Fit211 (Ii)
Fit211 (Ii)
In order to grow fish, it is necessary to have a suitable fish pond for better fish production. A
fish pond is simply an artificial structure/habitat that meets the necessary requirements for
growing fish.
Although there are many kinds of fish ponds, the following are the main features and
structures associated with them in general:
Inlet/outlet pipes or channels; which carry water into/away from the ponds.
Water controls; control the level of water in the pond, the flow of water through the
pond, or both.
Slope; pond’s slope is based on the angle of repose of the soil excavated. This angle
varies with type of soil. In most case, slopes of 1:1.5, 1:2 are recommended for
practical purposes.
Tracks and roadways along the pond wall; for easy access to the pond.
Harvesting facilities and other equipment; for the management of water and fish.
Follow these six (6) simple steps to build your own earthen pond.
Clear all vegetation around the spot for the pond and move the trash far away from the pond
location. The reason is that you don’t want to use soil that has plants in it to construct the
pond dykes.
In hilly areas, try to measure the slope of the land with a level or stick to find the best
suitable site and orientation for the pond.
Measure and stake out the length and width of the pond.
After measuring the pond length and width, use pegs to mark out the pond area.
Decide on the dyke slope and width and determine core trenches pegging. The pond dykes
should be about 0.5m above the water level (also called ‘freeboard’), to prevent the fish from
jumping out.
As a recommendation, make your pond dykes have a gentle slope of about 1:2. This makes
them strong and prevents them from undercutting and collapsing into the pond.
However, this ratio depends on the size of the pond. Larger ponds need to have a gentler
slope.
A clay core is a foundation for the pond dyke which makes it strong and prevents water leaks.
If you suspect the dyke or pond bottom soil to be highly permeable, dig a core trench, in the
same way as you would dig the foundation for a house, under the dykes around the pond.
Pack the core trenches with impermeable clay and compact it well.
Decide the depth of the pond and begin the digging process.
Use the excavated soil to build the pond dykes. Do this gradually, and compact each layer of
soil added to the dyke before the next layer.
Try not to use sandy/rocky soil or soil that contains roots, grasses, sticks, or leaves. These
will decay later and leave a weak spot in the dyke through which water can leak out
The essence of the drainage system is to empty the pond when there is a need to change the
pond water or harvest fish.
It consists of the outlet system for letting water out of the pond and the drainage ditches
which carry the water away from the pond.
The best and easiest way to have a good drainage system is to build the pond in a place that
provides a good slope.
The drainage system must be built before the pond dyke because some drainage devices go
through the walls.
All ponds, except for those filled directly by a spring or by rainwater, need water inlets.
If your water source is a river or stream, use filters (screens) to cover the inlet pipes so that
unwanted fish and other materials do not enter the pond.
i. Visual survey: As the name implies, this is the ordinary site inspection by moving round
the area. Then "Site Investigation Report" may be produced under the Heading: Situation of
Site, Topography, Source of Water Supply, Soil Type, Vegetation, Climate, etc.
ii. Detailed survey: This comprises of Land survey and Soil; Water exploration. For Land
Survey: there are the "Chain Survey" which entails use of the land chain or tape for
measurement of dimensions 'and calculating perimeters and areas of ponds, and
I. Abney Level: For reading angles of 'Elevation' and 'Depression' of land features
II. Land Chain: Chains linked in metres and sub-divisions for measuring distances
IV. Plane Table: Used in conjunction with the Alidade for carrying- out "on-the-spot"
production of plans
V. Stave/Rod: Graduated in metres and sub-divisions, used with the surveyor's level
VI. Ranging Pole: Steel or wooden poles, graduated and painted red/white for ranging
distance
VII. Optical Square: It is a simple instrument made by two triangular prisms super imposed
leaving a free space in between. This is used to square points.
IX. Prismatic Compass: For reading angles during 'Compass Traverse' of a plan.
To house 1000 mature catfish in a pond, use a pond with 5m length, 3m width and 1.5m
depth.
This dimension is enough to hold about 10,000-12,000 litres of water which is the amount of
water you need to keep 1000 catfish in a pond. You need about 10-12 litres of water for each
fish.
*** Note that this is a rectangular pond and the dimension may be different for other shapes.
Example; calculate the volume of water needed to hold 1,000 catfish at maturity in a pond of
the following dimension;
Length – 5m
Width – 3m
Depth – 1.5m
First we need to calculate the volume of the pond if we fill it with water to the brim.
i.e 18,000 litres of water will fill the pond to the brim.
Now, let’s say you fill the pond with water to 2/3 of its total volume.
That means, the volume of water in the pond is 18,000 x 2/3 = 12,000 litres (equivalent to the
volume of water we need for 1,000 fishes)
1,000 litres pond: This will hold about about 200-250 fingerlings. As the fish grow bigger,
you need to sort them and continue to reduce their number in the pond. At maturity, you
should have about 80-100 catfish in the pond. Ensure that you don’t overstock your ponds so
that it does not lead to stunted growth.
2,000 litres pond: This will contain 400-500 fingerlings. If you are growing them to table
size, then you will have about 160-200 fish in the pond. This will provide enough room for
the fish to grow.
5,000 litres pond: This pond will take up to 1000-1250 fingerlings. However, you must
continue to sort them as they grow to table size. Remember that stunted growth is real and
the health of your fish is also very important.
Pond Area Calculation
If a pond has an area of trapezium of 1.50m² and a total area of 10m × 30m, calculate;
i. Perimeter of the pond
ii. Earth required for one metre long bund
Solution
Perimeter = 2 (L+B)
= 2 (10+30)
= 2 (40)
= 80m
Earth required for metre long bund = area of trapezium × perimeter of the pond
= 1.50m² × 40m
= 60m³