Slow Rust Bluing
Slow Rust Bluing
Background Information:
Rust bluing is the classic look for firearms. This process was used on the high end shotguns and
rifles due to the look that set them apart from the others. All shotgun barrels prior to WWII was rust
blued due to the use of soft solder that was used to hold components such as double barrel being joined
in the spine, front sight post, and some lugs under the barrel. The solder itself is a very strong material;
however, it’s the heat level used to apply the product. When a barrel goes through the process of Black
Oxide or traditionally known as hot bluing, the salt solution is a rolling boil at 292 degrees. The soft
solder cannot with stand that temperature and begins to break down. Therefore it releases from the
metal components it was attached to. Then the double barrel becomes two single barrels, and the
shotgun takes on an entirely different look. It is very important to do your research on a old un to
determine an average age to prevent damage. A couple hours of research can save you a lot of money in
this case.
Procedure
Caution: Use the proper personal protective equipment and adequate ventilation when work
with organic solvents and corrosive chemicals.
Note: Sanding to 320 grit may help the rust bluing process. Higher grit may be used, but will
make the rusting process slower.
1. After sanding the metal surface to the desired grit level (320), thoroughly clean and
degrease the work surface with acetone.
2. Use the rust and blue remover to prepare the metal for bluing using the steel wool
paying attention to all surfaces and any pitted areas to remove any rust. Acetone again
3. Allow the metal surface to dry completely. From this point on, Do not touch the metal
surface with bare hands. If you do, degrease the surface again with acetone.
4. Pour a small amount of the rust bluing solution into a small container. This is to prevent
contamination of the bottle of rusting solution.
5. Dip a clean and degreased cloth patch into the rusting solution (small container) and
wring out until it is nearly dry.
6. Using slow, even strokes, apply the rusting solution to the metal surface. Complete
coverage is the goal. Use a single pass only, not a back and forth motion.
7. Place or hang the work piece in an out of the way area, preferably one with warm and
relatively humid air (shower area, sweat box).
8. After one hour has passed, repeat the wiping process as in steps 5-7.
9. After two additional hours, remove the metal and boil for a t least 20 minutes.
10. Remove the metal from the boiling water and allow to cool and dry.
11. Using the 0000 steel wool or the carding wheel, remove the black rust. Being easy on
the corners avoid removing the rust blue that was just applied.
12. Repeat steps 6-9.
13. After three hours, boil the metal again for at least 20 minutes and card off the rust.
14. Repeat steps 6-11 as many times as desired until a uniform coating is obtained.
15. Apply a coat of linseed oil or good quality gun oil to the surface and set aside for at least
24 hours. After 24 hours, lightly wipe the linseed oil coated metal surface with 0000
steel wool and gun oil. Special Note: If linseed oil is used, make sure to dispose of any
oil soaked rags in a flame proof container to prevent a fire.
16. After 24 hours has passed, reassemble the metal parts carefully.