going to be attaching this
opening around the bottom piece (C3). We're going to use the front dart, side seams, and back
seam for alignment help.
b. Grab your bottom piece. Use the paper template to transfer the side, back, and front alignment
markings onto the right side of your fabric.
c. Align the top of the plush to the bottom piece with right sides facing. In the next step, we'll go over
this one part at a time.

line up notch
with front dart line up side seams
with circles

sew around
bottom piece
14. sew the bottom
a. First, line up the center notch from the bottom piece (C5) with the center dart on the front piece
(C1). Pin the fabrics together.
b. Next, line up the side seams with the open circle markings on each side of the bottom piece. You
may need to bend and stretch your fabric to make it fit.
If it gives you trouble, see the next page for some help and also more information on this technique.
Line up the back seam (C2) with the closed circle marking on the bottom piece. Pin the fabrics
together.
c. Sew the bottom to the plush all the way around the piece.

sew desu ne?

sewing curved pieces:

Sewing curved pieces, like straight edges to outer/inner curves, or opposing curves, can
require a little bit of extra thought. This is for the same reasons touched on in clipping
corners and curves (page 31). It has to do with how seam allowances behave when flipped.

inner curves: outer curves: seam line

seam line is 9.6"
is 9.6"

seam line is longer fabric

than fabric edge edge is seam line is shorter
8.8" fabric
than fabric edge edge is 11"

s eam lin e s vs . fa b r ic e dg e s :
Two pattern pieces with different curved shapes might share the same measurement along the seam line. But the curved
shapes will cause the outer edge of the fabric to be a different measurement. Take for example the penguin body and
bottom. The seam line around the body is about 9.6" all the way around the opening. But the actual outer edge of the
fabric is more like 8.8". It has a slight inner curve so the fabric edge is shorter, though just by a little.
Meanwhile the bottom piece (C5) is also 9.6" along the seam line. But because it's an outer curve, the actual outer edge of
the fabric is 11" around. So if you try to get the pieces to line up around the outer edge, the fabric will fight you because the
outer edges are over 2" apart in length -- even if the seam lines are the same
If you have stretchy fabric, you can just stretch the fabric to make up the difference. (Remember minky has about
20%-30% stretch, see page 10.) But if you're using non-stretchy fabric like cotton or felt, it will be a lot harder. Also if the
curves are very different the difference in length will be much bigger. Below are some tricks you can try to get past this.

clips:
fabric can now
spread better

fabric edge will

stretch to be closer to
seam line length
make clips sew using piece
into seam with shorter fabric
allowance edge on top

clippin g e d g es to m a ke u p fo r le n gt h :
Just like on page 31 where we clipped the corners and curves, this time we're going to clip the fabric before we sew instead
of afterward. If you make small clips into the seam allowance, you can spread apart the fabric. Then you can treat the fabric
like it has a longer edge length. It will be closer to the original seam line length and it won't fight you as you line up your
pieces.
For best results, I like to make sure the fabric that has the shorter fabric edge length is on top when you're sewing the
pieces (especially on a machine). This edge will need the most stretching, so it's better to have it in a place where you can
hold and manipulate it. So if you're aligning a straight edge with a circle, the straight edge should be on top so you can bend
and stretch it as you pin or sew.

sew desu ne?

stuff ladder
firmly stitch
closed

15. stuff & sew closed

a. Turn the plush right side out through the opening in the back (C2).
b. Stuff the plush, following the steps from Level 1 (page 32-33).
c. Ladder stitch the plush closed, following the steps from Level 1 (page 33-35).
→ For a penguin, continue below to step 16. For a rabbit, skip ahead to step 21.

leave
open for
turning

16. sew the penguin beak

a. Grab your beak pieces (C10). Align them with right sides facing and the raw edges matching up.
b. Sew the pieces together along the curved edge. Leave the straight edge free for turning the piece
right side out.
c. Turn the beak right side out through the opening you left.

sew desu ne?

gathering
stuff
lightly sew gathering stitch:
stitch around edge
• A gathering stitch is
a long stitch made by
weaving the needle in
and out along the length
of fabric. The stitches
should be about ⅜-½"
long.
• Because of the long
17. stuff the beak length, it makes it easy
to pull at the thread,
a. Stuff the beak (C10) lightly with stuffing. which bunches up the
fabric (called gathering).
b. Grab a hand sewing needle and thread. Sew a gathering stitch
around the raw edge of the beak, about ¼" in from the edge.

pull at thread sew knots into

to cinch closed center to secure

beak now has

a flatter bottom

18. cinch the beak closed

a. Pull at the gathering thread and this should close up the
opening of the beak (C10). note:
b. Sew a few knots into the middle of the cinched beak to • Closing up open shapes using
help hold it shut. this gathering method is great
c. When complete, the cinched end of the beak should be for pieces that have a round
nice and flat with the raw edges all tucked in. This will bottom and don't require a lot
make it much easier to attach to the face of the penguin. of accuracy.

sew desu ne?

a. For help with alignment,

draw
draw a stitching line around draw stitching stitching guide
the cinched end of the beak guide onto beak onto penguin
(C10). It should be around the
outer edge, right before the
fabric starts to turn upward.
b. Repeat drawing the stitching
guide on the face of your
penguin.

19. align the beak

a. Grab your beak (C10) and

align it on the face of your align beak
onto penguin
penguin. Make sure that
the seam line on the beak is
going horizontally.
b. Ladder stitch the beak to the
penguin using the guide from
Level 2 on page 46.

ladder stitch
pieces together

20. attach the beak

sew desu ne?

leave open two wings

for turning total

21. sew the wings/arms

a. Grab your wing/arm pieces (C6 or C8). Take two of them and align them with right sides facing and
the raw edges matching up.
b. Sew the wing/arm pieces together along the longer curved edge. Leave the straight edge free for
turning the piece right side out.
c. Turn the piece right side out. Repeat with your remaining wing/arm pieces so you have two total.

tuck seam align onto

allowances penguin belly
inside

stuff
lightly with
stuffing

22. stuff the wings/arms

a. Stuff the wings/arms (C6 or C8) lightly with stuffing. Keep it very light near the opening to make
the next part easier.
b. Turn under the seam allowance (¼") of the wing/arm inside the piece.
c. Transfer the stitching guides for the wings/arms onto the front of your plush so far. Align the folded
opening of the wings/arms onto the stitching guides you've drawn.

sew desu ne?

ladder
stitch to
body

sew more of wing

sew to belly to make it
underside point down
23. attach the wings/arms of wing too

a. Ladder stitch the wings/arms (C6 or C8) to the stitching guides on the plush using the same
process as explained on page 46 in Level 2. Sew around the top half of the wing/arm.
b. Continue sewing around the underside of the arm in the same manner. This should create wings/
arms that stick straight out.
c. This is also where you can start to use the ladder stitch to your advantage. If you ladder stitch more
of the underside of the wing/arm to the belly, it will cause the wing/arm to point downward instead
of outward.
You can move the arms in different directions in this manner to create different poses or
expressions.
→ If you are making a penguin, congratulations, you're done! If you're making a rabbit, move
ahead to the next step for the tail (C7).

sew gathering
stitch around tail pull at thread
to cinch up tail

note:
• Gathering up a circle is
a quick way of making
a sphere. It's not the
prettiest, but it's fast and
it gets the job done.
24. gather the rabbit tail
a. Grab your tail piece (C7). Also grab a hand sewing needle and thread. Sew a gathering stitch
around the outside edge of the tail piece, about ¼" in from the edge.
b. Pull at the thread to gather the tail, and you'll see it starts to make a cup shape. Stop when you get to
this point.

sew desu ne?

stuff tail while it's

halfway gathered pull at thread sew knots into the
to close up tail center to secure
entirely

25. stuff the rabbit tail

a. While the tail (C7) makes a cup shape, fill it up with stuffing.
b. Continue pulling at the gathering thread on the tail until it makes a full sphere with the fabric fully
cinched up on top.
c. Sew a few knots into the cinched fabric to hold it shut.

align tail
onto back
of rabbit ladder
stitch tail
to rabbit

check that it's

even with bottom
26. attach the rabbit tail
a. Align the tail (C7) with the back of your rabbit. The cinched end should be facing the back end of
the rabbit, just above the bottom seam (C3).
For extra help, you can also draw the stitching guides onto the tail and the back of the rabbit in the
same size.
b. Ladder stitch the tail to the rabbit using the guide form Level 2 on page 46.
c. For best results, try to keep the tail level with the bottom of the plush. This gives it extra insurance to
keep it sitting upright.

sew desu ne?

le ve l 4:
sitting plush
This project retreads similar techniques but difficulty:
they're a little harder, so the curved sewing,
ladder stitching, and darts get a bit trickier. It
still has the same round body, but the legs are
part of the bottom corners rather than sewn
on separately. makes:
This pair has your choice of a unicorn or One plush: about 5½" tall, 5" wide, and 4"
dragon, so there are many more pieces to long.
contend with, including wings, horns, tails,
and bangs. So you'll find the overall time
needed is a little longer too. new skills to learn:
□ Curved sewing
□ Whip stitch
□ Matching notches & numbered points
□ Needle sculpting
needle
unicorn: sculpted
horn dragon: horns attached
with ladder
stitch

wings attached
with ladder
stitch

muzzle
attached
with ladder
stitch

legs are part

of main body

arms attached
with ladder
stitch

sew desu ne?

materials & tools:

• 1/3 yd. of fabric for main plush
→ See page 8 for help with choosing fabric
• ⅛ yd. of two accent fabrics for horns, inner ears, muzzle, or bangs & tail
• applique materials:
• 3" x 3" of accent applique fabric for eyes
• 2" x 2" of white applique fabric for eye shines
• 2" x 2" of black or dark accent applique fabric eyelids & nostrils
• 4" x 4" of fusible web applique
• Sewing thread to match main fabric and applique fabrics
• Poly-fil stuffing
• Basic sewing tools (see page 4): thread, needles, scissors. Also optional sewing machine, iron,
pins, point turner, fabric marker, seam ripper, etc.

cutting layout:
If you haven't already, print pages 90-93 for the sewing templates for the Level 4 project (see page 3
for help).
Use the illustration below as a visual checklist to help with cutting out all the pieces for your project.

unicorn:
wings & inner ears

⅛ yd.; 4.5” long

main body ST RETC H
D7 D9 D6 D4
1/3 yd.; 12” long

D11 D11 D11 D11

NAP

D4
D1 D3 D3
19" wide
NAP

bangs & tail

⅛ yd.; 4.5” long

D5
D2 D2
D4 D4 D10 D10 D8 D8
D5 D5 D5
NAP

18" wide
15" wide

sew desu ne?

before you begin:

a. Grab your front piece (D1).

Follow the instructions starting on page 18 to decide
on a face for your plush. You can use a non-sewing
method or use applique.
b. If using applique, apply the face pieces one layer at a
time following the guidelines on the paper pattern.

applique face
onto front piece

1. applique the face

transfer
numbered line up
transfer markings
numbered numbered
markings markings
1

1
1 1
1
2
2 2 2
2

2. align the inner legs

a. Grab your body front (D1) and inner leg pieces (D2). These pieces join together using numbered
points to help ensure they're aligned just right and not confused with any other marking. Begin by
marking the points onto the right side of your fabric.
b. Repeat with your inner leg piece.
c. Align the inner leg with the body front. Match up points 1 and 2 as you've transferred them. Sew the
inner leg to the body front along the inner curve from points 1 to 2.

sew desu ne?

line up
inner curves
sew along
inner curves
repeat for
1 both legs
2
1 1
2

2 2

3. attach the inner legs

a. Match up the inner curves on both the inner leg (D2) and front (D1). Match up points 1 and 2 as
well.
b. Sew the inner leg to the body front along the inner curve from points 1 to 2.
c. Repeat with the other inner leg piece so both are joined.

blend
fold along stitching
point of dart into fold

3 darts total

4. sew the darts

a. Sew the darts found throughout your front piece (D1). See the guides from page 38-40 for help
with sewing them.
Start by folding your fabric along the point of the dart with right sides facing.
b. Sew from the opening of the dart into the fold of the fabric.
c. Repeat for three darts total. One is in the center bottom, and the other two are along the top.

sew desu ne?

5. sew the ears

align inner
with outer ear

leave fold with

open for inner ear
a. b. turning
c. d. fabrics facing

a. Grab your ear pieces (D4). Take one from inner ear fabric and one from your main fabric. Align them
so right sides are facing and the raw edges match up.
b. Sew the ear pieces together along the upper curved edge. Leave the straight edges along the bottom
open for turning the ear.
c. Turn the ear right side out through the opening along the bottom.
d. Fold the ear so the inner ear fabrics are facing each other. Use the fold line shown on the paper
pattern as a guide for where to fold. When complete, the open edges along the bottom should be
even with each other.

folds point inner ears

toward middle facing downward

baste along
bottom edge

6. baste the ears

a. Sew a basting stitch along the bottom open edge of the ears (D4) to hold the folds in place.
b. Grab your front piece (D1) from before.
If you haven't already, locate the ear placement lines on the paper pattern for the front. Transfer
them over to the right side of the fabric.
Align the ears within these placement lines so the raw edges match up and the inner ear fabric is
facing up. The folds from the previous step should also be pointing toward the middle.
c. Flip the ears downward so now the inner ear fabric is facing down and the raw edges are still
matching up.
Baste the ears to the front piece within the seam allowance.
→ If you're making a dragon, skip ahead to step 9. For a unicorn, continue next for the bangs
(D8).

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leave open
for turning

trim
seam
allowance
at corners

7. sew the bangs

a. Grab your unicorn bangs (D8). Align the two pieces with right sides facing and raw edges matching
up.
b. Sew the pieces together along the two curvy edges. Leave the straight edge open for turning the
piece later.
c. Trim the excess seam allowance at the tight corners and curves to reduce bulk and increase
flexibility when the piece is turned.

baste
match up between ears
notches

turn
right
side out

8. baste the bangs

a. Turn the bangs (D8) right side out and define the point with a chopstick or similar blunt tool.
b. If you haven't already, locate the bangs placement lines on the paper pattern for the front (D1).
Transfer them over to the right side of the fabric.
Align the bangs within these placement lines so the raw edges match up and the notch along the
top lines up. This will help ensure the bangs are pointing in the right direction.
c. Flip the bangs downward so now it's pointing toward the center of the plush and the raw edges are
still matching up.
Baste the bangs to the front piece within the seam allowance.

sew desu ne?

repeat for both

fold along back pieces
point of dart

blend
stitching
into fold
9. sew the back dart
a. Grab your back piece (D3). Sew the dart found in the bottom corner. See the guides from page
38-40 for help with sewing them.
Start by folding your fabric along the point of the dart with right sides facing.
b. Sew from the opening of the dart into the fold of the fabric.
c. Repeat for both of your back pieces.

open up
leave pieces
line open for
up back turning
pieces

10. sew the back pieces

a. Take your back (D2) pieces so far and align them with right sides facing and raw edges matching up.
b. If you haven't already, note the opening for turning markings found on the paper pattern for the
back. Transfer them over to the wrong side of the fabric.
Sew the back pieces along this edge only, but leave the opening for turning that you marked.
c. Open up the pieces when complete.

sew desu ne?

center
align front top notch center
to back top notch

match up legs:
1 points 1 & 2 points
at leg 1&2
2 1 1
1
2
2 2

bottom
11. align the front to the back dart

a. Grab both of your front and back pieces so far. Align them with right sides facing. Before you pin,
note that there are certain crucial points that should match up. We'll go over them in more detail in
the next few steps.
b. Pin the front to the back, matching up the center top notch with the back seam.
At the body, points 1 and 2 from the inner legs, body front, and body back should also align.
The center bottom dart on the body front will also match the back seam.
c. Pin the front to the back and the aligned points should look something like the third photo.

center
top notch

1
2

2 2

sew sew
around leg between
legs

12. sew the front to the back

a. Begin by sewing the top of the body. Sew along the top, matching up the back seam with the center
top notch.
There is a lot of bulk in this area so be careful and sew slowly.
b. Next, sew down the side of the body pieces. Stop at point 1, where the leg starts, and pivot. Sew
around the leg, ending at point 2 where the leg stops.
c. Next, sew between the legs. Start by pivoting at point 2. The dart in the middle should align with the
back seam. Sew across to the point 2 on the other leg.
Lastly, finish up the other side by repeating the previous parts. Sew from point 2 to 1, then up the
side, ending at the top of the body. This should take you back to where you started.

sew desu ne?

a. Finish the body by clipping

the seam allowances at the turn right
side out
corners, particularly at points
1 and 2.
b. Turn the body right side out
through the opening in the
back (D2).
clip seam
allowance at
corners

13. turn the body

stuff rest
of body
ladder
stitch
closed

stuff legs
firmly

14. stuff the body

a. Begin by stuffing the legs with stuffing. Fill the legs really tightly, as they like to deflate and force the
stuffing out.
b. Fill up the rest of the body, and sneak extra bits of stuffing into the legs if necessary. Keep filling the
body until it's firm.
c. Ladder stitch the plush closed, following the steps from Level 1 (page 33-35).

sew desu ne?

fold along
applique point of dart
nostrils

blend
stitching
into fold

15. sew the muzzle darts

a. Grab your muzzle piece (D6). Use the instructions from Level 1 (page 18) and the applique
templates to add nostrils to the piece.
b. This piece also has several darts. See the guides from page 38-40 for help with sewing them.
Start by folding your fabric along the point of the dart with right sides facing.
c. Sew from the opening of the dart into the fold of the fabric.

a. Repeat sewing darts around

the muzzle for four darts repeat for
4 darts
total.
b. When complete, it should
look something like the
second photo when viewed
from the right side.

16. finish the muzzle darts

sew desu ne?

line up notches sew around cut through

& circle entire muzzle back layer only

17. sew the muzzle

a. Grab your muzzle back piece (D7). Both the muzzle front and back have several markings to
help with alignment. Match up the notch markings on the top of both pieces as well as the circle
markings along the bottom.
b. Sew the muzzle to the muzzle back all the way around.
c. To turn the muzzle right side out, cut a small slit into the center of the muzzle back. Be sure to cut
through the back layer of fabric only.

turn right stuff whip

side out semi-firmly stitch
closed

18. stuff & close the muzzle

a. Turn the muzzle (D6/7) right side
out through the opening you cut. whip stitch:
b. Stuff the muzzle semi-firmly with • A regular whip stitch
stuffing. has the same idea as
c. If desired, whip stitch the opening the applique whip
closed. This will help keep stuffing stitch (page 22) but
out of your way while you attach the with two edges of
muzzle to the face. fabric.
• The needle is brought
straight through the
two layers of fabric and
the thread is allowed
to wrap around the raw
edges.

sew desu ne?

align the muzzle ladder stitch into

with stitching guide muzzle seam

sew all around

muzzle
19. attach the muzzle
a. Align the muzzle (D6) onto the face of your plush using the guide from Level 2, page 46.
Transfer the stitching guide onto the face of your plush, then use that to align the muzzle onto the
guide. The entire base (D7) of the muzzle should fit within the guide.
b. Ladder stitch the muzzle to the face by sewing through the muzzle seam and onto the stitching
guide on the face. Sew the first time with larger basting stitches.
c. If you like the placement, sew around the muzzle again with tinier, neater stitches to secure it.

leave two arms

open for total
turning

20. sew the arms

a. Grab your arm pieces (D5). Take two of them and align them with right sides facing and the raw
edges matching up.
b. Sew the arm pieces together along the longer curved edge. Leave the straight edge free for turning
the piece right side out.
c. Turn the piece right side out. Repeat with your remaining arm pieces so you have two total.

sew desu ne?

a. Stuff the arms (D5) lightly

with stuffing. Keep it very turn seam
stuff
light near the opening to lightly allowance
make the next part easier. toward inside

b. Turn under the seam

allowance (¼") of the arm
inside the piece.

21. stuff the arms

a. Transfer the stitching guides

align arm with
for the arms (D5) onto the stitching guides
front of your plush so far. ladder
Align the folded opening of stitch
the arms onto the stitching arm to
guides you've drawn. body

b. Ladder stitch the arms to

the stitching guides on the
plush using the same process
as explained on page 46 in
Level 2.

22. attach the arms

If you sew around both sides of the arm evenly, this should create arms that stick straight out.
If you ladder stitch more of the underside of the arm to the belly, it will cause the arm to point
downward instead of outward. You can move the arms in different directions in this manner to
create different poses or expressions.

sew desu ne?

unicorn horn (D9): dragon horn (D12):

fold horn
lengthwise

leave open leave open

for turning for turning

23. sew the horn(s)

a. Grab your horn piece(s) (D9 or D12). Fold the piece in half lengthwise with right sides together so it
makes an even skinnier triangle.
b. Sew the piece together along the straight edge. Leave the short curved edge at the bottom free for
turning the piece right side out.

sew gathering stitch

around opening

stuff
lightly

24. stuff the horns

a. Turn the horn (D9 or D12) right side out and define the point with a chopstick or similar turning tool.
b. Stuff the horn lightly with stuffing. Be sure to use a chopstick or hemostats to get a small bit of
stuffing into the tip.
c. Sew a gathering stitch around the opening of the horn. See page 59 from Level 3 for more help on a
gathering stitch.

sew desu ne?

pull at thread wrap thread secure

to cinch closed around horn thread at
the top

25. cinch the horns closed

a. Pull at the gathering thread to cinch up the
opening of the horn (D9 or D12). needle sculpting:
b. If desired, you can create a spiral in your • This is a very basic version, but this horn
unicorn horn with the extra thread. spiral is an example of a technique called
Wrap the thread around the base of the horn needle sculpting.
going up to the top in a spiral. Pull at it tightly
so it sinks into the fabric. • It's the technique of using thread to
shape the plush from the outside to pull
c. Tie off the thread at the top of the horn to in and contour areas.
secure it.
• It's also often used to make paws.

unicorn horn (D9): dragon horn (D12):

draw stitching
guide on bottom align horns
beside ears
align
horn onto
forehead

26. align the horns

a. Just like the beak from Level 3, we're going to draw a stitching line around the base of the horn
(D9 or D12).
Draw a stitching line on your plush as well, and use it to align the pieces.
b. For a unicorn: the horn is aligned on the forehead, inside the curve of the bangs (D8).
c. For the dragon: the horns are on top of the head, right beside the ears (D4).

sew desu ne?

unicorn horn (D9): dragon horn (D12):

stitch the bangs
ladder stitch to the horn
around base ladder stitch
around base

27. attach the horns

a. Ladder stitch the base of the horn to your plush either:
On the forehead, for the unicorn.
b. Or beside the ears, for the dragon.
c. For the unicorn bangs (D8), you'll want to ladder stitch the bangs to the horn a little bit just to hold it
in place. Otherwise the bangs might not lie down flat.

unicorn tail (D10): dragon tail (D13):

leave open
leave open for turning
for turning

28. sew the tail

a. Grab your tail pieces (D10 or D13). Align them with right sides facing and raw edges matching up.
b. Sew them together along the long curved and pointed edges. Leave the straight edge free for turning
the piece right side out later.

sew desu ne?

trim seam allowance

at corners stuff
turn right semi-firmly
side out

29. turn the tail

a. Clip the excess seam allowance at the tips of the tail (D10 or D13) to reduce bulk.
b. Turn the tail right side out through the opening you left.
c. Stuff the tail semi-firmly with stuffing. Use just enough so it takes shape.

a. Cinch up the tail (D10 or

D13) using the steps for the align onto
horn (step 24-25). back of plush ladder stitch
Align the cinched end of the around base
tail on the back of your plush,
just above the back dart.
Use the same method as for
attaching the horn. Draw a
stitching line on both the tail
and the plush, then align the
drawn lines.
b. Ladder stitch the base of the
tail to the back of the plush 30. attach the tail
all the way around.

sew desu ne?

trace seam
line from sew all
paper pattern around shape

31. sew the wings

a. Grab your wing pieces (D11 or D14). Take two of them and align them with right sides facing and raw
edges matching up.
b. The seam line of the unicorn wing may get a little detailed, so it helps to trace the seam line from the
paper pattern. Trim away the seam allowance from the template, then use it to trace the seam line
onto the wrong side of the fabric.
See Level 3, page 51 for more details on this technique.
c. Sew the wing pieces together along the traced line, all the way around the shape.

trim seam
allowance at cut through
corners back layer of
wing only mirrored pair
of wings

32. turn the wings

a. Trim the excess seam allowance at the tight inner corners and curves of the wings.
b. To turn the piece, cut a small slit into the back of the wing only. There's a cutting guide on the paper
pattern for more help with placement.
c. Turn the wing right side out, and repeat for the other wing so you have a pair. Be sure to cut the
opposite side for the other wing so the pair of wings are mirrored.

sew desu ne?

align stitching
stuff lightly guides ladder stitch
wing to back

33. attach the wings

a. Stuff the wings lightly with stuffing, just enough so they puff up.
b. Draw stitching guides on your wings and on your plush using the guidelines from the paper pattern.
Align the wings to your plush using the stitching guides. Make sure the tips of the wings are
pointing outward.
c. Attach the wings to your plush using the same ladder stitch technique from Level 2, page 46. Sew
around the stitching guides you marked earlier.

congrats!
You've completed Level 4!
You should be super proud!

I hope you learned a lot and now

feel comfortable tackling some new
and different patterns! I tried to
teach everything I could, but at the
end of the day, plush-making is still
an art form. Projects will always be
unique to your circumstances. So
they might not go as you expect.
Your strongest tool is an open mind
and willingness to go with the flow
and find new solutions no matter
how your project is coming along.
Each plush you make will not
only get your hands used to the
techniques, but also give you more
confidence for the next one! You got
this! Happy sewing!

sew desu ne?

TEST SQUARE
2” LEVEL 1
measure this square to
be sure you’ve printed
pg. 1-3
at the proper
proportions

NAP
STRE
TCH

Start
er Pa
c
w w wP A T T k Plus
.c h o
l
E R
N
h
y
knig
avo c
ht.co
FRO ato m
Cut 1 NT/B
Cut 1 from ligh ACK (
from t gre A1)
¼” se dark gre en fabric
am a e
llowa n fabric
nce

open
ing fo
r turn
ing
pg. 2/11

STRETCH

Starter Pack Plush NAP

P A T T E R N
www.cholyknight.com
frog
FRONT/BACK (A2)
Cut 2 from main fabric
¼” seam allowance

opening for turning

pg. 3/11

AVOCATO PIT
applique
trace & cut 1 in
brown

FROG BELLY
applique
trace & cut 1
in white

CAT EYES
applique
trace & cut 1 each in
white

FROG EYE
applique
trace & cut 2
in black
CAT PUPILS EYE SHINE
applique applique
trace & cut 1 each in trace & cut 2
black in white MOUTH
applique
trace & cut 1 in black
pg. 4/11

LEVEL 2
M pu
UZ g
Cu (B ZL
ac t 5
ce 2 f ) E

pg. 4-5
n r
t f om
ab

m
ric zz

u
le
pla
ce m e nt

center top ¼
all ” s
ow ea
an m

NA
ce

P
t

ea
en

r
em

pla
ac

ce
rt
pl

m
da
r
ea

en
t
STRETCH

Starter Pack Plush

NAP

P A T T E R N
www.cholyknight.com
FRONT (B1)
Cut 1 from main fabric
dart
dart
¼” seam allowance
dart
pg. 5/11

g ) ric
pi (B3in fab ce

Cut 4 from accent fabric

P
NAP

¼” seam allowance
NA
A R malowan

EAR (B4)
E rom al
f m
t 4 sea

pug
u
C ¼”

cente
r top
opening for turning
NAP

SNOUT
applique
trace & cut 1 of pink
NOSTRIL
applique
trace & cut 2
of black

STRETCH

Starter Pac
k Plush EYES
applique PUPILS
P A T T
w w w.cho E R N trace & cut applique
lyknight.c 2 of white trace & cut
om
BACK (B2) 2 of black
Cut 2 from
ma
¼” seam all in fabric
owance

NOSE EYE SHINE

applique applique
trace & cut 1 trace & cut 2
of black in white
pg. 6/11
LEVEL 3

WING (C8)
Cut 4 from main
penguin

allowance
pg. 6-8

¼” seam
fabric
allowance
bunny ¼” seam
FOOT (C5)
fabric
Cut 4 from main
Cut 4 from main fabric

Cut 2 from accent fabric

ARM (C6)
¼” seam allowance

¼” seam allowance

BEAK (C10)
bunny

penguin
NAP

NAP

ent ear p
la cem lacem
ear p ent
rt

rt
da

da
nt

e
b ea k p la c e m

w
in
NAP

t
en

g
pl
em

ac
ac

em
pl

en
g

t
in

Starter Pack Plush

P A T T E R N
www.cholyknight.com
FRONT (C1)
Cut 1 from main fabric
¼” seam allowance

STRETCH
dart

ent
foot placem foot placement
s
eam
ides
s

STRETCH
g in

bunny
NAP

TAIL (C7)

¼” seam allowance
¼” seam allowance

BOTTOM (C3)
Cut 1 from main fabric
Cut 1 from main fabric

center
for turn

cente
rb
fron
t

ack
NAP
opening

ms
de sea
si

STRETCH

bunny Starter Pack Plush

EAR (B4) P A T T E R N
Cut 4 from www.cholyknight.com
main fabric

BELLY
¼” seam BACK (C2)
in white

applique
PENGUIN
allowance Cut 2 from main fabric
trace & cut 1
¼” seam allowance
ta
ent
(C7 il
rabbit
placem)

NAP
tail (
C 11) pla
ceme
nt
pg. 7/11
pg. 8/11
EYE SHINE
applique
penguin trace & cut 2
BLUSH
TAIL (C11) applique

NAP
in white trace & cut 2
Cut 1 from main fabric
Cut 1 from accent fabric in pink
¼” seam allowance

EYE
applique
trace & cut 2
in black

penguin CLOSED EYES

FOOT (C9) applique
Cut 4 from accent fabric trace & cut 1
¼” seam allowance RABBIT MUZZLE each in black
applique
trace & cut 1 in black

LEVEL 4 EYELID
applique
trace & cut 1
pg. 8-11 each in black

EYE
applique
trace & cut 1
uide

each in dark
cutting g

accent color
de

p la ui
ce m e nt g

unicorn
NAP

WINGS (D11)
Cut 4 from accent fabric
¼” seam allowance

NOSTRIL
applique EYE SHINE
trace & cut 2 applique
of black trace & cut 2
in white
pg. 9/11

2
1
MUZZLE
BACK (D7) ARM (D5)
Cut 1 from accent Cut 4 from main
fabric
INNER LEG (D2) ¼” seam allowance
fabric
¼” seam
Cut 2 from main fabric
¼” seam allowance allowance

cement
center
bangs pla top
t

ea
en

rp
m

rt
ce

lac
da

da
pla

em
r

en
ea

t
NAP
nt
me
muzzle place
arm
ent
cem

pla
pla

cem
arm

ent

Starter Pack Plush STRETCH

P A T T E R N
www.cholyknight.com
FRONT (D1)
Cut 1 from main fabric
1 ¼” seam allowance 1
dart

2 2
pg. 10/11

NAP
MUZZLE
(D6)
Cut 1 from accent
fabric
¼” seam allowance

g in
STRETCH

for turn
dragon

opening
TAIL (D13)
Cut 2 from main fabric
¼” seam allowance

NAP

nt
e
w in m
g p la ce
NAP

Starter Pack Plush

P A T T E R N
www.cholyknight.com
BACK (D3) t

ai
Cut 2 from main fabric
¼” seam allowance lp
la ce m e nt

dar
t

2
pg. 11/11

unicorn
TAIL (D10)
Cut 2 from accent fabric
ide
¼” seam allowance gu
ng
tti
cu

id e
gu
p l a c e m e nt

Wut 4 f seam
STRETCH

dr GS ma owa
C ¼”

IN rom all
ag (Din fa nce
on 14 bric
)
NAP

NA
P

Cut 2 from accent fabric

Cut 2 from main fabric

¼” seam allowance

NAP
dragon EAR (D4)
HORNS (D12)
fold line
Cut 2 from accent fabric
¼” seam allowance
NAP

ce ric
Cu ¼” s

an fab
un N c(cent fance
HO
t 1 eam

w
lo t
)
fro

ico D9 abri

al cen D8
R

NAP
m allo

am a S ( n
c
r ) c
a

e m
”s o r
¼ 2 fr NG co
w

t i
Cu BA un NA
P

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