Abercrombie & Fitch Trading Co.

2018

RIGID DENIM Bureau Veritas** Intertek**

Sample Bulk Fabric Full Package Refer to package price list posted in
Package Price
Protocol # AF WV 108 (US $) Additional Color the www.anfcorp.com vendor portal
Package
Sample Size Full Package: 3 yards Important notes:
Additional Color Package: N/A  Bold Italic font denotes that test is regulatory. Requirement must
be met.
Yardage needed for regulatory testing is covered by  It is the garment vendor's responsibility to evaluate the fabric
the above yardage amount with the exception of : and trim compatibility with the garment and to garment wash
SW Flammability: 2 additional yards needed prior to bulk production.
Stretch Fabrics: 1 additional yard needed  An asterisk (*) denotes additional charges to the package price.
Test Stage Before Factory Garment Wash: Fabric as it leaves the  Two asterisks (**) denote price may be different in some
mill. No wash applied. countries. Prices are based on HK/Overseas lab locations.
 Please refer to the ANF QA TESTING PROCESS document for
details.
IMPORTANT: ALL DENIM FABRICS THAT ARE LESS THAN 8.0  When testing sample yardage, it must be specified in the test
OZ/SQ.YD. MUST BE TESTED USING THE WOVEN FABRIC request form (TRF) that testing is for DEVELOPMENT. Bulk testing
PROTOCOL AF WV 100 B INSTEAD. is still required.
Subject Line must specify: Denim Fabric, Fabric ID, Mill Name,  Please assign “Conditionally Approved” as the overall rating when
Color, Rating, Report Number results are failing requirements but within tolerance. This
tolerance document must not be shared.
TRF mandatory fields must be completed. Mill must provide fabric
spec/profile. Fiber content % and full fiber name must be included. Also,
if special care instruction email from A&F is not included in the
submission, please follow Guidelines.

REGULATORY REMINDERS: This protocol has to be used in conjunction with A&F’s Regulatory Compliance Protocol AF RC 001. All A&F raw
materials must be tested as per AF RC 001 at A&F approved 3rd party test lab only.
Test Package
Requirement/Standard
Full Add Test Name Test Method Lab Special Instructions
A&F Internal Tolerance
(1st Color) Colors
MATERIAL QUALITY TESTING
X N/A Fabric Weight ASTM D3776 ± 5% from claim If not claimed, report actual.
X N/A Fabric Count ASTM D3887 ± 5% from claim Ends x Picks
X N/A *Yarn Size ASTM D1059 As claimed on specs OR Report Actual Report actual results in whole numbers
On stretch fabrics, evaluate fabric for void.
Grab 1” of fabric between index finger and
X N/A Defects ASTM D3990 No major defects thumb and pull in the fill direction. Report
any objectionable or non recoverable
changes in appearance.
PERFORMANCE TESTING
Fabric Weight Warp x Fill
(OZ./SQ.YD.) (LB.) Use actual weight for pass or fail purposes.
Try to do at least 5 readings in each
8.0-10.0 100x80 direction.
X N/A Tensile Strength ASTM D5034
10.1-12.0 120x90 Report all individual readings as well as
average. Pass or fail based on average.
>12.0 140x100

Fabric Weight Warp x Fill

(OZ./SQ.YD.) (LB.) Use actual weight for pass or fail purposes.
Try to do at least 5 readings in each
8.0-10.0 5.5x5.0 direction.
X N/A Tear Strength ASTM D1424
10.1-12.0 6.0x5.5 Report all individual readings as well as
average. Pass or fail based on average.
>12.0 7.5x6.5
 RIGID DENIM A&F
Test Stage Bulk Fabric
Protocol # AF WV 108 2018

Test Package
Full Add Test Name Test Method Requirement/Standard Lab Special Instructions
(1st Color) Colors
Fabric Weight Warp x Fill
(OZ./SQ.YD.) (LB.)
Please perform as per method including
8.0-9.9 40@1/4” or 40 tensile strength. If unable to perform due
Seam Slippage or
X N/A ASTM D1683 to insufficient sample size, please follow
Seam Strength
ISO method as per garment protocol and
note method change in the report.
10.0 and above 50@1/4” or 50

 Test after 3 Washes - Machine Wash

Growth Warm, Tumble Dry Medium - No
(1 hour): Detergent (AATCC 135)
Elastic content ≤ 5% maximum.  Elastic content ≤ 5%: Pass or fail based
5% : on growth @ 1 hour.
 Elastic content > 5%: Pass or fail based
Tolerance: 5.5% on recovery @ 1 hour.
max  Report fabric stretch under tension (10s
X N/A *Stretch & Recovery ASTM D3107
& 30 min), growth & recovery (30 sec,
30 min & 1 hour).
 For growth & recovery result
consistency, mark & measure bench
marks on flat surface.
Recovery  Repeat the test after heat aging @ 200F
Elastic content > for 5 hours & report the results as
(1 hour):
5%: "DATA ONLY".
85% minimum

Follow A&F Care Guidelines for washing

conditions.

Provide specific comments. Report color

change as data.
No noticeable changes on fabric surface
Effects of Care Visual / Per A&F
X N/A (pilling. Fuzziness, waviness, etc.) and
Laundering (3X) Suggested Care
color change.
For all appearance failures, lab must
include side by side photo (original and
laundered samples). If failure is on a small
area of sample we need close-up photo as
well.

Mill must include fabric spec sheet with

the TRF.

Dimensional Stability As claimed on fabric specs, or report Washing conditions: Use same wash
X N/A AATCC 135
to Laundering (3X) actual. method as Effects of Care.

Fail if the value exceeds the shrinkage on

the specs. No growth allowed.

Washing conditions: Use same wash

AATCC 179, Method 1, 3% maximum
X N/A Torque (Spirality) method as Effects of Care.
Option 1 Tolerance: 4% max

In the case of a failure - the "fixed" fabric

for retest should be tested as received and
3% maximum after 1 wash - machine wash warm,
X N/A *Bow ASTM D3882
Tolerance: 4% max tumble dry medium. Use same
requirement and rate pass/fail for Bow.
Skew rated as Data.
In the case of a failure - the "fixed" fabric
for retest should be tested as received and
X N/A *Skew ASTM D3882 Data Only
after 1 wash - machine wash warm,
tumble dry medium.
COLORFASTNESS TESTING
X N/A pH AATCC 81 Data Only

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