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A Comparative Study of Trouser Pattern Making Methods

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DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2017.01.00031

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 Journal of Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology

A Comparative Study of Trouser Pattern Making Methods

Abstract Research Article

The rate of wearing trousers by females has increased in our modern society, Volume 1 Issue 5 - 2017
and increasing demands for trousers are not only for functional aspects but also
aesthetic aspects, physical suitability and movement adaptability. Fit is one of
the major concerns for the clothing industry, and pattern development process University of Leeds, UK
is significant during clothing manufacturing and the way clothing is constructed.
Various pattern making methods have been introduced to the industry considering *Corresponding author: Hye-Won Lim, School of Design,
clothing fit satisfaction, but it is still impossible to provide the optimized clothing University of Leeds, UK, Tel: (44)7480213635;
pattern for mass production. This study evaluated four trouser pattern making Email:
methods known as the Aldrich, Armstrong, Bunka, and ESMOD methods focusing
on fit consideration by application onto human subject’s evaluation test. The Received: February 16, 2017 | Published: May 04, 2017
fundamental body dimension data were measured by a 3D body scanning system,
and four trousers according to the four different methods were produced by
both manual methods and an apparel CAD programme. The developed trouser
pattern blocks were compared using each part of constructing formula and
actual sizes. Experimental trousers were evaluated by expert and subject using
questionnaires, focus group, and in-depth interview. The result of evaluation was
analysed by statistical and qualitative analysis.

Keywords: Clothing fit; Clothing comfort; Fit evaluation; Fit preference;

Trousers pattern

Introduction d. A reference for obtaining other sizes in the range

The clothing industry has been developing under the influence e. A reduction in the number of patterns to be retained and
of customers’ growing needs and machine development. One of stored and
the aspects of competitiveness in the clothing industry is to have
f. Streamlined product development of each succeeding
professional pattern making skills to fit customers’ satisfaction.
seasonal line. [5].
Therefore, various pattern making methods have been introduced
to define the clothing fit and suitable size for different body shapes Pattern makers convert the basic block pattern into the more
and body measurements. detailed design. When pattern makers develop a clothing pattern,
fit evaluation is carried out to check for problems before clothing
The pattern for clothing is a set of two-dimensional template
manufacturing. The clothing industry normally uses fitting models
pieces for a basic three-dimensional garment, and it is also called
or dress forms to confirm design and fit. Using fitting models is
a block, a sloper, or a master pattern [1]. A clothing pattern is
determined as one of the best fit examination methods because it
required to adapt to the characteristic of body size and body
helps to observe closely and to inspect movements properly [6].
type, and it is classified into basic block pattern, style block
pattern, and production pattern. The basic block pattern is the Clothing fit analysis is a complicated process to find out the
pattern which is constructed from body measurements with relation between the body and clothing, and to judge how much
affordable ease allowance for movability. The style block pattern the clothing has to be adjusted to a set of requirements [7]. There
is the clothing pattern which has a specific style of basic design, are five elements in clothing fit evaluation; ease, line, grain,
and the production pattern is the final developed pattern for balance, and set [7]. Well-fitted garments should sit properly on
manufacturing different clothing sizes [2,3]. the body having proper proportions and sufficient ease without
pulling, fabric contortions, and compression. Consideration of
The basic block pattern is important because it is the basis to
customer fit preference is crucial for the clothing manufacturing
be modified for developing further stages of the pattern. The ideal
process, and clothing manufacturers should analyze the body
basic block pattern is required to cover various body types and to
size and type of the target market even though each customer’s
apply any design and clothing type [2]. Also, a basic block pattern
preference might be subjective and different [8].
is developed for efficient clothing manufacturing production [4].
The purpose of any basic block pattern is to provide: The experimental fit evaluation is divided into a sensory test
and a 3D non-contact test. A sensory test is conducted by the
a. Consistent fit
subjective judgments of experts or wearers. A sensory evaluation
b. Appropriate ease is a method using the psychological premise to judge physical
properties and to predict customers’ reactions [9]. Also, a sensory
c. A source for styled patterns test allows for systematic subjective product evaluation and it is

Submit Manuscript | http://medcraveonline.com J Textile Eng Fashion Technol 2017, 1(5): 00031
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A Comparative Study of Trouser Pattern Making Methods ©2017 Lim et al. 2/9

a professional and expert judge’s responses [8,9]. There are some Materials and Methods
limitations which surround circumstance and personal situation
influencing the accuracy of the inspection because this test Sources of pattern making methods
relies only on human visual sense. Also, there is a limitation that Four pattern making books were selected due to their
examiners might have different understanding or feeling of the prominence and popularity in different countries [13,14,21,22].
same descriptive terms. However, human judgment according to In this study, each method was named as ‘Aldrich’, ‘Armstrong’,
the affordable amount of sensory variation is generally accepted. ‘Bunka’, and ‘ESMOD’. The selected books were written in English
Sensory tests are classified into an appearance evaluation of except for the Bunka method which was translated into Korean.
the experimental garments, and subjective wearing sensation All methods use the metric system except the Armstrong method,
measurements by wearers. A checklist is constructed using and imperial system of the Armstrong method was converted into
photographs or illustration of garments and a Likert scale survey the metric system.
question at the sensory test. A 3D non-contact test which uses
virtual garment simulation allows checking virtual images of Subject selection
wearers on the computer screen. This test helps to measure the
The subject of this study was recruited from design students
gap between body and garment providing objectively quantifiable
at the University of Leeds. One Korean female subject aged 29
data. Even though a 3D non-contact test in the clothing industry is
was selected by the purposive sampling method because she
not yet generally used, it is evident that this method allows saving
had physically developed body features especially greater hip
time and cost of clothing manufacturing process [10].
size than average in her country, and this will be described at the
The frequency of female consumers wearing trousers has subject’ classification in the next section. This distinctive physical
shown a big increase compared to skirts in modern society [11]. difference and difficulties in buying comfortable fit of trousers of
Trousers are defined as ‘an outer garment covering the body subject were influenced for the subject selection.
from the waist to the ankles, with a separate part for each leg’,
and the stitch line is passed by front and back crotch line [12,13]. Body dimensions measurement
Trousers are more likely to show considerable body shape, and Body sizes of the selected subject were measured by a 3D body
movement suitability is more required than skirts, and trouser scanning system and manual measuring tools. Height, weight,
pattern development needs more body dimension data than girths of hand and head were measured by an anthropometer, a
skirts [14]. Trousers pattern development is influenced by body weight scale and a tape measure. A [TC]² 3D body scanner was
shape differences according to muscles and degree of physical used to measure the other body sizes. The subject was required
development, amount of subcutaneous fat and distribution to wear skin coloured upper and lower underwear during the
as well as increases with age. Increasing of the waist and hip scanning process. Figure 1 shows the 3D scanned data of the
circumference and depth measurements followed by physical subject.
developments is mainly considered for trouser development.
Also, thigh fat distribution and hip laxity are significant issues for
developing trouser patterns [14].
Trouser patterns from basic to final have been studied focused
on different ages, body shapes, and fabrics. As to basic trouser
pattern development, Kim [15] has classified lower body type of
obese senior women by the Rohrer index, then the experimental
pattern block and trousers for six different types of subjects were
evaluated. Hwang [16] focused on abdominal obese body type
women selected from the national sizing survey. Trouser basic
pattern blocks were developed based on the classified four groups
having different influential factors. Lee JS & Lee JR [17] chose five
obese women in their twenties and thirties based on BMI, and five
Figure 1: Body scans data on screen and printed data.
different pattern making methods were tested, and Lee DY [18]
selected subjects who had a greater hip circumference and depth
than the average women in their twenties, and three different Subject classification
pattern making methods were tested. Regarding different fabrics, BMI is body mass index which is calculated by Weight (kg)/
trouser pattern for the plus-sized women in their twenties made Height (m)2. According to the NHS in the UK, the BMI of the subject
by jeans was examined by Byun [19]. Knitted trousers for middle- (167.7cm and 68kg) was calculated as 24.1, and is considered
aged women were developed by Lee JJ [20], and she found that the healthy (normal) weight [23]. However, this BMI value of 24.1 is
front and back crotch length and crotch width should be longer classified as ‘overweight’ in Korea. Size Korea describes that BMI
for specific comfort with age. under 18.5 is low weight, 18.5~22.9 is normal weight, 23~24.9 is
In this study, the aims are to evaluate four different trouser overweight, 25~30 is moderate obesity, and over 30 is high-risk
pattern making methods with a focus on a specific body shape, and obesity [24]. As can be seen in Figure 2, the height and weight of
to find the most appropriate method. The characteristics of each the subject are ranked at the 98% and 95% respectively among
pattern making methods were compared, and the fit evaluation of the age group.
experimental trousers was conducted by experts and the subject.

Citation: Lim H-W, Cassidy T (2017) A Comparative Study of Trouser Pattern Making Methods. J Textile Eng Fashion Technol 1(5): 00031.
DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2017.01.00031
 Copyright:
A Comparative Study of Trouser Pattern Making Methods ©2017 Lim et al. 3/9

greater than the average Korean female Table 1.

Fundamental body measurement sizes

The fundamental body sizes for trouser pattern development
were collected from all measured body sizes Table 2.

Experimental trousers pattern development

Trouser patterns according to selected four pattern making
methods were made in the YUKA apparel CAD system (Super
ALPHA: Plus). The functions of this apparel CAD program are
mainly pattern making, grading, and marking, but only the pattern
making tool was used to make the trouser pattern, and all pattern
data were saved in a DXF file format.

Experimental trousers development

100% cotton muslin was used to make the experimental
Figure 2: Distribution of selected subject.
garments. Table 3 shows the fabric mechanical property values
measured by KES (Kawabata Evaluation System). In this study, A
Regarding Size Korea classification, Korean females in their KES-FB-AUTO-A system (KATO TECH) machine was used and the
20’s are divided into four body types; small inverted triangle, environment of the test was 20±2˚C (temperature) and 65±2 %
large inverted triangle, inverted triangle, and rectangle [24]. (humidity).
According to the results of ‘Female figure identification technique
(FFIT) for apparel©’ division, the subject has an hourglass body The experimental trousers were developed by a garment
shape because there is a small difference between her bust and making specialist followed by a bespoke sample making process.
hip and the ratios of bust-waist and hip-waist are almost equal 1 cm of the seam was used and a concealed zipper was attached
[25]. Therefore, it is found that the selected subject does not at the side seam.
belong to Size Korea’s classification, and the each measurement is
Table 1: Size Korea’s body type classification and subject’s body measurement (cm).

Small Inverted Large Inverted

Inverted Triangle Rectangle Average Subject
Triangle Triangle

Proportion 29.00% 17.30% 28.80% 25.00% - -

Bust 80 90.6 81.7 80.7 83.4 100.7
Waist 65.5 76.2 67.2 65.9 67.5 75.9
Hip 89.1 95.6 91.4 90.1 91.6 101.9
Hip-Bust 9.1 5 9.7 9.4 8.2 1.2
Bust-Waist 14.5 14.4 14.5 14.8 15.9 24.8
Hip-Waist 23.6 19.4 24.2 24.2 24.1 26

Table 2: Major body sizes of subject for trousers pattern development.

Part Size
Waist (Front) circumference 75.9 cm
Hip circumference 101.9 cm
Hip length (Right side waist to hip) 22.3 cm
Total crotch length 68.3 cm
Outside leg length 98.6 cm

Table 3: Mechanical property values of experimental fabric.

Bending Shear G(g/cm·deg) Weight (mg/ Thickness

Tension (8)
Fabric B(g.cm2/cm) 2HB(g.cm/cm) 2HG(g/cm) cm2) (mm)

Warp Weft Warp Weft

Cotton B 0.031 0.03 G 0.55

8.22 15.5 4.27 0.45
100% 2HB 0.0189 0.0206 2HG 1.58

Citation: Lim H-W, Cassidy T (2017) A Comparative Study of Trouser Pattern Making Methods.J Textile Eng Fashion Technol 1(5): 00031.
DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2017.01.00031
 Copyright:
A Comparative Study of Trouser Pattern Making Methods ©2017 Lim et al. 4/9

Experimental trousers photograph shooting postures of ‘stepping at walking pace’, ‘sitting 90˚’, ‘stooping 90˚’,
The subject with the experimental trousers stood straight, and ‘climbing the stairs’, and ‘squatting on hams’ numbered from
photographs of the front, side, and back were taken. Additional Movement 1 to Movement 5 were followed Figure 3.

Front, side, back

Five movements

Figure 3: Upright postures and five movements for evaluation.

Table 4: Experimental trousers’ evaluation criteria.

Part S. No. Criteria

1 Length of dart

2 Position of dart

3 Gap between darts

4 Position of waistline

(1) Front 5 Sufficient ease across Waist

(3) Back 6 Sufficient ease across Abdomen

7 Sufficient ease across Hip

8 Sufficient ease across Crotch

9 Sufficient ease across Thigh

10 Crotch line is free from pulling or riding

1 Balance between front and back sides

2 Side seams appear as straight lines on the body

(2) Side
3 Presence of wrinkles radiating in waist line

4 Presence of wrinkles radiating in hip line

Citation: Lim H-W, Cassidy T (2017) A Comparative Study of Trouser Pattern Making Methods. J Textile Eng Fashion Technol 1(5): 00031.
DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2017.01.00031
 Copyright:
A Comparative Study of Trouser Pattern Making Methods ©2017 Lim et al. 5/9

Evaluation of experimental trousers As to the evaluation, quantitative data was analysed. The mean
and standard deviation were calculated to measure the highest
Appearance and fit suitability examination was conducted by rank and variance analysis were conducted to verify significant
18 pattern making experts. These consisted of fashion majored differences in each body part and pattern making method. The
MA and PhD students and university teaching staff in the UK and narrative discussion of the focus group and interview were
Korea. The evaluation was carried out according to specific criteria recorded, and these were analysed by qualitative analysis.
on each part of the body; (1) Front, (2) Side, and (3) back Table
4. The experts observed photographs of the subjects, and five- Results and Discussion
point scale rating methods were used for response scores; ‘very
good=5’, ‘good=4’, ‘neutral=3’, ‘bad=2’, ‘very bad=1’. The subject Comparison of pattern making methods
also evaluated the experimental trousers when she changed the Major body measurements for trousers pattern developments
postures using the same criteria of the experts while photographs are circumferences of waist and hip, and lengths of hip and crotch.
were taken. As for the deeper understanding of the experimental Also, the amount and position of darts were influenced by the
trousers, discussions were held with experts and subject. general shape and comfort ability of trousers.
Analysis of experimental trousers As can be seen in Table 5, all the pattern making methods
Comparison of the fundamental composition of the four provide a different amount of allowances at waist and hip, and
pattern making methods was conducted. The construction of position and amount of darts were also different. The extra
the major body measurement parts with ease allowance was allowance of waist and hip were generated from the volume of
compared including position, amount, and length of darts. Also, overhanging parts on the front and back and influences the
crotch length, depth, and extension amounts were also compared. suitability of movement. As to the added amount of waist and hip,
The calculation formula of each measurement and actual size the Armstrong method adds the greatest amounts (8.88 cm in the
after following pattern development were also used for the waist and 6.34 cm in hip).
comparison.
Table 5: Main part of trousers construction methods (cm).

Part Aldrich Armstrong Bunka ESMOD

Front W/4+2.25 W/4+3.17 (W+1)/4+2 W+2/4
Waist
Back W/4+4.25 W/4+5.71 (W+1)/4-2 W (Front)+1
Front H/4+0.5 H (Front)/2+5.71 H/4+2 H+2/4
Hip
Back H/4+1.5 H (Back)/2+0.63 H/4+0.5 H (Front)+1.5

Front centre line, Front centre line to

Front Front centre line Front centre line
3.17 from the first dart out seam/2
Position of
darts
7.62 from Back centre line, 3.17
Back Waist(Back)/3 Waist (Back)/2 Waist (Back)/2
from the first dart

Darts in trousers are positioned at the parts where have hip lengths of Aldrich and Armstrong are not sufficient for the
the longest distance between waist circumference and outside subject.
circumference of the garment. In this study, the dart of the front
waist was positioned at the front centre line except for the Bunka
method which is located in the middle of the centre line and Hip length Body Rise Crotch Length
outseams line. Back waist darts of the Bunka and ESMOD methods
were located in the middle of the back waistline, and two back
waist darts of Aldrich were positioned at the point of 1/3 back
waistline but the Armstrong method follows the specific amount
of guideline (7.62 cm and 3.17 cm).
Hip length and Crotch area construction: Hip length is the
length from lateral waist to buttock protrusion on the right side
of the body, and it is measured following the body surface line Figure 4: Measurement methods of hip length, body rise, and crotch
[24] Figure 4. Hip length is determined in proportion to height length.
(Height/12), and it is also suggested with a fixed dimension (18
cm) [26]. The measured hip length of the subject is 22.3 cm, The crotch is defined as “The part of the human body between
and this dimension is longer than the hip length of Aldrich and the legs where they join the torso.” [12]. Crotch length is measured
Armstrong methods. Therefore, it is concluded that the suggested from the point of anterior waist to posterior waist passing crotch

Citation: Lim H-W, Cassidy T (2017) A Comparative Study of Trouser Pattern Making Methods.J Textile Eng Fashion Technol 1(5): 00031.
DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2017.01.00031
 Copyright:
A Comparative Study of Trouser Pattern Making Methods ©2017 Lim et al. 6/9

point, but body rise is the vertical distance from the waistline to other methods use crotch length to define the level of crotch depth
crotch point [24] Figure 4. line. Armstrong and ESMOD methods suggest choosing the crotch
size to be matched the subjects’ garment sizes in their own guides,
In this study, Aldrich method uses body rise (25.3 cm) while
and Bunka method uses the actual crotch dimension Table 6.
Table 6: Hip length and crotch construction in four pattern making methods (cm).

Crotch Extension
Dropped Amounts of Raised Amounts of
Hip Length Crotch Length
Front Back Back Crotch Point Side Waist

Aldrich 21 29 6.8 12.8 0.5 0

Armstrong 18.6 27.9 6.4 13.2 0 0
Bunka 23.8 34 5.3 11.2 0.6 1.2
ESMOD 23.8 26.5 4.8 9.3 1 0

Crotch length is also estimated from the hip circumference Bunka method raises 1.2 cm at the side seam of the waist which
with movability allowance (H/4+2~3 cm), and the crotch of the influences the general waistline to make higher Table 6.
selected subject is calculated 27.5~28.5 cm [26,27]. Therefore,
Amount and length of darts: The amount of darts is usually
it is found that Aldrich and ESMOD methods use shorter crotch
calculated by the difference between waist and hip circumferences,
length. Crotch extension is crucial for the aesthetic and functional
and length of the dart is decided by the protruded degree of
part of trousers which decide the general appearance and comfort
abdomen area and shape of the hip. As can be seen in Table 7,
ability. As to crotch extension, ESMOD provides the shortest
Armstrong method uses the greatest amount of darts, the longest
amount of crotch extension both front and back. It is concluded
front dart length, and the shortest back dart length. The number
that ESMOD trousers have the tight crotch than other methods.
of front darts Aldrich and Armstrong are two while Bunka and
Dropped amounts of back crotch point influences to wearers ESMOD have one, and a number of the back dart of all methods is
feel tighter, and four chosen methods have dropped back crotch one except two of Armstrong.
amounts between 0.5~1cm except Armstrong methods. Only
Table 7: Darts construction in four pattern making methods.

Number Amount Length

Front Back Front Back Front Back
Aldrich 2 1 2 cm 4 cm 10 cm 12/10 cm
Armstrong 2 2 2.54 cm 5.08 cm 11.43 cm 7.62 cm
Bunka 1 1 2.7 cm 3.1 cm 9 cm 10 cm
ESMOD 1 1 2.4 cm 2.4 cm 9 cm 10 cm

Width of trousers widest knee and hem widths. It was also found that Aldrich and
ESMOD provide the specifically added amount of back (2 cm and
The length of knee defines the position of the knee which affects
4 cm respectively) Table 8. However, the width of knee and hem
the leg length looks longer, and ESMOD was set at the highest
can be altered if it is necessary depending on design and style, and
position (60 cm). As to widths of knee and hem, the back width of
same amounts can be added or subtracted from the outline.
four methods is wider than the front, and Bunka method has the
Table 8: Knee and hem construction in four pattern making methods (cm).

Knee Width Hem Width

Knee Length
Front Back Front Back

Aldrich 64.5 25 27 (Front width +2 cm) 21.7 23.7 (Front width +2 cm)

Armstrong 66.4 25.4 30.5 20.3 22.8

Bunka 64.5 30 33 25.9 28.9

ESMOD 60 24 28 (Front width +4 cm) 22 26 (Front width +4 cm)

Citation: Lim H-W, Cassidy T (2017) A Comparative Study of Trouser Pattern Making Methods. J Textile Eng Fashion Technol 1(5): 00031.
DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2017.01.00031
 Copyright:
A Comparative Study of Trouser Pattern Making Methods ©2017 Lim et al. 7/9

Appearance and fit evaluation The key findings of discussion with experts are summarised
as below:
Experts evaluation: The results of appearance and fit
examination using by experts were analyzed by variance analysis, a. Crotch length of trousers seemed shorter than the body
and the results were verified by Duncan’s multiple tests (A>B>C) measurement size.
Table 9. Each part of the body (front, side, back) was analyzed
b. Hip length of subjects was longer than the standard torso.
separately, and the Armstrong method was found as the most
suitable at front and side with the back of the Aldrich method. c. Side seam around the pelvis area had an unnecessary ease
to cause creasing.
When the movement was analyzed, the Aldrich method received
the highest response for movements 2, 3, and 4, and ESMOD and d. Hip area had too much ease for the subject’s hip size.
Bunka were chosen for movement 1 and 5 respectively. Kendall’s
coefficient of concordance verified the level of significance the e. Waist line was highly positioned than nowadays lower-
rank match of the responses and the questionnaires Table 10. waisted trousers
Table 9: Result of upright posture examination by experts.

Aldrich Armstrong Bunka ESMOD F

(1) Front 3.70 A (.26) 3.72 A (.23) 3.47 A (.32) 3.18 B (.35) 7.42***
(2) Side 3.83 (.40) 3.92 (.39) 3.85 (.23) 3.49 (.22) 1.44
(3) Back 3.86 A (.23) 3.70 A (.18) 3.62 A (.19) 3.12 B (.45) 12.74***

***p<.001
Table 10: Result of movement examination by experts.

Ranking Movement 1 Movement 2 Movement 3 Movement 4 Movement 5

1 ESMOD Aldrich Aldrich Aldrich Bunka
2 Bunka Bunka Bunka Bunka Aldrich
3 Armstrong ESMOD ESMOD Armstrong ESMOD
4 Aldrich Armstrong Armstrong ESMOD Armstrong
W 0.03 0.52 0.07 0.14 0.09
p-value .68** 0 .31* .07* .21*

In general, unsatisfactory appearance and fit were generated were not found at crotch, thigh, and calf area. However, there
from shorter crotch and hip lengths in pattern making methods. was a slight increase in dissatisfaction when the subject changed
It was found that the uniformly fixed suggestion of crotch and hip poses, and the amount of discomfort increased from Movement 1
lengths calculated by height proportion were not suitable to the (standing) to Movement 5 (squatting).
subject. Unnecessary ease around the side seam and hip at the
Overall, the subject evaluated the Bunka method as the highest
experimental trousers are represented that the consideration of
and ESMOD as the lowest. This inferred that the crotch length size
curved body shape should be required. Also, it is inferred that the
in Bunka method was close to the subject’s crotch length, and it is
body characteristics between Asian and Western women should
also the longest among the four pattern making methods.
be considered. Asian women normally have a longer crotch and
shorter leg in comparison with Western women. Therefore, the The key findings of discussion with the subject are followed
chosen three pattern making methods developed in Western as below.
countries could not be adapted properly to the Asian subject. As
to aesthetic perspective, waist line was examined rather high, but i. Ease of each part was generally sufficient to give a
this is referred that the experimental trousers were constructed comfortable feeling except for the tight waist.
as the basic pattern block to modify into different waist-levelled ii. Unnecessary ease was found at the side and back of the hip
trousers. Regarding an opinion about clothing fit, it is found that in particular between hip and thigh at the back.
tight-fitted trousers are preferred as to be comfortable and good
looking. Also, fabric property is found as a considerable factor iii. The width of the trousers was too broad.
because tight-fitted trousers made by well-starched fabric might iv. Waist line was positioned higher than the trousers normally
be more comfortable than wide-fit trousers made of thick fabric. worn
Subject evaluation: Tables 11 shows the results of the evaluation The subject evaluated the waist area as tighter than the other
from the subject. Overall, the four experimental trousers were parts, and it was found that ease amounts around hip and side
generally examined as comfortable and significant differences were too much. This influenced the subject to feel that the overall

Citation: Lim H-W, Cassidy T (2017) A Comparative Study of Trouser Pattern Making Methods.J Textile Eng Fashion Technol 1(5): 00031.
DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2017.01.00031
 Copyright:
A Comparative Study of Trouser Pattern Making Methods ©2017 Lim et al. 8/9

silhouette was shaped inadequately and the trousers could not trousers gave discomfort to the subject. As same as the experts’
cover the hips properly. The width of the trousers was evaluated opinion, the subject also mentioned that the waist line position of
overly broad, and it is inferred that the flapping leg area of the the trousers was higher than her normal trousers.

Table 11: Result of examination by subject.

Upright
Movement 1 Movement 2 Movement 3 Movement 4 Movement 5 Mean
Posture
Aldrich 5 5 4.57 4.57 5 4.57 4.79
Armstrong 5 4.85 4.28 4.57 5 4.28 4.66
Bunka 5 5 4.85 5 5 4.85 4.95
ESMOD 4.42 4.85 4.14 4.28 4.28 4 4.33

Conclusion when choosing and analysing subjects for comparison, significant

consideration be given to body shapes and sizes. In order to
This study compared different trouser pattern making increase the reliability of the results of questionnaires, it is
methods through the basic pattern block developments, wearer recommended that more participants are collected for the survey.
testing experiment, and experts’ sensory test with discussion.
The suitability and applicability onto the specific body size and References
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Citation: Lim H-W, Cassidy T (2017) A Comparative Study of Trouser Pattern Making Methods. J Textile Eng Fashion Technol 1(5): 00031.
DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2017.01.00031
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Citation: Lim H-W, Cassidy T (2017) A Comparative Study of Trouser Pattern Making Methods.J Textile Eng Fashion Technol 1(5): 00031.
DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2017.01.00031

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