HO

W
TO
MA

P. 1 0
KE

33
A
PR
O

SIMPLE
P

R
E

S
H
R SUMMER
IM
P
BO DISHES
IL
P.
31
P. 5 1

14
PICNIC-PERFECT
RED WINES
TO TRY NOW

P. 2 4

8
HARD SELTZERS
WORTH DRINKING
AUGUST 2022
(REALLY!)
 GIVE YOUR EYES
SOMETHING TO FEAST ON.

T H E A L L - N E W 2 0 2 2

G R A N D A DV E N T U R E S R E T U R N

V I S I T W A G O N E E R . C O M
 You always have a seat at our table.
Immerse yourself in a place that both recharges and inspires. A place where every meal is an event in itself.
Prepared with perfection. Served with a warm smile. Enjoy.

Scan for free

EXPLORECHARLESTON.COM trip planner
Sometimes
it’s the little things
that make
the biggest difference.
 © Inter IKEA Systems B.V. 2022

You don’t need a big budget to make big

changes at home. Let their imaginations run
wild while everything else stays organized.
Explore the IKEA Marketplace and discover all
the affordable home essentials and décor
designed for a better everyday life.
IKEA-USA.com/Marketplace
 EX PER IENCE
THE UNR IVALED ™

Unique and familiar flavors move across your palate in a perfectly tuned dance
of epicurean delight. The music that moves them is orchestrated by the creativity of your
chef, the direction of the maître ’d, the guidance of your sommelier and the attentiveness
of the wait staff. Every dining experience aboard Regent Seven Seas Cruises invites you
into a symphonic exploration of culinary pleasure.

Discover unmatched culinary delights with the unrivaled space and exemplary,
personalized service found only aboard The World’s Most Luxurious Fleet™.

EUROPEAN INDULGENCE
$500 Shipboard Credit plus 1-Night Post-Cruise Hotel Package*
on select voyages to Northern Europe and the Mediterranean in 2023.
This special offer ends August 31, 2022

START YOUR JOURNEY AT RSSC.COM

CALL 1.844.473.4368 OR CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR

*For applicable sailings and terms and conditions,

please visit RSSC.com/European-Indulgence
 What’s Cookin’
AUGUST RECIPES
CONTENTS

10 More than 30 recipes

perfect for end-of-
summer cooking

EDITOR’S LETTER

F E AT U R E S 12 The case for keeping

it simple

68 80 92 OBSESSIONS

17 Everything you need

The Bocce Battles of Summer Soups Rosemary Is for to host a party, a
Napa Valley See why soup isn’t just for Remembrance recipe for amba
For decades, winemakers in the winter with five summer-ready The dishes that make a summer (pickled mango
Napa area have come together takes on classic recipes. Some on Martha’s Vineyard, like sauce), hard seltzers
you won’t hate, why
to play bocce. These days, games are served hot and others cold, smoked bluefish spread and
guest books are a
come with a side of deviled but they’re all full of peak- roast leg of lamb, shared by a must-have, and a
eggs, caprese salad, classic season produce and are perfect culinary legend who has made take on ratatouille
fried chicken, and great wine. for hot August nights. By the island her second home
By Ray Isle Mary-Frances Heck since 1956. By Jessica B. Harris HANDBOOK

31 How to do a shrimp
boil right, flavor-
forward marinades
that turn into finish-
ing sauces for sum-
mer grilling, and a
chocolate-raspberry
icebox cake
Buttermilk
Fried Chicken
(recipe p. 76) BOTTLE SERVICE

51 The best Beaujolais

for summer sipping,
plus stone-fruit
cocktails to quench
your thirst (hello,
plum gin fizz!)

T R AV E L

61 Seafood is making
waves in Mexico City
with restaurants
inspired by the coast.

BACKSTORY

PHOTOGRAPHY: VICTOR PROTASIO; FOOD STYLING: CHELSEA ZIMMER; PROP STYLING: CHRISTINE KEELY
104 The wonky history
of corncob holders

8 AUGUST 2022 ON THE COVER photography by VICTOR PROTASIO; food styling by CHELSEA ZIMMER; prop styling by CHRISTINE KEELY
Credit approval required. Terms apply. See capitalone.com for details.
AUGUST RECIPES

Food & Wine (ISSN 0741-9015) (August 2022) (Volume 45/Issue 7) is published monthly except for a combined issue in December/January by TI Inc. Affluent Media Group, a subsidiary of Meredith Operations Corporation. Principal Office: 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281-1008.

Agreement # 40069223. BN# 129480364RT. © All Rights Reserved. Printed in the U.S.A. Customer Service and Subscriptions: For 24/7 service, please use our website: foodandwine.com/myaccount. You can also call 1-800-333-6569 or write Food & Wine, PO Box 37508 Boone, IA
Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 507.1.5.2) Non-Postal and Military Facilities: Send address corrections to Food & Wine Magazine, PO Box 37508 Boone, IA 50037-0508. Canada Post Publications Mail
key:
• •
fast vegetarian
• staff favorite
SALADS AND SIDES
•• Bacon-Wrapped Water-

89
melon Rind Pickles P. 101

50037-0508. Reproduction in whole or inpart without written permission is strictly prohibited. Your bank may provide updates to the card information we have on file. You may opt out of this service at any time. Member of the Alliance for Audited Media.
•• Deviled Eggs P. 79

•• Greens, Avocado, and

Blueberry Salad P. 101
STA F F- FAV O R I T E
• Pão de Queijo P. 38
PA I R I N G
•• Peach Salad P. 35
Smoked Bluefi sh Spread CHICKEN SOUP
P. 101 WITH GINGER AND

•• Watermelon
Feta
Salad with
P. 79
CILANTRO with crisp,
tangy white: 2020
•• Yountville
Salad
Caprese
P. 79
Hugues Beauvignac
Picpoul de Pinet

CHICKEN AND LAMB SEAFOOD

• Buttermilk Fried • ARoasted
Proper Shrimp Boil P. 33
Chicken P. 76
• Grilled Halibut
Red Sauce with
• Chicken Soup with Ginger
and Cilantro P. 89
and
Summer Squash P. 45
Herby Yogurt Sauce with
Grilled Lamb Chops and
• Shrimp Bisque P. 87

Cucumber-Couscous COCKTAILS
Salad P. 42 • Apricot-Nectarine Julep
• Leg of Lamb Cooked Over P. 57
New Potatoes with Spicy •• Café Brûlot P. 102
Mint-Rum Sauce P. 102 • Plum
Frosé P. 79
Maple and Grainy Mustard • Sour-Cherry
Gin Fizz P. 58
Sauce with Chicken
Th ighs and Green Salad
••• Margarita Mezcal P. 58
P. 41
•• Ti’ Punch P. 101

VEGETARIAN MAINS SWEETS

• Borscht with Buttermilk
and Grated Cucumber P. 84
•• Icebox
Chocolate-Raspberry
Cake P. 48
• Gazpacho P. 90
• Lemon Chess Pie P. 102
• Sauce
Pomegranate-Tahini
ESSENTIALS

101
with Halloumi-and-
STA F F- FAV O R I T E PA I R I N G
Vegetable Skewers P. 44
• Amba (Pickled Mango
BACON-WRAPPED WATERMELON
• Ratatouille P. 29 Sauce) P. 22
RIND PICKLES with Ti’ Punch, a
•• Vaghareli Corn Flautas •• Cocktail Sauce P. 33
blanc rhum agricole cocktail with with Chutney Crema P. 37
•• Strawberry Simple
lime and sugar (recipe p. 101) • Vichyssoise P. 83 Syrup P. 79

What Ray’s Pouring Now Executive Wine Editor

Ray Isle’s favorite things to drink this month

2021 TIBERIO CERASUOLO THACKREY & CO. PLEIADES 2019 RAMEY WINE CELLARS
D’ABRUZZO ($25) XXVIII EDITION ($27) RITCHIE VINEYARD
CHARDONNAY ($75)
Toss out your pale pink Provençal Sean Thackrey, the iconoclastic
ILLUSTRATION: LUCY ENGELMAN

rosés, please. This transparently Bolinas-based winemaker who I poured several older vintages of
scarlet wine from Cristiana created this wine, passed away in this single-vineyard California
Tiberio, a star in Italy’s Abruzzo May, too young at 79. Thackrey white at the new Healdsburg
region, makes most rosés seem was a brilliant thinker, and his Wine & Food Experience in May.
anemic and bland. A traditional remarkable wines—like this The 2005 was a testimony to
style in the region, it’s filled with luscious, alluring nonvintage David Ramey’s stellar Chardon-
citrus and wild strawberry flavors. Rhône-style blend—remain as a nay expertise; the current vin-
I plan to drink it all month long. memory to his talents. tage should age just as well.

10 AUGUST 2022
EDITOR’S LETTER

Keep It
Simple
WHEN I GROW UP, I’m going to build the From the
outdoor kitchen of my dreams, the one Home Office
that I’ve sketched in notebooks dozens
of times. For now, the backyard patio will A BOIL, FRY, AND
SEAR STATION
suffice. Many nights this summer, you’ll
Make the most out of
find me out there cooking over a basic
your propane burner with
propane burner. a few inexpensive tools.
Much though I love my grills and out- I recommend a four-leg
door pizza oven, the propane burner has burner like the 16-Inch
turned out to be the most versatile out- Stainless Bayou Cooker
($145, bayouclassic.com)
door gear I own and the one I recom- because it’s more stable
mend the most. I got my first one 20 years than tripod cookers. A
ago to deep-fry Thanksgiving turkeys and 25-Quart Aluminum
learned about its utility over time. The ring burner on my current four-legged Shrimp Pot and strainer
insert work equally well
stainless steel model cranks up to 59,000 BTUs. That kind of output quickly for frying turkeys or
brings a tall pot of water to a boil for my Proper Shrimp Boil (p. 33) or gets boiling seafood ($63,
a wide, shallow pan ripping hot, perfect for everything from paella and bayouclassic.com). Or
seared fish to skillet-fried chicken. place a Lodge 15-Inch
Seasoned Carbon Steel
You’ll find these basic cookers in backyards and driveways all over the Dual Handle Pan ($90,
South. They remind me of the rewards of simple cooking, especially at this lodgecastiron.com) on top
time of year, when the days are long and hot and summer’s fruits and veg- to create a sear station for
etables are at their peak. The best meals for gatherings are the simplest ones making rice dishes, pan-
roasting fish, or blister-
that give you time to be present. That’s the through line that connects all charring vegetables like
the stories and recipes in this issue, from classic one-pot summer soups shishito peppers or green
(p. 80), to the picnic menu of fried chicken and frosé shared by the wine beans. Basic tools like
pros who play on a Napa Valley bocce team (p. 68), to the elegant Bastille OXO 12-Inch Tongs ($16,
oxo.com) and a 9-Inch
Day–inspired feast that High on the Hog author (and recent Peabody Award Mercer Culinary Hell’s
winner) Jessica B. Harris cooks when she welcomes visitors to her summer Handle Fish Turner ($31,
home on Martha’s Vineyard (p. 92). amazon.com) make the
It’s the same spirit I’ve carried with me on summer rambles through the job easier.

rugged San Juan Mountains of Colorado and the cosmic canyon country of
southern Utah to a serene lakeside gathering with family in Northern
California, where I am today. Along the way, I’ve cooked on every-
thing from a campfire and a camper-van stove to a rusty grill,
improvising simple outdoor dinners on the fly. (Come to think of
it, that propane burner would come in handy tonight for stir-fry.)
Take it easy, folks. Be good to one another, and milk the last weeks
of summer for all they’re worth.
ILLUSTRATION: LUCY ENGELMAN

HUNTER LEWIS
@NOTESFROMACOOK SUBSCRIPTION HELP
[email protected] foodandwine.com/myaccount
or email us at
[email protected]
or call 1-800-333-6569.

12 AUGUST 2022 photography by RAMONA ROSALES

 editor in chief vice president/publisher
Hunter Lewis Tom Bair
vice president/general manager Michelle Edelbaum associate publisher, marketing Kerri Fallon Dilley
deputy editor Melanie Hansche executive director, global sales Vince Kooch

executive editor Karen Shimizu

B RA N D SA LES
executive wine editor Ray Isle
new york executive director, sales Lindsey Levine
managing editor Caitlin Murphree Miller
new york Jodisue Rosen
chicago Hillary Pavia
FO O D & E D I TO R I A L los angeles Lewis Newmark
miami (blue group media) Jill Stone, Eric Davis
restaurant editor Khushbu Shah
northwest (sd media) Steve Dveris
food editor Kelsey Youngman
las vegas/southwest/northwest (baak media) Tricia Baak
associate food editor Paige Grandjean southwest/southeast Jennifer Fan Messer
assistant food editor Andee McKenzie hawaii (media links) Laurie Doerschlen
asia Scott Thoreau
features editor Nina Friend
canada (dodd media) Bob Dodd, Lori Dodd
business manager Alice Eldridge Summerville mexico (advantage media) Pablo Glogovsky
editorial assistant Lucy Simon switzerland (media interlink sa) Neil Sartori

editorial fellow Alexandra Domrongchai d2c partnerships Tyler Hub

assistants Maria Garza, Cassidy Rafsol

CO PY & R ES EA RC H MARKETING
copy editor Erin Clyburn executive marketing director Amanda LaFontaine
copy editor Winn Duvall senior director, brand strategy Cara Wolf Erwin
director, brand marketing Antonia LoPresti Giglio
associate director, brand marketing Rob Sampogna
ART
senior manager, brand marketing Michelle Pallotta-
creative director Winslow Taft Calcagni
executive director, event marketing Diella Allen
assistant designer Ann Martin Foley
associate director, event marketing Amanda DeRienzo
event marketing associate manager Hannah Soltys
P H OTO event marketing coordinator Gabriela Garcez Kramer
special projects producer Devin Padgett
photo director Tori Katherman
photo editor Dan Bailey
CO M M U N I CAT I O N S

P RO DUCT I O N senior director, corporate and brand communications

Elizabeth Marsh
production director Liz Rhoades
O P E RAT I O N S
D I G I TA L production director Melanie Stoltenberg
senior production manager Tiffany Marie Gjerstad
senior editorial director Sean Flynn
director of quality Joseph Kohler
associate editorial director, food Chandra Ram
senior editor Kat Kinsman
H U M A N R ESOU RC ES
senior editor Maria Yagoda
director Carole Cain
senior editor, news and trending Adam Campbell-Schmitt
senior social media editor Sam Gutierrez
social media editor Merlyn Miller president, lifestyle
associate food editor Bridget Hallinan Alysia Borsa
digital operations editor Elsa Säätelä
e-commerce editor Megan Soll
photo editor Alexis Camarena
Customer Service and Subscriptions: For 24/7 service,
please use our website: foodandwine.com/myaccount.
culinary director at large executive producer You can also call 1-800-333-6569 or write
Justin Chapple Kwame Onwuachi Food & Wine, PO Box 37508, Boone, IA 50037-0508.
Reproduction in whole or in part without written
CO N T R I BU TO RS permission is strictly prohibited. For syndication or
international licensing requests or reprint and reuse
permission, email meredith.syndication@dotdashmdp
Betsy Andrews, Steven Blaski, Beth Brinsfield,
.com. FOOD & WINE Cookbooks Service, 800-284-4145.
Kate Cunningham, Charlotte Druckman, PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
Anthony Giglio, Joe Harper, Erynn Hassinger,
Mary-Frances Heck, Kate Heddings,
Nancy Jo Iacoi, Megan Krigbaum, David Landsel,
Rachel Lasserre, Clarissa León, Janet McCracken,
Josh Miller, Lauren Musni, Andrea Nguyen,
CB Owens, Jamila Robinson, Gail Simmons,
Lucy Simon, Joshua David Stein,
Julia Turshen, Andrew Zimmern

F &W COO KS

Jocelyn Delk Adams, Zoe Adjonyoh, Javier Cabral,

Samantha Fore, Paola Briseño González,
Leah Koenig, The League of Kitchens, Vallery Lomas,
David McCann, Hetty McKinnon, Andrea Nguyen,
Ann Taylor Pittman, Todd Richards, Yasmin Sabir,
Samantha Seneviratne, Nik Sharma, Andrea Slonecker,
Susan Spungen, Molly Stevens, Pierre Thiam,
Marcela Valladolid, Hetal Vasavada, Karla T. Vasquez
 ™

True to food
Fresh food has earned a home that will care for it in the best ways
possible. That’s why we’ve put so much innovation and engineering
into providing you with the largest capacity integrated column
refrigerators and freezers on the market. Long live freshness.

Largest Capacity
Integrated Column
For more information, visit SignatureKitchenSuite.com Refrigerators & Freezers

Copyright 2022© Signature Kitchen Suite, 111 Sylvan Ave., Englewood Cliffs, NJ 07632. All rights reserved. “Signature Kitchen Suite” and the Signature Kitchen Suite logo are trademarks of Signature Kitchen Suite.
PROMOTION

GA T
TH ICK
ER ET
-C S O
HA N
RL SA
ES LE
TO A
N T
.C
O
M

➤
 OBSESSIONS
Disco ball, garlands,
punch bowl, and party
hats all from Feste
(lovefeste.com); Splat-
ter Pink Salad Plates
from Social Studies
(social-studies.com)

AT H O M E

Party Helpers Throwing a party

has never been easier thanks to
these new services.
By Oset Babür-Winter
FOOD STYLING: CHELSEA ZIMMER; PROP STYLING: LYDIA PURSELL

produced by OSET BABÜR-WINTER photography by JENNIFER CAUSEY AUGUST 2022 17

OBSESSIONS
Clear Diamond Glass-
ware from Social Studies
(social-studies.com);
Colorblock Tablecloth
and Linen Embroidered
Napkins, Alhambra
gold lanterns, Moon
Matte Gold flatware set,
Monochrome Salad
Plates, and Gold-Edged
Salad Plates and Platter
from Misette
(misettetable.com)

F
OR THOSE OF US whose
hosting game might be
feeling a little rusty after a
couple of years of social distanc-
ing, a new breed of party plan-
ning service has got your back.
Whether you need help to pull
together a sit-down dinner party
for six or extend an open invitation
for drinks and graze-as-you-may
snacks for 20, these companies
make menu planning, decorating,
and shopping for ingredients and
wines not only feel like a breeze,
but also extremely fun. Read on for
a few of our favorites.

AT YOUR SERVICE
FOOD STYLING: CHELSEA ZIMMER; PROP STYLING: LYDIA PURSELL

PLAN DECORATE SHOP

Brenna Gilbert launched Feste (lovefeste Sisters Sarah Pecaut and Amy Burstyn Fritz If you find yourself planning a party in New
.com) last year when she saw a huge gap know that eye candy is everything; their York City, you’ll want to stop by Big Night
in the party planning industry, with hosts company Misette (misettetable.com) burst (bignightbk.com), an impeccably curated
having to choose between an inexpensive onto the hosting scene with several table- dinner party essentials shop from former
“peck and find” approach via online retail- scape collections that feature tablecloths, Infatuation editor Katherine Lewin. Here, you’ll
ers or shelling out for a full-service planner. place mats, hand-painted candlesticks, cut- find some of our favorite goodies for hosting
“We want to bring the joy, ease, and je ne lery, and more. Tight on space and want to or being the most welcome guest on the
sais quoi of great hosting to all our guests,” keep your table feeling fresh with every event? list, like cocktail napkins from Atelier Saucier,
she says. Feste takes its goal as a one-stop Try renting: Anchor & Fade (anchorandfade Rodolphe Le Meunier butter, and stunning
shop seriously, offering visual consultations, .com) offers tablescape styling and rentals glitter Lurex sponges from Hawkins New York.
design advice, floral curation, and Scene kits. that feature products from makers big and Can’t make it to NYC? L.A.-based Flask &
The company even handles selecting wine small, while Social Studies (social-studies Field (flaskandfield.com) ships many of its
via a thoughtful partnership with sommelier- .com) rents out stunning themed “Looks” in party-friendly gifts (like the Martini Picnic set)
favorite wine delivery service Parcelle. the form of individual place settings. and goodies nationwide.

18 AUGUST 2022 photography by JENNIFER CAUSEY

 A DV E R T I S E M E N T

Cook
Inspired by chefs. Powered by flavor.
The new HEINZ 57 Collection
is a pantry game-changer.

ABOUT HEINZ 57 COLLECTION

Transform everyday dishes into extraordinary eating
experiences with the new HEINZ 57 Collection of
Infused Honeys and Crunch Sauces. Inspired by
award-winning chefs, the collection ranges across
flavor profiles from spice to sweetness and even
umami, bringing endless possibilities for bold flavors.
A DV E R T I S E M E N T

JOE FRILLMAN basics of great

technique and makes
Renowned Executive it so easy. All you have
Chef Joe Frillman (of to do is reach into the
vegetable and pasta- pantry and you’ve got
focused restaurant, a great meal.”
Daisies in Chicago) is a Frillman often uses
big proponent of what the Crunch Sauces
he calls Crunch Science. and Infused Honeys
“Texture is so much more on vegetables, pizza,
than just what food feels fish, and chicken. “It’s
like,” he says. “It’s about a great way to regulate
the sound too.” There’s flavors and experiment
a sense of satisfaction with ingredients,” he
for the diner when their explains. At the end of
food is multi-sensory, the day, Frillman believes
which is why you’ll often that food is all about
find restaurants using a “craveability”.
variety of textures and
aromas for a single dish. Whether you use it as
a base to enhance a
As one of the culinary dish or as a topping for
experts behind HEINZ an extra wow, HEINZ
57 Collection, Frillman 57 Collection of Infused
wanted to bring his Honeys and Crunch
gourmet techniques Sauces unlocks the
to home cooks in a best of chef secrets
simple way. “HEINZ 57 for the delight of
Collection has all the every home cook.

Total: 40 minutes Step 4

Servings: 4 Grill the steak for 7
Ingredients: minutes, then turn.
1 lb beef flank steak Grill for an additional
1 tsp. cracked black 5 minutes or until
pepper the steak is cooked
1 tsp. garlic salt to medium doneness
1 tsp. sugar (150°F).
1/4 cup HEINZ Chili Step 5
Pepper Crunch Sauce Transfer the steak to
Directions: a cutting board and
Step 1 cover loosely with
Heat grill to medium foil. Let stand for 5
heat. minutes.

Step 2 Step 6
Score the steak on Cut the steak into
both sides with shallow thin slices, going
cross-cuts. against the grain.
Serve topped with
Step 3 HEINZ Chili Pepper
SWEET AND SPICY Combine pepper, garlic Crunch Sauce.
GRILLED FLANK STEAK salt, and sugar. Rub the
mixture evenly onto
WITH CHILI CRUNCH both sides of the steak.
 A DV E R T I S E M E N T

Mandarin Chili Pepper Roasted Garlic

Orange Crunch Crunch
Miso Crunch This one-of-a- The choice to
Inspired by a kind crunchy chili top a dish with
favorite flavor topping will add something as
Black Truffle Hot Chili exciting texture simple as fried
profile of Chef
Infused Honey Infused Honey Lee Wolen, this and craveable garlic unlocks
Add a hint of This is the crunchy topping umami heat to sensory depth,
decadence to game-changing adds a salty-sweet all your favorite activating sound,
any dish with this condiment you crunch to any dishes. Our blend smell, taste, touch,
liquid-gold honey. need to try. dish. It’s the ideal of chilies, garlic, and sight. Simply
It plays well with Cayenne puree accompaniment and onions creates put, this crunch
everything from and a variety for grilled seasonal the perfect amplifies the
sweet to salty. Try of unique chili vegetables, fish, balance of spicy power of garlic.
it drizzled over pepper extracts or chicken. Or and crunchy. Use
cheese, ice cream, deliver the perfect simply do as Chef it to spice up your
or salty meats. heat for dishes like Wolen does, and everyday dishes,
pizza, vegetables, enjoy it with and as your secret
and chicken. a bowl of plain weapon to wow
white rice. your family and
friends.

DEEPEN YOUR DISH’S

ESSENTIAL FLAVORS
with HEINZ 57 Collection’s premium Crunch Sauces
that accentuate the culinary experience with texture
and umami. It starts with every chef’s dynamic duo—
garlic and onion. Together, they mix with a variety of
citrus and chili to satisfy any palate.

DRIZZLE, BRUSH, DIP, OR COOK

HEINZ 57 Collection’s Infused Honeys, the perfect
blends of savory, heat, and sweet. Using ingredients
like unique chili peppers, they let you reimagine the
possibilities of your dishes with just one drizzle.

Unlock more chef secrets and game changing flavors.

OBSESSIONS

Amba (Pickled Mango Sauce)

ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

A blend of unripe green mango, white vin-

egar, and spices like fenugreek, cumin,
and tart sumac punches up this sour con-
diment. Some versions of amba are fully
pureed, but this recipe retains chunks of
just-tender mango to give the sauce lus-
cious body and bite. Try amba as a condi-
ment for roasted meats, or do as Lucy
Simon does and mix it with labneh for a
fast-fix dip.

1 large (12-oz.) unripe green mango

1/2 cup white vinegar
1/4 cup water
1 1/2 Tbsp. agave
2 tsp. Dijon mustard
1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1 1/2 tsp. ground fenugreek
1 tsp. ground sumac
1/2 tsp. ground cumin
1/2 tsp. ground turmeric
1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper
1 medium garlic clove, grated (about
1/4 tsp.)

Roasted meats or vegetables, for

serving (optional)
1 cup labneh (optional)

THE OBSESSIVE 1. Peel mango. Cut mango in half length-

wise; remove and discard pit. Chop 1

Party Pickle Why AS A CHILD, I was always afraid of the bowl of

ambiguous yellow sauce camped at the end
mango half into 1/4-inch pieces; set aside.
Bring vinegar, 1/4 cup water, agave, mustard,
amba should be at of our dinner table. It was sour and spicy, a salt, fenugreek, sumac, cumin, turmeric,
cayenne, and garlic to a boil in a small
your summer little fruity and a lot funky; my elementary-
aged palate struggled to decipher its com-
saucepan over medium, stirring occa-
sionally. Add chopped mango; return mix-
entertaining table plexity. The sauce is amba, a condiment ture to a simmer over medium. Simmer,
made of pickled mango and pungent spices. stirring occasionally, 2 minutes. Remove
By Lucy Simon
And nowadays, I can’t get enough of it. from heat; let cool until some of the
Amba is a diaspora food that tells the mango pieces are translucent, about 10
story of the Jews of Iraq. Iraq was once home to the oldest and largest minutes. Meanwhile, chop remaining
population of Jews in the world; there have been recorded populations mango half into 1/2-inch pieces; set aside.
since 586 B.C., during Babylonian times. Now, there are fewer than five 2. Transfer cooled mango-vinegar mixture
Jews. My obsessively recorded family history in Iraq dates back over to a blender; do not wipe saucepan clean.
2,500 years, since the destruction of the First Temple in Jerusalem. We Process mixture until smooth, about 30
FOOD STYLING: GREG LUNA; PROP STYLING: STEPHANIE HUNTER
had roots there until my grandparents (along with much of the Jewish seconds. Add 1/2-inch mango pieces; using
short pulses, pulse until sauce is a chunky
population) fled in the late 1940s, a time of increasing persecution of
consistency with a mix of small and large
the community. In the mid-20th century, displaced Iraqi Jews traveled
mango pieces, 1 to 2 pulses.
to Israel, and as they found a home in the newly established country,
3. Scrape mango mixture into reserved
amba became popular, too. Amba finally made its way to the U.S. with
saucepan. Bring to a gentle simmer over
families like mine, bringing its punchy flavor to celebrations throughout
medium. Simmer, stirring often, until
the year, complementing everything from grilled meats at summer amba turns 1 or 2 shades darker, about 3
cookouts to turkey and mashed potatoes at Thanksgiving. minutes. Remove from heat; let cool 30
My family’s amba recipe comes together quickly in a blender, though minutes. Serve alongside roasted meats
I keep some of the mangoes chunky for a satisfying bite. I also like a or vegetables, or stir in labneh for a tangy
little sweetness, so I add agave to balance out the sour green mango and and creamy version of the condiment.
white vinegar and to help bring out the flavor of the spices. At my dinner —LUCY SIMON
parties, I sometimes mix in some labneh and make it into a dip. I’ve MAKE AHEAD Amba may be stored in an air-
fully embraced the sauce of my childhood and made it my own. tight container in refrigerator up to 2 weeks.

22 AUGUST 2022 photography by KELSEY HANSEN

 When your
allergies are out
of control,

one sneeze
can rock
the boat.

Works
fast*

and
stays
strong
Stick with the consistent
day allergy relief of ZYRTEC®
after
day. ZYRTEC® starts working hard at hour one.
It works twice as hard when you take it again Scan to get closer
the next day and stays strong day after day. to allergy relief

*Starts working at hour 1. Use only as directed. ©J&JCI 2022

OBSESSIONS

TA ST E T E ST

Seltzer Saga The hard seltzer

aisle is overflowing. Here’s
how to pick some good ones.
By Oset Babür-Winter and Lucy Simon

IF YOU’VE SPENT TIME with another human over the course of the past
few summers, you’ve probably come into contact with a hard seltzer.
The appeal has layers: They tend to be relatively low in alcohol; live in
park-, picnic-, and boat-friendly canned packaging; and, perhaps most
importantly, come in flavors and carbonation levels that easily cater to
cider, beer, and soda lovers alike. While there’s constant innovation in
the hard seltzer space, there are also cans that haven’t earned the right
to live in your cooler. We tasted as many as we could get our hands on so
you don’t have to. Here are eight brands we recommend.

AMASS SUN SIGN AUSTIN EASTCIDERS PEACH

Sun Sign, from master distiller and We enjoyed several of Austin
Amass founder Morgan McLachlan, Eastciders’ seltzers, but the peach
is like a Creamsicle in a can, without hits the perfect balance between
being overly sweet. It’s mandarin- earthy, tart, and juicy. At 4.2% ABV,
forward with a pleasing vanilla it’s on the lowest end of the booze
finish—and the low ABV (5%) and spectrum even for spiked seltzers,
sophisticated pastel green which makes it ideal for hot summer
packaging don’t hurt either. ($55 FOR days when hydration is still a priority.
A 12-PACK, AMASS.COM) ($12 FOR A 6-PACK, DRIZLY.COM)

OWL’S BREW ENGLISH BREAK- WILLIE’S SUPERBREW

FAST TEA, LEMON AND LIME MORE-JITO REAL LIMES + MINT
There are quite a few boozy teas on Although the herbaceousness of
the market, but few preserve the fresh mint can be tricky to maintain
essence of a good brew as well as in a canned beverage, Willie’s use
this offering. It has all the appeal of a of real ingredients and whole fruit
classic Arnold Palmer with balanced make this drink—like a mojito
lime zest, making it perfect for an without cloying sweetness—shine.
earlier-in-the-day drink. ($17 FOR A ($20 FOR A VARIETY 12-PACK,
VARIETY 6-PACK, THEOWLSBREW.COM) DRIZLY.COM)

SONIC LEMONADE HIGH NOON GRAPEFRUIT

The fast food chain’s new hard With a juicy balance of fruit and a
seltzer line, in flavors inspired by hint of bitterness, High Noon packs
their beloved slushes, is not to be the flavors and aromas of fresh
missed. Our favorite? Classic grapefruit into a 12-ounce can.
Lemonade: Somewhere between a While High Noon’s seltzers were
frozen lemon pop and a bottle of impressive across the board, the
Orangina, it pairs especially nicely grapefruit’s puckery punch made it
with a sprig of mint, if you’re feeling a clear favorite during our tasting.
fancy. ($19 FOR A 12-PACK, DRIZLY.COM) ($11 FOR A 4-PACK, DRIZLY.COM)

RANCH RIDER TEQUILA PALOMA VERVET PALE MARY

Straight out of Texas, Ranch Rider Bring on brunch! Vervet’s fizzy
has mastered flavorful seltzers that take on a classic Bloody Mary gets
are not overly sweet. Grapefruit, top marks. Its likeness to the
lime, and orange bring the classic complex tomato cocktail is
paloma flavors to this tequila uncanny: celery on the nose, a
seltzer, and sea salt adds a finish lingering habanero pepperiness,
that leaves you wanting more. Grab and a ripe tomato flavor that hits
one and head to the beach. ($14 FOR both sweet and savory. ($22 FOR A
A 4-PACK, RANCHRIDERSPIRITS.COM) 4-PACK, DRINKVERVET.COM)

24 AUGUST 2022 photography by JENNIFER CAUSEY

AUGUST 2022 25
OBSESSIONS

THE BOOKSHELF

Pass the Pen Why a

guest book belongs at
your next dinner party
By Julia Bainbridge

I’VE KEPT A GUEST BOOK ever since I started

throwing dinner parties at home in New
York City 13 years ago. The dining table in
that first apartment may have been small—it
was my coffee table, actually, and my chairs
were backless and ground-level (i.e., they
were the floor)—but there was always a
guest book.
Something about the term “guest book”
makes it sound stuffy, but I assure you that,
unlike grape shears or a cake breaker, guest
books deserve a place in this century.
My guest book isn’t fancy—it’s paperback,
not leather-bound, and there’s certainly no
stand for it—and I don’t require that my
guests write anything particularly mean-
ingful in it. In fact, they don’t have to write
anything at all: signatures, drawings, stick-
ers, favorite quotes, lewd poems ... All of
these can be found in my current book,
volume three, plus one Bahamian dollar
with Sir Lynden Oscar Pindling’s face on it,
slipped between the pages by a friend fresh
off of vacation.
There’s no amusing story about how this
tradition started; it just occurred to me that
it might be fun. Remember fun? It’s fun to
look back over all the silly messages people
wrote me, remembering those evenings and
the people with whom they were spent. It’s
fun for my guests to show off their creativity.
It’s also fun to get sleep. And that’s the
final purpose of the guest book: Its arrival
at the table signals that soon, it will be time
for everyone to go home.

GUEST BOOK POINTERS

KEEP IT LOW-KEY GIVE IT TIME SAVE IT FOR LATER
The book doesn’t have to be expensive. When you present the book to the group, These are personal messages for you;
Mine is made by a Japanese company make sure there’s ample time for each there’s no need to read them aloud. Plus,
called Life and costs less than a Brook- guest to write while also participating in part of the fun is saving the love notes
lyn pizza. (Life Noble Notebook, $13, the conversation. Say something like, for a rainy day, when you need a little
amazon.com) “This is a book I like people to sign. Do pick-me-up.
with it what you will!” That lets them know
it’s a low-pressure situation.

26 AUGUST 2022 illustration by VIKTORIA CICHON

When your
underarms
are cared
for, it shows.

no digital
distortion

Dove Advanced Care Dry Spray has a weightless

formula that goes on instantly dry for effective
protection that’s kind to skin.

Because when underarms are healthy and

sweat and
protected, you’re more confident and carefree. odor protection
OBSESSIONS

FOOD STYLING: GREG LUNA; PROP STYLING: STEPHANIE HUNTER

THE ODE THE MOMENT SHE SET DOWN THE DISH on the table, I knew she
had won. Through time and plenty of olive oil, the sum of my
Real Ratatouille Provoked ex-girlfriend’s ratatouille—a tangled, glossy jumble of eggplant,
zucchini, bell peppers, onions, and tomatoes—had become much
by a certain Disney rat’s greater than its parts. There, glistening up at me, was the trium-
tian, a pair of cooks phant end to a summer in France, one we’d devoted to trying
to out-ratatouille one another.
determined to get to the Our cooking competition had been spurred in part by an
heart of true ratatouille. inability to go light on produce at the marché and in part by a
viewing of the Disney and Pixar seminal 2007 delight, Rata-
By Rebekah Peppler touille. (To clarify one disappointing and relatively overlooked
cinematic detail: Remy, the movie’s rodent-chef, made another
Provençal classic, the tian–which uses many of the same

28 AUGUST 2022 photography by KELSEY HANSEN

ingredients but is layered in a casserole and baked–labeled it ratatouille, and got 1. Place eggplant pieces in a colander.
away with it.) True ratatouille is simple: rich, tender, and transcendent when Sprinkle eggplant with 2 teaspoons salt,
made well; watery and mushy when not. To make one of the transcendent and toss to combine. Let stand 20 min-
variety—of the sort that might warm the heart of a jaded food critic, for instance— utes. Working in batches, pat eggplant
prepare to spend some time in the kitchen. Ratatouille should take a while. dry with paper towels. Heat 1/4 cup mild
I’ve made and eaten plenty of ratatouille in the years since, but my ex’s version olive oil in a large, deep skillet over
continues to reign. It starts with ripe, in-season produce. In the Western hemi- medium. Add eggplant, and cook, stirring
sphere, eggplants, onions, red peppers, tomatoes, and zucchini are plump, plenti- often, until eggplant is tender but not fall-
ful, and actually taste like something in summer through early fall. Make and ing apart, 12 to 15 minutes, adding 1 to 2
eat ratatouille in abundance then. While traditional recipes call for roughly equal tablespoons additional oil as needed if
amounts of each vegetable, I prefer eggplant cooked this way (rendered silky and eggplant sticks to bottom of skillet.
plump) too much not to bump the ratio up to two parts aubergine, one part Remove from heat. Transfer eggplant to a
everything else. Then, chop. Cutting each vegetable into small-ish, uniform-ish large bowl. Do not wipe skillet clean.
pieces ensures they have a spot in each forkful. But there’s no need to break out 2. Return skillet to heat over medium, and
your ruler—ratatouille is a casual, rustic affair. It may keep you in the kitchen a add 2 tablespoons mild olive oil. Add zuc-
while, but it wants you to relax while you’re there. Next, cook. Each vegetable chini, and cook, stirring often, until zuc-
should cook separately in its own bath of olive oil long enough for it to become chini is very tender and just turns
a tender, idealized version of itself. Once each vegetable has found its prime, translucent, about 10 minutes. Stir in
bring them gently together. This route, however scenic, allows flavors to mingle 1/8 teaspoon salt. Remove from heat, and

and roll around with each other in the final dish. Each will be perfectly cooked, transfer zucchini to bowl with eggplant.
nuanced, dynamic, and tasting both of itself and like ratatouille. Do not wipe skillet clean. Return skillet to
Garlic is a necessity, as is salting along the way. You can skip basil, but I like heat over medium, and add 2 tablespoons
the earthy tone that results from a few sprigs added during cooking and taken mild olive oil. Add onions, and cook, stir-
away before serving. Also untraditional but included in this recipe are red pepper ring occasionally, until softened, 6 to 8
flakes—their soft heat blooms and lingers. You don’t need the wine, but a quarter minutes. Add bell peppers, 2 tablespoons
cup imbues the dish with subtle acidity and offers an excuse to have a glass while mild olive oil, and 1/8 teaspoon salt, and
cooking and the rest of the bottle with the meal. Certainly serve ratatouille the cook, stirring occasionally, until bell pep-
day you cook it. However, should you have time or patience or foresight or all pers are very tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir
three, cool, refrigerate overnight, and then enjoy a deeper, richer ratatouille the in garlic, and cook, stirring often, 2 min-
following day. Time and patience work, yet again, in the dish’s favor. utes. Remove from heat. Transfer bell
I may have lost the ratatouille-off that summer, but I share the claim to lasting pepper mixture to bowl with eggplant
victory. Each year, from the first zucchini to the final, gently bruised tomato at mixture. Do not wipe skillet clean.
the bottom of the crate, I make and eat batch after batch based on that blue- 3. Return skillet to heat over medium. Add
ribbon recipe—sending gratitude to the person who started it all. Her summertime tomatoes, basil sprigs, crushed red pep-
method became my recipe that will become, hopefully, the next ratatouille you per (if using), remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt,
set and share on your own table. We’re all winners here. and remaining 2 tablespoons mild olive
oil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until toma-
toes break down and most tomato juices
evaporate, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in rosé;
2 medium (8-oz.) zucchini, cut into cook, stirring often, until rosé is absorbed,
Ratatouille
1/2 -inch pieces (about 3 1/2 cups) about 2 minutes. Return reserved egg-
ACTIVE 1 HR 35 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 5 MIN
2 medium-size (8-oz.) yellow onions, plant mixture to skillet; cook over medium,
SERVES 6
cut into 1/2 -inch pieces (about 2 2/3 stirring often to prevent sticking, until fla-
cups) vors meld and mixture is creamy but tex-
Rebekah Peppler’s ratatouille relies on a
simple technique for a richly flavorful, 2 medium-size (8-oz.) red bell tured, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from
creamy-but-textured dish: cooking each peppers, cut into 1/2 -inch pieces heat. Drizzle ratatouille with premium
(about 2 1/2 cups) olive oil. Let cool to room temperature,
vegetable separately. After just a few min-
utes in the pan, the vegetables release 4 medium garlic cloves, finely about 30 minutes. Season with additional
chopped (about 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp.) salt to taste. Remove and discard basil
water, deepen in flavor, and become just
tender enough to begin to break down. 3 small beefsteak tomatoes or sprigs. Serve warm or at room tempera-
Finishing the stew with a generous portion heirloom tomatoes (about 1 lb.), cut ture with a drizzle of premium olive oil
into 1/2 -inch pieces (about 2 1/2 cups)
of rosé melds the flavors together. over each serving, if desired. —REBEKAH
6 to 8 (4-inch) basil sprigs, to taste PEPPLER, PARIS
2 medium (1-lb.) eggplants, cut into Pinch of crushed red pepper
1/2 -inch pieces (about 11 cups) MAKE AHEAD Ratatouille may be stored in
(optional)
an airtight container in refrigerator up to
2 1/2 tsp. fine sea salt (such as La 1/4 cup rosé
3 days.
Baleine), divided, plus more to taste 3 Tbsp. premium extra-virgin olive oil
3/4 cup mild extra-virgin olive oil, (such as Laudemio), plus more if WINE Lively Languedoc rosé: 2021 Gérard
divided, plus more as needed desired Bertrand Côte des Roses

AUGUST 2022 29
 TASTES LIKE TR ADITION
IN THE MAKING.

M A D E W I T H M I L K F R O M G R A S S - F E D C O W S T H AT
G R A Z E O N T H E L U S H PA S T U R E S O F I R E L A N D.
 HANDBOOK THE TECHNIQUE

Boiling Point A Southern-style

shrimp feast offers plenty to savor.
FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: MARY CLAYTON CARL

produced by MARY-FRANCES HECK photography by CHRISTOPHER TESTANI AUGUST 2022 31

HANDBOOK

COOK
THE
SHRIMP BOIL COVER

LIKE “BARBECUE,” “shrimp boil” is

both a noun and a verb, a regional
dish cooked in tall pots over pro-
pane flames from the mid-Atlantic
region all the way down to the Gulf of
Mexico. I grew up in North Carolina
obsessed with peel-and-eat shrimp,
especially those fished out of pots of
Frogmore stew in the South Carolina
Lowcountry and those cooked and
spiced like Maryland crab farther 1 2
north. Now, I live in the Deep South, MAKE THE CAJUN SEASONING BUTTER BOIL THE COOKING LIQUOR
where my shrimp boil has taken on a Infuse butter with lemon zest, Cajun seasoning or Bring water, wine, clam juice, onion, garlic
slight Cajun accent. It still bobs with Old Bay, garlic, hot sauce, and salt. Cover to keep heads, quartered lemons, bay leaves, thyme,
corn and potatoes, but now, the Italian warm until ready to toss with finished boil. and salt to a boil. Stir in crab boil packets.

sausage is andouille, the Old Bay spice

mix is sometimes Zatarain’s, and the
wild shrimp is always sweet, plump,
and scooped from the Gulf.
While all of those ingredients are
essential, the real flavor from a boil
comes from a potent cooking liquor.
You could call it a court-bouillon, as
codified in Larousse Gastronomique,
and you wouldn’t be wrong. But that
sounds a little fussy for a tradition
that has roots in kettle cooking over
an open fire by the ocean. My broth
takes its aromatic flavors from alli-
ums, lemon, and spices. A bottle each
of white wine and clam juice add heft,
and the boil slowly gathers flavor and 3 4
then picks up steam like a locomotive
BOIL VEGETABLES, SAUSAGE & SHRIMP LIFT THE STRAINER
running down the track. Place a fitted strainer inside the stockpot with Carefully lift strainer from pot, letting liquid
I recommend using large shrimp in cooking liquor. Cook in stages: first potatoes, drain back into pot. Discard the cooking liquor,
the shell, which helps prevent over- then corn and sausage, then shrimp. aromatics, and crab boil packets.
cooking and imparts its own flavor to
both the shrimp and broth. Timing is
key: Add dense ingredients like pota-
toes and corn first, then sausage, then
shrimp. Customize the flavors to your
taste, including the final seasoning.
Lately, I’ve taken my cues from Trong
Nguyen, chef-owner of Houston’s
Crawfish & Noodles, who finishes his
boiled ingredients in a garlic spice
butter with a splash of the broth.
What else? Line your table with
newspaper, and serve the shrimp,
sausage, potatoes, and corn splayed
out on the table with plenty of paper
towels and condiments like hot
sauce, cocktail sauce, and lemon 5 6
wedges. This is deeply satisfying food
POUR SEASONED BUTTER OVER BOIL TOSS THE BOIL TO COAT
meant to be eaten with your hands
Transfer shrimp boil (potatoes, corn, sausage, Toss the butter and shrimp boil to thoroughly
and in the company of others. and shrimp) to a large heatproof bowl, and add coat and season. Arrange buttered shrimp boil
—HUNTER LEWIS reserved Cajun seasoning butter. on a platter or covered table. Garnish and serve.

32 AUGUST 2022
 COCKTAIL SAUCE
Stir together 1
(8-ounce) jar
cocktail sauce, 2
tablespoons pre-
pared horserad-
ish, 2 teaspoons
fresh lemon juice,
and 1/2 teaspoon
hot sauce (such
as Tabasco) in a
small bowl. Store,
covered, in refrig-
erator up to 5 days.
Grate fresh horse-
radish on top for
serving, if you like.

A Proper Shrimp Boil 2 (3-oz.) pkg. boil-in-bag crawfish, 3. Add potatoes to strainer in pot; cover
shrimp, and crab boil (such as and cook 5 minutes. Stir in corn and sau-
ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 30 MIN
Zatarain’s) or 1/4 cup Old Bay sages; cover and cook until a thermome-
SERVES 8 seasoning ter inserted in thickest portion of sausage
2 lb. small yellow, red, or gold registers 155°F (or until heated through if
I cook my shrimp boils outside in a large
potatoes using smoked sausages), about 10 min-
pot (with a strainer insert) set over a pro-
8 (8-oz.) shucked ears fresh corn, utes. Stir in shrimp; cook, uncovered, until
pane burner (available at bayouclassic
halved crosswise shrimp are pink, opaque, and cooked
.com). You can also divide the ingredients
3 lb. fresh or smoked sausages (such through, 2 to 4 minutes.
between two stockpots and cook the boil
as Italian sausage, bratwurst, or
inside on your stove. Prep the ingredients andouille) (about 8 [6-oz.] sausages 4. Lift strainer from pot, letting liquid
in advance so you can tend the pot and or 16 [3-oz.] sausages) (see Note) strain back into pot, and transfer shrimp
customize the seasonings to your taste. boil mixture (potatoes, corn, sausage, and
4 lb. unpeeled raw large wild shrimp
shrimp) to a large heatproof bowl; discard
2 lemons Cocktail Sauce (recipe above), for
onion, garlic, bay leaves, thyme, lemons,
serving
6 Tbsp. unsalted butter (3 oz.) crab boil packets, and strained liquid
Whole-grain mustard, for serving
1 Tbsp. Cajun seasoning or Old Bay inside pot. Add reserved butter mixture to
seasoning, plus more for serving shrimp boil mixture; toss to coat. (If you
1. Grate zest from 1 lemon to measure
don’t have a large enough bowl, you can
2 garlic cloves, minced (about 2 tsp.) 2 teaspoons. Set grated zest aside. Cut
do this step in batches, tossing half of the
5 Tbsp. plus 1/8 tsp. fine sea salt, zested lemon and remaining lemon into
shrimp boil with half of the butter mixture
divided quarters; set aside. Melt butter in a small
at a time.) Arrange coated shrimp boil on a
Hot sauce (such as Tabasco), to taste saucepan over low. Stir in Cajun season-
platter or a covered table. Season with
ing, minced garlic, 1/8 teaspoon salt, hot
11 qt. water (44 cups) additional Cajun seasoning or Old Bay, if
sauce to taste, and reserved lemon zest.
1 (750-ml.) bottle dry unoaked white desired. Serve with cocktail sauce and
Remove from heat; cover to keep warm.
wine (such as Pinot Grigio) mustard, if desired. —HUNTER LEWIS
1 (8-oz.) bottle clam juice (such as 2. Place a 24-quart pot on an outdoor pro-
DRINK Light-bodied Provençal rosé: 2021
Bar Harbor) pane burner. Add 11 quarts water, wine,
Commanderie de Peyrassol Les
clam juice, onion, garlic heads, bay
1 large yellow onion (about 12 oz.), Commandeurs, or crisp, lemony pilsner:
leaves, thyme, quartered lemons, and
quartered lengthwise, root intact Firestone Walker Pivo
remaining 5 tablespoons salt to pot; cover
2 garlic heads, halved crosswise
and bring to a boil over high flame. Stir in NOTE For a classic Cajun flavor, choose an
8 dried bay leaves crab boil packets; cover and cook 10 min- andouille sausage, such as North Country
1 Tbsp. dried thyme utes. Place a fitted strainer inside pot. Smokehouse, available at Whole Foods.

AUGUST 2022 33
HANDBOOK

CHEF-INSPIRED

Summer Stunners From fresh and

fruity to cheesy and chewy, these
chef-inspired dishes belong on your
dinner table this season.

FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN

34 AUGUST 2022 photography by GREG DUPREE

Peach Salad
TOTAL 15 MIN; SERVES 4

Spicy chiles and sweet peaches come

together in this simple, summery salad
perfect for backyard parties. Lemon vine-
gar and manuka honey lend each bite a
sweet-tart zing and silky texture, amplify-
ing the juiciness of fresh peaches. Top a
generous serving with grilled chicken or
shrimp for a hearty main course.

2/3 cup lemon vinegar (such as O Citrus

Champagne Vinegar) (see Note)
1/3 cup manuka honey
1 tsp. kosher salt
1 1/2 lb. fresh peaches (such as Flavorich
or July Prince) (about 4 medium
peaches)
1/2 cup blanched raw peanuts (about
2 3/4 oz.), toasted
1 to 2 (1/2 -oz.) fresh Holland finger,
cayenne, or red Fresno chiles (to
taste), seeded if desired, and thinly
sliced (about 3 Tbsp. per chile)
1/4 cup packed fresh basil leaves (such
as Thai, sweet Italian, or African
blue basil), larger leaves torn in half
1 tsp. flaky sea salt (such as Maldon)

1. Whisk together vinegar, honey, and

kosher salt in a large bowl; set aside.
2. Cut peaches in half lengthwise; remove
and discard pits. Slice peaches into 1-inch
wedges; cut each wedge in half crosswise.
3. Add peaches, peanuts, and chiles to
vinaigrette in bowl; toss well to combine
and evenly coat. Gently fold in basil.
Arrange salad on a platter; sprinkle with
flaky salt. —BRANDON CHAVANNES, THE
BETTY, ATLANTA

NOTE Lemon vinegar is available online at

ooliveoil.com.

AUGUST 2022 35
HANDBOOK

36 AUGUST 2022
 Vaghareli Corn Flautas with juice, ginger, jalapeño, salt, and remaining
Chutney Crema avocado half in a blender. Process until
TOTAL 1 HR 15 MIN; SERVES 4 completely smooth, about 2 minutes.
Cover and chill until ready to serve, up to
For this Indian-inspired twist on Mexican 2 hours.
flautas, Hetal Vasavada uses vaghar—an
2. Make the vaghareli makai: Heat 2
Indian technique of tempering spices in
tablespoons oil in a large skillet over
hot oil to release their flavors—to make
medium-high. Add black mustard seeds.
vaghareli makai (corn). The spiced kernels
are then combined with mild cheese, Once they start to sputter, reduce heat to
rolled up in tortillas, and deep-fried. Serve low; add curry leaves, cumin, coriander,
flautas piled high with colorful garnishes cayenne, and turmeric; cook, stirring con-
alongside a ginger-lime avocado crema for stantly, 10 seconds. Add corn; increase
a vibrant summer entertaining staple. heat to medium, and cook, stirring often,
until corn is tender, about 6 minutes. Add
CHUTNEY CREMA garlic and ginger; cook, stirring constantly,
1 (6-oz.) avocado, halved, pitted, and until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in lime
peeled juice, salt, and black pepper. Remove from
2 cups packed fresh cilantro leaves heat. Transfer mixture to a large bowl; let
(about 2 oz.) cool 3 minutes. Stir in shredded cheese
1/2 cup packed fresh mint leaves until combined. Set aside.
1/2 cup crema or sour cream 3. Place tortillas on a microwavable
1/2 cup water plate, and cover with a damp paper
3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice (from 2 limes) towel. Microwave on high until tortillas
1 (1/2 -inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled are warm and pliable, about 45 seconds.
1 small (1-oz.) fresh jalapeño, Working with 1 tortilla at a time and
stemmed and, if desired, seeded keeping remaining tortillas covered with
1 tsp. kosher salt damp paper towel, place 3 tablespoons
corn-cheese mixture on center of 1 tor-
VAGHARELI MAKAI
tilla. Tightly roll into a cigar shape, and
1/2 cup plus 2 Tbsp. canola oil, divided secure with a wooden toothpick. Repeat
1/2 tsp. black mustard seeds (see Note) process with remaining tortillas and
10 fresh curry leaves (see Note) corn-cheese mixture.
3/4 tsp. ground cumin 4. Heat remaining 1/2 cup oil in a 12-inch
3/4 tsp. ground coriander nonstick skillet over medium-high. Work-
3/4 tsp. cayenne pepper ing in about 3 batches, gently place filled
1/2 tsp. ground turmeric tortillas, seam side down, in skillet. (Be
1 1/2 cups fresh corn kernels (about 8 sure not to crowd the skillet.) Reduce heat
oz.) (from 2 [7-oz.] ears) to medium, and fry until golden brown, 5
3 garlic cloves, minced (about 1 Tbsp.) to 6 minutes per batch, using tongs to
FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN

1 Tbsp. minced fresh ginger (from 1 turn flautas often so they cook evenly.
[2-inch] piece peeled ginger) Transfer flautas to a wire rack to drain.
1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. fresh lime juice Remove and discard any solids from oil in
(from 2 limes) skillet. Repeat process with remaining
1/2 tsp. kosher salt filled tortillas.
1/4 tsp. black pepper 5. Remove wooden picks from flautas.
8 oz. queso Oaxaca or mozzarella Arrange on a platter; drizzle with chutney
cheese, shredded (about 2 cups) crema, and top with desired toppings.
12 (5- to 6-inch) corn tortillas —HETAL VASAVADA, MILK & CARDAMOM
Optional toppings: Shredded MAKE AHEAD Chutney crema can be
iceberg lettuce, chopped red
onions, chopped tomatoes, stored in an airtight container in
chopped fresh cilantro, Cotija refrigerator up to 2 hours.
cheese, and lime wedges
WINE Lightly oaky California Chardonnay:
2021 Fess Parker Santa Barbara County
1. Make the chutney crema: Reserve 1
avocado half for another use. Combine NOTE Find black mustard seeds and curry
cilantro, mint, crema, 1/2 cup water, lime leaves at foodsofnations.com.

photography by CHRISTOPHER TESTANI AUGUST 2022 37

HANDBOOK

Pão de Queijo 1. Process cheese and eggs in a food pro- dough is chilled and slightly stiffened, at
ACTIVE 35 MIN; TOTAL 3 HR 30 MIN cessor until a smooth paste forms, about least 2 hours or up to 12 hours.
SERVES 14
1 minute, stopping to scrape down sides 6. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line 3 large
of bowl as needed. rimmed baking sheets with parchment
Pão de queijo is a classic Brazilian snack 2. Combine tapioca flour and salt in bowl paper, or oil the baking sheets well.
and breakfast food. Light and airy, with a of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle 7. Lightly coat your hands with oil (or flour
delightful chew and savory, cheesy flavor, attachment. Set aside. them with tapioca flour). Pinch off walnut-
each puff has a lightly crispy exterior and
a tender, bubbly center. Felipe Donnelly’s 3. Combine oil, milk, and 1/2 cup water in a size pieces (about 1 tablespoon) of dough;
version is a must-have at his New York small saucepan, and bring to a boil over roll between your palms into balls. Place
City restaurant Comodo. It’s the perfect medium-high. Immediately pour oil mixture 16 to 18 pão de queijo on each prepared
two-bite snack (or even slider bun) with into tapioca mixture in stand mixer, all at baking sheet 1 1/2 to 2 inches apart.
hints of cayenne and nutmeg. once, and turn the mixer on at low speed. 8. Bake in preheated oven, 1 baking sheet
Beat until dough is smooth and starch is at a time, until rolls puff up and are light
5 oz. Parmesan or pecorino Romano completely incorporated, about 2 min- golden brown, about 20 minutes per batch,
cheese, grated (about 2 cups) utes. (There will be some oil left in bottom rotating baking sheet from front to back
2 large eggs of bowl.) halfway through bake time. Remove from
2 cups tapioca flour (about 8 1/2 oz.) oven; place pão de queijo in a basket lined
4. Turn stand mixer off. Add cheese mix-
(see Note) or manioc starch with a napkin. Serve immediately, while
ture, nutmeg, cayenne, and black pepper
2 tsp. kosher salt they are at their warmest and chewiest.
to mixture in stand mixer. Beat mixture on
1/2 cup plus 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive low speed until it turns pale yellow, about —FELIPE DONNELLY, COMODO, NEW YORK CITY
oil, plus more for oiling and shaping
10 minutes. (You are trying to develop the MAKE AHEAD Dough balls can frozen,
1/2 cup whole milk structure of the dough by kneading it covered with plastic wrap, on parchment
1/2 cup water slowly.) (Dough should feel a bit sticky paper–lined baking sheets. Increase bake
Pinch of ground nutmeg and moist.) time by 5 minutes if baking from frozen.
Pinch of cayenne pepper 5. Transfer dough to a medium bowl; cover NOTE Tapioca flour can be found at
Pinch of black pepper with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until bobsredmill.com.

38 AUGUST 2022
HANDBOOK

F&W COOKS

Super Sauces These four fresh,

savory formulas start off as
marinades and easily transform
into finishing sauces, adding big
flavor to every summer meal.
MY SECRET FOR FLAVOR-FILLED MEALS any
night of the week? Marinades that do double
duty as dressings and sauces.
Using a few fresh ingredients and some
pantry staples that pack a punch, I whisk a
simple marinade together and let my protein
of choice get tender and juicy while I light
the grill or preheat the oven. To make the
marinade go the extra mile, I make sure to
set some of it aside so I can amp it up with
some fresh herbs and thin it to a drizzle with
some citrus juice—or leave it simply as is—to
use as a finishing sauce that adds effortless
pizzazz to my meal.
These are back-pocket recipes to learn and
lean on for weeknight cooking that feels spe-
cial enough for a dinner party. They’re also
easily adaptable to your favorite cut of meat or
fish or for your favorite produce from the mar-
ket, so get creative and mix and match your
favorite flavors with whatever you have on
hand. —KELSEY YOUNGMAN

40 AUGUST 2022 photography by CHRISTOPHER TESTANI

 Maple and Grainy Mustard
Sauce with Chicken Thighs and
Green Salad
ACTIVE 40 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 40 MIN
SERVES 4

A pinch of ground allspice adds interest to

this not-too-sweet maple-and-mustard
marinade. Inspired by chef Brendan
Collins, the simple combination of maple
syrup, grainy and Dijon mustards, and all-
spice gives chicken thighs a lacquered
shine and deep flavor either on the grill or
in the oven.

1/2 cup pure maple syrup

1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup Dijon mustard (such as Maille)
2 Tbsp. whole-grain mustard
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/4 tsp. ground allspice
3 lb. bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
(about 8 thighs)
Green salad, for serving

1. Whisk together maple syrup, oil, mus-

tards, salt, and allspice in a small bowl.
Measure 1/2 cup sauce into a large ziplock
plastic bag. Cover and store remaining
sauce in bowl (about 1/2 cup) in refrigera-
tor until ready to use or up to 5 days. Add
chicken to sauce in ziplock bag; seal bag,
and turn to coat chicken in sauce. Let
marinate in refrigerator at least 1 hour or
up to 24 hours.
2. Preheat a gas grill to high (450°F to
500°F) on one side. Remove chicken
thighs from marinade; discard marinade.
Place chicken on oiled grates over unlit
side of grill. Grill, covered, turning occa-
sionally, until chicken is browned and a
thermometer inserted in thickest portion
FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN

of meat registers 165°F, about 30 min-

utes. Transfer chicken to a platter. Serve
alongside reserved 1/2 cup sauce and a
green salad. —KELSEY YOUNGMAN
MAKE AHEAD Sauce may be stored in
an airtight container in refrigerator up to
5 days.
WINE Full-bodied Washington
Chardonnay: 2020 Chateau Ste. Michelle
Indian Wells
NOTE Alternatively, to bake the chicken:
Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil, and
grease with oil. Arrange marinated chicken
thighs, skin side up, on prepared baking
sheet. Bake at 400°F until chicken is
browned and a thermometer inserted in
thickest portion of meat registers 165°F,
20 to 25 minutes.

AUGUST 2022 41
HANDBOOK
Herby Yogurt Sauce with Grilled 1 1/2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt
Lamb Chops and Cucumber- 1 Tbsp. minced shallot (from 1 shallot)
Couscous Salad 2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
ACTIVE 15 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 30 MIN 1 tsp. grated lemon zest, plus 1 Tbsp.
SERVES 4 fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon),
divided
Plain yogurt is an excellent base for a mar- 24 baby rib lamb chops (about 3 oz.
inade. It slowly tenderizes meat, rendering each)
it juicy but never mealy or tough, and Black pepper, to taste
leaves a pleasantly tangy flavor behind. A
1 cup packed mixed fresh tender
simple blend of yogurt, shallots, salt, and herbs (such as parsley, dill, and
lemon is a perfect match for lamb’s rich- mint leaves), plus more for serving
ness. Set aside a portion of the yogurt to
Cooked couscous and sliced
puree with tender green herbs and lemon cucumbers, for serving
juice for a quick finishing sauce after the
lamb is done. 1. Stir together yogurt, shallot, salt, and
lemon zest in a medium bowl. Measure 1
cup of the mixture into a large ziplock
plastic bag. Cover and refrigerate remain-
ing 1/2 cup yogurt mixture until ready to
use. Add lamb chops to ziplock bag; seal
bag, and turn to coat lamb in sauce. Let
marinate in refrigerator at least 2 hours or
up to 24 hours.
2. Preheat grill to high (450°F to 500°F).
Scrape off excess marinade from lamb,
and discard remaining marinade in bag.
Sprinkle chops evenly with salt and pep-
per to taste. Arrange chops on oiled grill
grates; grill, covered, turning once or
twice, until browned and a thermometer
inserted in thickest portion of meat reg-
isters 135°F for medium-rare, about 6
minutes, or to desired degree of done-
ness. Transfer chops to a platter; let rest
5 minutes.
3. Transfer reserved yogurt mixture to a
food processor. Add fresh herbs and
lemon juice; pulse until smooth, about 20
pulses. Serve chops alongside sauce,
cooked couscous, cucumbers, and addi-
tional herbs. —KELSEY YOUNGMAN
MAKE AHEAD Sauce may be kept in an air-
tight container in refrigerator up to 3 days.
WINE Savory Rhône-style red: 2019 Hahn
GSM
NOTE Alternatively, to broil the lamb:
Arrange marinated lamb on a greased
baking sheet. Broil 41/2 inches from heat
source until browned and no longer pink
on the inside, about 6 minutes, flipping
chops halfway through broiling time.

42 AUGUST 2022
 GET ALMOST 30 MINUTES
MORE RESTFUL SLEEP PER NIGHT*
Because every great day starts the night before. The 360® smart bed senses your movement and
automatically adjusts, to help keep you both comfortable all night. It’s temperature balancing so you
stay cool.† And it’s so smart, it knows exactly how long, how well and when you slept.

We take care of the science, all you have to do is sleep.

SleepIQ Score
®

Adjustable comfort Automatically senses Personalized insights 15-Year Limited 100-Night

on each side and responds to you for even better sleep Warranty ‡ Trial §

REQUEST SPECIAL OFFERS | 1-877-557-6801 | sleepnumber.com/food

*Based on average SleepIQ® data from 8/1/21 - 2/28/22 of sleepers who engaged with their Sleep Number® setting, SleepIQ® data and FlexFit™ smart adjustable base received up to 170 hours more restful sleep per year. †Available on select models. ‡Limited warranty
available at sleepnumber.com. §Restrictions and exclusions apply. Does not apply to adjustable bases, upholstered furniture, closeout/clearance or demo/floor model purchases or mattresses already exchanged under another In-Home Trial period. You pay return shipping.
Refunds will be made to the original method of payment less original shipping/delivery fees. Visit sleepnumber.com for complete details. SLEEP NUMBER, SLEEPIQ, SLEEP NUMBER 360, the Double Arrow Design, and SELECT COMFORT are registered trademarks of
Sleep Number Corporation. ©2022 Sleep Number Corporation
HANDBOOK
Pomegranate-Tahini Sauce with 1 medium (8-oz.) bell pepper, cut into 3. Preheat grill to medium-high (400°F to
Halloumi-and-Vegetable 1-inch pieces (about 1 1/2 cups) 450°F). Place skewers on lightly oiled
Skewers 1 small (7-oz.) red onion, cut into 10 grates; grill, covered, turning occasionally,
(1/2 -inch-thick) wedges until tender and lightly charred, 8 to 10
ACTIVE 25 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 5 MIN
1 cup cherry tomatoes minutes. Transfer to a platter with rice.
SERVES 4
1 lb. halloumi cheese, cut into 1-inch 4. Stir up to remaining 5 tablespoons
Pomegranate molasses is the secret ingre- cubes orange juice into reserved 1/2 cup sauce as
dient in this simple marinade that also Cooked white rice and chopped needed to reach desired consistency.
becomes a finishing drizzle. Its punchy, fresh cilantro, for serving Drizzle over vegetable skewers and rice;
sweet, earthy flavor adds long-cooked sprinkle with cilantro. Serve immediately.
depth of flavor in just 30 minutes of mari- 1. Place 10 (8-inch) wooden skewers in a
—KELSEY YOUNGMAN
nation, while fresh orange juice and pleas- large bowl or sealed bag with water, and
let soak 20 minutes; remove from water. MAKE AHEAD Sauce can be refrigerated in
antly bitter tahini round out the texture and
an airtight container up to 3 days.
sweet-savory finish of the sauce. Be sure 2. Whisk together tahini, oil, 5 tablespoons
to soak wooden skewers in water before orange juice, pomegranate molasses, salt, WINE Tart, minerally Greek white: 2020
threading on the cheese and vegetables to and black pepper in a medium bowl until Gai’a Monograph Assyrtiko
prevent flare-ups while grilling or broiling. emulsified and smooth. Measure 1/2 cup NOTE Alternatively, to broil the skewers:
sauce into a small bowl; cover and store in
Cover ends of skewers with aluminum foil
1/2 cup tahini, well stirred refrigerator until ready to use or up to 5
to prevent burning. Arrange skewers on a
6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil days. Thread bell pepper, onion, toma-
greased baking sheet. Broil 41/2 inches
toes, and halloumi evenly onto wooden
10 Tbsp. fresh orange juice (from 2 from heat source until browned, about 8
oranges), as needed, divided skewers. Place skewers on a large baking
minutes, flipping skewers halfway through
sheet, and brush evenly with remaining
2 Tbsp. pomegranate molasses broiling time.
sauce (about 1/2 cup) in medium bowl. Let
1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt stand at room temperature at least 30 NOTE Pomegranate molasses can be
1/2 tsp. black pepper minutes or up to 1 hour. found at foodsofnations.com.

44 AUGUST 2022
 HANDBOOK
Roasted Red Sauce with Grilled
Halibut and Summer Squash
ACTIVE 15 MIN; TOTAL 35 MIN
SERVES 4

A generous five cloves of garlic give this

sweet roasted red bell pepper marinade
and sauce a mildly spicy bite, alongside
punchy sherry vinegar and mellowing,
sweet honey. It’s a great marinade for mild
white fish, infusing fillets with flavor with-
out making them tough. Sop up extra
sauce with crusty bread, and serve with
juicy grilled squash.

1 (16-oz.) jar roasted red bell

peppers, drained
5 garlic cloves
1 Tbsp. sherry vinegar
2 tsp. honey
1 tsp. kosher salt
1/4 tsp. black pepper
1/2 cup olive oil
4 (6-oz.) skin-on halibut fillets
Grilled summer squash, fresh
parsley leaves, and crusty bread,
for serving

1. Process bell peppers, garlic, vinegar,

honey, salt, and black pepper in a food
processor or blender until smooth, about
45 seconds. Transfer mixture to a bowl;
whisk in oil. Measure 1 cup sauce into a
large ziplock plastic bag; add halibut fil-
lets. Seal bag; turn to coat fillets in sauce.
Let marinate in refrigerator 20 minutes.
Reserve remaining sauce for serving.
2. Preheat a grill to medium-high (400°F
to 450°F). Remove halibut from marinade,
scraping off excess. Discard remaining
marinade. Arrange fillets on oiled grill
grates; grill, covered, until fish flakes
easily and is just cooked through, 4 to 5
minutes per side. Transfer fillets to serv-
ing plates or a large platter. Serve along-
side grilled summer squash, parsley,
crusty bread, and reserved sauce.
—KELSEY YOUNGMAN

MAKE AHEAD Sauce may be stored in

an airtight container in refrigerator up to
3 days.
WINE Full-bodied California rosé: 2020
Marietta Cellars OVR Old Vine Rosé
NOTE Alternatively, to broil the fish:
Arrange marinated fish fillets, skin side
down, on a greased baking sheet. Broil
41/2 inches from heat source until fish
flakes easily and is just cooked through,
6 to 8 minutes.

AUGUST 2022 45
 EASY BAKES
HANDBOOK

Ice Cream Dreams

Indulge in sweet slices of ice cream cake
straight from the freezer.
THIS CHOCOLATE-RASPBERRY ICE CREAM CAKE (p. 48) is my answer to summer days when I want to
serve a beautiful cake but it’s too hot to turn on the oven. It’s creamy, it’s dreamy, and it’s so simple to
make. Crushed cookies, fresh raspberries, and layers of sorbet and ice cream transform into a gorgeous
marbled layer cake in about 15 minutes—no frosting required. Those fresh raspberries sink into the
milky, sweet layers of vanilla ice cream, adding a tart flavor and pops of color to the cake, and crunchy
chocolate cookie layers are the perfect sweet and salty counterpoint, adding satisfying texture and a hint
of bittersweet flavor. After a deep chill in the freezer, the cake slices beautifully, revealing deep pink,
creamy white, and rich dark-chocolate cookie swirls. Bonus: The recipe doubles easily, if I’m making
cake for a crowd—or if I just want more for myself. —ANNA THEOKTISTO

FOOD STYLING: CHELSEA ZIMMER; PROP STYLING: THOM DRIVER

46 AUGUST 2022 photography by VICTOR PROTASIO

 TO A MOST
DELICIOUS PAIRING

WIND YACHTS STAR PLUS YACHTS

Discover the Moorish heritage of Spain in paella, the terroir of Tuscany in delicious prosciutto, and the wild
celebration of flavor in Alaskan king crab. No matter what destination calls your name, the local culture is
deliciously reflected in the meals you’ll enjoy on Windstar, the Official Cruise Line of the James Beard
Foundation. Fresh, local ingredients – often selected by our yacht’s chef on a trip to explore the local market –
go into every perfectly presented dish. Windstar knows the way to private yacht style cruising with only
148 to 342 guests – 180 degrees from ordinary.

WINDSTARCRUISES.COM
For reservations, call your Travel Advisor or Windstar Cruises at 855-703-0313
HANDBOOK
Chocolate-Raspberry 5. Remove ice cream cake from freezer;
Icebox Cake unwrap and let stand at room tempera-
ture 5 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk
TOTAL 15 MIN, PLUS 4 HR FREEZING
together cream and powdered sugar in a
SERVES 8
medium bowl until stiff peaks form, about
Need a way to cool down during the hot- 2 minutes.
test month of the year? This crave-worthy 6. Lift ice cream cake out of loaf pan using
ice cream cake is the perfect solution. parchment paper overhang as handles,
Raspberry sorbet adds the perfect amount and invert onto a large plate or platter.
of tartness when combined with creamy Dollop whipped cream over top of cake.
vanilla ice cream, and the layer of crunchy Garnish with additional fresh raspberries.
cookie crumbs makes this cake a total Slice and serve. —ANNA THEOKTISTO
dream. Leave your ice cream at room tem-
MAKE AHEAD Cake can be frozen up to 3
perature for about 10 minutes to soften
weeks. Top with whipped cream just
before using.
before serving.
Cooking spray NOTE This recipe easily doubles to serve
2 pt. vanilla ice cream, softened 16. Make the cake in a 9-inch square pan,
and double the ingredients.
1 pt. raspberry sorbet, softened
1 (9-oz.) pkg. chocolate wafer
cookies (such as Nabisco Famous
Chocolate Wafers), crushed (about
2 1/2 cups)
2 cups fresh raspberries (about
9 oz.), plus more for garnish
1 cup heavy cream
3 Tbsp. powdered sugar

1. Lightly coat a 9- x 5-inch loaf pan with

cooking spray. Line with parchment paper,
making sure all sides are fully covered and
leaving a 2-inch overhang on all sides.
2. Fold softened ice cream and sorbet
together in a large bowl until sorbet is just
streaked through ice cream but not quite
swirled, 2 to 3 folds.
3. Sprinkle 1/2 cup crushed cookies into
bottom of prepared loaf pan. Spread 1 1/2
cups ice cream mixture over crushed
cookies. Scatter 1/2 cup fresh raspberries
over top, gently pressing into ice cream
mixture. Repeat layers 3 times, ending
with remaining 1/2 cup crushed cookies.
4. Wrap loaf pan tightly with plastic wrap,
and freeze until cake is firm, at least 4
hours or up to 24 hours.

48 AUGUST 2022
 PROMOTION

NEWS, UPDATES, EVENTS, AND MORE FROM FOOD & WINE

THE BROADMOOR: CELEBRATING OVER

100 YEARS OF CULINARY EXCELLENCE
For over 100 years, The Broadmoor has been on the
cutting edge of creative cuisine. Not just a lauded resort,
it's truly a culinary destination from an authentic Italian
experience and regional cuisine of the Americas to a
lively English pub.
Broadmoor.com

BYE-BYE BORING BREAKFAST

Start the day with HORMEL® BLACK LABEL™ Egg Bites and
BREAKFAST COMBOS™ products, ready in 60 seconds or less.
Blacklabelbacon.com

ON-SALE NOW! THE FAMILY REUNION

2ND ANNUAL EVENT WITH KWAME ONWUACHI
AUGUST 18-21, 2022
In 2021, Salamander Hotels & Resorts and Kwame Onwuachi
unveiled an unparalleled, culinary, and cultural event: The
Family Reunion, a multi-day celebration of diversity in the
hospitality community featuring world-class chefs, expert
sommeliers, and industry leaders. Its core mission: to
nurture racial and ethnic diversity for both current and
next-generation hospitality professionals.
Tickets available now at salamanderhotels.com/familyreunion
 BOTTLE SERVICE
Beaujolais Brilliance
Gamay runs the gamut
from casual to complex.
By Ray Isle
FOOD STYLING: CHELSEA ZIMMER; PROP STYLING: LYDIA PURSELL

produced by RAY ISLE photography by JENNIFER CAUSEY AUGUST 2022 51

BOTTLE SERVICE
E
VERYBODY’S A CRITIC. Back in 1395, Philip the Bold 2020 JEAN-MARC BURGAUD
banned the Gamay grape from Burgundy, proclaim- BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES LES
VIGNES DE LANTIGNIÉ ($20)
ing it low and crappy (well, technically, “très mau-
Jean-Marc Burgaud has the
vais et très desloyaus,” or evil and disloyal). For growers
majority of his vineyards in
in nearby Beaujolais, who were quite fond of Gamay, this the cru of Morgon, but he also
was a bit like when your older brother puts a Magic Marker farms about 10 acres of vines
sign on his bedroom door saying, “Come in here, and you surrounding a 12th-century
château in Lantignié, outside
die.” But Philip’s dismissal had its effect, and for centuries,
the cru area, for this cuvée. It’s
as red Burgundy garnered its nigh-unto-holy reputation, full of lively wild-strawberry and
Beaujolais was confined to being, you know, fun. pepper notes.
Fine. As far as I’m concerned, Mr. Philip I’m-So-Bold can
sit around all he wants in his castle, issuing proclamations 2020 THIBAULT LIGER-
and glowering at the walls. Personally, I’m pro-fun, and for BELAIR MOULIN-À-VENT LES
me, basic Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages wines are the VIEILLES VIGNES ($23)
ultimate summertime reds, perfect for picnics and pools, Deep raspberry notes and
great with a chill, vivid with red berry and spice flavors, a creamy texture mark this
refined cru Beaujolais, a blend
and—absolute truth—far more interesting than 90% of the of old-vine fruit from Thibault
dry rosés out there. Liger-Belair’s organically
Plus, cru Beaujolais, which comes from the ten top vil- farmed estate. He also makes
lages of the region, offers more still. These are complex reds several terrific single-parcel
wines, all worth tracking down.
that retain a touch of casualness even as they achieve re-
markable complexity and depth. But maybe Thibault Liger-
2019 CHÂTEAU DES JACQUES
Belair, who makes impressive wines in both Burgundy and MOULIN-À-VENT ($28)
Moulin-à-Vent in Beaujolais, sums it up best: “When I fin- The fortunes of this historic
ished my studies in 1996 in Beaujolais, I rented an old house estate were at a low ebb when
in the vineyards, and I saw how beautiful it was every morn- the Burgundy firm of Louis
ing when I opened the window. And I decided that land Jadot purchased it in 1996.
Since then, the wines have dras-
that beautiful couldn’t possibly produce bad wine.” tically improved; this polished
Gamay, with its vivid purple hue,
lingering berry flavors, and faint
BEAUJOLAIS TO BUY anise hints, is a case in point.

2020 DOMAINE LES 2020 TRÉNEL BEAUJOLAIS- 2020 CHÂTEAU THIVIN CÔTE
GRYPHÉES BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES ($19) DE BROUILLY ($32)
CUVÉE CENTENAIRE LES The négociant firm of Trénel, Côte de Brouilly’s vineyards
BALMES ($18) which was founded in 1928, cover the slopes of the long-
Though this earthy, peppery red produces both Burgundy and ago-volcanic Mont Brouilly
is labeled as simple Beaujolais, Beaujolais. But the standout within the larger Brouilly appel-
it comes from a small vineyard value of their portfolio is this lation, and Thivin is undoubt-
planted nearly a century ago. creamy and raspberry-rich edly the appellation’s greatest
There’s far more depth and com- Beaujolais-Villages, which uses producer. The 2020 is elegant
plexity here than the humble fruit sourced from 38 villages and minerally, with blue plum
designation would suggest. around the region. and cherry notes.

2020 DOMAINE DE LA 2019 CHÂTEAU DU MOULIN- 2018 DOMAINE RICHARD

MADONE BEAUJOLAIS- À-VENT MOULIN-À-VENT ($40) ROTTIERS MOULIN-À-VENT
VILLAGES LE PERRÉON ($15) ($35)
Fragrant and spicy, with cherry
Olivier and Bruno Bererd, and rhubarb flavors, this excel- Richard Rottiers is one of the
the brothers who farm the lent Moulin-à-Vent comes up-and-coming young talents
100-year-old vines used for this from a domaine named for the of Beaujolais, farming his small
light-bodied, bright, raspberry- 300-year-old stone windmill domaine in Moulin-à-Vent
scented wine, have to work by that gives the appellation its organically since 2012. The old
hand—their vineyards have name. Also look for the estate’s vines there make a rich, layered
such steep slopes that a tractor affordable Couvent des Thorins red, full of black cherry flavor,
would tumble off the hillsides. bottling–it’s superb, too. that’s impossible to resist.

AUGUST 2022 53
BOTTLE SERVICE

2020 GEORGES DUBOEUF

BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES ($11)
It’s impossible to think of
Beaujolais without thinking of
Georges Duboeuf, who started
the craze for Beaujolais Nou- 2019 CHÂTEAU DE LA CHAIZE
veau back in the 1980s. He BROUILLY ($23)
passed away in 2020, but his Brouilly, the southernmost and
widely available Beaujolais- largest cru in Beaujolais, tends
Villages continues: juicy, red- to make light, red-fruited, floral
berried, inarguably quaffable. wines, the perfect type of red
for when the weather is hot.
2020 ALEXANDRE BURGAUD This one, from an estate that’s
BEAUJOLAIS-LANTIGNIÉ ($25) been farmed by the same family
for the past 350 years, is a clas-
Although winemaker Alexandre
sic example.
Burgaud only got his start in
2013, he has rapidly become
a talent to follow in Beaujolais. 2020 DOMAINE DU CLOS DU
This spicy, blue-blackberry FIEF TRADITION JULIÉNAS
cuvée comes from a small ($23)
vineyard in the village of The granite hills of Juliénas
Lantignié, which is often cited make for spicy, dark cru Beau-
as deserving of cru status. jolais, in this instance laced
with light herbal notes. The Tête
2020 CHÂTEAU DE PIZAY family has been farming this
BEAUJOLAIS ($17) property for four generations;
their savory, nuanced wines are
Vineyards around this 14th-
benchmarks.
century château have been
producing wine since medieval
times. The property’s basic
Beaujolais is a superb value,
with fresh strawberry-cranberry
fruit and a soft texture. With a
light chill, it’s ideal for outdoor
summertime quaffing.

54 AUGUST 2022
BOTTLE SERVICE

C O C K TA I L H O U R

Just Add Fruit Catch the fleeting stone-fruit

season while you still can—in a glass.
By Hannah Selinger
FOOD STYLING: LAUREN MCANELLY; PROP STYLING: SUE MITCHELL

ONE WEEK: That’s how long it takes for my sour cherry tree more of that richness you’re looking for.”
to expend her energy. This year, when I’m done with the pies The perfect cocktail should be a delicate balance between
and the clafoutis, I’ll be roasting my fruit at 400°F until soft. A bright and sweet, says Jarhn Blutstein, beverage consultant at
quick pulse in the food processor and a pass through a sieve Mavericks Montauk. “A good drink is simple,” she says, and
yields the silkiest, most luscious reminder of stone-fruit season it should drive home the best qualities of the ingredients used.
that ever was. In this case, a good drink is the kind that puts fruit first.
Behold the roasted-fruit puree, the perfect way to extend Use this roast-and-puree technique for summer’s stone
stone-fruit season and a fantastic addition to a summer cock- fruits, and enjoy a slideshow of vibrantly colored drinks that
tail. Muddled fruit may appear on every menu from coast to concentrate and extend the fruits’ flavor. The gin fizz, a frothy
coast, but the quick flame of the oven delivers something that classic cocktail topped with egg white foam, gets a boost here
the blunt end of a muddler cannot. “The idea of roasting is from plum puree, while the edges of a julep soften into sum-
great because it really caramelizes all the sugars and brings mer around apricot and nectarine.
that to the forefront,” says Jena Ellenwood, a bartender and Although stone-fruit season is maddeningly short, these
cocktail educator based in Astoria, New York. “It gives you drinks give us a means to savor every last drop.

56 AUGUST 2022 photography by JACOB FOX & KELSEY HANSEN

Apricot-Nectarine Julep apricots, nectarines, and sugar on a
ACTIVE 15 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 5 MIN
large rimmed baking sheet until fully
coated; spread in an even layer. Roast
SERVES 1
in preheated oven until fruit is soft and
A puree of roasted apricots and nectar- juicy, about 20 minutes, stirring half-
ines brings out bourbon’s notes of way through roasting time. Let cool 5
vanilla and nutmeg, making for the ulti- minutes. Scrape fruit and any liquid on
mate late-summer cocktail. Pour some baking sheet into a food processor or
of the reserved puree on top of the blender; pulse until smooth, 5 to 8
crushed ice for a cocktail that almost pulses. Pour through a fine wire-mesh
resembles a Hawaiian shave ice. strainer into a medium bowl. Refriger-
ate, uncovered, until completely cool,
APRICOT-NECTARINE PUREE
about 20 minutes. (You should have
about 2 cups apricot-nectarine puree,
1 lb. fresh apricots, halved and enough for 8 cocktails.)
pitted
1 lb. fresh nectarines, halved and 2. Make the cocktail: Muddle mint
pitted leaves and 1/4 cup apricot-nectarine
1/3
puree in bottom of a julep cup. Add
cup granulated sugar
bourbon and crushed or pebbled ice to
COCKTAIL cover; stir until chilled, about 20 sec-
15 fresh mint leaves (about 1/4 onds. Fill cup with additional ice, add-
loosely packed cup) ing enough to form a small mound on
1/4 cup (2 oz.) bourbon top. Pour 2 to 4 tablespoons apricot-
nectarine puree over ice. Garnish with
Finely crushed or pebbled ice
a mint sprig, and serve with a short
1 mint sprig, for garnish
julep straw. —HANNAH SELINGER

1. Make the apricot-nectarine puree: TO PREPARE 8 COCKTAILS Muddle 2

Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss together cups loosely packed fresh mint leaves
and 2 cups apricot-nectarine puree in
a pitcher. Add 2 cups bourbon and
crushed or pebbled ice to cover, and
stir until chilled, about 20 seconds.
Serve drinks over ice, and garnish with
mint sprigs.
MAKE AHEAD Apricot-nectarine puree
may be stored in an airtight container
in refrigerator up to 1 week.

AUGUST 2022 57
 Plum Gin Fizz Sour-Cherry Mezcal Margarita 1 Tbsp. (1/2 oz.) orange liqueur (such
BOTTLE SERVICE

as Cointreau)
ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 55 MIN ACTIVE 15 MIN; TOTAL 45 MIN
SERVES 1 SERVES 1 Ice cubes
1 large (about 2 1/2 -inch) ice cube
This fruity gin fizz isn’t overly sweet, allow- This fruity spin on a margarita combines
ing the flavor of the pureed caramelized smoky mezcal, citrusy Cointreau, and 1. Make the sour cherry puree: Preheat
plums to shine. A botanical gin works well sweet-tart cherry puree in a vibrant red oven to 400°F. Toss together cherries and
with the fruit in this cocktail, adding her- drink perfect for late-summer sipping. sugar on a large rimmed baking sheet
baceous and fruity notes. To play up the Bright, pleasantly tart sour cherries are in until fully coated; spread in a single layer.
deep color of the plums, try Empress season for a limited window, so this sim- Roast in preheated oven until fruit is soft
1908, a royal purple–hued, botanical-style ple roasted puree is an easy way to pre- and juicy, about 10 minutes. Let cool 5
spirit. For a vegan version, in place of the serve their flavor. Try it on ice cream, too. minutes. Using a silicone spatula, scrape
egg white, substitute 3 tablespoons fruit and any juices on baking sheet into a
unsalted or low-sodium aquafaba. (Note SOUR CHERRY PUREE food processor or a blender; pulse until
that you won’t get quite as much foam.) smooth, 8 to 10 pulses. Pour through a
2 lb. fresh sour cherries, stemmed
and pitted fine wire-mesh strainer into a medium
PLUM PUREE 2/3
bowl. Discard solids. Refrigerate, uncov-
cup granulated sugar
ered, until completely cool, about 20 min-
2 lb. fresh plums, halved and pitted
COCKTAIL utes. (You should have about 2 cups sour
1/3 cup granulated sugar
Smoked coarse salt (such as cherry puree, enough for 10 cocktails.)
COCKTAIL Olsson’s Red Gum Smoked Salt) 2. Make the cocktail: If using the smoked
1/4 cup (2 oz.) gin (such as Empress (optional)
salt, sprinkle some on a small plate.
1908, The Botanist, or Hendrick’s 1/4 cup (2 oz.) mezcal joven espadín Lightly moisten rim of a rocks glass with
Midsummer Solstice) (such as Ilegal Joven) water; dip rim in smoked salt. Combine
1 large egg white mezcal, orange liqueur, and 3 table-
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice spoons sour cherry puree in a cocktail
Ice cubes shaker filled three-fourths full with ice.
1/4
Place lid on shaker; shake vigorously until
cup club soda
well combined, about 15 seconds. Strain
1 lavender sprig, for garnish
into a rocks glass with a large ice cube.
—HANNAH SELINGER
1. Make the plum puree: Preheat oven to
400°F. Toss together plums and sugar on TO PREPARE 10 COCKTAILS Combine 2 1/2
a large rimmed baking sheet until fully cups mezcal, 1 3/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons
coated; spread in a single layer. Roast in sour cherry puree, and 1/4 cup plus 2
preheated oven until fruit is soft and juicy, tablespoons orange liqueur in a large
about 10 minutes, stirring halfway pitcher filled with ice; stir until chilled. Pour
through roasting time. Let cool 5 minutes. into rocks glasses with large ice cubes
Scrape fruit and any liquid on baking (rimmed with smoked salt, if desired).
sheet into a food processor or blender; MAKE AHEAD Sour cherry puree may be
pulse until smooth, 5 to 8 pulses. Pour stored in an airtight container in
through a fine wire-mesh strainer into a refrigerator up to 1 week.
medium bowl, pressing puree using a rub-
ber spatula. (This may take about 10 min-
utes.) Discard pulp. Refrigerate,
uncovered, until completely cool, about
20 minutes. (You should have about 2
cups plum puree, enough for 9 cocktails.)
2. Make the cocktail: Combine gin, egg
white, lemon juice, and 31/2 tablespoons
plum puree in a dry cocktail shaker with-
out ice. Place lid on shaker; shake vigor-
ously to combine, about 15 seconds. Add
enough ice to shaker to fill three-fourths
of the way up. Place lid on shaker, and
shake until well chilled, about 10 seconds.
Strain into a chilled highball glass filled
with ice. Top with club soda, and garnish
with lavender sprig. —HANNAH SELINGER
MAKE AHEAD Plum puree may be stored
in an airtight container in refrigerator up
to 1 week.

58 AUGUST 2022
 A DV ERT IS E ME N T

SHOPPING A LA CARTE

The Cherry Bowl

The Olive Boat

corico.com

Artisan salami
for over
$10 OFFFW!28 100 yrs!
:
with code Pasta
Olives
Sauces
Small Group Travel
Specialties
Cheese from Italy

All Natural - Nitrate Free Salami

Samplers & Gift Ideas | Gift of the Month Clubs
FW28 SHOP ONLINE

10% off with Code FW822 www.celestialvoyagers.com

(coupon good until 11/15/22, online orders only)

TO ADVERTISE: CONTACT DEVIN AT MI INTEGRATED MEDIA, 860-265-8585 OR [email protected]

1 7 H O T E L B R A N D S • 6 , 0 0 0 G LO B A L D E S T I N AT I O N S • O N E LOYA LT Y P R O G R A M
 TRAVEL

Like its two sister res-

taurants, the Roma lo-
cation of Con Vista al
Mar is punctuated by
bright typography,
colors, and flavors .

WHERE TO GO NEXT

Mexico City’s Seafood Obsession

PHOTOGRAPHY: ANDREW REINER

A new wave of restaurants is turning to the

country’s coast and beaches for inspiration.
By Naomi Tomky

AUGUST 2022 61
 left: Vibrant and refreshing green aguachile with
T R AV E L

shrimp and octopus is a mainstay on Con Vista al

Mar’s menu.

below: Chef Salvador Orozco opened Mi Compa

Chava, a fun seafood spot where the offerings in-
clude oyster micheladas, chile-and-lime-infused
seafood stews, and fish tostadas (opposite).

Despite its landlocked location, Mexico City has

always offered plenty of casual seafood spots, the
most well-known of them being Gabriela Cámara’s
Contramar, which cemented the jewel-toned tuna
tostada as one of the city’s must-eat items more than
two decades ago. “Most formal restaurants that sold
fish were more ‘European,’ and local places were

T
O KEEP HIS DAD FROM discovering that very wash-and-wear and marketplace stalls,” re-
he got kicked out of junior high, Irak calls Cámara from when she first opened in 1998.
Roaro dutifully put on his school uni- Her focus on domestic fisheries and cooperatives
form each morning but spent his days hanging broke ground at the time, when the city’s top chefs
out on Mazatlán’s malecón with the local spear- still mostly trained in Europe and returned to open

PHOTOGRAPHY: (FROM LEFT) ANDREW REINER, JUAN DE DIOS GARZA VELA

fishermen, watching them work and eat. “They fancy French or Spanish restaurants. It would take
would fillet the fish and just add chiltepin chile, another decade before chefs started opening high-
lime, and a little bit of seawater,” the chef recalls. end Mexican restaurants.
Roaro eventually left the Sinaloan coast for Today, Mexico City’s most ambitious chefs are
kitchens in Mexico City and has spent the past focusing their talents on more personal, regional
15 years working in fine dining. Lately, he’s restaurants, and since last year, that’s meant the
been wanting to connect the dots between his city’s hottest new spots sport beach vibes and
beachside memories and his formal training. pristine seafood flown in directly from the Pacific
“I’m trying to take those techniques, those fla- Coast. When the pandemic hit, everyone gravitated
vor constructions, and bring them to a taco,” toward comfort food, says food tour guide Anaís
he says. That vision comes to life at Con Vista al Martínez, especially deep-fried stuff like chicken
Mar, which he opened in Colonia Nápoles last sandwiches. But when people started going out
year, where he dresses octopus tacos with hoja again, that changed. “They wanted hangover food—
santa–habanero pesto and stuffs tortillas with that is what seafood is for us,” she explains.
tuna carnitas and manta ray al pastor. “I want to That’s why micheladas get an upgrade at Mi
cook what I like to eat,” he says. Compa Chava in the Roma neighborhood, where

62 AUGUST 2022
 PHOTOGRAPHY: JUAN DE DIOS GARZA VELA

AUGUST 2022
63
T R AV E L

PHOTOGRAPHY: (CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) LINDSAY LAUCKNER GUNDLOCK (2), ALANNA HALE/THE NEW YORK TIMES/REDUX
Two decades ago,
they make them with Clamato, the classic cure
chef Gabriela Cámara
for a cruda. Servers weave through the chaotic (right) laid the foun-
line of people waiting for a table carrying trays of dation for superlative
cheve chola: beer flipped upside down into a cup seafood with a focus
on local fisheries. Her
of Clamato and lime juice, filled with octopus,
restaurant Contramar
shrimp, and serrano chiles. (above) is still one of
Inside, the music blares, and customers sit the busiest and buzzi-
on metal folding chairs at beer-branded tables, est spots in Mexico City
for dishes like seared
dabbing housemade seafood sauce onto fresh-
tuna loin with citrus-
shucked almejas chocolatas (chocolate clams) soy sauce.
and digging into jet-black aguachile, tart with
tannins from cacao ash, blanketing plump raw
shrimp. Unmolded tableside, the Señora Torres,
a six-inch-tall tightly packed stack of scallops, raw and cooked “I have always been very inspired by the fig-
shrimp, octopus, yellowfin tuna, onions, cucumbers, and avo- ure of the mustachioed marisquero who cares
cados, drenched in morita chile sauce, teeters on the edge of for you, who pampers you, who hugs you, who
absurdity, pushed safely back to pure impressiveness by the knows what you like,” Orozco says. In creating
quality of the fish and precision of the flavors. the restaurant, he intended to transport the clas-
Mi Compa Chava opened in June 2021, and it was “a lifesaver sic beach-town seafood cart to Mexico City.
for this pandemic,” says owner Salvador Orozco. The Sinaloan Chef Alexander Suástegui, who grew up in
chef always dreamed of someday opening a seafood restaurant, Sinaloa and Tijuana, knows that those carts dish
so when he left his job after more than a decade with Bull & up the best food, at the best prices. “You don’t
Tank restaurant group, he hit fast-forward on that plan. need to have a fancy chair or polished service,”

64 AUGUST 2022
 The colorful Costela sports a
cheery bar in a plant-filled
covered courtyard where chef
Alexander Suástegui—who has
done time at Quintonil and
Pujol—serves “chill-out” ver-
sions of her favorite seafood, like
clams and oysters with a “secret”
salsa, in a relaxed atmosphere.

she says. A veteran of many of the city’s top

spots, including Pujol and Quintonil, Suástegui
serves mussels in a chiltepin chile sauce under
a mural of a Baja sunset with pink palm trees
at her restaurant Costela, which she opened in
Colonia Cuauhtémoc in November. Encourag-
ing her guests to wear flip-flops to dinner, she
is candid about her vision. “I don’t want to open
another restaurant to be like the others. I want
to have fun; I want to share my food, my table,”
she says. She uses her culinary school training
and technical knowledge to make what she calls
“chill-out” versions of seafood dishes, including
octopus tostadas with fresh and dried shrimp vibe,” says Suástegui. Customers are, too: Orozco is planning
PHOTOGRAPHY: MARTIN LÓPEZ, TANYA CHÁVEZ

and Baja-style puffer fish tacos. to open a second Mi Compa Chava, and Roaro celebrated the
That same philosophy is shared by Roaro. anniversary of Con Vista al Mar by opening a third outlet.
“People are not looking for pretentious food,” “Everyone wants to eat good seafood,” says Cámara of the
he says. They still want great meals and cool pre- trend. But the idea of chefs at the peak of their careers choosing
sentation, but more than anything, they want a to open restaurants serving hangover food—and turning them
good time. Fun fonts, quirky style choices, and into the most coveted tables—hit the Mexico City food scene
bold colors—such as green at Con Vista al Mar, like a rogue wave, surprising and invigorating it. Creative, pre-
orangey-red at Costela, and yellow at Mi Compa cise, and playful, each evokes a specific corner of the Mexican
Chava—telegraph the lively party atmosphere at coast, serving tiny vacations in the form of briny bites and spicy,
each of the restaurants. “I’m obsessed with the seafood-stuffed beach energy.

AUGUST 2022 65
T R AV E L

clockwise from left: A

19th-century residen-
tial building in the his-
toric downtown is the
home of boutique hotel
Círculo Mexicano; the
new Ritz-Carlton has
extraordinary views
over the green lungs of
the city, Chapultepec
Park; hundreds of sea-
food vendors line the
city’s famous fish mar-
ket, the second-largest
in the world.

TOUR THE FISH

MARKET
For a brief period in
2018, when Tokyo’s
Tsukiji closed to relo-
cate, Mexico City’s La
Nueva Viga was the
largest fish market in
the world, explains
Anaís Martínez of
culinary tour company
Devoured on her tour
through the 90,000-
square-foot complex
($99–$120, devoured
.com.mx). Wandering
the more than 250 WHERE TO EAT
wholesale and retail

PHOTOGRAPHY: (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) SERGIO LÓPEZ, COURTESY RITZ-CARLTON, ANDREW REINER
stalls, she points out CON VISTA AL MAR COSTELA
chocolate clams with Mexico’s favorite taco Come for the agua-
red muscles that stick meats and street chiles with attitude,
out like a tongue from snacks get seafood- stay for the smoked
their rich brown shells, fueled makeovers, marlin tacos at this
oversized crawfish made with subtle skill ode to the coastal
from Tampico, and a
vendor salt-drying cod WHERE TO STAY and witty winks at tra-
dition. There are three
ideals of slowing down
and eating tons of
in the sun. To get the locations. (instagram fresh seafood.
good stuff, chefs and THE RITZ-CARLTON CÍRCULO MEXICANO .com/convista.almar) (instagram.com/
shopkeepers come For classic glamour, This modern and costelarestaurante)
at four in the morn- Mexico City’s first Ritz- luxurious hotel sits CONTRAMAR
ing, while home cooks Carlton rises high over at the literal intersec- MI COMPA CHAVA
The signature tuna
come a few hours later the iconic Paseo de la tion of a pre-Hispanic tostadas, two-toned A beach fiesta on
to pick up shiny bonito Reforma in a new archaeological site and fish, and see-and-be- a city sidewalk, only
and long, yellow dorado. 58-story tower featur- the enormous Zócalo, seen weekend lunches the music is louder,
“You get fresher sea- ing stunning views center of the colonial laid the foundation for the presentations
food here than on the of Chapultepec Park, and modern city. the current influx of are more creative,
coasts,” Martínez says, Latin America’s Designed with an eye superlative seafood and the seafood—
because it often gets second-largest park. toward simplicity, the spots. (contramar somehow—is even
sent directly here—the (Rooms from $529, rooms use wood and .com.mx) fresher. (instagram
country’s cultural and ritzcarlton.com) textiles to infuse a .com/micompachava)
economic capital— traditional feel into
before being shipped a fresh aesthetic.
back. “They hate us in (Rooms from $180,
the countryside.” circulomexicano.com)

66 AUGUST 2022
 A DV E R T I S E M E N T

BO
NO OK
W!

Kick off the fall season with us in Charleston, South Carolina, September 23rd & 24th!
Gather Charleston will be a weekend event you don’t want to miss – celebrating lowcountry cuisine,
local culture, and Southern heritage. Book your stay with one of our hotel partners today.
Buy your tickets today at gather-charleston.com

The Charleston Place Emeline

An independent, iconic landmark in the heart of Charleston’s For the soulful sojourner, for the inquisitive local. Welcome
historic district. Redefining the legendary spaces, experiences— to Emeline, a boutique hotel located on Church St. in
and city—with renewed passion, purpose, and intention. downtown Charleston. We bring southern charm
to life with bespoke amenities & delightful surprises.
OFFER CODE:* “GATHER” – includes daily breakfast credit
(up to $30 per person, per day), welcome amenity, OFFER CODE:* “CHS22” – 15% off room rate and a
and valet parking $25 dining credit (per stay)
205 Meeting St., Charleston • 843-722-4900 181 Church St., Charleston • 843-577-2644
charlestonplace.com hotelemeline.com

The Loutrel Wentworth Mansion

Located between Church Street and State Street in Charleston’s The grandest mansion in the Holy City, Wentworth Mansion exudes
historic district, The Loutrel distills the city’s refined elegance, a sense of history, unmatched luxury, and Southern hospitality – all
offering upscale amenities for the modern traveler. just steps from award-winning dining, art, history, and shopping.

OFFER CODE:* “FoodWine” – 10% off with complimentary GUEST OFFER* Complimentary valet parking, breakfast served
parking, a welcome cocktail, European breakfast, and WiFi in Circa 1886 restaurant, afternoon wine and hors d’oeuvres,
evening cordials, in-room soft drinks & bottled water, along
61 State St., Charleston • 843-872-9600
with an in-room welcome amenity
theloutrel.com
149 Wentworth Street, Charleston • 843-853-1886
wentworthmansion.com

For more information on tickets and event programming, visit gather-charleston.com

*Special offers and discounts are only available to Gather Charleston event attendees for accommodations during September 21–25, 2022. Room availability is limited
and offered on a first come, first served basis. For additional hotel recommendations, please visit charlestoncvb.com.
THE
BOCCE
BATTLES
OF
NAPA
VALLEY
WRITTEN BY RAY ISLE
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSÉ MANDOJANA
 Perfect Pitch
Josh Dempsey, a member of
the Sand Crabs, is ready to
roll on a summer night in St.
Helena in Napa Valley.

AUGUST 2022 69
 IT’S 8 P.M. ON A
SUMMER NIGHT AT
ST. HELENA’S CRANE
PARK, AND THE
BALLS ARE ROLLING.
THE NAME OF THE GAME IS BOCCE. The teams battling it
out, at least on this court, are the Sand Crabs—so named,
apparently, because when you play bocce you sort of
shuffle along like a crab before you bowl—and Balls on
Ya. The overhead lights are bright; with 17 teams on eight
lit courts, there are a hundred people here, easy, mostly
in the wine business in one way or another.
Bocce is a simple game. There’s a long dirt court, sort of
like a shuffleboard court. Whoever starts off stands at one
end and tosses the golf-ball-size white pallino down to the
other end. Then, teams take turns rolling larger colored
balls down the court, trying to get as close as possible
to the pallino. Closest ball wins. (There’s more to it than
that, but you get the idea.) Bocce is one of the best sports
on earth because you can play it with a wineglass in one
hand. And when everyone on your team works in wine
and you are playing in the heart of Napa Valley, what goes
in those glasses is really, really good.
To wit: At the Sand Crabs table tonight, there are bottles
of Cabernet Sauvignon from K. Laz Wine Collection and
Marston Family Vineyard, some Newfound Grenache
from the Shake Ridge Vineyard out in Amador County,
a few bottles of Champagne (why not?), and too many
others to keep track of. And Solo cups. But there are none
of those plastic Govino glasses, which is odd, because
Alexa Cutler, one of the team captains, works for Govino.
“The ongoing thing is she can’t get us Govino glasses,”
says Josh Phelps, the owner of Grounded Wine Co. “It’s
weird.” Phelps himself is holding a moisture-beaded cup
of frosé; he borrowed the frosé machine from a friend’s
restaurant for the night, and he has been making boozy
slushies for everyone using his own Space Age Rosé. Short
version: how to be the most popular guy around on a
steamy summer evening.
 THE PLAY’S
THE THING

clockwise from top

right: Bocce balls
and bottles, both
necessary for a good
game. Chris Cutler
digs into some fried
chicken (recipe p. 76).
Kerrin Laz’s caprese
salad (recipe p. 79) is
perfect on a summer
evening. With the
game almost tied,
Michelle Hagen keeps
a close watch on the
scoreboard.
opposite: Sand
Crabs teammates
Erin Dempsey (left)
and Kerrin Laz get in
the spirit of the game.

AUGUST 2022 71
 TEAM
PLAYERS
ANDREW WRIGHT
Winemaker, Merryvale Vineyards
St. Helena, California

KERRIN LAZ
Owner, K. Laz Wine Collection
Yountville, California

JOSH DEMPSEY
(AND DAUGHTER QUINN)
Regional director,
Vanguard Properties
St. Helena, California

AUDRA CHAPMAN
Co-owner, Newfound Wines
St. Helena, California

ERIN DEMPSEY
Marketing director, JD Napa Valley
St. Helena, California

JOSH PHELPS
Owner and winemaker,
Grounded Wine Co.
St. Helena, California

72 AUGUST 2022
PICNIC TIME
Teams bring their A game when it
comes to food at the St. Helena
bocce league games. The equipment
itself is venerable: The games have
been going on for decades now.
 THE
WINES
2020 GROUNDED
WINE CO. CABERNET
SAUVIGNON ($18)
Winemaker and team
member Josh Phelps’
luscious California
Cabernet is a steal at
the price.

2021 NEWFOUND
ROSÉ ($30) A blend
of Grenache and
Mourvèdre gives this
snappy rosé gorgeous
aromatics.

2019 MERRYVALE
NAPA VALLEY
SAUVIGNON BLANC
($36) Winemaker
Andrew Wright barrel-
ferments this lemony,
zesty white for addi-
tional richness.

2018 LAZ NAPA

VALLEY CABERNET
SAUVIGNON ($165)
Kerrin Laz enlisted
noted winemaker Celia
Welch to make this pol-
ished, powerful red.

74 AUGUST 2022
GAME ON
Sand Crabs team captain Alexa
Cutler gets ready for her roll. At any
given time, there may be up to 17
teams playing on the eight courts at
Crane Park, six nights a week; there
are over 2,000 players registered
in the league. opposite: A crunchy
watermelon salad with feta (recipe
p. 79) and deviled eggs (recipe p. 79)
fill out the picnic menu today.

Someone yells, “Nice roll for living on a boat for the last
decade!” Not clear who the player is or why they were
living on a boat, but yes, definitely, a nice roll, with the
ball—red, unfortunately, which means not the Sand Crabs
but Balls on Ya—knocking into the pallino with a gentle
tock and nudging the Sand Crabs’ green ball farther away
at the same time. Things are looking dicey for the Crabs.
“We don’t regularly win,” Kerrin Laz observes with a
shrug. “Our food and wine though? Definitely top five.”
The guys who win? Those are the much-feared (well,
sort of) Hone Dogs, who are known for being both good
and extremely competitive. They show up in sleeveless
white T-shirts and straw cowboy hats, come armed with
tape measures (to check distance in disputed situations),
and are known, I’m told, for once playing a game at the
old folks’ home down the valley and completely crushing
the 80-year-olds they were up against. Zero mercy. “All
these ladies with walkers were like, ‘Yeah, I’m not going
to play anymore,’” Phelps says. “I mean, our team is not
as aggressive as I’d like. I play to win. But come on.”
The other competition going on here is the food, and it’s
equally hard-fought. The picnic tables are loaded. For the
Crabs tonight, it’s deviled eggs (from Genova Delicatessen
down in Napa, recipe p. 79), buttermilk fried chicken (chef
Thomas Keller’s recipe, p. 76, which cannot be beat), a
platter of caprese salad with tomatoes from the St. Helena
farmers market (recipe p. 79), and Phelps’ sweet-salty
watermelon salad with feta (recipe p. 79). Across the way,
someone has enough birria to feed, well, a large bocce
team, with tortillas filled with cheese sizzling on a grill,
not to mention chips, guac, rice, peppers—the works.
Other tables are similarly ambitious. There’s a definite
competitive vibe, but it’s all in service of fun.
Around 10 p.m., the last teams—Sand Crabs among
them—are wrapping up. The lights are still on. The North-
ern California stars wheel overhead. Final score: 12 to 5.
The Crabs were 10 and 32 last season, not exactly playoff
material. “Bro, that was baller!” someone on another court
yells. Tock! But even with tonight’s loss, this season is
looking better. Maybe not Hone Dog level, maybe the old
guys on the Paisans will still crush them, but better. Hope
springs eternal. Here, have that last piece of fried chicken.
 PICNIC LIKE A WINE PRO
Teams in the St. Helena bocce league go all out with the picnic planning—it’s as much of a
competition as the game itself. For this match, the Sand Crabs went classic: fried chicken (chef
Thomas Keller’s recipe from Ad Hoc, since team member Kerrin Laz lives down the street from
his restaurant), deviled eggs, caprese and watermelon salads, and frosé made with team
member Josh Phelps’ Space Age Rosé, to keep things cool.

Rosemary and thyme sprigs, for very crisp, and a thermometer inserted in

Buttermilk garnish (optional) thickest portion of meat registers 165°F, 11

to 12 minutes. Meanwhile, repeat coating

Fried Chicken 1. Make the brined chicken: Place 1 gal-

lon water, kosher salt, honey, lemons, bay
leaves, parsley, thyme, garlic, and pepper-
process with chicken drumsticks. Transfer
coated drumsticks to parchment-lined
baking sheet.
ACTIVE 1 HR 10 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 20 MIN,
corns in a container large enough to hold
PLUS 12 HR REFRIGERATING 7. Transfer cooked thighs, skin side up, to
brine and chickens, such as a stockpot. Stir
SERVES 6 TO 8 prepared wire rack; let rest while you fry
brine until salt dissolves. Cut each chicken
remaining chicken. (Putting the pieces
into 10 pieces: 2 drumsticks, 2 thighs, 4
First published in our pages in October skin side up will allow excess fat to drain,
breast quarters, and 2 wings. Place chicken
2007, this staff-favorite fried chicken still whereas leaving them skin side down could
pieces in brine. Cover and refrigerate 12
sets the standard. For the first—and most trap some of the fat.) Make sure oil is 320°F,
hours. (Do not refrigerate chicken longer
critical—step in this recipe, Thomas Keller and carefully lower chicken drumsticks
than 12 hours or it may become too salty.)
brines chicken for 12 hours in an herb- into hot oil, adjusting heat as needed to
lemon saltwater mixture, which seasons 2. Remove chicken from brine; discard return oil to 320°F. Cook 2 minutes, and
the meat and helps it stay juicy through brine. Rinse chicken under cold water, then carefully move chicken pieces around
frying. After the brining comes a dip in sea- removing any herbs or spices sticking to in oil using tongs. Continue to cook, moni-
soned flour, then in buttermilk, and then skin. Pat dry with paper towels. Let chicken toring oil temperature and turning chicken
back to the seasoned flour. This double- stand until it comes to room temperature, as needed for even cooking, until chicken is
layer crust fries up satisfyingly crisp, 30 to 45 minutes. deep golden brown, very crisp, and cooked
crunchy, and craggy, holding up perfectly 3. Fill a large pot with peanut oil to a depth to 165°F, 11 to 12 minutes. Transfer drum-
on the picnic table. of 2 inches; heat over medium-high to sticks to wire rack; lean them against thighs,
320°F. (Adjust heat as needed to maintain meat side up, to drain. Sprinkle thighs and
BRINED CHICKEN oil temperature.) Set a wire rack over a drumsticks with fine sea salt to taste.
1 gal. water baking sheet; reserve for cooked chicken. 8. Increase heat under hot oil to high, and
Line a second baking sheet with parch- heat oil to 340°F. Meanwhile, repeat coat-
1 cup Diamond Crystal kosher salt
ment paper; reserve for raw chicken. ing process with chicken breast pieces
1/4 cup clover honey
4. While oil heats, whisk together flour, gar- and wings. Carefully lower chicken breast
2 lemons, halved
lic powder, onion powder, paprika, cayenne, pieces into hot oil; cook until golden brown,
12 dried bay leaves crisp, and cooked to 165°F, about 7 min-
1 teaspoon kosher salt, and 1/2 teaspoon
1 (2-oz.) bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley black pepper in a large bowl. Transfer half utes, turning once using tongs halfway
1 (1/2-oz.) pkg. fresh thyme of the flour mixture (about 11/2 cups) to a through cook time. Transfer breasts to wire
1 head garlic, halved crosswise second large bowl. Pour buttermilk into a rack; sprinkle with fine sea salt to taste,
third bowl, and season with remaining and turn skin side up. Add wings to hot oil;
2 Tbsp. black peppercorns
1 teaspoon kosher salt and remaining 1/2 cook until golden brown and cooked to
2 (21/2- to 3-lb.) whole chickens, 165°F, about 6 minutes, turning once half-
teaspoon black pepper.
giblets removed (see Note)
way through cook time. Transfer wings to
5. Working with 1 chicken thigh at a time,
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS wire rack, and sprinkle with fine sea salt to
dip chicken thighs into first bowl of flour
Peanut oil or canola oil, for taste. Remove hot oil from heat.
mixture; turn to coat, and pat off excess.
deep-frying Dip into buttermilk mixture, letting excess 9. Arrange fried chicken on a platter. If
3 cups all-purpose flour (about 123/4 drip back into bowl. Dip into second bowl desired, add rosemary and thyme sprigs
oz.) of flour mixture. Transfer coated chicken to oil (which will still be hot); let them cook
2 Tbsp. garlic powder thigh to parchment-lined baking sheet. and crisp for a few seconds, and arrange
2 Tbsp. onion powder them over chicken. —EXCERPTED FROM AD
6. Carefully lower chicken thighs into hot
HOC AT HOME BY THOMAS KELLER (ARTISAN
2 tsp. paprika oil, adjusting heat as needed to return oil
BOOKS). COPYRIGHT © 2009
2 tsp. cayenne pepper to 320°F. Cook 2 minutes, and then care-
fully move chicken pieces around in oil NOTE Small organic chickens are available
2 tsp. kosher salt, divided
using tongs or a slotted spoon; continue at most farmers markets. Larger 3- to
1 tsp. black pepper, divided
to cook, monitoring oil temperature and 4-pound chickens will work in this recipe,
2 cups whole buttermilk turning chicken as needed for even cook- but the smaller 2 1/2- to 3-pound birds
Fine sea salt or ground fleur de sel ing, until chicken is deep golden brown, result in the optimal meat-to-crust ratio.

76 AUGUST 2022
 FRIED CHICKEN
& CABERNET

Why not? The truth is

that this salty,
crunchy buttermilk
fried chicken goes
equally well with red
or white. It really
depends on your own
preference.
 BOCCE BONDING

clockwise from top

left: A drizzle of
balsamic adds depth
to a caprese salad.
Teammates Josh
Dempsey and Josh
Phelps celebrate a
winning roll. Phelps
borrowed a frosé
machine from local
restaurant The
Charter Oak for game
day frosés, but
they’re easy to make
at home, too. Bocce
takes concentration,
especially when
opposing players
insist on judging your
technique.

78 AUGUST 2022
 at least 6 hours or up to 10 hours, stirring 1 small seedless watermelon (about 7

Deviled Eggs mixture once every hour.

2. Remove from freezer. Divide frosé evenly
1/4
lb. 8 oz.)
cup extra-virgin olive oil
PHOTO P. 74 3/4 Tbsp. fine sea salt
among 6 chilled glasses. Top glasses with
TOTAL 10 MIN; SERVES 14 Aperol for a little extra fun, if desired, and 1/4 tsp. black pepper
serve. —JOSH PHELPS, GROUNDED WINE CO., 7 oz. feta cheese, sliced
A heavy dose of mayonnaise gives the ST. HELENA, CALIFORNIA
filling of these deviled eggs an extra-silky Fresh mint leaves, for garnish
MAKE AHEAD Frosé can be stored in an
texture and rich flavor, while sharp Dijon
airtight container in the freezer up to Cut watermelon in half lengthwise;
mustard and fresh dill add acidity and
1 month. reserve 1 half for another use. Cut remain-
brightness to the classic appetizer.
NOTE Find Space Age rosé, made on the ing watermelon half in half lengthwise.
14 hard-cooked eggs Central Coast of California, online at Slice each watermelon quarter into
1/2-inch-thick wedges (about 16 wedges
11/2 cups mayonnaise groundedwineco.com.
total). Drizzle watermelon evenly with olive
1 tsp. chopped fresh dill, plus more for
oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Top
garnish
1 tsp. Dijon mustard Strawberry evenly with feta, and garnish with mint
leaves. —JOSH PHELPS, GROUNDED WINE CO.,
1/8

1/8
tsp. white pepper
tsp. granulated garlic
Simple Syrup ST. HELENA, CALIFORNIA

MAKE AHEAD Store sliced watermelon in

Paprika, for garnish TOTAL 5 MIN; MAKES 1 1/2 CUPS
an airtight container in refrigerator up to
Juicy, ripe strawberries are pureed with 2 days. Top with remaining ingredients
Peel eggs, and cut in half lengthwise.
sweet syrup to create a fragrant and fruity just before serving.
Scoop yolks into a medium bowl. Place
egg whites on a platter, and set aside. Add base perfect for cocktails and mocktails.
mayonnaise, dill, Dijon mustard, white
pepper, and granulated garlic to bowl with
Try drizzling the pink syrup over fresh fruit
salad or brushing it over layers of cooled Yountville
egg yolks, and whisk until mostly smooth,
about 1 minute. Transfer mayonnaise
mixture to a piping bag or a ziplock plastic
cake before frosting to add a rosy hue and
luscious sweetness. Caprese Salad
TOTAL 10 MIN; SERVES 6 TO 8
freezer bag with a 1/2-inch hole cut in 1 1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. granulated sugar
corner. Pipe evenly into egg white halves. 1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. water This simple Italian salad named after the
Garnish deviled eggs with paprika and 5 large fresh strawberries (about 7 1/2
island of Capri is no stranger to a summer-
additional dill. —GENOVA DELICATESSEN, oz.), hulled time table setting. Sun-ripened farmers
WALNUT CREEK, CALIFORNIA market tomatoes are layered with creamy
1. In a small saucepan, bring sugar and mozzarella and topped with aromatic fresh
MAKE AHEAD Deviled eggs can be
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons water to a boil; basil, sweet and tangy balsamic vinegar,
prepared up to 1 day in advance and
simmer until the sugar is dissolved, about
stored in an airtight container in and floral lemon zest in this riff on the sea-
3 minutes. Remove from heat, and let cool
refrigerator. sonal favorite.
completely.
NOTE Shock hard-boiled eggs in a large
2. Process strawberries and 1 cup plus 6 medium (5-oz.) heirloom tomatoes
bowl of ice water to quickly stop the
2 tablespoons simple syrup in a blender 2 (8-oz.) fresh mozzarella cheese balls
cooking process.
until smooth, about 1 minute. Pour syrup 1 tsp. kosher salt
through a fine wire-mesh strainer into 1/2 cup loosely packed fresh basil
Frosé a measuring cup; discard solids. —JOSH
PHELPS, GROUNDED WINE CO., ST. HELENA,
leaves, thinly sliced
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
TOTAL 10 MIN, PLUS 6 HR FREEZING CALIFORNIA
SERVES 6
2 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar
MAKE AHEAD Syrup can be made up to 3
1 lemon
days in advance and stored in an airtight
This elegant, boozy slushy shines with Freshly cracked black pepper
container in refrigerator.
fresh strawberries; fruity, floral rosé; and
a splash of tart lemon juice. Simple syrup 1. Cut tomatoes and mozzarella in even
keeps the slushy smooth, not icy.
Watermelon slices (about 3/8 inch thick). Sprinkle evenly
with salt.
1 (750-ml.) bottle Space Age rosé
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. Strawberry Simple Salad with Feta 2. Arrange tomato and mozzarella slices
alternately on a platter. Sprinkle evenly
Syrup (recipe follows) PHOTO P. 74
1/4
with basil. Drizzle evenly with olive oil
cup plus 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice TOTAL 10 MIN; SERVES 8
(from 2 lemons) and balsamic vinegar. Using a Microplane
1/4
grater, grate lemon zest directly over toma-
cup plus 2 Tbsp. (3 oz.) tequila, Milky, salty feta cheese enhances the
vodka, or gin toes and mozzarella; reserve zested lemon
floral, sweet, and grassy flavors of juicy
for another use. Garnish with cracked
Aperol (optional) watermelon while fresh mint leaves bring
black pepper. —KERRIN LAZ, K. LAZ WINE
a refreshingly cool bite to this simple
COLLECTION, YOUNTVILLE, CALIFORNIA
1. Combine rosé, strawberry simple syrup, summer salad. Serve it well chilled to beat
lemon juice, and tequila in a large freezer- the heat, and select a fruity olive oil, such MAKE AHEAD Mozzarella can be sliced up
safe container; stir to combine. Cover and as one made from Arbequina olives, to to 4 hours in advance and stored in an
freeze until almost solid (mixture won’t bring out the honeylike sweetness of the airtight container in refrigerator.
freeze completely because of the alcohol), watermelon. Assemble platter just before serving.

AUGUST 2022 79
 S
U
M
M
E
R
BY
MARY-FRANCES HECK

PHOTOGRAPHY BY
VICTOR PROTASIO
 S
A chicken soup made for late
summer: infused with fresh
ginger, cilantro stems, and
scallions and topped with
piquant chiles, red onions, and
O
U
sweet citrus (recipe p. 89)

P
S
WHETHER
SERVED HOT OR
COLD, SOUPS
TAILORED TO
SUMMER
COOKING ARE
THE ULTIMATE
VESSEL FOR
PEAK-SEASON
PRODUCE.

81
 S
oups tend
to get over-
looked in
the summer
months; they’re seen
as too hearty, too fill-
ing, or just too hot.
But brothy bowls filled
with juicy tomatoes
or succulent shrimp
can be refreshing and
light—just the thing to
quench your craving
for a low-key warm-
weather meal. In these
five new takes on
classic recipes, sum-
mer vegetables play a
starring role, putting
seasonal flavors front
and center. Although
some of these soups
are served chilled and
others are served hot,
they’re all so good that
you’ll be scraping the
bowl with your spoon
for every last drop.

82 AUGUST 2022
 chill OUt
In 1917, French chef Louis Diat served a chilled
version of a French leek and potato soup to
diners at the Ritz-Carlton in New York City,
dubbing it vichyssoise. It became an instant
classic. This version is lighter than the origi-
nal, using half-and-half in place of cream and
adding savory balance through the garnishes:
crunchy garlic croutons, salty and rich shaved
pecorino Romano cheese, and peppery sliced
scallions. Together, they add up to the best
kind of warm-weather meal.

Vichyssoise until leeks are softened but have

ACTIVE 35 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 15 MIN,
not developed any color, about
PLUS 4 HR CHILLING; SERVES 4
8 minutes.
3. Add broth, potatoes, and salt
to leek mixture; bring to a simmer
3 large (10-oz.) leeks over medium. Reduce heat to low;
1/4 cup unsalted butter (2 oz.) simmer, uncovered, until potatoes
5 cups lower-sodium vegetable are tender, about 30 minutes.
broth or chicken broth Remove from heat. Let cool slightly,
1 lb. russet potatoes, peeled about 10 minutes.
and chopped (about 21/2
4. Working in batches if needed,
cups)
pour leek mixture into a blender.
2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
Secure lid on blender, and remove
to taste
center piece to allow steam to
1/2 cup half-and-half
escape. Place a clean towel over
Black pepper, to taste opening. Process until completely
Thinly sliced scallions, garlic smooth, about 1 minute. Transfer
croutons, and shaved soup to a heatproof bowl, and
FOOD STYLING: CHELSEA ZIMMER; PROP STYLING: THOM DRIVER

pecorino Romano cheese, refrigerate, covered, until com-

for garnish
pletely cold, at least 4 hours or up
to 24 hours. Remove soup from
1. Trim and discard root ends from
refrigerator, and stir in half-and-
leeks. Trim and discard the dark
half. Taste soup, and season with
green tops, reserving the white
salt and pepper to taste. Divide
and light green parts of the leeks.
soup evenly among 4 bowls. Gar-
Halve leeks lengthwise; rinse them,
nish with scallions, croutons, and
inside and out, under cool water.
pecorino Romano cheese. —MARY-
Pat leeks dry, and thinly slice
FRANCES HECK
crosswise. (You should have about
7 cups sliced leeks.) MAKE AHEAD Soup may be kept
chilled up to 1 day.
2. Melt butter in a large saucepan
over medium. Add leeks, and stir to WINE Citrusy, tart French white:
coat in butter; cook, stirring often, 2021 Domaine Delaporte Sancerre
PREtty
in Pink
The best thing about this borscht? There’s
no stove required. Packed with fresh summer
herbs, this chilled beet soup is both bright and
earthy. Grated beets are quickly marinated
in a pickle juice brine to mellow their earthi-
ness before being stirred together with grated
cucumber and buttermilk for a crisp, cooling
bite that’s as delicious as it is beautiful.

Borscht with Buttermilk pickle juice, sugar, and 1 tablespoon

and Grated Cucumber salt; toss to combine. Let stand at
ACTIVE 10 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 40 MIN
room temperature, uncovered, until
flavors meld, about 30 minutes.
SERVES 8
2. Using large holes of a box grater,
grate cucumber into beet mixture
2 lb. peeled cooked red beets in bowl. Add 1 cup cold water, scal-
1/2 cup dill pickle juice lions, dill, lemon juice, pepper, and
2 Tbsp. granulated sugar remaining 2 teaspoons salt; gently
1 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. kosher salt, stir until mixture is combined. Add
divided, plus more to taste buttermilk in 2 additions, gently
1 large cucumber (about 12 stirring and folding until soup turns
oz.), peeled, halved fuchsia and is evenly colored. Stir in
lengthwise, and seeded additional salt and pepper to taste.
1 cup cold water (The soup should be assertively
seasoned.)
1/2 cup chopped scallions (from
4 large scallions), plus more 3. Refrigerate soup, covered, until
for garnish very cold, at least 2 hours or up to
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh dill, 3 days. Serve topped with hard-
plus more for garnish cooked eggs, sour cream, chopped
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice (from fresh herbs, and additional scal-
1 lemon) lions and dill. —MARY-FRANCES HECK
11/2 tsp. black pepper, plus more
MAKE AHEAD Soup can be made
to taste
up to 1 day ahead and stored in an
4 cups buttermilk airtight container in refrigerator.
8 hard-cooked eggs, peeled
WINE Light, fruity red: 2020 Louis
and quartered lengthwise
Jadot Beaujolais-Villages
1 cup sour cream
Chopped fresh herbs (such NOTE Use whole-fat buttermilk for
as chives or flat-leaf parsley), extra richness. Look for pre-
for serving cooked beets in the refrigerated
produce section. Rub cooked
1. Using large holes of a box grater, beets with a paper towel to easily
grate beets into a large bowl. Add remove their skins.
AUGUST 2022 85
86 AUGUST 2022
SOng Of
thE ShRiMP
On a cool summer night, nothing hits the spot more than
creamy shrimp bisque with a side of crusty bread. In this
version, sautéed shrimp shells impart a sweet complex-
ity to the foundation of this deeply flavorful bisque. White
rice is slowly simmered in the aromatic broth and then
pureed to give the soup body and a velvety consistency
without masking the aroma or flavor. To make it a meal,
serve the bisque with chopped steamed shrimp and a
crusty baguette.

Shrimp Bisque 1 tsp. black pepper, plus more 3. Remove and discard herb bou-
to taste quet from soup mixture. Working in
ACTIVE 35 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 15 MIN
1/8 tsp. cayenne pepper, plus 2 batches, pour soup mixture into
SERVES 6 TO 8
more to taste a blender. Secure lid on blender,
Crème fraîche and remove center piece to allow
1/2 cup unsalted butter (4 oz.), steam to escape. Place a clean
Chopped fresh chives
divided (optional) towel over opening. Process until
3 large (4-oz.) plum tomatoes, completely smooth, about 1 min-
Paprika, cayenne pepper, or
cored and chopped (about ute. Pour through a fine wire-mesh
Old Bay seasoning, for
2 cups) strainer into a 6-quart saucepan;
garnish
1 large (12-oz.) yellow onion, discard solids.
chopped (about 2 cups) 1. Melt 1/4 cup butter in a large 4. Bring bisque in saucepan to a
1 medium (4-oz.) carrot, stockpot over medium. Add toma- low simmer over medium. Whisk
peeled and chopped (about toes, onion, carrot, and celery; in cream, lemon juice, black pep-
1/2 cup)
cook, covered, stirring occasionally, per, cayenne pepper, remaining
1 medium (11/2-oz.) celery until vegetables are soft, about 7 1/4 cup butter, and remaining 11/2
stalk, chopped (about minutes. Increase heat to high, and
1/2 cup)
teaspoons salt until smooth and
add shrimp shells and rice; cook, well combined. Adjust seasoning
6 cups uncooked shrimp shells stirring often, until shells turn deep with additional salt, lemon juice,
(about 51/2 oz.), crab shells,
red, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in tomato black pepper, and cayenne pepper
or lobster shells
paste; cook, stirring often, until to taste.
1/2 cup uncooked white rice
browned, about 2 minutes. Remove
(preferably basmati) 5. Divide bisque evenly among
from heat, and stir in brandy.
2 Tbsp. tomato paste bowls. Garnish with crème fraîche,
Return to heat over high, and cook, chives, and paprika, cayenne
1/2 cup (4 oz.) brandy stirring occasionally, until liquid has pepper, or Old Bay seasoning, as
6 (6-inch) flat-leaf parsley almost evaporated, 2 to 3 minutes. desired. —MARY-FRANCES HECK
sprigs
2. Tie together parsley, thyme, MAKE AHEAD Soup can be
6 (6-inch) thyme sprigs
and bay leaf using kitchen twine prepared through step 3 and
1 fresh or dried bay leaf to make a bouquet. Add herb refrigerated in an airtight
9 cups water bouquet, 9 cups water, and 2 tea- container up to 2 days.
31/2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to spoons salt to mixture in pot; bring
taste WINE Herbal, zesty Sauvignon
to a boil over high. Reduce heat to
medium-low; cover and simmer Blanc: 2021 Massican Napa Valley
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. fresh lemon 30 minutes. Remove from heat. NOTE Two pounds of shell-on
juice (from 1 lemon), plus Uncover and let cool briefly, about large shrimp yield about 6 cups
more to taste 10 minutes. shrimp shells.
 StOck UP!
Homemade stock reigns
supreme, but it’s good
to have a quality store-
bought version on hand
when you’re in a hurry.
The F&W test kitchen
tasted over 20 brands to
pick these favorites.

Zoup! Organic Veggie

Broth has a clean,
complex flavor that will
work in any soup. Its
dark color will give
creamy white soups like
Vichyssoise (p. 83) a
golden hue. ($7,
zoupbroth.com)

Brodo Our Signature

Hearth Bone Broth, a
collagen-packed blend
of chicken, turkey, and
beef, has a jelly-like
texture when chilled.
Use it for warm soups.
($14, brodo.com)

Epic Beef Jalapeño

Sea Salt Bone Broth
makes a great base for
chilis or piquant soups.
Try it in our Chicken
Soup (opposite) for a
spicy twist. ($7,
epicprovisions.com)

Better Than Bouillon

Organic Roasted
Chicken Base delivers
robust chicken flavor in
a convenient jar of
concentrate. It’s salty,
so adjust the soup’s
seasoning to taste. ($8,
betterthanbouillon.com)

88 AUGUST 2022
SOUP fOR thE
SUMMER SOUl
Quick-cooking boneless chicken pieces are gen-
tly simmered in a ginger-and-cilantro-infused
broth in this twist on a classic. The eye-catching
garnish tray doubles as a colorful centerpiece,
allowing guests to pile their bowls with fresh
herbs, spicy chiles, and citrus.

Chicken Soup with Ginger to a simmer over medium-high.

and Cilantro Reduce heat to medium to maintain
a gentle simmer. Simmer, undis-
ACTIVE 35 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 40 MIN
turbed, until chicken is cooked
SERVES 6
through and is easily shredded, 30
to 40 minutes. Transfer chicken
1 lb. boneless, skinless chicken pieces to a plate. Let chicken stand
breasts or thighs until cool enough to handle, about
12 cups homemade or lower- 5 minutes, then shred into bite-size
sodium chicken broth pieces; set aside. While chicken is
2 bunches fresh cilantro, stems cooling, increase heat under pan
only (about 1 cup packed to medium-high, and bring broth
stems), leaves reserved for mixture to a boil. Boil, undisturbed,
garnish until liquid has reduced by one-
3 medium scallions (about 11/2 third, about 15 minutes. Remove
oz.), cut in half from heat. Let cool slightly, about
1 (3-inch) piece fresh ginger 3 minutes. Pour through a fine wire-
(unpeeled), sliced mesh strainer into a large heatproof
2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more if bowl; discard solids.
desired 2. Wipe pan clean; return strained
1 medium (9-oz.) zucchini, broth mixture to pan. Bring to a
quartered lengthwise and cut simmer over medium. Stir in zuc-
into 1/4-inch-thick slices chini and bell pepper; cook, undis-
(about 2 cups) turbed, until vegetables are tender,
3/4 cup chopped (1/2-inch pieces) about 6 minutes. Stir in tomato
red bell pepper (from 1 and shredded chicken; cook,
medium [8-oz.] bell pepper) undisturbed, until warmed through,
1 small (6-oz.) tomato, roughly about 2 minutes. Season soup to
chopped (about 1 cup) taste with soy sauce or fish sauce
Soy sauce or fish sauce and additional salt as desired.
(optional)
3. Arrange mixed herbs, jalapeños,
4 cups loosely packed mixed
red onion, and citrus wedges on
tender fresh herbs (such as
basil, cilantro, shiso, a platter. Divide hot soup evenly
scallions, chives, and among 6 bowls, and serve along-
tarragon) side aromatic garnishes. —MARY-
FRANCES HECK
Sliced fresh jalapeños or
other chiles, thinly sliced red MAKE AHEAD Soup can be
onion or shallot, and lemon, prepared through step 1 up to 2
lime, and orange wedges, for
days ahead. Chill chicken and broth
garnish
separately in airtight containers.
1. Combine chicken pieces, broth, WINE Crisp, tangy white: 2020
cilantro stems, scallions, ginger, Hugues Beauvignac Picpoul de
and salt in a large saucepan; bring Pinet
tOMatO
tiME
Perfect for sweltering days, this refreshing
chilled soup is bursting with sweet and juicy
peak-season tomatoes. Bright sherry vinegar
and shallots balance the smooth vegetable
puree while salsa fresca adds a crunchy bite
and pops of fresh cilantro and jalapeño.

Gazpacho 1. Make the gazpacho: Toss

ACTIVE 25 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 45 MIN
together beefsteak tomatoes,
cucumber, bell pepper, and salt in a
SERVES 4 TO 6
medium bowl. Let stand until 1 inch
GAZPACHO
of drained vegetable juice collects
in bottom of bowl, about 30 min-
2 lb. red beefsteak tomatoes, utes. Meanwhile, place shallot in a
cored and chopped (6 cups)
small bowl, and drizzle with sherry
1 medium (11-oz.) cucumber, vinegar; let stand 30 minutes.
peeled, seeded, and chopped
(about 11/2 cups) 2. Pour tomato mixture (with
1 medium-size (10-oz.) red bell juices), shallot mixture, and vegeta-
pepper, stemmed, seeded, ble juice into a blender; pulse until
and chopped (about 11/4 cups) finely chopped, about 4 pulses.
2 tsp. fine sea salt, plus more Process until smooth, about 1
to taste minute. Remove center piece from
1 medium (2-oz.) shallot, blender lid; with blender running,
chopped (about 1/2 cup) slowly drizzle in oil, and process
until smooth, about 1 minute. Sea-
2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar, plus
more to taste son with additional salt to taste. (It
should taste bright, bracing, and
1 cup vegetable juice (such as
V8) rich.) Chill, covered, until very cold,
at least 2 hours or up to 2 days.
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3. Make the salsa fresca: Stir
SALSA FRESCA
together cherry tomatoes, shallot,
2 cups multicolored cherry jalapeño, cilantro, vinegar, oil, salt,
tomatoes (from 1 lb. and pepper in a medium bowl until
tomatoes), halved lengthwise well combined. Let salsa fresca
1/4 cup finely chopped shallot stand, uncovered, at room tem-
(from 1 medium shallot) perature up to 1 hour.
1 Tbsp. finely chopped seeded
4. Stir gazpacho to blend, and
fresh jalapeño (from 1
medium jalapeño) adjust seasonings with additional
salt and vinegar to taste. Divide
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro
gazpacho evenly among bowls; top
2 tsp. sherry vinegar with salsa fresca and fresh herbs.
2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil —MARY-FRANCES HECK
1/2 tsp. fine sea salt
MAKE AHEAD Soup and salsa may
1/4 tsp. black pepper be kept chilled in separate airtight
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS containers up to 2 days.

Fresh herbs (such as cilantro WINE Bright Spanish rosado: 2021

or basil leaves) Ameztoi Rubentis Txakolina
AUGUST 2022 91
 Jessica B. Harris,
author of the
seminal cookbook
High on the Hog,
on the porch at her
home in Oak Bluffs
ROS E M A RY
I
S

F
O
R

AN ODE TO MEALS AND MEMORIES FROM A

SUMMER HOME ON MARTHA’S VINEYARD

STORY BY JESSICA B. HARRIS

LOCATION PHOTOGRAPHY BY ELIZABETH CECIL FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY BY GREG DUPREE 93
 clockwise from top:
Jessica Harris (center);
her mother, Rhoda (left);
and a childhood friend
near the ferry on Martha’s
Vineyard in 1958; Jesse
(Harris’ father) and Rhoda
seated at a cocktail party
on a neighbor’s porch; Jes-
se on the ferry in the ear-
ly 1960s; Jessica (at right)
and friends on the porch of
the house in the early ’00s;
Rhoda (at right) and mem-
bers of the Polar Bears, a
group that meets early in
the morning to exercise
on the beach. The vintage
postcards that decorate
Harris’ past Bastille Day
menus also appear in her
book, Vintage Postcards
from the African World.

bottom: Harris places a

sprig of rosemary above a
painting of her parents in
the stairwell.

T
HE GRAY-SHINGLED HOUSE with the pink shutters opposite
the tennis courts in Oak Bluffs has been a part of my life for
so long that I cannot recall what it was like not to journey
to Martha’s Vineyard each summer. I can still remember when my
family purchased it, in 1956; the journeying up-island to retrieve the
key from the realtor and the searching for the hidden fifth bedroom
that was only revealed when the sun shone through a window on a

FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN

back stairway. I can recollect the small living room that existed before
we expanded the house in the times before the Copeland historic
district and its design watchdogs put an end to that sort of thing.
I vividly recall the parties that were held, the friends and relatives
who visited, and my paternal grandmother sitting under the venerable
oak tree that shades the house’s front yard.
The house is the repository of my summer memories. From the
porch, I could watch tennis tournaments or just sit in the pink rock-
ing chairs and read. The small backyard was the place that I proudly
displayed the first fish I ever caught. Inside, the kitchen, with the
old-fashioned cast-iron stove that we never used but that my mother
refused to remove, was the scene for much summer cooking, and the
dining room with the scarred oak table and mismatched chairs the
locus of many a summer entertainment. The house has always been a
place where I’ve felt secure in the warmth of family and community.
Over the years, the house has represented refuge and sanctu-
ary and joy. But, over the years, it has also changed and evolved.

94 AUGUST 2022
 Bacon-Wrapped
Watermelon Rind
Pickles
P. 101

Smoked
Bluefish Spread
P. 101
“The house has always been a
place where I’ve felt secure in
the warmth of family and com-
munity.” — JESS ICA B . H A R R IS
Harris measures out olive
oil for her sesame-honey-
ginger dressing (recipe
p. 101). “A watermelon
theme prevails throughout
the kitchen, even onto the
knobs on the hutch,” she
says. Guests at her home
are always treated to a
Guadeloupean Ti’ Punch
cocktail (recipe p. 101).

Twenty years ago, after my mother’s death,

it became mine, and I was challenged with
transforming what had been a family house
rich in memories into one that was still a
repository of remembrances but not a
mausoleum: a spot that paid homage to
the family joy that had existed and where
new tales could be written and new sto-
ries told. I started, somehow, the very first
summer after my mother’s passing, mov-
ing bags, baggage, and bookshelves out of
my childhood bedroom into what had been Ti’ Punch
P. 101
my parents’ bedroom. Gradually, I began
to make the house my own. My mother’s
garden remains, but I had an arbor built
and planted a wisteria that now shades the
back deck, and I created two raised beds
in which I grow vegetables. I kept my mother’s bright pink shutters, but the herbes de Provence, and lavender and rose-
hues in the rest of the house now veer toward mauves and greens and blues: mary from my garden and cooked over a
colors more of my choosing. Art hangs on the walls; a large work on paper, bed of roasted new potatoes; fresh string
entitled “Soul Sanctuary,” by my friend Kim Dummons lives over the living beans from the farmers market that is my
room sofa, and my James Beard awards are on the dining room wall. Last year, summer joy; and a salad of fresh island
with the help of friends, I transformed the downstairs bedroom into an office lettuces mixed with avocado chunks and
and began converting one of the upstairs ones into a library. My friends joke island blueberries, dressed with a vinai-
that I have eliminated bedrooms so as not to be overwhelmed by houseguests. grette made from sesame oil and a honey-
My taking ownership of the house extended not only to decor and garden- ginger vinegar that I pick up on-island. A
ing, but also to creating my own traditions. My mother and her friends had jazzed-up mint jelly accompanies the meal,
their bridge parties and soirees; I’ve always preferred to host full-on, sit-down and, because I’m not a dessert-maker, my
dinner parties. So I established a tradition of several meals during the summer friends either bring one (I’m especially par-
season if I have guests who don’t mind helping as sous chefs and dishwashers. tial to my friend Karen Finley’s lemon chess
(I’m a stemware, full-silverware, dishes-to-the-max kind of person. There are pie) or we end up with a seriously alcoholic
even knife rests! So cleanup is no mean feat after dinner for 10 as there is no café brûlot in a nod to my love for New Or-
dishwasher here.) leans. (For all of these recipes, see p. 101.)
The most important of those full-on dinner parties by far is the season- At meal’s end, summer is officially opened,
opening Bastille Day one, which allows me to trade the barbecue and grill of and my entertaining season has begun.
the Fourth of July for a sit-down supper with friends. In the early years, the When I close the house down for the
dinner saluted various different spots in the African Atlantic world complete winter every autumn, I clip a branch of
with individual menus illustrated from my postcard collection, but now it rosemary from my herb garden and place
has morphed into a set menu. I occasionally vary the hors d’oeuvres that we it over the painting of my parents that
nibble in the living room while I introduce new guests to the Guadeloupean hangs in the stairwell. Rosemary is for re-
ti’ punch cocktail. Current favorites are a spread of locally smoked bluefish membrance, and I leave the house with the
and a spin on the rumaki of the 1960s I make with watermelon-rind pickles memories of the past, those that I’ve created
and bacon “borrowed” from my friend Ken Smith, in New Orleans. this year, and thoughts of the new ones yet
Then it’s on to the main course of roast leg of lamb, seasoned with garlic, to be made.

AUGUST 2022 97
 Café Brûlot
P. 102

“Because I’m not a dessert-maker, my friends either bring one (I’m especially
partial to my friend Karen Finley’s lemon chess pie) or we end up with a seriously
alcoholic café brûlot in a nod to my love for New Orleans.” —J ESS ICA B . H A R R IS

98 AUGUST 2022
Lemon Chess
Pie
P. 102
 Greens, Avocado, and
Blueberry Salad

100 AUGUST 2022

GREENS, AVOCADO, AND SMOKED BLUEFISH SPREAD 24 (about 1- x 1-inch) pieces pickled
BLUEBERRY SALAD PHOTO P. 95
watermelon rind (from 1 [20-oz.]
jar), drained and patted dry
TOTAL 15 MIN; SERVES 6 TO 8 ACTIVE 10 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 10 MIN
12 bacon slices (not thick-cut) (about
SERVES 6 TO 8
13 oz.), cut in half crosswise
Harris keeps specialty vinegars such as
a honey-ginger white balsamic to bring Smoky, rich, and creamy, this delicious
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a rimmed
instant interest to salad dressings like her spread brings together luscious smoked
sweet and fragrant sesame-honey-ginger baking sheet with aluminum foil. Wrap
bluefish with light and fluffy whipped
dressing. Its mildly piquant kick highlights each pickled watermelon rind piece with
cream cheese, tangy whole-milk yogurt,
the fresh peppery greens and creamy 1 bacon half; secure with a wooden pick.
and a dash of acidic hot sauce and horse-
avocado in this beautifully colorful side Arrange wrapped pieces on prepared bak-
radish. Don’t skip on chilling the dip for at
salad. The blueberry-honey sea salt made ing sheet spaced at least 1/2 inch apart.
least 1 hour; time in the fridge allows the
on Martha’s Vineyard is absolutely worth flavors and textures to meld. 2. Bake in preheated oven until bacon is
sourcing for both its pleasantly fruity and mostly rendered and starting to brown,
tart flavor and its stunning purple hue. 8 oz. plain whipped cream cheese 20 to 25 minutes. Flip each piece, and
While the specialty ingredients add an 6 oz. boneless, skinless smoked continue baking until bacon is browned
elegant touch, the Food & Wine test kitchen bluefish, whitefish, mackerel, or and crisp on both sides, 5 to 10 minutes.
came up with a few simple substitutions to trout, flaked into small pieces Carefully transfer pieces to a platter, let-
make this a weeknight staple (see Note). 1/2 cup plain whole-milk strained ting excess drippings drip off onto baking
(Greek-style) yogurt sheet. Discard drippings. Serve immedi-
SESAME-HONEY-GINGER DRESSING 1 Tbsp. prepared horseradish ately. —JESSICA B. HARRIS
1/4 cup sesame oil (untoasted) 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice (from 1 MAKE AHEAD Watermelon rind pickles
1/4 cup honey-ginger white balsamic lemon), plus more to taste
can be wrapped in bacon a day ahead and
vinegar (such as LeRoux) 1 tsp. hot sauce, plus more to taste baked just before serving. Reheat leftover
1 tsp. herbes de Provence 1/4 tsp. Worcestershire sauce bacon-wrapped pickles at 350°F until
3/4 tsp. blueberry-honey sea salt (such Flaky sea salt, to taste heated through, 5 to 10 minutes.
as Martha’s Vineyard Sea Salt), plus
Black pepper, to taste NOTE Jarred pickled watermelon rind can
more to taste
Lavash or water crackers be purchased online at walnutcreekfoods
SALAD
.com or prissys.com.
1 (about 31/2-oz.) Boston lettuce head, Stir together cream cheese, bluefish,
leaves separated (about 4 cups) yogurt, horseradish, lemon juice, hot TI’ PUNCH
4 cups loosely packed arugula (about sauce, and Worcestershire sauce in a
PHOTO P. 97
3 oz.) medium bowl until well combined. Season
2 cups loosely packed mizuna (about to taste with salt and pepper. Cover tightly TOTAL 5 MIN; SERVES 1
2 oz.) with plastic wrap; chill until flavors meld,
at least 1 hour or up to 2 days. Season with Don’t be fooled by the simplicity of this
1 small red onion (about 6 oz.), thinly
sliced (about 1 cup) additional lemon juice and hot sauce to Guadeloupean cocktail—it packs a ton
taste. Serve with lavash or water crackers. of flavor from vegetal, grassy white rhum
1 medium avocado (about 6 oz.),
chopped into 1/2-inch pieces (about —JESSICA B. HARRIS agricole, which is made from sugarcane
3/4 cup) juice, unlike sweeter white rums made
MAKE AHEAD Dip can be made up to 2
3/4 cup fresh blueberries (about 4 oz.) from molasses or sugarcane byproducts.
days in advance and stored in an airtight Serving this drink at room temperature as
container in refrigerator.
1. Make the sesame-honey-ginger dress- is traditional opens up the aromatic, herbal
ing: Whisk together oil, vinegar, herbes de NOTE Smoked bluefish can be ordered notes. If you prefer, you can serve it chilled
Provence, and salt in a medium bowl until from shelskys.com. for a smoother drink; just be sure to dis-
salt is dissolved. Season to taste with addi- solve the sugar before adding the ice.
tional salt. BACON-WRAPPED
2 lime wedges (from 1 quartered lime)
2. Make the salad: Toss together lettuce, WATERMELON RIND PICKLES
2 Tbsp. (1 oz.) blanc rhum agricole
arugula, mizuna, onion, avocado, and blue- PHOTO P. 95
(such as Rhum J.M or Rhum
berries in a large bowl. ACTIVE 15 MIN; TOTAL 40 MIN Clément), plus more to taste
3. Drizzle salad with 1/3 cup dressing, and SERVES 8 TO 10
1 tsp. unrefined granulated cane
toss to coat. Drizzle with additional dress- sugar, plus more to taste
ing as desired, or serve remaining dressing Gently rendered, crispy bacon comes
on the side. —JESSICA B. HARRIS together with sweet-and-sour pickled
Squeeze 1 lime wedge into an old-
watermelon rind in this salty, tangy, chewy
MAKE AHEAD Dressing can be made up to fashioned glass or a small wide-mouthed
snack. As they bake together in the oven,
2 days in advance. stemmed glass. Add blanc rhum agricole
the bacon takes on the fruity brine, while
and sugar to glass; stir until sugar is dis-
NOTE Blueberry-honey sea salt can be the watermelon rind takes on the savory,
solved, 1 to 2 minutes. Taste and adjust
purchased at mvseasalt.com. Flaky sea smoky aroma of the bacon. Use standard-
rhum and sugar as desired. Garnish with 1
salt may be used as a substitute but will cut bacon for the best results; thick-cut
lime wedge, if desired. Serve at room tem-
not provide the same mild salinity and slices will not cook evenly. Harris recom-
perature or chilled over ice if you prefer.
slight tartness. If you don’t have honey- mends Walnut Creek or Prissy’s jarred
—JESSICA B. HARRIS
ginger white balsamic vinegar, whisk watermelon rind pickles for their firm tex-
together 3 tablespoons white balsamic ture and not too cloyingly sweet taste. Cut NOTE Rhum J.M and Rhum Clément white
vinegar, 2 teaspoons honey, and 1 1/2 larger pickles in half to form 1-inch squares agricole rums are both available online at
teaspoons grated peeled fresh ginger. for even cooking. totalwine.com.

AUGUST 2022 101

 LEG OF LAMB COOKED OVER potatoes under it. Reduce oven tempera- saucepan over medium, stirring occasion-
NEW POTATOES WITH SPICY ture to 350°F. Continue roasting to desired ally, until heated through, about 2 minutes.
MINT-RUM SAUCE degree of doneness or until a thermometer Add cognac mixture to lemon juice mixture
inserted in thickest portion of meat reg- in bowl. Stir in hot coffee, and serve imme-
ACTIVE 30 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 55 MIN
isters 120°F for medium-rare, 1 hour to 1 diately. —JESSICA B. HARRIS
SERVES 6 TO 8
hour and 25 minutes. Remove from oven.
NOTE Remove the cinnamon stick and
Let rest 15 minutes.
Dried lavender and fresh thyme lend floral, cloves before storing leftovers to prevent
woodsy flavor to fresh garlic cloves in a 5. Make the spicy mint-rum sauce: Cook bitterness from overlong steeping.
simple paste created on the cutting board, mint jelly, rum, and jalapeño in a small
which seasons the lamb before cooking saucepan over medium, stirring often, LEMON CHESS PIE
and helps the dried spice crust stick to the until jelly liquefies and sauce is warmed
PHOTO P. 99
meat. The mint sauce will appear very thin through, about 5 minutes.
ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 3 HR 50 MIN
when hot but thickens to a glaze as it cools. 6. Transfer lamb to a cutting board; carve SERVES 8
into long, thin slices. Toss potatoes with
LAMB AND POTATOES pan drippings. Serve lamb alongside pota- Jessica B. Harris’ good friend Karen Finley
6 large garlic cloves, peeled toes and spicy mint-rum sauce. —JESSICA shares her family recipe for buttery, silky,
1 Tbsp. fresh thyme leaves, finely B. HARRIS and lusciously tart lemon chess pie. The
chopped MAKE AHEAD Leftover spicy mint-rum flavor of the filling is similar to a lemon bar,
1 to 11/2 tsp. dried culinary lavender buds, sauce can be stored in an airtight but a touch sweeter and with some pleas-
finely chopped container up to 2 days. Reheat over warm ant texture from floral lemon zest.
1 (4- to 5-lb.) shank-end lamb leg, before serving.
trimmed (see Note) 1 (9-inch) unbaked pie shell (see Note)
WINE Peppery, dark-fruited Sonoma
3 lb. small (about 11/2- to 2-inch round) 2 cups granulated sugar
Zinfandel: 2019 Valravn Sonoma County
Yukon Gold potatoes, halved 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. all-purpose flour
1/4
NOTE The shank-end lamb leg is not a
cup olive oil 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. fine yellow
standard cut; it refers to a lamb leg with
2 Tbsp. plus 1/2 tsp. flaky sea salt, cornmeal
the butt of the leg removed. It cooks
divided 1/2
faster than a larger whole leg and still tsp. fine sea salt
2 Tbsp. mixed peppercorns offers a beautiful bone-in presentation. A 4 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 Tbsp. dried rosemary grocery store butcher counter can 1/2 cup unsalted butter (4 oz.), melted
1 Tbsp. herbes de Provence (preferably prepare this precise cut upon request, or and cooled slightly
Simply Organic, see Note) you can substitute a 3- to 4-pound whole 1/3 cup whole milk
SPICY MINT-RUM SAUCE
leg of lamb or bone-in shoulder. Different
2 Tbsp. grated lemon zest plus 1/4 cup
brands’ herbes de Provence blends will
3/4 cup mint jelly (such as Stonewall fresh lemon juice (from 2 lemons)
have different ratios of herbs and levels of
Kitchen)
coarseness, so we recommend Simply
2 Tbsp. (1 oz.) dark Barbados rum 1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Freeze pie shell
Organic for this recipe.
until hardened, about 15 minutes. Line
1 small (5/8-oz.) jalapeño, seeded and
frozen pie shell with aluminum foil, and fill
finely chopped
CAFÉ BRÛLOT completely with pie weights or dried beans.
PHOTO P. 98 Bake in preheated oven until crust is set
1. Make the lamb and potatoes: Preheat
TOTAL 5 MIN; SERVES 10 and just beginning to brown around edges,
oven to 450°F. Finely chop garlic on a cut-
22 to 26 minutes. Remove from oven. Care-
ting board; sprinkle with thyme and lav-
This New Orleans libation traditionally fully lift foil to remove weights; discard foil.
ender. Using the flat side of a chef’s knife,
comes with special equipment to light it Return pie shell to oven. Bake at 375°F until
smash garlic mixture until a coarse paste
aflame and is served in a silver punch bowl. bottom is set and no longer looks doughy,
forms. Using the tip of a sharp paring knife,
Jessica B. Harris offers a more approach- 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack; let
make about 15 (1/2-inch-wide, 3/4-inch-deep)
able version, with deep citrus and clove cool completely, about 30 minutes.
incisions all over lamb leg. Stuff garlic mix-
ture evenly into holes (about 1/4 teaspoon flavors infusing the coffee, cognac, and 2. Reduce oven temperature to 350°F.
mixture each). Set aside. orange liqueur without an open flame. Using a fork, stir together sugar, flour, corn-
meal, and salt in a medium bowl. Using a
2. Toss together potatoes, oil, and 1/2 tea- 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice (from 1
fork, stir together eggs, butter, milk, and
spoon salt in a large roasting pan; spread in lemon)
lemon zest and juice in a large bowl. Add
an even layer. Roast in preheated oven until 1 Tbsp. fresh orange juice (from 1 sugar mixture to egg mixture; stir until well
potatoes have just started to brown, about orange)
combined. Pour into cooled pie shell.
10 minutes. 1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick
3. Bake pie at 350°F until filling is lightly
3. Meanwhile, combine peppercorns, rose- 4 whole cloves
browned, puffed slightly, and barely jiggles
mary, herbes de Provence, and remaining 3/4 cup (6 oz.) orange liqueur (such in the center, 45 to 55 minutes, tenting
2 tablespoons salt in a spice grinder. Pulse Grand Marnier, Cointreau, or triple
crust edges with foil after 15 minutes to
until coarsely ground, about 8 pulses. Rub sec)
prevent overbrowning, if needed. Transfer
mixture all over lamb. 1/4 cup (2 oz.) cognac pie to a wire rack; let cool completely,
4. Remove potatoes from oven; stir mix- 4 cups brewed strong coffee, hot about 2 hours. —KAREN FINLEY
ture in pan. Place lamb, fat side up, on
MAKE AHEAD Pie can be made and kept
potatoes. Return to oven, and roast at Stir together lemon juice, orange juice,
chilled up to 3 days in advance.
450°F until lamb just begins to brown, cinnamon stick, and cloves in a large
about 15 minutes. Remove from oven. heatproof bowl until combined; set aside. NOTE Check out Food & Wine’s Master Pie
Stir potatoes in pan, lifting lamb to stir Heat orange liqueur and cognac in a small Dough recipe on foodandwine.com.

102 AUGUST 2022

 Leg of Lamb Cooked
Over New Potatoes with
Spicy Mint-Rum Sauce
BACKSTORY

Hands On FINGER FOOD

In her 1921 Book of

Etiquette, Lillian Eichler
“Newest way to enjoy hot corn on the cob with- Watson noted, “Corn
on the cob is without a
out burning your fingers.” —ADVERTISEMENT FOR doubt one of the most
THE COB NOB CORN HOLDER, 1999 difficult foods to eat
gracefully.” She allowed
that it was acceptable
ALTHOUGH HUMANS HAVE FARED JUST FINE using our to use the fingers in
fingers to eat hot, buttery corn on the cob, history has seen the corn-eating
a dizzying number of inventions that assist in the corn- endeavor (“holding it
eating experience. In 1897, Mary Donnelly obtained one of lightly at each end”),
but she ultimately
the earliest patents for a corn-holding accessory, the “Corn- urged readers to serve
Fork,” which had a pacifier-shaped handle and three sharp corn with a knife so
prongs. Carl Bomeisler patented a corn holder in 1909 that guests could shave
looked like a mini sword, with a blade to wedge into the corn the kernels off the cob:
“This is by far the most
and a handle engraved with kernels. In the 1950s, Bomeisler’s satisfactory method.”
design morphed into the corn holders that can still be seen
at barbecues today—the yellow plastic ones that look like
mini corncobs, with two pointy prongs. In 1977, Larry
Riedinger and George Spector decided that the world
needed an even better way to eat corn on the cob.
The corn holders they’d come across required
too much force to insert or fell out too easily,
so in 1979, the duo patented the cornscrew.
The cornscrew has a spiral just like a cork-
screw, which winds into a corncob, pro-
viding maximum support with minimal
effort. From there, corn holders continued
to pick up steam. One company, Michigan-
based Lilly Industries, created the Cob Nob,
which could be screwed into either side of a
corncob before cooking, cooling just seconds
after being removed from the microwave or
oven; you never had to touch the hot corn at
all. The upside to this bizarre, varied history
of corncob holders? There’s a corn-ucopia of
corny options to choose from. —NINA FRIEND

BY THE NUMBERS

1877 800
Year the first U.S. Average number of
patent for a corncob kernels on an ear
holder was filed, by of corn
Franklin M. Dixon
FOOD STYLING: GREG LUNA; PROP STYLING: STEPHANIE HUNTER

36.25
12-25
Number of mini

INCHES kernels per row in

the standard two-
Size of the world’s pronged yellow
largest corncob ever plastic corncob
grown, by Bernard holder
Lavery in the U.K.
in 1994

16
Average number of
rows on an ear of corn

104 AUGUST 2022 photography by KELSEY HANSEN

Do Good
Chicken.
Who knew
saving our
planet
would be so
delicious?
Do Good. Pick the carbon-reduced real chicken on
a mission to fight food waste and combat climate
change from your kitchen. Find us in the poultry aisle
and at DoGoodChicken.com.

©2022 Do Good Foods LLC. All Rights Reserved. DoGoodChicken.com and the Do Good Circle logo are trademarks of KDC Agribusiness LLC.
 AbsolutelyScottsdale.com

the desert is