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ON BAKING
A TEXTBOOK OF BAKING AND PASTRY FUNDAMENTALS
text as well so that students understand how different techniques and flavor profiles developed.
Chapters focus on four areas essential to a well-rounded baking and pastry professional:
➊ Professionalism Background chapters introduce students to the field with material on
culinary and baking history, food safety, tools and ingredients.
➋ Breads Four chapters focus on breadmaking, from basic quickbreads to yeast breads and
advanced artisan specialties such as sourdough breads and laminated doughs.
➌ Desserts and Pastries Fundamental baking techniques used in the preparation of
cookies, pies, cakes, custards and frozen desserts are explained and then demonstrated with a
wide range of recipes. Healthy baking concludes this section.
➍ Advanced Pastry Work Chapters on tortes and modern entremets, petits fours, plated
desserts, chocolate and sugar work demonstrate advanced concepts and techniques.
UPDATES
▶ More than 230 new photographs and illustrations provide clear representations of core
preparations that are the foundation of any good baking textbook.
▶ Over 40 new recipes reflect up to the minute trends in bakeries and foodservice.
▶ New step-by-step photographs emphasize stages in making key products such as
flaky biscuits, pie crust and meringue.
▶ New photographs that show contemporary plate presentation styles to help stu-
dents in their mastery of plating and presentation.
▶ Coverage of the construction of tiered specialty cakes has been expanded to include
new photographs of celebration cakes from professional cake decorators.
▶ Content updates reflect current trends in the world of baking and pastry, such as the
interest in food science, ingredient function and specialty cake production.
▶ Expanded coverage of flavors and advanced pastry techniques is offered in new
sidebars and recipes.
▶ Additional troubleshooting content is included to help students master challenging
bakeshop items such as puff pastry, meringues, éclair paste and pastry cream.
▶ MyCulinaryLab for On Baking features new culinary math questions with step-by-step
remediation that instructors can assign as homework. Topics covered in these problem
sets include measurement conversions, metric conversions, formula conversions, baker’s
percentages, and yield percentages. Updated chapter tests, chapter quizzes, and dynamic
study modules can also be assigned for homework.
ii
Hallmark Features Whole milk—that is, milk as it comes from the cow—consists primarily of water
(about 88%). It contains approximately 3.5% milkfat and 8.5% other milk solids (pro-
lactose a disaccharide that occurs teins, milk sugar [lactose] and minerals).
naturally in mammalian milk; milk sugar ◀ Learning
Whole Objectives
milk is graded A, B or C according to standards recommended 56 Cby h a the
p t e U.S.
r three
Visual Guide
After studying this chapter, Public Health Service. Grades are assigned based on bacterial count, with Grade A prod-
Each chapter begins with clearly stated objectives
you will be able to: uctsBAKING
having the
IS lowest count.THAT
A SCIENCE GradesRELIES
B and C,
ONthough still safe and wholesome,
UNDERSTANDING THE are rarely of moisture into the atmosphere; i
that guide
available for youortocommercial
retail focus
of theon what cancooking
use. Fresh be milk
whole Once astarch
is not available raw, retrogradation
but must be the process molecules within the product. Th
Trans FaTs BASIC PRINCIPLES baking and processes.
whereby starch molecules in a batter or starch molecules cool, becoming d
• understand the various mixing achieved
processed
student bydescribe
completing
asunderstands
we theactions
shortly.
that the chapter.
that take place when a mixture dough lose moisture after baking; the In breads, this moisture migr
methods used in the bakeshop
of flour, fat and water becomes a finished product are a function of result is baked goods that are dry or stale crust to become tough and leathe
Hydrogenated fat is less
• understand howprone to
heat affects
shelfbasis of Processing Techniques
scientific principles, he or she will be able to select ingredients and completely into the surrounding a
rancidity and has and
batters a longer
doughs, the absorbs moisture from the atmosp
life than nonhydrogenated
most bakeshop items fat. For work with formulas with greater ease. Though a degree in chemistry and texture of breads can be revi
Pasteurization
these reasons, it has
• identify andbeen used in
understand the basic or physics is not a prerequisite for working in the bakeshop, a good the temperature at which starch g
abundance in the food
baking manufactur-
and cooking methods By understanding
law, all Grade of A milkthe everyday must be science pasteurized of the prior kitchento retail makes sale.forPasteurization
a is the only once without causing additio
employed in the bakeshop process of heating something to a sufficiently high temperature for a sufficient length of The retrogradation process is
ing industry. But the hydrogenation After studying thiswell-roundedchapter, professional. Throughout this book different aspects
time to: to destroy pathogenic bacteria. ThisBACK typically requires holding milk at a tempera- peratures of approximately 40°F (
scienceyou will be able BREAD MAKING IS AN ART THAT DATES TO ANCIENT
process also results in the
• understand the formation of taste of the principles discussed in this ated unless they contain perishabl
havechapter are demonstrated and
• select and use ture of 161°FTIMES. (72°C) for 15 seconds. Pasteurizationthealso destroys enzymes that cause
Over the centuries, bakers learned to manipulate basic
of trans fats,and basic flavora principles
considered risk fac- yeast properly ingredients—flour, water, salt and leavening—to produce a vast variety products frozen or at room tempe
• perform the 10spoilage,
expanded upon.
thusofincreasing shelf life. Milk’s nutritional value is not significantly affected
tor for heart disease and possiblyyeast bread production steps involved in breads. Thin-crusted baguettes, tender Parker House rolls, crisp Products containing fats and sug
other diseases such as cancer. The by pasteurization.
• understand artisan bread-making
flatbreads and chewy bagels derive from careful selection and handling mercial bakeries usually add chemic
of the same key ingredients. A renewed interest in the traditional craft of
techniques retard staling, but these additives a
food ingredient industry is working
Mixing Methods are demanding,and techniques
baking has seen many new artisan bread bakeries open in recent years.
or the powder is reconstituted with Low-fat little-fat 1% milkfat. Nonfat milk, also referred taste to
theas fat-free,as interpreted by
sensations,
Gluten development is affected by a number of factors, including mixing technique the brain, of what we detect when food, buds on the tongue (i.e., sweet,
water, however, these become po- no-fat or skim milk, has had as much milkfat removed
and the presence of fat and moisture. Generally, the longer a substance is mixed, thedrink
as possible. The fat content must
moreor other substances come in contact nerves on the tongue or embedde
tentially hazardous foods and must be less than
gluten will 0.5%.
develop.Nonfat(However, milkextreme
shouldovermixing
not be substituted
in industrial forequipment
whole milk canin most
with
break baked-good
our taste buds to sensations of pain, heat or cold,
be handled just as carefully as fresh formulas
down thewithout the addition
gluten structure.) The oftypefatandto proportion
compensate for that removed.
of ingredients in a formula also affect or astringency.
milk. Do48 not store an open can of Safety Alerts
◀ Pasteurized milk needs to be heated to 200°F (93°C) to destroy certain milk enzymes
milk in its original container, and that are known to weaken gluten structure, resulting in sticky, difficult-to-handle
Brief
dough.notes remind you of
For convenience, drysafety concerns
milk powder and encourage
is often used instead because it requires no
keep all milk products refrigerated
at or below 40°F (4°C). you
heatingto incorporate
and is easily food
stored. safety
Yogurt, and sanitation
buttermilk andintoUHT yourmilk require no preheating
DESIGN SERVICES OF
iii
DESIGN SERVICES OF
# 105613 Cust: Pearson Au: Labensky Pg. No. 78 C/M/Y/K
Title: On Baking 0/e Server: S4C Short / Normal S4carliSle
Publishing Services
the
about 1 inch (2.5actual fruits)
centimeters) surrounded
Spoons
smaller bycentimeters)
(2.5 juicy redsmaller
pulp.than Antheinedible yellow
variety membrane
of items suchseparates thesugars,
as fruits,
seeds
than the other. To into
cut thecompartments.
pastry, Pomegranates
other. The largerare
ringsweet-sour,
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nuts are pleasantly
Straight
or chocolates. crunchy.
Spatula (Cake)
436
simply C
down.
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a pthe
hThe ecutter
r tand
tbright h ipress
red seeds
r t e emake
n two attractive
an rounds. Onegarnish.
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base
and is set aside. Use the smaller ring
juice is a popular beverage in
Mediterranean cuisines, andtogrenadine syrupcircle
cut out an interior is made from concentrated pomegranate juice.
from the
Select heavy fruits that are notround,
second rock-hard,
leaving acracked
border ringor heavily bruised. Whole pomegran-
ates can be refrigerated several of dough.
weeks. Pomegranates are available from POUNDCAKE September through Baker’s Pee
December; their peak season is in October. Pomegranates A baker’s peel is
of the deck oven
Mise en
PROCEDURE PFOR
Prickly l aCe ShaPing
Pears MEDalliOnS ◀Yield: Mise3 Loaves,en Place 9 in. 3 5 in. (22 cm 3 12 cm) each
❶ allow
▶ Roll the
out the butter,
puff eggsapproximately
pastry dough and buttermilk
1 1
8 to 4 inch (3 to 6 millimeters) thick and
French for “put in place,” this margin feature accompanying in-chapter recipes lists what needs Cutters
Prickly pear
cut it into even fruits, also known Method:
as cactus Creaming
pears
squareand barbary figs, are actually the berries of
to come to4-inch room (10-centimeter)
temperature. squares (upper left). Fold each in half di-
Cutting tools he
agonally. Cutseveral
throughvarieties
two sides ofof cactus.
Balloon
the dough,and They
Rigid
about 1
are tocentimeters)
be done
barrel-
Whisks
2 inch (1.2 before
or pear-shaped,
from the starting to prepare
about the size the
of arecipe, such
as preheating the oven, chopping nuts
large egg.
ZestCut
▶ edge. thea V,lemon and orange.
being careful not to cut through the corners (upperCake right). flour
Pull the sides 1 lb. 5 oz. 630 g 100% Most kitchens h
Their thick, firm skin is green or purpleor with
melting small sharp
butter. pins and nearly invisible stinging Table-Mounted Can Opener
▶ ofGrease pans. steel, chrome-pl
spongy, sweet and Baking powder 0.37 seeds.
oz. 11 g Peel 1.8%
the dough out (lower left) and bring the sides of the dough together to form a loop,
pinching themfibers. Their
together to sealflesh
(lowerisright). a brilliant pink-red, dotted with small black Baker’s
with either flute
▶ preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Unsalted butter, room temperature 15 oz. 450 g 71%
Prickly pears have thebaking.
aroma of with
watermelon and the flavor of sugar water.Straight Tongs bottom edge is s
❷ Chill the dough 20 to 30
Once
❸ Bake the medallion
minutes
untilpeeled,
before
prickly
golden and pears
well risen.
Brush
canbaked
Fill the
egg wash if desired.
Granulated
be diced andwitheaten
medallion
sugar ▶ Line Drawings
1 lb. 7 oz.
creamraw, or they can be puréed for making
690 g 109% nut cutter is a 4-
jams,
filling or jam. Brush sauces,
the bakedcustards or sorbets,
pastry with glaze. Cornthey
to which syrup or aadditional
Detailed
give vividline
pinkgranulated
drawings
color. Prickly 1 pears
oz.tools
illustrate areand 30 g 5% in the center. On
Rubber Spatula Melon Ball Cutter
especially common in Mexican and southwestern equipment sugar cuisines. commonly used in a bakeshop. becomes the dou
Saltand tender, but not too soft. Avoid 0.37 more round blad
Select fruits that are full-colored, heavy thoseoz.
with 11 g 1.8%
pastry before ba
Eggs, room temperature
mushy or bruised spots. Ripe prickly pears can be refrigerated for a week or more. Prickly 1 1 lb. (16 eggs) 480 g 76%
wheels, those w
Vanilla extract
pears are grown in Mexico and several southwestern states and are available from Septem- 1 0.25 fl. oz. (1 2 tsp.) 7 ml 1.2%
▼ Formulas
ber through December. Hand Tools Almond extract (optional) 0.25 fl. oz. (1 2 tsp.) 7 ml 1.2%
Prickly Pears
Recipes, more appropriately called formulas in professional Lemon zest, grated demonstrate techniques
bakeshops, 0.04 oz.and( 12 tsp.) 1g 0.2% Knives
Hand tools are designed to aid in cutting, shaping, moving or combining foods. 1They
provide delicious laboratory
154 C h a p t e r s i x experiments for all Orange
skill zest,
levels. grated 0.04 oz. ( 2 tsp.) 1 g 0.2% Good-quality kn
have few, if any, moving parts. The essential hand tools in the bakeshop are the spatulas, Pastry Wheel
PROCEDURE FOR
dough PEEling
scrapers, whisks, tongsPRiCkly
and specializedPEaRs
Buttermilk, room temperature 8 fl. oz.
cutters used every day for routine prepara- 240 ml 38% sharpened, well-
to o
tions. Sturdiness, durability and safety are the watchwords when selecting hand tools. construction and
Choose tools that can withstandBTotal
RA N batterthe F Fweight:
MUheavy IN useS ofWI T H RA I SIkitchen
a professional NS 5 lb. 5 oz.
and those that are
2558 g 405%
# 105613 Cust: Pearson Au: Labensky Pg. No. 282 easily cleaned. DESIGN SERVICES1 OF
C/M/Y/K Knife Const
Title: On Baking 0/e Server: S4C
Yield: S4carliSle
Short / Normal ❶ Sift
36 Muffins, 3 2 oz.the(105
flour and baking powder
g) each Method: together.
Muffin Set aside.
Publishing Services
A good knife be
GratersButtermilk ❷ Cream the butter 1 qt. until light and lump-free.
960 ml add the 152%
sugar, corn syrup and salt. Cream on medium Vegetable Peeler tempered into a b
Wheat bran speed 10 oz. and fluffy. add the
untilingredients
light 300eggs
g a few a47%
A variety of graters are used
Salt
to shred 0.75 oz.
into small uniform
22 g
pieces so at
that time,will
they
3.5%
allowing them to be completely incor- Carbon stee
blend or melt
All-purpose whenporated
easily flour baked. The before
1 most
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lb. 5 oz.common moregrater
eggs.is Scrape
630the down the bowl
g four-sided box 100%
after each addition.
grater. is soft enough to
This grater is made
Baking powderfrom
❸ add tin or thestainless
vanilla
0.6 oz.steel;
and each side
almond
(4 tsp.) is punched
extract with
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the3%holes
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varying sizes. A handle
Baking soda ❹onFold top insecures theoz.
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18 gbottom
with thepermits 3%foodsintothree additions each.
buttermilk
be released. A flat metal
Cinnamon, ground grater with tiny, 0.4razor-sharp
oz. (2 Tbsp.) holes resembling
12 g a woodworker’s
2% rasp Zester
Eggs for the
is now available Divide the
❺bakeshop. batter
These oz. evenly
6.5 graters
(4 eggs) into three195
are especially 9-inch
g for
useful 5-inch (22-centimeter
3removing 31%the zest 3 12-centimeter) greased loaf
from citrus fruits without pans.
Vegetable oil
any ofBake at
12 400°F
the bitter fl. oz. (200°C) for 15360 minutes,
ml
pith. Handheld or table-mounted thenrotary
reduce
57% the oven temperature to 350°F (180°C).
graters
Brown sugar Bakeand until 1 lb. centers
the 8 oz. 720 gbounce back114%
of the Graters
cakes whenfor lightly pressed, approximately 45 to
are used for grating chocolate
Raisins, conditioned
nuts into
1 lb.
a fine powder. 480 g
designed specifically
75%
nutmeg and ginger
Streusel are widely
Topping
55 minutes.
used. as if the
needed
cakes begin to darken,
as needed
cover them loosely with aluminum foil. Grater # 105613 Cust: Pearson Au: Labensky Pg. No. 2
Rasp-Style Title: On Baking 0/e Server: S4C
(page 145; Cool the cakes in their pans on a wire rack for 10 minutes.
❻ optional) Perforated,
Unmold Plain
andand Slotted
cool completely.
Spoons
Total batter weight: 7 lb. 11 oz. 3697 g 587%
Straight Spatula (Cake)
Variations:
❶ To avoid being stung❶ by a prickly
Combine ❷ and
the buttermilk, wheat bran Cutsalt.
a lengthwise
set aside for 15 strip
minutes.through the
(the mixture will look
Chocolate Poundcake—reduce the flour to 1 pounds 2 ounces (530 grams/85%).
deceptively dry.) Sift
▼ Icons pear, hold it steady with a fork, then
# 105613 Cust: Pearson
3
❷ sift together the ounces
flour, baking(90
skin.
grams/14%)
powder,
Slip
Au: the
Labensky
cocoa
baking soda and
tip of
Pg. the
No.
powder
cinnamon.
25knife into the
with the flour. C/M/Y/K DESIGN SERVICES OF
S4carliSle
Title: On Baking 0/e
use a knife to cut off❸both Server: S4C
ends.bowl whisk the eggs until cut and smooth.
peel away Short / Normal
add thethe skin bysugar.
holding Publishing Services
in a separate completely oil and brown stir into
the soaked branFrench-Style
mixture. Fruitcake—add 9 ounces (270
it down while rolling the fruit away. grams/43%) finely diced nuts, raisins and
Our adaptation of the MyPlate❹ Foldicon identifies
candied
in the conditioned healthy
fruit
raisins. into
then formulas.
fold the
in batter.
the dry addand2.25
ingredients fluid
combine ounces
without (67.5 milliliters/10%) rum to the batter.
overmixing.
rhubarb ❺ portion into greased
afterandbaking,
floured, paper-lined
brush the or silicone
cakemuffin
withcups. sprinkle withrum.
additional streusel top-
ping (if using). Bake at 400°F (200°C) until the center bounces back when lightly pressed, approxi-
TheAlthough
scale iconbotanically a vegetable,
identifies formulas
matelyfor18 torhubarb
which (ROO-barb)
larger
22 minutes. quantity is most often prepared as a fruit. It
Approximate values per 112 -cake serving: Calories 240, total fat 11 g, saturated fat 7 g, Cholesterol 80 mg,
is
measurementsa
❶ Creaming theperennial
are butter.plant that grows
provided in Appendix
Variation: III. sodium 170 mg,and
well in temperate totalcold climates.132
carbohydrates Only the pinkish-red
g, Protein 3g
stems are edible; the leaves
Up to contain
6 ounces (180 high amounts
grams/50%) choppedof nuts
oxalic
may beacid,
added which is toxic.
to the batter if desired. Balloon and Rigid Whisks
Rhubarb stems are extremely acidic, requiring large amounts of sugar to create the
desired sweet-sour taste.Approximate
Cinnamon, ginger, orange and strawberry are particularly com-
values per muffin: Calories 290, total fat 11 g, Saturated fat 1.5 g, Cholesterol 20 mg,
Sodium 450 mg, total carbohydrates 48 g, Protein 5 g, Claims—good source of fiber
iv patible with rhubarb. It is excellent for pies, cobblers, preserves or stewing. Young, tender Straight Tongs
stalks of rhubarb do not need to be peeled. When cooked, rhubarb becomes very soft and
PU MPK I N MU F F I N S
turns a beautiful light pink color. Rhubarb
Rubber Spatula
Yield: 29 Muffins, approximately 4 12 oz. (135 g) each Method: Muffin
Visual Guide
❸ Stacking the striped layers of dough ❹ Wrapping a layer of chocolate dough ❺ Slicing the block of checkerboard
to form a checkerboard pattern. around the log of checkerboard dough into cookies before baking.
Measurements dough.
All formulas include ingredient quanti-
ties in both U.S. and metric measure-
T ra diT io n a l S ho rT b rea d
ments. U.S. and metric measurements
for all temperatures, pan sizes and other Yield: 7 Dozen Cookies, approximately 1
2 oz. (15 g) each
dients unique to professional baking, Total dough weight: 2 lb. 11 oz. 1310 g 230%
baker’s percentages are used primarily ❶ blend the butter and powdered sugar in a mixing bowl without creaming. stir in the vanilla and
with breads, cakes and dough products salt, mixing thoroughly. add the flour and mix until just combined.
❷ divide the dough into four equal portions. roll each piece of dough into 8-inch (20-centimeter)
and are provided with those formulas. disks. wrap in plastic. Freeze until hard, approximately 30 minutes. Bergamot Shortbread
❸ remove from the freezer and unwrap, then lightly brush each disk with egg wash. cut each disk
into eight wedges. dock the wedges with a fork.
Variations ❹ bake at 375°F (190°c) until pale golden brown, approximately 15 to 20 minutes.
Variations show how to modify a for- Variations:
mula to create different flavor profiles Bergamot Shortbread—add 12 drops of oil of bergamot with the vanilla in step 1.
and new dishes. divide the dough into four equal portions. roll each piece into a 10-inch- (25-centimeter-)
long cylinder. Freeze until hard, approximately 30 minutes. brush each cyclinder with egg
wash. roll each cyclinder in granulated sugar. cut the cylinders into 12 -inch- (1.2-centimeter-)
thick slices, then place the slices cut side down on paper-lined sheet pans. dock the cookies
Nutritional Analysis with a fork and bake.
All formulas include a nutritional anal- Pecan Shortbread—add 7 ounces (210 grams/37%) of finely chopped pecans to the
dough in step 1.
ysis prepared by a registered dietitian.
Approximate values per cookie: Calories 70, total fat 4.5 g, saturated fat 3 g, Cholesterol 10 mg, sodium
30 mg, total carbohydrates 8 g, Protein 1 g Pecan Shortbread
DESIGN SERVICES OF
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Title: On Baking 0/e Server: S4C Short / Normal S4carliSle
Publishing Services
▶ sugar
Granulated Color Illustrations of Torte Assembly
8 oz. ❸ spread a small amount
Fresh gof orange Bergamot curdPatterned
240mint on the dacquoise.
Joconde as needed as needed
Orange juice 8 fl. oz. ❹ slice the almond HoneyGenoise
240 ml into three layers and placeDacquoise
Mousse (recipe follows) one in each torte ring.
1 lb. 480 g
BergamotFull-color
essential oilillustrations accompany
5–6 dropstorte formulas
❺ Make to5–6
a syrup from show sugar, orange juice andOrange
thedrops bergamotBergamot
oil andCurd
moisten the
Almond Genoise
almond Genoise 2400 with half
g of the syrup. spreadChocolate
with the remaining orange
the internal
Milk Chocolate Earl Grey assembly
Mousse of these finished desserts.
5 lb.
Bergamot❶curd. pick through the berries, rinse them Mousse
and then allow them to drain completely.
(page xxx) Cocoa Gelée
Cocoa gelée as needed ❻ place the remaining
❷ rinse almond
as the figs and cut them in half, leavingwell
needed Genoise in each ring and moisten thewith the attached.
stem
Edible gold leaf (optional) as needed forsyrup.
garnish❸ Loosely arrange the figs on a platter, sprinkle with the berries, garnish with mint and serve with the
❼ top each cake with the Milk chocolate earl Grey Mousse, filling the rings to the
rimthem
❶ lightly oil and sugar three 7 12 -inch (19-centimeter) torte rings. place
honey Mousse.
and leveling with a flatsheet
on a paper-lined metal spatula.
pan. ❽ Freeze until hard, approximately 2 hours.
❷ cut the patterned Joconde cake into strips 12 inch (1.2 centimeters) ❾ remove fromthan
the freezer
Approximate
narrower andofcover
values
the height perthe top surface
serving: with a thin
Calories 680,layer of cocoa
Total fat 47 g, Saturated fat 28 g, Cholesterol 370 mg,
the rings. Fit the strips tightly into the rings with the design facinggelée.
the ring. place a 200
Sodium layer mg,
of dac-
Total carbohydrates 57 g, Protein 6 g, Vitamin A 60%, Vitamin C 25%
quoise in▼ Flavor Sidebars
the bottom of each ring. ❿ remove the tortes from the rings, then decorate with edible gold leaf, if
desired.
❸ spread a small amount of orange Bergamot curd on the dacquoise.
Visual Guide
Dough too thick roll or cut dough thinner; bake cookies longer
oven too hot adjust oven
TABLE 10.1 C o o k i e Te x Tu re s
Cookies too pale Too little sugar in the dough adjust formula or measure sugar carefully
DESIGN SERVICES OF
# 105613 Cust: Pearson Au: Labensky Pg. No. 532 C/M/Y/K
Title: On Baking 0/e Server: S4C
DesireD
TexTure FaT
oven too cool
sugar Cookies underbaked Short
LiquiD / Normal FLour Publishing S4carliSle
adjust oven
bake
size or Services
cookies
shapelonger Baking
Cookies burned or too dark Too much sugar in the dough adjust formula or measure sugar carefully
Crispness High High; use granulated Low strong Thin dough Well done; cool on baking
sugar oven too hot adjust oven sheet
softness Low Low; useCookies overbakedHigh
hygroscopic Weak remove
Thick dough cookies from oven use promptly
parchment-lined pan;
sugars uneven oven heat underbake
rotate pans in oven to prevent burning
Chewiness
Poor flavor High High; use hygroscopic
Poor ingredients High strong not relevant;
Check aroma,chilled
flavor andunderbake;
freshness ofcool all on rack
sugars dough
ingredients
spread High High; use coarsepans
unclean High; especially Weak not
Dorelevant;
not grease room-
pans withuse greased
rancid fats; pan;
do not lowreuse
granulated sugar from eggs temperature dough
parchment paper temperature
vi
Crispness
Crisp cookies are made from firm dough made with a high fat and sugar content and a The sTory
low moisture content. Crisp cookies are usually portioned so that they dry out thoroughly B e h inD T h e C h ip
during baking. Cookie dough that spreads after baking results in a thinner product. When
baked through, cookies that spread are usually crisper than those with less spread. Using
History was made in 1930OFwhen Ruth
DESIGN SERVICES
a coarse granulated sugar in a formula
# 105613 will increase
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▼ Sidebars
Sidebars present additional information on food history, food in culture
ar t i s an and
and ythe
e as tbackground
b r e ads 197
of professional food service. These sidebars help you understand baking and pastry arts in a
wider social context. C o n v e n i en C e Pr o d u C t s
ar t i s an and y e as t b r e ads 171
Visual Guide
awaited baking. is
then the product Perhaps
mixed and some ancient
fermented ment.
tation ThetimesGauls
may and Iberians added
be different the
for breads in
also1654. Bonnefon’s
available. Frozeninstructions,
dough also comes meant
baker
as for substituted
scratch dough. fermented
Mixesale or beer
allow the foamy head from ale to
prepared from these products. Forming,their doughs. for those dissatisfied with
portioned and formed into loaves and commercial
for water one day. In any case,
baker to prepare a variety of breads with the result- Both methods resulted in
proofing and baking, however, are thelighter breads products of the time, included
rolls. It requires panning and then carefulthe use of
ing
few bread was different,
additional ingredients.lighter and mixes
Bread more that
sameretained their products.
as for scratch fresh textures longer. beer
thawing,yeast. By the
usually endrefrigeration.
under of the 17th cen-
appetizing.
may be made from all-natural ingredients, Since ancient sourdough
Powdered times, breadstarters baking give
has tury, published
Much of the works included
guesswork in therecipes for
proofing
or Based
they can oninclude
models,doughimages and writ-
conditioners been
breadsone theoftangy
the first
flavorhousehold
of sourdoughtasks breads
and baking leavened withhas
process sourdough
been removedstarter
ings found in to
and additives excavated
speed mixing tombs,and histo-
fer- readily
withoutturned overoftopreparing
the effort professionals.
and The
nur- and
with the yeasts bread.
parbaked used inThisbreweries.
is bread dough
rians
mentationare fairly
timescertain
and ease that the ancient
shaping. first
turingcooks to work
natural yeast.outside
Made homes
from a during
starter thatLouis
has Pasteur
been formedfinally and
identified yeast
then baked
Egyptians saved a bit of
Bread bases are dry blends of spe- fermented the Greek and Roman empires
mixture that has been dried and pulver- were bak- as
only long enough to stop allSoon
a living organism in 1857. yeastafter,
ac-
dough from one that
cialty ingredients day’s baking
must to addtotoa
be added ers.
ized,Thethese bakery tradestarters
prepared flourishedare during
simply ativity
process
and for distilling
solidify the or manufacturing
starches without
the next day’s. This use of
scratch bread formula or a mix. Bases aresourdough the Middle Ages, with a wide
added to the dry ingredients in a yeast variety of baker’s yeast was developed.
browning the crust. The parbaked bread By 1868,
starter
added to continues
a formulatoday, enjoying
in a ratio of fromwide-
25 to breads being produced.
dough formula. Commercial Yeast-leavened
yeast leav- commercial baking yeast
is then flash-frozen. was available
The restaurant op-
spread popularity.
50 pounds of base for each 50 pounds of breads remained the exception,
ens the dough while the starter lends its not the in stores.
erator simply pans and thaws the par-
flour. Bread bases come in varieties such tangy flavor. baked loaves or rolls, then finishes the
as multigrain, cracked wheat, oatmeal, Frozen bread dough enables the res- baking. With parbaked bread it is essen-
potato and herb among countless others. taurant operator or smaller bakeshop tial to bake at the temperatures and for
▼ Questions
it becomes dormant; above
for Discussion
138°F
A small bakery that would otherwise of-
yeast
(59°C), it dies. See Table
to offer freshly7.1.
baked Moisture
bread activates
even when the the time indicated by the manufacturer.
fercells, helping
a scratch the yeast
product convert
might use carbohydrates
a base time, inspace
the dough
or staffinto
are food.
limited. The dough Fully baked frozen breads, rolls, bread
Salt is used the
in bread making because it conditions
comesgluten, making it stronger and more
Questions for Discussion appear at the end of each chapter to encourage you to inte-
to expand
elastic. Salt
variety of breads offered. already fermented. It needs only sticks and other products are the ultimate
Waste is also affects
avoided yeast fermentation.
because large bags of Because thawing,salt proofing
inhibits the andgrowth
baking.of yeast,
Frozenit convenience, if not the ultimate in flavor.
grate theory and technique into a broader understanding of the material. Web-based
helps control
unusual the dough’s
flours, grains or rise. Toothat
nuts little salt andbread
might not only will may
dough the bread taste bland,
be purchased it will
in bulk; Inattentive reheating and cooling will de-
risenot
tooberapidly. Too much salt, however, and the
10-yeast
and will be destroyed. By learning to
activities, as indicated by the WWW icon, encourage you to conduct research and seek
control
used quickly
the amount
are replaced
of Check
food for
by smaller 20-pound cases are common. stroy the flavor, texture and appearance
quantities of bases. thethe yeast and the
ingredient Oncetemperatures
thawed, the of fermentation, you can
dough is portioned, of these yeast breads, however.
answers from
learn to control the outside
texture andyour primary
flavor of classroom
yeast-leavened products. material.
Types of Yeast
Baker’s yeast, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, is available in three forms: compressed, active dry
and instant.the(Do not beamong
confused Questions
❶ Explain differences activebydry
a product called
yeast, instant drybrewer’s
yeast and yeast; it is ayeast.
compressed nutritional
De-
supplement for Discussion
scribe the with noprocedures
correct leaveningfor
ability.)
working with these yeasts.
❷ Explain the differences
Compressed Yeast between a sponge and a sourdough starter. How is each of these items
used?
Compressed yeast is a mixture of yeast and starch with a moisture content of approxi- terms to Know
mately 70 percent.
❸ Describe Alsodough
the straight referred to method
mixing as freshand
yeast,
givecompressed
two examplesyeast must be
of products keptwith
made refrig-
this leavening kneading
erated. It should be creamy white and crumbly with a fresh, yeasty smell. Do not use
procedure. Compressedwindowpane
active dry yeast
Yeast test
❹ List the 10 production stages for yeast breads. Which of these production stages would also instant dry yeast pickup stage
apply to quick bread production? Explain your answer. starter punching down
TABLE 7.1 t emperature for Yeast dev e lo p m e n t dough rounding
❺ Locate a professional organization for bread bakers. What services are available to its temperature proofing
members? straight dough scoring
TempeRaTuRe YeasT developmenT
❻ Locate two recipes each for typical French, German and Italian yeast breads and deter- method refresh
34°f
mine whether they(2°C)
are made with theInactive
straight dough, sponge or other pre-fermentation sponge method lactic acid
60°f–70°f
method. (16°C–21°C) slow action sourdough acetic acid
75°f–95°f (24°C–35°C) Best temperature for yeast activity method poolisch
85°f–100°f (29°C–38°C) Best water temperature for hydrating instant yeast old dough biga
method
100°f–110°f (38°C–43°C) Best water temperature for hydrating active dry yeast
138°f (59°C) Yeast dies
◀ Terms to Know
A list of important terms used in
# 105613 Cust: Pearson Au: Labensky Pg. No. 197 C/M/Y/K DESIGN SERVICES OF
each chapter is provided to help
Title: On Baking 0/e Server: S4C Short / Normal S4carliSle
Publishing Services enhance your vocabulary and
# 105613 Cust: Pearson Au: Labensky Pg. No. 171 C/M/Y/K DESIGN SERVICES OF reinforce professionalism.
Title: On Baking 0/e Server: S4C Short / Normal S4carliSle
Publishing Services
vii
tools. Reporting features include data tracking and reporting for students, grades and question
usage. Detailed results are provided of students’ performance and use of the program.
Qualified adopters can download the following instructor supplements by registering at our
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Visual Guide
▶ Pearson Kitchen Manager. This valuable resource for culinary students as well as profes-
sional chefs features a vast collection of recipes tested in the kitchens of top schools. Pow-
ered by an extensive ingredient database, Pearson Kitchen Manager allows users to simply
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applications.
ix
ON BAKING
A TEXTBOOK OF BAKING AND PASTRY FUNDAMENTALS
SARAH R. LABENSKY
a n d P R IS C ILL A M A R T EL
w i t h EDD Y V A N D A M M E
Houston Community College
Credits and acknowledgments borrowed from other sources and reproduced, with permission, in this textbook appear on page 827.
Copyright © 2016, 2013, 2009, 2005 by Pearson Education, Inc. All rights reserved. Manufactured in the United States of America.
This publication is protected by Copyright, and permission should be obtained from the publisher prior to any prohibited reproduc-
tion, storage in a retrieval system, or transmission in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or
likewise. To obtain permission(s) to use material from this work, please submit a written request to Pearson Education, Inc., Permissions
Department, One Lake Street, Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458, or you may fax your request to 201-236-3290.
Many of the designations by manufacturers and sellers to distinguish their products are claimed as trademarks. Where those desig-
nations appear in this book, and the publisher was aware of a trademark claim, the designations have been printed in initial caps or
all caps.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
CHAPTER ONE
C ont e nt s
PROFESSIONALISM
2
CHAPTER FIVE
MISE EN PLACE
118
CHAPTER TWO
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT FOR THE BAKESHOP
22
PART TWO Breads
CHAPTER SIX
QUICK BREADS
136
CHAPTER THREE
PRINCIPLES OF BAKING
46
xiii
— Entä nyt?
— No miksi niin?
— Mitenkäs muuten.
— Ymmärtämättömyydestä.
Neiti Liisa Eropkin ei voinut sinä yönä pitkään aikaan saada unta.
Hänessä oli useana kuukautena käynyt taistelu: toiselta puolelta veti
suurmaailman elämä luoksensa, johon suuntaan sisarkin olisi
tahtonut häntä johtaa, ja toiselta puolen oli hänen rakkaudessaan
Mahinia kohtaan suurena vaikuttimena halu parantaa hänet. Ja nyt
pääsi jälkimäinen vaikutin voitolle. Liisa-neiti oli jo ennenkin kuullut
kerrottavan murhatusta. Mutta nyt hän tämän kamalan murhan
jälkeen ja kuultuaan Mahinin kautta Pelagejushkinin kertomuksen sai
pikku seikkoja myöten tietää Maria Semjonovnan historian, ja se
pani hänet hämmästymään.
— Millä tavalla?
— Aijon karata.
Vasili tunsi sen ylähuoneen, mihin hänet suljettiin. Hän tiesi lattian
laadun ja alkoi heti sinne tultuaan ottaa permannon lautoja erilleen.
Kun läpi oli kylläksi suuri, kiipesi hän lattian alle ja hajoitti alla olevan
huoneen katon. Sen tehtyään hyppäsi alakertaan ruumishuoneeseen.
Pöydällä makasi muuan kuollut vanki. Samassa huoneessa oli
säkkejä olkialuksia varten. Vasili tiesi asian ja siihen perusti
tuumansa. Linkkuhaka oli vedetty ulos ja linkku pantu paikoilleen.
Vasili pujottautui tästä ovesta ja meni rakenteella olevaan
makkilaitokseen. Tämän makkilaitoksen etukäytävän päässä oli
henkiläpi, joka ulottui kolmannesta kerroksesta alimpaan
kellarikerrokseen asti. Tunnusteltuaan missä ovi oli Vasili palasi
takaisin ruumishuoneeseen, riisui jääkylmän ruumiin päältä
liinavaatteen, jolloin tuli koskettaneeksi vainajan kättä, otti säkit,
sitoi ne toisiinsa solmuihin nuoraksi, ja vei tämän säkeistä tehdyn
köyden makkilaitokseen; siellä hän sitoi nuoran poikkipuuhun ja
kiipesi sitä myöten alas. Nuora ei ylettynyt maahan asti. Paljonko vai
vähän sitä puuttui, hän ei tiennyt, mutta mikäs auttoi, hän laskeutui
riipuksiin ja pudottautui alas. Jalat kuoleutuivat, mutta pystyyn hän
sentään kykeni. Kellarikerroksessa oli kaksi ikkunaa, joista olisi kyllä
voinut päästä ulos, mutta niissä oli rautaristikot. Piti nämä murtaa
ulos, mutta millä? Vasili alkoi tunnustella pimeässä. Kellarissa oli
laudanpätkiä, joista hän löysi yhden teräväpäisen, ja alkoi sillä
vääntää ulos tiilikiviä, jotka pitelivät ristikkoa. Kauan hän sai tehdä
työtä. Kukko jo toisesti lauloi, ja yhä pysyi ristikko liikkumatta.
Vihdoin antoi toinen puoli myöten. Vasili pisti laudanpätkän alle ja
painoi, jolloin ristikko vääntäysi kokonaan auki. Mutta samassa
putosi yksi tiilikivistä ja kolahti pahasti. Jokohan vahtimies kuuli.
Vasilin sydän kouristui. Kaikki oli hiljaa. Hän kiipesi ulos ikkunasta.
Karkauksen piti tapahtua vankilanmuurin yli kiipeämällä. Pihan
nurkassa oli seinän juurella vajarakennus. Piti kiivetä tämän katolle
ja siitä muurin yli. Piti ottaa mukaan laudanpätkä, jota ilman ei
voinut kiivetä. Vasili palasi jälleen ikkunan kautta, kiipesi uudelleen
ulos laudanpätkä mukanaan ja sydän kurkussa kuulosteli missä
vahtimies liikkui. Vasili oli arvannut oikein: vahtimies käveli
pihaneliön toisella puolella. Vasili tuli vajarakennuksen luo, asetti sitä
vastaan laudanpätkän ja koetti kiivetä. Lauta luiskahti alas. Vasili oli
sukkasillaan, hän heitti ne pois voidakseen paremmin varpailla
tarttua kiinni, asetti laudan jälleen nojalleen, hyppäsi sen päälle ja
tarttui käsin räystääseen. — Pitele nyt, purista lujasti, lujasti. Jo oli
polvi räystään päällä. Vahtimies oli tulossa. Vasili jää siihen
pitkäkseen tyrmistyksissään. Vahtimies ei huomaa, etenee jälleen.
Vasili ponnahtaa ylös. Peltikatto paukkuu jalkojen alla. Vielä askel,
vielä kaksi, siinä on muuri. Muurin harjalle on helppo käsin ylettyä.
Nyt on toinen käsi kiinni, nyt jo toinenkin, nyt vielä luja ponnistus ja
hän on muurin harjalla. Kun ei vain hypätessä särkisi itseään. Vasili
kääntyy takaperin, laskeutuu käsiensä varaan, venyttäytyy riipuksiin,
päästää toisen kätensä, sitten toisen, Jumala auttakoon! Maassa.
Maa on pehmeä.
— No miksi ei?
Nimismies naurahti.
- Anokaa vain.
- Siis saapi?
— Tietysti saapi.
— Voipi sähkösanomalla.
— Keisarilleko?
Vanhus oli saanut kirjeen Liisan isältä, joka ilmoitti Liisan tulosta ja
hänen epäsäännöllisestä, kiihtyneestä mielentilastaan. Kirjeessä
lausuttiin vakaumus, että vanhus oli saattava tytön kultaiselle
keskitielle, hyvän kristillisen elämän poluille, pois olevien olojen
vastustuksesta.
Vasili oli sillä aikaa pannut toimeen mitä oli tahtonut. Hän murtautui
tovereineen yöllä Krasnopusov nimisen pohatan taloon. Hän tiesi
hänet ahnaaksi ja pahantapaiseksi, avasi laatikon ja otti 30,000
ruplaa. Ja hän sai toimeen kaikki juuri niinkuin oli tahtonut. Hän oli
lakannut juomastakin, jakeli rahoja köyhille morsiamille, kustanteli
häitä, makseli ihmisten velkoja ja pysytteli itse piilossa. Eikä hänellä
muuta huolta ollutkaan kuin rahojen hyvä jakaminen. Antoi hän
niistä poliiseillekin, ja nämä jättivät hänet rauhaan.
Oli syksy, Proshka siirrettiin sairaalaan. Hän yski niin, että rinta oli
repeytyä, eikä voinut päästä lämpimäksi. Kylmästä vapisematta
saattoivat olla vain kaikkein vahvimmat miehet. Mutta Proshka vapisi
yöt päivät. Tirehtööri oli tarkka puista eikä sallinut lämmittää ennen
marraskuuta. Kovasti kärsi Proshka ruumiillisesti, mutta vielä
enemmän henkisesti. Kaikki tuntui hänestä vastenmieliseltä. Hän
inhosi kirkonpalvelijaa ja tirehtööriä, kun hän ei antanut lämmittää,
vartijaa ja naapurikopin vankia, jolla oli punainen, turvonnut
alahuuli. Ei hän myöskään voinut sietää erästä vastatullutta
pakkotyöläistä. Tämä oli Stepan; hän sai ruusun päähänsä ja
siirrettiin sairaalaan Proshkan viereiseen vuoteeseen. Alussa Stepan
inhotti Proshkaa, mutta sitte Proshka rupesi pitämään hänestä siihen
määrään, ettei muuta odottanutkaan kuin saada puhua Stepanin
kanssa. Vasta kun Proshka sai puhua Stepanin kanssa tyyntyi tuska
hänen rinnassaan.
— Missä siellä?
— Keltä se on?