January 2017

The Mountains of the Moon

Of the three glaciated mountain areas in The approach though the savanna grass takes us
Africa the most exotic and extensive are the though the giant rainforest and on to the area of high
heather trees. This is the land of dreams.
Rwenzori, "The Mountains of the Moon".
Onwards, we scramble up the band of rocks and on-
This World Heritage Site, set between the misty jungles
wards - across the Stanley Plateaus - Africa’s largest
of the Democratic Republic of Congo and the Lake Vic-
glaciated area and on to the snowy summit of Mount
toria plains of Uganda and stretching for 120 kms, is
Stanley. At 16,761 feet - 5109 metres.
home to many indigenous species of plant and bird
making it a naturalist’s paradise par-excellence.
Several routes are available up the mountain, with huts
and well-trained guides making a fully porter-supported
The Rwenzori Mountains have held a fatal attraction to
trek here a unique experience.
explorers for centuries. They have been described as
‘mysterious, unearthly and remote’ and are all those
things and more. Many people have fallen under their Don't be misled though - this challenge is not for
spell and many a legend of what lay at the heart of Afri- the feint hearted. But - the rewards are beyond
ca somehow found a home there. imagination.

Mohamed believed this was where the Garden of Para-

dise could be found. Everyone from Ptolemy to the
famous explorer Sir Richard Burton were convinced that
the source of the river Nile lay in what became know as
‘The Mountains of the Moon’.

Botanists reported the existence of plants like heather

and lobelia that grew to giant proportions. In the
Hammer film version of Rider Haggard’s She this was
where Ursula Andress bathed in fire to stay for ever
young in her lost mountain kingdom.

Ever since I heard of the Mountains of the Moon 20

years ago I felt compelled to visit them and climb to the
summit. The accounts could not capture the true magic
of this incredible mountain wilderness.

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 Margherita Peak - 8 day trek
After arriving in Entebbe airport near Kampala, we transfer to Fort Portal for
an overnight say on our first night in Uganda. The following morning we Day 1
make an early start from Fort Portal to drive to Kilembe - 1hr30min

DAY ONE
Steady walk with a steep climb for the last kilometre. Start at Trekkers at 1,450 metres
and sleep at Sine Hut at 2,596 metres being a height gain of 1,146 metres
Guides will brief our team at the start of the trek or the night before.

The trek starts at Trekkers Hostel in Kyanjuki,

which is situated 1,450 metres above sea level
and 12 kilometres from Kasese. We will walk
2.2km to the UWA rangers post at 1,727 metres,
which takes about one hour. Here we pay the gate
entrance fee and the rangers brief us on the rules
of the National Park.

Afro Montane Forest Zone. For the first two kilo-

metres there is a steady climb through pristine for-
est with multitudes of birds and there may be the
chance of seeing a wild chimpanzee or blue mon-
key scampering off through the forest. As we leave
the rangers post we walk along a path through tall
grassland and ferns which gives way to magnifi-
cent pristine forests. As this is a new route, the
forests are untouched and carry a wide variety of
trees and plants. Many species of birds can be
heard and seen in this rich environment.

The first few kilometres climb steadily, crossing

several small streams and rivers. Then we start
climbing the ridge. As we climb, the trees become
taller and straighter and it is common to see and
hear many types of primates. On the left we may
Courtesy of Rwenzori.Com hear troupes of chimpanzee echoing around the
valleys.
Typically around, our lunch spot at 2,570m it is
possible to see troupes of 20 or more black and
white Colobus monkeys or Blue monkeys as they
dash through the trees.
This vegetation is really something, with a wide
variety of species, and as if out of the film Tarzan,
the swinging, lichen covered vines are awesome.
Enock’s Falls are just 200 metres from Sine Hut
and offer a splendid opportunity to capture a
screensaver for your memories.

The wooden hut here is a set between tall forest

trees on a narrow ridge, with ten beds and a large
verandah where we may sit and enjoy the beauty
of the Afro Montane forest while we look down at a
fantastic waterfall crashing over the rocks far be-
low. Sine is just below the bamboo zone and the Top is typical of the vegetation on the trail climbing to Sine
area around has many different bird species. Hut which cross below Enock’s Falls. Above is the falls we
see as we sit on the verandah of Sine Hut

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 Margherita Peak - 8 day trek
Day 2 DAY TWO: Bamboo-Mimulopsis Zone - to Mutinda Camp

After a good breakfast, trekking starts at 8.30am and

we soon enter the Bamboo-Mimulopsis Zone, which
is a steep climb with many high steps. In the wet sea-
son the bamboo area is rather muddy and slippery
making the going slow. However, the atmosphere and
the forest is beautiful as we climb 551 metres altitude
and a distance of 1.8km to Kalalama Camp at 3147
metres. We are now in the Heather-Rapanea Zone
where we can take a rest and a quick cup of tea or
coffee before heading on to Mutinda Camp.
The trail meanders up and over several small knolls
along a ridge top then drops down the side of the val-
ley before climbing again. In doing so, we cross sev- Eventually we get to Mutinda Camp which is
eral small streams and pass close to moss covered set near a small river which drops off a water-
waterfalls. We then climb steadily along the side of a fall and offers a chance to wash and refresh
beautiful mossy river which tumbles down over the and relax. You may wish to climb up to the top
rocks under the Giant Heather trees whose trunks are of the Mutinda Lookout (one and a half hours
covered in green moss with old man beards hanging up and one hour down) The view and the at-
from the branches. mosphere is amazing as we stand on moss
covered rocks at 3,925 metres with views
The trail twists and turns as we climb up the across the Rwenzori Mountains and down to
deep valley, which has an enormous variety Kasese town and Lake George.
of plants and flowers. This valley is unique
with many Giant Heather trees creating a
beautiful atmosphere often shrouded in mist.

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 Margherita Peak - 8 day trek
DAY THREE: Alpine Zone
Day 3
4.9km starting at 3,688 metres climbing to 4,062 metres to Bugata Camp

Alpine Zone. The trail here is boggy particu-

larly in the wet season, but with a little skill we
can step from tussock to tussock to make the
going easier. We cross the Mutinda valley
through the tussock grass and everlasting
flowers interspersed with many Giant Lobelias
before we climb a steep section up to the Na-
musangi Valley (3,840 metres), which ends
abruptly with sheer waterfalls and fantastic
views of Mutinda Peaks.

The Namusangi Valley is a wide valley with many ups and downs and crossing several bogs as the trail
climbs steadily to Bugata Camp at 4,062 metres. Bugata Camp is situated part way up Bamwanjara Pass
high above Bugata Lake with views across Lake Kopello to Weismann’s Peak, which is often covered with
snow then down the valley views of Lake Africa and Lake Kanganyika and the many small peaks towards
Mutinda Camp.
The area is covered with tussock grass, everlasting flowers (St John’s Wort ) giant groundsel and Giant lo-
belia. There are many Red Forest Duiker (which are a sub-species only found in the Rwenzori Mountains.)
In the past Duiker have been very hard to see due to the thick vegetation but since the fire, which burnt
across the alpine region of the Rwenzori Mountains, they are now more easily seen in the new shorter
growth.
From here we can choose to walk directly up the valley, or take a more scenic trail meandering along the
hilltops with fantastic views of Lake Nusuranja from Plozza Rock. From Plozza Rock we also get amazing
views down the valley of nine lakes ringed by rugged peaks and ridges.

Bugata Camp has good facilities, solar lights, good toilets and bathrooms where the guides may
prepare some warm water in a basin for us to wash. Bugata also has a heli pad in case of the need for res-
cue by helicopter.

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 Margherita Peak - 8 day trek
Day 4 DAY FOUR: 6.2km starting at 4,062 metres climbing over 4,450
metres sleeping at 3,974 metres - Butawu Camp

We start by descending to pass through Bamwanjara Pass to Kachope Lakes - a trail that offers spectacu-
lar scenery of the main peaks ahead. On a clear day you can see Mt Stanley, Mt Speke in the centre and
Mt Baker.
On the right one can see McConnell’s Prong The Kachope Lakes area is one of the three known areas
where on a misty day one may catch a rare glimpse of the Rwenzori leopard. Little research has been
done on this animal. It is more rare than the snow leopard, which has gained so much attention in recent
years. After passing Kachope Lakes we climb to Camp four at 4,006 metres
The area is covered by everlasting flowers and Giant groundsel with the bogs being mainly tussock grass
and Giant lobelia. The nectar of the lobelia is the main food source of the Scarlet-tufted Malachite Sunbird
(which is common in this area and epidemic to the Rwenzori Mountains).

As we climb we look back to see the glacial lakes far down in the valley. On reaching the top of Bamwan-
jara Pass, we get excellent views of all the main snow capped peaks where we have a small shelter to rest
and enjoy the scenery.

The walk down to Kacholpe Lakes is steep and often very muddy but offers fantastic views of the lakes
and McConnell’s Prong - named after a British explorer and geologist.

Butawu Camp (3,974m) is set on a ridge high above

Butawu River which flows down from Scott Elliott Pass
through Kitandara Lakes and has excellent views
of the snow capped Mt Baker.

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 Margherita Peak - 8 day trek
DAY FIVE: 4.2km Starting at 3.974 metres climbing to 4.485
metres - Margherita Camp Day 5

We walk back along the ridge before crossing sev-

eral wet areas and small rivers coming from Mt
Baker to join Butawu River. Today is a relatively
easy walk past Kitandara Lakes and we will climb
through Scott Elliott pass to our camp situated right
on the pass with fantastic views down the valley to
Lake Bujuku and Mt Speke.
To the south we see Kitandara Lakes and Wies-
manns Peak. The walk up Scott Elliott Pass is en-
joyable as we climb up over the rocks and up to
Margherita Camp at 4,485 metres, which is below
Elena Hut.
The area is sheltered with a ring of high rocks and
the original camp used by the Italian Prince Luigi Scott Elliot Pass in the Mist - Courtesy of Rwenzori.Com
Amadeo di Savoia, Duke of the Abruzzi, who
mounted a very powerful expedition in 1906, composed of biologists, surveyors, a geologist and a photog-
rapher. The Italian led team, between June and July 1906, climbed the mountains, opening a new page in
the history of mountaineering and exploration in Africa, and providing an answer to the most unresolved
geographical questions in the region for centuries.
Some of the peaks still have the names, which the Duke chose to honour the Italian Kingdom and Queen
Margherita hence our naming this camp Margherita Camp. From here we have great views of Mt Baker,
Scott Elliot Pass and some of the high glaciers on Mt Stanley.
The camp is in a flat sheltered position covered with moss where we can get a good sleep before climbing
Mt Stanley including Margherita Peak the following day.

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 Margherita Peak - 8 day trek
Day 6 DAY SIX: 3.5km Starting at 4,485 metres and climbing to Mar-
gherita Peak at 5,109 metres then descend tor 2-3 hours to Buta-
wu Camp at 3,974 metres.

We wake up at 4am, have a quick snack and start climbing so as to get on the Stanley Glacier before sun-
rise. The climb up from Elena can be difficult if covered in snow and ice but it is classed as a “difficult
scramble”.
You reach the edge of the glacier at 4,765 metres where we will need to put on crampons and harnesses
at set distances. Although there are few crevasses the guide will lead the way to safety.
The scenery is spectacular and as we start to reach the up-
per areas of the glacier and the saddle between the two
peaks Alexandra and Margherita the sun will just be peeping
over the horizon giving the chance of fantastic photographs
of the two main peaks tip with sunlight.
We then reach the upper weather station (4,830 metres)
where we climb down to a ladder (4803 metres) onto the
upper glacier leading to Margherita Peaks. Rwenzori Trek-
king has recently installed a new fixed static rope with bolts
every two metres leading down a ledge to the top of a six-
meter aluminium ladder.
This route is much safer than the original ladders and clients
may attach to the fixed static rope with twin lanyards from
their harness. There is a couple of steel steps or rungs on
the tricky bit to assist when icy, all in all this is a safe route
and anyone with reasonable fitness is able to manage this
route. It is not classed as technical and it is easy in dry con-
ditions.
The climb up Margherita glacier is steep with the first part
around 30 degrees but the toe of the glacier is much steeper
and requires effort. Generally we walk across the newly ex-
posed rocks to the other side of the glacier where it is less
steep.
First we climb up the glacier to a small saddle between Alexandra and Margherita Peaks at 5,025 metres
where you scramble up a steep rocky climb to the main peak. At times the rocks are covered with snow
and ice and may be slippery but mostly it is firm rock.
The exhilaration of reaching the top is enormous as we
look across Albert Peak to the DRC (Congo) then east
across the spectra of the Rwenzori Mountains. After en-
joying the scenery and signing the book, we descend us-
ing the same path down to Camp 5

On getting near to the top of the glacier, we then need to

climb around an exposed section, which is also bolted and
roped, to get on the ridge running up to the top of Mar-
gherita Peak. On a clear day, the views from Margherita
Peak are awesome and your goal is achieved!
After summiting we then descend directly to Butawu
Camp or in the case of bad weather, we may need to stay
in Margherita Camp but the following day it will be neces-
sary to pass Butawu Camp directly to Bugata Camp.

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 Margherita Peak - 8 day trek
DAY SEVEN: Descend to Bugata Camp
10.1 kilometres - 5 to 7 hours. Start height 4,460metres walking Day 7
down to Camp 4 at 4,006 metres where the trail drops a little
more to pass just above Kachope Lakes at 3,985 metres and
then over Bamwanjara Pass (4,450 metres) then dropping to
Camp 3 at 4,006 metres

Late breakfast at 8.30am and start trekking by 9am. The climb up Bamwanjara Pass is step and in wet
weather can be rather slippery making it slow going.
While crossing the pass we get the chance to see hyrax sitting at the entrance to their rock shelter warm-
ing in the sun.
The hyrax’s main predator is the Rwenzori Leopard which is rarely seen, but occasionally people do get a
fleeting glimpse. The leopard has been heavily poached for it’s skin in the past and there are few left.
However on a rare occasion on a misty or overcast day, we may be lucky to see one briefly as they move
between the rocks.
Sleep at Bugata Camp and descend direct to base Camp in one day.
OR we can get an early start, take lunch at Bugata Camp then descend to Mutinda Camp. Sleep at
Mutinda Camp then the following day descend to Base Camp but generally it is better to sleep at Bugata
and descend all the way down the following day.

Margherita Peak - 8 day trek

Day 8 DAY EIGHT: Descend from Bugata to Base Camp

We start down the Nyamugasani valley across open moorland and large areas
of tussock grass. As this is a valley floor it is relatively flat and boggy. We
cross an open pass to gain the Mulyambuli valley.
After passing several small waterfalls and moss-covered valleys we reach the
Mutinda with fantastic views of Mutinda Peaks directly ahead.

We turn left just as before the river drops over a sheer

cliff to the Mutinda valley to walk down several steep
slopes until we reach the valley floor. Here we again
cross the river and continue down the valley to Kal-
alama. As we near Kalalama Camp we pass though a
beautiful valley dotted with Giant Lobelia. Some say
this is one of the most beautiful sections of the entire
trip.

We continue directly down the ridge through the bam-

boo forests along a steep ridge. As we leave the bam-
boo the ridge steepens through mountain montane
forest the Mulyambuli River.
Now the going eases to the Rangers Post 1,727m.
After lunch and signing out of the park we walk down
to Kilembe and stay over night in Fort Portal.

Day 10 R & R in Fort Portal

Day 11 Transfer to Entebbe. Flight home.

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 Margherita Peak - 8 day trek
SCHEDULE
Schedule
Outward Journey to Uganda

Departing LHR at 0630hrs on 10th January

and arriving EBB at 2230hrs on 11th January 2017

Day 1 Arrival & transfer to hotel in Entebbe. Sleep at the Boma Guest house. (11th January)
Day 2 Transfer to Kasese, sleep at Margherita Hotel. (9hrs transfer)
Day 3 Transfer to starting point, Brief and start hike, Sleep at Sine Camp 2596 metres
(20 minutes transfer to the starting point)
Day 4 Hike to Mutinda camp 3688 metres
Day 5 Hike to Bugata Camp 4062 metres
Day 6 Hike to Butawu Camp 3974 metres
Day 7 Hike to Margherita Camp 4485 metres
Day 8 Summit Margherita peak 5109 metres and Sleep at Butawu camp 3974 metres
Day 9 Hike down to Bugata camp 3,518 metres
Day 10 Hike down to Samalira camp 3174 metres
Day 11 Hike down to base camp, refresh and then transfer to the airstrip for your afternoon
flight to Entebbe. Arrive Entebbe at 1555hrs. Check in at Lake heights hotel.
Day 12 An option of Kampala city tour or relaxing by the beach before you fly out later in
the evening. (21st January)

Return Journey to the UK

Depart EBB at 2330hrs on 21st January

and arrive LHR 0740hrs on 22nd January.

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